I made this a couple months ago and the recent post of a DIY smoker and a request for more details prompted me to put this together.

Materials Needed:

• Mini Vacuum on ebay
  
• Smoking/Pipe Screens - 1 large - 1 small
  
• 3 feet of 1/4" interior diameter vinyl tubing
  
• 2 inches of 3/8" interior diameter vinyl tubing
  
• Brass Hose Barb
  
  I've added links to products similar to the ones I used and they're all available via Amazon but most items can be easily found locally for much less. I was able to buy the brass fitting and the vinyl tubing by the foot at a home improvement store. The pipe screens were less than 10 cents each at a local smoke shop. The ebay auction I linked to is by far the least expensive place to get the mini vacuum that I found.
  
  Start by inserting the Small Pipe Screen in the mouth of the Brass Hose Barb. This is a secondary screen to catch any small particles to prevent them from entering the vacuum. Insert the brass hose barb into a 1.5" - 2" piece of 3/8" vinyl tubing. You will connect this to the top of the mini vacuum. If you buy the sizes I indicate they will fit perfectly on the mini vacuum I linked to. Finally connect a 3 foot piece of the 1/4" vinyl tubing directly to the side outlet vent (again these will dry fit firmly) or you can use the flexible plastic piece that comes with the vacuum. I find this a little easier to add and remove and is more flexible.
  
  Once this is assembled, take the large pipe screen and form it into a cup using the back of a pen and insert it into the brass hose barb. This is where you will put your wood shavings. Any shavings work, I started by using larger pieces of hickory that I was shaving down using a microplane but it was time consuming so I purchased some of the PolyScience chips from the kitchen store. They work well and don't burn down quite as fast.
  
  To use the smoker, apply a flame to the wood chips until they start to ignite and turn on the vacuum. Once the vacuum starts you can remove the flame and it will give you about 20-30 seconds of smoke. Believe me this is more than enough. It produces a nice dense smoke that can be very potent.
  
  I put together a quick (and not my best work) video of the gun in action.
  Hope you enjoy!
  

I just buy the box of blue nitrile gloves with like 50 pairs or whatever (I do mostly lith printing, so I'm wary about soaking in all that formaldehyde too!) Once the print's in the tray, I pull a pair on. By the time I've fixed and have the print rinsed and in a holding tray, the gloves are probably really well washed. I just toss them on the counter, dry my hands, and use another pair for the next print. When I clean up for the day, I may have 4 or 5 pairs lying around. I just spread them out on the counter and they're dry by the next day, so I reuse them a few sessions. I have a hair dryer in the darkroom for various stuff, like checking test strips for dry-down changes (most warmtone paper gains about a half stop in the highs when dry), so I sometime blow my hands dry before putting a dry pair on, or even blow it into a damp pair of gloves. I think it takes me close to a year to go through a whole box, though my wife swipes some when she colors her hair!

Can't recall if I've mentioned this here, but I made some wooden supports that let a 16x20 or 20x24 tray rest on top of the bath tub. I got a 1/2" female pipe to hose-barb connector, and I keep a wrench in the bathroom (most US shower heads screw onto a 1/2" male pipe). So I unscrew the shower head, screw the hose barb in, and run vinyl tubing down to the tray; I stick a little shim under the tray, so when it fills, it overflows into the tub on the far side. I stick a piece of PVC in the tub drain, which keeps about 4" of water in the tub and then overflows into the pipe. So to wash 2 big prints, the water flows over the top print (in the tray), then down and across the print in the tub itself, and drains. Works really well and really just takes like 3 minutes to setup. (Luckily we have a bathroom near my darkroom that's only used when my kids come home). I like that I can use warm-ish water to wash the prints, it does speed diffusion of the fixer from the paper.

Dude, look at that link. Those pipes are included.

Listen, you can't have auto coolant lines incapable of being pressurized. A key feature of engine coolant lines is the fact that they are capable of holding pressure, which allows them to absorb more heat which may be passed through the radiator. If there's an opportunity for coolant to lose its pressurization, the entire engine heat dissipation system has effectively been hamstrung. The entire system will no longer be able to rise above a boiling temperature.

What's more, the Miata doesn't have a great cooling system to begin with. This is something which solomiata commented on years ago. You can see the home made fix on that site, but it's been further perfected by flyin' miata and is still for sale here with a great explanation as to its necessity.

Honestly, I would sooner bypass the heater core in its entirety than allow for a potential depressurization. Just go out and buy a 5/8" barb union, and tie the lines together until you can replace that pipe.

I just bought these and they're threaded on both sides so that what you linked to (or these which I also bought) should fit. I put them on some 5gal buckets and the seal is working great. Pretty happy with the setup so far :)

Yes the pump is for wort into the chiller. You could probably gravity feed it if the kettle was above the chiller. You also have to run santizer through the chiller before chilling, so the pump makes that easier.

I bought some cheap 14 gauge wire to wrap around the tube, it's just to maximize water-copper contact which helps a lot with cooler.

For the fittings I bought the following, for each end:
1/4 female tee
1/2" barb x 1/4 NPT x2
1/4 x 1/4 compression fitting

Easiest thing to do it just go to a local hardware store, start with a 1/4" x 10ft copper tube in your hand then start looking at the brass fittings and piece it together in front of you. How you attach it to your sink will depend on your faucet, I had to mcgyver a stupid reducer and hose clamp setup. Most hardware store reps could help you piece it all together if you have a photo and know your faucet size.

This is basically what I use...

The basics:

• Tote for your res
  
  
• Digital timer
  
  
• Pump
  
  
• Manifold (has an assortment of flow rate inserts so you can set it up how you want)
  
  
• fitting to attach hose from pump to manifold
  
  
• pump-to-manifold tubing
  
  
• Drip tubing
  
  Extras, that make things nice and easy:
  
  
• FloraFlex cap for even distribution through the medium
  
  
• Floraflex clips to hold the drip lines in place
  
  
  If you feed drain-to-waste, you'll want to come up with some way to collect runoff. Maybe something like THIS small HD tote, with a few holes drilled through the top. Just set your plant on top and it will collect all your runoff.

I've used a trash can in the past (I've got a jockey box now). Works pretty good. Regarding a co2 splitter, I just a brass t for my portable setup. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LNOSFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Like others have said, a triptan nasal spray or oxygen are your best bet. I'm on mobile right now. I'll link the parts on amazon that you'll need to get the oxygen setup without a doctor later.

Edit:
Regulator $28

Hose barb $3

Non-rebreather Mask $7

Just need a welding oxygen tank after that. Make sure you have the oxygen flow maxed at 15L and when turning on the tank valve, do it slowly.

Yes! That's the one that i have, and i love it.

Is it expensive? Yes.

Are there better alternatives? Probably.

But i absolutely love mine, it is a bit of a beast to disassemble and sanitize every time, but its not overbearing. I just got tired of loosing so much when i racked, and now i barely loose any mead from primary to secondary.

p.s. get these attachments. that way you can easily just let it siphon on its own.

1 & 2

yup, silicone tube and a ball valve to control the flow if I'm feeling fancy. I also put together a little u-bend out of these three pieces so I can just hook it to the lip of the mash & boil. I have this pump which was nice because some of those tan pumps don't come pre-wired with a dc plug

the immersion chiller is a major key, and with the pump whirlpooling my wort I've actually found that I can cool 5 gallons quicker than when I was doing 2 gallon brews lol

For gas last year I built a extended run system using a 14 gallon caddy. Took the hose off, put a brass fitting, fuel line and some fuel clamps. The you just need a fuel cap like this one which I like because it’s Made in the USA and includes a great magnetic dip stick and funnel. Lastly here is the quick disconnect fitting for the cap.

Fill it up and run all weekend long.

I think I've got it figured out, but I could use a help figuring out / confirming the parts and connections for a recirculating line cleaner for my keezer.


When I purchased the Mark II Keg & Carboy Washer it came with an inline attachment for the post that allows you to connect tubing on the side. I've done that and attached a swivel nut with a 1/4" barb so that I can hook up a gas or liquid disconnect and divert some of the flow into the gas or liquid dip tube while cleaning a keg.


Using the same pump and the abovementioned setup, would getting a pair of these (is this the right size threading?) and attaching them to either end of a length of tubing do the job? This would, in theory, connect the swivel nut at the end of the keg washer tube to the swivel nut of the beverage line that runs to a tap faucet (after removing the quick disconnect).

edit: to point to a different hose fitting (1/4" NPT rather than 1/8" NPT)

The biggest contributor to the amount of foam is the flow rate out of the tap. To reduce the foam, reduce the flow rate. You're using 11 PSI with a 5 ft line, which sounds like it would pour really fast.

Option 1: Lower pressure for serving

Bleed pressure from keg and set regulator to 2-5 PSI when serving. Re-pressurize when not serving so the beer doesn't go flat.

Pros: No extra equipment required.

Cons: Incredibly wasteful in terms of CO2. Using this method, I blasted through roughly a third of a 5# tank dispensing just one keg.

Option 2: Adjust beer line length

Make the line length longer according to the style of beer, to compensate for high pressure in the keg. This has to do with fluid dynamics. There is info available on this if you search; I remember seeing posts on this a few weeks ago.

Pros: simple, effective, and inexpensive

Cons: Requires a lot of cutting and re-clamping of beer lines for each different style of beer; no way of doing fine tuning of flow rate for more or less head; requires keeping a bigger inventory of tubing for different styles.

Option 3: Flow control

Put something in your draft system that allows you to adjust the flow rate without attaching/reattaching anything.

Pros: easy to control, less hassle/mess. Just turn a dial and get the flow rate exactly what you want it to be, to perform on-the-spot adjustments for the perfect pour.

Cons: more expensive, although I've seen plastic inline flow controllers like this $2.50 USD one

I have the Perlick 650SS tap on my kegerator and it works like a charm. If you're using a picnic tap or want to use a tap without built-in flow control, and you want something nice, you can get an inline flow control compensator like the one made by CM Becker, or (less expensive but still solid) make one using a stainless steel NPT ball valve and two hose barbs (clamps and plumber's tape not included).

Edit: info/links

I LOVE my Mash & Boil, especially after I upgraded it. Here are the things I bought for it to do my upgrade. It’s a good amount of money up front but worth it.



CHUGGER PUMP CPSS-CI-1 Stainless Steel 115 Volt Center Home Brewing System Beer Pump, 55” Cord WITH Plug, Inlet 3/4” x Outlet 1/2” MPT, ETL-Certified, USFDA Food Compliant Materials https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HERFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vECLBbD3PTY36


HFS(R) Homebrew Beer Wort Chiller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y41HCFP?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


White SiliconeTubing, 1/2"ID, 3/4"OD, 1/8"Wall, 10' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWU38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VECLBb3CM7H5Q


MRbrew Quick Disconnect 304 Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TCQF6Q?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


CONCORD 304 Stainless Steel Quick... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079J5X3XD?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Anderson Metals Brass Garden Hose... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMU7U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


LOKMAN Hose Clamp, 20 Pack Stainless Steel Adjustable 13-19mm Range Worm Gear Hose Clamp, Water Pipe Clamp for for Plumbing, Automotive and Mechanical Applications https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077R2PNVT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yHCLBbB7TH7W8


Dernord Full Port Ball Valve Stainless Steel 304 Heavy Duty for Water, Oil, and Gas with Blue Locking Handles (1/2" NPT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076D7WM9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wKCLBbEH1QPR0


HomeBrewStuff Stainless Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UI995XG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Yes sir.
This is a barb valve https://www.amazon.com/FPT-BARB-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0064OJDUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498193537&sr=8-1&keywords=barb+valve+1%2F2+1%2F2

This is camlocks https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1844.htm
All it is is a quicker way of changing tubing without the need to pull a tube off your barb valve.

The great thing about the brew hardware website is they explain how to install each and every part they sell.

I just meant to check the cheap stuff before you buy a fuel pump. Sounds like the pump is probably your issue though. I'd get a Walbro 255LPH from amazon. Oh and make sure to be EXTREMELY careful taking the hoses off the pump assembly because if there's any rust those metal lines will break off, which is not fun to deal with. I had to drill out the holes and then I pushed one of these through the hole and tightened this on the other side and then used some JB weld to make the tank air tight again.

Sorry I was on my phone before. let me see what i can find. I can't find the exact coupler I used but I might be able to find something else with some searching

ed: you're in luck, found a two step way using items available on amazon that connects to the 1/4" flare you originally tried to shove the hose directly onto. when i got my oven in, i needed it working THAT DAY, and the local hvac supply place didn't have 1/4" flare swivel couplers in stock.

http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-5911-4-Inch-Female-Adapter/dp/B008E5CVKA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419741989&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+inch+female+flare+swivel

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PKL6Z2/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

You may also want a hose clamp or two to go with that

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Tie-33200-4-Inch-5-Stainless/dp/B006IOZ3YU/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1419742116&sr=1-1&keywords=1%2F4%22+hose+clamp

when i did it locally, i found a 1/2" Flare to 1/2" NPT swivel, and had to get some teflon tape and put a 1/2" NPT x 1/4" barb on it instead.

Sure,

inline heater: 150w/300w/500w In-Line External Heater AQUARIUM HEATER - 150/300/500 WATT 1/2"-5/8" (300 Watt 5/8" (16/22mm) Hose) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MG8K0GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FIh2Ab1QSTN6J

Also if you're using a sunsun with 3/4 inch tubing your going to need 3/4 to 5/8 adapters: Eldon James C12-10BN Automotive Black Nylon Reduction Coupler, 3/4" Hose Barb to 5/8" Hose Barb (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VNE00Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OKh2AbZ8J5E3F

Then your going to need a couple hose clamps and about a foot of strong 5/8 tubing, I just drove to the local Auto parts store since they sell hose by the foot and it was less than $5 for hose and clamps. Whereas Amazon only sells long spools for $30+

I made a book-length comment a while ago on here, lemme copy-paste it. This was for carboy-keg, but it's a similar idea. Just get creative about it ;)

"Sorry about the late reply, but here it goes.

Since you have a glass carboy and a siphon, I think you have 2 options: pressurized transfer and unpressurized (read: gravity) transfer.

First is pressurized, which is what I did. When I was doing research when I first did it, a lot of people used caps like these. Basically, they would use the large hole to put the siphon in, and the smaller hole to connect to the gas. The Gas connection should be easier with the cap.

To connect the gas, turn the regulator down to about 1 psi. be careful not to go too high, since the glass carboy can explode with pressure, so I wouldn't go higher than 1 psi. Close the tank once it's set, and disconnect the gas manifold from the regulator. This tube should go on the smaller hole on the cap, but again, this isn't how I did it so your mileage may vary. make sure you use a hose clamp and clamp it down tight too, because you don't want your CO2 to leak out. Essentially, this will push the beer from the top, down through the siphon, out the top of the cap, and down into the keg.

The siphon should fit down the cap, but if it doesn't you should be able to use a silicone tube that's the same OUTER diameter as the holes INNER diameter. The siphon hose will connect to the beer side of the keg -- or the side of the keg that normally dispenses the beer. In my case, the actual connector was clamped shut in such a way that I couldn't remove it, so instead I removed my faucet head and connected the 2 tubes. Either use a tube union like this one or jerry-rig something up. Make sure to use more hose clamps, because otherwise you'll have beer leaking all over which is no bueno.

At this point you should have a connection from the gas to the carboy and from the carboy to the keg. The last thing to do is know how to vent the keg. I have pin lock kegs without the pull-tab relief valve, so I stick a screwdriver into the unused connector to open it, allowing it to vent the gas that is being displaced by the incoming beer. On ball-lock kegs, they usually feature a nice pull-ring valve on the lid that can be pulled to release the pressure. Either way, you will need to release the pressure regularly during the process or else the pressure will equalize and the beer will stop flowing.

At this point, you should be able to start. Make sure all of the connections are tight, the connector is plugged into the keg, and you can vent the pressure. Open the CO2 tank valve, and make sure the regulator is still at a light 1psi or lower. The pressure of the gas will force the beer up into the siphon and down into the beer line, filling the keg from the bottom. This forces the gas out through the top of the keg, which is where you release the pressure that builds up as it equalizes.

Once it's done filling, turn off the CO2 tank and disconnect all of the tubes, and you have a full keg of beer!


The gravity version (which I haven't done) is basically the entire thing, but the carboy needs to be higher than the keg, and instead of a CO2 connection there . . .nothing. This obviously exposes some of the beer to the air, which is not good, but it probably is a lot less likely to explode. "

Thanks, appreciate the input.

Any chance you could help me find the HDPE 1" brass barb fitting online? I'm going to check my local hardware stores on the way home but not sure how common this fitting is.

And just so I'm sure, I'll need this 1" brass barb to go into the well's HDPE pipe, then the other ends threads into a 1" brass 90, then it would be whatever PEX connection to the other end. Does that sound right?

So far, just for reference, I've found a barb fitting, brass 90, PEX from 90

Am I close?

Another thread suggested this 20w pump with this fitting and I've been happy with it for the 6 months I've had it. I run my pump 24/7 to keep the water circulating and so far still working fine

I'm glad to see more people are mentioning this, it's (IMO) a much better way to leak test without the risk of actual leaks. Some Amazon links for my current setup:

You'll need a pressure gauge, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087UCI8C/ has a relatively low maximum for high sensitivity (easy to see if there's a drop)

You'll need a valve you can hook a hand pump on to (like what you'd use to pump up a bike tire -- I don't recommend an electric pump because of the low pressure you need). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PLI4BA/ is in the same threading as the gauge.

You'll need a tee to connect these things to -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQUTBS/

Finally, connecting the tee to your rig. I take a scrap of tubing, put a fitting on one end, and slip the other over: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFNKBO/ (check for your tube's inside diameter!).

Assembly is pretty straightforward, wrap some pipe tape around each component's threads and screw into the tee. Before connecting to your rig, you may want to cap the open end and pressurize it a bit to make sure you're not starting with any leaks. Connect in to your fill or drain port as appropriate, and slowly pressurize the system. You don't need a ton, only 8-10 psi is plenty, and is more than the water will be operating at. Mark the gauge position, and come back in a few hours. If the needle has moved, you've got a leak -- you can swab glycerin or dawn soap around your seals to find where. If not, you know that air at higher than normal operating pressure isn't leaking out, and that's a nice tolerance to know you have!

One of these attached to your regulator with a couple of checked shutoffs would let you shut off each keg individually, which is nice sometimes. It'd let you dial your pressure up for carbonating on one keg while shutting the gas off to the other, for instance.

But just a simple 5/16" barbed tee to split the line works fine, too, if you're okay with unhooking a keg while messing with the other.

a barbed coupler

https://www.amazon.com/LTWFITTING-Brass-Splicer-Mender-Fitting/dp/B00CHI04AY/

​

if your house has a crawl space, you can likely just replace the whole line without much hassle.

they're usually "add on" done after construction is complete, so it's just a hole drilled through your floor, and the hose goes down into the crawl space and then back up in the cabinet.

the tricky part is getting the new hose successfully down the old holes.

Ok so no experience doing high volume Ejuice bottling, but had an idea for you.

First thing is use gravity, So get a container for the storage of the juice you are dispensing into the smaller bottles. Something large and that you can suspend from above. Also something that you can drill a hole into. Once you have this drill a hole towartds one edge of the bottom. Find yourself a stainless steel valve and get some stainless fittings to go from the bucket into the valve. Just screw one side into the valve and place a nut on the inside of the bucket to tighten it up to the hex part. Maybe get a longer one so you have plenty clearance on the handle. Use silicone or simiar food grade washers to seal this up. Maybe even a caulking if there is a food grade type.

At this point you have two choices. You can go straight into a barb fitting, then some flexible hose down to where your bottles will sit at. Just open the valve fill to weight close and move on. Or....

If it were me I would go into barb fitting then tubing then back into barb fitting and another valve. I would then measure this section between the valves to be the exact amount I want in each bottle. After the second valve it would go back into barb then hose for a final stretch of tubing to the fill area.

This way you would open first valve fill area to second valve, close first open second, fill bottle, close second, rinse and repeat.

Open valve 1, close valve 1, open valve 2, close valve 2, bottle filled. If you did around 3/8" to 1/2" on the tubing diameter even heavy VG should flow well just with gravity.

Once again I have never created a setup like this, but the problem intrigued me. Also just listed stainless fittings in general. I assume your doing this commercialy, and would use food grade which I googled to be 304, you may already be well aware of all of this, just thought I'd add it.

Here's my nice stainless 1/2" setup. I had a brass 3/8" setup but it's slow and I was paranoid of lead leaching out of it.

Spigot + bulkhead

1/2" barb

Bazooka screen

Silicone tubing

You might forego the bazooka screen and just use a brew bag like https://www.brewinabag.com/. Or perhaps a false bottom if you have some extra cash to burn. The 12" bazooka screens don't fit, so you have to be a little careful with stuck sparges if you get this 6".

BTW I'm using the 10 gallon cylindrical cooler, not the rectangular kind.

This one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018X2XT4/
And this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AB5X28G/

Anderson Metals Brass Compression Hose Fitting, Connector, Barb x NPT Female

http://amzn.com/B003CEN5BW

Not sure your size exactly it this should point you in the right direction.

Since this is a main supply, and apparently carries a decent amount of pressure, you might should use brass coupler with hose clamps:

(Pick appropriate size...)

Anderson Metals Brass Hose Fitting, Union, 5/8" x 5/8" Barb link:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CESS6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wd12Cb962MKWV