Reddit mentions: The best bike brakes

> rotor size doesn't matter for what pads work. just that they fit in the caliper, you probably know that but the post is worded so I'm not sure.
>
> those should work, but they are also the same as a bunch of shimano pads (BO1s, iirc) and i bet you could find those locally. Given your described use, probably not a huge jump in longevity, but can't hurt if you have the budget.

Yeah, I didn't look up the P/N's. I didn't know if the 160/160 and 180/160 came with a different caliper or pad fit from that. Thanks.

I think I will just spend the extra few bucks for the lifespan, even if it's marginal.

Well, the bike is under a warranty I believe and they have said in the past they'd be happy to help where they could. But, the bike is a stock 29er Hardtail that I've converted into an E-Bike w/ a BBSHD. They've seen the final build and were cool about saying what they did - but I'd feel like a jerk to have them honor anything in the OEM (cheap) drivetrain or braking systems. I fully expected to destroy something in one of the two over time. They've actually held up pretty well over almost 2 years now.


I'll look into the Deore set to compare, so far I've seen this Tektro M285 for ~$30 as a sealed kit. Or a bleeding kit for ~$15.

I haven't seen other components of the kit (just the caliper) anywhere. Maybe that's just how lower-end stuff is?

Kit:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N57GMO2/

Bleeders:

https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-Disc-Brake-Bleed-Kit/dp/B00S8SZB3W

I've not looked into whether there are other DIY options for bleeding, I'm sure there are. It seems that I'm going to likely have to replace the caliper and getting the full kit just in case is best? I could always keep the current "good" stuff on the bike as spares I guess...

Thanks again!

If you stick with the original brakes I also recommend replacing the straddle cable and carrier with something like this.These have less flex, a wider profile for more even cable pull, and are easier to center than the originals.

You might already know this. but I spent way too long researching and learning how to set up the older wide profile cantis: Essentially, the line from the canti stud to the straddle cable attachment should make a 90deg angle with the straddle cable when activated. This gives the brake arm its longest effective leverage for best mechanical advantage. Additionally, you want to set up the brake pads so that they hit the rim as perpendicular as possible. On smooth-post canti pads it’s also usually best to set them up as close to the brake arm as possible. If you think of the brake arm and pad as a lever pivoting on the canti stud, this makes the brake pad side of the lever short as possible and the brake arm as long as possible, maximizing mechanical advantage. With these particular cantis the arms are short enough that you want to maximize their mechanical advantage. (Newer cantis are generally longer and you can overdo it!)Here’s the long detailed version if you’re interested.

What is it? A pencil condom? Well, glad you asked. ;-) Here's a PHOTO.

These are bicycle cable boots or sleeves, that you typically see used for brake cables. In my far flung long term quest for the "ultimate" pencil tip protector, I'd just about given up and figured it would just be the lucky happenstance of finding a cheap ballpoint cap that happens to fit a specific pencil. Some BiC pen caps are ideal for some pencils, but don't fit on a great many others.

This set of brake cable boots was really cheap, just about $1 for a pack of 10, shipped from China. I do not recommend buying the cheapest ones. After the 2nd day, they still stink badly. But for $1, this was worth it to experiment with what appears to be a standard sized brake cable boot/cover.

I cut up a few to fit different sized pencil tip diameters. In some cases I use the small tapered end, and in other cases it works just fine using a lower segment. But really the best thing about these is that the pliable rubber provides ample leeway to fit a vast variety of writing instruments. As for a tip that's more vulnerable like a rOtring 600 (because of the heavy metal body), I would still recommend using a stiff plastic BiC cap!

Amazon has some higher quality ones for a bit more (under $3 for a pack of 10, LINK, just over $6 for a higher quality product by Jagwire [LINK]).

EDIT: Just to add, I posted this to share exploring ideas about innovative ways to protect pencil tips. This was an experiment that I think proved successful. I wouldn't recommend buying the cheapest ones available, if anything just to avoid dealing with that artificial smell up front that might take days to dissipate, if ever. The second one I linked on Amazon appear to be much better quality and I compared with photos from other item listings (where some were charging a whopping $7 for just one!). So that seems to be the better way to go.

Yeah, I followed the link and dropped the wheels and did a measurement. Looks like 55mm from the center of the mounting stud to the center of the pad. Measurement is rough because I didn't go so far as to drop the calipers ... I had to estimate the center of the mounting stud visually ... I'm sure I'm in the ballpark and a 57mm drop set should do fine.

I think these (and other) long reach calipers will do the trick.

Trying to get good info on which of these are a good choice.

Those Shimanos are just north of $100 for a set.

There's also a Cane Creek set in that price range.

I was also looking at velo-orange grand cru long reach brakeset. It's pricier at $170 for the set, but they look quite nice.

Priced between the shimano and the Velo-orange is TRP's RG957 @ $125 for the set. This may be the real sweet spot, if the ones below are "no upgrade".

The other end of the spectrum gets us Tektro R539 and also Miche Performance at ~$40 for a set?! Maybe the true "bang for your buck" category unless they're no real upgrade from my current no-name set. Nashbar has their own branded version similarly priced.

I haven't seen much in the way of reviews for the Miche or Velo-orange sets. The Shimano and Tektro brakes tend to be reviewed favorably.

EDIT: It looks like Shimano recommends 5600/6600 series levers for the R650's, so I guess they're out of the running. The TRP's are starting to look pretty attractive.

The brakes are probably pre bled. You will probably have to cut the cables to proper length though. If you are careful it can be done without needing a bleed, but its a good idea to have a bleed kit. If you ride often, you will probably want to bleed every 3 to 6 months anyways.

Also, you will want some good grease. This park tools stuff is good and can be used for headset and bb.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PPL-1-Polylube-Grease/dp/B000NORVHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466124475&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tools+grease

Bleed kit like this would get you started if you have Shimano brakes.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Bleed-Kit-Mineral/dp/B00F4LCS5A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466124626&sr=8-2&keywords=shimano+bleed+kit

Edit: also, I noticed your comment below about making a headset press from a threaded rod and some washers. I do this. Used it to press in a couple headsets, and a press fit bottom bracket. Worked great and costs like $10.

"fully engaged"

What does that mean? Are your levers bottoming out? Do you have a lot of lever movement before the pads engage the rim? If so, maybe your brake cable tension lever on the caliper is in the 'released' position (to make removing the wheel easier/possible).

It's this thing (in picture A).

If neither, then "fully engaged" must mean "as strong as your hands are", right? I would check the things others have mentioned.. remove pad glaze, degrease and clean rim braking surface, make sure the pads are aligned properly, make sure the levers/cables operate smoothly and freely.

Edit: It looks like your Trek has "Alloy dual-pivot" brakes. Consider upgrading to some better calipers, like 105. But before you do, double check the compatibility (cable pull ratios are a thing). You probably have ST-2400 levers. Any of the BRs in any of the first, second, or third boxes on the compatibility chart will work. I recommend the BR-5800 Shimano 105 calipers. If you're on a budget, the Tiagra calipers would be nice, too.

Amazon or eBay will have a brake kit.

CNC Adaptor: https://www.amazon.com/UAUS-Sprocket-Adapter-Motorized-Bicycle/dp/B07ZJ3STLC/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1RF5YNX546933&keywords=motorized+bicycle+sprocket+adapter+kit&qid=1574881286&sprefix=motorized+bicyle+sp%2Caps%2C319&sr=8-6

Disc Brake kit: https://www.amazon.com/BlueSunshine-Front-Back-Disk-Brake/dp/B07458MXNB/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=motorized+bicycle+disc+brake+kit&qid=1574883409&sr=8-1
Note: The CNC hub has a 6 bolt pattern near the center of the hub to bolt the rear disc onto. If you wish to use disc up front, you will need a front wheel or hub that can adapt to disc brakes. You can also find 26" wheels with these disc brake hubs already installed.

Front disc brake will need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Life-Adjustable-Bracket-Mounting/dp/B019OML8VE/ref=pd_bxgy_468_2/136-3711700-3661816?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019OML8VE&pd_rd_r=9be28cda-a6eb-4e2e-917e-90974ef50b31&pd_rd_w=wq72u&pd_rd_wg=XttIU&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=26T3QTM8CF54HNDW67HP&psc=1&refRID=26T3QTM8CF54HNDW67HP

For the front, you will need a new front wheel. https://www.amazon.com/Alex-Rims-Alloy-Front-Wheel/dp/B01FWHAHEE/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=26+x+1.75+bike+rim+disc&qid=1574887171&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1

Disc Brakes are ideal, (better stopping) but if you don't want to go the hassle of installing them, you can instead opt for v brakes.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cruiser-Steel-73-91mm-Chrome/dp/B000AO5J16/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=motorized+bicycle+v+brake+kit&qid=1574883735&sr=8-12

Use this video as a guide to installing disc brakes on your bike (please note, the rear disc will be bolted to the motorized bike sprocket, so, its mainly good for the front.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emW7M-ZD0Pw&t=104s


Also, if you prefer "Mag" wheels as opposed to spokes, here's a nice set of BBR tuning mags for $119. These Include the motorized bicycle rear sprocket, so the above listed CNC Sprocket Adapter will NOT be needed if you buy these wheels. The Mags are disc brake ready, no additional adapters needed outside of the front and rear caliper mounts.

https://www.amazon.com/BBR-Tuning-Mountain-Cruisers-Motorized/dp/B076PWYSFS/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=bicycle+disc+brake+wheel&qid=1574884536&refinements=p_n_feature_six_browse-bin%3A6404041011%2Cp_36%3A-20000&rnid=386589011&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-10

Make sure everything fits your bike before purchase. Also, feel free to do some research.

Truth is that you can replace almost any component on a bike, they are relatively simple machines. With the right tools disassembling a bike is pretty straightforward. The issue is how much money would an upgrade cost vs the difference you notice.

On this level of bike I would primarily optimize for comfort. The saddle and grips should be comfortable for you for whatever type of riding you prefer. The tire size and tread should match the terrain you ride. For example knobby mountain tires will be noisy and inefficient for street riding, high pressure road tires would be uncomfortable on rough terrain.

For a commuter bike you'll want to accessorize. Get a rack to carry your bag, get lights for night riding, get fenders if it rains a lot where you live.

Performance wise the only thing I would change on a bike like the 7.1FX is the brake pads. At least with my hybrid the pads were miserable, especially in wet weather. They would gather aluminum dust in little holes and scratch my rim. I got these: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Threaded-Salmon/dp/B000BMT2GU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411934931&sr=8-1&keywords=kool+stop+salmon brakes and I never had to worry about cleaning out the pads again.

If you end up doing a lot of biking (like 500-1000 miles a year), you may want to consider clipless pedals and shoes. This is a pretty common upgrade that makes your pedaling more efficient and will transfer to any newer bike.

There are maintenance items that you will likely have to replace or repair based on wear such as chains (1000 miles, or have wear measured by a chain tool), rear cassettes (should be after like 4-6000 miles if you replaced your chains on time, wheels (whenever spokes start popping and it can't be trued anymore), crankset/chainrings (probably unlikely, but maybe after 10k miles?).

I like to upgrade as things break, replace it with a higher quality component. I feel like this makes more sense financially than repairing something that already functions well.

cheapest solution is to just get a set of shimano hydraulic brakes, they should work but you may need to buy an adaptor if your hayes brakes are not post mount.

something like this would do the job, spending more gets you lighter parts, and/or different pads which offer better heat dissipation. Deore XT and XTR have a free stroke adjust as well as the regular reach adjust.

If you buy shimano brakes as a set they normally come pre bled so you don't need to mess with the oil, but you may need to trim them down if they're too long. Trimming them doesn't require bleeding if you do it carefully and don't drip any oil from the hose or reservoir.

Shimano brakes use mineral oil which does not absorb water/air like the DOT fluid from your hayes brakes do. I also have not experienced any long term issues with their seals.

Depends on how much of a budget you are on, but I would do a set of Shimano MT200s from amazon (cheaper on ebay/aliexpress), and your pick of rotors.

I just did this actually, and went with the linked brake set (got mine from ebay) and some Shimano RT66 Rotors (~$20 each) Front/Rear. Avid rotors can be had cheaper (~$10-13 each).

After making the upgrade to hydraulics over mechanicals I would never go back. That said, my other bike has Avid BB7s on em which arent too expensive and pretty good.

https://www.amazon.com/JGbike-Compatible-Hydraulic-Shimano-1450mm/dp/B07JKQLHF1/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mt200&qid=1563328107&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1

General rule of thumb for 10-speed or fewer for Shimano: the number of sprockets in the cassette should match the number of speeds for the shifters, and the rear-derailleur should be Shimano compatible (which basically means the amount of cable pulled per mm of movement remains the same). A MTB derailleur allows for wider gearing in the back (bigger sprockets), but is otherwise being pulled the same amount by the shifters (same number of sprockets).

It's never a bad idea to spend a little extra on brakes, but I actually have had great luck with Sunlite cantilever brakes as long as a) you set it up correctly and b) use a different, higher quality set of brake pads.

You're very welcome.

>There's no way to make a motorized wheelchair that stylish.

This is what I tell my friends about wearing helmets. I'd rather look dorky on the bike temporarily, than off the bike permanently.

That said, the SRAM Apex brake in black would go nicely with your frame, and it actually looks better than the more expensive models, except maybe the SRAM Red brake.

Good luck!

Any good bike store will be able to size you right... I have a 23" frame. You probably want disk brakes. You don't want full suspension for a commuter bike. Go with front suspension that you can lock. You will probably always have it locked because well...Commuter bike... Seriously consider a single speed, because, every time you stand on your pedals to pick up speed to cross the street quickly or whatever, you as a big man, are putting a TON of force on the gears, which as I have learned (the hard way)....(twice)...Will bend the gears unless your in a really low gear. A new set of gears, cost about a fourth the price of a decent bike. You'll want a different seat, those super light saddles that come with your bike are NOT made for you, you want something with gel or foam (you don't want just a gel cover those slide and are generally a pain) get something like this. For reference this is my bike...I have the 2011 model which is only a different color. I have since put on a different saddle, (one from an older bike) swapped out the brakes and have bought a second set of tires for the summer months. I really enjoy the 5 mile ride to and from work everyday. IF you get an ss (single speed) you legs will hurt for the first month. But after that you'll have SUPER calves and youll be passing everyone with their lazy gears...=) Dont be afraid to ask any questions. Hope this helps.

I can't speak for the calipers you listed, but since it's in the actual description and not just one person's review, I would be hesitant.

I can, however, speak for the levers though. I have them and absolutely love them. Very responsive. I've been using them with Nashbar brake calipers and it would be easy for me to put myself over the handlebars.

You may realize this, but just incase, i wanted to point it out. The 105 calipers you listed are sold as singles, so you're looking at $100+ for the calipers. Nashbar has a pair of black calipers for $35. Just something to consider.

Like others have said here, brake placement from 26" to 650B will be a pain to get dialed in and will likely require you get creative or get some kind of adapter to get them to fit. I've also heard that extending the reach of the brakes reduces your braking power to less than optimal. Best of luck with the build!

Check ebr they have a rad specific forum. Rad mini would have been more ideal since it folds. For maintenance doing yourself is best. Not that hard and you know you do a quality job.

For brakes i swapped to ceramic pads. More quiet and better stop. I hope to convert to hydraulic when i have funds.
Trp Hy/Rd Cable-Actuated Hydraulic Disc Brake w/ 160mm Rotor, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DGYIVKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vAZACbGV508PJ


https://electricbikereview.com/forum/forums/rad-power-bikes/

Honestly this looks like a pretty well balanced bike for the money. Most useful things are probably accessories rather than upgrades. Mudguards, lights, bags or a rack so you can carry stuff around, bar end mirror, etc.

I had a similar bike, as a 'larger' gentleman (110kg), my first upgrade was replacing the Tektro with better brakes: Shimano Deore M6000.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SHIMANO-Deore-Mountain-Bicycle-Assembled/dp/B074JGSYBN/

Do you ride mostly on roads? Any off-road dirt / mud etc.?

If mostly on roads then maybe some slicker / thinner 'urban' tires, something like a 700x28c

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TYKENKWST/kenda-k-west-700c-wired-tyre

One thing on spec looks wrong though, is the front chainset really 38/36/26t? or 48/36/26t?

> If I am going to get one new brake, I might as well get two.

That is a ridiculous argument seemingly designed to turn a reasonable sum into an unreasonable sum.

http://www.amazon.com/M-Wave-364700-Cantilever-Brake-Silver/dp/B007Y5GG0C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427124416&sr=8-2&keywords=cantilever+brake

$10.43 with prime shipping

> Then I have to wait for shipping as well, so I would be waiting for days at a minimum.

So you're adding the constraint of time.

Short answer is, no, spring steel is not commonly available in straight wire form at home improvement or hardware stores.

If you want this cheap and you want it now and you don't just want a spring, but the spring retainers the best answer is to get a set of brakes. As was said cantis have come in 10,000 variants throughout the years and so whenever I break a canti part I simply replace the entire pair with another set.

I don't know where you are, but every bike co-op I've ever seen has a bin full of cantis and every bike shop I've been in has cheap generic cantis and any decent sized US city has a Craigslist on which, if you post a wanted ad in the bike section, will garner a dozen replies within a day.

EDIT: Still in Cleveland area? I hope not if you're thinking Home Depot over

http://www.ohiocitycycles.org/

I second the suggestion for cr-720s. decent stopping power for the price, great mud clearance, easy set up. I've had them on the nature boy i've raced for the past 3 years. And yes, change the pads. I use the Salmon Kool Stop pads and they work very well.

Nice find! I even raced one of these for a bit. It seems like it's been sitting for a while. I would replace:

• Tires: Get the biggest tire that'll fit.
  
• Brake Pads: This bike looks like it's been sitting. The rubber in the pads is toast. Get some Kool Stops
  
• Chain: Never trust an old one. KMC makes solid stuff.
  

>Brakes didn't do anything in the rain...

Get used to it haha. But seriously, cantilever's are known to be bad and worse when wet. I would recommend salmon kool-stop pads but that will only get you a bit better stopping. Look into mini v brakes for more stopping power.

The tire's look like tufo brand? The color shouldn't mean anything if that's the case. If you're commuting/pleasure riding/training you should be on clinchers (standard tires/not tubulars as it sounds like that's what you have) and have a tube/patch/tire lever/frame pump. I rode with just tubulars for a year or so, but I'm wiser now.

I have Shimanos, but I think the process is similar the fluid is just different. Here's the kit I bought:

Shimano Brake Bleed Kit with Mineral Oil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4LCS5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DIJUBb8V4W6FG

Having the syringe was super helpful and I'm not sure that was included with the factory kit

I bought this m315 set from amazon. About the same price each, installed, 100% functional, they are fantastic for an ebike, lots of power, but sensitive enough to allow me to perform stoppies on clean pavement.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073YQP5R8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdo_t1_fLyLBbQZFVDND

These are my go-to pads. I had a hybrid commuter for 3 or so years (Marin Muirwoods). Didn't have a computer, so I don't know how many miles they lasted, but I would get around 9 months of commuting out of a set before they needed to be replaced. They held up pretty well in the snow and ice, too.

If you're looking for the absolutely cheapest option possible, these cantis will be compatible with your current brake levers (cantilevers and v-brakes use different cable pull ratios). They were easy to adjust, doesn't used those underengineered plastic tensioner rings found on old Shimano cantis, and otherwise worked perfectly fine right up till the day I sold the whole bike.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-Cantilever-Brake-Silver/dp/B003Q3Y0YK

I got the bleed kit from this guy, and it's been fine with keeping my XTs running smooth. Just start doing some YouTube research, like all of us other "YouTube mechanics" 😁

Shimano Brake Bleed Kit with Mineral Oil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4LCS5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KOz4Ab289WVJ3

Thank you so much for this comment, thinking more about repair on the road, and a lower entry into doing maintenance on them myself definitely makes me lean toward mechanical, do these look like what I would want: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TV7FHI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A21IJWK8BH7UE6&psc=1

Gran Compe 610 center-pulls

I've gathered that my mechanical advantage is probably too high, or my cables are too slack, either way resulting in my lever bottoming-out on my bar before enough force is applied to the brake.

Here's what I think I need to do:

• raise tension in the yoke cable by using a 3rd hand tool
  
• improve seating of the housing ends (one end of which I know for sure is messed up)
  
• probably get a new hanger (mine has visible flex)
  
• get one of those extra wide yokes, to increase the transverse cable angle a bit, decreasing the mechanical advantage a bit, and increasing effective cable pull
  
  I will try all this and see how goes. The only thing I'm still uncertain on is how wide of a yoke to get, and I'm not currently at my bike to see how wide the stock DiaCompe yokes are.
  
  This tektro 1246A yoke is 40mm wide, while this problem solvers yoke is 50mm wide. I'm thinking wider is better, but there's really no way to know yet.
  
  If none of these solve the issue (which I expect they will), I may have to resort to a travel agent to increase my cable pull while keeping my tt levers.

Kool Stop Salmon pads are debatably the best budget caliper brake pads. (available on amazon, as well as most bike shops)

try removing the pads from the brake to compare, as they come in various shapes and form factors, though typically either an 'insert' that is hammered in with an awl, or a pad with a screw on it that can just be threaded on.

it may also be worth watching the park tool brake video for handy tricks on how to set toe-in (avoid squeaky annoying and save wear on the pads) as well as any adjustment settings you might desire.

the form of brake on your bike, the direct pull caliper is adequate for long pull bike levers, and offer a large amount of braking force for a small amount of movement at the caliper, but the biggest pain I've experienced with them is when one side doesn't pull as much as the other, requiring you to remove it so you can place the spring on the next peg and hope its enough adjustment

If you aren't trying to spend big money to fully restore it, can't you just get any cheap canti straddle yoke? You can find them at any major retailer that has bike stuff or at any bike co-op.

Using this yoke https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-1246A-Yoke-Hanger-Brake/dp/B002G33ZWY/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1473698780&sr=8-11&keywords=tektro+hanger helps tremendously in quickening the action and firming the feel of those brakes. Throw on some Kool Stop Thinline pads and you should be good-to-go.

How are this brakes?

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BR-4600-Tiagra-Caliper-Silver/dp/B005DTQGJ2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370018038&sr=8-2&keywords=Shimano+brakes

and

http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Apex-Brake-Caliper-Set/dp/B003RLLDV4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1370018353&sr=8-6&keywords=Tektro

Would these work and keep the extra for a spare/replacement.
https://www.amazon.com/BlueSunshine-Front-Back-Disk-Brake/dp/B07458MXNB/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=front+bicycle+brake+kit&qid=1574045850&sprefix=front+bicycke+brake&sr=8-4#immersive-view_1574046103104

I commute too, and I'm going to suggest the two things I've done. The first is to get a bell and ding the shit out of it all the fucking time. It seriously gets people's attention. The second thing is to replace your front brake pads with KoolStop Salmon pads. The salmon pads squeal like a motherfucker, and are also fantastic at getting people's attention.

I feel your pain. People just don't pay attention to cyclists, and then they act like we're the assholes.

edit: added link to brake pads