Normally trail riders want easy access to these tow points. Yes, they absolutely can be used, but standard OEM mounts are a hassle.

Generally if they aren't easy to see and get to on the trail without climbing under a rig, the average cable puller will not consider them tow points, and some trail leaders might not let you go on a trail without purpose installed after market hooks. Usually vehicles only have one front and rear tow point and you need two front and two rear for safety and convenience. Hooks are considered basic off road items.

However, all this depends on how you plan to use it off road. Are you wanting to trail it, or camp, light excursions?

They are cheap and easy to install and can be tucked under the bumper if you like. Just bolt them to the frame, don't weld them there. Welds will generally fail before bolts because lets face it, you will be "snatched" more than pulled if you are stuck and not high-centered.

Get at least one (or two) good tow rope(s) and attach it before you go out and just toss the free end in your window, or on your roof. This way when you get stuck, you can climb out and just toss the rope to the rig in front of you and your are out in a jiffy. This will really go a long way to good karma on a trail if you aren't asking others to come get you, or slowing down the others because you unhook after every pull. You will end up using your rope 4x more than a winch anyway unless you are alone on a trail.

Any wheeling will be horrible on gas milage, but if you want to be tidy and keep your rig looking clean, I have seen more than a few people use hitch-mounted winch mounts with handles and only have the winch there when wheeling. And you can toss it in the back and lock it up when your not using it as a daily driver.

Installing a tow hitch in the front and rear to move a winch from front to back as you need is not perfect, but it is very acceptable when done safely, so you get two-for-one winching. Make sure you take good measurements, or have one custom made, or even just go to your local 4x4 shop and get them to help you with the measurements. Never significantly cut/alter an OEM hitch for obvious reasons.

A secondary benefit to a tow hitch on both ends is you can use it as a tow point instead/in addition to tow points and move this around as needed also.

As far as a winch, you don't need a 18k monster, but enough to tug yourself out. General rules are 2-3x your vehicles weight. On a trail, most often if you are in a caravan, a good trail leader will put you sandwiched between two experienced trailers, so about 1/2 the time you will just pull rope to the rig in front and use it as your anchor. So weight shouldn't be a big issue.

Also get a snatch block and a tree saver so you can pull yourself out if you need to. This way you don't harm the tree, but still use it to get yourself out.

1. tires
   
2. tow points (however you want) and ropes
   
3. winch
   
4. lift?
   
   But first, tires.
   
   Ask anyone that has been on a trail, MT tires (not AT's) should be your first investment. You can get a really good MT that will last a very long time as daily use if you do not get an overly aggressive tread. And they look badass.

We use the hanging Planet Wise wet bags in place of a diaper pail. Same as someone mentioned: just hang a small hook off the side of the changing table (this was the bigger pain to find) and bring it into the bathroom anytime we needed to spray down a diaper, then down into the laundry room once full. Since kiddo is a little older, I only do laundry roughly every 5 days, so I have 4 of these, 2 for each cycle of laundry. Planet Wise's medium and large bags are great for travel/day trips, plus we have a small or 2 for quick excursions when we don't want to carry a lot. The smalls also are great for when clothing needs to be changed, but we don't want it in with diapers.

Upfront, the smell wasn't too bad, so we could leave the wet bags hanging open. Now that we're all into solids, we leave the bag zipped closed. If it's been an extra smelly few days, I'll switch out the bags before they're full, but otherwise the smell seems to be contained. I have an extra sensitive nose, which hubby can attest to.

Also as someone said, Nikki's diapers tends to have great sales on this brand, plus earth day is coming up. They're also available on Amazon if you want more variety of prints.

Good luck, easy and speedy delivery wishes!

Here's the hook we grabbed for the changing table:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0794ZNLGF/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_fuPTCbQK0QBEV

there are sprays but they don't last long. i would recommend getting a roll of spiked deep pile carpet protector and putting it on the floor spike side up. it will be fine for you with shoes on, while discouraging the cats completely. this stuff is easy to clean, while home depots and lowes have this on sale for a few bucks per yard. obviously you'll need to put enough distance down along their path so the cats don't simply jump over it. don't worry, it won't hurt their paws, it's simply uncomfortable for them.

http://www.amazon.com/27X75-PROTECTOR-Multy-Industries-5300057/dp/B000M7S4EK

another idea is to use an air or water spray device that motion or collar key fob activates. put one of them on each side of the doorway standing sentry to keep the cats out, while you the human step over it's detection grid. after a few hits they won't come back for more, so the spray and battery should keep for a while.

http://www.amazon.com/Contech-StayAway-Motion-Activated-Pet-Deterrent/dp/B000DZFFN4

of course, the simplest solution would be to install a door and keep it closed. if you need to keep the door open a crack to hear what's going on upstairs and for air exchange, simply put a long hook and eye door lock on the inside and purposely mount it so keep the door open a few inches while locked. sound & air exchanges, but the cats won't squeeze through. if the gap is ~3" you can still lock/unlock the hook from the eye even from the opposite side of the door by inserting your fingers through the door crack. a door chain or hasp works well, but this hook does a better job of keeping the door ajar if the doorway gets drafty.

http://www.amazon.com/6-Gate-Hook-and-Eye/dp/B00004Z0TU

this is what i use to keep my cats out of the bedroom, while still being able to exchange fresh air and loud conversation between rooms.

.

BTW if you keep cats in the same home as a high sanitation work space, you may need to invest in a good mechanical HEPA filter. I have a similar need as you, and got an;

http://austinair.com/products/healthmate-series/

it's expensive upfront, but it's low filter replacement costs over time will make it cheap and low maintenance over the lifetime of your cat. I've had mine over a decade, and it's whisper quiet and works as good as new as long as i replace the drum filter every 5 years, and wash out the nylon pre filter annually (or semi annually depending on the environment) replace the pre filter with a new one every 5 years too. one is included with that replacement filter drum.

http://www.bestfilters.com/Austin-Air-Healthmate-Standard-Replacement-Air-Filter_p_251.html

http://www.bestfilters.com/Austin-Air-Healthmate-Standard-Size-Replacement-Pre-Filter_p_239.html

if you are *coin mining using multi-GPU servers, a HEPA filter may dramatically reduce the amount of fan/heatsink cleaning you will need to do over time.

you could get an automatic coop door:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TONTHRG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We have a coop run that is highly secured, and a main coop that is also secured. We close the coop run manually, and the main coop house closes automatically. All it took was closing the girls in the main coop run then letting themselves get locked out overnight a few times for them to learn to get in the house. Now we have gone down after dark more than once and all the girls are in the house and the door closed.

you would need to secure the main run area better to use our approach though. Our run is enclosed on all sides (including bottom) with 1/2" hardware cloth. Right next to the main house door (where the girls tend to sit if they get locked out) is #8 mesh. All mesh is secured between pieces of cedar framing with screws running through the cedar and the mesh.

We use the slide type doors which I feel are more secure than other options. one I made myself with diamond plate aluminum (if you can get flat aluminum I recommend it) that slides between rails of flat bar aluminum that have a gap created by washers. You can also buy a very similar design if you want to:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018KIVUC0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The biggest thing you need to do to secure your coop/run area is enclose the entire thing in hardware cloth. It needs to be the small 1/2" hardware cloth like here: https://www.amazon.com/Hardware-Galvanized-Chicken-Supports-Poultry/dp/B015PD9F52/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1499439834&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hardware+cloth&psc=1.

When I say enclose, I mean fully enclose on all sides including top and bottom. The cloth must be screwed/anchored in place (not just stapled). If you use larger cloth then animals such as racoons can reach through and grab the chickens. You should include the house in the enclosure. If you do not secure the bottom then they will just dig under and in.

I've had animals try and fail to get into my coop. I came out one day to find blood all over one side of the coop where an animal had tried to scratch its way in and lost claws. I also have come out to find that animals had tried to dig under the coop only to find hardware cloth there as well. you MAY be able to get away with just putting a hardware cloth skirt a few feet out from the coop but I prefer to just have the floor be hardware cloth.

Finally, all latches that allow us to get into the coop are safety latches since racoons can figure out normal latches. we mostly use hook and eyes like these (I use stainless though): https://www.amazon.com/Zinc-Plated-Wire-Safety-4-Pack/dp/B01LYNKFIL/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499440049&sr=1-1&keywords=hook+and+eye+safety+latch

Though our main coop door does have this sort of latch (which we intend to add a padlock to if there are signs of animals getting in through it): https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-National-Hardware-CD1271-Sliding/dp/B009YNW3QS/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499440093&sr=1-12&keywords=gate+latch+lock

My two tricks: things for doors & lysol wipes.

I use this style of shoe rack and this or this style of hanging rack.

Everything off the floor! It's easy to use them to organize-organize, or easy to just get crap off the floor so that it's not on the floor, and not piled on a countertop or table. When I organize-organize I can use the top row for things I need to keep out of kid hands. I usually make the bottom row or bottom two rows for kids - with toys or clothing they can use on their own. Middle rows for other necessities. I once organized a baby shoe rack this way: Top: Off-limits baby items, medicines, first aid, sharp things. Second & third row: Diapers (with wipes in one pocket). Fourth and fifth rows: Onesies, socks, hats, burp cloths, flannel receiving blankets (I roll everything, usually), or quick things I might want to stuff in the diaper bag when I leave the house. My 10-year-old has one...She's got all the "dangerous" stuff at the top - scissors and glue, and some pointy art tools. Then she sorted all her different art supplies into them by color...and has several pockets dedicated to sorted legos.

The racks...Are just to hang everything up. I even have them on the front door - purses and backpacks mostly with a few hoodies b/c we've had nippy weather occasionally. In my room, I hang my towel on the bottom, but I also hang my jeans and bras so they don't end up on the floor so I can wear them again. In the kids' rooms, pajamas, jeans, and random items that aren't really dirty and could be worn again, but maybe aren't "normal" rotation.

Oh, and I have a basic shelf near the front door - and have several baskets there. I keep a couple of pairs of the kids socks (like a secret stash), as well as their shoes there...I have a basket for "outdoor" stuff (we live in a townhome with a shared yard...and we don't really have room for an outdoor toybox...so the chalk and bubbles and all that comes in at the end of the night)...I have a basket of swimming stuff (b/c we frequently swim at my brother's house) like bathing suits, goggles, sunscreen, etc...I have a basket for library materials that need to go back (we actually just store them all here, so they don't get left in bedrooms)...And then I have an upper shelf with a flashlight, umbrellas, a couple of hats...and some things I need to return to a friend.

And even though I used cloth diapers, and switched our whole house over to reusable products instead of paper napkins and paper towels - I still have cleaning wipes so I can just swipe a few things when it looks like it needs it.

I just find that when I can put things in a place...even if it's not the idea place...having it contained makes it feel less messy.

Thanks so much!

Unfortunately those birds are no longer in stock, but I got them at Create for Less and they still have lots of varieties in stock and they're all pretty cheap. AliExpress also has a lot of options.

In order to get the birds ready to hang I pushed back their little wire legs, drilled a hole in their back between the wings, and then inserted a screw eye hook. Once those were all done I cut identical lengths of very lightweight fishing line to hang them from. Instead of trying to tie a knot, I threaded on a crimp, put the end of the line through the screw hook, and then back up through the crimp. I used a crimping tool to seal the crimp and then they were good to go! Let me know if you have any other questions :)

Get you something like this

Then you can buy extra magnets (stronger / cheaper) and put it anywhere you want. They are very secure and convenient.

I used a setup like that in my old work shop. Worked great to hold tools or my phone, etc. while tinkering in the shop.

Yeah definitely screw in. Super easy to install. 30 lb weight loading.

Here's the Amazon link though you can get them anywhere:

4 Complete Sets - Large 2.25"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXZ1XZC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Heavy Duty Pad Eye Plate Staple Ring Hook Loop U-Shaped Sail Shade Hardware - Wall Ceiling Hammock Hooks Hanger for Swing Suspension - Stainless Steel  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GHY2Z3V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-qGrDbYRCAZNB

These are rated for swings, two of these in the top of a doorway are rated well above your weight. Clip some carabiners on your ring straps and set up becomes almost instant.

And if you rent, when you move out all that will remain will be a few screw holes. I would recommend some heavier duty screws but that's because I over support everything, I have to hang very heavy equipment as a regular part of my job and I trust these.

Okay, few quick things:

To get around the "no adhesive on door" you could get an over the door hanger, and attach things to that. Just measure your door width to get the right size. Like these, they come in various sizes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MAWLU1L

There are peephole cameras, or "endoscope cameras" that have a thin fiber optic lens that you could snake through the door gap.

For when you're home, get a "burglar bar"/"apartment door security bar" - that is a brace that you set on your side that will make it harder to force the door open.

Also you can have a handyman or locksmith install one of these, which makes the door harder to pry or kick open but could possibly be installed without requiring any actual modification to the door (if there's enough gap). Just measure and make sure you get the right size (or get one from the locksmith): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006GDULOK

Ed: okay that last one would help more on a wood door, I see you have a metal door, so probably not much additional security.

Can you install things on the inside as long as they don't attach to the door? You could put holders for bars on either side of the door, assuming the jambs are reasonably sturdy.

Also internal camera and motion detector, check it before you go home so you don't walk into an intrusion.

Here are some instructions to follow.

Joists don't take well to lateral twisting forces, so I would get some additional clear 2x6 to act as blocking between the joist you hang the swing from and the adjacent one(s).

Some of those joists have enough big enough knots in unhelpful places that I'd want to sister the one I'm hanging from with a second joist of clear timber. If you rip down a wider one, you can end up with a joist to hang from that has the 2 hooks level, because it tapers to 5-and-a-half inches at the gutter end and is notched to fit over the ledger at the house end. Swings that have one end hung from a higher point with longer chains swing funny, with an odd twisty motion. And just using a longer lag-eye at the higher end to make the eyes level is bad news for metal-fatigue problems.


I've seen plenty of porch swings hung successfully with the standard hardware-store National Swing Hangers, but I'm much more comfortable when the "weight capacity" is 5X or more greater than the expected weight.

Pegboard from amazon. Great for additional storage without having to put holes in the wall :) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079C25564/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xlo2CbDY46RQ2

They're just these--ordered them from Amazon, super easy to use!

That sounds like it will work, I think I have a few of these and they've worked pretty well for me. I keep one in my sewing kit too on a string for waving around the floor if I drop a needle, lol.

I bought an awesome coat rack on Amazon for $13. It goes right over my bedroom door and I use it to hang certain jackets and all of my scarves! Here it is!

Thanks! Unfortunately, the magnets I bought before are out of stock. I'm afraid to buy different ones and have the new ones be thicker or less thick than my original ones. The four I'm using work pretty well so I'll just monitor Amazon's stock for the ones I already used and pick up a couple more when they're available again.

If I know that I'm going to wear them the next day I have a hook on the back of the bedroom door. I'll wear jeans for several days but everything else goes on clean each day. Somehow hoodies last for weeks!

Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Premier-Housewares-Hook-Over-Hanger/dp/B00BJYVNXO

OK. You need a few things, first:

Stud finder......

Electronic: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zircon-StudSensor-HD55-Stud-Finder-65945/205143494

Or a magnetic on, that finds the screws in the ceiling: http://www.homedepot.com/p/C-H-Hanson-Magnetic-Stud-Finder-03040/202563186

Hooks.....

https://www.amazon.com/Zinc-Plated-Steel-Screw-3-Piece/dp/B01HS3IU2G?th=1

A cheap drill: https://www.harborfreight.com/18-volt-38-in-cordless-drilldriver-with-keyless-chuck-21-clutch-settings-62868.html

Some drill bits: http://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DECKER-Work-Bench-Drill-Bit-Set-17-Piece-15097/204734904

Locate your rafters, and mark the location lightly with a pencil. Should be 12", 16", or 24" apart. You can attach this rack to a single rafter, or hang it from two of them. Now that you know where the rafters (studs) are, you can decide if you can live with the location.

If you can, great. Drill two holes (slightly smaller than the screw hooks) into the rafter for the two hooks that are attached to the pot rack.

Install the j-hooks, and secure your pot rack.

It goes at the end of a bungee cord. I cant find one that ends with a loop like yours. This is the best I could find. http://www.amazon.com/Keeper-Corporation-Steel-Hooks-Count/dp/B000BOAG04/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407955902&sr=8-3&keywords=bungee+hook

ordered.
door alarm

door security guard

hook and eye qty 2

probably more than you need but that means you will have what you need.

Find someone to help someday on reddit or IRL. today you tomorrow me.

You could use mini-bungi cords and two nails, one on the lid, and one on the hive body, or something little and un-noticeable, and easy to disconnect. Maybe one of those eye-hook things, like this: They are cheaper than this by far at Lowe's or home depot https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-S750-490-SAFETY-GATE/dp/B00004Z0OS

Over the door hooks are amazing. I have one in my bedroom and bathroom. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Premier-Housewares-Hook-Over-Hanger/dp/B00BJYVNXO/ref=sr_1_5?crid=21AZX38H8V2TY&keywords=over+the+door+hanger&qid=1569501383&s=gateway&sprefix=over+the+do%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-S750-490-SAFETY-GATE/dp/B00004Z0OS

4 dollar solution, lol

These things work pretty well.

I recommend replacing the metal hooks with plastic hooks. Just cause those are horrobale to walk into. Plastic ones flex & can break which os better than being peirced.

Otherwise looks cool shit, my younger self would have been pumped.

https://www.amazon.com/WallPeg-Plastic-Pegboard-Hooks-75-pk/dp/B00GWP1FF6


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GSYSI1A/ref=pd_aw_sim_469_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Z43NE0GY3Z0XB7QQ7WNP

These work well to fix that issue:

https://smile.amazon.com/Lehigh-Group-Crawford-18025-25PK-Locks/dp/B000BQR7BI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499058932&sr=8-1&keywords=pegboard+locks

So do these: https://smile.amazon.com/WallPeg-100-pk-Pegboard-Hooks/dp/B00GSYSI1A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499058932&sr=8-3&keywords=pegboard+locks

Also, zip ties.

Attach them to the bottom of the shelf so they'll hold onto the washer/dryer. These work quite well -- I've used them to attach a broom and mop hanger to the side of my stackable washer and dryer.

There is a $2 solution to the problem: A hook 'n eye latch. It's a $4 solution if you want to put one on each side of the door.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-75-0490-Hook-Eyes/dp/B00004Z0OS/

They sell these that help keep the hooks from falling out.

If you find the hooks have a problem staying on the pegboard, I've had decent luck using these for my tools: Hook locks
If you search Amazon, or your local Home Depot, there are lots of other options too.

I get it. If you use these you won't have that problem.

Also, you can get a lot of options besides hooks. Baskets, prackets, etc.... they're extremely versatile.

"Store broke their security tag remover thing..."

Their magnet broke? Yeah, sure it did...

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-S750-490-SAFETY-GATE/dp/B00004Z0OS

[This is where its at if you dont feel like gluing a bunch of shit.] (http://www.amazon.com/Crawford-Light-Duty-Peg-Locks/dp/B000BQR7BI)

Here's what I use:

$14 Door Rack off Amazon

I can't close my closet door with it on, but I can hide 6 pairs of pants completely and conveniently out of site.

You could always glue a neodymium magnet on the bottom of the can and use that to attach it to the roof of your car. That would prevent damaging your car. With 88lb+ of holding force, I doubt the can will go anywhere unless you go through a car wash.