Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement sway bars & parts

I have had mine for 14 years, put over 200k miles on it.. It's a great car.. I also have a 5spd... I found these mods pretty solid choices.
Intake
http://www.knfilters.com/cold_air_intake/lexus_is300.aspx
cams
http://www.briancrower.com/makes/toyota/2jzge.shtml BC0311(264)
Header
http://www.dezod.com/dezod-motorsports/dezod-motorsports-green-headers/dzm002/i-2119510.aspx
Sways
https://www.amazon.com/Hotchkis-22410-Sport-Lexus-IS300/dp/B0050UY8VW
Exhaust
Too many choices
HKS Dragger II is a great sounding
Apexi N1 Also strong
http://www.dezod.com/apexi-integration/apexi-exhaust-n1-series/162kt05/i-35731.aspx
http://www.dezod.com/hks/hks-dragger-ii-exhaust/3302ex077/i-38012.aspx
A little more quite if your going headers
http://www.dezod.com/tanabe/tanabe-medalian-exhaust-medalion-touring/t70038/i-129483.aspx

Suspension
Koni Yellows paired with Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Or coilovers if your feeling fancy...

Clutch
OEM Mark 4 Supra NA Clutch kit + OEM MK4 Supra Flywheel (requires some machining) http://my.is/forums/f88/n-supra-flywheel-clutch-swap-w-part-numbers-pics-409335/
It's a nice choice lighter but not so light makes driving a pain. Iv left mine stock... No real slippage issues

http://shopfigs.com/v3/CD3V2

helps clutch feel more direct.

heat shield
http://shopfigs.com/v3/header-hs300V2

Figs makes a bunch of great things, caliper adapters kits.. I recommend this.. I have replaced my stock calipers maybe 2 times since ive owned the car..


Its a fun car, its not really that fast these days, but feels nimble easy to drive fun to toss around and a great deal cost wise.

Turbos... Well thats a longer post.. thats really covered on plenty of forums.. my.is is a good one to start with..

For some visual evidence of what I'm talking about, here's my car on 195/55r15 tires vs 170/70r13 tires (the 195s are .8" larger diameter)

https://i.imgur.com/T9vrgHn.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Qhyzvrv.jpg

despite the car actually being lower to the ground with the smaller tires, the extra space in the wheel wells can give the impression of the car sitting higher.

As far as basic mods:

https://www.amazon.com/ST-Suspension-51120-Anti-Sway-Accord/dp/B000AUMOJ0

That'll help you get rid of most of the factory understeer.

For suspension, the standard choice is Koni sport shocks with Ground Control coilover sleeves. They'll run you $900 + assembly.

If you aren't able/willing to play around with spring compressors, I would save up a bit more and get a pre-assembled coilover like the BC Racing type BR coilover for $1000. They'll save you the cost of having a shop assemble the shocks for you, meaning you'll likely spend less in total.

You'll likely want 16 or 17" wheels for a better selection of tires.

205/55r16 and 215/45r17 are good tire sizes in terms of having a ton of great tires to choose from. They're the same size or 10mm wider than stock tires on a 97 V6 accord, and approximately the same diameter, so you shouldn't run into trouble with scrubbing or steering range.

Best inexpensive quality wheel with the correct lug pattern for a 97 Accord that I would find is the Enkei J10. Might have better luck searching for other people selling used 16" or 17" wheels for accords, buying new wheels and tires is always pretty pricey.

The other option is to look into converting your Accord to 5x114.3 lugs, because then you can get lightweight, performance-focused wheels that nobody really seems to make for your Accord's 4x114.3 lugs.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/5-lug-conversion-96-cd7-2852976/

No problem bud. I always have time for another Subaru driver. We're a family after all.

Ok, so here's the rundown.

Cobb Tuning Accessport: This is the ECU management tool for your car. With this you can offload telemetry data from the engine computer, and also load on "maps" which adjust the ECU behavior. The "Off the Shelf" or "OTS" maps come in a couple flavors, but you're looking at probably only using the first two. Those are Stage 1 and Stage 2.

Stage 1 is for a car with light, or no power adders, and comes in different versions for what octane fuel you're using. You would be flashing stage 1 until you put a downpipe in your car. Stage 2 is for after you add a downpipe, and increases boost pressure to match your now freer flowing system. You must flash Stage 2 when you add a downpipe. If you don't your boost pressures will get all weird, and things will start to melt/die.

ECU tuning is super important for the WRX, and I would highly recommend buying one of these first. The new (very modern) V3 Accessport is around $650, but you can find older V2 models (which will tune your ECU just as well) for around $300-350. Check out the For Sale forums at NASIOC.

Eibach 7714.320 Sway Kit: This is the sway bar kit I got. I'm totally happy with it so far, despite the fact that it's basically the budget option for this car. Take note of the fact that I have a sedan, while you have a wagon. I have no idea if these will fit the wagon. But as for Eibach sways, I'll recommend them. This kit is $400 with end-links included (the part that connects the bar to the rest of the suspension).

Grimmspeed Pulley: This guy is $110 or so, and the least important of the three. But it's also easy to install, and improves engine response. It's the least noticeable mod that I've done, and frankly, though I like what the change did, I've also been driving this car forever. You might not even notice it.


If you have any more questions, fire away. I've been doing a ton of research over the years. Especially lately, as now I'm finally doing work to my car.

I have a 2015 LE as well! Got into modding last year. I started with cosmetic modifications and slowly into performance on a budget.

Cosmetic:
- Rubber Front Lip and Sideskirts $12 each side
- Window Visors $42
- Headlight Eyelids $20
- Rear Window Spoiler : $40
- Trunk Spoiler Rubber$15

Electrical:
- LED Foglights $32
- LED Strip Sequential Turn Signals $18
- LED Turn signal switchbacks, requires a resistor and tapping into turn signal wires
- LED Interior Bulbs $6


Performance:
- TRD Exhaust $400 used. Made my car a joy to drive! Other great cheaper options are Borla $350, and J2 $250. I got the TRD for the balanced deep tones and didnt want to be pulled over for 3rd party exhaust ( I live in Cali).
Super budget ebay exhaust is available too! $85 : Sounds decent, join the 11th gen corolla group on facebook to see and hear videos
- Spectre Short Ram Intake $150: Great sound from engine and increased torque
- Megan Racing Rearsway bar $110: If you like hugging corners while turning this does wonders for reducing bodyroll. I have way more confidence on tight turns!

If the the idea of a lift is already on your radar (and within the budget) I would go ahead and do it while you have everything taken apart.

You have a couple options depending on how much lift you're going for. In my opinion, ADF (www.andersondesign-fab.com) lifts are really really great for the price. The customer service is also second to none. When I installed mine, I emailed them with a question and Patrick (the owner) responded in LESS THAN A MINUTE haha. FYI, They just moved to a new shop so they're a bit backed up rn.

Or you could go with lift springs. Both RalliTek and Primitive Racing sell them separately or in their fully assembled kits. RalliTek also makes their own springs as another option. Also, note that the Standard Height versions of Kings will actually provide a small amount of lift, too.

You could also combine ADF lift spacers AND lift springs. With our cars, I've heard not to go over 2" total due to extra stress on the CV joints. Many people have gotten away with it though.

One thing to keep in mind is that the higher up you go, the more need you'll have for trailing-arm spacers. They keep your back wheels centered in the wheel well. ADF sells them in their kits. You may also need to ditch your rear sway bar altogether or get longer rear end links (Kartboy STI endlinks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0067QSFQW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_XoMRDbK0GP82A are great for lifted Foresters!).

It know it may seem a little daunting, but in the long run, I'm really glad I lifted mine. Good luck!

Unless you hear bad things about Mevotech I'd say go for it. However, I have some good news, it looks like there's other aftermarket options if that one doesn't pan out:

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K750150-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B003YMJJR6

https://www.amazon.com/BECKARNLEY-101-7903-Stabilizer-Link-Kit/dp/B01DLEIB66

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-45G20728-Professional-Suspension-Stabilizer/dp/B0049C7Q3O

https://www.amazon.com/ProSteer-Sway-Bar-Link-SL822/dp/B00U1L8KSW

I can't speak to how good any of those options are, but Moog is usually a pretty safe bet. That last one looks like it's the same Mevotech option.

I've got a 2005 revup 6mt sedan. It's had the engine replaced through the dealership because of oil consumption (previous owner). 40k on the new motor 90k on the chassis. Good car, burns around a quart of oil after 4k miles of hard driving. My new drive for work is up and down a windy highway. I really think a short shifter and a set of sway bars would help make the drive more fun. I have all-season Michelin primacy mx4's 235s 18 rays. Any other recommendations would be awesome.

Some sway bars I'm considering http://www.amazon.com/Hotchkis-22413-Sport-Sway-Nissan/dp/B004SRYKWU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_1&smid=A26YKA1AMO7VO

Recently ordered http://www.amazon.com/ModifyStreet%C2%AE-Ball-Shaped-Weighted-Shift/dp/B015GDJONE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

and http://autodynamic.com/performance/short-shifters/revo-technica-short-shifter-assembly-nissan-350z-infiniti-g35-2-4-dr.html

Reading on the revo technica it's a good cheap shifter with a highly reduced throw range. The shift knob is cheap but weighted, I might have to return it a times until i find a nice one (reviews say they come scratched)

Thanks! Amazingly fast reply man! Okay, so something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mevotech-MK80879-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B002E3PT52/ref=pd_aw_sbs_263_1/141-2664584-9781229?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002E3PT52&pd_rd_r=0f267c5f-b213-4d6b-bdaf-11c997c51464&pd_rd_w=Abd4N&pd_rd_wg=AIr1i&pf_rd_p=53e036f8-8d3b-407e-beae-88d349e4fc13&pf_rd_r=TYAKK795RTX17TWS4YZT&psc=1&refRID=TYAKK795RTX17TWS4YZT

Also the other side looks perfect, like it is much newer than this one (no cracks on the boots, etc), should I replace it anyway?

Theoretically they should be wearing the same on both sides. If cash is an issue then only do one side. But the other side usually fails after a few months when you do this.

Your boot deteriorated which means you might have uneven tire wear on that side. In any case after you replace them you should consider rotating your tires and get an alignment.

I don't know what year your xD is. but I prefer greasable Moog rods.
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80879-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B001CA6L6E

More options here
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/scion,2012,xd,1.8l+l4,1503722,suspension,stabilizer+bar+link,7580

Ebay is also a good source to save money

I just put on the Teraflex 1.5" leveling kit. It'd be perfect for what you're wanting.

https://www.amazon.com/Teraflex-1155200-FRONT-LEVELING-SWAYBAR/dp/B007CISU6Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550174024&sr=8-2&keywords=teraflex+leveling+kit+jeep+jk

If you didn't put on new wheels with the 33s you may consider that as well to increase the backspacing. wheel spacers would also work

Yes they do look like one piece. THis the one you are looking at?:
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Solutions-927-100-Replacement-Sway/dp/B0026M9DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506814722&sr=8-1&keywords=2002+buick+century+sway+bar

For clarification this is the crack I think Sophia dad was speaking about: https://i.imgur.com/RBi3YIW.jpg?1
Crack between the yellow arrows

Interesting, the price has gone up to what ExtremeTerrain was selling it for:

Teraflex 1155200 JK 2IN FRONT 1IN... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007CISU6Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

ahh thats what Ive heard too. I was also looking at skyjacker (turns out there overpriced chinese junk just like the rest of their products), terraflex and the ORO swayLOC.


http://www.offroadonly.com/catalog.130318/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=290


$780!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Your looking to spend just as much with this builder kit:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SWAY.html


I seriously miscalculated this project and that is just not going to work. Was also reading about how the first time out with the $$$ ORO unit a guy could not reengage the lever due to mud a debris. Just sounds too complicated even if I wanted to spend 3/4s of a winch on it! This things must be geared towards desert racers where these are an absolute necessity.

I think what I am going to do is buy an ADDCO sway bar $170:


http://www.amazon.com/Addco-516-Sway-Bar-Kit/dp/B000CF9EIM

Note I normally support 4x4 shops on parts like this, but man everyone else has it listed for $40 more!

• end links $26
  http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Jeep-TJ-LJ-XJ-Sway-Bar-Relocation-Bracket-Weld-On-p-21291.html
  
  
  and just spring for some JKS links.

A lot of people tow similar setups with similar type vehicles. I have 2 suggestions: 1) Try to make sure there is not too much weight behind the axle. 2) consider installing a sway bar. They are super cheap and fairly easy to install. (https://www.amazon.com/Pro-83660-Value-Friction-Control/dp/B0016KJ5MC/ - this one is marketed under a lot of brands, but under "Pro-Series," it is cheapest"

Did you buy Forester specific swaybars (I assume rear we're talking about)? If you did that's the issue. You will need the WRX/STI rear Whiteline swaybar and WRX/STI mounts. Something like these: Whiteline BSR36Z Heavy Duty Sway Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RN9UQ8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. Whiteline KBR21-22 Rear Heavy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070I9UF6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. For the mounts, use PB blaster or something of the like to loosen the bolts to the frame, let it soak 1-2 days. Trust me on that, bolt snapped for me and it was a serious chore to get it out. You could use the stock WRX or STI swaybar bracket mounts but the Forester ones are too tall when the car is lowered and the Forester specific swaybar doesn't fit with that change from stock height geometry.

EDIT: Found one of the source write ups about this very issue. I went with the beefier Whiteline mounts: https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f70/whiteline-bracket-kit-hitting-control-arm-tab-162857/

Anti-swaybar endlink

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Without rust, it'd look like this https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K750257-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B00498ZQP8

Like this https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K750049-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B002M2MHHI

I tow a 30 footer with slide. Weight comes out around 8700 lbs. I installed one of these from Reese, and it made a huge difference in windy driving conditions.

ACDelco 46G20513A Advantage Front Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006N96DLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_li58AbFDQ0GBG

I've never experienced a sway problem (RV bought new last August) and it's only through more reading that I added one for this trip. I didn't notice any difference on this trip with sway control versus previous without but maybe it's one of those where you don't need it until you do? I have always had a WDH fitted.

I went with a cheap one off Amazon

Consider just adding a sway bar with no WDH.

https://smile.amazon.com/CURT-45820-Sway-Ball-Mount/dp/B003AT6EYO/

https://smile.amazon.com/Pro-83660-Value-Friction-Control/dp/B0016KJ5MC/