Reddit mentions: The best bike cargo racks

Posting pictures of the bike would be helpful. If you decide to do this, make sure to post a few high quality shots of your drivetrain which could show us if there's any critical wear.

However, before you post the pictures, it would be helpful to clean the bike. Get a bucket of soapy water, find a sponge or rag that you don't mind sacrificing and get to cleaning your mountain bike. Dry it off, and then post the pictures (that will make any critical deficiencies more obvious).

As others have mentioned, you'll most likely need to remove the chain. Here's a video from one of the best cycling channels on Youtube, Global Cycling Network (GCN), that shows you exactly how to do that. GCN and its sister channel, Global Mountain Bike Network (GMBN) offer a number of fantastic maintenance videos in addition to a variety of other content. If you're wondering where to get a chain tool, I would just spend a bit of extra money and get a good multi tool like the Crank Brothers multi tool which already comes with one.

Pump up the tires to see if they still hold air. If they do, fantastic. Nothing more needs to be done. If not, you'll need to get new tubes (most likely your mountain bike will need 26 in X 1.9-2.125 in tubes). Here's how to install a new tube.


As a bike commuter, you'll need a number of things to stay safe and make sure your bike stays in your hands. Here are the essentials:

1. Front and rear lights. I use this flashlight for my front light, and a rear light similar to this.
   
   
2. A helmet. From your posting history, you seem to live in Australia. All helmets sold in that country are required to meet the same safety standards so in all likelihood, spending more on a helmet will not make you safer. Buy one in a store and you're set.
   
   
3. A great bike lock. Read this to learn the proper way to lock your bike.
   
   However, staying safe is only the first part. You'll want or need a number of other items to make sure that your commute isn't frustrating. Here are some of the items off of the top of my head.
   
   
4. Bike pump. If you're going to mostly ride near gas stations which have air pumps that can inflate a tube, you probably don't need to carry around a mini pump on your rides. However, everyone should own a floor pump.
   
   
5. Degreaser. The cheap automotive kind is fine as is WD 40. This is used when you need to clean the drivetrain.
   
   
6. Bike lube. Stick with a bike specific one.
   
   
7. Disposable poncho. When I lived in an area where it often rained, I always had a dollar store disposable poncho in my backpack. It's just super handy if there's an unexpected downpour.
   
   
8. Fenders. I personally don't have them, but I live in a relatively dry climate. If you live in a place where it always rains, they're super helpful.
   
   
9. Bottle cage. A cheap plastic one is fine.
   
   
10. Tire levers.
    
    
11. Rear rack. Assuming you don't have a full suspension mountain bike and instead have a hard tail (here's an article if you're unsure), get a rear rack. Do not get one that is only mounted to the seat post like this Ibera, but rather one that connects to the bike frame. If your bike does not have any bolts that can attach, you can use P clamps to secure the rack. This post describes how to do just that.
    
    
12. Some way to transport groceries. While I use a milk crate that I ziptied onto my rear rack with bungee cords on top of the crate (similar to this setup), many others use panniers to transport groceries and other goods. This has the benefit of more storage, better center of gravity, and can be water proof. However, they are usually much more expensive unless you go the DIY route.
    
    
13. Bike bell. Cars won't be able to hear you, but if you ride in areas with lots of pedestrians or other cyclists, it's useful.
    
    
14. Spare tube. Fortunately 26 in tubes are cheap and super easy to find. Any department store with a bike section will carry them.
    
    /r/bikecommuting can be a helpful resource if you have other questions.

I spent some time in google maps and and street view. For your Route Would going down Glenoaks Blvd to Sonora Ave then down Riverside Ave work for you? it ends up being 4.8 miles but with that route it's a bike lane until Riverside Dr and Bob Hope to your destination, so almost the whole trip would be by bike lane https://goo.gl/maps/oNfXYXZt9HS2. If you're comfortable walking you could walk the bike on the sidewalk for the last section of it and cool off. so you aren't riding "in traffic" until you're more comfortable with it.

For a pannier rack without a rack mount you can try something that attaches to your seat post if the load won't be too heavy like this https://www.amazon.com/Blackburn-Interlock-Seatpost-Rack-Black/dp/B00GCB6EEW/ref=sr_1_41?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1550901567&sr=1-41&keywords=seat+post+pannier+rack as long as it has something going down on the sides to keep panniers swinging into your back wheel as you ride. I've never used one like this so I don't have any first had advice on how well it keeps the bags from swinging into the rear wheel

Or you can try something like this https://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Road-DLX-Racks/dp/B003UWESMQ the bottom mounting holes go where your rear wheel axles are, the quick release skewer goes through the rack mounting holes and through the wheel. The silver looking tongue in the front goes between the rear brakes and the frame using the bolt for the brake calipers to hold it in place. It'll keep the bags stable, hold more weight than a seat post rack, and sit a little further back so your heels don't hit the panniers. I have this rack on an old road bike I use for my commute to work and I love it

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Hope you have a great time with your commute and stay safe

Yes, but good luck with that - this bike doesn't even have eyelets at the dropouts or a drilled brake bridge, much less proper mounting points on the seatstays. Where there's a will, there's a way, but your best bet will probably be something mounted to the seat post (like this), which is only a decent solution.

If you haven't yet bought this bike, I might recommend you choose a different one better-suited to mount a rack, and maybe with multiple gears, which I know are super uncool, but which are also super useful when you need to get a heavy load up a steep hill. If you've already bought it, I'm sure you'll be able to make it work well for you.

Hey guys I am looking for input on my current build. Tried to post earlier but it got removed without telling me why.

I originally bought the basic parts in fall of 2018 which included:

19" GT Agressor Pro from Dick's Sporting - $295

27.5" Conversion Kit 35MPH from LeafBike.com - $508.13

52v 14s9p-pf 25.7AH Triangle Battery Pack from EM3ev.com - $827.4

Rear Cargo Rack from Amazon - $25.99

SKS Velo Snap-on Fenders from Amazon - $21.65

BikeHand Toolkit from Amazon - $49.99

Shimano HG41 from Amazon - $16.70

Torque Arm from Amazon - $16.50

Park fr52 from REI - $7.15

Tire Liner from REI - $17

Tubes from Walmart - $20

Total $1825.51

Hot Damn! Never actually did the math that is quite a bit more than i thought it cost, I'm a little embarrassed I've been telling people that it cost around $1300 lol boy the shipping and tax just kills you!

Anyways it all arrived without issue (Thank goodness) and I put it together (minus the pedal assist due to a crank removal fiasco) with some difficulty as a number of things required modification to work. That rear wheel is an absolute biatch to install. I have had an absolute blast with it both on and off road since then. Only major gripe is with the controller, hella loud and super weak regen breaking.

Just recently decided to do some additional tweaking with the bike. Went on another spending spree over at Aliexpress. Ended up buying the following parts:

Pedals - $21.45

Longer Handlebar - $8.80

External Bearing Bottom Bracket and Cranks - 32.66

Four Pairs of Brake Pads - 5.29

3-Button switch - $27.49

Handlebar Grips - $2.66

Torque Arm - $8.35

Left hand thumb Throttle - $5.67

Lights DC 12v-48v - 20.89

42 tooth Chain ring - 17.60

Pannier - 30.51

1xSchwalbe MTB 27.5 2.25 - 50

Total $231.44

Already installed new bottom bracket and pedal assist (with some modification lol) and its amazing!

I am about to start getting into the electronics so i figured i would ask for advice before i solder everything up in case you guys come up with a better way to do things.

Anywho I am getting rid of those handle grips with the twist throttle in favor of a left handed throttle, this will allow me to shift on the rear cassette a lot easier. Then its on to replacing the super cheap switch (cruise, regen, reverse) with the Aliexpress switch (cruise, horn, lights, gonna short regen for always on) and add lights. Considering adding another on/off point for security but cant think of a great way to do that... Right now i have the BMS on/off at the battery itself (momentary switch) and the power on the LCD display itself.

Also anyone have a line on a cheap controller with strong regen breaking and sin wave fets? I see the ebikes.ca but looks like that requires cycle analyst v3 for pedal assist which doesnt seem to display information nicely plus itll cost around 265 for both...

> Origin8 Origin8 Classique Cargo HD mounts at the caliper bolt and the QR/Axle ... no need for any bosses on the fork. Be aware, though, that front racks really change the handling.

That the one that keeps coming up, but its a little larger than I'd like and i'm just ok with needing bungee cords. I've been looking at this guy that's smaller, i'll still bungee, but I like that I can drop a six pack in there and go.

> A CX/MTB bash guard might work, but an old toe strap cinched around your cuff is pretty effective.

I'll definitely forget to cinch at least every other time in the first year and terribly stain all my stuff. The bash guard is an excellent option.

> Leather bar tape doesn't weather well without significant maintenance. If you have to keep your bike outside at work, I'd go with something like Fizik Performance tape -- will be plenty comfy and require no maintenance. Or, if you don't mind something more radical, a double wrap of cloth tape (I like Newbaums) without shellac over cork is insanely comfy.

I'm lucky enough to have indoor parking. Hot damn, newbaums looks great.

> Lights! Good headlight, good taillight. Doesn't matter if you're riding day or night, the lights will help you get seen by bleary-eyed car commuters.

Right, I have Niterider lites that have saved me quite a few times.

That $1000 range is pretty ripe with options, lucky for you. Roads and paved trails definitely leaves you open to a road bike, not just a cyclocross bike. If the roads are really rough, you can move up to a 25mm or 28mm tire if need be, but you have the Bullit for any fun on dirt you could ever want to have.

Your desire for a rack, however, in some ways limits both road and cyclocross options, as it is likely you would like to have eyelets in the frame to mount racks (there are racks that don't require them, e.g. Axiom's Streamliner DLX). Both dedicated road and cyclocross bikes are usually designed for racing, so they often won't have the eyelets. The exceptions I know of are Trek's 1-series bikes, which may be your best road choice, and Specialized's Secteur, which has a more upright "endurance" geometry. I know of no dedicated cyclocross bikes with eyelets. There is a sort of "crossover genre" of... what would you call them... "sports cross" bikes? These are bikes like Specialized's Tricross and Trek's Crossrip. These bikes won't be as aggressive geometry or otherwise as either road or cyclocross bikes but may be suited to what you want.

As for sizing, I have a long ~35" inseam and ride a 58cm. Best thing I can recommend is going to a shop and trying out some bikes.

Here's what I wrote in another thread:

I ride with two Drift Stealth 2s and they're great - you can get them for about $85-100 apiece. They have 3-hour-ish battery life and on a 32 gig card can hold three days of my 20-mile-a-day commutes (they also have dashcam-like rollover so that you never have to worry about full memory, if you prefer that). They do 720p at 60fps or 1080p at 30fps, and while their picture isn't the equivalent of a GoPro, it's plenty good for legal purposes.

I highly recommend a helmet mount (vs. a bar mount) for your front-facing camera. You're much more likely to capture whatever shit's going on that way; a bar mount has a smoother picture but will miss anything happening to the side of your bicycle. One of the nice features of the Stealth 2 is that the camera lens rotates, so if you have to mount on your helmet at a funny angle you can turn the lens to compensate and still have a horizontal video.

For the rear mount, I used the sawed-off center beam of a seatpost-mounted back rack. There are cheaper seatpost-mounted back racks, but this particular model has a flat top, which makes it work well with the adhesive mount. I cut off everything but three-four inches from the beam, slapped the adhesive mount that comes with the Stealth 2 on there, and it's been going great even through weather for several months now.

If you have to choose between front and back for now, I'd definitely recommend investing in the front first.

Here's what they look like in daylight.

Here's what they look like during urban nighttime.

Here's what it looks like in rain.

Edit: It's notable that because the Stealth 2 uses a slide-in-slide-out mounting system, your mount-to-camera connection will loosen slightly over time from the friction of mounting and unmounting, which will cause vibration in the video after a while. I found that you can shim the inside of the mount with a strip of electrical tape, which tightens everything up nicely.

I'm lucky that I don't have a long commute. But this is by far the best way to get to work!

Edit: with links!

Little info on the bike for any others who are curios.

Bike: 2016 Raleigh Furley (on discount was ~$750 with tax). I love this bike it's awesome. Chromoly steel, real soft ride. Single speed so it's 0 maintenance. Last but not least, disc brakes. Not the best, but they are much better than rims especially in weather of New England.

Tires: Gatorskins 25mm

Honjo Fenders: Superb, takes a while to install. I could have a used a few more brackets to hold everything together better too. Definitely going to get a mudguard for the front maybe the back as well.

Rack is the Topeak explorer for disc brakes. Two Ortlieb back roller city panniers.

Misc: I have a cateye volt 700 for front light and the cateye rapid x3 for a tail light, both are super bright even in the daytime!

Bike computer: Old nexus 5 that I hold on with a quadlock to track everything to strava. I use Ipbike which hooks up to my duotrap and my scosche heartrate monitor.

For the bike itself I recommend you get a used old roadbike. That will offer plenty of fun already (you might never feel the need to upgrade) and it will give you time to figure if and what else you might want.

In addition to that I recommend: (All amazon links)

A bicycle tool with a chainbreaker tool, this will allow you to fix anything and everything that can go wrong on a bicycle. Not that the one I linked is very pricy, there are cheaper versions but with tools I always prefer having good stuff.

You will likely need new tires if you get an old bike, this is one point where you can drastically enhance performance by buying good ones. Ever since I bought Continental GP4000SII I haven't even thought about trying others. A set of these will last you for several years on a 3 Mile distance so the cost is neglible. Note that tyre sizes differ somewhat, if you get something really old these won't fit. Get the bike first and then buy the right size tyres (should be listed on the rubber of the old tyre, most road bikes use 700x25c).

In addition to that I would normally recommend a book on bicycle repairs, but if you head over to BikeMan4U on youtube he's one of the best people to learn that stuff from, very down to earth guy.

You will also need some way to transport your stuff to work, I recommend getting a simple wire basket and putting your backpack into there. Note that most road bikes are not built to accomodate a rear rack, you might need something like this.

That is basically what you will need to get started, maybe grab a cheap rain jacket and -trousers if you plan to really bike every day. I myself am no friend of cycle clothing and commute either in jeans / tshirt or aforementioned rain gear, which works just fine for my ~6 miles one way.

Of course that's just my opinion and you might end up buying something completely different, but this will get you on the road to happiness for 500 or less and I think at that point you do nothing wrong.

I've owned two Blackburn EX-1s. I foolishly sold one with the matching kid's seat, but the other has seen near daily commuting use for five years. I love everything about it, with one exception: it has no place to mount a rear tail light. It's light, made from bar stock rather than tubes, and despite constant heavy use, it has held up great. I've used it for a bit of bike-packing as well and have probably exceeded the 40lb max many times without issue.

I also unfortunately own this POS. I bought it to replace the EX-1 I sold and it is not worth even half the $25 I paid for it. It's constructed from tubes instead of bar stock and has the wide, flat plate on top. As a result, it bangs and clangs with every single bump. It was on my wife's bike for a while, and she could sometimes be heard from half a block away. It also mounts using aluminum spacers, resulting in a less solid rack that can sway and jiggle (just a little) when loaded. The tubes are thick enough that some panniers aren't able to be mounted without modification. The only good thing about it is that I can mount a taillight to the little tab that hangs off the back.

For rear racks, the #1 thing I would look for is one constructed from bar stock. Tubes simply make too much noise. I would avoid the flat plate on top as well unless you're buying from a B&M store where you can bang your hand on the rack to see how much noise it makes. Mount points on the rear for a taillight would be a huge plus. If Blackburn made one like the EX-1 with a mount, I'd buy one in a heartbeat. Aluminum is obviously lighter than steel and perfectly OK for your uses; most of the steel ones are intended for long-haul touring where they can be welded if they break. Look for a rack that can mount without spacers for a more secure attachment.

I own this Nashbar front rack, which seems to be a clone of this Blackburn rack. For the price, it's worth it, but I had to modify mine to fit 35mm knobby tires. I also needed spacers to mount it, which the rack did not come with. My fork has mount points in the middle of the blades, so I can't comment on how well it mounts using the U clamps.

I've never used a front rack that holds the panniers up higher, but I'd be hesitant to buy one (unless it could be returned at no cost) without trying it first. The lower the load, the lower your center of gravity. Having a higher center of gravity can change your handling dramatically. I would also be extremely hesitant to buy a front rack that did not have a cross bar for stability (like this one). My first time out using the front rack, I put my floppier set of panniers up front, and my handling was so bad it was dangerous. I swapped them, learned my lesson, and wouldn't dare set out with any load in the front that could possibly sway.

No way 700c would fit.

I replaced the pads in the back and it's all good now, will do the front later so brakes are taken care of. I will probably get a SS chainring 48+ teeth for the front. Cleaned up the derailleur and its much better now, but I still gotta get it tuned by a shop (shifts great but skips 5 and 8)

Also, since my rear rack is taped on right now I was looking at getting this. From reviews a fender should fit underneath it. I've got the hole between the seat stays to mount a fender, but do you know of one that fits on disc brakes?

I haven't been able to find a rigid fork that has the correct axle to crown length, from what I've researched mine is 480mm and would shoot for a ~450mm fork. Would I need to get a 700c wheel and smaller fork to offset it? After that I'd look into a different handlebar or better bar ends, as the ones on it are 10 pounds and from a huffy.

Thanks for the help all, looks like I can salvage this.


This is my bike on bikepedia

I've had the bike for a few weeks now and use it almost entirely for commuting. Here's what I've added since I got the bike:

• GoPro Hero3 Black
  
  
• NiteRider Lumina Micro 350 front and rear
  
  
• Nite Ize HandleBand
  
  
• Tektro CR720 Canti Brakes
  
  
• Ibera PakRak Bicycle Touring Carrier Plus+
  
  
• Avenir Excursion Rack-Top Bag
  
  
• SKS P45 Black Chromoplastic Longboard
  
  
• SRAM Supercork Bicycle Bar Tape (Black)
  
  
• Shimano Brake Cable and Housing Set
  
  
• Shimano Road Shift Cable and Housing Set
  
  The stock brakes weren't doing enough to stop me so I swapped them out for some Tektro CR720s. I dropped the yoke as far as I could to give myself as much leverage as possible. Braking is much better now and more reliable than the original set ever was.
  
  I added a rack and trunk bag that's big enough to hold my food and clothes for the day. The only modification I had to make here was filing away some metal from rack mounting leg. It was colliding with frame near the dropout and not allowing the leg to sit close enough to the braze on.
  
  Some of the original cable housings that came with the bike had some gouges in them so Nashbar sent me a new replacement cable set. I swapped out all the brake/shift cables and replaced the bar tape with some SRAM cork tape. The original cables from Nashbar were also a bit too long and were causing excessive friction.
  
  I added some SKS fenders per the recommendations of users on this sub. They were a little finicky to install but I got them on in the end. This particular frame doesn't have bolt holes in either of the two rear bridges so I had to resort to the classic zip tie approach.
  
  As far as the bike goes, it's been performing flawlessly so far. It weighs close to 30 lbs now so it's not the lightest thing in the world. However, the steel frame and the large tires really help smooth out the road quite a bit. The saddle is still the most uncomfortable part of the bike, but I'm hoping to swap it out sometime in the near future. Shifting is still very smooth and the 4 trim positions on the 105 front derailleur is a great feature.
  
  If you're considering getting a bike from Nashbar, I'd definitely recommend them. Their customer service was fantastic and everything they shipped usually got to me door in 2-3 days (even the bike!).

Just be careful and dont get a beach cruiser!!!!! id recommend a hybrid bike like a trek 7.1 and put a rack on it for panniers so you can carry your stuff. Also if you are over weight i highly recommend a brooks saddle i have a b17 and its wonderful on my ass. Also bike shorts 4.3 miles aint long, but it will make your life much easier. A cheap walmart bike will break often and be expensive to repair. Refer over to r/bicycling to learn more if you are strapped for cash id go with this bike its a good all rounder and bikesdirect is a good company, or a trek and the seat brooks b17 bike rack panniers shorts
Once again do not buy a bike from walmart it will make you hate bicycling. Oh also rules and sheldon brown a repository of all things cycling
Best of luck to you, safe riding and Dont buy this!!

Balance that against the thought of a car turning right after you pass because he didn't expect the trailer. I think both options have their downsides.

My wife and I used the rack seats. We liked it because it put them close enough to us that we could talk. One of the big downsides is that it puts a lot of extra weight high up on the bike and it really messed up the handling on my road bike. I had to lower my saddle and raise my handlebars to compensate. The Blackburn Co-Pilot comes with a functional rack (as opposed to several others that have a rack, but that can't be used for anything other than attaching the seat) and is really easy to install.

I only used a rented trailer once. I really liked the stability. The big downsides to me were that the kids were too far away to talk and that it was a lot heavier to haul. Friends that use them really like them for the extra hauling capacity that they have...makes trips to the grocery store via bicycle with the kids possible.

Edit: If you want to try both options, I have a CoPilot seat you can have for the price of shipping, if you're interested. You'll need your own rack, though (I love mine too much to part with it). This is the one the seat fits.

Yeah sorry I forgot about your no brazon / p-clamp requirement.

They have a lot of options. I chose the Explorer rack which was much lighter than my other two rear racks.

I am considering buying one of their Beamracks for my road bike without the side frame add-on so I can use my bag for weekend rides as well.

Some other things I considered were not as functional, were more expensive, but looked much better. They don't exactly match your requirements, but maybe they'll give you some ideas.

• Carradice Camper with the Bagman Expedition Support which meets your requirements, except for price.
  
• Sackville Saddlesacks
  
• Minnehaha Saddle Bag
  
  The one I had before the Topeak one was a Racktime Wall-it with a Snapit rack. I really like it, but I just needed to carry more stuff. The Snapit system is nice and works with the Ortlieb trunk bag as well. I got it really cheap on Sierra Trading post. You can even buy the Snapit adapter by itself to make the system work with any bag you like.
  
  Hope you find something that works well for you.

I recently bought a Giant Escape 2 for commuting from Arlington to Downtown DC and it works great, I got the bike and lock for less than $500. If you want to look at bikes, Papillion Bicycles is the local Giant dealer and Spokes etc. is one of the local Trek and Specialized dealers. You can go and ride the bikes and see what you like, but at that price point almost all the hybrid bikes are the same.

After that I got a Topeak rear rack with this Trunk Bag and it works great, fits my computer, clothes and even lunch. It has side panniers that fold out. I would recommend that you get some cygolite front and rear lights from amazon as well.

If you're serious about commuting, something along these lines is your best bet.

[Here is my setup] (http://imgur.com/gallery/IBw0q)

Edit: Word

Hard to say but looks like the seatpost is aluminum. In either case, carbon is very strong and would be able to handle a seatpost rack. Those racks are pretty good but just have a lower weight limit because adding items to those rack create a torque sorta like a cantilever beam. There are ones that clamp on the seatpost but also have connections to the seatstays which allows you to have a higher weight limit.

West Biking Universal Adjustable Equipment Stand Footstock Bicycle Carrier Rack with Reflective Logo, 110 lb Capacity, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154OMGIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qaLzzbK4JCAF6 one like this.

P-clamps are a great solution for attaching a rack when you don't have eyelets.

Here's an excellent article (with helpful photos) on how to install a rack with p-clamps: http://www.bikecommuters.com/2008/07/19/p-clamps-are-your-friends/

Here's a good breakdown and Nitto branded p-clamp from Rivendell Bikes: https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-band-clamps-pair?variant=23336804161

Attach at the upper eyelets and then use 2 p-clamps (one on each side) to attach the lower points of the rack. Once you have your p-clamps, then any rear rack will do depending on your needs - I use the non-disc version of this (link to the disc brake version): https://smile.amazon.com/Ibera-Bike-Rack-Frame-Mounted-Adjustable/dp/B002T5H8MW?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2 which is great and affordable (under $30).

I know zero about riding in the snow but will say that in general you can commute on any bike and its best to just start riding. The knobby tires certainly shouldn't hurt in the snow.

Rear racks are a bit tricky for mountain bikes and there are not a whole lot of good options. One option is the style that mounts on the seat post (see link below). In my opinion they are heavy, kind of clunky and I have never seen one that isn't loose and flopping around, however, some folks seem to like them. Depending on what you want to carry you may want to look into a frame bag or a seat bag.

https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Seatpost-mounted-Commuter-Carrier/dp/B002T5GHNI/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImNiR7dG75QIVBNvACh1Uwww6EAAYASAAEgL2IPD_BwE&hvadid=198228759260&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032294&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6150622066045943072&hvtargid=kwd-324685841740&hydadcr=2429_9914336&keywords=rear+rack+for+mountain+bike&qid=1572151840&sr=8-10

Ouch, that must have put quite the damper on Christmas.

It sucks that locks are so heavy. If you primarily ride it to one place, maybe you can leave the lock there?

Here's the rack I've been using. I like that their bags have an easy clip system. Rad Rovers old rack looks nice if their options are taken advantage of. Hopefully their 2019 rack is the same or better.

If looks like the Rad Rover has the same controller and motor that's on my bike, which means if you ever need a new battery, you might as well convert it to a 52V system, which should increase output and top speed. Other than the battery, I think the only other thing you might need is a new dash.

If your Revenio 1.0 is anything like my Capri 1.0, you may want to try looking into a rack like the Axiom Streamliner Road DLX since it puts the rack a bit farther back and gives you another 4cm of clearance. As /u/ChariotOfFire mentioned, the chainstay looks pretty short and my Raleigh has a very small chainstay as well.

As for bags, I've got some Arkel Cargo panniers. I went to the nearest LBS and they were the cheapest option (the LBS is tiny, so limited stock) and only recently found out that they're intended for front racks. :p Oops. They work well enough though, hah.

Good luck!

These are great suggestions.

I did find a nice rear rack that attaches to the seatpost and a flatbed trailer I really liked.

It's funny, my main reason for going rigid on the forks was to save weight, but here I am adding significant weight.

I think it I will likely try a different, more comfortable saddle, fenders, tires, and I may go with some sort of handlebar set up that gives me a better angle when riding. Long rides on the bike as it is now tend to make my lower back stiff/sore.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Explorer-Bicycle-Brake-Mounts/dp/B000FIAVHE/

Would be better.

That mountain bike looks like it has braze-ons at the top of the chain stays and a few inches up from the axle (or at least looks like) that are there for racks and fenders. It should be compatible with a wide range of rear racks.

Taking advantage of those hard mount points will allow you to use a rack that is much stronger, more rigid, and feel like much more of a part of the bike. Seat-clamp style racks tend to bounce around more, wiggle around easier, and will tend to scrape of the paint and such things.

That Topeak explorer is just a example of that particular style. It's mid-high expensive for racks go, but it does look pretty robust and has a 66 pound weight rating.

It’s certainly possible, but I wouldn’t recommend cheeping out, especially on the rack. I got one of these types of things and it lasted a couple weeks before bolts started coming out. I held it together with zip ties for a while then tossed it and got a better one. Another $10 or $20 and you can get a more solid one.

The cheaper bags seems to be fine. The difference with the more expensive ones I upgraded to is waterproofness and fitting a little better to the rack.

https://www.amazon.com/West-Biking-Universal-Adjustable-Reflective/dp/B0154OMGIK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=bike+rack+pannier&qid=1557981996&s=gateway&sprefix=bike+rack+pan&sr=8-5

I am not, and didn't realize that I should. I know that it seemed a little floppy, but I was trusting in the hitch. I do have some straps, so I think now I will add a strap to the trunk. Thanks.

My bikes are hybrid with no fenders, but I do have one of these bike trunk racks. I didn't think about how those arms might need a clear tire. Thanks for that as well.

I was about to pull the trigger on a Kilo TT for commuting ($400 SingleSpeed), but I waited about a week instead and found a used Torelli Tipo Uno for $200 I bought instead. I too am a 6'5" so the bikes do show up, don't lose hope! I highly recommend using http://www.searchtempest.com/ so you can search your surrounding Craigslist's too (provided you have available transportation to get to nearby cities, the bike I found was 80 miles from me, but well worth the trip!).

Edit: You could maybe go for something along the lines of this CAAD8 and slap an Axiom Streamliner on that bad boy if you're not planning on carrying a TON for your commute.
If you want something more commuter'y here's another option, they do exist! :D

That said, if you do want a BikesDirect bike I have heard a lot of good things about the Motobecane Grand Record

That's definitely a steal. Have heard good things about these Tubus racks.

However, anyone have experience with an Ibera PakRak:

http://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Touring-IB-RA4-Frame-mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1458744660&sr=8-4&keywords=tubus+rack

Looks like a good deal. I'm looking for a rear rack that can accept panniers.

Right now, I have this Topeak Explorer rack on my Schwinn Varsity:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FIE3WI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

My bike is a commuter but I am planning on taking it on some short weekend / week-long tours this summer, hopefully going for a month long tour at the tail end of summer.

Thanks for any insight, everyone! Cheers!

I have a Blackburn EX-1 on one bike so I can use the Blackburn bicycle seat:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZIQMCC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a Topeak SuperTourist on my commuter, it's heavy but I like being able to fit my Topeak top bag with a couple of panniers when needed. I think the BadBoy 2 has mount points just above the axle.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ZKHN6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used a little clamp thing to attach the two front straps to the seatpost, worked fine. They don't really hold any weight, just stability. Something like this or this.

Well, I use my standard entry level road bike for pretty much everything. It's a 2015 Felt F95 Sora which has been treating me really well. I have around 7,000 Km on it.




For touring, especially for carrying stuff, I wanted something sturdy and cheap so I went with this rack and this easy clip-in bag. The bag is really great as it can easily come off the rack and double as a shoulder carry bag. There's another small saddle bag (Standard) for tools and spares. Additionally, I had 10L cycling backpack (Not in the picture). If you have any other questions, ask away.

Edit: Grammar

>Cheap rack

Obviously, your budget will limit your options, but I'd say that of all components, if you're going to get one thing that's a bit nicer than the rest, get a reliable rack. You probably don't need a 150$ expedition touring rack, but getting a 45$ blackburn (actually, you can get a pretty good used one of these on Craigslist if you look) instead of a the cheapest you can find, you'll save a lot of trouble.

When I used to have really shitty racks, they were the one thing that managed to break every time I rode and caused endless trouble on the road.

And, for the love of God, do not buy this piece of junk!

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but any idea how to tell the difference on Amazon between ones that attach with QR Axel vs braze-ons? These are what I found that looked correct-ish and I don't see the word braze-on anywhere on any of them. :-/

• https://www.amazon.com/Minoura-Gamoh-KCL-1-Carrier-Front/dp/B003JZIF5K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525295198&sr=8-4&keywords=king+carrier
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Minoura-Carrier-Front-Basket-Large/dp/B003RLLD2I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525295198&sr=8-5&keywords=king+carrier
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Minoura-Junior-Gamoh-KCM-2-Carrier/dp/B003JZMC0E/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1525295198&sr=8-6&keywords=king+carrier
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Gamoh-KCL-3F-Carrier-Bicycle-Front/dp/B006I9PZ70/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1525295198&sr=8-7&keywords=king+carrier
  
  Thanks again for your time and help! I really appreciate it especially since you're the only one here!

I purchased a Bike Valet and it works fine for one bike. They are only right or left oriented and work for larger tubing (my vintage steel bike don't work with it). This must be installed into a stud or concrete/brick wall to work properly.

I recently purchased a another rack in order to store two more bikes. It surprisingly works well - but not for mixtes bikes like I was hoping. It says it can hold 3 bikes, but you'd either need 10 foot ceilings and a ladder next to it always or one those must be a kids bike. The cool thing about this is that you don't have to drill into the wall.

Check etsy.com / kickstarter.com for bicycle mounts/storage - there are tons of ideas and different ways to do so for you.

It looks like there are eyelets for rack mounts so any rack like this should work https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T5H8MW/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bEHOX_g468_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=ZWM7T83HJTAQ5WKKA7WP&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=4fa95ac1-9313-504c-a40b-72e9b9823f04&pf_rd_i=3403461

Panniers are can be a bit more 'sized'. Are your boots high tops? I'm thinking something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ET9W146/ref=abs_brd_tag_dp?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Full disclosure I have a Blackburn rear rack and some large drawstring top Jaand panniers I found used.

Looking to get a rear cargo rack so I can carry two grocery bags on the side. Planning to get baskets like this.

Adopted a bike from someone else, size M, which lists the frame as 54.5cm by 54cm (around 21 inches). Does that mean a rack like this for 26"-29" frames is too big?

Any suggests would be fantastic. Thanks!

totally hear you on not wanting to bolt anything to your road bike, but i commuted 20 miles a day with one of these and some bungee cords for like 3 years. so much better than a backpack.

> And really its been a long time since I've had one of those holy shit I actually reaaaallly enjoy this moments

riding is pretty zen for me as well. haven't had time to do long rides lately and definitely miss it.

It's a great feature (although you don't mount the panniers at an angle, the upper rail is always parallel to the ground, but it does solve the heel clearance issue). I've seen a few other panniers that allow a similar sort of adjustment. For example, these (if you're in Canada). The alternative is to get a rack that has a setback like these axiom's. They let you mount the pannier's further back and away from swinging heels.

Having said that, my wife is really happy with her ortlieb city rollers and the adjustability fixed a problem with her last set.

The rack is an axiom streamliner road rack, it's very narrow so it wouldn't be suitable for carrying anything on top but is fine for mounting the panniers on the side. The front mounts on to the bolt that holds the calipers in place and the rear is set back a couple of inches from the axle with a steel plate to give better heel clearance.

It is strong enough for commuting with a moderate load but If I would go for something with a more sturdy design if I was planning on carrying heavy loads.

Well then you'll need a rack capable of holding panniers. I'm going to assume you're looking to go as economically as possible (I'm a Surly Nice Rack man).

You'll want something like the Ibera. Looks like Amazons got them on backorder though, maybe check eBay.

With panniers, quality costs. I use Ortliebs and Axioms. You don't want to be to cheap here. Pick what you can afford, that meets your size requirements.

I've always been a bit sketchy loading laptops and cameras into my panniers. I prefer using my Citizen messenger or VeloTransit pack for them and leave the other stuff in the panniers. Gets most of the weight off my back.

I am a big fan of hybrids for the type of riding you describe. They can also handle mild unpaved surfaces. Test ride the Specialized Sirrus, Giant Escape, Cannondale Quick, and Fuji Absolute. Those 4 all price closely at each spec level. There are many other brands with models in that class too depending on the bike shops near you (Marin, Jamis, Kona, Felt, Scott). Shop convenience and service quality should be factors in your decision.

I'd recommend getting at least an 8 speed in the rear. It's easy to upgrade later and has smaller jumps between gears. Rim vs. disc brakes are up to you. If you don't plan on riding in foul weather, rim brakes are good enough and give you a very convenient front rack option.

If you're going to be commuting you should look at getting fenders (SKS are good) and a rear rack and pannier bag (you're better off letting the bike carry your stuff; you won't get a sweaty back from a backpack). I'd also probably recommend a chainguard (which lets you ride in jeans/regular trousers without worrying about ripping the shit out of the cuffs).

You need eyelets that would be located on the back of the frame. For the most part, he will be stuck riding with a backpack when riding that bike. It's possible that you could get this Ibera rack that will fit onto the seat post but you will need to raise the seat post and take off the reflector and replace that with a bike light. IMO get him a better commuter that could have a sturdier rack and carry more weight that is mounted to the frame instead of the seat post. A good beginner bike would be a Giant Escape 2 or 3
https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Seatpost-mounted-Commuter-Carrier/dp/B002T5GHNI/ref=pd_sbs_468_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002T5GHNI&pd_rd_r=CVHQBP7NSBBDP1EN6BS3&pd_rd_w=O9VLc&pd_rd_wg=cWUf5&psc=1&refRID=CVHQBP7NSBBDP1EN6BS3

We've had one of these for 4+ years. Looks great and is very sturdy. Can even hold up to 4 bikes with additional attachments if you get more bikes. Bonus that you don't need to put any holes in the wall or ceiling.

You have three options:

• shim the attachment point out until the support does not interfere
  
• bend the support until it does not interfere
  
• get a rack with narrower tubular supports. It looks like all Topeak racks use those same flat supports, but I have an Ibera with tubular supports similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-IB-RA4-Non-Disc-Frame-Mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/

Justhavingacoffe, I'd be super interested how you have made the Topeak work.


DuranDourand, thanks for the pic, that's exactly the problem I ran into.

Just to double check, this is the rack you've used, correct?

http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Disc-Cycle-Black/dp/B004094HY2

Thank you?

I highly recommend a rack + panniers. I just switched from using a backpack to a rack + panniers on my commute and it's MUCH nicer.

I got these:
https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Touring-IB-RA4-Frame-mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473272148&sr=8-1&keywords=bike+rack+and+panniers

and
https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-IB-BA8-Bike-Panniers/dp/B0044U8W3E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473272148&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+rack+and+panniers

For less than $100 bucks you'll be much more comfortable.

Buy a rack made for road bikes without rack mounts. The best cheap one is this: https://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Road-DLX-Racks/dp/B003UWESMQ

The best expensive one is the Tubus Fly Classic plus the Tubus QR mount kit. It will cost 3-4 times as much as the Axiom.

First thought: seems a lot like the Topeak Explorer series of bike racks. The QuickLock system works great; I have a bag that uses it. Hopefully this succeeds, so Topeak releases more QuickLock-compatible stuff and also brings costs down.

You can always get a front rack and then attach whatever size basket you want. There are a ton of smaller sized metal baskets that you would use in a kitchen, for instance, that could be useful.

If you have v brake mounts, this rack https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Gold-Front-Rack-Black/dp/B002MKHR6G/ref=pd_bxgy_468_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002MKHR6G&pd_rd_r=220633cb-e138-11e8-9996-bd5c2b1c099d&pd_rd_w=zU6Sk&pd_rd_wg=5tfTR&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=N2MR0EK7WNKM1RS7KVVA&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=N2MR0EK7WNKM1RS7KVVA is surprisingly inexpensive and strong.

I use the linked rack with a wald basket zip-tied to it on one of my bikes and haven't had a problem, even with some considerably weight loads. Imgur

what should you know about saddle bags? Buy a topeak MTX quicktrack rack and the expandable EXP bag This system is too amazing to describe. Small bag for short trips, unfolds into full pannier setup. Securely fastening it to your bike in under 10 seconds is a dream compared to conventional veclro/bungee systems. Both of these together will be over your $80 budget for your helmet/lock/bag but it's well worth it. I'll never use another bag/rack again. The rack is also lighter than the cheaper rack I was using before.

Yeah a good rack and panniers will go a long way. I picked one of these up on sale for $20 bucks, and matched it with one of the MTX bags. Super convenient for commuting, since you barely notice the weight when it's over your back wheel.

I put an Ibera Rack on my BikesDirect CX Bike without issues. I used the one for disk brakes. It can be installed at different angles, and I've never had a rattle or a squeak from it. I liked the way the Ibera looked, and it works well with its companion bags.

I only have the one bag, so the bike was unbalanced at a stand-still, but I really liked it. It has a shower-cap bag stowed in a bottom pocket for when it rains. I managed to put two 2-liters and my personal and work laptops in the one bag once. It was tight, but fit.

The TOPEAK bags and racks are much more popular, for sure.

If you have serious trouble with the screws squeaking, you can use split-washers to hold tension on them.

Good catch. This one, then. And yes, on the seatpost clamp. Lots of them for like $5 from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ZKHN6Y/

Used this for everything from touring to grocery trips, been great so far. Definitely recommended. Also look into Old Man Mountain racks if you'd like some more options.

Thanks man! I love your living room! Here is the bike rack if you're interested.

That's pretty much how I started my 2 mile commute in 2015. I went reading and bought the Wirecutter's reccommendation at the time, a Trek 7.2 (though I did go for the 2014 7.4 Disc, since my shop had it on a good sale). I added fenders and a kickstand immediately, grabbed a cheap (but safe) Wal-Mart helmet and lights, and started riding when the weather was decent. As I needed them, I added elastic, reflective ankle bands to keep my jeans out of the chain, got a set of decent gloves for cooler weather, a rear rack and expandable trunk bag, upgraded my lights, and bought a cheap bike computer from Aldi.
 
After a few years, I had a better idea of what I really wanted, so last fall I sold the hybrid and picked up a gravel bike to get off the 50mph highway and onto the gravel shoulder and replaced my helmet with a more comfortable and better ventilated one. I moved over the rear rack, bought new, larger fenders and a kickstand, but didn't bother with the computer and just got a handlebar phone mount since I track everything on Strava anyways.
 
Of course I don't NEED all of this to bike commute, but it makes it easier/more comforable/etc. to do so. The only thing I've regretted is the fancy gloves: they work just fine, but I could have spent half the money and gotten something just as well suited to my needs. Thankfully I'm in an area with basically no bike theft, so I just use a cheap cable lock on the rare times I even bother to lock it up.

Does that light work with the Cateye rack mount?

If not, I use a Cygolite Hotshot with the Cygolite rack mount which works really well. The Cygolite is great bang for your buck.

Something like this; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AUY2OWW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1YDUCHVSJ2MEV&coliid=IW5GT4VKSC3B9

Which can attach to any bike whether or not there's mounts, just don't go crazy with putting too much weight on there.

Panniers are a good option for the sides, and I just use a roll top dry bag that I bungee to the top of the rack along with a tent and sleeping pad. Just put your toiletries in a big ziplock, roll your clothes that you decide to bring tightly, aaaand put an extra set of water bottle cages somewhere on your bike.

What I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TM96MM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Simple, doesn't require any wall attachment (I'm also renting - no wall rehab upon move-out), gentle on the bikes, and looks pretty cool.

I just got an Ibera rack and put on my new Radrover this week and had no issues. I used 3-in-1 oil for all the bolts since it said to lube them all. You also need an extension cable to wire up the brake light which I didn't think about at first. I found the cable on Amazon and you need the 600mm blue 4 pin connector. Confirmed the pin and cable type on the Bolton eBikes website along with reviews for the cable on Amazon using it for the same thing. Looks lovely ke the cable ships from China so takes a while for delivery.

This rack supports 55 pounds which was the only requirement I had since I needed it for the Hamax Caress child seat. I searched all over and read through all sorts of forums and didn't find any options for a front rack so I just ordered the front rack straight from Rad Power Bikes themselves.

Ibera Bike Rack - Bicycle Touring Carrier Plus+ for Disc Brake Mounts

BAFANG Extension Cable with the 4 Pin Plug

Werd, pretty much any rack will work if the brake is inside rear triangle.
If brake is mounted on back of the dropout, you need a disc specific rack.
There are two main types: the kind that is just spaced much wider, like this:
http://www.topeak.com/products/racks/explorertubularrack_discmount
And the kind that is set back further, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Disc-Cycle-Black/dp/B004094HY2
The set back kind gives you more heel clearance for panniers. But also mounts weight further back... tradeoffs.

Axiom DLX Streamliner Disc Cycle Rack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004094HY2/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_vJW0CbMTNBN21

​

Installed super easily. I'm only using it for fairly light loads. 15in laptop and a change of clothes (no shoes). If I was really going to load it up I'd probably change the top mount to one that clamps the seatpost.

If you get it for free, and no fenders, rack and want them, I recommend to take it to a local bike shop (LBS) and make sure everything is in working order. I'd darn make sure that the brake pads are good. Moving is one thing but I'd really like to be able to stop well.

At a LBS, ask about fenders and rack. They aren't that expensive and let them install if you are not sure.


If you want to do it by yourself, there are million options on-line. Since it's a classic roadie, if I were you, I'd get a handsome bike's 35mm fenders and Aixom Streamliner rack.

I cannot tell from the pic. Are there eyelets on the front fork and rear dropout? If so, it's a piece of case to install by yourself. If not, your option is rather limited. Prob. SKS race blade is the only option but streamliner rack would still work with the axle adapter.

Lol, thats the exact trailer that I have. I saw a rack on Amazon that looks like it's going to work. I guess I shouldnt really worry about bags till I have a decent rack. What do you think about this one? It's going on a mountain bike http://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Touring-IB-RA4-Frame-mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=pd_sbs_sg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=15ERRXQWVPB797C5PFR2

After consulting with this subreddit I went with a topeak rear rack and a wald wire basket. I secured the basket to the rack with four Nite Ize gear ties and it feels really secure.

I was looking for a cheaper option than buying all of the matching baskets and panniers that go with the topeak rear rack. I have a limited budget to spend on new bike gear each paycheck, so i'm slowly buying new items.

Today was the first ride without my backpack on my back. It was definitely an interesting feeling. I felt super light, but the back of the bike was weighed down.

Any comments or suggestions?

I bought one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YU2DU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Works great and looks nice.

It's a great stand and very sturdy. 100% recommend. Feedback Sports Velo Cache 2 Bike Storage Rack.

It's this one here we had to slightly modify it because of our height. But we are very happy with it! My parents got it for us over the holidays.

Shaving 20 minutes off that time should be no problem, you only need to average 4 more miles and hour. Stick with it. I started commuting to work 6 miles each way about 3 weeks ago and it's awesome. Here's some stuff that'll make your ride more pleasant, if your bike doesn't already have these:

• $28 for a rack.
  
• $25 for panniers to go on the rack.
  
• Fenders to keep you drier
  
  Also, I'll vouch that cycling is possible in any weather, if you dress for it. I've gone mountain biking in December in Denver, and not just once.
  
  
  Also also - don't think of it as taking 20 more minutes, think of it as an hour workout that only takes you 20 minutes :)

I have a frame that goes between floor and ceiling, and it has the benefit of being quite aesthetically pleasing.

• GearUp Rack
  
  I bought it after lusting seeing it set up in another redditor's post on /r/AmateurRoomPorn.

I got this rack off of amazon, and used some old panniers that my dad had.

As for fenders, just go to your LBS and they will set you up. I honestly don't know what kind of fenders that I have, but hey, they work.

My commute is pretty short, a little over 2 miles each way, and I have never had any issues with it.

I would consider mounting a rear rack using a P-Clamp. I assume you're saying it is difficult to install a rack/panniers because there are no eyelets to attach a rack to on the upper seat stays. However, the P-Clamp solution see here for more details, is an easy DIY fix. If you don't like it, you can remove it without any damage to the bike and do your trade in. P-Clamps are incredibly inexpensive at any hardware store and racks like this are plentiful online for not very much.

If you have any questions, feel free to DM me.

I HATE seatpost racks. The problem is with only 1 attachment point, they tend to swing around behind you a little. They also don't carry much.

They do make racks for bikes without rack mounts though.

A cheaper one is the Axiom Streamliner Disc:
http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Disc-Cycle-Black/dp/B004094HY2/

A lighter but more expensive one (that is designed to be a rack solution on full carbon bikes as well as others) is the BONTRAGER BACKRACK LIGHTWEIGHT:
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/cycling-accessories/bike-racks/bontrager-backrack-lightweight/p/08214

They both work the same way - at the top they attach under the rear brake bridge. At the bottom they attach via the wheel skewer, putting the weight of anything on the rack right onto the wheel axel (same place your bodyweight goes).

P.S. I see someone else said something similar and mentioned some of these racks below as well.

This is actually a pretty good rack that I've done a 3-day tour and a 6-day tour on with my roadie. The Seymour 45 panniers let me hold a tent, a sleeping bag, and a bunch of other various items.

Late to the party, but if you're looking for a reasonably priced rear rack, I'd recommend the Topeak Super Tourist rack; the DX version is made for disc brakes.

It has side bars that let you mount your panniers low and farther back (which helps avoid heel strike) and lets you use a trunk bag simultaneously. It also has Topeak's MTX system, which lets you use their excellent MTX bags (super-fast, secure and convenient attachment and removal).

Note that it's made of aluminum (as opposed to steel), so it may not be the choice for multi-month tours with super-heavy loads. That said, I've used mine for four years on several weeklong tours and regular commutes to work, and it has handled everything I've thrown on it with no problems.

I use this in a garage with tight space. Works well enough for me. You might want some that stack vertically like this if you're really tight on space. You may be able to come up with a 3d printable design of a rack like this

Any rack should do, you will just have it sit higher. You can also get adjustable height tack like this one.

​

Edit: this one has a better adjustment for top connection.

A bicycle carrier rack would make my morning commute to school a lot easier.

Thanks!

Ok, I assume you have a very, very low budget so here are some options for you:

• Find someones couch to crash on for now. Preferably someone with an internet connection
  
• Build some Kitty Litter Panniers for now or a back pack (you will regret only having a back pack) ($15-$30) - see if you can make 4 of them provided you can take a front rack. Two if you can not.
  
• Get a camping hammock with a rain fly or a bivy tent (I have no ideas if either of those are good, I'm just going cheap) ($50-90)
  
• Get a sleeping pad ($30)
  
• Get two racks if your bike can take them. One for the front and one for the back ($60)
  
• Get a small tarp (I am sure you can find better than this, perhaps even locally) for those days with REALLY bad weather. ($7)
  
• Get a pancho or other cheap rain gear ($15)
  
• Get some bungee cords ($5)
  
• Get camping pans ($15)
  
• Get a lighter ($0.50)
  
• You could build a camping stove but I can't vouch for how well these work. You might want a proper one ($5-$50)
  
• Get a pump (follow the recommendations others have made) $20-$50
  
• Get a tool kit and some spare parts (I really like the Survival Gear Box) $50-75
  
  So maybe $275-375 total cost before food and water? Man, that's still high...

I commute daily with a Topeak Rack + Trunk Bag. I fit my clothes, lunch, and 15" Macbook. Trunk bag slides off and has shoulder strap to carry it around.

$120 for both is well worth it. Skip the beers for a couple weekends and get one

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FIE3WI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000FIE3WI&linkCode=as2&tag=dealstoponlin-20&linkId=2JAH4AZ7ZJYSADXV

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ZKES0S/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000ZKES0S&linkCode=as2&tag=dealstoponlin-20&linkId=E5J7UOMYPKLW7FO6

I've got the Topeak MTX Explorer - Note if you have disc brakes get this one instead

and Topeak MTX EXP with zip down panniers

The bag slides into the track on top of the rack and snaps in place. Panniers fold up into the sides of the bag when not in use. Total cost for both, about $130.

On my old steel touring bike that came with racks I use Swiss army bread bags as panniers. They look nice, and are cheap!

There's this. I put it on my budget beater shopping bike because I wanted something to securely zip tie that shallow plastic crate to. It was working well but as I got more daring with loading up the front, the tab attaching it to the fork crown eventually broke so I replaced it with a piece of cheap flat steel that I bent into shape and drilled a couple holes to fit. Realizing the amount of weight I wanted to carry was going to be too much for those 3 anchor points, I decided to rig up some Wald basket struts between the front axle to the front of that small rack. Now I'm able to haul upwards of 20 lbs up front. I realize I could have simply ordered a Wald front basket but I prefer the shallow edges, look and fit of that plastic crate. The shallow Wald "pizza delivery" style rack sits too high up and is anchored to the handlebars. This puts my load lower over the wheel and gives me room to stack taller items without blocking my view.

Cygolite makes an adapter you attach on your rack and the light clips right onto it. I bought one last week, it works great. I got mine off Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VUB0Q8

what up - check this thing out, it would be pretty much exactly what you need, and it would totally hold a milk crate (even though cheap panniers beat milk crate 10/10); https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AUY2OWW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_img?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1YDUCHVSJ2MEV&coliid=IW5GT4VKSC3B9

And if you get a milk crate - get one from lowes or home depot for like $8 as they will be way more rugged than anything you get at wally world or target. There's always stories floating around about people getting busted with 'stolen' crates they snagged from behind a grocery store, so dont do that

I love single speed and wouldn’t mind coasting every now and then but it’s going to be my winter bike as well and I want the feel of how much traction I’m getting.

But anyways, I have a “Topeak Super Tourist Tubular Bicycle Trunk Rack DX with Side Bar for Disc Brake Bikes” and SKS Raceblade XL fenders. I used 1/2 inch p clamps. I honestly haven’t test ridden it with the rack on there yet but I’ll report back when I do. I’ll probably carry no more than 20 pounds at once though.

On my large size Giant Escape 3, I have a Topeak Explorer MTX: http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-63107030-Explorer-Bike-Rack/dp/B000FIE3WI
I didn't shop around much, though, that's just what the LBS had in stock.

I did the install myself and it was pretty straightforward. The only tricky part was that you have to bend the front rails of the rack down to meet up with the seatstay mounting bolts, and make sure the rails give clearance for the "noodle" part of the rear brake.

I have the same exact rack and attached Cygolite HotShot series with this. It only cost $5 and fits perfectly.

I recently got these. Love them.

Rack

Panniers

I’m partial to my Axiom Streamliner. It tapers towards the top so it keeps a slim profile. It’s offset towards the rear so heel strike is not an issue. It doesn’t have a very substantial “shelf” on top so you can’t really balance things on top of it unless it’s strapped down.

Overall, it just looks so good to me.

Take a look at this one. One of the things to look out for on road bikes without eyelets is that heel clearance is also shorter. This track mounts to the quick release and brake mount, plus moves the track back to provide more heel clearance when you’re panniers are on. They have a road version that just has a narrower platform on top but the dish version tends to get better reviews and has a normal sized platform for a crate, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Disc-Cycle-Black/dp/B004094HY2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=axiom+streamliner+disc+dlx+rear+rack&psc=1&qid=1572324935&sprefix=axiom+stre&sr=8-3

is there a specific keyword i should be using? or do i just have to find a lighter basket that just clamps to the handlebars?

i am trying to find a front basket that is at least 12x9.5 wide, but they all mount like the one above

i found this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MKHR6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A15MD58ELY2BCA&psc=1

could i use that plus the basket, just having the basket clamped to the handlebars and "resting" on the rack?

i am not planning on putting a lot of weight there, just food/grocery type stuff

I use one of these on my Trek, it mounts via the brake caliper screw and the rear wheel's skewer, so it will work on any road bike, and can actually support a good deal of weight.

This rack will work. Best $30 bucks you'll spend:

http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Road-Cycle-Black/dp/B0025UCXEO

I have this Topeak rack on my commuter bike: http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-63107030-Explorer-Bike-Rack/dp/B000FIE3WI

I particularly like this Topeak trunk bag that you can easily slide on and off the rack:
http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Trunk-rigid-molded-panels/dp/B000ZKHN50

I fitted the Pacer with an Axiom Streamliner Rack.
The rack sticks a few inches out of the rear axle to compensate for the short chainstay. It didn't solve heel strike and bike shimmy but it was a bit ambitious to expect the pacer to carry a load anyway.

Get a cargo rack for your smaller bag, and carry your bass on your back. Something along these lines maybe (might depend on what kind of bicycle you have): cargo rack

Keep in mind, if it's windy, the bass will act as a sail and destabilize you (or in a tailwind, maybe help!). The reason I point this out is that I carried my bass on my motorcycle once, and it was scary. Admittedly you probably won't be doing highway speeds on you bicycle, but it's something to be aware of.

Another possibility is using/adapting a surf rack so you don't need to have the bass on your back. That might be more comfortable overall. http://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/7716-the-best-surfboard-bike-racks-in-the-world

Sunlite makes a front rack that fits a six pack well. Throw a bungee over the pack and you're good to go.

You could also buy a growler cage if you buy your beer in bulk

Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Wald-Folding-Rear-Mounted-Basket/dp/B0073TQIOS

plus this:
http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Road-DLX-Racks/dp/B003UWESMQ

That's assuming your backpack will fit inside that basket.

I have a 26" Specialized mountain bike which I commute on, This is the Rack I purchased and is fantastic for its price.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA8GFSI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the panniers I purchased:

https://smile.amazon.com/BV-Panniers-Capacity-Detachable-Shoulder/dp/B01EVJBY3C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522038423&sr=8-1&keywords=bv+panniers&dpID=51MTm7TcjQL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I actually got them on Ebay brand new for about $30. If you search ebay you could find a similar or close deal.

So you can get a setup for about half your budget.

I just picked up one of these on REI w/ my 20% members coupon (still waiting on delivery) and I've heard a lot of good things.

There's these guys if you really want vertical standing. I'd been considering buying one for my office. I was concerned that the bike would fall forward if someone bumped it, though.

I have this on my Beast. It's perfect.

West Biking Universal Adjustable Equipment Stand Footstock Bicycle Carrier Rack with Reflective Logo, 110 lb Capacity, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154OMGIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QMXEzb8DQ38T9

I use a Topeak Super Tourist DX and couldn't be happier.

Axiom DLX Streamliner Disc Cycle Rack, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004094HY2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I was able to mount this rack to my cyclocross bike which also doesn’t have any mounting eyelets on it. It worked perfect for me by putting the quick release skewer through the lower mounting points.

And then for the upper mounting points, there are two different options it comes with. Two adjustable arms for bikes that have the normal threaded eyelets on the frame behind the seat. Or a metal arm that bolts to the mounting point for normal brakes.

If you want to use the two adjustable arm option, you can buy a seat clamp that has threaded mounting points in it. Here’s that.

Axiom Trekk Seat Collar w/Rack Eyelets, 31.8mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025UQ3I6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Here are some photos of my bike with both the rack and the threaded seat clamp.

https://imgur.com/gallery/5NFpk8M

Gear up bike rack in dark walnut : https://www.amazon.com/gearup-OakRak-Ceiling-Storage-Golden/dp/B000TM96MM/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=bike+stand+wood&qid=1571391795&sr=8-9

I bought it because in my previous place I couldn't drill the walls.

I saw it on reddit a 2 or 3 years ago but I can't remember in which sub/post.

If you are crafty and have access to tools, it can easily be done by yourself.

 

Found the reddit post from u/scottstedman

https://www.reddit.com/r/malelivingspace/comments/4vth36/moved_into_a_new_place_tried_to_make_it_cozy/

Most/any rack will likely be fine. I have a Topeak explorer tubular rack, it wasn't very costly and has held up well for the last four years or so I've been using it on my daily commutes.

Fenders: these or these

Rack: Axiom Transit

Lights: Front and tail. If you want a rack-mounted tail light: light and bracket.

Helmet: go to your LBS and try on a few. One-size-fits-all helmets are not as comfortable.

Other: I'd also recommend a puncture kit for when the inevitable happens. Tube, tire levers, CO2 inflator and cartridge.

All this talk of bicycles yesterday made me stop for a selfie on my commute this morning. I don't ride a motorcycle, so here's my 2-wheeled steed.

This is the pier a half-mile from my work, so 9.5 miles into my morning ride. It's warm enough here to bike in shorts and a jersey in January!

• Kona Honky Inc, steel-frame with carbon fork.
  
• Avid BB7 mechanical disc brakes.
  
• Ultegra/105 mash-up drivetrain with 105 shifters and Ultegra derailleurs.
  
• No rack braze-ons and disc brakes mean I had to hunt a bit for an appropriate rack. I chose not to go with the P-clip method and instead got this Axiom rack. Panniers are axiom as well.
  
• It's a short commute, so I often just do it in exercise shorts. Thinking of getting shorter running shorts, or moving to bicycling shorts, but this works fine for now. When it gets a bit colder I'll bike in jeans, but it's been a warm January.

Thanks for the reminder. It was such a whirlwind trying to get everything in BikeIndex and Garage529 and talking to the police that I forgot to put the details here.

For the Cannondale Synapse SE 105 Disc 2019 it is unfortunately a 2 month old bike so it doesn't have too much to distinguish it from a stock new bike. The only modifications that I did were reversible accessory additions like

• Shimano SPD PD-ED500 pedals
  
• gopro handlebar mount with the Cycliq Fly12 CE twist mount
  
• 2x black bottle holders
  
• Topeak Explorer Rack Without Spring with a Cycliq Fly6 camera mount attached
  
• cell phone holder on the stem
  
• Upstand bike stand
  
  The bike rack looks a little out of place compared to the rest of it as it is actually a little beat up from wear on a previous bike. It also sports a Cambridge Bicycle store sticker. Serial number MD21685
  
  For the Marin Fairfax SC4 Belt 2018 it is a little easier. It has a bike room sticker for EF Education first. It also has the same Topeak bike rack which is beat up from a car accident. The left rear side of the rack is bent in slightly. It also has one of the water bottle holders and has the normal Cycliq Fly12CE camera mount directly attached. The belt drive is also fairly unusual so I am hoping it stands out more. It also has a sticker for Farina's in Watertown and the serial number appears to be 041716870 MRN-111-01-190.

Does it have eyelets though?

edit: if it doesn't, you could try something like this

> I’m getting ready to launch a rear bike rack pannier

That's just called a rear bike rack. A pannier is the bag that goes onto a bike rack (more or less).

> Here's a picture of it

So you're selling the Ibera Bike Rack?

I have one of these - they can hold two bikes and look great. They work with tension between the floor and ceiling so you don’t need to drill holes:

gearup OakRak Floor to Ceiling Storage Rack, Golden Pecan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TM96MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mSxMDbNDDBT4H

Option A that goes against N+1: Crud roadracer 2 fenders and an Axiom Streamliner rack.

Option B: N+1 Cross bike/ light tourer/ randonneur. Unless your stem is slammed on a short headtube race geometry bike you should be able to replicate your current position on a new bike relatively easily. While considering N+1 also consider disc brakes and wider tires.

FWIW I used these every day all last summer without issue: https://smile.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Clip-on-Quick-Release-Panniers/dp/B009LNOXF0/ref=pd_sim_468_12?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009LNOXF0&pd_rd_r=HMXDHHDFM28KD6DMQ0RP&pd_rd_w=h5S82&pd_rd_wg=NeSH1&psc=1&refRID=HMXDHHDFM28KD6DMQ0RP

This rack: https://smile.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-IB-RA4-Non-Disc-Frame-Mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002T5H8MW&pd_rd_r=AS4WPBTSD6MSHYPGNT6G&pd_rd_w=Tukkq&pd_rd_wg=wvdFy&psc=1&refRID=AS4WPBTSD6MSHYPGNT6G

$120ish all in, but worth it.

Some racks use a single support arm that connects to the brake bridge bolt. Axiom stream liner road dlx.

Sunlite Gold Tec. Mounts right to the canti bosses on your fork, as well as the fork crown. Solid little rack for cheap.

The other replies are right about the lack of mounting holes on the top of the seatstays, and their solutions. Another alternative is that some racks mount onto the centre brake caliper bolt like this one.

Link if interested: https://www.amazon.com/gearup-OakRak-Ceiling-Storage-Walnut/dp/B009YU2DU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480893235&sr=8-1&keywords=gear+up+bike+rack

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000TM96MM/ref=redir_mdp_mobile


Here's one that looks exactly like mine except the brackets that hold the bikes are metal instead of felt lined oak.

You just need a rack with separate mounting points, one for panniers, and then a separate platform. Something like this should work.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Touring-Frame-Mounted-Adjustable/dp/B00DWKUAZK/ref=pd_sbs_468_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DWKUAZK&pd_rd_r=W5QJTYPPC8W58TBPKGT1&pd_rd_w=4SvEw&pd_rd_wg=JbWS4&psc=1&refRID=W5QJTYPPC8W58TBPKGT1

I think I have that rack, this is my rack

Axiom DLX Streamliner Road Cycle Rack, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025UCXEO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YJOrybPKAG2WZ

I have it on my carbon road bike. With a stopwatch it took me five minutes to take on or off, and so when I ride with other people I take it off so they don't give me funny looks :)

Topeak Tote on a Topeak Tourist rack if anyone is curious.

its this cheap one. works OK with the Wald 137 for groceries or my backpack. Don't think I would trust it for anything very heavy

They're super common, and shouldn't be a big deal to find. If you do have trouble, there's always amazon.

Assuming this is your bike, you're going to have a hard time attaching racks. Maybe a seatpost bike rack will work. But they don't hold much weight. I wouldn't trust it with a laptop or college textbooks. Bikes with rear suspension really don't accommodate racks very well. If you're using your bike a lot for commuting back and forth to school, it would probably be worth trading in the bike to something more appropriate for commuting.

Here are a few I just found on Amazon. No experience with them though..

Topeak

Racktime

Axiom

Edit: the topeak I linked is the disc version. They make a non disc as well, seems to be the same price.

The seat clamp is a good option. Another choice is a rack that attaches to the caliper mount, like the Axiom Streamliner, but I'm not sure if that will interfere with your brakes or not.

Also my favorite upgrade was the rear rack. I stopped having the back sweat patch from backpacks.

Explorer Rack Without Spring, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FIE3WI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_16VXCbPYK7JYQ

Well there is the new Rawland rack that attaches to brazeons not Canti studs.

There is the cheap Sunlite rack in black

Everything else I know of is bigger and or mounts to the fork dropouts. Simworks, Pass&Stow, HaulinColin all come in black.

http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Road-Cycle-Black/dp/B0025UCXEO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1406760876&sr=8-3&keywords=axiom+bike+rack

I went with this because I was concerned about heelstrike issues due to the seatstay angle. Turns out that it was a good choice but didn't prevent me from grazing the large bags when fully packed. Which is why I put the big bags up front and the mini's in back.

The bags are Ortlieb Backrollers.

This is what I have:

Ibera Bike Rack - Bicycle Touring Carrier Plus+ for Disc Brake Mount, Frame-Mounted for Heavier Top & Side Loads, Height Adjustable for 26"-29" Frames https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AA8GFSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rwimDb3J8XHMJ

That's a bike rack, not a seat. Here's the amazon link:

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-63107030-Explorer-Bike-Rack/dp/B000FIE3WI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1346624054&sr=8-3&keywords=bike+rack

The image is directly copied from an existing Rack on Amazon: <https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002T5H8MW/>

Don't fall for this scammer.

I have this http://www.axiomgear.com/products/gear/racks/streamliner-series/streamliner-disc-dlx/

I carry so much weight I do wheelies if I'm not sitting on it. Rated for 110lbs

$33.56 on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004094HY2/ref=s9_simh_gw_d0_g468_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-1&pf_rd_r=0NZMQHGAACEBC23H7MC6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1634797062&pf_rd_i=507846#

I use on a 26" MTB without disc. Plenty of clearance for fenders

Amazon. It's reasonably cheap. I had to lag-bolt mine into the ceiling as I have vaulted ceilings and it fits by compression, so be forewarned if you're in a similar situation.

Link

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154OMGIK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I've been using these for my 12lb battery. Broke two of them, but after I got the bike shop to bend the flange straight so I could scoot the battery closer to the seat post, it's held up almost a year now.

I made one: https://instagram.com/p/BYEIPVlHlxW/

I bought this Sunlite Gold Tec Front Rack, 26"/700c, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MKHR6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_BMO8ngFtfJywW and this Vaultz Locking Personal Security Box, 7.75 x 7.25 x 10 Inches, Black (VZ00102-2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q86PNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_wFngWCmqhqJbk and then just used some nuts and bolts (and drilled a hole) to put it all together!

There's a couple of options to mount the rear rack clamps that clamp on to the seat stays Portland Design Works Payload and Loading Dock Rack Hardware Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A91JIJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_M2HjzbYR6HWSQ
Or a seat post adapter Sunlite Bicycle Rack Seat Clamp, 34.9mm, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014GI9RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s9HjzbFRCPMTC

As far as which one to buy there's a bunch of decent ones in that range I've used this one on a bike for years with one problem Topeak Explorer Bike Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FIE3WI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9-HjzbZFWZTYE

Axiom also makes done good ones in that price range.

I use a Topeak rack with bag setup.

I used to have this problem but then I put one of these on my bike.

Explorer Rack Without Spring, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FIE3WI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

That’s the rack that you have to order separately

Rack is Topeak Explorer and the bike has eyelets for the rack to mount on

Depending on what you're travelling with, you could look into a bike rack and detachable bag.

I use this rack and this bag.

This rack worked with child seats for me:
https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Super-Tourist-Tubular-Bicycle/dp/B000ZKHN6Y/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=topeak+rear+rack&qid=1568775315&sr=8-4

I use this on my old carbon roadie. I think it can attach multiple ways (including to brake mount).
https://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Road-Cycle-Black/dp/B0025UCXEO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=bike+racks+lx&qid=1559236935&s=gateway&sr=8-2

They come with the rack.

I can't speak to who makes those fenders, but the rack is an Axiom Streamliner Road DLX, which I currently have on my Synapse 105.

Probably the cheapest end of the spectrum as far as cheap-but-still-functional front racks go:

SunLite Gold Tec

Anecdotes and mods aplenty here.

Zip tied to this awesome little rack right here:

http://amzn.com/B002MKHR6G

This doesn't hold much but it might work
https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Seatpost-mounted-Commuter-Carrier/dp/B002T5GHNI

Seatpost racks can't handle a lot of weight, but the quick release function might be appealing:. E.g.: https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Seatpost-mounted-Commuter-Carrier/dp/B002T5GHNI

I was really wanting this one because it looks incredibly sturdy, but I don't have the necessary threaded holes near the seatpost.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_3QV4tb1CZT06B

This one. I did have to order a seat post clamp that has the mounting holes.

Get an Axiom Streamliner Disc. Thats the answer.

Axiom DLX Streamliner Disc Cycle Rack, Black

http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Disc-Cycle-Black/dp/B004094HY2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1463772823&sr=1-1&keywords=Axiom+rack

It's an Axiom Streamliner for Disc brakes http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Disc-Cycle-Black/dp/B004094HY2

Axiom DLX Disc Rack fits most bikes. Not extra-wide.

Link: http://amzn.com/B004094HY2

I just have my Hotshot mounted to my rack with Cygolite’s bracket. You can pull it right off and stick it in your bag.

EDIT: Link

https://www.amazon.com/CygoLite-Rack-Mount-for-Hotshot/dp/B009VUB0Q8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VDMRWF7G62WXE9P91J9N

How about a floor to ceiling bike rack instead? Here is one example:

http://amzn.com/B009YU2DU2

I’m in the US but I have this and it looks very similar: Ibera rack

its a toshiba laptop backpack bag i got from newegg few months ago when it was on sale -

https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834976649

and here is the rear rack i am using (RA-5 for disc brake, RA-4 for vbrake) -

https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bike-Rack-Frame-Mounted-Adjustable/dp/B00AA8GFSI

Links to accessories:

Fenders $37: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TQ43EXG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rack $33: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA8GFSI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pannier $55: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FNP4JZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Headlight $68: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4ANAPU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA8GFSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Worked on a Sondors with 4.9" fatties.

I have a Ibera 2 in 1 PakRak.

https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Commuter-Expandable-Panniers-Detachable/dp/B00EOB89JA/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=ibera+bike+bag&qid=1558195185&s=gateway&sprefix=Ibera&sr=8-6

It clips on the Ibera rack, so very easy to remove and install.

https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bike-Rack-Frame-Mounted-Adjustable/dp/B00DWKUAZK/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=ibera+bike+bag&qid=1558195339&s=gateway&sprefix=Ibera&sr=8-16