Reddit mentions: The best automotive fuel injection parts

I just got an 08 WK Limited 5.7 with 51k on it. Here is what I did immediately, I have the previous service records and it seems as though some of the work may have been done, it wasn't 100% clear and I just wanted to know a baseline.

Replace PCV Valve (cheap part, just unscrews by hand to replace, super easy), Clean Throttle Body (remove air box, remove throttle body, clean with ONLY isopropol alcohol and a clean rag) and install Billet Technology (or equivalent) Catch Can. This is all done because the PCV system on the Hemi basically sucks, you'll see when you remove the throttle body that it will most likely be gunked up, the PCV lets too much oil through. This is cured with the catch can. Immediately helps throttle response and minor hep to fuel economy.

Replace MAP Sensor. Honestly not really sure why, all the forums say do it, it's a $20 part and basically pop-out, pop-in replacement. A little tricky to get your hand in behind the manifold the get it, takes some maneuvering but be patient, you'll get it. Said to have positive effect on fuel economy.

Replace EGR Valve. This can be tricky as the alternator blocks one of the bolts. Many people will tell you to cut the bolt and install a new shorter one. This seems like a lot of extra work to me. I just removed the belt (easy to do) and unbolted the alternator (2 bolts). This took me all of about 6 minutes to do, then the new EGR (and new gaskets) just bolt back on.

While I had that off I replaced the serpentine belt. Cheap enough, and why the hell not, now I know exactly ow old it is. While you're in there check all your pulleys, tensioner, etc. Make sure they move smoothly and quietly. I forgot this step and I DID have a squeak I wanted to address. I still have said squeak. Next nice day I'm gonna get back in there and check.

Spark plugs. I have an 08, so it wasn't hard. Unbolt each coil, gently crack the plugs with a ratchet (I have a great plug ratchet set I'll link below, get it, it will help with all your plug changes on any deep well hemi). Change your plugs. I got the Champion 57- Copper core generally the recommended plug), dab of dielectric on the end (no anti-size, I don't like it, I change plugs every 30k so I shouldn't need it, some say anti seize leads to accidental over-torque, personal preference I guess). Gap plugs to .44 and torque to 13ft.lbs.

Next I did K&N drop in air filter, swapped my air resonator for a SRT Inlet tube (take off, bought online for $20 shipped, search the STR forums for the for sale items) and extended the drain hole for more air inlet. Sounds great, that throaty cold air intake everyone loves without the risk of slurping up some water and hydro locking. Be sure to perform regular main on the filter, clean and il it as required by the spec.

Oil change. Mobil 1 Synthetic, 5w-20 & Mopar filter. Because oil change....

I also installed the fumoto quick valve to change my oil easier. It scares some people, I looked it over and feel confident that it will not open accidentally, it has a decent spring type safety.

I plan to soon flush and fill tranny, radiator, transfer case & differentials. After that is all done I may swap out a few more sensors. IAT, O2, Crank Position, etc. With all that complete I will feel as confident as I possibly can in the maintenance of my Hemi.

I may point out that i'm not really mechanically inclined. I have just been doing a lot of research on forums (jeepgarage, cherokeesrt8, jeepsunlimited, etc) I founds lots of good write ups, reviews and information. Take you time, do your research and everything will be there.

Generally my truck runs smoother, quieter, more powerful and a little better MPG. It's only been about 100 miles since I did all this, but for the overall $$ I spend (under $400) it was totally worth it. At a dealer my guess is this is like 1500 worth of work. Below are some links. Have fun.



Tune up kit
http://www.amazon.com/GRAND-CHEROKEE-COMMANDER-5-7L-HEMI/dp/B003ZW9EUM

Spark Plug Tool
http://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-3-Piece-Magnetic-Universal/dp/B000NIEECO

Fumoto Oil valve
http://www.fumotousa.com/parts.php?partname=F106N&partnumber=33

Spark Plug Change Tutorial
http://www.jeepgarage.org/f156/diy-hemi-5-7l-spark-plug-change-50750.html

EGR (I didnt follow exaclt, i just removed alternator, this shows all steps including cutting botl. You choose your own adventure here...)
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?516169-DIY-how-to-install-a-new-EGR-w-pics&highlight=egr%20valve

PCV Valve
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/changing-pcv-valve-1336134/

Throttle body cleaning
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/throttle-body-cleaning-tips-1342502/index2.html

MAP Sensor (start at post #8 in this thread, thats where the good info starts, but feel free to read from beginning if you want)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/5-7l-map-sensor-location-1340713/

And for ALL the info on your WK, use this site as your bible.
http://wkjeeps.com/

Hope this helps a bit!!!

This explains it way better than I could:
MPFI Conversion

Basically, the original system is central sequential port injection (CSFI), and prone to fouling, sticking, and leaking at the poppets from carbon buildup. GM revised the design in '02, and the new, much-improved multi-port fuel injection (MPFI) unit is 100% backwards compatible. You can get them from most any auto parts supplier, I bought mine on Amazon. It's not cheap, (~$300), but it works much better than the old design and is literally a drop-in replacement.

The work is pretty easy if you're comfortable under the hood, and iirc, the new unit comes with instructions for doing the conversion. Remember to pick up a intake gasket set since you'll be pulling the upper half of the intake out.

This is the new unit
ACDelco 217-3028 Fuel Injector on Amazon.

Cheaper, non-OEM part on Amazon.

Thanks, woke up this morning and she was already eating! I'm looking after her closely and the vet will re-examine her on Tuesday. I'm annoyed that I only noticed (she was eating normally) because her nose had bled and she'd scratched it up (it's still scarred and I have to clean it as well as giving her 4 medicines each time - hoping she won't hate me for it!).

I have added 3 links (UK based, but showing similar wheels). I bought two a while back. I asked the office admin to source me a couple of flying saucer wheels in metal, so I need to find out from the office PC where they were sold!

Mine are labelled Wagner and came from Germany by airmail but they're the coated finish type with gentle ribs on the face. Only issue I've had is that both have needed new centre bearing attachments. The bearings themselves are pretty sound, but the screws and nuts that hold them in tend to tighten and seize (urine-doesn't help them!) so I've drilled one out and modified both. Having said that they are not too pricey and degus love them. Fur's been on hers almost constantly since she got back.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Running-Plate-Large-made-steel/dp/B0064JD6P2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502000030&sr=8-2&keywords=degu+wheel+flying+saucer

https://www.amazon.com/Treadmill-Wheel-14-green-Chinchillas/dp/B0113HK4X6

http://www.metalchinchillawheels.com/

If I find the info on the manufacturers I'll post/send a link.

EDIT: I found the invoice. Googling the manufacturer brings up the running plate link I put first. The label's changed (just to confuse me).

https://www.parrotshop.de/nager/ausstattung-zubehoer/laufraeder/9036/laufteller-large-aus-stahl-fuer-chinchillas-und-degus

https://www.parrotshop.de/nager/ausstattung-zubehoer/laufraeder/8668/laufteller-x-large-aus-stahl-fuer-chinchillas-und-degus

The links above are to Wagner's website. It's in German (they're near Köln) and mainly bird bits, but there is a large variety of nager (rodent) stuff. It's priced in Euros. Mine was £34.90 in January this year with a £9.90 charge for post to the UK. From that and the time difference I'd guess it's the large not extra large, and probably the same one as currently on amazon. It looks to be about the diameter of a standard 300mm/12" ruler. The Wagner site shows 28cm or 36cm so there's a decent choice there.

Sorry for the long, long reply, trying to cover it all!

Nice! Looks great with that bike brake! I got the Teraflex one works great on a steep trail and road trips to give the leg a break with no cruise control!

For anyone reading this later, I changed the throttle body with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071L9KH14 and the problem seems to be fixed so far. The code changed to stored instead of pending so I cleared it.

An added benefit is that the pedal is a lot more responsive now. It used to not give you any gas until you pushed the pedal past a certain point and then it gave a bunch, now as soon as you start pressing the pedal it starts giving a little gas. very pleased.

Just replace the FPS by yourself. I did it and it was easy, following the excellent writeup in this thread: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?154495-How-to-Change-your-Fuel-Pressure-Sensor-on-the-T5-engine

You can buy the part from amazon, $56 - http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-FPS18-Pressure/dp/B005F9IZTO

As for Volvo not recalling this identical part on every car? Welcome to Volvo. They don't recall shit. Millions of Volvos have clogged/leaking sunroof drains, stemming from poor design. Volvo straight up refuses to address the issue and has fought a class-action lawsuit tooth and nail.

Most regulators that are worth anything do not have gauges on them out of the box. You have to buy a gauge and replace the brass plug with it. Super easy and cheap.

This is the regulator I bought... Notice the brass plug where the gauge is inserted.
https://www.amazon.com/Marshall-Excelsior-Megr-6120-30-Regulator-Adjustable/dp/B00EP1R65M/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1494961781&sr=8-17&keywords=propane+regulator

To answer you OP, propane hoses are sold with different connectors on them... I bought the hose with the proper fittings, but if you must, you can buy an adapter. Make sure everything is taped up with YELLOW thread tape.

if there the plastic one they break really easy when you try to remove
them its common place. most mechanics aren't going to stop and try and repair them they just stick the plug back on the injector and call it good.
You can buy replacement ones though
https://www.amazon.com/MOTOALL-Injector-Connector-Harness-Pigtail/dp/B07H76ZZSF/ref=sr_1_cc_9?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1541681612&vehicle=1999-54-696------------1-0&sr=1-9-catcorr&ymm=1999%3Aford%3Aranger&keywords=fuel+injector+electrical+connector

What is the gray box over in the passenger side of the engine bay with the loom running in it? Nice budget build I like it! Injector idea that I'm running -2013-2014 Shelby Mustang GT500 55lb lb. Pound Fuel Delivery System Injector EV14 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQJXMTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8JFIyb5RNVJDF
-And you'll need these http://injector-rehab.com/shop/EV14-11mm-Adaptor-Hat.html
-And these Flow Force Fuel Rail Spacer for Mazda Miata https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019L77BY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FOFIybSXNSZBE
-and something like this GooDeal 8pcs EV6 EV14 USCAR Fuel Injector Connector Pigtail Wire for Dodge LS2 LS3 GM Ford https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YGAJZYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EPFIybTZY8Q7J

>Cabin filter: isn't 7,500 miles early? Typically that's not supposed to be changed until 15,000, yeah? Although you did mention the dealer was following the Severe schedule, so maybe that fits.

I certainly think 7,500 miles is early. My own schedule has generally been to change it annually. If it actually was dirty enough to change, it's from sitting on the lot at the dealership for months before my purchase and should have been something that was changed prior to me having the keys.

>Fuel induction service: do you have a GDI engine? That sounds like something you give a turbo, and again, not until at least 15,000.

That's the best part! I have the MPi 2.0 L.

>What is this "fuel kit" you speak of? A bottle of Techron or something?

It's the product(s) for the induction service, no clue what type, but it's the kit where you pour a bottle in the fuel tank, and use a spray hose for the can while running the engine. Something like this, probably. I can't for the life of me remember what's on the shelf that we used for our fuel system services when I was a tech. Still, maybe should cost $20-$30 for the 2/3 different products.

>Shop supplies: rags, a bottle of GoJo for the sink? Coffee? Dafuq is this? Some definite double-dipping goin' on here that needs an explanation.

Right? If they used a ton of rags, gloves, etc., that's on the staff not the customers.

>All the "baby's first service visits" I've ever had with any new car have only been oil changes unless something's wrong. A reputable dealer would've stopped right there. I hope you get a survey about this and you give them some 0s along with the explanation of how they screwed you. Oh, and better luck with the dealer you pick for your next service.

That's what's so bizarre to me. It's the very first time I've brought the car in for service, so I was under the assumption that the oil change and tire rotation was all that was being done, since that's what was included in the service agreement at the time I bought the car, and I had no reason to think otherwise. There was never a price discussed, quote given, or anything to indicate some sort of payment until I was there to pick the car up and they said I owed them ~$300 (reduced to $250 once they entered the maintenance plan).

The reason I chose to go to them for the service is because they're 5 minutes from my work, so I didn't have to waste half the day getting the service done. I could drop it off, they'd give me a ride to and from work, and I'd just have to grab the keys and a copy of the services done. No cost and no hassle. So much for that...

This one is a very cheap M-Wave one, $10 on Amazon. But so far it works great.

I use this one paired with this gauge and this connector, and love it.

I picked up mine from a RC hobby store, and it's branded for RC stuff:

T. A. Emerald Performance Plus 4, TAE4200 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMQGE24

I don't really have a preference for this brand. I'd just get something like this, since they are all pretty similar:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI

Are you talking about the CARB spouts? They are not attached, you can just discard them. I use non-CARB nozzles, as I described in my review on the product page I linked above. Here is the link to the non-CARB spout:

https://www.amazon.com/NEW-NATO-34-Jerry-34-Fuel-Can-Pour-Spout-Nozzle/dp/B009HJMY8Q/

As I also describe in the review, I use some additional plastic tubing to make the non-CARB spout more usable when filling a car.

Actually it looks like CampingMaxx is selling the Wavian cans WITHOUT the useless CARB spout:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFBU1WB/

So you could save some money there by not getting the CARB nozzle in the first place, instead just buying the non-CARB one separately.

fuel pump testing kit, if you have a god tier local shop they may let you borrow a kit, alternatively get one for 30ish USD

I personally haven't done it before but this was the vid i watched on it

would help confirm if it's FP related or injector related

its been a few years but luckily i saved most of the build in a text file

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-2429

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1414

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1423

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08750vs

http://www.amazon.com/1958-86-Chevy-Small-Valve-Covers/dp/B0032CXGX6

http://www.amazon.com/Holley-12-803BP-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator/dp/B000CMDV84

http://www.amazon.com/Edelbrock-2701-Performer-Intake-Manifold/dp/B00063046Q

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-9810-Chrome-Breather/dp/B000BWCGA4

x3 http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-Chrome-Fuel-Fitting/dp/B00062ZDAE/ref=pd_sim_auto_10

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Color-Analog-Ratio-Monitor/dp/B008P6DOIG

http://www.amazon.com/Thermoid-24088-Fuel-Line-Hose/dp/B000KKHNZU

http://www.amazon.com/Bando-6PK2170-Quality-Serpentine-Belt/dp/B000CB0KJS

http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-20805-Gauge-Single/dp/B000CMH9XW

http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/detail.aspx?Item=6500-R

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-70239/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k1106/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-10105117/overview/make/chevrolet

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-94000

the shorter serpentine belt was needed after i removed the smog pump and not shown is the dart iron eagle heads i got on craigslist for a good deal, not everything in the build is there and some links might be bad though

as far as HP/Torque its in the 270-330HP range judging from racing against other cars in that power range

Sure! I was later informed there are connectors available via amazon here that you can wire to your accessories that will plug directly into the stock wiring harness power points!

tightening your headset wont fix your "problem", its a function of the geometry of the fork and frame. tightening the headset will just cause the bearing & races to wear faster.

a steering stabilizer or this will help you out

I grabbed a slightly different one from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F9IZTO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If one were to rinse the salt out with rc car electric motor spray and they seem smooth, one could run them. I use a very light ball bearing oil with a needle applicator. I would put a very tiny drop on each of the bearings and wipe away any excess.

edit: I changed the links to amazon because reasons