(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best hose fittings

Dude, look at that link. Those pipes are included.

Listen, you can't have auto coolant lines incapable of being pressurized. A key feature of engine coolant lines is the fact that they are capable of holding pressure, which allows them to absorb more heat which may be passed through the radiator. If there's an opportunity for coolant to lose its pressurization, the entire engine heat dissipation system has effectively been hamstrung. The entire system will no longer be able to rise above a boiling temperature.

What's more, the Miata doesn't have a great cooling system to begin with. This is something which solomiata commented on years ago. You can see the home made fix on that site, but it's been further perfected by flyin' miata and is still for sale here with a great explanation as to its necessity.

Honestly, I would sooner bypass the heater core in its entirety than allow for a potential depressurization. Just go out and buy a 5/8" barb union, and tie the lines together until you can replace that pipe.

I LOVE my Mash & Boil, especially after I upgraded it. Here are the things I bought for it to do my upgrade. It’s a good amount of money up front but worth it.



CHUGGER PUMP CPSS-CI-1 Stainless Steel 115 Volt Center Home Brewing System Beer Pump, 55” Cord WITH Plug, Inlet 3/4” x Outlet 1/2” MPT, ETL-Certified, USFDA Food Compliant Materials https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HERFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vECLBbD3PTY36


HFS(R) Homebrew Beer Wort Chiller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y41HCFP?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


White SiliconeTubing, 1/2"ID, 3/4"OD, 1/8"Wall, 10' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWU38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VECLBb3CM7H5Q


MRbrew Quick Disconnect 304 Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TCQF6Q?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


CONCORD 304 Stainless Steel Quick... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079J5X3XD?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Anderson Metals Brass Garden Hose... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMU7U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


LOKMAN Hose Clamp, 20 Pack Stainless Steel Adjustable 13-19mm Range Worm Gear Hose Clamp, Water Pipe Clamp for for Plumbing, Automotive and Mechanical Applications https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077R2PNVT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yHCLBbB7TH7W8


Dernord Full Port Ball Valve Stainless Steel 304 Heavy Duty for Water, Oil, and Gas with Blue Locking Handles (1/2" NPT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076D7WM9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wKCLBbEH1QPR0


HomeBrewStuff Stainless Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UI995XG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

magic.

seriously, though. make some fasteners out of sheet metal that you can bolt to your oil pan bolts... or reuse the mounts that are there for the hardlines... or use mechanics wire.... or just say fuck it, and hang them with fishing string and hope for the best since it seems like that's all anyone on here ever does.

or do something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/KMC-Stampings-Series-Steel-Clamp/dp/B005NBTLU6

I just meant to check the cheap stuff before you buy a fuel pump. Sounds like the pump is probably your issue though. I'd get a Walbro 255LPH from amazon. Oh and make sure to be EXTREMELY careful taking the hoses off the pump assembly because if there's any rust those metal lines will break off, which is not fun to deal with. I had to drill out the holes and then I pushed one of these through the hole and tightened this on the other side and then used some JB weld to make the tank air tight again.

Sorry I was on my phone before. let me see what i can find. I can't find the exact coupler I used but I might be able to find something else with some searching

ed: you're in luck, found a two step way using items available on amazon that connects to the 1/4" flare you originally tried to shove the hose directly onto. when i got my oven in, i needed it working THAT DAY, and the local hvac supply place didn't have 1/4" flare swivel couplers in stock.

http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-5911-4-Inch-Female-Adapter/dp/B008E5CVKA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419741989&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+inch+female+flare+swivel

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PKL6Z2/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

You may also want a hose clamp or two to go with that

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Tie-33200-4-Inch-5-Stainless/dp/B006IOZ3YU/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1419742116&sr=1-1&keywords=1%2F4%22+hose+clamp

when i did it locally, i found a 1/2" Flare to 1/2" NPT swivel, and had to get some teflon tape and put a 1/2" NPT x 1/4" barb on it instead.

1. I would call shaft support bracket or block. similar
   
   
2. haven't seen something like that before. Maybe another kind of shaft support bracket. edit: best guess would be a bushing bracket: similar
   
   
3. Looks like one of these
   
   

You can go get a bunch of cheap hose clamps to use on it, one like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-Stainless-Steel-Clamp-Width/dp/B003D7KSKO
You'll just need to find ones big enough to fit around it. Use something like cardboard so they dont dig in to the edges of the timber too much.

Sure,

inline heater: 150w/300w/500w In-Line External Heater AQUARIUM HEATER - 150/300/500 WATT 1/2"-5/8" (300 Watt 5/8" (16/22mm) Hose) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MG8K0GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FIh2Ab1QSTN6J

Also if you're using a sunsun with 3/4 inch tubing your going to need 3/4 to 5/8 adapters: Eldon James C12-10BN Automotive Black Nylon Reduction Coupler, 3/4" Hose Barb to 5/8" Hose Barb (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VNE00Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OKh2AbZ8J5E3F

Then your going to need a couple hose clamps and about a foot of strong 5/8 tubing, I just drove to the local Auto parts store since they sell hose by the foot and it was less than $5 for hose and clamps. Whereas Amazon only sells long spools for $30+

I made a book-length comment a while ago on here, lemme copy-paste it. This was for carboy-keg, but it's a similar idea. Just get creative about it ;)

"Sorry about the late reply, but here it goes.

Since you have a glass carboy and a siphon, I think you have 2 options: pressurized transfer and unpressurized (read: gravity) transfer.

First is pressurized, which is what I did. When I was doing research when I first did it, a lot of people used caps like these. Basically, they would use the large hole to put the siphon in, and the smaller hole to connect to the gas. The Gas connection should be easier with the cap.

To connect the gas, turn the regulator down to about 1 psi. be careful not to go too high, since the glass carboy can explode with pressure, so I wouldn't go higher than 1 psi. Close the tank once it's set, and disconnect the gas manifold from the regulator. This tube should go on the smaller hole on the cap, but again, this isn't how I did it so your mileage may vary. make sure you use a hose clamp and clamp it down tight too, because you don't want your CO2 to leak out. Essentially, this will push the beer from the top, down through the siphon, out the top of the cap, and down into the keg.

The siphon should fit down the cap, but if it doesn't you should be able to use a silicone tube that's the same OUTER diameter as the holes INNER diameter. The siphon hose will connect to the beer side of the keg -- or the side of the keg that normally dispenses the beer. In my case, the actual connector was clamped shut in such a way that I couldn't remove it, so instead I removed my faucet head and connected the 2 tubes. Either use a tube union like this one or jerry-rig something up. Make sure to use more hose clamps, because otherwise you'll have beer leaking all over which is no bueno.

At this point you should have a connection from the gas to the carboy and from the carboy to the keg. The last thing to do is know how to vent the keg. I have pin lock kegs without the pull-tab relief valve, so I stick a screwdriver into the unused connector to open it, allowing it to vent the gas that is being displaced by the incoming beer. On ball-lock kegs, they usually feature a nice pull-ring valve on the lid that can be pulled to release the pressure. Either way, you will need to release the pressure regularly during the process or else the pressure will equalize and the beer will stop flowing.

At this point, you should be able to start. Make sure all of the connections are tight, the connector is plugged into the keg, and you can vent the pressure. Open the CO2 tank valve, and make sure the regulator is still at a light 1psi or lower. The pressure of the gas will force the beer up into the siphon and down into the beer line, filling the keg from the bottom. This forces the gas out through the top of the keg, which is where you release the pressure that builds up as it equalizes.

Once it's done filling, turn off the CO2 tank and disconnect all of the tubes, and you have a full keg of beer!


The gravity version (which I haven't done) is basically the entire thing, but the carboy needs to be higher than the keg, and instead of a CO2 connection there . . .nothing. This obviously exposes some of the beer to the air, which is not good, but it probably is a lot less likely to explode. "

I do the same as chino. They do sell 3/8" barbs (this looks like one ) that would make the connection look cleaner, but my local shops only stocked the standard 1/4" and 5/16" barbs. It is a tight enough fit for me that I am not sure the hose clamp is that critical, but I add one on the liquid side just to be safe.

My original crimp tool lasted about 6 or 7 years, and then I started to have some failures. I switched to Oetiker clamps and never looked back. As a bonus, they're way easier to remove.

Thanks, appreciate the input.

Any chance you could help me find the HDPE 1" brass barb fitting online? I'm going to check my local hardware stores on the way home but not sure how common this fitting is.

And just so I'm sure, I'll need this 1" brass barb to go into the well's HDPE pipe, then the other ends threads into a 1" brass 90, then it would be whatever PEX connection to the other end. Does that sound right?

So far, just for reference, I've found a barb fitting, brass 90, PEX from 90

Am I close?

Another thread suggested this 20w pump with this fitting and I've been happy with it for the 6 months I've had it. I run my pump 24/7 to keep the water circulating and so far still working fine

Avanti 7.0 Cu. Ft. Chest Freezer - White $178 with 2 year warranty
https://www.pcrichard.com/Avanti/Avanti-7-0-Cu-Ft-Chest-Freezer-White/CF70B0W.pcrp

Bev Rite Air Distributor 5/16", CO2 Manifold(4way) $38.95
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4P4POY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Inkbird Itc-308 Digital Temperature Controller Outlet Thermostat $35
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011296704/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oetiker Stepless Ear Clamp 15.7 mm $11.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZJFWAG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Apollo
3/8 in. Stainless Steel PEX Barb Pinch Clamp $6.93
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-8-in-Stainless-Steel-PEX-Barb-Pinch-Clamp-10-Pack-PXPC3810PK/301541078

Bev Rite Beer Faucet and 4-Inch Shank Kit with Black Handle $24.95
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00829HM98/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Co2 Beer Regulator Two Product Dual Pressure $69.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M093URP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Beverage Factory Ball Lock Taps 1/4 $9.32
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005STZO4U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

25 Foot Clear 3/16" ID 7/16" OD FDA Approved Vinyl Tube $15.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HDNNYPO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

25 Foot Red Gas/Air Hose, 5/16 inch ID $ 22.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D8VKUWK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5 Gallon Cornelius Keg (Ball Lock) $129.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VUOE98/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1-1/4 in. x 30 ft. Camper Seal Foam Tape $6.97
https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-1-1-4-in-x-30-ft-Camper-Seal-Foam-Tape-02352/202066511
I had it in 2" wide, It is what i used to seal the collar to the freezer
the collar is not attached to the freezer at all besides the weight of the plywood,collar,lid. I am able to return the freezer back to factory without much effort.

3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. PureBond Red Oak Plywood $52.97
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Columbia-Forest-Products-3-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-PureBond-Red-Oak-Plywood-165956/100046409
Needed one and a half sheets

1 in. x 4 in. x 8 ft. Premium Kiln-Dried Square Edge Whitewood Common Board $ 6.72
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Premium-Kiln-Dried-Square-Edge-Whitewood-Common-Board-914681/100023465
Needed about 4 total. I ripped them down for bottom edge and then ripped them at 45degs for the corners


Parts Still needed:
Surface Mount Drip Tray
https://www.amazon.com/ACU-Precision-Sheet-Metal-0100-30/dp/B00WQ9M5K6/ref=sr_1_43?ie=UTF8&qid=1522070155&sr=8-43&keywords=beer+drip+tray

Hose clamps aren't even the best at doing their jobs. Most of the time you hear of someone losing a coolant hose it's because it popped off!

The IDEAL clamp is a stainless T bolt clamp like linked here.

a barbed coupler

https://www.amazon.com/LTWFITTING-Brass-Splicer-Mender-Fitting/dp/B00CHI04AY/

​

if your house has a crawl space, you can likely just replace the whole line without much hassle.

they're usually "add on" done after construction is complete, so it's just a hole drilled through your floor, and the hose goes down into the crawl space and then back up in the cabinet.

the tricky part is getting the new hose successfully down the old holes.

Something like this? I have a 1.5" pipe I can connect to, and tubing would be ideal...

usually to eyelets on the frame. You could either use something like this to attach to your seatstays. Or one of these.

I was just about to buy a set of fancy new hose clamps. Will 3/8" tubing be a pain to get on/off every time? Should I look at 1/2" tubing for an easier solution or will that run too large in diameter?

I've had that seat for 9 years. You never know what's going to happen in the city. I'll be prepared next time.

This pump: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018X2XT4/
This adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AB5X28G/

Since this is a main supply, and apparently carries a decent amount of pressure, you might should use brass coupler with hose clamps:

(Pick appropriate size...)

Anderson Metals Brass Hose Fitting, Union, 5/8" x 5/8" Barb link:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CESS6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wd12Cb962MKWV