(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best gps system accessories

I think you mean 2019 CR-V? I don't think the 2020 is out yet.

I posted a list here but i'll refresh it a bit for you.

• Screen Guard rating: Excellent - less than $10
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVYHZV9/
  
  The flat screen display is so big and flat and shiny I thought a screen protector was a very good idea. I'm afraid that over time dust and grit and cleaning will leave visible scratches on that big screen. I just randomly picked a flat glass cover for < $10 on amazon. Fits perfectly, can't really tell it is on. It is a bit polarized so if you have sunglasses on it makes the screen a little harder to read, but not unreadable.
  
  
• OEM Splash Guards rating: Pretty Good - About $70
  
  I think the default wheel wells look kind of plain so I added on the OEM ones. They are a little small if you are looking for real splash guards but cosmetically I think they look nice. They give the CR-V a bit more of a truck look. Super easy to self install, you just put three screws in on each wheel well.
  
  
• OEM Body Side Moldings rating: Excellent - About $155
  
  These are just color-matched plastic strips you stick on the side of the car. I like the finished look, and it definitely upscales the overall look of the car. Super easy to self-install. It comes with a cardboard template for each section that you tape onto the car, then you just peel off the self-stick adhesive and stick on the panel.
  
  
• OEM Cargo Tray rating: Excellent - About $80
  
  I had this on my last CR-V and I think it's a no-brainer to cover up the carpet in the back. Perfect fit, the plastic seems like it will last a while.
  
  
• OEM Cargo Organizer rating: Good - About $55
  
  This is just a soft-sided box with dividers that straps and clips into the retaining clips in the back. I do find it nice for tossing in groceries and other things that would otherwise roll around. It feels kind of cheap though and I think for the price there's probably some better third party product out there. That said it is stable and fits well, and you can unclip it and fold it flat quickly if you don't need it.
  
  
• Roll-up sunshade (third party) rating: Excellent - About $23
  
  Find it on this page: https://www.handa-accessories.com/crv17.html
  
  This is just a nice fitted sunshade from Handa Accessories. It's got a cut-out for the sensor camera and fits perfectly. Must have in hot climates if you don't want to burn your hands after leaving the car in the sun.
  
  
• OEM All Season Mats Blue Logo rating: meh - About $122
  
  These are thick rubber and they fit well, but the rubber is very slippery so my feet move around, and I don't love the look, especially with my Beige leather interior. In retrospect I think I would have gone for weathertech or some other third party mats in a different color and texture. I ended up throwing these out and I'm still on the carpet ones.
  
  
• OEM Rear Panel Protectors rating: Excellent - About $66
  
  I think the rear panel protectors are a good purchase in order to keep the back of the car nice and tidy. It's a good look and prevents scratches when getting stuff in and out.
  
  
• Third party Door Scuff Plates rating: Excellent - About $28
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BSQDQH5/
  
  You have these on your touring doors but I wanted something similar for my EX-L. Not backlit but looks like factory.
  
  
• Third party Bumper Protector rating: Excellent - About $63
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P88CPT/
  
  Nice protector for the bumper. Happens to have a similar hexagon pattern to the scuff plates above, so looks good together.
  
  
• Third party cupholder and console liners rating: Excellent - About $15
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078MRYNXQ/
  
  These are great! Covers for every single surface inside the car. I got black but there are other color options.
  
  
  I used Handa Accessories for the OEM stuff. I used them with my last CR-V as well and I haven't had any issues. (other than the issue above with the missing panel protector, which they fixed very quickly.) There is also Majestic https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com . Either Handa or Majestic will be much much cheaper than your local dealer.

I believe [removed] means the mods removed it, not the user

Here's the post from google cache by /u/xtraveler192

>
> I've installed a bunch of accessories and thought I'd write up some quick notes. No reason for long reviews on most of these products.
>
> ​
>
> Wireless Charging Pad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q9L6DJN/
>
> -- Fits in nicely, but doesn't seem to support fast charging despite contact with the seller. (Yes, I've connected it to a QC 3.0 Adapter for fast charging)
>
> -- Might return it and just go wired charging with a QC 3.0 Power Bank.
>
> -- Still undecided
>
> ​
>
> Front/ Rear Seat Floor Mats: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0792RW471/
>
> Picture: https://imgur.com/a/wr6sC87
>
> -- I first thought they looked cheap, but once installed the lines are so clean it fits seamlessly
>
> -- The hexagon shape is great for catching dirt, verus having it slide around the mat before it hits the edges
>
> -- Highly recommend
>
> ​
>
> Center Console/ Cup Holder Liner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FN6X5QS/
>
> -- Fits really nicely, easy to remove and clean, keeps everything from sliding around
>
> -- Highly recommend for a basic liner, splash of color
>
> ​
>
> Trunk/Frunk Liner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KZJMV5V/
>
> Pic: https://imgur.com/a/ZHTkrSn
>
> -- Clean lines, easy install, but doesn't fully cover every inch of the trunk space
>
> -- Tougher to get to lower compartment with items in trunk, but a small inconvenience
>
> -- Recommend for the price
>
> ​
>
> Door Open Stickers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MXYBPYH/
>
> Pic: https://imgur.com/a/cpn0QB7
>
> -- Day 1 & 2 showing people the car they all pulled emergency handle before I could catch them
>
> -- Since installing this no issues, and most people think it's a factory decal
>
> -- Highly recommend
>
> ​
>
> USB for DashCam/ Sentry Mode: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7PDLXC/
>
> -- Everything has been great so far, plenty of storage
>
> -- I followed this instruction and had no issues at all: https://teslatap.com/articles/usb-flash-drives-for-tesla-dashcam/
>
> -- I formatted using GUIFormat (link in article) and it was quick and easy
>
> -- Recommended
>
> ​
>
> Key Card Holder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QPKW4Y9/
>
> Pic: https://imgur.com/a/0uCNAtc
>
> -- I don't like Tesla's phone connection, since I can't get text messages or any notifications, so I use my card often
>
> -- Placing this on top of the console wrap (see below), seems pretty seemless and prevents my card from sliding around
>
> -- Recommend for those that use the card often, or might use valet
>
> ​
>
> White Carbon Fiber Center Console Wrap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MHYLGD7/
>
> Pic: https://imgur.com/a/8KGLycF
>
> -- This is awesome, take your time with install, the videos on evwraps.com are prefect and very clear
>
> -- The one mistake I made noone notices, so I don't point out (cup holder piece is the hardest to install FYI)
>
> -- BUY THIS NOW!!! (Especially if you have the white interior, I think it's the best accessory I have
>
> ​
>
> Screen Protector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKGDC5M/
>
> -- Easy install, it basically suctioned itself to the screen after placing 1 corner
>
> -- My fingers slide easily on the screen, and cleaning it is a breeze
>
> -- Highly recommend, can't beat the price
>
> ​
>
> Center Console Organizer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M8NRLV8/
>
> Pic: https://imgur.com/a/kC8CTCx
>
> -- Great organizer, great price, easy to pop in and out
>
> -- Make sure you put the organizer in, and then lower the phone holder, reverse order to take it out
>
> -- Highly recommended
>
> ​
>
> Dash Phone Holder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RVB24W1/
>
> -- I bought this to wireless charge and use Waze (normally key for my commute)
>
> -- It didn't fit well on the dash, and the cable run was going to get in the way of the clean interior lines
>
> -- Not recommended
>
> ​
>
> I'll answer questions that come up.
>
> (I wish I had set up an Amazon Associate Account to get a cut of these products, lol)
>

Theoretically it's awesome, if manufacturers only made USB 3.1 gen 2 or USB 3.1 with TB3 cables. Or colorcoded their cables/ports like what happened with USB 3, but they don't. Which means shit's not gonna work even if it fits.

You got at least

• USB 2.0
  
• USB 3.0
  
• USB 3.1 gen 1
  
• USB 3.1 gen 2
  
• USB 3.1 with Thunderbolt 3
  
  The Type C spec also have support for "Alternate mode" which can be used to transmit Displayport, MHL, HDMI or some other signals. Actually even Thunderbolt 3 is USB-C Alternate mode so you could technically have a Type-C 2.0 connector, with full Thunderbolt 3 support, this would be retarded but the spec allows it. Since no one actually does it, and for practical purposes TB3 is just USB 3.1 gen 2 on steroids now, it's easier to put it in it's own category.
  
  And your port, device and cable need to support whatever speed and version you're using. Just slapping any old type C cable on something does not mean it will work. The biggest issue is that every single USB-C cable looks practically identical. There's not really a way to tell 3.1 gen 2 cable apart from 3.1 gen 1 cable with Displayport support. At least for your average consumer.
  
  I mean seriously look at this shit.
  
  One, Two, Three, four different cables.
  
  All of them look practically identical, all of them fit in any USB-C slot. All four of them are completely different.
  
  The first one is your standard USB 2.0 only capable of 480 mbps, no video support, slow as shit, can't be used to charge your fancy new Macbook, will charge a phone but probably doesn't have quickcharge support.
  
  The seconds one is a 3.1 gen 2 type C cable. That can actually be used for charging, can reach up to 10 gbps transfer speed and support displayport/hdmi in alternate mode.
  
  The third one is a USB 3.1 gen 2 with Thunderbolt 3, the best of the bunch. Supports everything! Except as you can see on the store page, there are 20 and 40 gbps variants. Some TB accessories might require 40 gbps speeds, so if you buy the 20gbps cable, it might not work. And because it looks exactly the same as the 40gbps cable, there's no easy way to even tell which one you have.
  
  The final one is a USB 3.0 cable supporting 5 gbps, no video streams, probably supports quick charging.
  
  ----------------------------------------
  
  Now if your average consumer saw four identical cables side by side in a store, do you think they would know which one to pick? Or would they just grab the cheapest one?
  
  Or what about accessories? USB-C hubs are all over the place now thanks to the new Macbook Pro, some of those hubs require TB3 compatibility. Most require USB 3.1 gen 2 compatibility. A lot of computer have USB-C 3.0 ports. So a lot of those hubs won't work.
  
  So even though theoretically one cable to do everything would be awesome, that's not actually the case. We have different cables for different things, now they all just look exactly the fucking same making this shit way more confusing than it actually needs to be.

I don't know how many Hobby Electronics people we have in here but typically speaking when you develop a product you use someone else's transition tech. They make it super easy to integrate into electronics. You can do any of this with an Arduino now if you want to see how easy it is. And there are tons of options out there and just a super quick search on amazon shows they carry quite a few. Bellow is a few links to some kits you can buy off amazon right now. These kits let you link over Bluetooth or RF or even Wi-fi. So I don't really think valve would waist the time to make a completely new method of wireless communication for their hardware when so much is readily available that is reliable. Also when it comes to wireless transmission you only have a certain band of radio waves you can use commercially and they are all already used. I took apart a wireless Wi-Mote and it had one of these chips soldered right into the board. You can also see these chips soldering into the sixense as well. It is super common to do this. Also I think everyone here knows the PS3 and PS4 both use Bluetooth for their controller, you can even pair them with the Gear VR. So it is highly unlikely that valve has anything special here.

Low Power Bluetooth

RF-Transmitter

Normal Bluetooth

Wi-Fi connection


So In Short;
I don't think valve would waist their time making a custom wireless system. I would think they want this to be as universal as possible.

Thanks! It’s been a work in progress for years but basically, I use microphone stand parts combined with Ram Mount parts. The main method of holding the device is magnetic. I use a Ram Mount magnet for that which I will link to.

From there, you pick the Ram Mount socket arm that you like. Then you need a ball to put in the socket. That’s where I convert to the microphone mount so some kind of adapter to get the ball attached to the microphone mount.

You would have to configure what kind of microphone arm you want for your bed. I used a Rode PSA1 for the tablet holder. The PSA1 has some quirks for this application but I like it. The mount on the right holds my phone and that one uses a standard gooseneck microphone holder attached to a boom arm. Then you have to figure out a way to attach the boom arm to the headboard. I use a microphone table mount that I screw on.

These links are just to give you an idea of what I used in this configuration and they aren’t the best prices around because I just shared the links from previous purchases. If you end up wanting to design something like this, send me a message and I can help if you have questions. I have about 6 other mounts that I’ve made around the house for various chairs, tables, etc.

All this is possible because Ram Mounts makes great stuff! I love them.

https://www.rammount.com

RAM MOUNTS (RAM-B-202-339U 2.5" Round Base with The Amps Hole Pattern, 1" Ball and Triple Magnetic Base Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFDNPIE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YzLODbJ8TFX1Y

Ram Mount Composite Short Double Socket Arm for 1-Inch Ball Bases https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KWPJ04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vBLODbKC5SB84

Ram Mount 1/4-Inch-20 Female Threaded Hex Hole with 1-Inch Ball https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLW1PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tELODbJJ9JHXP

SUNMNS 27 Pieces 1/4 Inch and 3/8 Inch Converter Female Male Threaded Screws Adapter Mount Set for Camera/Tripod/ Monopod/Ballhead/ Light Stand/Shoulder Rig https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CQY5QF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rGLODbZRKM5S0

RODE PSA 1 Swivel Mount Studio Microphone Boom Arm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D7UYBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NILODb0NYAZB0

On-Stage 6" Microphone Gooseneck, Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RXROCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IJLODbZ658Y4D

On Stage MSA9504 19-Inch Posi-Lok Mini-Boom https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E550O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fKLODbY7607VB

On Stage TMO2B Microphone Table Mount (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002XKYXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MKLODbF8VMZ17

I purchased the Ozone (1st model) just as the R3volution was being released, so no articulating monitor mounts, but the stock triple monitor mount has worked perfectly for my 3 monitor setup. Stick is mounted with the center stick bracket (was $30 or $50 accessory, I forget.). The center mounted stick is extremely nice for ergonomics and much more of a positive impact on comfort than having a side mounted stick on a desktop than you would think. Also, +10 points to mah immersions.

I use it with a TM Warthog. Joystick is not in the way of working/sitting/typing or playing kb/m games, but I use the steering wheel mounting platform for my keyboard instead of the swinging mousepad/keyboard platform that would be blocked by the center joystick. This center keyboard platform was originally used to mount the acrylic “desktop” accessory that I purchased, but it ended up taking up too much wasted space (and started bending and looking trashy) so I removed it to use a smaller keyboard that I Velcro taped to secure it. I used a Ram mount ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT79ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MwtRCb4AZZ9C1 ) to mount a separate USB number pad, mostly for immersion since the navigation keypad for the Ka50/Viggen is in the similar spot and wanted it lower without hindering movement of my knees or having to reach up to the keyboard. I also use two more of these mounts to fasten 7” screens for my TM MFDs.

I keep the neoprene covered mouse/keyboard platform swung open and use the closest end of it for my mouse area. I found a sweet forearm brace that attaches to desks to act as an arm rest when using the mouse for extended periods. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ICHHZ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HztRCbVHB9T7V ) this saves me from palm pressure and prevents any soreness after extended gaming sessions.

I got plans from thingiverse.com to have a platform for my Razer Orbweaver on my throttle post. I contacted someone with a 3D printer on fiverr.com to make it for me ($30). Link to plans here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1936285. This enables me to use the keyboard strictly for typing during most gaming sessions and keep my arms in comfortable spots while still having access to controls. Extremely handy for multi-faceted games like Arma and Star Citizen where I may be switching between keyboard/mouse controls to HOTAS controls and vice-versa.

I mounted my PC tower behind the framing of the monitor mount for easy travel and an attempt at better cable management...which is my biggest complaint about this setup. There are cables fucking everywhere and it gets ugly. Maybe I’m just bad at the cabling game, but I settled for wrapping cables around the structures of the chair and monitor stand to keep things somewhat tidy. Having the PC tower attached to the chair keeps it off the ground where dust and pet hair settles, keeping my tower cleaner over longer periods. Also makes it extremely easy to move my entire setup in case I want to change rooms. Literally just unplug from the wall and Ethernet and I can push it around. Vital feature now that I have gotten into VR.

I’ll take some pics and link them in another comment.

Here's an updated guide that's more user-friendly than what I've written in the past. This is a slightly involved process, and I spend about an hour before leaving for BRC configuring the GPS, and 2 hours after the burn downloading the tracks and stitching everything together in Photoshop. This is my 4th year doing this.


Note: I've only been able to do this via Windows. There may be ways via Mac or Linux, but I've not been able to figure them out yet.


Step 1: get a GPS unit that can autolog your tracks. I use a Garmin eTrex Legend. Find it used online for less than $50. It's very durable due to rubber gaskets on all buttons which prevents dust issues. Long-life with 2xAA removable batteries last 2 days on average. Mine has lasted 4 burns with zero issues.


Step 2: turn on "Track Log: Auto" if using the Garmin eTrex Legend, and start walking/biking/flying around BRC! This is turned on by default on my unit, so do is a factory reset of your GPS if it's the eTrex Legend. When this GPS is on, it's tracking movement.


Step 3: after the burn, download your tracks to your PC. You need 2 cables (Garmin to serial port - Amazon, and Serial port to USB adapter - Amazon), and software from Garmin (MapSource - free from Garmin). The port on the GPS for the cable is on the top-rear under a rubber flap. Plug in the cables to your PC, turn on the GPS, and open MapSource. Click on "Transfer" in the menu, and download all tracks from the GPS. The tracks look like this - imgur in MapSource. To change the color of your tracks, on the left hand side double click on any track, and select the color you want it to be. I pick one color per day, and set it for all tracks on that day.


Step 4: screen shot and stitch the maps together in Photoshop. Start by zooming in on your tracks in MapSource. Take a screenshot, scroll a bit, take another screenshot, and repeat this process until you have 10-15 screenshots of portions of the map, like this example - imgur . Next, open all the screenshots in Photoshop and stitch them together. Next, open up google maps in a web browser and search for "Black Rock City". Zoom in, and take 10-15 screenshots of the entire city like this second example - imgur, stitching them together in Photoshop. Now you have a high-res version of your tracks, and a street map for BRC from Google Maps. Next, select just your tracks without the gray background by going to the menu "Select > Color Range" on your tracks image. Click on the gray area of the map thumbnail, set the fuzziness to 32, and hit "Ok". Then go into the menu "Select > Inverse" to select just your tracks. Copy this (Edit > Copy), go to your stitched together image from Google Maps, and paste your tracks over it (Edit > Paste). Then, using the Edit > Transform > Scale tool, resize the tracks until they fit exactly with the Google Maps image.


(optional recommended step): Before leaving for the playa, load your Garmin with the GPS map for BRC that comes out a week before the event from http://www.wkeller.net/BRC-GPS/ . William Keller does a fantastic job of putting these maps together, and it makes the GPS unit useful on playa, particularly during dust storms. It has waypoints for all potties, health services locations, roads, etc. Load this into the Garmin eTrex Legend using Sendmap. To do this, first plug in your GPS, then open MapSource to determine which Com Port your GPS is connected to when plugged into your PC. Open SendMap and select the Com Port you saw in MapSource and set the speed to 9600, and the rest is easy to follow using Mr Keller's instructions from http://www.wkeller.net/BRC-GPS/

Find a way to mount a RAM ball to the bike. I like this guy personally.

After that, get something to hold your phone that works with a RAM mount. The X-Grip is super popular, however, I did a lot of research before buying and read loads of reviews from people who lost their phone on the highway, or had the thing twisting and turning every which way, and so on. Many people use it and seem happy with it but it's a big YMMV situation, and it made me shy on that product.

While I can't say for certain if the problems I read about the X-Grip are true, I can tell you that after a legit 60,000 miles with 2 different phones mounted in [THIS] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088LL7UA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage) mount, at a combination of city and highway, into potholes and over speed bumps, not once has my phone ever even wiggled. I have the utmost confidence in this thing. The only caveat is that you should use a TPU or hybrid style case because this is just hard plastic, so have something to save you from scratches and so on.

To go along with it you will need one of these for the back of the phone holder. You will also need a RAM arm, I use (and prefer) a 3 inch arm but they make 6 inch and other more complicated contraptions if that doesn't do it for you.

It's not exactly cheap. At the moment, from Amazon, that will cost you about $43 shipped (edit: before tax). However, I will say that this is exact setup has never failed me in 60,000 miles spread between multiple motorcycles and with 2 different phones of decent size. For your reference, those phones were a Galaxy S5 in an Otterbox Commuter and a Sony Xperia Z3+ in a clear Spidgen case. The mount does have room to grow a bit bigger than these if you need it, but not by a lot.

Good luck and happy riding! =)

Edit: Forgot to offer to take pics of the setup on my bike. If you wanna see it all together first, I can do that, just drop a reply.

> I meant the second screen would be a lot smaller then the first one. Sorry if that wasn't clear.

Except it's not. Both screens were 320x240. They would literally be the same size on the Wii U gamepad, or the Switch screen. And if you mean the 3DS screens, well, yeah, the top screen is effectively 400x240 while the bottom is 320x240, so there's 80 extra vertical pixels on the 3DS' top screen, 40 pixels on each end, so the screen image would be a little wider for the "top" screen than the "bottom" screen, just like it already is on a physical 3DS and you don't seem to mind it there... so why would that make a difference here? And they both fit in the Switch screen without needing to be resized, with room left over to where they could be made larger than they would be on the 3DS itself.

> It's still preventing the left Joycon from having any function in DS VC, making buying extra left joycons somewhat of a waste of money.

How so? You still need the dpad and left bumper for DS games. You can still use the ABXY and right bumper on the right JoyCon for DS games... how are you figuring the left JoyCon would be non-functional with DS VC?

> That would be a huge production cost for something completely impractical. It wouldn't have an appealing design either, given it's purpose.

It would cost pennies at scale for someone like Nintendo or Hori, even Nyko or PDS. To individually 3D print for yourself, $25-$50, maybe less depending on where you get it printed from, or whether you have your own 3D printer.

As for design, it'd literally be a thin sheet of plastic about the same size as the Switch, with a lip on the top and bottom (vertically) to lock into the JoyCon rails on the switch, and an extra bit of plastic on both sides (again, vertically) for the JoyCons to slide onto while holding the Switch vertically.

Or even better, something that holds on by friction to the sides (vertically) of the Switch screen, like most universal smartphone/tablet grips for cars, just expands to whatever size needed to fit the device, then clamps on to keep from sliding off. Something like this, but with JoyCon rails at the ends to slide a pair of JoyCons onto. That one only goes up to 80mm though, so it wouldn't work for the Switch as is.

But this thing is big enough to grip the Switch (Switch is 102mm tall (horizontally) and this thing will grip up to 110mm), just need to mount the JoyCon wrist strap adapters that came with the Switch to it and you've got a vertical grip for $8. Or buy another set of JoyCon wrist straps if you don't want to use the ones that came with it, but those are $8 each and only come one at a time, so you're looking at $24 total for 2 straps and this grip. There are many more grips like that, just need to make sure it'll hold at least 102mm and you're good to go.

Nintendo could even do this with a variation of their standard JoyCon Grip, just split it down the middle so it can expand to clamp onto the Switch in a vertical orientation. Collapse back to the regular JoyCon Grip size when playing with the Switch docked or in tabletop mode.

> Ok sure, making a whole new console design for vertical use isn't very rational, but it would still be a solution to the problem (albeit inefficient).

The only issue is mounting the JoyCons while the Switch is vertical, and that's solved by an $8 grip, if not an official accessory. Or using the JoyCons detached with the Switch standing vertically on a table, if you don't need to be holding it directly in your hands.

I don't know why you'd think it's even an inefficient solution to redesign the whole system... that's no solution at all, that would simply be ridiculous. Irrational is putting it nicely.

I assume not a Sapphire model, which would help. I know they make case & screen protectors - I don't think I'd want one all the time, but maybe just for games? Something like this maybe? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZR3QTB9/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_Fbv3Db6QNHE41

EDIT: Just realized that doesn't cover the screen, but some do - or you can separately get a screen protector. https://smile.amazon.com/Garmin-Protector-Blueshaw-Tempered-Smartwatch/dp/B07XBQX23S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=garmin+fenix+6+SCREEN+PROTECTOR&qid=1574785341&sr=8-3

Is there a way to wrap it with something like an ace bandage or a pad of some kind - maybe a youth elbow pad.

I can totally imagine wanting to capture the training stats from a game - that would be very interesting!

Good luck - maybe let us know what you decide and what your stats look like.

I have a Garmin Oregon 450 that is ~5 years old. Despite it being a bit of a pain to use load maps onto, it has worked really well for touring. Some generic Costco brand AA batteries last ~15 hours of constant use. Pretty much get 2 days of riding of a pair. If you bought brand name you could probably do better. A quick ebay search shows factory refurbs going fro ~180, I don't know if that is a good price but these things are tough so a factory inspected device will last.

Pros:

• Durable and long lasting. I have had mine for, I said, ~5 years and it still works great
  
• Waterproof for when you are biking in the rain
  
• Accurate metrics including elevation gain and loss data
  
• clear route tracks to follow
  
• Back lit so you can see it in the dark
  
• Garmin Connect allows you to upload your rides and data to the cloud
  
  Cons:
  
• Loading Google map data although once you figure it out it's not that bad
  
  To load Google maps onto the device, you need to go to Google Maps creator and export your map as a KML. Then there are a few sites that will convert your KML file to GPX which is the standard Garmin file type. This isn't so bad if you plan ahead but certainly not as easy punching an address into Google maps on a smart phone. Then again, a smartphone's batteries won't last that long or have reception in the middle of no where. If you want help with this feel free to PM me.
  
  I have a this bike mount. It works well.

I currently have the 245 but did have the instinct for a week before I returned it. The Instinct definitely is going more durable. However, I’m pretty comfortable with how my 245 has stood up. I’ve bumped and banged it on doors and corners, not very hard, but still enough to make me cringe. So far it’s held up without any marks. I haven’t dropped it yet, but I’d expect it to be just fine dropped from waist to chest high on wood or tile. It might scratch, but I don’t think it would break from an average drop.

I would strongly recommend putting a screen protector on the 245 if you go that route. The screen should be durable on its own, but the protector will just you extra protection. I got my protector from Amazon, and you can’t even tell I have a screen protector on.

Link here in case you might need it.

Edit: it’s late and I messed up the link formatting

Hey Joe, I'm still new here but, welcome!

#4: I've had this one for nearly a year and it has been great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KNZC63H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also installed these button labels: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MXYBPYH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 since most people are confused on how to open the doors. It worked!


Since I find "piano black" surfaces on every car entirely cheap-looking, I covered mine with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KN468WN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Finally, I dropped these in the cup holders and storage spaces: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JLGZKD8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll be very happy with your car, accessories or not.

Thanks for the compliment! I love it in black! The white plastics always looked brown!

I only have the shift lever so far but I got a tusk, it was super cheap and has probably paid for itself already. I haven't picked up the folding brake lever since they cost significantly more and I'm trying not to spend much more on the bike right now. Having said that, I've bent my brake lever many times already and it's going to have to be changed eventually. I'll likely just buy the folding brake lever from crf's only when I decide to spend the money.

The tank bag is:

https://www.amazon.com/Nelson-Rigg-CL-GPS-ST-Journey-Mate/dp/B00T6J8SV4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1473199337&sr=1-1&keywords=Nelson+Rigg+CL-GPS-ST+Journey+Mate%2C1+Pack

The only negative with this bag is that it sits where the rider ought to be sitting while riding in the dirt. You'll have your crotch all over it if you're doing it right.

The other mod I added recently was a rear rack and rotopax combo kit from CRF's Only:

http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/5586%7B444%7D2658%7B434%7D2538

It's really good if you're interested in nearly doubling your range.

I, too, have a magnetic car mount.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/bracketron-earth-elements-universal-vent-mount-black/7502155.p?id=1219276502656&skuId=7502155

It comes with two different-sized plates that fit nicely between phone and case (has not scratched my phone yet) and an adhesive pad if you don't have a case. Magnet is powerful and won't let go of the phone easily.

I hate air-vent mounts, so the best part for me is that the socket-side of the mount fits perfectly on a Garmin suction cup mount.

Since it's pretty light, take a look at this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001B2PPYC I originally bought it to use with a radio but it's not quite strong enough for me, but works great for holding a phone or gps, so it might work well for you.

Whatever you get make sure you either buy or it comes with the tether

RAM Mounts are extremely solid, but the tether adds an extra layer of security and have saved my phone once or twice

I bought this one a few months ago for my '18 Mazda3. I've heard that people only have trouble with the '19s.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MY8MG7V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Just put it in and you'll have navigation. Drive around the block so it attaches to your VIN, then install the Mazda navigation software on your computer to create an account and update the maps. You should get three years of updates for free.

But yes, it will just work if you put the card in - although it's always best to have the most recent maps.

I got a generic Amazon basics GPS dashboard mount and an imagnet cradle. Easy to use and it doesn't obstruct view out the front.



AmazonBasics GPS Dashboard Mount for Garmin, TomTom, Magellan and Other Portable GPS Navigators https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051FWA7U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G-4iybVY4GDC3


The Original iMagnet Cradle-less Universal Car Phone Windshield Dashboard Mount Holder for iPhone 6, 6 Plus, 6S 6S Plus 5S 5, Galaxy S6 S5, Note 5 4 3, with Official iMagnet Logo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IOQ3K6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1-4iybX3YGCFR

My partner and I use this mount, which is a single ball joint on a solid base. That way it doesn't vibrate and wobble all over the place.

My partner attaches his to a smooth spot on his dash; I have mine stuck on a weighted base, which I like as it doesn't move around during normal driving but is easy to move if you do need to.

This? https://www.amazon.ca/Garmin-Suction-mount-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B000F7857S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517574099&sr=8-1&keywords=0101074700

If you know someone who has a prime membership, you can get it with free shipping, in 2 days. Heck if you want, e-transfer me the cash and I'll order it for you, and you can pick it up downtown Halifax.

This looks like the right one for your GPS. Can't say much about it as my GPS is much older so uses a different style mount. But you can't beat the price of this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-010-11023-00-Colorado-Oregon-Series/dp/B0012MI7QE

*Edit:
There's some conflicting answers on the Amazon page about whether or not this is for the eTrex 10. Garmin website recommends this product number as well:

https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/shop-by-accessories/mounts/bike-cart-mount/prod11411_010-11023-00.html

I use this three pack from Amazon, can't even tell it's there, has a nice oleophobic coating and rounded edges. https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-Forerunner-Protector-Tempered-Smartwatch/dp/B07RKM9DJ9

The GPS Dongle I used, as /u/gonggonggong said is this.
However, I would NOT reccommend using it.

Like I said in one of my comments it caused me about 4 hours of trial and error to get it to work. I would suggest looking at GPSD supported hardware site here to see what is going to work easily for you. They have a lot of options.

Is there enough room in the case to use this Vk-172 Ublox USB GPS (vs an external puck)? Others have reported good reception with this device.

http://amzn.com/B00NWEEWW8

No.

I mean, it is possible, but it would be expensive, and require some kind of development/configuration. With somthing like this : http://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-315Mhz-Transmitter-Receiver-Arduino/dp/B00FF26R14 and an arduino, it is doable but requires work...

Ram X-grip (stem mount) with wireless charging.
imgur

I also highly recommend a tether. My phone's otterbox saved my phone from the ground at 90mph but I wouldn't want to test it again.

It's a univeral, grabbed it from Fry's for 20$. Found it on Amazon for 13$ for you http://www.amazon.com/Bracketron-PHV-202-BL-Grip-iT-Mobile-Device/dp/B001B2PPYC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407458543&sr=8-1&keywords=universal+vent+mount

NOTE:Super glue that mount to the clip when you get it, nothing more frustrating than hitting a bump on your way somewhere and your phone crashing to the floor.

I use this tank bag because I just don't trust those mounts. Highly recommend this one, super low profile, fits well and doesn't move.

http://www.amazon.com/Nelson-Rigg-CL-GPS-ST-Black-Strap-Journey/dp/B00T6J8SV4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

If anyone is looking for these mounts, I found them on Amazon

Screw on mount

Small connector arm

Big connector arm with elbow

I just used some heavy duty mounting tape to fix the keyboard to the screw mounts.

I would look into a vent mount for your phone. This is the one I have that works very well, but there are plenty of others.

If that's an x-grip mount, they make the rubber band retention strap for the tablets too. Holds it rock solid.

This thing.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017STCELI

Metal pedals - BASENOR Model 3 Performance Pedal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KG3C3NJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Center console organizer - JDMCAR for 2017 2018 2019 Tesla... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MGQ5ZYG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Screen protector - Model 3 Center Control Touch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KNZC63H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Console wrap kenriko - Kenriko Tesla Model 3 Matte Black Console Wrap Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZL8ZR5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4oqXCbTVS62S6

Floor Mats with smaller line accessories - Vanku Floor Mats for Tesla Model 3 2017-2018-2019 with Cup and Center Console Liner Accessories Black Rubber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MH74W45/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zqqXCb2NWY2K9

My googling says this.

Here is a link that you can get it for $99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MY8MG7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mnGZCbD1SHGFZ

But I would not get the navigation and would install CarPlay/Android Auto instead.

If you had this, at least your phone would have survived.

Here's just the rubber piece you can buy by itself. It's $7.95.

http://www.amazon.com/RAM-Mount-Tether-X-Grip-Holders/dp/B017STCELI/ref=pd_sim_107_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41g-eyUCxzL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=040A92NH8YBGH720VYNV

http://www.amazon.com/RAM-Mount-Tether-X-Grip-Holders/dp/B017STCELI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459284302&sr=8-1&keywords=Ram+mount+x+grip+tether

I got this one:
Model 3 Center Control Touch Screen Car Navigation Tempered Glass Screen Protector, 9H Anti-Scratch and Shock Resistant for Model 3 Screen Cover P50 P65 P80 P80D 15" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KNZC63H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sz-MDbJPBBKA9
There is some glare, but it does not bother me at all.