Reddit mentions: The best capacitors

Well, breadboards run pretty cheap... And size matters here. Sometimes a smaller board is better, but a large board gives you more room to work with. So I'd recommend getting both! A small board will be nice for smaller projects, but larger boards will be nice for more in-depth prototyping that require more room to work with. And he can always use a small area of a large board when he doesn't need it all... but a large board won't fit into a small boat or airplane if that's what he is doing... So, at a good price, both can be beneficial.

Other than that, he'll need jumpers (male/female), and maybe a ribbon cable. Ribbon cables need a T-board (or equivalent) to connect to the breadboard with, but jumpers just plug into the GPIO pins. With a small breadboard, jumpers are favorable, as they only take up as much space as one pinhole, and they come in many different colors and lengths. A larger board can accommodate a ribbon cable and T-board more readily... a T-board can take up a LOT of space on a small breadboard REALLY quickly.

Word to the wise: if you buy a ribbon cable and T-board, you are going to want to know what type of Pi he has. The original versions had fewer GPIO pins than the B+ and the A+ versions. This means that a larger ribbon cable wouldn't work with the original Pi's. If he has an A or B, a 40 pin cable/T-board wouldn't work as they're designed for the newer B+ and A+. If you need help identifying which board he has, we can help you with a photo or a description of the board...

Also, a resistor kit and a capacitor kit would be good to have, if he doesn't already have them. Most projects require that you use resistors/capacitors somewhere, and the kits usually come with several of the most used resistors/capacitors, which should tie him over for some time.

Then you should get him an LED set. LEDs are nice because they can be used as a "proof of concept" tool. Since everything into and out of the Pi is digital, all you are doing is giving an item voltage. So it doesn't matter if you're using a buzzer, motor, servo, or LED... they will all work interchangeably. He can use an LED to prove that his code and wiring works when the light comes on... then, when it all works, he can swap the LED for a buzzer or something, and everything should still work, just with sound instead of light.

You could also buy him some sort of case, but these aren't always necessary. I don't use on on my Pi, and it works just fine... I just have to make sure I'm not shorting it on anything, or breaking it in some stupid way. These vary so much in design and price, I'll let you search for them instead of providing a link... just remember, like the ribbon cable, cases will obviously depend on the model he has.

Personally, I would stay away from potentiometers and photoresistors since the Pi only has digital inputs. Both of these items would need to be attached as analog items to work properly, and that means buying extra boards for correct functionality. The Raspberry Pi can not natively read analog inputs, so these items would only be frustrating to him since he can't use them without extra parts.

This should get him started in coding and prototyping. If he's looking for motors, servos, or speakers, you can get him those too, but they're not necessary to tinker with a Pi.

There are also kits that offer these items, but they're usually more expensive than they have to be, and they may or may not have everything you're looking for. Also, there are other places to shop for these types of things, but I use Amazon because it was the quickest and easiest place to search for examples of all of these things for this post. If you're smart with your shopping, you can get all of these items for ~$100, and might be able to have them shipped before Christmas... but you're going to have to hurry.

EDIT: Added links since you said you knew "nothing" about these items. This should make searching easier since you can actually see what I'm talking about...

Has he applied for any jobs yet? I was given one of those leather pads with paper inside and a holder for resumes (something like this) except it was from my undergrad university with their emblem. Definitely gives you some confidence for interviews and recruiting sessions. Also you can get him some nice resume paper to go with it. That lasted me for years.

I also enjoyed having one or two of these demotivational posters in my room. Depends on his humor and if he has barren walls like I did.

If you know more details about which raspberry pi he has, you could get some shield extensions. These are boards that expand its capabilities. There are also newer boards with better specs. Also with two boards you can of course make them talk to each other ;)

Depends on his area of interest and your budget, but you could get him some kind of [introductory FPGA kit] (http://store.digilentinc.com/fpga-programmable-logic/) or DE0-Nano.

Tools... so many tools he might be interested in. USB logic analyzers are so cheap these days and go well with hobby boards. Again not sure your budget, so you can go all sorts of ranges here (Open Workbench Logic Sniffer or scanaplus or Saleae Logic 8 or a china clone of Saleae Logic 8). Saleae or the knockoff I think are the better options for the software compatibility. He may be in need of a soldering iron or a multimeter.

Something else unique, you could get him a "gift card" (they don't really sell them) or an IOU to a PCB printing service. Ask him to design his own board and you'll pay $X of the service. You'll want to make sure he knows the price structure on the website because they charge per square inch and it depends on his design how many layers he may need. He makes the schematic and they will print some circuit boards for him. They won't mount the parts, just do the schematic and he would have to hand solder the components.

If he likes old videogames you could get him some old school USB controllers and tell him to install lakka on his rasberry pi, or just get him a new Raspberry Pi3 to dedicate it as an old-school console emulator. It is quite impressive how many consoles they have emulated.

And back to more tools... more micro screwdriver bits than you would actually need. You can get him a starter pack of resistors, capacitors, and other assorted electronics sparkfun. There are also so many buttons, switches, LED screen displays, etc. that he probably wouldn't want to buy on his own. Maybe you could get a container with an assortment of circuit components (resistors, capacitors, transistors, and other sensors). Careful! This can add up real quick. All types of sensors exist... ultrasonic rangefinder, stress, photocell, temperature, etc. etc. endless!.

• I can't recommend a better book than this one.
  
• Get this resistor kit. Seriously, I bought one of these a year ago and I've never once had to buy more resistors.
  
• You're going to need a capacitor set like this one.
  
• You're also going to need a breadboard.
  
• Make a trip to Maplin and get an assortment pack of LEDs and a few switches. Trust me, this will make your life a tons easier when it comes to making proof of concept or test circuits. And they make circuitry more interactive and fun!
  
• Lastly, get a cheap multimeter. You can get one at Maplin or somewhere similar for like <15 pounds.
  
  Sorry about the links, I'm in the US so the prices will be in USD but that shouldn't be a problem. I really hope you find this hobby as intriguing as I do, I started a year ago making little flashlights and what-not and now I'm making motion detectors and all kinds of cool gadgets. If you'd like some guidance or help, don't think twice about PMing me! Best of luck.
  

This sounds a little fishy to me. I just had my entire HVAC unit replaced because of a freon leak but I pretty much knew it before I had a tech come out to confirm it for me and I went ahead and replaced my unit. When the tech measured mine freon, it was some very low value but not 0 psi.

I have to wonder if the tech attached the gauge in the right valves to get a reading of 0 psi. I'd think the minimum would be 1 psi as that's equilibrium with the surrounding air. Also, how would he know if the leak is somewhere inside the walls in the lines? The most common points for leaks are usually in one of the coils so it's interesting for him to immediately point to the problem inside your walls. With the guy coming out to see you fashionably late, questionable usage with the gauge, refusing to do any work and making excuses, it sounds like this guy is pretty incompetent. Like you said, it was a 2 star on yelp so maybe it was well earned.

I'd suggest you get a second opinion like others have recommended. I strongly suspect that it's the motor on condenser unit as my old unit had the same thing happen a few years ago. My compressor sounds like it was still running but the fan was not moving. The problem was the run capacitor was shot and after replacing it, my fan was moving again and it bought me a few years before I went ahead and replaced the thing. The run capacitor looks something like this and should be visible on the condenser unit after you remove the panel. Pretty easy to get to and diagnose if that's the problem. Just make sure you get the appropriate capacitor for your unit and turn off your power if you plan on diagnosing it yourself.

OK, I get the picture. That certainly puts things in perspective. I think you're on a solid track but I tend to think in terms of implementation issues. Now that I understand the task, let me suggest a few things.

• Your enclosure/box for the animal. You probably already intend to use a separate manual door to place the animal inside. If not, I suggest strongly you consider having a separate (manually operated) door to place animal inside. I suspect the plastic door may need to run slowly to overcome the weight, not sure...
  
• For this type of project, I consider your limit switch approach to be fine. But looking over the actual switch, I can see it won't lend itself to hold extra wiring (like a diode, capacitor PLUS the wires). Instead, it appears you need to use special female-crimp-lugs to connect to the switch male-lugs. So that indicates the need for some kind of wiring area (a wood block or perhaps a terminal strip or a small PC board) for solid connections to be made. It makes sense to have two such wiring sections -- one proximate to each limit switch. So I think its wise to be prepared to do wiring mostly off the switches such that components (Cap, Diode) can be connected to wires and wires then sent to motor and switches.
  
• I consider the addition of the non-polarized cap to be important to protect the diodes from voltage surge (breaking connection to motor coil) and keeping the limit switch contacts from getting damaged by sparks. Think of it as the cap used in ignition systems to protect what they call "points". It should keep things reliable. You don't need a failure in the field with this type situation.
  
• Another thought, suggest you build this with an eye on being serviceable. If your project is a great success, you may be using it far more than you think you will. If that is possible, you want to have spare parts for servicing, and build the project with an eye on being able to service it quickly (for example, repair it in the field). If that is possible, you may want to evaluate your build plan to incorporate a modular approach for easy service and repair. Something to consider...
  
  So, that's my 2 cents :). When do you start construction? Do you have a plan for building the enclosure? What overall weight are you envisioning I wonder.
  
  hth

Well I tend to get carried away. You will use fewer LEDs than you expect. I have a pile of the things, and dont think I will need to buy more for a decade. The first thing I ran out of in the kit was 10k resistors, and the first thing I had to buy that the kit didnt have were a bunch of 2n2222 transistors. Best bet is to find a list of projects that interest you and buy the parts for them. Buy more of any parts that are present in multiple projects. I bought capacitor, transistor, and diode kits from amazon that have some of the most common of each.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSFNYFP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1W6VV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077KM7XTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you plan on making your own circuit boards (which you will if you want to keep your projects,) there are cheap perfboard assortments that are handy too. Last thing, because this list is getting out of hand, when I first started, I had electrical experience, but no electronics experience. When I started making my out circuit boards, I was using stranded wire, and tinning each wire before inserting it in the board. Worked just fine, but "hook up" wire (which I had never heard of), is solid core wire that doesnt need to be tinned. Good gravy did that speed up the process.

I thought I was done, but then I thought of more. I2C LCD screens are cool too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1N4XM6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Qunqi-Serial-Backlight-Arduino-MEGA2560/dp/B01E4YUT3K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522421759&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=i2c+lcd&psc=1

They only use 4 pins including ground and power, instead of 12 or whatever the crap the standard ones need. Super easy to set up and use. Alright Im done. You wont be able to get on the plane if you try to take home any more than all that. :D

Edit: Nevermind, I found the source of the problem. Measured the coil impedance across each terminal of the motor, and got 50 ohms from brown to black, and for a moment I had about 10 ohms from purple to black, but then my meter went up to 500k, then I spun it a few times and got an open circuit, then short circuit....I opened it up, hoping that one of the input lead solder connections had cracked or something (the female spade terminals all looked good) and found this:

http://i.imgur.com/2teBSc9.jpg

That black part does not look good. Previously:

*****

After tearing into it further, I'm not so confident it's the capacitor anymore :( I ordered one anyways from Amazon because it's $12 and I can have it here Saturday - I probably can't even have a tech here by then - but I don't know if it will help me.

I measure 5.00 uF with my DMM (which I trust) on the fan pins and 50.1 uF on the compressor pins across the capacitor with those components disconnected. This makes me think that the capacitor might be good.

Following your flowchart, the indoor fan runs, the outdoor compressor runs, but the outdoor fan does not run at all. And the condenser gets hot QUICKLY.

Also, when the unit is on (fan obviously not moving), I see 50VAC between the contactor output (black) and start winding on the capacitor, (brown) and 243 VAC between the contactor and capacitor common terminal (purple).

But I get absolutely no torque of any kind out of the motor, not even buzzing. It spins smoothly by hand, though!

It is a 17-year-old Trane unit. I uploaded some pictures to http://imgur.com/a/tLs50.

Thanks again for your help!

Looks to me from the part number to be a 50 + 5 uf capacitor. I'd suggest this as a replacement, but really your best bet would be to take off that strap holding it and make sure the specs on the label match.

Titan TRCFD505 Dual Rated Motor Run Capacitor Round MFD 50/5 Volts 440/370 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IC20TUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hVfdBb74MTBCB

A good way to check if it's the capacitor is to turn on the AC and assuming nothing happens, give the fan a push with a screwdriver or something and see if it gets going.

He actually showed me on his ohmmeter the readouts. It was a dual capacitor, cylindrical shaped with one terminal for the fan, and one for the compressor. I don't have the part anymore, but I'm almost positive it was a 45 + 5 like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Round-Motor-Capacitor-Goodman-Carrier/dp/B004XS1SF6/ref=pd_sim_328_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JDQWHW3WYSDGSZMSCC6K

He was recommended to me by a friend who had furnace issues. The guy is youngish and just started his own company about a year ago. Had previously worked for a larger HVAC company but got tired of not being his own boss. We settled in cash, which I'm sure affected the pricing. I absolutely realize how fortunate I was. I already have him scheduled to come out for the seasonal checkup in the fall whenever he has a gap in his schedule. He told me it'd be $60.

whoops! thanks! just canceled. i thought i was making things easier! i found two resistor sets that ranged from 0-10M:

Pixnor

Cutequeen

The Cutequeen certainly looks like a better value but I don't think I need that many resistors, so I went with the Pixnor set. For capacitors I think these should fit the bill:

Capacitor set

I read a bit about the different kinds of caps and decided that I didn't want to deal with electrolytic caps since I'm just starting out and don't want to have to worry about polarity.

Hopefully I picked the right components this time! Thanks again for the help!

For those of you wishing to DIY on this, but need the capacitors you have two choices:

1. Use a standard Electrolytic Capacitor (big, not recommended)
   
2. Use the proper cap, an Aluminium SMD (you must be able to handle soldering the small SMD packages, SMD hot air workstation recommended, but not required, if you've a steady hand and some solder skills)
   
   If so, to get the caps you have two choices ;-}
   
   
   
3. An electronics house like Mouser, Digikey, Arrow, Newark, Element14, etc. You then wait a long time or pay ridiculous shipping.
   
4. Get an assortment kit from BangGood (long shipping, very cheap), EBay (who knows), or Amazon.
   
   Here's two kits from Amazon, but no idea of quality. That said, almost certainly OK.
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/McIgIcM-Capacitors-Assorted-Electrolytic-Assortment/dp/B06XD6ZZWJ
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Assortment/dp/B071FBZJ11
   
   BTW - I don't EVER do "Affiliate links".
   
   PuterPro

Like you said its a good idea to filter the vtx power source. That's probably what the CAP port is for (there is a CAP+ and CAP- right?). Capacitors absorb voltage spikes and act as a filter. Use a high capacitance low ESR cap like this one
It's uncommon for VTX power sources to require 12v. If you use a modern vtx like this you can just run it straight off the battery without a BEC, with a cap attached in parallel ideally.

Hi! I built a Beavis Board about six weeks ago. Not terribly difficult to make at all. I purchased these on amazon from Joe knows...

Resistors
Capacitors
Transistors

The problem I have is that some of transistors aren't right for the layouts, the capacitors aren't film, and I couldn't find an assorted IC box.

If I had to do it all over again I would catalog all the parts needed for every project on the projects guide or see of there was a list of items the Beavis Board came with and take that to Tayda or Mammoth. It's a lot of work but will be better in the long run.

I'm definitely interested if anyone else has purchased assorted boxes and how that worked out.

It can replace a ptc permanently, but you gotta make sure it's indeed the ptc that was the issue. Seems coincidental that it happened while you were cleaning the refrig. Any chance any spray/cleaner stuff got into the refrigerators control?

If the ptc has a black rectangular thing plugged into it (a capacitor), you'll probably want to get a 3-n-1 kit that provides extra terminals to plug the capacitor into. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Supco-URC0410-3-N-1-Capacitor-Refrigerators/dp/B00PM8P4LA

The rectangular capacitor will pull out from the ptc relay (if there is one connected to it)

I think it'll work without the capacitor, but if it's designed to work with it--I'd make sure to get the 3-n-1 that utilizes it.

Yohii 3300uF 6.3v 105C Aluminum Radial Capacitors for The LCD TV & Monitor Repair 20pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BWCS8LT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NDOWDbZJ6AP1V


I used these to replace them it was super easy and works great now

Thanks for the quick response - I'll definitely take a look at the capacitor dimensions.

Where would I find information on the ESR of a given capacitor? I was looking at these ones: https://www.amazon.com/2200uF-16X36-Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/dp/B074LJQRVP/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506185716&sr=8-5&keywords=2200uF+capacitor+50v

Would it just be better to replace the capacitors (both of them) with 35V ones like the originals?

I don't see any swelling on those caps, but that doesn't mean they're not bad. It'll only cost you a few cents to replace them anyway. I see there are some kits with all the caps you would need on Amazon. Of course you can get them all separately as well, but this makes it easy on you.

https://www.amazon.com/Repair-Samsung-LN46A550-Capacitors-Entire/dp/B008ADD5AG

Hello, tbh id just like to have the most versatile set up possible and having individual volume and tone for each coil seemed/seems like the most versatile way to do this, im not too worried about space since i plan to add a jack ferrule and if the pots dont fit in the pre made cavity of my bass i could route some more space, aslo drilling holes on my pickguard doesent bother me.

so a basic tldr of what i want to do is this:

1. add a new pickup(link bellow) and have some way of turning it off, on and blending with the stock p bass pickup
   
2. add a master blower switch.
   
3. have diferent tones for new pickup and stock p bass.
   
4. add a capacitor switch.
   
5. have a kill switch.
   
   this is the hardware i currently have:
   
   pots: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018Z5C2M0/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   switch for killswitch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JBF815/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   caps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TY3B3P/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   blower switch: https://www.ebay.com/p/500k-Long-Shaft-Push-Pull-Pot-Audio-Taper-DPDT-Switch/691216382?iid=361797801322&chn=ps&_ul=MX&dispctrl=1
   
   blender for pickups: https://reverb.com/item/14436357-ep-4586-000-1-cts-dual-500k-500k-concentric-control-pot-for-guitar-bass
   
   new pickup: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RXBUVEE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   ​
   
   let me know what you think of that and if theres a better way to do it.
   
   also id like to do it with the hardware i currently have.
   
   thanks m8

Here ya go friend

coolestore 10X 5.5V 4F Farad Ultracapacitor Super capacitor H Type For Power backup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QIIRVQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XQ62BbT9CGAVT

This.. I have really been enjoying look mum's cem 3340 tutorial:
https://www.lookmumnocomputer.com/cem-3340-diy-simple/

I would strongly suggest getting a resistor and capacitor kit off ebay or amazon.. They're like 15$-20$ each. That will get you a few of a huge range of resistors and caps:

https://www.amazon.com/Top-cofrLD-Resistors-1640pcs-resistors-Assortment/dp/B00WE1FQ8Y/ref=sr_1_14?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1541720878&sr=1-14&keywords=resistor+book

https://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Electronics-Value-Capacitor/dp/B007SVHFXO/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1541720924&sr=1-5&keywords=capacitor+kit&dpID=41%252BFAHpNRVL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

The worst part of these projects is waiting for parts. So Building up a little surplus of this kind of stuff will make your wait time much lower..

It's the big starting capacitor, inside the box with the fan. Something like this, but obviously get one that matches what's in there already. Mine has three contacts like the link, but some can have only two. Check around locally to see if someone has the one you need, to get it faster.

I see this happen with my quads when I get voltage spikes. The caps should get rid of that.

6 pcs Panasonic FM Series Capacitors - 25V 470uf Ultra Low ESR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073YQ8N55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SpNRDbYWJ43E8

Something like this. You can solder it right onto the battery lead. A friend of mine gets a cap holder from brain 3d and it holds it next to the xt60. I've put leads on mine and ran it under the arm or somewhere convenient for the frame.

I personally would go with something more like this. As the proximity to the socket and size difference of the posted cap may cause issues (8mm x 15mm this value is from the data sheet given on the link, not the description vs 6.3mm x 9mm this is more likely than the given 6x9 as that's the only size I found on aliexpress).

NOTE: I don't know what the code on the top is, I'm assuming production code (date / line / batch kind of info).

I've read everywhere that these are the best:

6 pcs Panasonic FM Series Electrolytic Capacitors - 35V 1000uf 20% Low Impedance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073YR6LVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_AK4MsHl8uDQSE

[Looks like this one.](New 5PCS 820uF 3V 820uF3V 3V820uf 69mm 6X9mm Solid Capacitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYX2D7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rLf3Cb17KGAFN)

This is a good starter CAP Kit

And in a pinch for work I needed some resistors, so I drove over and bought this KIT
for $8.

It is nice to have a range of stuff laying around, but you will never be able to stock everything you may ever need.

I dont stock many trannys (maybe 5 varieties), but I do have a few drawers of IC's.

I bought one of these a few years ago, and it's stood by me. I've had to restock a few values, but this has gotten me close enough for 95% of my projects. Same for their resistor kit. I got the digital logic kit as well (lots of transistors and diodes) but it hasn't been as useful to me.

its just a 470uf (or larger) 6V+ capacitor

something like this would work
https://www.amazon.com/pcs-Panasonic-FM-Capacitors-470uf/dp/B073YQ8N55

For straight ham stuff, I've used mostly Gigaparts and DX Engineering recently.

Recently I've discovered electronic parts "starter kits" like these,
that can get a ham a good start on an well-stocked lab:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E9Z0OCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SVHFXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's probably one of the better kits I've seen.

With that being said, no matter what kit you get, get a variety/assorted pack of resistors and capacitors. For example: http://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Electronics-Value-Capacitor/dp/B007SVHFXO/

Check Ebay and such to get these cheap.

Amazon has these.

https://www.amazon.com/PowerWell-Capacitor-TP-CAP-35-Condenser-Conditioner/dp/B01F7P8GJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524946720&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=35+5+440v+capacitor&dpPl=1&dpID=51MTzgfISOL&ref=plSrch

capacitor pack

Buy this and then Buy this other thing and you'll never need Radio Shack ever again.

https://gyazo.com/d1aabe552c0e304b32a6d46a425ea8e6

maybe this can help as well

I'm having trouble finding which capacitor I need for this unit :(
Would this one work?
https://www.amazon.com/Genteq-C3355R-Capacitor-97F9834-Z97F9834/dp/B008OJRHJG

I had a problem with the 5v regulator fluctuating on my gen L which caused the temps on the bed and hotend to fluctuate by about 3-5 degrees. An ultra low ESR cap connected to a 5v and ground pin fixed that.