(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best hand punches

I just built exactly what you're describing. I can share some of my experiences.

• Torquing things:
  
  
  • An AR-15 armourer's wrench is a dedicated device for AR-15 assembly and will be needed to attach the barrel, buffer tube, and flash hider. I initially got a super cheap one that couldn't take the torque and the tool's teeth snapped off while stripping a few of my barrel nut's teeth. I now use a TAPCO-brand model and it's very well made.
    
    
  • A torque wrench ensures you are tightening the barrel, flash hider, and castle nut to the correct minimum amounts using an objective indicator of applied torque. The minimum values are in the 25-35 ft.-lb range, so get a wrench that can exceed this by a healthy margin.
    
    
  • You need a vise to hold your upper and lower receiver at the individual stages where you're attaching parts, especially anything that needs to be tightened to a specified torque level. C-clamps and speed clamps are also helpful here.
    
    
  • A pair of plastic blocks clamp your upper receiver tightly to your vise. A block of magazine-shaped plastic goes into your magwell to hold your lower receiver in place on your vise. Get a combo pack of both.
    
    
  • Molybdenum-based anti-seize (greasing) compound is necessary when attaching your barrel to your receiver. It makes things easier when torquing the barrel nut and prevents the barrel from chemically bonding to the receiver. I made the mistake of attaching the barrel without it, had great difficulty tightening the nut, found that I couldn't align the gas tube properly, and then couldn't remove the nut again. Had to toss the thing into a freezer overnight to allow thermal contraction to separate the parts.
    
    
• Pushing in roll pins:
  
  
  • You want a mallet with a non-marring head for driving in roll pins without damaging your weapon's finish.
    
    
  • A roll pin starter set will save you so much trouble getting the pins aligned for the first few hammer hits. Buy it.
    
    
  • For most of my roll pins, I used a roll punch set instead of a standard punch set to drive in the pins. Roll pins are hollow and a roll punch has a small indentation that fits inside the hollow area which makes driving the pins much easier.
    
    
  • A standard punch set came in handy to keep high-tension parts aligned while I punched in roll pins from the other side.
    
    
  • A bench block is useful in holding your parts in place while hammering in roll pins, but it's not needed if you have a friend to provide spare hands at some stages of assembly. I started off using it, but a roommate's hands plus a roll of tape (to rest the work piece on) worked just as well.
    
    
• Specialty / miscellaneous
  
  
  • If you're installing a handguard that uses the standard delta ring, you will want snap ring pliers to manipulate the snap ring part of the delta ring assembly. I initially tried using improved tools. Save yourself the cursing and just get the pliers.
    
    
  • I saw a video guide to installing the front pivot pin using a clevis pin. It looks like a good technique to use and would have saved me a lot of trouble.
    
    I'm super happy with the results of my build. The process is fraught with a lot of cursing and you're probably going to lose a couple of the tiny parts (like detent pins and tension springs) but the end result will be totally worth it. You'll be intimately familiar with the insides of your AR-15 and share a sentimental connection with your firearm thanks to its DIY nature. Enjoy!

Here’s all the tools I’ve ever used on an AR, and some example links:
An AR15 multitool. This is the weird looking bar with a bunch of cutouts and hook looking things. This’ll let you tighten the barrel but for most handguards, the castle nut (for the buffer tube), and most muzzle devices.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07KFQJY9K/

The inner square cut is meant for a torque wrench, which is highly recommended, but not absolutely critical. You want one that can be set at least from 30-80 pounds. Make sure to look up proper use and storage (don’t store when set to a torque). There are lots of great videos showing the proper use.

Various sized punches, preferably with an index indentation on the end meant for roll pins. Protip: lube roll pins and the holes for a much better time, and go slowly. www.amazon.com/dp/B01F5JC2I8/

You’ll want a tiny mallet, with a brass end and a rubber end. www.amazon.com/dp/B0061G57T6/

Don’t use a vice on an upper or lower directly, they can take the beating of real world use, but are still thin aluminum and a vice will quickly fuck them up. I use a magpul bev block.

You can get away with assembly without a vice (I did in the beginning), but I really don’t recommend it. Lots of guys get away with the floor and a book, but that’s a quick way for unintended consequences and disappointment. You’re better off attaching a vice in the middle of a long plank and using lots of clamps to secure it down to a table or bench if you don’t have a proper worktable.

Your going to want various sizes of imperial and metric hexkeys/Allen tools, as well as torx for things like optic mounts, gas block, most hand guards, the grip bolt (extra long, don’t know what size) and various mlok attachments.

For some optic mounts (like the ultra lightweight aero mounts), an adjustable torque inch-pounds wrench like a FAT wrench are not just optionally recommend but mandatory.

Other notes:
Don’t forget to get about the lower end plate (holds in the spring and retaining pin for the rear takedown pin)

Get a pack of crush washers. These are use once then toss. Note that some muzzle devices don’t need or want these, but they are pretty safe to have.

Umbrella Corporation AeroShell 33MS / 64 Grease is THE standard grease for use on the barrel but threads, though lithium grease works fine, but be warned this topic can start forum wars.

Don’t use loctite on high temperature parts, instead use Rocksett if you feel the need to make something extra secure. At high temps loctite breaks down and can even act like a mild lubricant/anti seize. Do be aware any retaining compound can make it very difficult to get things off. Often rocksett needs to be soaked prior to removal. A dot of rocksett on the gas block screws and non-crush washer muzzle devices is sufficient. Just need a little on the last inside few threads.

Rifle stocks are up to personal preference. I have an adjustable mission first minimalist stock on my ultralight 22lr build, and a magpul moe fixed carbine stock (with extended pad) on my 5.56 lower. I found I just ended up setting the adjustable stock and leaving it, so I like the slightly increased weight of the fixed stock balancing the rifle better. I’d go with an adjustable stock at first to see what you like.

Have a look at JP silence captured buffer and geissele super 42 braided spring/buffer. Both are a great upgrade over a standard carbine spring.

For muzzle devices my knowledge is pretty dated. You can’t go wrong with a standard birdcage, a yankee hill phantom, or a precision armament afab mini, but there are exponentially more things you can stick on a muzzle than when I researched things years ago.

Do be aware of laws regarding barrel length, overall rifle length and various legal definitions.

Hope this helps!

As others have said, credit cards work great, so do razor blades to hold the detent pins down (cheaper than the $8 on this pin which im sure works great - but this pin could 'save' you money if you shoot the detent and spring off and cant find them)

Warning wall of text from a comment I made to someone else in your position, ill have changes at the bottom since I made this comment 3 or 4 months ago:

As others have said its really easy even if you have no experience, there are plenty of youtube videos for resources. An AR is by far the easiest firearm to work on. I started off in your position a few years ago hesitant to mod and now I barrel my own ARs, its addictive and very easy with the hardest part spending money on tools but deals can be had. Lots of great resources out there as well dont let it intimidate you - heres a wall of text of some tools you might want to consider if you're looking to assemble stripped lowers or do minor gun work.


I purchased this set of punches for less than $7 a few years ago looking to do the same as you but being on a college budget. You'll definitely want brass but steel/'chrome' punches have their place (peening roll pins). This is far from the "perfect" set and is chinesium but 4 AR builds, many other firearm disassembles (stripping 3+ glocks, 4+ M&P Pros as well as a couple Rugers to bare frame then back again) and 4+ years later they are still holding up (punches will bend, you can bend them back, especially the small ones, if they get deformed from striking you can file/sand them flat again) but if you have extra cash/are willing to spend more there are many options out there that are oriented towards gunsmithing specifically, I didnt have the money at the time for them and will wait until these give out or I come across something they wont work with before I purchase something else.

You may also want to look into a roll pin starting punch if you are building ARs (or anything that uses roll pins)

But I find Hemostat Forceps to work excellently for roll pins ('pinch' the pin in them, get it started, remove forceps and use punch) (you will not need this for installing a trigger, only roll pins such as a bolt catch)

Also if you're striking punches dont use a regular hammer (chips into your eyes arent good) I use a Nylon Hammer like this

There are other things for barreling such as torque wrenches and vices etc. but the above will allow you to assemble a stripped AR lower and have many other applications for gun work. Good luck any questions dont hesitate to ask.


Changes - I ended up buying the roll pin installer for the trigger guard (totally not necessary but saves time) and I killed all those punches after years of faithful service while in the current process of building an AK. But I highly recommend the hemostat forceps for the roll pin on the bolt catch. Assembling an AR might seem intimidating but you can totally do it, any questions totally ask

I don't think these are the roll pin starters, since they say they can be used to finish driving nails. If they were roll pin starters they would be hollow and pretty useless for nails. I think there are four pin punches and one large solid punch in this set. And pin punches aren't even the right tool for finish nails, every nail set I've ever seen is a center punch style.

Here is a set that has an excellent illustration of different types. It includes everything except the roll pin starter style, but you can see those here.

It's a few bucks, but I got bought both of the above within the last year and been very happy with them, and both are made in the USA. I really like the big Tekton set as it is pretty much everything you need for firearms, except the roll pin starters, and I've gotten rid of all my cheap ones.

Center to center caliper adapters

Automatic center punch

Caliper depth gauge attachment Mitotoyo link

^ make a similar one but with a hole for a dial indicator. ULTRA OMEGA useful for making comparative measurements on the surface grinder without taking parts out to measure. This design from brown&sharpe is probably better.

12" long parallel. For parallel sake. (I use it for tramming in a bridgeport head)

Custom gauge block/stick, for setting tool offsets instead of using paper.

Tool grinding fixture for frequent tools. I honestly don't know the details of such a thing but my professor gushed during class about it. Probably something like this that rides on a grinder toolpost sled.

Awesome. I just got a nice set of punches off Amazon and an armorers wrench from there too.

The order has been placed from Midway so I hope it gets here this week. It would be a nice project for the weekend! Looking forward to getting it finished.

I have a 2mm and 2.5mm version of these punch cutters:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G08PEXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are the best tool I've used for clipping. I'm actually going to sell these as well if you are interested. ;-)

This might be excessive, but I wanted to be thorough so you can see what all is out there. I am having trouble thinking of anything that the following tools can't do, in terms of AR building and maintenance. This is basically my setup at home, though some.of the brands and whatnot are different.

I am operating under the assumption that you already have some basic hand tools in addition to the torque wrench.

The only things you absolutely need are roll pin punches and an armorer's wrench and some basic hand tools like Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and so on. The rest just expedite the process and help solve weird issues that may come up.


Wheeler Engineering Roll Pin Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NWBVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJZDAb1ZFBQ80

Wheeler Roll Pin Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JZDAbV5YGA8M

Wheeler Hammer and Punch Set In Plastic Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNZDAb1Y74EF0

Geissele Automatics 10-169 AR15/M4 Reaction Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY6WFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hOZDAbD3JHBAE

Aeroshell 33ms / MIL-G-21164D / MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease + 1/2oz can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4OZDAbQGRYJJ2

TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPZDAbQ05H680

TEKTON Long Arm Star Key Wrench Set, T10-T50, 9-Piece | 25291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQZDAbRX59VNW

IRWIN Tools Multi-Purpose Bench Vise, 5-Inch (4935505) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TOCZEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QZDAbT8R47J0

Yost UP-360 Universal 6 Inch Prism Style Jaw Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVQH42U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aRZDAbRHAV73E

Real Avid Gun Tool Pro - for Modern Sporting Rifles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMHX5KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bUZDAbEB87JFB

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xWZDAb1SRYD6D

Wheeler Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set (43-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXZDAbQX5BEWF

TacWater USA AR15/M4/M16 Tools Multi-Purpose Tool Set (W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WWZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GYZDAbRGY3CNH

Takedown Pivot PIN Tool set 223 556 6.8 SPC 300 AAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OUSJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.ZDAbSHZPEG5

Magpul Bev Block https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block

At work, I use these and these with a Brownell's brass/nylon hammer and a couple of unmarked brass punches. These are great product's but they're spendy if you're not doing this stuff for a living.

At home I have this and a couple of roll pin starters. It's a great setup for lighter use.

If you're doing sights, the brass punch and nylon hammer head are musts. For everything else the brass head and steel punches are fine. To avoid marring up whatever you're working on, use blue painter's tape to cover the area.

just fyi, all those window break tools are grabage, if you want to ensure you break the window quick and easy, get one of these.

Source: My 50 year old uncle who has been in the auto glass business since he was 17, he bought everyone in the family one of these for christmas, years ago.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6C5Ytc5Soc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yHlI_8TGA4

Pilot cartridges come with a disk sealing them. Putting it back in place seals the cartridge. I have been doing this for years with not one single leak.
This is how I refill my vanishing points cartridges . I would also recommend using something like an altoid tin to carry them in for extra protection.


A punch looks like this. They are used to drive pins.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2LGZUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_V-W.zbPKPPF0Q

I clipped all my ASL counters(12,000+) with finger nail clippers and a jig I made from a CD case. I bought one of these back when he was selling them for 5 dollars, it works well also. Last year I bought this corner clipper it works ok, but you have to be careful when using it or you can mangle the counters. Clipped counters just look better on the maps/boards to me. It also makes the counter much more uniform for stacking purposes.

I agree with this, and I'd like to say spend some money on a set of roll pin starter and roll pin punch set.

And wow, my full service, machine-shop smith, only charges $65/hr. I know that good work costs $$$, but.... Wow


edit: and some masking/electrical tape. Its not hard, but a modicum of appropriate tools and preventive measures for oopsies, is relatively cheap.

I use an Oregon Lamination Corner Rounder, 2mm size. Absolutely worth the price if you want to have perfectly rounded corners on your counters. Once you get the hang of it, it's quick and consistent.

Here is the same model I purchased on Amazon

I built an e-BIAB setup a few years ago that is still my "indoor rig" for deep winter months. Price breakdown was roughly as follows:

Kettle:

• 62 qt Bayou w/basket (Amazon) - $150
  
• stainless 3pc ball valve and weldless bulkhead (BargainFittings) - $30
  
• 2.5" thermowell (BargainFittings) - $25
  
• 4500w SS element w/cord - $60
  
  Total = $265
  
  Controller:
  
  
• High Gravity's EBC II - $295
  
• Johnson controller (A419)- $70
  
  Total = $365
  
  Wiring:
  
  
• 50A GFCI Spa Panel (Home Depot) - $50
  
• 30A 4-prong receptacle - $10
  
  Total = $60
  
  Grand total: $690
  
  You can shave a lot off of that by building a simple PID controller as others have mentioned. I was pressed for time, so I went with the EBC II and have been fairly happy with it. You can also find fittings a bit cheaper if you shop around.
  
  Note I also bought some fancy Greenlee punches (e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-1-1-Standard-Knockout-4-Inch/dp/B002NQZ0J0/) and a step bit to cut my holes, knowing I'd use them again. You can avoid that if you have friends w/tools or just buy a dirt cheap step bit from Harbor Freight and work a bit harder.
  
  Also, worth mentioning that you DO need GFCI protection and if you are at all unsure about hooking things up, get a professional electrician.
  

Welcome to the wonderful world of home rifle maintenance. As frustrated as you maybe now, you'll be better able to work on your firearms in the future because of it. We've all been in a similar position where something simple won't work the way it's supposed to.

​

What type of hammer (weight, material, head) and punches (material, diameter) are you using?

How are you placing the receiver while you work on the rifle, are you trying to drive the pin out side to side or top down?

​

Based on what you've posted so far (and not knowing answers to the above yet).

​

If it were me working on the rifle I would make a quick armourers block (see below for link to a purchasable one). Just take a piece of 2x4 and drill a decent sized hole in it, perhaps 3/8" to 1/2". Now clearly there's a lot of pressure holding that pin in place, to remove it you need a proper hammer and a proper punch. For the hammer you need something like a 12oz steel ball pein. For the punch you will need a steel punch with a diameter as close to the pin as possible without going over.

​

To drift that pin out of the receiver you're going to put your armourers block on a solid surface (work bench, garage floor, etc). Place the receiver, on it's side on top of the block, and punch the pin from the top into the hole in the armours block. It will take a few good wacks before the pin will move, and once it does it will move quick.

​

If after all that the pin won't come out I would recommend taking it to gunsmith as you may be doing something wrong.

​

Relevant tools:

https://www.amazon.ca/Real-Avid-Smart-Bench-Block/dp/B01LXE01KU/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=bench%2Bblock&qid=1574830067&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-fibreglass-ballpein-hammer-0574103p.html#srp
https://www.amazon.ca/Vaughan-TC2012-12-Ounce-Commercial-Hammer/dp/B00018AP1K/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=12oz+hammer&qid=1574831381&s=hi&sr=1-15
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00008IHTJ?pf_rd_p=166ffdfc-3741-4c47-bf8d-82d1def52b0e&pf_rd_r=SXGJ0TT9FGC6PNXD4XHT

Oh yes. The Starrett brass punches are amazing. Get an extra of the 1/16" because it's the easiest one to fuck up.

http://www.amazon.ca/Greenlee-730BB-3-Standard-Knockout-4-Inch/dp/B001UL13M2

This is what you want. Ask on your local homebrew club's forum if someone has one, because these are expensive and only used a few times. You can also go to a metal shop in an industrial park and ask them to do it for you. They won't charge a lot and they will clean it up nice for you.

User error. You have to make sure the counter is properly aligned against the stops. Which model cutter did you get, the completely handheld one, or the one that sits on the table and you push down the top handle?

I use this one because you can hold it upside-down and clearly see how well the counter is aligned before you punch.

I have one of these: http://www.amazon.com/C-S-Osborne-223-Revolving-Multi-sized/dp/B00004YZQC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1380696839&sr=8-5&keywords=leather+hole+punch

There's absolutely nothing to it. Just find the right sized punch, place a scrap piece of denim on the anvil side (prevents the punch from going dull), find your spot and punch through. You won't ruin your belt, how do you think the manufacturer got those holes there in the first place? Same way.

Or, like /u/automaticfantastic says, if the buckle is detachable, you can just simply shorten the belt with a utility knife and reattach the buckle.

My father was a machinist and these were the punches he recommended when I told him I wanted a set:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/565-pin-punch-set-prod12625.aspx

If you don't want the stand up case you can get a cheap rubber case for less:
https://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/S565PC

https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-S565PC-Drive-Punch-Pieces/dp/B0006J4OUC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=starrett+punch+set&qid=1569421053&sr=8-2

If you need roll pin punches I have Grace:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/roll-pin-punches-prod38883.aspx

this is a punch starter kit. I don't believe these are meant to punch out pins. You may be thinking of a punch set such as this Stanley set for $10 + free ship. I also just ordered this set.

This set of Starrett punches while expensive is extremely high quality, well worth the money IMO. (Actually the price matches the 8pc set from Brownells)

I have used Allen wrenches and small drill bits that I was willing to sacrifice previously. That being said...

https://www.amazon.com/America-Hollow-Steel-Starter-Punch/dp/B01BL4TW3Y/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1469788510&sr=8-12&keywords=roll+pin+punch

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engineering-Roll-Pin-Punch/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1469788510&sr=8-5&keywords=roll+pin+punch

Punch sets can be had relatively cheaply. I bought the wheeler, though the hollow type might be better for your application.

I have 3 American Locks that I had to do that to. The first one I drilled it with a small bit and stepped up the size twice before using the punch. The second one I used only the larger size bit before using the punch and by the third I was just done with the BS and only used the punch. That one took two swift wacks with the back of a screw driver to push it through enough to grab the bottom with pliers and yank out. That was the easiest and least time consuming out of the 3.

This is the set that I used.

Clearance below the NMO is about 3/8 inch (~10mm). You really only need a bit more than the clearance of the coax in the bushing assembly as shown here.
I just drilled a couple of NMO's on my (aluminium body) F-150 last weekend and I use a wrench tightened metal hole punch like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-3-Standard-Knockout-4-Inch/dp/B001UL13M2
It produces a clean burr-free cut.

Also pick up a center punch. Just put the point on the center of your hole and push - it's spring loaded and makes a neat little indentation. Just center punch all your hole centers and grab your drill. This is also a couple bucks at harbor freight.

loctite blue and aeroshell 33ms for the barrel install, also great for installing a freefloat handguard and scope mounts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ive found luck with this punch set, although the 3/32 did bend a smidge when I was pounding the hell out of it when pinning my gas block. also a rollpin starter punch set is a nice addition.

https://www.amazon.com/Fixxxer-Hollow-Stainless-Steel-Starter/dp/B0191RFK4I/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1480117372&sr=1-4&keywords=starter+punch+set

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012TKY0VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got myself one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/C-S-Osborne-223-Revolving-Multi-sized/dp/B00004YZQC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1332355339&sr=8-4

I have now made 2 new holes in my belt. Feels prety good.

DN 32 - 1¼ - 1.660 in (42.16 mm)

Would be a 1 1/4" hole punch like.
https://www.greenlee.com/products/DIE%2540c-RD-1%2540.250-(43%2540c2)-CONDUIT-(735).html
https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-1-1-Standard-Knockout-4-Inch/dp/B002NQZ0J0

Are you soldering in or using a bulkhead fitting on your boiler? You could use a step bit to drill out a hole.
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10194A-Titanium-Drill-Speed/dp/B000FZ2UOY/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518546407&sr=1-3&keywords=step+bit+for+stainless+steel

Would a simple set like this suffice for the extractor? https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-226-Piece-Punch-Kit/dp/B000NIBFSK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468090941&sr=8-1&keywords=Punch+set

Imo, I would wait until i can get the right tool. Some kind of leather puncher like the following:

https://www.amazon.com/Revolving-including-Screwdriver-Grinding-Saddle/dp/B06XRDBGY6/

I like these at $11.97 delivered.

edit: formatting

Get something like this

Look for something like this:

Revolving leather hole punch

a leather hole puncher will make any belt fit. this blogger is a fan.

still, i second kale_no's advice. excess fabric won't drape well around the waist, even with a belt.

I got one of these. Totally worth it.

https://smile.amazon.com/Revolving-including-Screwdriver-Grinding-Saddle/dp/B06XRDBGY6/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1524490737&sr=1-5&keywords=leather+punch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRDBGY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got it because I figure it can be used in the future for craft projects and such as well.

Came out good. I see someone recommended a center punch, if you are going to buy these tools, don't skimp. These are machinist tools and they should be the right material and hardness or they will dull easily and ruin your work. If you buy an "automatic" center punch, buy this one. Cheaper ones quickly stop working consistently. You can also just get one nice, hardened ordinary one and use a hammer each time.

The most important thing is to back up the sheet metal. Use spray adhesive to stick a block of wood to the back of the metal temporarily for all your center punching and drilling ops. Also, using a center drill instead of a small "jobber bit" will create more accurate holes. The shorter flute length and sturdier shank increases accuracy and reduces walking on the surface.

https://www.amazon.com/Radius-Deluxe-Corner-Rounder-Cutter/dp/B00G08PEXO/ref=pd_cp_469_1?pd_rd_w=Ws7o3&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=8RH8ZXP0CDX47VH61D4K&pd_rd_r=dc050288-bf46-4c97-9ae8-600b8e46d379&pd_rd_wg=slIm4&pd_rd_i=B00G08PEXO&psc=1&refRID=8RH8ZXP0CDX47VH61D4K

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This one is worth the little bit extra. QC has slipped recently, but they will ship replacements.

I have this set and it's worked well for my p10c
I also have a small hammer with a plastic / rubber side I think.
I also grabbed the real avid brand universal gun block.
I swapped to the HB industries trigger using these tools.

They do offer larger punch sets too for not too much more money, like the Tekton or Wheeler master punch set
Wheeler punch set

$12 on Amazon, decent reviews: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRDBGY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cGCBDbS9GWZJE

http://www.amazon.com/SE-Center-Punch-Automatic-Brass/dp/B003DW8OCI

$6.30 on amazon. Place the punch about 1/2mm from the edge of the faceplate and punch at the stake position on the castle nut. Actuate punch 5-6 times.

Done.

What you are looking for is a radio punch instead of a conduit punch. This will work:

http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-3-Standard-Knockout-4-Inch/dp/B001UL13M2

A pair of channel locks?

Get a punch set and a roll pin start set.

Use the right tools for the job.

One of these guys, basically just put one end against the pin and apply the hammer to the other side of the punch.

For the 2.5mm one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G08PEXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the 3mm one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076FJ7SS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2.5mm is closer to American corners. 3mm is closer to Japanese corners.

This works too, for a mere $25 :x
http://smile.amazon.com/Radius-Corner-Rounder-Punch-Cutter/dp/B008CG7D1S/

You need this...

https://www.amazon.com/Revolving-including-Screwdriver-Grinding-Saddle/dp/B06XRDBGY6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=make+holes+in+belt&qid=1571149201&sr=8-3

the porcelain is much harder than the glass. Once tempered glass takes more than around 15000 psi it shatters. The porcelain does that in an incredibly small area. It does not work on regular glass or laminated glass (front windshield)

edit:adding this is what he should have used. Also cars with power windows should have these in case you drive into the water.

I use this.

I bought one of these for wargames (and to a lesser extent euro games) and it's been perfect for rounding out the corners and getting rid of dog ears:

https://www.amazon.com/Radius-Deluxe-Corner-Rounder-Cutter/dp/B00G08PEXO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485698174&sr=8-1&keywords=2.5mm+corner+clipper

I don't remember it being that expensive (think I paid ~$40) and I would use CamelCamelCamel to keep an eye on it to drop in price, but it's been amazing.

I used it for The Colonists goods chits and they look and feel much better without the sharp edges. Not to mention any player aids all have the sharp corners that get bent anyways, clipped off. They also sell a 2mm and 3mm version. I found the 3mm to be a touch too much and the 2mm just too little of a cut, but they are both available for a little cheaper than the 2.5mm one.

Oh and one last thing, but this is basically foolproof. I know they sell a cheaper model that does that same, but I remember reading that you can fuck up your chits if you do it wrong. The version I listed is literally impossible to do it wrong.

Edit: Actual site that's a touch cheaper:
http://www.oregonlam.com/C-006-2-5MM_2-5mm_Corner_Cutter_Punch_Rounder.html

Fuck it lets order everything off amazon if possible.

punches $10 you might use two of them

hammer $6 and this is over kill you need it to set like 3 roll pins. One in the trigger guard, bolt release, and forward assist

Masking tape Like a dollar at walmart only need a little while installing pins.

Grease same stuff from ebay little cheaper. Will likely only need a 5ml container but two are only $5

Magpul Bev block. Different site but free shipping and a quick google search will show you who to contact for usually a %10 off

Torque wrench and vise you are on your own but someone you know should have them and you can usually get away without a torque wrench depending on what handguard you choose.

For lower assembly, all you really need is a a rubber mallet and possibly a willing helper. As far as anything else, you'll want:

Armorer's Wrench, mostly for the castle nut

Punch pin set for driving pins in.

You'll also probably need an Allen wrench or slotted screwdriver to put the grip in.

For the upper, you'll need some C-clamps and a vise block, as well as some decent moly grease and a torque wrench.

Literally the only things I've had to spend on are the armorer's wrench and the vise block. Everything else is stuff you should have lying around the house.