(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best pipe fittings & pipes

Cable Technician Here: Make sure that when pre-wiring a house, you consider WHERE the equipment is going and WHAT equipment is going where.

Cable Television will for the forseeable future always require dedicated lines, installing a home director's panel is highly advisable.

Also, When choosing coaxial cable, I'll go ahead and tell you some of the best stuff to go with is either Perfect-Flex or Commscope Coaxial cable.

This Stuff Here Is awesome, because it has good shielding, AND it's cross compatible with Satellite and Cable Television. The big thing you're looking for is it's capable of doing 3Ghz frequencies. Cable televsion only uses 5-860Mhz as a standard right now, but Satellite uses freq. as high as 2.85Ghz.

Alongside the equipment itself, you're going to want the proper end connectors, for that, leave that to TWC. Essentially after you run the wiring TWC will do ALL the connectorization for you. If you do want to do it yourself...

You'll Need a Compression Tool, a Cable Prep Tool and Fittings.

Splitting, you want to do the Home run for this reason. All footage matters greatly, its easiest to get the best splitting, and most equal distrobution through your house by using a smart panel. Preferably located as close to the Electrial Meter (because your Feed line must be close to power for grounding) as possible.

Aside from that, I'd be glad to help if you wanted to drop a pm to me sometime, I can assist with all aspects of your setup. I just enjoy doing cable work, and would love to help.

Sorry I'm late to respond, but if you want to reply to someone, you need to click the "reply" link under their comment. Then add your comment as a reply to them, it will notify them you replied, and they'll know the reply is for them.

This reply is probably a bit long, lol. But I'm bored, so I go into some detail, and give some suggestions on tools n' such you can use for various things. You don't have to use them, obviously.

===

• Yes, break down all the starches before fermenting. Yeast can't use starches, they will release some enzymes, but none that will break down starches. The enzymes that break down starches come from the grain itself, or you add them. This is why you do the iodine test after mashing, but before fermenting, it is testing for the presence of starches, if it's blue, than all the starches haven't been converted and the yeast won't turn those starches into alcohol. So you need to continuing mashing, maybe add enzymes if you haven't already.
  
  
• 2lbs of sugar should be enough for the batch.
  
  
• The barley does need to be milled. The distiller shop should be able to crush/mill it for you, or if there is a feed supply store nearby, they might be able to do it for you. But whole grains aren't going to work because the starches will be trapped inside. Grain seeds are essentially made up of 3 parts: bran, endosperm, and germ. The bran is the outer shell that protects everything but it also contains some vitamins, the endosperm is where the starches and enzymes are contained, and the germ is where the actual plant embryo is, as well as vitamins and fats are contained. Milling/crushing/grinding is what breaks that bran off, and will make the endosperm (starches and enzymes) available to be dissolved into the water. If that bran is still there, everything will be trapped inside.
  
  
• The enzymes I mentioned, you would add them before pitching (adding) the yeast, to help break down the starches in the grains. I would specifically add them at the 150F (65C) mark, that is within the safe temperatures for both of them. Glucoamylase will start to denature at 158F (70C), and alpha-amylase will start to denature at around 161F (72C), and if you didn't know, denatured enzymes (proteins) don't work anymore.
  
  ====
  
  I do my mashing in a 5gal stainless steel pot, and I do my fermenting in these 5gal buckets (foodsafe from Home Depot). I use these lids, as it has an extendable spout which is the perfect diameter for a No. 7 size drilled rubber stopper, which I stick the airlock in.
  
  For the actual mashing process. I do the following. So, not far off from what you do, except the starting temperature, since going above 161F can damage some of your enzymes and slow things down. These steps haven't failed me yet.
  
  
• Heat the water up to 158F (70C)
  
• Add grains when it's at that temp or slightly below it.
  
• Let it cool down to 150F (65C), and hold it there for an 1h to 1.5h. But it has to stay at ~150F the entire time.
  
• Pull out the grains (which are in a brew bag, mentioned below).
  
• I personally do an iodine test at this point, before moving on to cooling. To see if there are any starches left over. If there is still starch, and I haven't added enzymes already, I will add enzymes, 1/2tsp each (alpha and gluco), and I'll hold it at 150F for another 30min.
  
• I let mine cool down to between 70F (20C) and 75F (24C), depending on the room temp. You can use an immersion chiller if you have one (I made mine, explanation below), or an ice bath, if you want to speed up cooling it down from 150F to 75F.
  
• Then pitch the yeast.
  
  I mix up the yeast culture as soon as I hit the 150F temp of the mash, by pouring the yeast (1tbsp) into 2cups of warm water with a pinch of sugar, a pinch of DAP (aka diammonium phosphate), and a pinch of Magnesium sulfate (aka epsom salt, I bought at walmart in a large jug). Then I just let it sit while the yeast rehydrates and starts doing it's thing. When the mash is down to around 80F, I pour that mash into a sanitized 5gal bucket, then when it hits between 75F to 70F, I pour the yeast mix into the mash in the bucket, close the lid, put in the stopper+airlock, and leave it alone for about 3 days, before I check on it.
  
  When I check on it, if it has slowed down significantly, or is stuck. I do the following:
  
  

1. I will check the temp, and warm/cool it if needed to get it back to between 70F (20C) and 75F (24C).
   
2. If the temp isn't off, I will check pH, if it's between 5 and 5.5, everything is good, if not I use citric acid (pull it down) or calcium carbonate (pull it up) to fix pH. Closer to 5 is better than closer to 5.5, ideally 5.2 to 5.5 is the best. Some people will use oyster shells and add them before pitching yeast, to act as a pH buffer. It does work, since they are essentially made up of calcium carbonate. I'd recommend soaking in water+bleach (10% solution, 10mL bleach, 90mL water) for 30min then rinsing under tap water, then letting them dry out, if you go this route, to make sure any bacteria are dead. Then you can put them in the ferment bucket in their own small brew bag, under the big brew bag, or in one of those stainless steel tea strainers, so you don't need to fish them out of the grains/trub afterwards which is a pain in the ass. Ideally, by the end of the ferment, if you don't want to distill it right away (within a few days), you can let the pH drop as low as 4, to stave off any bacterial infection.
   
3. If pH is fine, it usually means there isn't enough nutrients, so I will put in 1/2tsp of DAP, and 1/2tsp of Magnesium sulfate, for 5gal that is. Might have to adjust pH after adding those.
   
   That usually accounts for all the stuck fermentation issues.
   
   ===
   
   

• For my immersion chiller. I use a 72" length of uncoated corrugated stainless steel tubing I bought from Houzz, and then I bought a faucet to garden hose adapter, and 2 of these 3/4" NPT to garden hose adapters. So it goes Sink faucet > faucet adapter > garden hose > hose to NPT adapter > CSST > hose to NPT adapter > garden hose > tub drain. There are other ways to do it, but I had the CSST already just laying around unused. You could probably just buy a piece of copper pipe, bend it into a coil, stretch rubber tubing over each end, and then stretch one end over the faucet, and let the other end hang over the sink/tub drain. I prefer the immersion chiller to the ice bath, or just waiting around.
  
  
• I also don't know if you have what's called a brew bag, but it makes handling the grains easier. You put the bag in the bucket, then fill the bucket with your water, then pour the grains into the bag/bucket. Then when you are done, and want to take the grains out, you just lift out the bag, let it drain, you can squeeze the bag, or do whats call lautering where you pour water through it (you can put the bag in a large colander if you want to lauter), and voila. A lot easier than without the bag, and having to scoop all the grains out. This is the one I have, you can see what I was describing in the photos.
  
  
• Some people like to do what is called distilling "on grain", where they will pour the entire mash, with some grains or all the grains, into the distillation boiler. But if you aren't using a jacketed boiler, you run the risk of burning the grains, which adds an acrid taste and can ruin things. I don't do this, I use an immersion heater in my boiler, so I distill "off grain", as I use the brew bag and pull the grains out before doing into the boiler.
  
  
• For controlling the mashing temperatures, I use a Sous Vide cooker that I own for cooking, it can go between 32F and 210F. Tons of them on Amazon these days, and with a bit of aluminum door screen around the openings to keep the big grains out, benefit of the sous vide is it will heat and stir for you. If it's too expensive for you now, Amazon always has deals on them for Black Friday/Cyber Monday, or for Xmas. But you can just keep adding hot water and stirring periodically as the temp drops, I've done that before too. Or you can use a hot plate, which I have also done. I've never used the stove top (electric), or a gas burner, but I imagine it's possible to do with that as well, but probably a bit more difficult. Whatever floats your boat, and works for you.
  
  ===
  
  Hope this helps!

I honestly don't have any resources, mostly because PEX is so damn simple that there's really nothing to it. You just need a PEX tubing cutter (for making perfect cuts and not having to clean them up) and a PEX ring tool - I prefer the "cinch" (aka "pinch clamp") style, because the rings can be removed easily if you mess up and need to re-do a connection, and because you don't need to mess with checking each of your connections with a gauge to make sure it was clamped tight enough - you just squeeze the tool together until it unlatches and you're done. Here is a kit with both the tools you need and a handful of the rings.

Then, you'll just need a ton more rings (I use these 3/4" and these 1/2" ones, get WAY more than you think you'll need just in case); you'll need the PEX tubing, get that at the hardware store because it costs a little less than Amazon and they sell the straight pieces which are easier to work with if you are doing short runs (under 5 to 10 feet); and you'll need the appropriate fittings. The fittings are super simple to understand, just grab what you think you'll need and then grab a few more extras (remember you can just remove the cinch clamp and re-use the fittings as much as you want); I recommend getting the plastic fittings when you are getting started because they are much cheaper and they have a built-in "spacer" that helps you position the cinch ring exactly where it goes. Honestly I don't re-use the plastic ones - I just toss them as they are so cheap - but the brass fittings are easy to reuse (but they do cost more). Get some PEX hangers to hold the tubing up securely, I use these ones (just pick the size you need).

To make a PEX connection, you just use your cutting tool (which cuts like butter, it's shockingly easy to cut) to make a straight cut; put a ring over the tube, then push the fitting into the tube as far as it will go. Slide the ring so it's 1/8 to 1/4" from the end of the tube (or, right up to the "spacer" on plastic fitting), then open your cinch tool, put the jaws over the "ear" that sticks out of the ring, and squeeze together until the ratcheting mechanism unlocks, which means the ring is done. It helps to have someone hold the fitting for you while you position the ring and squeeze the tool, especially on 3/4", until you get the hang of it.

If you have any questions you can DM me. Here is a picture of my completed Viega Manabloc setup, which has 3/4" PEX coming in the top from the cold water supply and hot water heater, and then has individual valves for 1/2" PEX runs that go directly to each of the fixtures in the house. By doing it this way, I used a LOT more PEX tubing, but have far LESS fittings so it went quick and gives me a lot of flexibility - now, I can turn individual fixtures off and on from the manifold. Very happy with the setup.

Update: So I've been extensively testing my DIY Balsa wood MFLB- and below listed are my observations

1. While using freshly charged 2800 mAh Nimh rechargeable batteries, the mesh gets hot quite quick. If i look closely at the herb under the plexiglass- I can see vapor form within 10-15 seconds of engaging the battery.
   
   
2. If i use the Advanced method outlined in the MFLB flight guide, which is- Sip- sip-sip-sip and then a longish slow drag (in native mode- without any sort of stem)- My lips really do feel the heat- and I have burnt my lips (in a minor way though) quite a few times. - With this method I have been able to achieve some visible vapor on exhale and the hit feels real good and extremely flavorfull. A successful hit like this needs the battery to be engaged for at least 50+ seconds (almost a minute)- The battery get quite hot to the touch
   
   
3. Soon the battery looses power and I typically need two batteries to bring about 0.2 grams of herb to an even brown with a toasted smell.
   
   My conclusion so far:
   
   I think the mechanical bond between the mesh and the copper wires isn't ideal- as a result there's a lot of wasted power as the battery heats up- making this whole setup quite inefficient
   
   Which leads me to the following questions:
   
   
4. Should I be using Copper clad Steel rods instead of solid copper rods
   I saw someone suggest these
   https://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-506-26CPK2-Pipe-Hanger/dp/B000H5YCMK/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1478582466&sr=8-25&keywords=copper+pipe+hook
   Will this make a significant difference?
   
   
5. I've seen people suggest Lead free Silver Solder to bond the conducting rods and the SS mesh- Will this make a significant difference? If yes- will this solder do?
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HA7XLP6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AG2F6V09PFCTQ
   
   
6. While soldering the conducting rods with the SS mesh- will i need to use Flux? If yes- what kind of flux will I need to use - (I'd much appreciate it if someone could link me up to an amazon.com product here)
   
   Thanks in advance fellow ents! :)

I appreciate the reply. I have the chuck off. Pretty easy now that I know what I'm doing :) I see that for the most part, b12 does only go up to 10mm however I did find this Fein 63204028008 Quick Action Chuck 1/2-Inch Capacity with B12 Fitting online. Fein is a good name so I may keep an eye out for one or something similar.

My chuck must be older (original) because it goes 0.5mm up to only 8mm, not 10mm. Not sure that the extra 2mm really matters since most everything comes in 1/4" quick-change hex these days (1/4" = 6.35mm). Anything precision (wire gauge bits) that I do is going to be small for the most part. Only reason why I was interested in a 3/8" or 1/2" chuck is because I still have a couple old bit indexes with straight (not tapered) shaft/shanks. I understand torque... I wouldn't need 1/2" often and would either be going into wood (easy) or if metal I'd go very slow, keep it cool and use cutting oil. Thanks again. This has been a big help.

EDIT: One more question, You said: "Spindle:b12 ->tool shank b12 -> taper or thread to the chuck." Do you mean that b12 can also come threaded, or that a threaded chuck can also press onto a b12 tapered shaft? I thought it was one or the other?

> How are you going to mount that to the ceiling?

My bad. Not shown in the picture is a 4 way cross connector. This "4 way" cross is in the attic and at the very top of the chandelier piping. All of the chandelier wires come out of the top of this "4 way" cross. On each side of the cross are two, 48 inch 3/4" pipes. Both these pipes run perpendicular to the main supply pipe in my original picture. Furthermore, each of these pipes run through a 1" whole in adjacent rafter beams. So all-in-all there is a large "T" at the top of the chandelier. Through the top of the "T" the wires extrude from the chandelier, and each of the sides of the "T" support the weight of the chandelier, as they are run through the rafter beams. The entire chandelier is incredibly strong. I could literally hang from the chandelier and it would easily carry my weight.

> More importantly, are you just going to stick a bunch of 18 awg or 16 awg wire through a hole in the hot attic in a box and do the connection there?

Yes the plan is to run the wire through the top of the pipe and a foot or two to the terminal enclosure box. My main concern is that foot or two where the wire is exposed. In that span, the 8 ground, 8 18awg white wire, and 8 18 awg black wire will be exposed. Sound like I need to extend my 3/4" pipe directly to the terminal box? And if so, is it ok to just drill a KO whole through my terminal box and feed the iron pipe directly to it?

The attic is part of the conditioned house space. It's not incredible hot.

A few more things:


Camco 40043 TastePURE RV/Marine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Camco RV Brass Inline Water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD08U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These are fun but not a requirement:

MPOWERD Luci Solar String Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KYPDPKC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

MPOWERD 1004-005-001-002 Luci Lux... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076JSCMPG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Again not a necessity but I like it, keeps your water house pointed down not out

The Everything Candida Diet Book:... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD03K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Love this because depending on where you are, it’s really nice to have an extra water source for washing things and keeping dust down on the road

2wayz All Metal Body Garden Hose Splitter. Newly Upgraded (2017): 100% Secured, Bolted & Threaded. Easy Grip, Smooth Long Handles y Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MS0HK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fOhxDb2J6NVSQ

I have the enclosed one, and it is definitely pretty ping-y out of the box (I noticed it even with tactile switches). It's pretty easy to fix, though, by gluing some dense foam rubber to the inside of the bottom. Worked like a charm, and added some nice heft to the board (though the enclosed steel case is definitely heavy enough on its own).

Though I did buy mine before they were making the aluminum ones... if I was going to do it again I would probably go with one of those.

While I couldn't find anything for $0.18, here are some of my cheapest finds:

• 90-Degree Elbow of PVC Pipe Fitting (3/4" Slip) - $0.43 + Free Prime Shipping
  
  
• Elmer's Glue (4oz Bottle) - $0.50 + Free Prime Shipping
  
  
• Roller Chain Connecting Link (8 mm Pitch) - $0.54 + Free Prime Shipping
  
  
• Makeup Blender Sponge - $0.79 + Free Shipping
  
  
• Skull Mask Bandana - $0.86 + Free Shipping

I once owned an Equator brand countertop dishwasher, like this one, but an older version: http://equatorappliances.com/product-detail.php?product=equator-midea-cd-400-3203-w-dishwasher--countertop-6-place-setting-in-white-17-94&category_id=13

I was able to order an adapter kit with it, that allowed me to hook the input up to the sink faucet with a quick release attachment, and the drain line, I simply left in the sink when using the machine, to allow the dirty water to flow down the sink drain.

I do not quickly find an "all-in-one" kit, such I once purchased, but you can buy the parts individually. This attaches to the sink faucet:
https://www.amazon.com/Danco-36108E-Portable-Dishwasher-Aerator/dp/B005792KTS/ref=pd_sbs_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005792KTS&pd_rd_r=BAX5YPZZH8CR53EKTJFK&pd_rd_w=5dxkh&pd_rd_wg=dj7OV&psc=1&refRID=BAX5YPZZH8CR53EKTJFK

This attaches to the dishwasher's water input hose: https://www.amazon.com/Dishwasher-Coupling-Thread-Nipple-Female/dp/B007DMYQBW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1500924894&sr=8-8&keywords=dishwasher+faucet+adapter+kit

You hold the hose and push down on the white plastic flange to connect or release the hose from the skinny nipple fitting on the faucet. You can really make any dishwasher portable this way. I have done the same as well with a standard full-sized dishwasher, by building a plywood box on casters to hold it, and plumbing it this way.

If you do purchase any "countertop" or "mobile/portable" dishwasher, consider the size of your dinner plates first. I found that any plates larger in diameter than 10 inches/25.4 centimeters would not fit in this type of dishwasher.

Your experience may vary, but I hope this is of some assistance. Best of luck.

Without tools, the best you can really do is look for oiliness on the pipe. When you find a joint that feels oily (look for dark colours on the pipe, usually covered in very fine dust. Once you rub the dusty area with your fingers you'll feel the oiliness), spray/pour a small amount of washing up liquid over it and look for bubbles. If there's any refrigerant left in the system, you'll usually see bubbles appear (or over a longer period, foam). Of course if the gas has all escaped already - and we're only talking a couple of hundred grams here - then you won't see any bubbles.

Most domestic gear has no access fitting at all so even locating the leak can be difficult if there's no visual indication. You need to get pressure in there so you can leak test - this means adding a bullet piercing valve (like this).

Then you need to put something in via your bullet piercing valve to raise the system pressure. It's best to use dry nitrogen to leak test to save wasting refrigerant, but since you most likely don't have that on hand you could buy yourself some refrigerant (most likely R134a) and pressurise with that. That's a big no-no here (both disposable cylinders and dumping gas to atmosphere by charging a system with a known leak) but I'm guessing your in the US, and those sorts of laws seem remarkably lax so go for gold. It's not like you'll be ruining MY ozone layer too, right? ;)

You also need to regulate the pressure going in to the system. This is where you need gauges. Connect the yellow line to your bottle, connect the blue line loosely to your bullet piercing valve, purge from cylinder to piercing valve by opening the cylinder tap + gauges tap, and releasing some pressure via the loose fitting, then tighten the fitting and close your gauges tap. Open the bullet piercing valve. Open the gauges tap slowly and give it ~50psi of system pressure.

Then you can go for gold with your soap, or you can lash out and grab yourself some "proper" leak detection fluid (like this), or better yet an electronic leak detector (like this one).

Once you've found your leak, you want to release your nitrogen (or reclaim your refrigerant using a reclaim plant and a spare cylinder), then repair it using an oxy/acetalyne set, or since it's only tiny pipework you can get away with a MAPP gas set.

If it's a copper->copper joint, you're laughing - polish the pipework up with emery cloth, heat the pipe until it's just this side of glowing red, and feed the joint with brown tip silver solder.

If it's a copper->steel joint, then it's a bit more of a pain. You need blue tip silver solder and flux. Clean your joint with the emery cloth, give it a nice coating of flux on every surface you need solder to stick to, then heat it up until it's a fair way short of glowing red. Feed the blue tip solder in and STOP. Unlike brown tip (15% silver) you can't just keep feeding blue tip (45% silver) as it ruins the weld.

Now, since you put on a bullet piercing valve and they leak like a sieve in the long term, we need to replace that with a schrader access valve. Since it's most likely going to be in a straight through piece of pipe, you can save time and grab yourself a pre made access valve in 1/4" pipe. Cut away the hole left by the bullet piercing valve, polish the copper and cut the pipework with a ~10mm gap using a tube cutter. Then slip your access fitting assembly in there, and follow the copper->copper joint procedure.

Of course, now that we've done all that you need to change the liquid line filter drier too. I'd recommend a 1/4" solder in core drier in place of the original copper spun drier because... well, copper spun driers are terrible. Follow the pipe cutting procedure from the piercing valve instructions and the soldering instructions from the copper->copper joint instructions and that's done too. Remember - always try and mount the drier so it's outlet is LOWER than its inlet. This turns the drier into a small liquid receiver and helps ensure a good liquid seal over the capillary tube. Speaking of capillary tubes, if it was inserted straight into the original copper spun drier CUT the capillary, don't try and unsweat it. The chances of blocking it up are about 82.5634% (approximately) when you unsweat capillarys. You're much better off chopping it with a set of capillary tube cutters and ensuring a good clean capillary. The ~30mm of wasted capillary will affect performance, but almost certainly not to any sort of measurable degree.

Then give the system a good evacuation using a vacuum pump and ensure it reaches a good vacuum (sub-500 micron) with a digital vacuum gauge.

Then using a set of electronic scales, charge your freshly evacuated system (remembering to purge!) to the charge recommended by the manufacturer.

Voila! You have just fixed your chest freezer.

..... Alternatively, pay someone to do it for you and/or recycle the components and buy yourself a new one.

If you really, really want to do this, make sure you use an alcohol and food safe container. Some plastics will dissolve when exposed to the alcohol. For example, PET and PP are good choices. (There are others)

It's also important to make sure the valves are made of similarly safe materials, including any lubricants and plastics or rubbers used for seals.

The tank you linked in the post, and the valve they recommend with it, appear to be ok. Check any other tubing, adapters, nozzles, etc. that you use as well. Alcohol-safe, food-grade parts do exist for everything you want this to do, but not all parts that fit will be safe.

Whether or not something is alcohol-safe will not tell you if it is food grade. Many alcohol-safe parts are manufactured using lubricants and adhesives that are not safe for consumption, and may be on the inside of any of your valves, tubes, or tanks. You should treat them as separate requirements.

Note that your tank and valve are both listed as food-safe, and made of alcohol-resistant materials.

(P.S. I am not a chemical safety expert. My confirmations should not be seen as confirmation by a qualified professional.)

sure. which parts do you need more detail on?

so take an SCR controller. this one is nice as it has the digital display. that saves you with the bother of an ammeter or voltmeter. this will leave you with a dial control for increasing or decreasing power to your unit.

220 from your wall goes into the SCR. if you want it cheap get the power cord off of a craigslist (etc) free stove or dryer.

power out goes to your hot water tank element. they say that ultra low watt density is best. but low watt fold back ones are usually fine too.

your element screws into one of these . they are available from a number of suppliers.

to prepare the keggle, simply remove the spear, and then cut what is normally the bottom of the keg off (its quietest if you do this with the keg full. you might be able to find a disk to seal the ferrule up with, or even fill with water and then reinstall the spear, and do it upside down) now the sanke flange can be used as a 2" tri clamp ferrule. buy yourself a 2" TC clamp and gaskets

you'll need legs or a stand for the keggle. I'm sure you can figure that out.

now as that is you'll see that your hwt element sticks up the center of the keg from the bottom to about the middle of the keg. so. if you got yourself some 2" copper pipe - the same length as your element and hammer on an easy flange. for that basically you take a ballpeen hammer and work the ends down so that they are flat and 90° to the rest of the pipe. if that's a little thin for the TC clamp to attach to, you can put a hose clamp on it, and melt some solder in to beef it up. file it to shape and for smoothness. even better is if you can add a tee with at least a 1/2" but maybe as much as a 1" connection and then you get a bottom drain as well.

The living room fins can be bent back straight again but the baseboard cover is missing supports that hold the element up. I was doing it one by one with the pliers but there must be a easier way of doing it. I am wondering if it just worth it to remove the old covers and install new covers and element supports for the existing living room radiator element. It may also solve that creaking i hear from the element getting warm when the zone kicks on.

The kitchen is a different story. That one the fins have completely detached from half the length of the copper pipe and are free floating there. I am thinking about renting a grinder with a metal blade and just cutting off the remaining fins. Then I can install this: https://www.amazon.com/FABTEK-CLR-2-Hydronic-Baseboard-Additional/dp/B00GHUSRSY

​

That sounds like a pretty big canner that could probably support up to a 2" column. I'm assuming it's ss. There are many types and sizes of fittings you could use to adapt depending on the still type you want. Just to give you some ideas here's some fitting types you could use if you're thinking about either a column or a pot still: female npt lid adapter, male to male nipple - you can also find these in copper, female npt to copper tubing adapter, male npt to copper tubing adapter. Here's a plug. To sum up, figure out which type of still you want to build then use those types of fittings to get you started. That's just my two cents. Good luck!

I have the same speakers. The cable looks to be about RG59. Your cable should say how many ohm's - that way we can confirm we have the same.

This is the what you need, but in 10 pack form. http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-9720-Compression-Connectors/dp/B0037HPSU0
This connector is quad though, preferable to have non-quad.

IMO, your best bet is to return the compression tool and use the solder connector. The connector you bought is made as a universal fit so should be OK. If you can't solder, find an electronic repair shop or even a computer shop. It's about 40 seconds of solder work, should be cheap.

If you are using thick wood for the top then you really shouldn't need to do the cross beams. Wood glue is actually stronger than wood, so you'd be more likely to break the wood along the middle of the board than along the joint. The one thing you want to be sure to do is flatten the edges of the board so that you have the best seam you can before glue up. Ideally you will barely even see it - no gap whatsoever. You should be able to just grab [threaded pipe flanges] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQGEOZD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_idsaAb3KZ779Swith). Just get your pipes threaded at a box store. That way you can actually remove them with ease if you so choose.

Honestly I feel like you'd be fine with even 1" thick wood and the above. The cross beams would only allow you to use longer screws. If you did want that then you could just cut a circular puck the shape of the flange and glue that where the legs will go, then screw into the now thicker sections. At the end of the day It's gonna depend on how "reclaimed" the wood is structurally.

Takes a bit to get the hang of it, but these work like a charm. https://www.amazon.com/LDR-511-1110-11-Inch-Faucet/dp/B000I19AJI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474827213&sr=8-1&keywords=faucet+wrench

Other answers are correct. Cheaper options on Amazon esp if you have prime

http://www.amazon.com/LDR-511-1110-11-Inch-Faucet/dp/B000I19AJI/

they make a tool just for that

faucet / basin / sink wrench:

https://www.amazon.com/LDR-511-1110-11-Inch-Faucet/dp/B000I19AJI

this to this to this
of course you could just buy this