Reddit mentions: The best bike car rack accessories

First off as a reminder for everybody: if you guys could make suggestion posts self-posts, that would be great! I'll leave this here since you've already got some comments already and are off road in the picture. :)

Now...

Here is my wagon currently.

There's a pretty good amount of stuff you can do for your wagon. :)

Starting with protection, Primitive makes excellent quality plates that will keep your car safe from rocks and branches from stabbing into your under-body driving or if you bottom out. I highly recommend Primitive. They're excellent to work with.

Let's talk about lifts, now! :) There's multiple ways to lift an Outback. Subtle Solutions and Gorilla Off-Road Company both make 1" Spacers that allow you to lift without much (if any) correction to the suspension.

After lifting, getting an alignment is definitely recommended. Also note that 2" is pretty much the max for lifting our cars unless you're wanting to getting into dropping the subframe. SJR makes a lift that goes 4" and 6", but they increase in price significantly from the 2" model.

If you're looking for a lift that has some more on the road benefits, King Springs are another viable option as they have ~20% stiffer progressive spring rate that keeps the car stiffer on corners and keeps you from bouncing around off-road. They're usually put on new shocks and the most commonly used ones are KYB GR2s. There's a little discrepancy on how much they lift, but it's usually 1"-1.5". The King Spring + KYB GR2 combo will run you ~$900, which is a little pricey, but worth it if you're looking for an improved ride.

One last route to go (which I think I'm going to do these and regular height King Springs) is an SJR lift which uses metal lifting blocks found here. They provide a 2" lift and are angled to keep stock strut geometry which is definitely nice.

Lights are a place you can mix it up a bit. Hella 500s are tried and true and have a more "rally" look to them, but I recently bought this front LED light bar and absolutely love it. It's light output is ridiculous and it's great for the price. So far, no complaints. Just remember for bulb lights, circle lights generally put out more. :) Her's my top LED light bar as well if you're interested.

I got this roof rack and am very happy with it. It's solid and great for the money. They make an extension piece as well and a cargo net

Rally Armor Mud Flaps are useful for keeping the mud on your car down and also defecting rocks from your paint. :)

And last but not least, tires! I highly recommend General Grabber AT2s. You can go about one more tire size bigger than stock and still not rub. :) Tires are one of the best upgrades you can get for going off-road. :)

I hope this helps! :)

• Chain wear measuring tool
  
  Optional, you can actually use a ruler if you want. But it makes the job a bit easier and more foolproof.
  
  
• Chain breaking tool (plier-style or punch-style, can't remember how my chain is put together at the moment)
  
  When it's time to replace your chain you'll need the "punch-style" chain tool to size the new one correctly, regardless of the type of chain you currently have. But you won't need one until then, so it's up to you if you want to buy it now or later. The "plier-style" is for removing quick links, but that's mostly a matter of convenience: I just recently got one myself, until now I've just used my fingers, or maybe a bit of wire if it's stuck.
  
  
• Chain cleaner tool
  
  I've used these, but I'm not a big fan. For regular chain maintenance, just some degreaser on a rag is enough. For deeper cleaning there's lots and lots of ways to clean a chain, including these cleaning tools. Other options: remove and shake in a bottle, use an ultrasonic cleaner, use two nail brushes pressed together ... or just not bothering with deep cleaning. It's really up to you.
  
  
• Degreaser (is this bike specific/not?)
  
  I use Simple Green for most jobs. There's bike-specific degreaser, though, if you want.
  
  
• Chain lube (is this bike specific/not?)
  
  This one is definitely bike specific! There's lots of options out there, but cleaning and lubing regularly is more important than which one you use. If you ride in the rain a lot, get a wet lube. I like wax-based lubes, for what it's worth.
  
  
• Brush set (any ones in particular? I know I need the sickle-shaped cog scrapey thing, a bottle brush and something finer)
  
  I use an old toothbrush. I've never bothered with the "sickle-shaped cog scrapey thing," but that's because I remove the cassette completely if it gets dirty enough to need that.
  
  
• Dummy hub
  
  Meh, if you want. I've never needed it.
  
  
• Bike stand
  
  I recommend finding something that lets you work on the bike at a more manageable height. Official bike stands are expensive, but work very well. There are cheaper options that get the job done, though.
  
  For a long time I just mounted a bike hanger like this to the wall. The bike just sits in it, not overly secure, but it's enough to get the bike to a working height, and you can pedal to work on the chain. Enough to do basic maintenance. It also doubles as bike storage. I found this works best with road bikes (narrower handlebars).
  
  More recently, though, I made a bike stand. It's still a work in progress, but I'll post pictures of it here eventually. It's made from sawhorse brackets and 2x4's as the base, and then I use this bracket for my road bike and this bracket for my mountain bike to secure it. The front wheel comes off and clamps down, and the bottom bracket rests on the top of the saw horse, with the wheel hanging off the back. It's secure, I can work in my yard and clean the bike on it, and it was pretty inexpensive to make. And I don't have to worry about clamping to carbon, or where I'm going to clamp with the suspension in the way, etc. The only downside is you can't work on the front wheel or brakes very conveniently. My design doesn't store very compactly, though I'm sure you can find a better way if that's a concern.
  
  Most other tools can be picked up on an as-needed bases. Cable cutters when you replace cables. Lockring tool and chain whip when you want to remove the cassette. Bottom bracket wrench when it's time to service the bottom bracket. Cone wrenches when you service the hubs. A torque wrench if you have a carbon fiber bike. Etc.
  
  I can't help with phone mounts, so I'll let someone else make a suggestion there.

Sure, the Decathlon and Yosemite are very similar, both have 24v 250w motors and 7ah battery which is a modest size but should get you 20km. They would be adequate for towing a trailer on flat ground and up slight hills. The Monark and GreatWhite use more powerful 36v motors suitable for towing a trailer up moderate hills. The Monark has a much larger 11ah battery than the others so you could ride further, plus it has a 3-speed internal gear hub that lets you shift up or down gear when you are stationary which is very useful in stop and go city traffic. The GreatWhite is good value despite having a smaller 8ah battery I like it has a front disk brake which should provide Good stopping power. The Trinx is a pedal bicycle weighing 6kg lighter so will be easier to carry onto a bus. Finally you must consider what service level you need, Monark (3 year guaranty) and Decathlon (2 year guaranty) will honor their warranty, you can take the bike into one of their stores for service, vs the other cheaper bikes you will need to research how reliable the shop selling the bike is providing after sales service.

To attach the trailer to the Monark because it has an internal gear hub you would need to add a Thule axle adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/Thule-Child-Carrier-Internal-Adapter/dp/B00FY2ETAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=thule+axle+adapter+internal+gear+hub&qid=1555338822&s=instant-video&sr=8-1-fkmr1

A very inexpensive method for transporting your bike in the bed of your Tacoma is to purchase something this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7GRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_05dszbQ8H30KX

I bought 2 to transport friends bikes for a big event 4 of us went to. Screwed them to a piece of plywood and set it in the back of my F-150. Worked very very well. These are for traditional quick release axles. Amazon (and I'm sure your LBS) sells a version for through axle.

I definitely recommend a pair of shorts or bibs. For me personally it's bibs 100%. Since I got a set last summer, I haven't rode anything else.

Lock is nice if you plan to leave the bike unattended.

Waterbottles are a must.

A minimal set of tools so you can repair a flat and make adjustments on the road.

You do NOT absolutely need shoes or pedals right now. You can enjoy the bike as is and buy pedals/shoes when you are ready. Some shops will sell the bike with no pedals, others will include them. You can probably get them to throw in some cheap pedals with the sale to get you by for a while.

I also highly suggest a blinking head and tail light - as bright as possible. For day or night riding it'll help others see you.

Which bike did you end up deciding on? Your list in the other post was quite extensive and a very good list. Good luck!

I somehow managed to score the Rhino Rack for $152.71 on Amazon, which is about 1/3 the original cost. I'm pretty sure it was a return or scratch-and-dent because the package was partially opened and there was a 4" gouge along the bottom of the rear cross bar. I just used some black enamel paint to cover it up.

Rhino Rack 2016-2017 Compatible with Chevrolet Cruze Including Limited 4dr Sedan Vortex RS 2500 Sport Roof Rack Black RS215B

The ROLA Cargo Basket was $119.59 which again, I somehow managed to get at 30% off. I guess constantly scouring Amazon eventually pays off. The basket is pretty well constructed and very strong, but it's also heavy thick steel. I would have preferred aluminum to save weight.

ROLA 59504 V-Tex Rooftop Cargo Basket

I also got the ROLA Cargo Net that fits the rack. I figured it was best to get the matching one in case any of the other random ones on Amazon didn't fit correctly. Also very strong and has just enough stretch to accommodate about 8" of cargo in the basket.

ROLA 59200 Flat Strap Cargo Net

Finally, I ordered a two pack of Cruze logo stickers off eBay and rubbed off the ROLA logo to put that in its place. Adds a nice custom touch.

2X CHEVROLET CRUZE logo sticker vinyl decal

Yes - I have a 987 Cayman with the RockBros one-bike version from Amazon. It has been great so far! I have a bunch of pictures but they aren't on the interwebs yet.

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It has withstood 70+ mph speeds while raining so I'm highly confident in it. I'm pretty sure a single one of the suction cups could hold the bike and there are 3 of them below the quick-release. Still, I don't do any aggressive cornering with a bike connected.

No. At the time I started biking, you could get very good premade grocery panniers for $25, so it wasn't worth the trouble, I just bought two premade ones.

Grocery panniers are great for occasional use, but in the end, a Wald brand folding bike basket $20 at Amazon is the better choice. I have one mounted on all my bikes and I have a bike cargo net I can use to strap another grocery bag or something oddly shaped like a watermelon, to the top of the rack, and then I use the grocery pannier if I need extra capacity.

The grocery panniers are made of fabric, so they're not as durable, and so they are really only suitable for occasional use. The hooks jut out so you have to keep them facing out, their collapsibility makes them a bit flimsey, and the lack of two handles like a cloth grocery bag makes them sort of tippy when you have them strapped over your shoulder.

Get the folding basket for $20, a bike cargo net for $8, and two cloth grocery bags. You'll be way ahead and it will cost around $35.

You can get 3 kayaks (maybe 4) on a properly setup "Stacker" system - Malone, Rhino, Thule and others make such systems (basically two poles that mount ontop crossbars that can fold down when not in use) Example

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Prerequisites - you'll need a good set of crossbars & mounts that can bear the weight of 3-4 kayaks. Then get the stackers, good cam straps (6), some minicell foam blocks (6) ( two sets usually come with the stackers) and bow stern ties (6) and you'll be set! Tip - if you get Crossbars that extend past your roof by 6"+ or so inches, you may be able to fit 4 kayaks on your roof...just be sure to be careful on your turns ;-)

​

This is the stacker we used and carried 4 kayaks for a while, until we moved onto a KariTek system

These Allen racks are pretty decent for the price. We used the 3 bike version on my wife's car for a while and it worked well. Eventually we upgraded to a 5 bike Thule rack when my wife got a new car with a 2" receiver. The Thule is nicer, but also more expensive. If you are set at the $150 price range the Allen rack is a good option. If you have a 2" receiver I would recommend going with the 4 or 5 bike version just to give you more room on the rack. The 3 bike version is a bit cramped with 3 bikes but it does work. With this hanging style rack you will probably need the cross bar adapters for full suspension bikes. Or any bike that does not have a straight top tube. Any brand will work but I linked the Allen one below since it is only $15. Also we used a bungee cord to keep the bikes from swinging.

http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Deluxe-3-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B001M4KXDM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342733293&sr=8-2&keywords=hitch+bike+rack

http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Deluxe-4-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B001PLG7UK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342733293&sr=8-1&keywords=hitch+bike+rack

http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Deluxe-5-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B001M4H2Q8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1342733293&sr=8-6&keywords=hitch+bike+rack

http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Tension-Bicycle-Cross-Bar-Adaptor/dp/B000ELSSZE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1342733293&sr=8-3&keywords=hitch+bike+rack

I have a 2013 Exile Comp and an Allen hitch mount rack. It works, but just barely so. I ride a large frame which is long enough so that one of the arms just fits through the space between the shock and top tube, a size medium or small would probably not work without a top tube adapter.

With a heaver bike (compared to a road bike) I would definitely recommend a hitch mount. I almost lost two bikes on the highway with a trunk mount rack as one of the straps failed. A hitch receiver for a Civic should be ~$125-200 and if you get the three bike Allen hitch rack (a great rack) for ~$150 you are looking at around ~$300, but it's a solution that will work quite well.

I got this for my Specialized Camber and it works great. I like how it locks with a quick clamp vs just a spring loaded mechanism like some of the other brands. Plus it is a bit cheaper than the Yakima.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0011FWLFU/ref=oh_details_o01_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can either get one of those crossbars that grabs the seatpost and the stem/steerer to create a horizontal holding point for the rack. Not the biggest fan of these because it's another thing to come loose and drop your bike on the highway, but it's the cheaper option.

http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Tension-Bicycle-Cross-Bar/dp/B000ELSSZE

Or you can get a new rack that holds the bike up like a platform. If you're still married to the idea of a rack that attaches to your car with straps, then this:

http://www.thule.com/en-us/us/products/carriers-and-racks/bike-carriers/rear-door-mounted-bike-carriers/thule-raceway-platform-2-bike-9003-_-16002

Otherwise, consider investing in a hitch mount. They're really not that expensive, most of the time are easy to install, and very stable/safe mounting point for a rack. You can also find hitch mount platform racks for cheaper than that Thule. I don't know of any cheaper strap attachment ones.

Here you go. It was fairly simple to put together too. Also now that I am doing the math again it may closer to $45.00, I wasn't adding the tax up. Either way I am pretty happy with the turn out. At least the bikes aren't laying on top of each other when we go riding now.

This is all from Lowes.

• Bike Fork Mount - http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Bicycle-Block-Mount-Black/dp/B000AO7GRG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1375992531&sr=8-3&keywords=bike+fork+mount
  
  
  
• The Hillman Group 3-Count 1/4-in-20 Stainless Steel Standard (SAE) Regular Wing Nut
  Item #: 409445 | Model #: 126893
  Unit Price - $1.98
  Quantity - 1
  Total -$1.98
  
  
  
• The Hillman Group 1/4-in-20 x 3/4-in Zinc-Plated Standard (SAE) Hex Bolt
  Item #: 55817 | Model #: 190009
  Unit Price - $0.11
  Quantity - 4
  Total - $0.44
  
  
  
• The Hillman Group 1/4-in- 20 Zinc-Plated Standard (SAE) Nylon Insert Lock Nut
  Item #: 63403 | Model #: 180147
  Unit Price - $0.12
  Quantity - 4
  Total - $0.48
  
  
  
• The Hillman Group 100-Count 1/4-in Standard (SAE) Split Lock Washers
  Item #: 63408 | Model #: 300018
  Unit Price - $0.16
  Quantity - 8
  Total - $1.28
  
  
  
• The Hillman Group 1/4-in-20 x 1-1/4-in Standard (SAE) Hex Bolt
  Item #: 61821 | Model #: 190018
  Unit Price - $0.15
  Quantity - 2
  Total - $0.30
  
  
  
• The Hillman Group 1-1/4 x 5/16 Fender Washers
  Item #: 68883 | Model #: 290024
  Unit Price - $0.16
  Quantity - 4
  Total - $0.64
  
  
  
• Steelworks 4-ft x 1-1/2-in Aluminum Solid Angle
  Item #: 215938 | Model #: 11356
  Unit Price - $8.33
  Quantity - 1
  Total - $8.33
  
  
  edit: Update and formatting.

An adapter like this that creates a top tube for carrying purposes is probably your best bet.

There are plenty of brands at different price points that do the same thing. I like the ones with a locking QR

In my old S10, I molly bolted 3 of those fork mounts to a 2x6 that fit into the molded shelf cutouts in the bedliner. I then used a ratchet strap thru the back wheels to tie them down to the bed. This was plenty good to keep them locked down on bumpy mountain dirt roads.

You could probably fit 4 if you staggered the mounts front to back a bit, and mounted them at an angle, so the bars are twisted a bit and not all up against each other.

Bikes you are asking is a bread-and-butter bike @ any LBS. I think you should visit your favorite LBS.

My current "go-to" bike is Momentum bikes (aka Giant.) It's designed for urban/suburban use, relatively inexpensive, and quite useful. Any LBS that sells Giant should be able to get one for you.

http://www.momentum-biking.com/us

http://www.bikerumor.com/2015/05/06/giants-spinoff-brand-momentum-wants-you-to-move-happy-with-their-new-cruiser-bikes/

If money/budget is not an issue -

http://www.rivbike.com/Rivendell-Atlantis-p/f-atlantis.htm



> Do I need anything extra if I want to mount the bike onto a car or a bus?

If the bike is step-through, you'd need a cross bar.

http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Tension-Bicycle-Cross-Bar/dp/B000ELSSZE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458854492&sr=8-1&keywords=Adjustable+Bike+Frame+Adapter

OP, PLEASE listen to everyone in the thread- those "brackets" are not going to hold for long. I ordered these for my truck bed @ $15 and they are fantastic assuming you mount them properly:


Delta Cycle Bike Hitch Locking Fork Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAM9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LzzrybEFH5T5X

I do this with road bikes. This was one of the main reasons I bought an HRV.

I bought a couple of fork mounts, mounted them on a 2 x 4 and used velcro strips to secure the assembly to the carpet in the HRV. Works great since the bikes don't move around in the back.

I’ve also seen things like this Cross Bar adapter at my local bike shop. Could be helpful?

I also picked up two of these Allen Sports Tension Bar Bicycle Cross-Bar Adaptor at $16.96 a piece for the bikes without crossbars.

They worked very well and required zero effort to put them on or take off. There's a big spring inside that comes under tension when you stretch them in order to hook the seat post, which holds them securely.

Super simple. Takes less then 20 seconds to put them on or off.

There is! The Yakima fairing is just under $100 depending on what size you go with (I’m not entirely too sure which size would work best. Most likely 46” or 52”).


Yakima WindShield, 46" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171A6KKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ThWcBbVNFNG6S

This is the one I have:
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047THVIO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm very happy with it.

I'm using the Malone Stax Pro 2 and love it! It comes with the foam pads, straps (4 for the kayak, and 2 for front/rear tie down (not pictured here)).

Yesterday was actually the first time using it and it all worked way better than I expected. The kayaks didn't budge at all while tightened down. I also considered the J-cradles but decided on the Malone because it is about 40 bucks cheaper, not to mention for 2 kayaks, I would have needed 2 sets of the J-cradles, which would have been around $330 total.

By the looks of it, He has a custom BMX Y cable splitting the front brake lever into 2. One side goes into his OG brake, the other side has the EZ split you see him screw on. When the lever is pulled, the cargo caliper would stop the bike, but the original caliper would just open and close as if you pressed the brake without a wheel / disc.

It's connected to the bike via the front fork and the bottom bracket. The bottom bracket uses a U-Bracket similar to the ones found on Mid-Drive e-bikes that use the bottom bracket as a large bolt to hold everything in place. once installed it would not hinder the operation and would barely be noticeable. I'm assuming this bracket has some sort of quick release or thru axle to attach the cargo frame.

The front fork mounts to a secondary headset with fork mounts instead of a stem and a cargo steering linkage instead of a fork. All of that connects to the actual front fork with an arm. This causes handling to be nearly identical to the original bike with the exception of wheel base. The only thing that confuses me about this is how does it account for the rake of various forks? There would need to be some sort of rotating hinge in order to prevent binding when the angles don't match

And that's the story about how I spent 4 hours watching a 20 second video instead of sleeping

I have a saris bones rack and I read on some forums that the hatch huggers work perfectly.

http://www.amazon.com/Saris-Hatch-Huggers-Trunk-Mount/dp/B000BT6Q6M

Haven't gotten around to getting them though since the weather has been shitty.

Durable Bike Bicycle Hook Tie Elastic Cord Luggage Bungee Strap Rope Band（2pcs） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LM1GHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y1jSAbKC708ZV

Holds pretty well but elastic enough not to crush the giant bags of spinach and tortilla chips in there. I have the handles of that bag looped over the back of the stem to prevent the load from pitching forward during a short stop. Sometimes I'll use an additional bungee to secure it to the frame horizontally.

Ya I got this one, but also got the hatch hagger straps like:
https://www.amazon.com/Saris-Hatch-Huggers-Trunk-Mount/dp/B000BT6Q6M

If you don't have panniers you can mount one of those fork blocks on your rear rack or cargo bike platform. Works great when you need to take a bike into the shop and don't want to drive.

Fork Mount

Depending on whether you are just throwing your boat in the back of your trick or onto a rack there are a few different options. For the rack there are the expensive Thule and Yakima side loaders, and some cheaper Malone options that include suction rollers and extension bars.

One of the simplest items is just the simple pole with a bracket on top. Something you could easily make yourself. An example of one would be: https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Rack-Universal-Loader-Kayaks/dp/B00C2Q3I72

With the pole you just need to get the front of your boat up onto the pole bracket and then you pick the back up and slide it over.

Because then it would slide all over the bed and get scratched, but seeing how he strapped his bike in also made me cringe. Please buy one of these.

Overhang is OK. Without a rack you are probably gonna have to use these, along with ratcheting straps.

shit...you can even get them cheaper and STILL be better off than this guy.

Actually, this looks promising, as there are replacement skewers for it.

I was seeing the ones that look like this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01ACE5IQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_wQqVAbKAJB2AA

But I do see the ones you're talking about that have a tube.

I like the look of the Yakima fairing the best, although I don't use mine (I have the Yakima whispbar). I don't think it would be an issue to use a Yakima fairing on Thule setup and I highly doubt anyone would ridicule you for it or even notice for that matter.

Fitment with a moonroof also shouldn't be an issue as the fairing rests on the area between the windshield and moonroof.

Yakima's New Universal Fairing
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171A6KRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Yf.qxbGV0ZA58

get to the gym and start doing shoulder presses!!

depends on the person, and what vehicle. if you can do it on the grass, you won't scratch the kayak too much if you prop up one end on the vehicle and then lift the back up.

watch out for windy days though...yikes, that will mess you up.

there are roof loaders of different types that would help:

https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Rack-Universal-Loader-Kayaks/dp/B00C2Q3I72

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Tuff-OTF-01CR-Canoe-Loader/dp/B06X8ZK9W7

Yakima makes a wind fairing that will probably fix some of issues. I have the areo bars, so I can’t say.

https://www.amazon.com/Yakima-8005018-WindShield-46/dp/B0171A6KKU/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518632028&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=Yakima+wind+guard

Here's the link

What do you guys think of this style bike rack?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AO7GRG/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

Fork mount for trucks https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00IFW3LD8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Why couldn't you use this?

Just bolt some of these near the front of the bed: https://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Bike-Fork-Mount-Carrier/dp/B00IFW3LD8/

Use stainless hardware.

http://www.amazon.com/Malone-Standard-Block-Universal-Carrier/dp/B000SXN90C

Could I put these on the stock cross bars? Would they work for longer trips?

Edit: Also, don't have a kayak. Looking for canoe stuff.

Got a yakima 3 bike trunk rack for 70 on nashbar. Truck rack plus an adapter bar for your frame is the cheapest option. get on the googles

https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Tension-Bicycle-Cross-Bar/dp/B000ELSSZE

Lots of cheap options on Amazon. If you don't want the bar you can get a couple of these t-nuts that fit inside the track and screw the fork mount into that for an out of the way semi permanent options.

Sunlite Fork Mount Bike Block https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7GRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2dOwzbNNVRVQF

1018 Steel T-Slot Nut, Black Oxide Finish, Grade 5, Tapped Through, 3/8"-16 Threads, 5/8" Height, 9/16" Slot Depth, Made in US (Pack of 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SWGLHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IgOwzbJSKR2CC

I don't know specifically of any car rack that would work, but there is an adapter you can buy for bikes without a top frame post. It's an expanding metal tube that you attach to the seat post and the fork stem, and it allows for mounting of step thru bikes onto traditional bike racks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ELSSZE

Hooks were this kind of thing. I can't find the exact ones — mine were 1/4" by 4" with machine threads so I could put wing nuts on them.

Fork mount was this one, but there are a ton of options.

What if you get one of these, and attach/weld it to the BOB. Then all you need to do is remove the front wheel, and clamp down the bike to the mount. If the trailer is low enough, then I don't see you having any issues.

I carried my 17 foot Grumman on my 2003 Elantra all the time.

I did it by using split foam pipe insulation the length of the gunnels --this quiets down paddle on boat noise a lot. Then I installed 4 sturdy wire loops -- 2 front and 2 back to structural elements under the bumper. I had two ropes to the canoe front and back with big ass clips on them. the back ropes were fixed length, I would clip them on and then tie off the front ropes using the same type of big hardware store clip. -- then I would slip a ratchet strap through the open back doors and tighten that down around the boat.

This could be done with the foam blocks that they sell for car top canoe toteing also.

Sunlite Fork Mount Bike Block https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7GRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JdgKAbGCS2C36

How broke are you? Do younhave $15 left?

http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Tension-Bicycle-Cross-Bar-Adaptor/dp/B000ELSSZE

Oh totally man. I use the Malone Stax Pro 2. I got it on sale at a Dunham's back when I first got my kayaks so it wasn't as much as it is on Amazon. But it's definitely worth the money.

I mostly use it around town but once or twice a year, I go on a five hour trip to Virginia and get up to highway speeds with no problems.

Here's a couple more pics. 1 2

I have a shiny car that i don;t want to scratch too bad, and I'm just too lazy to lift my boat over my head when i load it alone, so i use one of these. Makes life a little easier.