(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best car audio amplifiers

I have a few, but it depends on your budget. If you are looking for all in one DAC and Amp combos, the two I would suggest are:

BUDGET

FiiO E10K and the NuForce uDAC3

Both of those would be great options for a budget solution, and they are tiny so they double as a portable or mobile Dac/Amp. They get power from USB, but it should be enough to drive 50ohm headphones. The Fiio is going to be the cheaper of the two, around $75, and the Nuforce will be around $100. Sometimes the Nuforce uDac3 will be around $70-$80 on amazon, but it's usually around $100.

MORE EXPENSIVE

If you have between $200-$300 budget, then I would recommend the Modi 2 and Magni 2 by Schiit Audio. It is usually referred to as the 'Schiit Stack" (because you literally stack them on top of each other lol), but you don't have to stack them.

If you go to their site, it will lists all of their amps, and all of their Dacs. The Magni 2 is the Amp, and the Modi 2 is the Dac. There are the basic versions (which is what I have), and they run $99 each if you order directly through Schiit, which comes out to $200 for the set. They also make an "Uber" version of each, which runs about $150 bucks per unit, which is $300 total. The differences between the standard and Uber version or sort of minimal, but the Uber version of the Schiit stack is regarded by many audiophiles as the best "budget" audiophile Dac/Amp setup. For the price, it rivals many solid state and tube amp and dacs that cost $500+ dollars.



I have the Standard version, and it sounds great with my AKG K612's. There is a list somewhere of all of the headsets that sound great with the Schiit stack, and what kind of sound signature you get out of each. The best thing to do if you already know what kind of sound signature you like out of your headphones, is to find the Headphone + Dac/Amp combo that produces that type of sound, and pic that. But I would say that the HD598's + the Schiit stack will be perfectly fine for you, but of course that will be up for you to decide if you were to go this route.

MY SUGGESTION

I would recommend the budget route, at least until you know what kind of sound signature you like. Some people want flat sounding cans, others want bright highs (probably really good for hearing gunshots and footsteps), others want a more warm sound, where the mids really break through the track and the bass really kicks.

The budget option will be a cheap way for you to determine if the HD598's produce the type of sound you like. If they do, then you can upgrade your Dac and Amp in the future, OR just change to a different headset if you decide that you want more highs, or more low end.

This will be my second time typing this out, since I hit the fucking Browser-Back shortcut on my mouse.

I wouldn't recommend the Koss Plugs as a set of mixing phones, even while travelling. The clarity is simply nonexistant. My suggestion is just to use them as a second pair to check out your bassline before you finalize a track. For something more balanced, you might want to set aside an hour or two and drag your eyeballs over this thread over at head-fi.

As an off-the-cuff recommendation, Velodyne vPulse have gained quite a reputation in the under-$150 category. they have plenty of bass output, but it's much tighter than the Koss, no muddiness. They also get plenty of compliments on the detail in the midrange/treble.

/r/Audiophile is a great resource, as is /r/Headphones, but to save yourself from shame, I will tell you ahead of time, anything called a soundcard will almost certainly get you laughed out.

Puts on top hat and monocle, raising a cup of tea with the pinky out

>A gentleman uses a DAC with a seperate Headphone Amplifier.

In all fairness a soundcard is nothing but a DAC with a built-on amp, though the integrated amp circuits are terrible, in terms of audio reproduction.

You can get a DAC and feed an amp with it, or you can get a DAC/Amp combo, which is a popular place to begin, and is a great solution for a personal digital studio, especially if you use your laptop as a creative device away from home. The most recommended (for good reason) is the FiiO e7. It performes both the DAC and amplifier functions, as well as including an input jack and a battery so you can stick it in your pocket and connect it to your ipod/phone/whatever and increase the quality of your portable listening as well (This bypasses the DAC and only uses the amp). The only drawback to the e7 is that the amp is kind of puny. Mind you it is still more powerful than whatever is built into your devices, but it can leave you wanting if you have some high-end, high-impedance headphones. To solve that, you can either get a FiiO e9 amplifier to leave on your desk and dock the e7 to when you are at home, or you can pick up a FiiO e17 which is almost identical to the e7, but with more juice to the amp. You mentioned a speaker setup at home, so you would also want a FiiO l7 line out plug so you could run the un-amped output of the DAC to your speakers. Keep in mind, none of this passes as "Audiophile grade" hardware, but it's certainly (digital) studio quality.

All in all, an e7 and a pair of vPulse IEMs would set you back about $150, give you the low-end you need, a full-up system you could pack in your pocket while you're on the move, and also boost the quality of your 8400's, and whatever monitors you choose at home.

I'll get off my soapbox now. Hopefully that gives you a head start on your research.

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.

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^tiny ^disclaimer: I don't work for FiiO, I'm not trying to sell you FiiO stuff, I don't even use FiiO myself. They just have a great reputation, and market at a reasonable price-range.

This amp performed really well on the amp dyno. It a Chinese board, a lot of people don't like messing with Chinese but I feel like I could give this amp a choice.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NLL68C/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1494378079&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=soundstream+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=31pytKGMJsL&ref=plSrch
This amp is a Korean board which is typically the more reliable and reputable option. Skar has had customer service issues in the past, but it's in the distant past and I don't really think they issues are relevant anymore. Worth noting this amp did a little underrated on the amp dyno but it will be plenty for your subs. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TKE7APU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494378238&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Skar+audio+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41IfkL4-AuL&ref=plSrch
A lot of people are recommending this amp, it's worth noting there is no subsonic filter. Idk where it's board is from, seems Chinese but I could be wrong. Im sure it's a good amp.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CLFM596/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494378383&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pioneer+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=51YozvhmIYL&ref=plSrch
This amp is also recommended regularly on here. It is a Chinese board, actually it is the same board as the soundstream amp. I recommended up top. This amp seems solid and people. Like it. Great price point.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KW10ES/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494378510&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ppi+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41xpN3VUPGL&ref=plSrch


The Sundown amp that they priced you is a great amp, better than all of these, but for me bot worth the price difference. These all do plenty of power for your subs, and some you might even have to back off a tiny bit. If you want a warranty, you don't want to get it off amazon. Find them online from certified dealers. I know for the Skar amp you can buy it just as cheap right from the Skar Internet site. The other can be found on down 4 sound or woofers ect

Hey guys,


The DAC and amp guide here seems a bit old and I'm a bit of a newbie so I figured I'd ask here.


Here is my current equipment at my work desk:

• Dell E1505 laptop - crappy, giant, old school enterprise laptop. Only audio output is 1/8th headphone jack and the sound card is awful
  
• M-Audio Studiophile AV-40 Active Studio speakers with built in amp
  
  
  These are currently connected using a simple 1/8th to 1/8th audio cable, but the end result sounds awful and looks ugly as well since the 1/8th cable has to be plugged in to the front.
  
  
  I would like to hook up the laptop to send audio to the speakers, I don't usually use headphones. The speakers use RCA and 1/8th as input, but I'd like to use RCA because those inputs are behind the speaker and won't clutter my desk. In an effort to accomplish this AND improve the sound quality a bit, should I get a DAC? And should I consider switching speakers or do you guys think these are ok?
  
  
  
• Audio source: laptop.
  
• Audio type: music, mostly metal, some IDM, some hip-hop.
  
• Willing to buy used: yes.
  
• Budget: ideally <$150, the lower the better.
  
  
  
  Ideally, I'm looking for the DAC to run off of AC/USB power since I intend to leave it plugged in 95% of the time. A rotary volume dial would be ideal but isn't strictly necessary. Do I need something like these? And if yes, which one would you recommend?
  
  
  
• Syba USB DAC
  
• Nuforce Icon UDAC-3
  
• Modi USB
  
• Fiio E10
  
• Audioengine D1
  
• DAC destroyer
  
  
  
  
  PS - Could something like this Fiio D3 work maybe? Not sure what kind of adapter would be needed, but it seems unlikely.
  

An amplifier (or power amplifier) will help power your speakers if they are passive speakers. If your speakers are active/powered they have their own power supply and built-in amplifier. A receiver is basically a power amplifier with a built-in radio tuner.

For an phono preamplifier you could check the Art DJPre II. It fits your budget. Also I only checked Amazon so you might want to see if you can find it cheaper elsewhere - prices seem to vary a lot on that one for some reason.

Your next decision should probably be whether to buy passive or active speakers. With active speakers you can skip the power amp/receiver and hook them straight up to the phono preamp, but the prices are usually a little higher than passive speakers for the same quality. Also there generally seems to be a better selection in different price ranges when it comes to passive speakers.

As for speakers - anything you might save from your preamp/amp budget I'd move over to your speaker budget. That's where the sound comes out and is often where you will see (well.. hear) the greatest improvement in sound quality.

You could also skip the external preamp and go for an amp like this Denon which has a built-in phono preamp.

2 max would probably work well in your situation.

an amplifier is not suggested you have some very strong signals and you could end up over amplifying the signal.

An 8 port distribution amp might be good if you have man rooms to setup with tvs... the fewer the ports the stronger the amp.. an 8 port is relatively weak but should be good to get signal to many rooms

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-Distribution-Amplifier-Antenna/dp/B002M1EPL0/

as you can see it is only 4.5db increase per port

If you only have 2-3 rooms then try a regular splitter

if you wanted you could probably get a 5 foot extension to that mast.. if needed. maybe some steel fence post at home depot or lowes and then drive a bolt through it to secure it.

VHF is an issue though you need Fox for NASCAR, NFL, Baseball, MasterChef, Hells Kitchen.... heh 7 is high vhf but i found unless you are getting good signal a full sized VHF antenna is often needed even to get the High VHF... its just the way it is because longer dipoles capture more signal.

good luck to you.. you should have a good lineup

Yeah, so gross-looking, especially compared to the SA50/60. Ruled out the SA50 because it only has one input; the SA60 though has a 3.5 input on the front. Don't want to buy entirely on looks, but at the same time, that Monoprice thing is an eyesore.

The game-changer for me though was discovering that, using the RCA out from my TV, I could just set the volume of the amp to 30% (tested with the Leipai currently being used in my office) and control the level the TV is outputting to the amp. So remote no longer necessary, as long as I'm running RCA into the amp.

The 4 inputs on the Q5 are nice, but 3 are digital (USB, opitcal and coax), so I wouldn't be able to have the TV hooked up and a separate input for my wife's mp3 player. Maybe I'll just go SA60 and call it a day-- that Q5 looked like a lot of fun in your review though, it would be cool to throw an old laptop into my setup and use the Q5 as a DAC, just for fun.

Just bought some BS-22s for my sister (they were $60/pair for like 20 minutes last weekend on Amazon) so she can have a 2-channel setup with her TV in her small apartment. Was going to get her a Leipai to drive them, but her TV has optical out only (weird, no?), so now I'm looking for something comparably priced with a remote is this my winner?

I can try to take pictures. It might be a couple days, since I probably don't want to disassemble it tonight when I get home later, and it'll already be dark out.

Anyway, I have this amp. It has a Bluetooth receiver directly in it, so that's just what I connect my phone to. It was pretty easy to follow the wiring diagram and unwind the stock speaker wire from the old stereo adapter into this.

Once I had the new harness all wired up, underneath the steering wheel (in a 98 TJ, at least) is a plastic panel that's 3-4 screws to come undone. It slides off to reveal a metal panel that protects the underside of the steering wheel, which is another 4-6 screws, I think. With that off, I played with the steering column to make sure all the moving elements were self contained, and then zip tied the amp to the bottom of the column itself.

Screwing in the metal plate secured it pretty thoroughly and the whole thing is invisible behind the plastic cover plate (I was able to run the wires behind the dash from where the stereo used to be and it comes with a wired remote which I ran in the opposite direction (it sits on the top of my dash center column, by the middle fan vents, but that was easier to put there since I have a big gap where the old stereo used to be).

The remote's buttons are big and squishy, which makes it super easy to control the volume and playing. For more detailed controls, I have the phone mounted in the spot where the old stereo was, and I can either use voice controls or pick it up if I need to.

I upgraded the speakers (fronts and in the soundbar) at the same time and it puts out more power than I need. I'd be a bit worried about it blowing stock speakers on my 98.

This amp is designed for a boat, so if you want to connect a standard car stereo head unit, you need to convert those wires to RCA inputs, which is doable, but you could probably find a more traditional car amp that supports Bluetooth if you looked around.

I think he may mean in addition to the n7, not necessarily instead of.

I personally think you may be able to make this work. Ive always wanted to do it also, but there have been a few things stopping me.

1. Volume control. I'm not sure i want to try to reach the tiny buttons, or mess with a touchscreen widget to change my volume.
   
   
2. FM radio. I listen to mostly content from my phone, but occasionally its nice just to have the radio on for around town trips, morning shows, etc. It gets tiring having to choose something to listen to every single time you get in your car.
   
   
3. Powering the tablet, and making sure its on and doing what you want it to do all the time will require some messing around. Not a dealbreaker, but it may be a headache.
   
   Also, ive had that small clarion amp before. Ive also had the Alpine version and i currently have a small RF amp (or 4Ch version) I think the RF is by far the best amp out of the three. I have the 2ch version running my fronts, and it has been great for over 2 years now. Easily worth the extra money.
   
   Edit: Also, i havent tried one yet, but these tiny amps are supposed to be cool too... if you can find one:
   http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html
   

Would definitely recommend trying to demo speakers, though that is often dependent on your location.

I'm a fan of Emotiva stuff, so I'd take a look at their Airmotiv T1. The KEF Q500 is pretty popular and the same price, though I believe is being discontinued. If you're not 100% set on Floorstanders, SVS Ultras, Philharmonics Philharmonitor, and Acsend Acoustics Sierra 2 are all worth a look.

If separates are fine, I'd look at a power amp like the Emotiva A-300 or Onkyo M5010 + a DAC / Preamp such as an Emotiva PT-100 or something from Schitt.

If you'd prefer an all in one package, the Onkyo A9050 is a great piece of kit, and you can add a power amp later in the future anyway.

- Dominator Platinum is a great choice if you have the budget for it (it looks like you do)

- I'd get a beefy air cooler like this one. AIOs are nice to have and look at but in the end, air cooling will work best.

- Don't bother with a sound card. If you want good audio, invest in a dac amplifier like this one.

Finally, I think you'd have a lot of fun putting this kick-ass build together yourself. Not everyone has the time or the expertise, but if you have the time and patience, I think you'd find it rewarding.

> I run a Pioneer Excelon double DIN model, and the variable HP & LP slopes & frequencies, along with the 13 band EQ are quite handy.

I assume you mean the Kenwood Excelon, which I was actually looking at and is about the same price. The Pioneer has all the same features, including HP, LP, and EQ, so I figured I would just go with the one that looked better which is Pioneer.

>I can't speak for the Hifonics brand

I was looking at some other sub amps, what do you think about the Precision Power ICE2600.1D?

As for the wire, is 4 gauge not enough for running 600 watts? I'm a bit lost on all of the things I would need if I would try to put a kit together like that.

> build the port large enough to keep down port velocity

Yea I tried to keep velocity below 25 m/s and will for sure make sure the actual interior volume is 1.25ft3.

> No amp is listed for the components

I'm planning to get this amp for the components. It does 95w at 2ohms but doesn't have a hpf, so would using a hpf on the HU be ok for that?

Thanks for the help, it's greatly appreciated!

Ok, what I'm thinking now is a system that looks like this: http://imgur.com/nQEW57b

Would this work? Would it output strangely because the soundbar wants to have a left and right side, so it would be a bad center? I'd really like to use it because I think it sounds pretty good and I already paid for it.. you know. In hindsight maybe I shouldn't have, but too late now.

The speaker to line converter I was looking at was this:
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SLC4-Speaker-Level-Converter/dp/B000BFL52Q

I know its made for auto use, but it shouldn't matter. It will handle 80W, which is the maximum output of the receiver I was looking at:
http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-NR515-7-2-Channel-Network-Receiver/dp/B0077V88VI

I can get that for $100 less refurbed on ebay. Not too expensive and it will allow me room to expand my system as I save up a bit, assuming everything I have come up with here works. I'm having a bit of a hard time finding a receiver with zone 2 being preamps, they seem to all be powered.

Edit: Other solution would be to run the soundbar as L+R and turn the center off I guess. Are there any issues I should be aware of with using the speaker to line converter? I also have input options of Optical Audio and HDMI if those would be potentially easier to convert to.

NAD amplifiers (C 326BEE) have a pre-out, for example.

And I know you mentioned you wanted an all in one solution, but you could go the separates route (preamp with headphone amplifier and power amp) and it wouldn't really take much more space than a single integrated amp.

Finding a cost effective pre locally isn't easy though and you will be better off ordering online: an Emotiva PT-100 would be ideal, and you could pair it with either their A100, which is pretty small, or an Onkyo M5010, for a total cost below $500.

I really don't know enough about sound to know what 1, 2, or 4 ohm subs really mean, my friend just said 2 ohm is easy, sounds good, and is pretty cheap. Is there an LOC you'd recommend for a pretty low price as well?

 

I also saw this precision power amp for not much more, would this be a better purchase?

OK, here's a couple of creative options:

Woofers to pick from:

• 1pr SSA Evil 6.5 - $90 (my favorite of the bunch)
  
• 1pr Tymphany NE180W-04 6.5 - $180 (my second favorite of the bunch)
  
• 1pr CDT HD-M6 - $260
  
• 1pr CDT CL-69s - $170
  
  Midranges to pick from:
  
  
• 1pr Tymphany 4" midrange - $130 (my favorite of the bunch)
  
• 1pr Morel MSW 114 4" midrange - $160 (my second favorite of the bunch)
  
• 1pr CDT HD 3" midrange - $160
  
• 1pr CDT ES 3" midrange - $170
  
• 1pr CDT CL 4" midrange - $70
  
• 1pr Eminence Alpha 4" midrange - $30
  
  
  Tweeters to pick from:
  
  
• 1pr SSA Evil Tweeters - $90 (my favorite of the bunch)
  
• 1pr Tang Band 1" Tweeters - $60 (my second favorite of the bunch)
  
• 1pr CDT HD-1/BL Tweeters - $190
  
• 1pr NVX XSPTW Tweeters - $130
  
  
  Amps I'd recommend for a 3 way setup (need both of them to support all 6 speakers):
  
  
• 1x precision power P600.2 - $117 (for woofers, has proper crossover functions for this setup)
  
• 1x precision power P900.4 - $165 (for mids and tweeters, has proper crossover functions for this setup)

In terms of a DAC, I run a Schiit Fulla 2, which is an amp/dac combo for 100USD. I know Fiio also offers something similar at the same price.

I have my computer hooked up via USB to my Fulla. The DAC output (on the back) is then connected to my '86 RX-9V that I got for 200 bucks, and I use the 1/4" jack that is already on the Fulla for my headphones since it also functions as an amp.

There are a lot if low-budget USB DACs out there that you could hook to the receiver. You will need to invest in cables and such though, so it's hard for me to say if the way I did it was the cheapest way, but for the performance I get, I feel like I have spent a relatively small amount.

You could easily get an old receiver for around 50 bucks, then spend the other 50 on a small entry-level USB DAC (like this or this), and hook them up with a 3.5mm to RCA (or whatever termination you need for whatever receiver you get). It won't be the most powerful or best sounding system in the world, but it will get the job done.

I'll be the first to agree that Pioneer definitely isn't the ideal choice of brand, but it makes for more possibilities when on a budget. I personally prefer JL XD amps, but they aren't exactly affordable either. If you want to find the best amp in terms of performance for the dollar, I continued searching and found This Rockford Although I don't know if you'd be willing to try a second Rockford at this point.

If you can afford it the rockford is worlds better in sound quality and will put out more (clean) power. If you want to go more budget though


https://www.amazon.com/American-Bass-Ph1600md-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B009XUMV82/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=American+bass+1600&qid=1557493306&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I'm running this currently and it does around 850wrms and is a great value. If you have the money though go rockford im only using it cause I'm waiting on my rockford to get repaired lol.

Kicker is pretty over priced and doesnt always make rated power.

As far as your sub amp goes, here are some possibilities. I'm sticking to Amazon since your other products are listed there, so I'm assuming it's easier for you to buy from there.

Alpine MRP-M500 - at 4ohms this amp will provide 300 RMS. Perfect match for your sub.

Rockford Fosgate R500-1 - at 4 ohms this amp will give you 350 RMS. A bit over your subs rating but given box rise and stuff it will be fine.

JL Audio JX500 - Again, 300 RMS @ 4 ohms.

SoundQubed Q1-750 - 300 RMS @ 4 ohms. Great company too.

Audiopipe APSM-1300 - 300 RMS @ 4 ohms. Budget brand but given your application, it should be fine.


Then for your speaker amp:

Alpine MRP-F300
- 50 RMS x 4 channels @ 4 ohms. Half the rated rms of the speakers but it will still work.

JL JX360/4
- 70 RMS x 4 channels @ 4 ohms

Alpine MRX-F35 - 60 RMS x 4 channels @ 4 ohms

Kicker DX400-4 - 50 RMS x 4 channels @ 4 ohms

These are just a few options that I put together quickly.

Hey guys,

I currently own an Audio-Technica AT-LP120USBHC, and I'm looking for an amplifier and two passive speakers to pair it with.

I've gotten a lot of help from the user sharkamino, and I've narrowed it down to a few choices, but I'd like to hear about which of these should I go for and why:




Speakers:


1.Polk T15 Black - 155€ or $173


2.Tannoy Eclipse 1 - 159€ or $178


3.Cambridge Audio SX-50 - 170,99€ or $191


4.SONY SS-CS5 - 175€ or $195


5.MONITOR AUDIO MR1 - 180€ or $201


Receivers:


1.YAMAHA A-S201 B - 180,90€ or $202


2.PIONEER - Stereo Amplifier - A-10-K - 188,99€ or $211


3.CAMBRIDGE AUDIO TOPAZ AM5 - 195€ or $218


4.SONY STR-DH190 - 199,99€ or $222 or


5.YAMAHA Stereo Amplifier R-S202D - 206€ or $230


6.DENON Amplifier PMA-520AE - 208€ or $232


7.PIONEER-A-10AE-S/B Integrated Amplifier - 211€ or $236


8.ONKYO Amplifier A-9010 Black/Silver - 217,99€ or $243


9.PIONEER SX-10AE-B Stereo Receiver 100W/BT - 218€ or $243



Even though the links above are from Amazon US and UK, the prices are from a local store in Portugal, where I intend on buying the setup.

Thanks in advance guys,

Have a good weekend!

Alpine SWA-12S4 BassLine Series 12" 4-ohm Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CE9682O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_WLggvb16ZJVM7


http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB1221V/Sound-Ordnance-Bass-Bunker.html

Soundstream PN1.650D Class D 650w Monoblock Picasso Nano Series Subwoofer Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008L117RK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_QMggvb00WJSNJ


KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 8 Gauge Amp Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IY3BI6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hOggvb1872SWH

$80 box, 2 x $60 subs, $110 amp, $20 wiring, total $330. Way better quality components. Recommended the same box and subs to a different user on here and they love it!

Let me know if you have any more questions or need help :)

It’s this stand for Topping amps but fits Schiit perfectly as well!

And thanks for the kind words!

Whatever you do, spend the extra money on Oxygen Free Copper 4 guage for power. If you have any issues Copper Clad Aluminum will melt and catch fire, and is just all around terrible and incredibly unsafe. I would Recommend Dual for very cheap budget amps. Also might want to look at pioneer amps as well. Boss is just complete trash no matter how you look at it. Otherwise the speakers and head unit are very solid choices.

Actualy, now that I think of it, you can get an AMAZING head unit for not much more: https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-iLX-W650-Mech-Less-Receiver-Compatible/dp/B07NQ2BRFM

If your budget can afford it, you can get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW7Z8NI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer+5+channel+amp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5 or if you just need power for the sub then https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW8V8CD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer%2B5%2Bchannel%2Bamp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5&th=1

And with OFC, you can use one size smaller due to higher quality, so this wiring kit will be ideal for your uses: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ofc+8+guage&qid=1571410941&s=electronics&sr=1-4

Depends on what you want, I have a 16' SmokerCraft and didn't really want to install speakers into the sides or floors because in most locations it would take up the little storage space I have.

I ended up ordering two pairs of these speakers and mounting them on the deck (two on the stern deck on each side, and one on the bow in deck in the center)

Then I mounted this Kenwood bluetooth amplifier under my dash and installed the remote on my dash (I actually made a custom dash to rearrange gauges and support a Lowrance unit, so I added a spot for the remote)


I don't have any good pictures that show the speakers, so I will try and snag one or two when I get home from work if you'd like. This setup has been awesome so far and for the price of the speakers they actually sound perfect (for the use case). You won't be able to hear very well while driving, but for trolling/floating/etc. they are perfect

Not sure about just straight cables, but there are piles of usb powered DACs with RCA outputs. Really depends on your budget. uDAC3 is good, Audioengine D1 is good, Fiio E10K is good.

If your'e looking at portable amps I recommend this.

Edit: Forgot that it was a two piece set, this is the portable that goes a long with it, they work perfectly hand in hand.

I am almost done redoing the stereo system in my '03 TJ. I'll go over it a bit for some reference. Just do some research and you'll find what suits your needs best. Affordability was definitely a concern of mine.


It had the stock headunit with the 7 speaker system which is 2 roll bar pods with coaxial 5.25" speakers, 2 knee panel speakers which are component 4" and tweeters, and a 6.5" subwoofer and 75w 1ohm amp in the center console.


I bought this JVC headunit in case I ever upgraded to a 5 channel amp, 22rms 50peak x 4channels. 6 channel, 4volt preamp output.


I replaced the knee panel and roll bar speakers with these Skar 5.25" speakers. 22w rms 75 peak each, 90db sensitivity. I had to use adapter brackets for the knee panel speakers. All speakers/brackets worked with stock hardware and covers. I tried to use baffles for the knee panel speakers but they would not fit behind the speaker. Perhaps I need to cut them down and glue them on, but I instead used polyfill behind like a blanket. I also stuffed the pods halfway or so along the edges. I used low volume door threshold foam along the edge of the pod speakers to seal it.

I added these Skar 1" tweeters to the dash corners. 20rms 80peak each, 88db sensitivity. They are at the bottom corners of my windshield screwed into the trim panel. I soldered them to the knee panel speakers in parallel. They were an afterthought, so I'm not sure if the wiring matches up but they play music.

I replaced the stock subwoofer with this Skar 6.5" DVC subwoofer. 200rms 400peak, 83.1db sensitivity. It's wired at 1 ohm to the stock amp and supposedly only getting 75w. The stock enclosure required heavy modification for the speaker to fit, lots of breaking, melting, and shaping of the plastic housing and center console. Used high volume foam to seal around the speaker. I get a bit of distortion at high volume, plan on getting a mono amp and tuning my sub individually. Also need to line the edges with a bit of polyfill. I've read the arguments, I'm going to test it.

I havent had the chance to take the doors or top off, its still winter in the Rockies, so idk how it'll sound. Probably pretty good. Feel free to ask any questions.

Edit: this is the mono amp I plan on purchasing

If you can, find someone that sells Hybrid gear and take a demo of the imagine, unity and clarus lines (it's my favorite sound atm).

While there, demo with and without a solid 4ch amp. It looks like without jbl, it's a fairly basic affair to swap speakers out.

I do agree that without an amp, your sound upgrade won't be great as that factory deck might put out about 10w a channel rms. I was actually torn on whether to just recommend trying a micro amp first or go all in. I decided to go all in, so this would be what I'd spend $1000 on:

HAT Unity 6.5 comp $430

Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 $160

at least front door sound treatment $60

So that's $650 and leaves you room for install labor plus a small amp kit for power/ground. That should be a solid set up with good midbass and a fair amount of musical accuracy, too. Heck, you could step up to the clarus line (I prefer that of the three mentioned) and only be at $850

i have installed these in a few cars at work and they sound pretty good. http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-C2-650-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B0036D1DQI not terribly expensive either. a good 2 or 4 channel amp would eb nice for this. say like thsi one: http://www.amazon.com/KICKER-DX400-4-4-Channel-Series-Amplifier/dp/B004UWLRJ2

just a few thoughts.

Disclaimer, I'm into very high end car audio, so this might be overkill.

I would not recommend using the cutout in the rear deck if it is available, which it isn't. Definitely no cutout there. You would be much better off putting a little ten inch sealed box in the trunk. Shouldn't take up much space at all, and will sound much better. You get into some weird issues putting aftermarket subwoofers in stock rear deck locations anyways, most subwoofers can't be run in an "infinite baffle" set up like that.


Here is a very decent system for under $600

Front Speakers $140


Subwoofer $130


Subwoofer Box $35


Amplifier $170


LOC $100


Budget a minimum of $200 for install.


This will be a killer system. Super clean and plenty loud. The four channel amp's two rear channels can be bridged to power the subwoofer. Trust me, you don't need rear speakers.

You can also install the subwoofer and amps where the spare tire goes, just get AAA.

Those MA bronze's are very nice speakers but the KEF's are nicer still. Both would work well for music and home theater viewing although the KEF's will likely be more difficult to find a matching center speaker for later if thats a consideration.

I wouldnt touch non working electronics unless you know how to fix them. That particular one is close to 20 years old. Any of these would be great for around 150...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Denon-PMA520AE-Integrated-Amplifier-Black/dp/B007Y3OBAQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502723835&sr=8-3&keywords=integrated+amplifier

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pioneer-10-K-50W-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B0082JFKPQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1502723835&sr=8-6&keywords=integrated+amplifier

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Marantz-PM5005-Integrated-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LUKN2C2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502723835&sr=8-1&keywords=integrated+amplifier

Hi! I just recently discovered that there is better quality music than what I had been experiencing and I'm hoping to start out a nice setup. I was thinking of buying the Nuforce uDac3 (link below if you are not familiar with it) and I was wondering if this is enough. I have a few pairs of nice headphones (audio Technica ath-900x, Sennheiser hd598, brainwavs hm5). Do I need to buy new headphones/speakers too? I mainly listen to rap/hip-hop with an emphasis on Eminem​.

NuForce uDAC3 Mobile USB DAC and Headphone Amplifier (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FG9MJ6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MUq6ybMNCCGAQ

OK great. I got the lepai lp2020a+ amp going right now for the speakers. I'm finding if I want to use it for movies a remote would be good. How does this amp

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0073WTG6M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420067262&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=41J7Q03YzxL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40


Compare to the one I currently have?

This Rockford Fosgate amp would work well. A good bargain is the American Bass amp, but they charge $20 extra for a remote.

Also check Google for the best prices on whatever amp you're looking for.

What you want is to wire the subs in parallel to 2 ohms, and that amp (or something similar) will produce 500 watts rms.

I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.

My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.

*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**

• 2012 Nexus 7 - 1st gen
  
• Timur's USB ROM - in FI mode
  
• Typical Apps...
  
  
• Joycon CPJexr(CarPc Joycon Exr), converts steering wheel input into Keyboard strokes recognizable by the tablet. LINK
  
• Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 - 300watt amp with Molex input/output LINK
  
• USB Dual 80mm Fans with protective grill - LINK
  
• 3.5mm inline to RCA (dual channel) - LINK
  
• FiiO E10 USB DAC LINK
  
• Amazon USB hubs, cheap and easy to hack into - LINK
  
• Monoprice USB Extension Cables - LINK
  
• SanDisk Cruzer Fit 32GB - Stores Music - LINK
  
• Monoprice Micro USB OTG Adapter - LINK
  
• USB Y-Power adapter
  
• JDM 2-tone AV panel
  
• 12v to 5v DC/DC converters (You will need a couple of these, as they are from China they might be DoA)
  
• Other various adapters, and 14 ga wire for all of this to work..
  
  I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.
  
  
• [OD] - 4" x 7" x 5.75"
  
• [x 1] - 4" x 7"
  
• [x 2] - 6.5" x 5.5"
  
• [x 2] - 4" x 5.5"
  
  Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.
  
  
  
  
  

Thanks so much for this review, Zeos. Very very happy for the heads up about these quirrrrrrks.

Would love to see you check this one out: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0073WTG6M/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1KQRE5VTGP4IB&coliid=I14W5IFQGWGKMV

Sound quality is probably not there....but if the remote works better than SMSL then it could be a contender for the soundbar killer (the price is right at least).

I'm suspecting that those who would hear a difference in SQ between the two would be going for the refurb Denon on A4L anyway (size be damned!) I haven't heard Lepai though.

So I bought a used 2008 pontoon last year, and decided to do a budget update to get her ready for the new season. Tried to keep it under $1000, but the last minute decision to get a new Bimini put the project over that.
For those curious, here are the materials I used.
60' of .030 black aluminum paneling: $295 from Pontoonfence.com

Nav Lights:$20
Docking Lights: $30. I'm keeping an eye on these. Some reviews complained of them not being waterproof. I ran a bead of silicone around the lens and where the wires enter the body. Hoping they hold up.
Waterproof LED Strip Lights $40 for two sets. I'm really happy with these.
LED RGB control wires $9

Polk DB651 6.5" Speakers $118 ($59/pair)
Kenwood Marine Bluetooth Amplifier $135
Pyle Marine speaker wire $9
Engine Parts (Plugs, Impeller, Lube) $40
Power wash rental: $30

Misc expenses (mounting tape, nonskid tape, screws, bolts, etc) ~$100

Replacement Bimini and boot from restorepontoon.com $219
Total: $1,045

Hi, I need some advice with hooking up speakers to my turntable.

I'm very new to all of this and I've only brought my turntable so far. This is because I'm not entirely sure whether I need to buy a preamp and an integrated amplifier, or just one of these. I think I need the integrated amplifier regardless, and the preamp will make it sound even better but is optional. Am I correct with this or not at all?

Anyway, the turntable I have is a Denon-DP300F and I'm looking to buy a pair of Misson LX-2 speakers. I was also looking to buy a
Denon PMA520AE Integrated Amplifier with a Pro-Ject Phono Box MM Amplifier - where I would connect the two red and white cables from my turntable into the Pro-Ject Phono Box preamp, then connect that to the integrated amplifier, and then connect it to the speakers. Excuse my most likely horrible wording/terms.

Is this the correct way to go about this? Is the preamp I'm looking at buying optional or compulsory? Do I just need the integrated amplifier and not the phono box preamp?

I really, really appreciate any feedback on this because I've been reading this sub and researching everywhere and I can't find a definite answer that makes me confident about making these purchases. Thank you!

I am looking for a DAC/amp to pair with my new AKG K702 cans. Would love to stay at the 100 euro range - give or take 20€.

I have a couple of candidates - which one would be the best to go with the K702, if any? Any other recommendations?

FiiO E10K (Link)

Nuforce uDAC3 (Link)

AudioQuest - DragonFly USB DAC (Link)

Procaster DAC-03 (Link) - sorry, the manufacturer and seller is Finnish. Specs are as follows:

• 24-bit / 96 kHz audio circuit
  
  
• Output power: 350 mW @32 Ohm
  
  
• Impedance: 16-300 Ohm
  
• THD+N: 0,009 @ 1 kHz
  
  
• Signal-to-noise ratio: 110 dB
  
  
• Input: Micro-USB, for audio and power
  
  
• Output: RCA, 3.5mm
  
  

Thank you for your response. Yes I am trying to run a 4 wheel setup. My goal was to use a single 4 channel amp, but I wouldn’t be against using 2. Would an amp like this work;

Rockford Fosgate R300X4 Prime 4-Channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_125QDbAB1J0BG

I’m confused as to why there is such a huge range in prices? I intended to spend around $200 but would be willing to spend more if necessary. Is there any amps that you would recommend?

I've got a Pro-Ject Debut Carbon turntable hooked up to a Denon PMA720AE amplifier and Q Acoustics 3020 speakers. All in all, including a few other bits and bobs, the set up cost me like £750.

But, using slightly lower models of the same manufacturers you could hit that £500 mark:

• Pro-Ject Elemental
  
• Denon PMA520AE
  
• Q Acoustics 3020
  
  Obviously you're gonna wanna shop around a bit yourself and find what looks best to you as i'm no expert in the variety of equipment that is available, but I can say, for the time being at least, i'm very happy with my setup.

I hope I'm not too late to suggest this amp over that sound ordinance. Kid you not man, this little Soundstream is fantastic, and for the price its even better. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008L117RK/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?qid=1394119237&sr=8-1-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

it's a decent starter, but prolly for a couple hundred more you can seriously improve on some of your equipment.

SUBS

AMP

or you can do 1 12 in a ported box about the same size and it would sound nice as well

Both turntables have a built in phono preamps with both RCA analog and USB digital outputs.

Pass on the LP120X and Sony. A small step up from the LP120X is the Audio Technica LP5 for £10 more.

Consider first looking for a used stereo or AV recevier and used speakers.

The Sony STRDH190 or most any other receiver or integrated amp with work with just about any turntable. A better stereo receiver option is the Pioneer SX-10AE. Or integrated amps, no radio tuner, Cambridge Audio TOPAZ AM5, Onkyo A9010, Pioneer A-10, Marantz PM5005, Denon PMA520AE.

For headphone use, get a dedicated headphone amp. An inexpensive stater one is the Sabaj Audio PHA2. I don't know that else may be avialble in the UK. Try r/HeadphoneAdvice and state UK location.

Speakers on sale: Q Acoustics 3020 or Wharfedale DIAMOND 220. Or what is your speaker budget?

Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening.

Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/audiophile Guide to Home Audio • Introduction to Audio Components • What is a Phono Preamp? | Audio Advice

Also check out r/BudgetAudiophile.

the amp they suggested is fine, you could just get the same stuff off the web for super cheap

4 gauge amp kit - $32.48

line out converter - $13.02

SAE-1000D - $314.99

ported prefab - $49.99

that puts my amazon cart total at $411.39 tax included, and if you didnt want to do the amp install then buy your stuff online then take that amp/amp kit/loc to a shop and pay them to install it.

However, I would recommend a custom box rather than the prefab I recommended as you would get a lot lower bass.

I have the same setup, I also use a NuForce AMP/DAC that I can recommend right back at ya 😊

Well noted. I've heard this before and follow. A while ago I had a boss head unit and it was awful. I have a pioneer now. My amps and speakers are almost all Fosgate. 3 of these for my mids and highs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HYBG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The crossover settings on this thing were definitely a challenge to get correct. As far as having a clean sound I haven't noticed any degradation in sound from having the crossover in system vs not. At the end of the day I got my bang for my buck with this little crossover.

I got a good ear for sound but being this my 3rd build I'm still getting use to what is good and what isn't, and car audio in general.

So, right now Emotiva have a 10% off sale, which makes the AirMotiv 5 tremendous value, at $404. Link here.

While probably not my personal first choice, an amp/DAC combo that does what you want is the Fiio E9/E7. While the new E9K/E17 combo is probably "better", there's a $100 difference that brings it out of your price range. Link here - see "frequently bought together".

Finally, good speakers deserve to be placed properly - if you're planning on using them in front of a computer. If you're tight for floor space, something like these will do nicely, but if you have the floor space, something like this will probably be better.

Edit: Strike my recommendation for the E9. Its 10 ohm output impedance makes it a poor match for your HD 598's. Thing is: There are very few products in a reasonable price range that allows you to use them both as a headphone amp and a DAC - the next step up is the Nuforce Icon HDP, but that's $350.

I haven't given much thought to where I would put the amps. I was thinking about getting a Kenwood KAC-8406 for the drivers in the doors and a Kenwood KAC-9106D for the Idmaxx, but I'm open to suggestions. I'd love for you to put something together!

You could always get a 4 channel line output converter to convert speaker wire to rca. But a HU with 6+ rca outputs would be in your favor. Sub out, Rear out, Front out

https://www.amazon.com/SLC4-4-Channel-Converter-Amplifier-Adjustable/dp/B000BFL52Q/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=4+channel+line+output+converter&qid=1573677351&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-S5000BT-Compatibility-Bluetooth-Customization/dp/B07526JF15/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=4-2-QmV0d2VlbiAkNTAgYW5kICQyMDA%3D-ac_d_pm&keywords=car%2Bstereo&pd_rd_i=B07526JF15&pd_rd_r=2b2e20e3-4a81-430a-9209-334d8955226f&pd_rd_w=b6SGp&pd_rd_wg=m4dWc&pf_rd_p=02e79b16-eab7-4369-852f-d04a58a4d9b5&pf_rd_r=YG038249XGV2DVT292CQ&qid=1573677664&th=1

Most likely your HU has all audio being output through one set of rca's. Or sub only. But if it has been playing it's all audio, just needs a signal split. That's where a 4ch converter comes in handy.

As for grounding the rca's, you shouldn't have to, but I learned the hard way that they can be grounded manually by using a piece of speaker wire attaching ONLY the outer metal of the rca (not the center prong) to the stereo chassis (metal on the stereo). Here's a shitty video I found on youtube that can help.

https://youtu.be/O6B8fJ_RxFU

All in all, upgrading HU with more outputs would be your best choice

Spend $10 more and get this: http://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-Distribution-Amplifier-Antenna/dp/B002M1EPL0

I have it, it works great. Easy as pie.

Thank you! So the wiring kit you posted is good to go if I switch to that? I'll look into the head unit. And, yea I think I really just need to power the subs. I plan to wire the other speakers just from the head unit.


So updated setup -
Wiring Kit - https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ofc+8+guage&qid=1571410941&s=electronics&sr=1-4


Headunit either Pioneer or Alpine


Amp - https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW8V8CD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer%2B5%2Bchannel%2Bamp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5&th=1


Same speakers and subs.


You think that's will provide a decent quality audio experience?

Picked up a PPI ICE2600.1 amp for the sub that's going in my trailer, to go under the cabinet.

I noticed that the ICE series isn't on the r/CarAV list of recommended gear. Was it a bad purchase? I had a PPI amp for my Focal PolyKevlar components back in the day.... their prices seem to have dropped a lot.

I wanted to use my JBL 1200.1 that I used to absolutely LOVE for its power and value when I got it in 2003... unfortunately, it powers on but doesn't output sound. Anyone know if there's a good, inexpensive repair shop in the East SF Bay?

It's a Topping Dac/Amp shelf. It's not specifically for a Schiit stack but fits almost perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/Topping-14x14x4-5cm-A30-D30-Transparency/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ

Front door speakers $150

Head unit $90 plus $40 (with bundle discount) for install parts

Amp $164. Channels 1 and 2 for doors, 3+4 bridged to the sub.

Sub $150

You'll need to either build or have built for you a custom box for the sub. Off the shelf boxes do not perform well. A ported box with net volume of 1.2 cubic feet and tuning frequency of 28hz will work well for this sub. I can help you come up with a more exact design if you're wanting to build it yourself, or you can give those numbers to anyone that can build a box and they can do it. If you do it yourself it should run you around $40 in supplies. Getting one done for you would be $100-150 for something basic like this.

Nope since your sub is a dual voice coil model it will only take 1 ohm or 4 with a single sub. With 2 of them you could go with 2 ohms. If it was single voice coil it'd take a 2 ohm amp. You're correct in running it at 1 ohm as your amp is designed for it. The amp you're using is only giving 600w at 1 ohm tho. Rockford Fosgate has this amp if you want tons of power at 1 ohm (1200w) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34764_Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R1200-1D.html

This amp was discontinued and will give 1000w at 1 ohm. Sundown does put out good products and this may sound slightly cleaner than the amp above. https://www.amazon.com/SAE-1000D-Sundown-Monoblock-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00MJGGO30

I use this
I have the same headphones as you do, they drive them perfectly fine.

There was someone on /r/cordcutters that did what you want using a bunch of amplified splitters. Example:

• http://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-Distribution-Amplifier-Antenna/dp/B002M1EPL0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463589990&sr=8-6&keywords=distribution+amplifier
  
  So you would feed your antenna into one of the amplified splitters and then feed the outputs into as many of the amplified splitters as required, for up to 64 outputs.
  
  Having all those separate amplifiers isn't very reliable and would be hard to troubleshoot if one of the amplifiers failed. You would also have to find up to 9 power plugs. I would suggest you do it a bit more like the professionals do it...
  
  The idea is that you have a single more powerful amplifier attached to the antenna. Then you follow it with passive (unamplified) 8 way or even 16 way splitters. Two levels of 8 way splitters would be a loss of 11 dB + 11 dB = 22 dB so you would need at least that much gain to overcome the splitter loss. If the signals are not really strong in your area you could just get a 30 dB amp and not worry further. Here is an example of a name brand adjustable gain 35 dB amp:
  
  
• https://www.markertek.com/product/aca-35-1000/rf-system-distribution-amplifier
  
  ... and the section I found it in:
  
  
• http://www.markertek.com/category/RF-Distribution-Amplifiers
  
  What I described is a "star" topology where you need to run a separate cable to each location. There is a kind of "bus" topology available where each splitter only takes a small amount of signal off the cable. That takes more design and I have no experience with such systems.
  
  Edit: Minor clarification.

I found the other amp you recommend before the PPI for $170 on Amazon sold by woofersetc would you recommend that over the American bass?
https://www.amazon.com/P1000-1-Precision-Power-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B005KW10ES

I just want a basic system up and running and not looking to put a lot of money into the amp. Both had good ratings on Amazon. Can you recommend something better in the sub-$150 range? I was considering this Kenwood but thought it might be underpowered for the setup. https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-Compact-Automotive-Marine-Amplifier/dp/B00UTXQL74/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491949249&sr=1-7&keywords=class+d+4+channel+amplifier+car&refinements=p_72%3A1248879011

Thoughts?

• What are your goals for your car audio system - as loud as possible (SPL)? Sound quality (SQ)? Some combination of both? Describe to us how you want your system to sound.
  
  

• Combination of SQ and SPL
  
  ---
  

• What vehicle? - year, make, model, type (coupe, sedan, SUV, truck, etc.)
  
  

• 2004 Volvo S60 Sedan
  
  ---
  

• What is your maximum budget? (either all at once or over time as budget allows)
  
  

• Since i'm only looking for the sub itself at the moment to install in my 33hz ported box, around $200
  
  ---
  

• Will you be installing the gear or will you have it installed by someone else, such as at a shop? If a shop is doing the work, does your budget include cost of installation?
  
  

• Myself
  
  ---
  

• What gear is in your existing system? (Is it stock? List any aftermarket gear. If upgrading, list previously installed equipment)
  
  

• I have a avh pionner head unit, one jbl speaker amp, one 2000w kenwood amp, one 15' XFL 1522, 33hz ported box *I know i should fabricate my own box but that will be a future project, and one capacitor with a digital meter with 4 gauge wire traveling from that to my kenwood amp.
  
  ---
  

• What is your country of purchase? Leave any finishing thoughts here that you may feel are necessary and beneficial to the discussion.
  
  

• USA

Morel Maximo component set - $150 shipped

Kenwood ddx374BT - $220 shipped. Comes with $40 off the dash kit you might need

Fi Alpha 12 v2 - $180 with the "Dual 2 Xmax" option (absolutely necessary), plus shipping.

Rockford 750.1d - $223 shipped. These are underrated little tanks.

Knukonceptz OFC 4awg kit - $60 shipped.

Other supplies (wood, glue, wire harness) - $70

Total - $903. This would be ideal. However, if you need to skimp on something, you can get these options instead:
Hertz dsk component set - $115

RF p2d2 12" sub - $104

Alpine single din HU with BT - $161

PPI monoblock amp - $132

New total - $642 plus up to $70 for the dash kit, so $712. If you get the PPI amp and RF sub, run it at 4 ohms.

thanks for the help, I actually found this on craigslist for $100 and it turned out it didn't fit in what the guy got it for so he wanted to get rid of it.

Please give the exact model name. Are they the SWS-10D2? If so they handle 500W RMS @ 2 ohms. If you have 2, then that means you want an amp that handles 1000W RMS @ 2 ohms wired like this or direct. An affordable amp that meets these specs is the Kenwood KAC-9106D.

1. Yes, all you have to do is split the signal. However, you may need a distribution amplifier to overcome the signal loss. Channel Master CM3418 8-Port Distribution Amplifier for Cable and Antenna Signals
   
   
2. Yes, they can. You don't have to watch the same channel at all. It works just like analog cable, NTSC OTA, or ClearQAM cable. No boxes required.
   
   
3. That's very dependent upon your area. Anything from a rabbit ears attached to a distribution amplifier, to a Channel Master CM 3020, hooked up to a Channel Master CM-7777 Titan 2 Antenna Preamplifier,, mounted to a Channel Master CM 9521A Antenna Rotator.
   
   Go to TV Fool and pull a report for your address. It will tell you what type of setup you need. for your location, and where to point your antenna.

If you want an amp, the Fiio E7/E9 Combo is really nice.

If you don't mind spending $100 for an amp ... get one like this instead:

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487092657&sr=8-2&keywords=alpine+amp

https://www.amazon.com/Clarion-XC1410-4-Channel-Class-D-Amplifier/dp/B00B43LKV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487092715&sr=8-1&keywords=clarion+xc1410

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T163SY

Those are all so small you can mount them behind the dash, which means you can just hook it right into the factory wire harness speaker leads.

Yeah, you got it. I have two RP3's, one running the Plex media server, with an external 512GB SSD, and the other running RasPlex. They are connected together via the LAN cable. I then have an HDMI-to-RCA adapter. I will run the RCAs to the aux input in my Honda Odyssey minivan. That allows me set that as a source for the rear TV. I also have a nice little Lenovo remote control that the kids can use to navigate.

Since the RP3's also have wifi, I am going to setup Rsync to check for new content from my main media PC in the house and download anything new while connected to the wifi (typically when I am loading the kids into the van, takes waaay too long).

The last piece of the puzzle was enabling it to turn on and off with the ignition, but also do a controlled shutdown so as not to corrupt the SD cards.

I'll be taking pics when I get it all together.

Not an expert*

How about these:

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-6-5-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1380826199&sr=8-2&keywords=db6501

And then a 50w x4 amp, maybe this :

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R300X4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYBG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1380826462&sr=8-4&keywords=50x4+amp

Just a starter suggestion.

You'd also need a wiring kit for the amp. Knukonceptz is your friend.

It does everything I need it to. It really is crazy that it's only $20. The extra input jack is great because you can hook up a powered sub there. I did see comments of people complaining about the weak power supply, so I got the higher power supply. But I'm not entirely sure it would have been necessary. I only have it turned a bit past 25%, which is adequate. If I had to do it over again I would have gotten this lepai, for the remote and extra inputs. But I can't really fault it because I desire home theatre features. It does its job well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 :)

I've got my eye on a weather-resistant amplifier, and replacements for the 4 factory speakers in hand.

We should see how the radio was connected to the amp, the problems with the Bose amps arise when connected though the RCAs of the HU, it seems counterintuitive but you get better sound using the speaker outs since they are balanced and the amp inputs too, you can use a level converter designed for Bose if the signal is too high.

that amp is just over rated ... its the same as the soundstream picasso nano, and the precision power ion series

good on a budget

$165 Amp

$155 Sub

$35 Box


$60 Wire

Can get the subwoofer down to $132 if you're new to Jet... that brings you to $400 or so. The upside here is it'll sound good without going to a custom box. Plenty of output.

Need a decent alternator for ~1200w draw

Stereo receivers sure. All something needs to be a "stereo amp" is just a two channel amplifier.

Stereo Amplifier Example Also known as a power amp.

Stereo Receiver example.

EDIT: Receivers have an amplifier built in 99% of the time. This is a rectangles are not squares scenario.

Just around $1000:

http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Reference-Series-Floorstanding-Loudspeaker/dp/B0041578BE/

http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-M-5010-2-Channel-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00A8EIO2E/

Or throw in a sub like the Dayton Sub-1200 if you can.

It looks like it may be the topping acrylic shelf, people use it with the Schiit stack.

Topping 14x14x4.5cm for A30 D30 Amplier Shelf Transparency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WZ8XBbSDEN6DV

what if i just threw in a not-so-great 4 channel amp like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-R300X4-Prime-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYBG/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1482646243&sr=1-3&keywords=4+channel+amp

I know about the cabling parts, what I think i need is Something like this piece. Correct?

Back on Amazon found mine on eBay here's the Amazon link.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_26SCDbCBPXX50

Make sure it covers VHF and UHF frequencies. If you're doing eight or fewer apartments, consider this one from Amazon.

Also, get an antenna that does both VHF High and UHF as some of yours are on VHF High...

There's also an acrylic rack for that stack too: https://www.amazon.com/Topping-14x14x4-5cm-A30-D30-Transparency/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/

The Schitt stack also fits in this rack as well as the JDS Atom amp.

Thanks but I don't want to splice the factory harness.

I am gearing towards using an adapter and a LOC to do the job.
Could you confirm if I can use the Metra 70-8112 harness and the Scosche SLC4 Line output converter to get the job done? I think this is going to work but I'll be using the factory amp.

This is what the youtube video was about.

It's a Sony XAV-AX100 You'll need this Metra Kit to fit the new stereo. If you have a Bose system you'll either need to bypass the Amp or get a line level converter. I started with the line level converter, the sound is better than the stock system but still not great. I plan on getting a new amp and speakers eventually. I just wanted bluetooth and Android Auto to start.

Kenwood 1177524 Compact Automotive/Marine Amplifier Class D Kac-M1824BT, 180W RMS, 400W PMPO, 4 Channel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UTXQL74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9EIyCbTV64W3B

You could even splice it in to your existing wiring. Tuck it up under the dash or somewhere out of site. Turn on the factory stereo for cassette tapes, leave it off and crank up the bluetooth if you're feeling digital.

The HD650's have a really high impedance (650ohm), so it probably wouldn't have enough ooomph to push them.

Fiio has a separate amp that you can dock with, but it's kind of ugly, see here:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M172FY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004M172FY&linkCode=as2&tag=nocor04-20

Basically the E7 or E17 would sit in there and get a boost.

I haven't researched the higher-outputting dac+amp combos - you might have to buy separately. I'd post this question on head-fi.org - they are the most useful people around for these matters.

Channel Master CM3418 8-Port Distribution Amplifier for Cable and Antenna Signals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M1EPL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_tYNtpDLRWC5yC

Topping 14x14x4.5cm for A30 D30 Amplier Shelf Transparency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_91DyDbM7Q8D07

I'm looking at this one and this one

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fiio e7+e9 amp combo It's a Headphone amplifier

I have this in one of my XJ’s the control head can be mounted nearly anywhere. You can make a radio delete plate and use it for switches or gauges.

Kenwood RCM1824BT

Or there’s these things that will pop into a contura switch hole. You have to supply your own amp though.

Bluetooth Switch

I'm gonna need a link because I can't find it

EDIT: found it

https://www.amazon.com/Topping-14x14x4-5cm-Amplier-Shelf-Transparency/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ

Would this work?

Topping 14x14x4.5cm for A30 D30 Amplier Shelf Transparency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_OwIMDbG4TDK4S

https://www.amazon.com/Soundstream-PN1-650D-Monoblock-Picasso-Amplifier/dp/B008L117RK

I used this to power my subwoofer when I had a car.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF9BTDK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apis_1502985702641

Found this on Amazon, what do you think? https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KAC-9106D-2000W-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B00IF9BTDK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=1000%2Bwatt%2Brms%2Bmono%2Bamp&qid=1574539956&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

You need a DA

Channel Master CM3418 8-Port Distribution Amplifier for Cable and Antenna Signals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M1EPL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SpTXzb68SA15G

So after doing a bit of research, i'm currently looking at these items:

CD player: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007Y3OBOC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A16D1Q3U7G1XSE

Amp: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007Y3OBAQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

Turntable: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003BPNCLU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A16D1Q3U7G1XSE

and my yamaha ns-266s

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003N0XDT4/ref=redir_mdp_mobile my preferred amp, and also means that if you upgrade to some high impedance headphones you can always grab http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004M172FY/ref=redir_mdp_mobile to attach it to later on.

I'll argue the amp. If you've got more than about 2 outlets, the amp is the way to go - TV distribution systems are built on these. Every time you insert one of those cheap splitters you cut the signal by more than half. Here's what I use for 5 active outlets and one antenna. No splitters - everything gets a solid signal direct from the amp.

Hi, I am looking for speakers for my bedroom (preferably bookshelf due to limited space) with an amp that can sit on my desk that I can connect my Laptop and phone to.

Max Budget: £300

I have found these, what do you think?

Denon PMA520AE £129.95

Q ACOUSTICS Q2010I £129.95

Thanks, for the input. Say I added a used $125
Fosgate R600x5
(craigslist)
or a new R300x4. Do you think there are a pair of component speakers that could do "good" without a sub?

I guess if I have an amp, at that point setting up a sub wouldn't be too bad at that point, but I'm worried I won't be happy with the amount of space it takes up.

Think it would be possible to "replace" a woofer with some more bass-heavy speakers in the rear?