#6 in USB hubs
Reddit mentions of AmazonBasics 4-Port USB to USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub Adapter
Sentiment score: 23
Reddit mentions: 68
We found 68 Reddit mentions of AmazonBasics 4-Port USB to USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub Adapter. Here are the top ones.
Buying options
View on Amazon.comor
- USB 2.0 high-speed interface, supports data rates of 1.5/12/480 Mbps
- Backwards compatible with USB 1.1
- Automatic connection and speed detection
- Plug-and-Play; hot-plugging; driver free
- Over-current detection and protection
- Max output is 2.5W(5V/500MA) across all 4 ports
- Check your device loading current when used for charging (e.g. iPads/Tablets) or for high-power devices (e.g. hard drive); insufficient current may lead to slow charging or other failure.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 0.68 Inches |
Length | 2.48 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1-Pack |
Weight | 0.09875 Pounds |
Width | 1.92 Inches |
I have always wanted to have a "smart" radio. My parents have always owned various Pioneer, Kenwood, and Sony radio decks, but they always had their cons to them (clunky OS, different type of touch screens that suck, lack of features, very expensive $800-$2000), useless features, etc.). I wanted something that runs Android 6.0+. I thought about using iPads, but I didn't want to waste a bunch of money for something that is going to be used in my car only. I wanted a budget friendly "smart" radio. That is when I found the perfect tablet, the Nexus 7 2013. Cheap, powerful, Android 6, compact, somewhat thin and small, and best part, it fits in a double-din radio deck.
After finding various projects that people have used, I decided to order a bunch of stuff from Amazon (everything was bought with Prime) and see if I could get this to work. It took about 3 weeks to work out all the bugs, but it runs perfect now. I never found anyone that did this mod in a Nissan Pathfinder, so that was difficult going on my own, reading various wiring diagrams and getting power, sound and steering wheel controls to work. After lots of testing each wire, and lots of trial and errors, everything is working how I want it too.
Questions that people have asked me that I can remember on the top of my head:
Q: How do you turn the tablet on and off if the power button is blocked?
A: Easy, with Timur's Kernel, and the USB car charger hooked up to the accessory power, when I turn my key on/start my car, the tablet detects power from the USB, which wakes the screen/powers on. (ELI5: there are 2 power sources in your radio, a constant 12 volt power, and an accessory key power. So when you turn the key to ACC or ON, it gives power to the tablet, but when you turn the key off, it takes away power from the USB port.)
Q: How does it hold up in the wonderful California heat?
A: Shockingly very well. It hasn't given me any issues in ~95F (+35C) degree weather. There was a day where it was 115F (46C) degrees outside, and that is when the tablet finally said NOPE and started locking up and freezing due to the ridiculous heat. After running my AC for a few minutes, it cooled the tablet down to reasonable temperature and ran normally again. When my car is parked, I have a windshield sun shade that helps a ton with keeping the sun off my black/gray dash, and/or microfiber towels over the screen to keep the sun off. If it's super hot, I just take the tablet/radio/air conditioner part out of my car and bring it inside (not that hard to remove).
Q: How do you control the volume?
A: With the JoyCon EXC, it translates either CAN, IBUS, resistive, or digital steering wheel control signals, to USB keyboard signals that the tablet can see. I have the Joycon setup to have Volume UP/DOWN, Screen ON/OFF, PAUSE/PLAY, and PREVIOUS/NEXT. Click here for more information.
Q: How do you listen to the radio/music?
A: Spotify Premium. While I can spend ~$10 on a radio antenna to USB to listen to over-the-air radio stations, I never listen to the radio. When I had my old stock radio, I never listened to the radio part. I always used my 3.5mm jack to plug in my phone for Spotify. Great perk about being a broke college student is getting 50% off Spotify Premium.
Q: Can you/do you watch TV or movies on it while you drive?
A: I can, but I don't. Pay attention to the freakin' road.
Q: How do you get internet on it since it's a WiFi version?
A: I use my Bluetooth hotspot on my phone to get internet for Waze, Google Maps, etc. I can also use the WiFi hotspot, but that uses more power. I can drive from California to Idaho running Waze the whole way and it uses about ~300MB of data.
Q: Can you make phone calls with it?
A: This has been something I have been trying, but have not had success with yet. I use an app called [TabletTalk] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apdroid.tabtalk&hl=en), but it doesn't push the microphone/sound through the tablet. I gave up on this since I have a Samsung Gear 2 Neo smartwatch that has a microphone/speaker on it. Some day I will explore with this more.
Q: How do you power your speakers if you removed the radio?
A: I lucked out big time with this issue because my Nissan Pathfinder has the Bose System built in. That means that there's an amplifier already installed that powers the speakers. So the tablet sends the sound to the Behringer UCA202 DAC, that then converts to a 3.5mm headphone jack that then splits into the Left Front/Rear, Right Front/Rear, and dual subwoofer channels that go to the car wiring harness that then goes to the amp. This saves me hundreds of dollars. For vehicles without a stock amplifier that rely on the radio for power, that is when you will need to buy an amplifier to power the speakers. My 12 inch subwoofer also plugs into the DAC and works perfectly.
Q: I see the reverse camera, how did you get that to work with the tablet? How does the tablet know when you are in reverse?
A: There were 2 ways to get this to work, one way is by video detection, or the other way is by the JoyCon EXC. I chose to do the video detection way because it was simpler and waiting about one second for the app to open was fine with me. I use an app called EasyCap viewer.
Q: Why is there paper over the JoyCon, EasyCap, USB charger etc.?
A: The plastic pieces over the EasyCap and USB charger were bulky/broken. The JoyCon didn't come with a cover. Paper was the easiest/closest thing I had at the moment. If only I had a 3D printer. Someday..
Q: Why is the mic in the vent and not somewhere else? Doesn't the wind from the HVAC cause problems?
A: It was a last-second add-on and just put it in there without having to rewire the harness. I also didn't know where to move it that made it look "stock". I've gotten some great opinions on where to move it! Thanks for those!
I'll add more common questions here when I think of them.
Breakdown of Parts:
Price | Part
---|---
$100 | Nexus 7 2013 32GB WiFi (flo) (bought from /r/hardwareswap)
$5 | Nissan Radio Wiring Harness
$6 | AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub
$20 | Esky EC135-05 Rearview Camera
$95 | JoyCon EXC
$7 | Tendak OTG USB cable
$30 | Behringer UCA202
$7 | VideoSecu Amplified CCTV Microphone
$25 | Timur's Kernel v4.0 for Nexus 7 2013
$10 | Maxboost Car Charger
Free/Other/Already owned | EasyCap USB Video Capture Card, RCA cables, 3.5mm audio cables, USB cables, 12-16 AWG wire, grinder, zipties, paper, hotglue, other random stuff.
TOTAL COST | ~$305
TL;DR: Modified my Android tablet to work as a replacement for my radio. Worth it? YES. Best Radio Ever.
Have Questions? Ask away. Since I had to learn most this crap on my own, I can share my experience with others and give pointers in the right direction.
EDIT #1: Formatting.
EDIT #2: RIP my inbox. I would never have guessed this would get this popular. I'm just speechless. Wow. Thanks everyone! Trying my best to reply to everyone! Also added another question to this.
If anyone has questions about the install shoot me a message and I'll gladly help!
Here's a short video http://youtu.be/ccwPxygGydE
Parts List
Double Din Bezel- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CSVAEVE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB Car Charger - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RBSXJO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB OTG- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EB70PXA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB Hub- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB Wire- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TH7GUU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Right Angle Stereo Jack- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008SFSIXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bluetooth ODB Reader- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008U1MOM8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Diagram
http://i.imgur.com/LAqK0Ti.jpg
Ok, Everyone. I am going to try answer all of your questions at once.
> Can you make me one? I'll pay you!
No, Sorry. I am unable to make these for you, I just don't have the time.
> What software did you use?
I used RetroPie and Emulation Station found in one package found here. It was super easy, going in I had no idea what I was doing. Google and Youtube are your friends. Also /u/kristopher_m7 helped me figure some of it out.
> How much did it cost?
About 80$ plus the broken NES
> What hardware did you use?
Shutdown Circuit
USB Hub
Controllers I used 2
> Where did you get the ROMs?
CoolROM
> Was it hard?
No, not at all. It was frustrating at times, but fun and educational. But seriously, Google is your friend. I would recommend it to anyone that has some computer experience.
I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.
My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.
*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**
I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.
Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.
I recommend the drive with a y-cable. That way the hard drive powers up and down with the console. With an externally powered drive, you have to either leave it on all the time (will lead to early hard drive failure) or you have to plug it in every time you use your Wii U (which is a major pain).
Just get a cheap usb hub to plug into one of the front USB ports so you can still plug in all your accessories. Here's an Amazon Basics one for $7 that turns one port into 4 so you have 5 in the front:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536252759&sr=1-7&keywords=usb+hub
Also, if you happen to have an old laptop that is dead or not used anymore, you can remove the hard drive from it and put it in a <$10 external enclosure and use it like a portable hard drive. I did this and it's been going strong for almost 4 years. Here's the external enclosure I used (includes a y cable):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E362W9O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Why have a dedicated, single-purpose connector type (PS/2) when you can have a Universal connector type (USB)? More general is more better and Universal is the pinnacle of generality.
Furthermore USB is externally expandable (example) if that's what you want/need.
Ok so this is the amazon hub I have
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407942392&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=amazon+basic+usb+hub
Apple decided to put a software power limit to the USB CCK (Camera Connection Kit) a few years ago. The hardware is capable of outputting 100ma, but Apple limited it to 20ma. The trick works by making it think that there are 4 ports instead of one, meaning the iPad gives the hub 80ma, and then the hub can give 80ma to the usb stick. I believe that is how it works anyway.
Might I ask where you will be getting the usb sticks from? Will they be given to you (in lectures or from friends etc), or is it so you can plug in a usb stick back and forth from a computer? The reason I ask, is if it is for your use, I have found that the SD card CCK is much better for this. The SD card reader has no power limit, so no hub is required and it works for any card (formatted in FAT32/HFS+) - so 128gb cards work, and most likely 256gb cards when they become reasonably priced :P. Its a lot less messy (only one cable sticking out), and for the times when I want to plug it into a computer with no SD card slot, I can use a USB 3 to SD card reader;
Something like this (I'm in the UK so not sure of the best US equivalents)
http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Information-Card-Reader-TS-RDF5K/dp/B009D79VH4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407942666&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+3+sd+card+reader
In terms of speed its the same as USB 2, and when it comes to mounting them in iFile its exactly the same as USB CCK. And I think the same price for the SD kit over USB and SD card prices are the same as USB sticks too.
Let me know whether that sounds better or if you still require USB. It really just depends on how often you are going to be doing it, I certainly wouldn't want to take out the hub in the middle of lecture or something - would kind of defeat the purpose of the mini :P.
Sounds like you're looking for a USB hub.
Wether the one you need would be externally powered or BUS powered depends on how much power the devices you are using require.
Something simple like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_L8zWub07C837M
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_L8zWub07C837M
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B9996LA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Works great! Only thing I wish it has was a backlight. You can use the media buttons and touchpad. Just familiarize yourself with the keyboard controls. Very long lasting rechargeable battery. Works out of the box.
Edit - It also works fine with Ouya apps when you need to type text. Pick up one of these USB hubs if you don't have one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I had this issue with my Modi and emailed Schiit about it a while ago. What they told me was that there really is no foolproof way to fix the port power management problem in Windows 8. The easiest/cheapest way they recommended to fix it was to get a USB hub. And it doesn't have to be powered! I got one and I haven't had a single issue with it since.
What I have is basically this here. That's all you have to spend
Any usb hub should work, and it doesn't need to be powered. I use this one to hook up four f310s to my Ouya:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK
Items used:
Battery SAE Connector $6
SEA connection that has 4 plugs. If I need to hook up a battery charger or air compressor it's nice.
USB Power $10 I used one for the phone itself and one for the hub, however you only need one. I just didnt not want the amplifier taking power away from charging the phone. Redundancy is nice too. Extra USB ports for whatever.
USB Hub $7 For all the gadgets.
USB Phone Power Cable $5 This is the real weak point in the setup. I've gone through a lot of these. monoprice.com is good for really cheap cords.
[Phone Audio output(between phone and amplifier)] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9KUF7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
$7 Quality cord here. Purchased for the right angle plug.
[Amplifier]( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HJWWW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 $28
Amplifier output connection: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGU7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) $30 After not being able to hear very well with no amplifier, this greatly improved the experience.
Helmet coil cord $5 With this cord you never know the cord is there until you get off the bike and it will break away.
Helmet speakers: $10 I found a great deal on ebay for some "hoodie" speakers and I epoxied them in the helmet. You could always use this setup with earbuds too, but I was never fond of getting them pulled out while riding.
Phone mount $35 I would trust it will an $800 phone.
Total Cost w/ Phone Mount: $ 115
You know if you hit the share button, you can copy the short link?
https://amzn.com/B001D1UTC4
https://amzn.com/B00006HSM2
https://amzn.com/B003M0NURK
(ok, I'll shut up now)
I honestly would invest in one that does the chat via USB but also has the red/white audio hookups for the game volume as well because talking on the mic with your tv blaring sucks donkey dick.
I kind of hate turtle beach because the headset I bought from them for my PC broke and was replaced 3 times in 10 months... fucking plastic headband shit but the headset I found for PS3 by them is alright and one of the cheapest that will play game volume that I found.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008M4BNQG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I am sure they have similar ones for 360 as well.
Also I would suggest investing in a cheap USB hub
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That way you can have the headset plugged in, a controller charging, and a wireless keyboard or something hooked up for typing messages if ya need to :p
Great post OP, thank you very much. I started progress on my magic mirror following these instructions and wanted to post my experience so far.
Already had:
Things I needed to purchase:
Issues Encountered:
$url = 'YOUR_URL'
I will probably be removing the news and compliments because I am using a smaller screen and want to leave more open space.
I also am looking for a solution to showing events from multiple calendars. I keep my google calendars separated by type, like bills, appointments, etc. These are kept on separate calendars so I can filter which is viewed. But I'd like to consolidate this data on the mirror, or rotate between calendars. May modify the source myself if nothing already exists.
But to get everything running on the pi took about 2hrs including resolving my issues. Building the frame will probably take longer as my wood working skills are pretty sub par.
Here we go! I got this one! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Correction, it has 3 USB ports. (And a hub, such as this one work great.)
Also, in my case, with the router being on the other side of the house, I used a couple of these to get it hooked up through the CAT5 (or Ethernet) port.
I've had no problems since.
I'd say your best bet would the Lenovo U430 for school.
It has an i7-4500U w/ Intel HD 4400 Graphics, 4GB RAM, 500GB Hybrid SSD, and a 1600x900 14" touch display.
It weighs only 4.2lbs and can get up to 7.5 hours of battery life.
The only issue with it for you would be the lower amount of RAM (but you can always upgrade that later), and it has 3 USB ports rather than 4. You can always get a hub for that, though.
I suggest this one primarily due to the low weight and good battery life for being able to use during classes.
I'm confused as to what you mean. I've never seen a usb split to just two female ends. Either I don't see why it wouldn't work, but if you're short on USB slots (laptops, generally have this issue), maybe go for a usb hub?
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453475612&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=usb+hub
That looks pretty decent, could probably pull a smaller USB hub (AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QBGpybQPBST99) and pick him up an additional item.
If not, those three still look pretty good and would be applicable to a wide range of projects.
Yes that's right. Make sure your using the 2.5amp power supply that comes with it, or higher drawing that much power it could cause slowdown issues.
There is this for example on amazon https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492717886&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=amazon+basics+usb+hub
that won't draw much, but depending on what your doing you might want to invest in a USB hub that has it's own power supply. Always a better choice
Buy a 4 port KVM like this one, attach a 4 port USB hub to the input, and then attach your 3 USB devices to the hub. You might need to buy a powered hub instead.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK
We've had this issue for a few years on all of our models where we use a USB to Ethernet adapter for imaging (Yoga, Yoga 12, Yoga 260, Yoga 370 and Dell 7390 2-in-1). We've been connecting the USB to Ethernet adapter to a cheap USB 2.0 hub and plugging that into the laptop USB port as a workaround and this always works for us. Slows things down a bit, but at least it works. Here is the USB hub that we use: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522295670&sr=8-3&keywords=amazon+basics+usb+2.0+hub&dpID=418ZqgcqNCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpsrc=srch.
&#x200B;
I also recently ran across this, but haven't verified if it is also a workaround in our environment: https://www.dell.com/support/article/gy/en/gybsdt1/sln308790/sccm-task-sequence-workaround-for-domain-join-failures-on-certain-skylake-kaby-lake-systems?lang=en
Solar Charger 30,000mAh, LMS Portable Dual USB Solar Battery Charger Battery Pack Phone Charger Power Bank with Flashlight for Smartphones Cell Phones Iphones Android Samsung Galaxy Tablet Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JR85LJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2KI0AbS6T4DDJ
This one has a massive battery and if youre instinct (dont worry, I wont judge) it comes in yellow.
If you use more then one device or play with other people a USB hub is also a good idea to charge more then one device. AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KMI0AbQ88P4MD
Yes, or more than two. I've had 8 hooked up before. The Pi Zero's are a little picky about which USB Hubs will work. If you have some around you can try them to see if they work, otherwise I recommend getting this specific Amazon Basics Hub or a hub sold from a reputable dealer (like Adafruit) that is specifically advertised as working with Pi Zero's.
I've had no problems using this usb hub (no power supply):
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405826098&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=amazon+usb+hub
50ft HDMI
50ft USB Cable
USB Hub
Have fun.
I don't think you even need a thunderbolt dock. Get two long DisplayPort cables (or 1 if your monitors can be daisy chained) and then a USB extension with a USB hub on the end. Plug your mouse and keyboard into the hub and plug any audio devices into your monitor. (I assume that they have audio, considering they are high end monitors)
Edit: Because I have nothing else to do, I looked into a single cable thunderbolt solution.
The idea came from this video, and it will be extremely expensive. Like is there really a good reason to not just move the PC by your monitors?
First, to use Thunderbolt, you need to actually have Thunderbolt on your computer. Luckily for you, ASUS has a PCI card to do just that. Your motherboard is not listed as supported, but your motherboard does have the Thunderbolt header that is needed by the card, and is a newer mobo from the same manufacturer, so there is a possibility it might work. Assuming it does, you would just connect the DisplayPort from your GTX 1080 to the Thunderbolt card.
The next thing you need is a long Thunderbolt cable. I don't know how far away the computer is going to be from the TB dock, but here is a 33' long Thunderbolt cable. If you need longer, you can get 100' for $600.
Next, you'll need the Thunderbolt dock. There are many out there. I have no experience with any of them Belkin and Elgato both make them.
An unfortunate thing about the Thunderbolt docks is that they only support dual display when one of the displays is a Thunderbolt display. Otherwise, you can only use one over HDMI or one over MiniDP to DP, but not both. So that would mean repeating the whole setup with 2 docks, or just going with the suggestion I made above.
I think he's talking about one of these: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK right OP?
I have one and I'll plug both external HDD tonight to see if it works. I know a hub + external HDD + mouse + 360 Controller + flirc dongle works...
This is the one I have:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK
It is USB 2.0.
Dear Younger Me,
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Also remember, never AND I MEAN NEVER stick your dick in crazy. It's not going to be different because you're such a good guy and the cosmos owes it to you. It's going to suck and be a huge bummer on your summer.
Here's an item, cool huh?
The Amazon product description says
> USB POWER ADAPTER has been updated to 2 AMP (2000 mA) -- Enough to power a USB keyboard, the included wifi adapter, and wireless mouse.
So I think you'll be OK. It depends on what type of setup you want though. Once you get everything programmed/installed, do you want to run the Pi "headless" (with no monitor or keyboard/mouse)? If so, you should be OK just using one USB port for the WiFi dongle and one for the mic. If you want to leave a keyboard/mouse hooked up all the time then you'd need a USB hub anyway since you'd be using 3 ports total (or 4, if you have a separate keyboard/mouse). You might be able to get away with a cheaper unpowered hub in that case but I'm not sure.
*edit - I think you'll be fine either way with speakers, independent of the USB setup. Small speakers that just plug directly into the 3.5mm jack won't draw much power (but they aren't as loud); nicer speakers that have their own external power supply won't be an issue.
Or alternatively, you could use the Pi Zero's OTG Ethernet Gadget capabilities to connect your Pi0 directly to a PC/Mac using only a single USB cable: https://gist.github.com/gbaman/975e2db164b3ca2b51ae11e45e8fd40a
A usb hub?
I had this issue with a Corsair K70, as well, had to get a powered USB hub. Fixed the issue immediately!
So im not sure what the usb problem could be other than some driver issies that will be resolved down the road. However i can assure you that i have used the follwing usb hub w/o providing the external power succesfully. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003M0NURK/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488001704&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+hub
fat32 i intentionally purchased a usb the reads/writes fast. well faster than i was finding at target.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7PDLXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and i use this usb splitter. cheap and works well
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use the Define R4. I bought my hub to connect to a usb extension cable so I could run a mouse and controller across the floor and game from my couch. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And, fwiw, it took me ages to figure out too. When I finally did, it was one of those head bashing "why wasn't that the first thing I checked!" moments.
The Asus Transformer Book T100TA is only 2.5 pounds and can run games like HL2 fine (that video was recorded with FRAPS, so your actual performance will be better). It has a detachable keyboard so that you can use the screen as a standalone tablet, and the battery lasts around 10 hours for normal use. Finally, it has MS Office preinstalled an 64GB SSD storage, which should read/write files and open programs quickly.
It doesn't have an optical drive, but as /u/SaneBRZ mentioned, you can buy one cheaply on Amazon. We also recommend a USB Hub so that you can use multiple devices at once if you want.
Please let us know if there are any questions we can answer for you.
Hello, Goodbye~. Wait, this isn't goodbye. Why would I say that? Anyway, I enter with this fan and this USB hub.
This is such an amazing idea! I've just ordered the parts from Amazon to do this and it only cost £17.47 in total.
5.25" Storage Box
USB Header to USB Female Adapter
USB 4 Port Hub Bus-powered
This USB hub? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK
You could use a passive (self powered) USB hub like this one from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vFjKzbWDR4NT8
Cut the Type A end off and connect that instead of what you have reattached. I used this USB hub in a Pi NES game cartridge and it worked very well. You can also de solder the female connectors on the board to get slimmer.
End game it's you'll need a USB chipset that can run a host/ device tree for your teensy since it isn't possible to do USB data over GPIO.
Edit: just in case this helps, this is how I used the hub in my case:
http://imgur.com/3tSmu25
A USB hub with a power cord that you plug into the wall. Some have them, some don't. The ones that don't are fine for mice and keyboards. But a portable hard drive gets all its power from the computer and an unpowered hub sometimes gives it problems, it will sometimes eject randomly, even while copying files, or not work at all.
This one is bus-powered.
This one has an AC adapter.
4-port for $6, free 2-day shipping
I got a non-powered one from Amazon. It's their Amazon Basics, it's decent enough. http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-4-Port-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1343047919&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=usb+hub
Have a mouse, keyboard and an external (self powered) hard drive in it. Seems to work just fine.
I'm using this, but if you plug in more than two accessories, make sure your power supply can handle it. Like 2.5 volts.
**edit- I didn't see "space constrained" so this may be of no help.
AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eIvvyb5KTCRRC
This is the one that the reviews have said work with the pi zero: AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i6ztybX6G3N7E
The one I'm using came from a local store in Canada so I don't think you'll be able to get one.
Glue this to the side of the case: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK
I'll give you some advice, if you really need more than two usb's, you can get one of these a lot cheaper than it would be for trying to buy a computer with a bunch of usb ports already attached.
[To answer your question more thoroughly, I personally love Toshiba's Satellite Brand,] (http://www.toshiba.com/us/computers/laptops/satellite) there high performance laptops are highquality and top of the line. I bought a C55-A5286 from them last year, and it came with a 750 gb hard drive and 16gb ram. Its more than effective at anything you'd need to use for debate. I even use this laptop to play counter strike with no problems at all.
I will disclose two things about the satellite that you may want to consider before buying 1. I had a keyboard failure within the 1st year but it was replaced with the Toshiba Warranty but I had to pay for Fedex shipping. I sent the laptop to them on a monday and I got it back on a friday. 2. The screen on my laptop was especially fragile. I broke the screen after inadvertently having my knee make contact with it while I was sitting down at a debate tournament. The laptop is currently hooked up to a PC Monitor and works just fine. I use a Dell Inspiron for my debate work, it has 4gb ram and 500 gb hard drive and it still does all the work relatively quickly.
If your laptop is slowing down I'd consider looking at what you might have cluttered on there before you lay down a big wad of money on a new laptop.
There is always the "docks" like Alesis, Behringer, Focusrite and others all have docks with midi IO, audio IO's and ability to charge at the same time. Honestly though, you could just get aUSB splitter and as long as your regular interfaces are class compliant you could use those and then charge it with another USB slot at the same time.
Hope this helps: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK
There are also bigger ones too.
Are they powered separately? (with their own power adapters?)
I'd go with the powered USB 3.0 hub Link
If they are portable drives, you'll need more power, something like this: Link or this Link
Hope that helps :)
AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7Olnzb86EQ7VC
With iPhone you need a lightning to USB adapter and something similar to this. Then just plug it in and you’re good to go!
Those all would just use a standard 1/8" audio cable. If you use the micca speakers with an amp you would need a 1/8" to RCA cable (but those are cheap) and some speaker wire.
It may be worth getting a usb hub if you have issues with not having enough ports. (A cheap one like this wouldn't work for charging devices but would open up more ports for mouse, keyboard, etc.)
is this good? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=zg_bs_17387627011_7?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=0SDQD441HD0CPFASN2EJ will that work?
whats diff between 2.0 and 3.0?
USB hubs are sometime an option. This one's cheap and tiny enough to hide.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=pd_sim_e_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=064BSGCQJW1WXMHH9857
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=2N6KM8OT5U978&amp;coliid=I30V9V9PBBZQGU&amp;psc=1
You won't need a powered hub. I created the same setup and was able to run 2 [Logitech F310] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VAHYQY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) using an [unpowered hub] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=psdc_3015402011_t3_B019BUA81U)
Hello! I hope you find these as cool as I do! I think it'd make any car look awesome!
And hmm, for me?! I'd love this! My computer only has two... :/
Oh! Vroom Vroom!!!
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=undefined&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+splitter+amazon+basic
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS22U/dp/B001D1UTC4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465833952&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=kvm&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A5060496011
+
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-26957-Female-Adapter/dp/B00006HSM2/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465834108&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=dvi+to+vga
+
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465834146&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+hum
=KVM switch with 5 switched USB ports by pressing 1 button that works with DVI monitor output.
The best arduino solution I can come up with will require you to wire up like 30 fets, and will probably not be more elegant than a commercial solution.
I'm running low on USB jacks. Can I get one of those USB jack multiplier things and plug all the controllers into it?
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407517282&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=multi-usb+port
I have a rpi zero and a non-powered USB hub.
Anything I plug into the mini USB port on the pi works, EXCEPT for the USB hub (popular amazon brand). The USB hub works everywhere else. The USB hub isn't a simple cable splitter, it's this one (AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf), if that makes a difference).
I have no idea what to do to fix it, as this makes it impossible to use my pi as an emulation station: I need two ports for it, and I can't download any drivers because even if it did have Internet I wouldn't have a free keyboard and mouse port to download them.
Does this make sense? Any guidance?
It is lighting up it's just covered by the case it's in.
The splitter
I wrote it to the microSD using Win32 Disk Imager.
Hello. Look at this previous post on USB controllers compatibility.
I also did some additional testing this morning for you. The amazon basic usb hub won't work with any of my controllers.
However, another Nexxtech usb hub I had did work.
I'll be happy to answer any further questions you have!