Reddit mentions: The best skateboard bearings

well, first I would get the best of the best.

despite what you may hear, if you get something good, and take care of it somewhat regularly, it WILL last you for many many years.

I buy Bones Swiss (usually $60 USD). and make sure to buy some Bones Bearings Speed Cream.

Now, for wheels it depends on where you like to ride, or how you like to ride. I usually just buy hard wheels (99 duro. Durometer is the hardness of a wheel. 99 and above is pretty damn firm) but you can always buy 97 or something. softer wheels are going to be good for all around skateboarding, but if you skate at the park, you are going to want hard wheels. you will feel a difference in the traction and also the speed at which you are going. But like I said, I ride 99Duro. The size of wheel is also important but I always suggest something between 54 and 52. If you want something that's going to last you longer just go with 53 and be done with it. It's a happy medium.

Brands? everyone has a brand of urethane they like to ride. I am riding some Spitfire 53mm classics. Most of my life I either skated Ricta or Powell.

Powell makes some good wheels to experiment with. They have an "All Terrain" formula of urethane that rides pretty decent as well as a "Park Wheel" that is suppose to ride better at plazas and (duh) parks.

However, I don't really see the difference personally in their formulas and I usually just get the ATF wheels up until a few years ago (I don't like to get stuck with one brand forever).

Now, with the speed cream, you're going to want to use it on your bearings maybe once every few months depending on how much you ride, but you will tell when your Bones Swiss bearings aren't spinning infinitely anymore when you aren't going the speed of light. You either need to clean your bearings with a Bearing Cleaning kit (here

Or, you can save yourself some money and DIY a cleaning kit (it's fun. that's what I did and it looks awesome. if you want I can show you how I made mine)

Either way, you MUST clean your bearings before you apply the speed cream, otherwise your bearings will just collect more debris and they will turn shitty.

I have a filmer board with bones swiss in the wheels that I have been riding for over five years and the spin like a dream and a new set I just put in my street deck that I look forward to using for many years to come.

Just look up how to clean your bearings on a youtube site and you're good to go

just remember NEVER. EVER USE WD 40. THAT SHIT IS BAD FOR YOUR BEARINGS AND IS NOT GOOD.

trust me.

>over $600 to start

If you want a cheaper version of the above, without having to buy all the Slacktivity equipment (I live in the USA, so importing all that comes out as quite pricey), you can do the following:

• Buy 2 cheap stainless shackles and approximately 20-30 feet of 1 inch tubular webbing (any type will do). Tie a frost knot (or an overhand on a bite with extra slack will do, as there is essentially 0 force on this ever) in one end of the webbing, and make your own soft release.
  
• 3 - 5 of these 1 inch pulleys off of amazon. Use a grinder/hacksaw/drill to grind off the metal nub on the end, and go to the hardware store to buy some locking nuts, washers, and a 1.75" bolt.
  
• Some skate bearings off of amazon (4 bearings per homemade webbing pulley). These go over the bolts, with washers in between, of the pulleys that you took apart to make a homemade set of these. Buy some cheap pear carabiners to go with them. You have now made your own highslides/cheap hangovers for 1/3 - 1/2 the price depending on how many you wanted.
  
• Find a 3d printing service near you and 3D print your own linegrips. Buy some very thin rubber (most people recommend the 1 mm vibram sheets, but I used this cheaper one and it works fine) and super glue, thread it with ~6mm cordelette and you have your own linegrip. Do this as many times as you want.
  
• Tie some cordelette into bunny-ears knots with differing lengths on each one, and clip your homemade webbing pulleys to each loop. The loop lengths should be long enough that your webbing pulleys don't hit each other. Clip one of the sets of webbing pulleys to your home-printed linegrip, and the other set to anywhere on your anchor. These are your homemade soft RPs.
  
• You need 1 weblock. For price, instead of buying 2 stainless shackles, just get 1 and buy the cat-on-slack soft release to hook in directly to your soft release. Or get the normal weblock they sell and hook it onto your stainless shackle. For weight, get a weblock that does not have sharp edges at the connection point and use a soft shackle (discussed below) to connect it to your soft release (like the alpine weblock or use a purelock to go straight into your soft release, both of which are pricey).
  
• Don't buy pre-constructed soft shackles, as they gouge you for the price. Buy your own 1/4" amsteel and make your own soft shackles (1 or 2 is fine for long-lining, make 4 or 5 for highlining as you will swap these out for the steel ones on your soft release).
  
• For anchors themselves, buy static rope. There are plenty of options out there, and what thickness/weight/breaking strength you want depends on your personal priorities in anchor construction, so I won't make a specific recommendation to you. Canyoneering static rope tends to be better in terms of weight/breaking strength, but is pricier. Depends on what you want.
  
  This allows you to use the above posted method, even up to a 27:1 mechanical advantage (if you 3d printed 3 linegrips, with 5 pulleys so you could put 2 extra 3:1 multipliers on a 3:1 system) without losing efficiency. Rigging 100m in the park is impossible just using normal carabiners; you really need the webbing pulleys/hangovers. Best of all, you've accomplished this at a fraction of the price of buying pre-made gear, and none of your janky homemade pulleys or linegrips are life-dependent pieces of gear if you went highlining.

You can get hybrid wheels that handle cruising pretty well, but also will be hard enough to do tricks on. Softer wheels will make bumpy crappy roads a bit easier and less jarring. You may want to go with a little wider of a board for cruising, 8.25" or even 8.5".

If possible, I would check to see if there are any local skate shops in your town. They'll know what's popular for your area's streets, and they'll be able to give you the best advice.

If I had to order something online, it would be to pick a board size, get some indy trucks that fit that board, and then go with some Cruiser wheels. I wouldn't go over 54mm. You can still do many tricks on cruiser wheels, and they'll almost all be beginner tricks. If you find yourself struggling with some, get some harder wheels down the road and swap wheels when you need to. Don't forget bearings and griptape and of course, a super sweet deck.

And make sure you tighten your trucks for more stability and get comfortable with it. Looser trucks are often better the more advanced you get, but do skate tighter trucks to start.

I have found that these are really cheap but actually pretty nice. I’ve tried a couple others similarly priced to these but for me, these give you a great roll and are actually affordable. I’m sure there are much better for more money but I’ve been happy with these.

>As the title suggests. Picked up a pair of Macro blade 80 Rollerblade's with slow roll. I thought I was upgrading my Zetra blades but the Macro's seem so much slower( lots of work).
>
>Any suggestions on an Amazon upgrade wheel/bearing package for outdoor asphalt/concrete skate.

As far as free-spin of the wheels goes, the stock bearings for the Macroblades are a sealed bearing lubricated with a silicone-based grease. In general, grease-lubricated bearings do have a "run-in" period where they do not spin quite as freely as they will once they're run-in & warmed-up.

"Grease lubricated super-precision bearings initially run with a relatively high frictional moment. If they are run at high speeds without a running-in period, the temperature rise can be considerable. The high frictional moment is due to the churning of excess grease, which takes time to work its way out of the contact zone." (source)

Though, it should be noted that, in truth, oil-lubricated bearings also have a similar "run-in"/"break-in" requirement - see here.

As far as slower skating speed and requiring more work to get/keep going, the stock wheels for the Zetrablades and the Macroblades are of the same hardness: 82A. in general, a harder wheel rolls better, as a harder wheel deforms less under load, and loses less energy to hysteresis - "The primary cause of rolling resistance when a body (such as a ball, tire, or wheel) rolls on a surface is hysteresis. This is attributed to the viscoelastic characteristics of the material of the rolling body." If both skates were using the stock wheels (or identical replacements), both would experience the same energy losses, assuming all else is equal.

And, as you describe your Zetrablades as "well worn" & mention using a lithium grease to lubricate the bearings in those skates, I would presume that you are not using the original wheels or bearings in the Zetrablades?

With regard to potential upgrades, pretty much any serviceable bearing from a reputable company (examples: the ILQ series from TwinCam, or the Reds series from Bones) will do, and wheels for outdoor use should generally have a somewhat higher durometer than that of the stock Zetrablade/Macroblade wheels - something like these, these, or these (all 80mm/85A) would work well.

Okay so I have a lot of questions... I'm sorry in advance, I'm really new to this.

I live in a fairly hilly town so power is a must. I'm looking for a dual motor setup with at least a 10-12 mile range. Some parts I picked already are listed below. All Except the trucks are subject to change. I'm going for a white primary with gold accents theme.

If I were to set up a dual motor board
• Which motor mount should I buy?
• Is this MOTOR the best one on the market for its price right now? I'm looking for crazy power! :)
• Which motor pulley do I need for a dual motor setup?
• What electronics do I need to run this setup?
• Where can I find a frame to hold the 18650's and electronics?
• How do you wire these things? I'm honestly just shooting in the dark here...

I already have the board , bearings , remote , and trucks picked out.

If you have any suggestions, please please feel free to add them.
I feel like I'm missing something here...

I own a 3D printer so if there are any extra casings that I need I can just print it.

I appreciate all your help!

EDIT:
Willing to provide compensation or barter for someone to source all these parts and manuals for me

So awhile I go I actually did this. Came out to like 3 or 4 bucks per set of bearings. This is the exact link

They were mediocre. They rolled but they weren't fast. The stock lubricant is a grease I think and is pretty thick. I used them with the mindset that they were my "thrash and throw away" bearings for rain skating. They seized up really fast though because of the double rubber seals. Also a fairly loose fit on the axle and in the wheels. There are some wheels I cannot run them in because they do not fit tight enough. I would not trust them going fast and sliding. They developed a small amount of play between the inner and outer races.

I wouldn't do it again now that I have lots of other bearings. But if you have 4 or 5 setups that need new bearings its not a bad idea.

ALSO an fyi about bearings:
A lot of bearing companies do order from VXB and the like. The manufacturers do in house QC to a certain degree but some companies do additional QC/tolerance testing before shipping out while others just ship them as soon as they get them (this is according to some super old fish threads).

Question, how long did it take for your balance to get really good on the board? First day on it I went from falling off in seconds to some decent cruising after a couple hours of practice. I'm currently able to cruise around pretty good but can't stop looking at my feet when I kick; guess the best way to beat that is to force myself to stop looking...

My biggest problem right now is still balance and really kicking. I'm in really good shape as a runner, but wear out super fast with how hard I kick and how often I gotta do it. Currently riding on slimeball 58mm 97's with bones red bearings. I did order some [ceramic bearings](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QLMQW6 /ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) today hoping when I put them in I get some longer rides. It could also be the surfaces I've been riding on as well. Best ride I've had so far is on some fresh blacktop at the college I work at. Did practice at first in the parking garage top floor away from cars, but holy crap they did the concrete bad up there and its choppy as hell!

Thinking I'll take this other guys suggestion and go hit up my local skate park at 5am this saturday to beat the crowd and just cruise around.

Oh, and 30 YO new skaters unite!

Buy a skateboard, it's awesome 90% of the time. It can kinda suck when it rains or is windy though. But, the freedom of skating around on campus is one of the best things ever. Make sure you buy Bone Swiss Bearings if you get a board. I promise, this is the best decision you can make if you decide to skate. No other bearing set comes close.

I wouldn't order those 3/16" bearings. They are stainless steel and stainless is many times non-magnetic. Here are the bearings I ordered:


3/16": https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBD4P4

1/4": https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012LHL9O

I didn't order 3/8" but that link you provided is probably fine for those.


I ordered 1/4" because according to the chart in the KJ blog post, it looked like the 1/4" bearing fit the 3/8" magnet better to me. I haven't installed a large ship yet though so I don't know if 1/4" is a better option (and I expect that it isn't since everyone seems to use the 3/8")
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/blog.asp?p=star-wars-x-wing

I have two questions:

1. I want to get the square tail from Churchill (it is #13 on the page) (28 in. long, 8 in. wide, and 14 in. wheelbase). What is a good truck size for a board that size? I was thinking about the Caliber Blackout 9", but I don't know how that would fit with the board because this will be the first time I am building a board.
   
   
2. Are there any major differences between the Biltin Abec 7s and the Zealous Built-ins? They look pretty similar to me, so I was thinking of getting the Zealous Built-ins because they are cheaper. Opinions?
   
   Thanks

First bearings I bought were pretty terrible. Then I bought a ceramic bearing which I thought was great, until I got me some red bones bearings. Way cheaper and better.

Buy these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1SY9O8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy yourself a bearing cleaner:
https://www.daddiesboardshop.com/oust-speed-kleen-kit

Watch this video on how to clean them with that kit:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEkAeVVivK8&list=PLxpcf3QVT79RYO_7eRd-l7GMdGkSKWzH3&index=2

I'm getting up to 3 minute spins with the same spinner as OP. I made my own caps though, along with slightly shorter caps for the outer ones for extra weight to make it spin better. Pic: http://i.imgur.com/ZYmwugd.jpg

I need to get me a glass bed too..

Looks like it went up by a dollar lol but still worth it. Skate shops sell these for $25+. Don't buy the kit. Just get the $9 bearings. If you need spacers and washers then buy it separately. It's like $3 :)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product//B002E2MYSI/ref=twister_dp_update?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Spacers & Washers: These are plastic spacers. I ordered it just to see if there will be any difference. It's not required.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QGAJ4G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Ceramic Bearings

I have tried them all and these are hands down the best you can buy for the money.

I won’t use any other bearings in my skates.



If you don’t want ceramic, I recommend these as an excellent alternative at an incredible price.

ILQ-9 Pro Bearings

Thanks! Would end up costing over 130 USD. Being a bit short on cash (Grad-college), what do you think about this package with Real? http://www.amazon.com/Real-Team-Renewal-Skateboard-Complete/dp/B00BIHCDMW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1


So something like this?
This is what I sourced from what you recommended.
Venture Salt 'N' Pepper 5.0 Low Skateboard Truck (Black/White, Set of 2)
39 USD
http://www.amazon.com/Venture-Pepper-Skateboard-Truck-Black/dp/B005QZ1XC8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1371988471&sr=8-3&keywords=Venture+truck

Bones STF Street Tech Formula Skateboard Wheels (Standard, Set of 4) size 52
34 USD
http://www.amazon.com/Bones-Formula-Skateboard-Wheels-Standard/dp/B001H55SP4/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371988582&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=bones+STFs+size+51

Bones Super Reds Bearings, 8 Pack set
USD 19
http://www.amazon.com/Bones-Super-Reds-Bearings-Pack/dp/B002E2MYSI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371988684&sr=8-2&keywords=ones+Reds+bearings

Real Skateboard MVP 3-D 8
35 USD
http://www.amazon.com/Real-Team-Logo-Renewal-Skateboard/dp/B00BIHCE7Q/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1371989286&sr=8-11&keywords=Reals+skateboard

Recommendation: replace axle, nuts.
Axle, nuts, bearing cups that I used when I had bearing problems on my fg:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012ZOTQ8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
New bearings are also a good idea, just measure them. Mine were 1/4", got 100 for $6. linky
A cone wrench makes life easier when replacing the axles, as you need a thin wrench. They're also good for taking off pedals if a standard crescent is too wide. linky
Shop around, these links are just jumping off points, check nashbar and others. I also got Phil bearing grease for repacking the bearings because multiple shops recommended it. Doing this yourself is really fun, and helps you know more of your bike.

I just bought these on amazon... came in a 16 pack to change all 8 wheels, and came with rollerblade sized spacers with the 8mm bearings. Some of the product reviews say they don't come with spacers, so I'm not really sure. The spacers that came with the wheels that came with my skates didn't fit in the new wheels I bought, but the spacers that came with the Bones Reds fit perfect.

I'm guessing if you bought an 8 pack, they might assume you were buying bearings for skateboard wheels and include a skateboard tool instead.

Someone else recommended those bearings, and I'm extremely happy... I roll completely across the park. Maybe buy the 16 pack and replace them all.

Yeah! Here's a picture of the frame with the bolts/bearings installed: http://imgur.com/XU2MpuW. I basically followed this build http://imgur.com/a/sR3r9 but personalized it a little. Essentially I just put a bolt through the side support, then a nut, the bearing, then a lock nut. The first nut is to give the bearing a little clearance from the side boards and the lock nut is to prevent anything from rattling loose as a drive. I used these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C9XDPVQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for the bearings since they're cheap and give you a lot of them. I can't really give much of a long term review on them so far because everything has really only been together for about a week but so far it's all holding up great!

I always enjoy fishing, hiking, or camping when I have break! Or I'll get a bunch of people over and play nintendo 64 games and have a pizza party!

This is my wishlist item!

My go to cheap but good bearings would be these Bones Reds. If you take care not to ride them in the rain, they usually last me about 3-6 months of daily riding.

I'll start with the non-printable mods:

Replaced the PSU with a 750w ATX PSU I had lying around.
If you do this, you will more than likely need to add a power resistor to the 5v rail. I also removed all the original wires and connectors from the PSU and resoldered just what I needed with better rated wire.

Glass bed on top of the aluminum. I just went to Lowes and got them to cut a few pieces of single pane glass.

Mosfet circuit for the heated bed:
https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493092441&sr=8-1&keywords=3d+printer+mosfet

Upgraded Y Carriage:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/heated-beds/products/anodized-aluminum-y-carriage-plate-upgrade-v2-for-prusa-i3-reprap-3d-printer

New Belts:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/linear-motion/products/10-meters-6mm-width-gt2-timing-belt-for-reprap-delta-3d-printer-kossel-rostock

Geared Pulley to replace the smooth one:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/linear-motion/products/3d-printer-idler-pulley-aluminum-dual-ball-bearing-3mm-bore-16-teeth-gt2-belt

Upgraded Heated Bed, this bed heats up slow and I also lost a little bit of build volume. I plan on getting something better here very soon. Once it's up to temp it works well though.
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/heated-beds/products/new-improved-mk3-aluminum-reprap-3d-printer-prusa-i3-heated-hot-bed-build-plate

Inductive Sensor for auto level:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWNCY4C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Copper Tape Because the inductive sensor can't see glass I put this on the bottom side.
https://www.amazon.com/Tapes-Master-10ft-Copper-Foil/dp/B00Z8MCJW2/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1493092625&sr=1-6&keywords=copper+tape

Firmware:
To get the sensor working, you'll have to change the firmware unless you only want to use it as a limit switch. The only option that i'm aware of is Skynet which is based on Marlin and works fairly well. You can find that on their facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/skynet3ddevelopment/

Blue LED Extruder Fan (because the original broke). I don't remember where I got this from. I'd like to find an RGB one! ha

I added a bunch of WS2812 LEDs controlled by an Arduino at the moment, I am using OctoPi so eventually i'll have that control them but at this point they're set to UV colors because it looks cool.


Printed mods:

Frame braces:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1857991
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1430727

Y Carriage Risers:
The Y carriage sits too low and will smack into the Y axis motor so I made these risers to solve that:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2226564

Y Belt Clamp: You'll need one for the new carriage, but I cannot find the one that I used.

Auto level bracket: Though I only have PLA and it kept warping so I made a metal version of it:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2006986

Anti-Z Wobble I modified this but no longer have the file, I also printed a cylinder to wedge into the hole above the lead screws.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858435

Bearings I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Beerings-Malt-ABEC-Skateboard-Bearings/dp/B005NFXHQG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493094188&sr=8-2&keywords=beerings

Belt Tentioners I can't remember which ones I finally used.

I think this is everything. If I remember something else i'll post it.

There's probably vids on YouTube for what's acceptable noise and change noises. I have been running stock bearings on the drive wheels and zealous on front for over 600mi on the v1 and about 200 mi on the v2. Put them in when I got the boards and haven't changed since.

Skip the ceramics, these free spin at least as long as bone ceramics and are cheap to replace. Zealous bearings on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Zealous-Bearings-Longboards-Skateboards/dp/B00BL9VCRE

Not sure on the physics, but the biggest factor is the efficiency of the bearings. Something like these will expend very little energy, in the same way that cheap, ill-fitting bearings with sand and dirt in them would wear down the balls, causing them to grind, the friction from this causing a much lower efficiency.

Super Reds (ones he changed) - http://amzn.com/B00J1O775W
Zealous (the ones he recommends we switch to) - http://amzn.com/B00BL9VCRE

Order bones redz! They rock, set of 8, use 6, full change on front, just outer on back.... I ordered some ceramics (whole set) for my back set since they come with the inner larger set....

The swap gave me approx +0.5mile on range in expert mode

Used a 1/4 drive socket extension to slide in the wheel to remove the bigger inner bearing ring. I used the axle to remove the other six, but bones makes a good tool and bearing cleaner bottle too

https://www.amazon.com/Bones-Bearings-Reds/dp/B00L0GOMCA

https://www.amazon.com/Boosted-Ceramic-Bearing-ACER-Racing/dp/B06ZYPZVK2

The bearings that come with the boostedboard are actually pretty water-resisting. If you are looking for new ones I heard these are good if you are willing to pay.
https://www.amazon.com/Rush-DECK-CERAMIC-ALL-WEATHER-BEARINGS/dp/B001DIQ2SC

I've got like new 97mm white evolve gtr wheels along with old boy ceramic bearings that cost me $45 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QLMQW6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

PM if interested, I can sell as a batch

T'es déjà aller en skateshop directement ? Ils peuvent te recommander, surtout sur Paris il y en a tellement et certain apparemment bien côté

Les trucks ça me parait une bonne idée de prendre de la marque, pour le reste tu peux réduire le coût.

J'ai vraiment lu beaucoup trop et je pense que copier les builds des US ça reviens trop chère et c'est peut-être pas justifié. Par exemple les roues 99a je suis pas sûr qu'il y ai des grosses diff entre les marques.

Donc si tu veux réduire les coûts t'as plein d'option : un deck sans dessin d'amazon (genre ça, juste un exemple pour montrer que ça existe à 20-30€), des roulements mini logo qui est une bonne marque aussi, et les roues sans marques sont les moins chères à 15€

Autre option c'est decathlon qui fournit des pièces pas chère (roue, roulement à 10€ et deck à 30€) et ce genre de magasin tu peux les testes et les retourner si y a un soucis (genre des roulements qui tourne pas surtout).

Donc c'est possible, mais pas en prenant les marques les plus chère partout. :)

Et en baissant les prix tu peux prendre de la qualité (assuré) pour les pièces importantes(que tu devrais pas remplacer pendant des années, même si tes préférences changent) comme le truck, et les pièces sympa comme un deck personnalisé.

edit: à regarder aussi : les trucks mini logo, vraiment moins chère que les indépendants/.. et pourtant rated aussi bon que les indé.. J'ai tellement hâte d'avoir un skate et de tester par moi même !

Hey, I just got my Paris v2 180mm and Orangutan Stimulus 83a wheels. I'm now looking for a bearing and this is what I might be getting. Is the size okay for my wheels? Is there any specific things that I will need to take note of? One more thing is that are these bearing pre lubed? Do I need to lube it by myself? This is my first time assembling my board and I just want to make sure I got everything correct.

Order these bearings instead. Better than stock and the same price:

Boosted Board Ceramic Bearing Upgrade Service Kit by ACER Racing (V2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYG7WT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_82BGAbWY8JCA7

I agree, loosen the wheel nut 1/4 turn. It shouldn't have any side to side play but it will likely loosen up on the side load on the bearings and may fix that issue

​

as for bearings, if you decide to upgrade, flatland 3d sells some and amazon has the Acer ceramic bearings

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYG7WT0/?coliid=I25AJBIOV188D5&colid=1R1W2YXV1UFZE&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Ceramic can't rust and the enclosure needs to be stainless steel too. These bearings fits well :
https://www.amazon.com/Rush-DECK-CERAMIC-ALL-WEATHER-BEARINGS/dp/B001DIQ2SC
I think I'll have to clean them regularly tho

It's pretty noticable regarding turning. Also, the big wheels might be the smoothest ride / commute that I've ever had... Setup:

Oldboy Premium Ceramic Bearings for Longboard, Skateboard, Quad Skate, Inline Rollerblades or Scooter Wheels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QLMQW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lCj3Cb4M58RXY


Tensor Mag Light Skateboard Truck - Silver/Red - 5.25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NNRW55H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4Dj3CbQZENCH8


Orangatang Caguama 85 mm 77a Longboard Wheels for Cruising, DIY Electric Skateboards, Eboards (Blue, Set of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M59PQSN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9Ej3CbBKDBPEQ

Board
https://www.tristarskateboards.com/skateboards/decks/pop-shape/chocolate/cleveland-chunk-deck-pid-11357


Dime Bag Hardware Angled Wedge Rubber Riser Pads 5/16"-9/16" (8mm-14mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXVG3WG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pJj3CbN0BRAW8

I want to rainproof a Penny Board, and I know the bearings will die if water sits in a stainless steel bearing. Are ceramic bearings just as good, and resistant to water getting it? How are the RUSH ceramic bearings (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DIQ2SC/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)? Are there any covers for the wheels I can use to also keep water out? Thanks.

Thanks! :D And aren't they only like $15?

https://www.amazon.com/Bones-Reds-Bearings/dp/B00L0GOMCA

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you're welcome

Bearing is from a 8 pack that cost $14 CAD: Mini Logo

Used krazy glue to glue 4 quarters together for each spoke and to hold everything together. Some gutted paracord to make the edges soft and more support.

I followed this video, but used three spokes instead of two

Edit: also, if you know what to do with ~97 feet of 550 paracord let me know

Edit2: forgot to mention this easily gets 1m30s spins

what you want is this

And I'll have you know that the lube Zealous uses is over $5 an oz, where as bones is probably cents.

US amazon zealous bearings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BL9VCRE/ref=twister_B075KPZQHF?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

edit : They also carry the bushings. There are hard, medium and soft.

These are them on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Boosted-Ceramic-Bearing-ACER-Racing/dp/B01MYG7WT0/

I've seen em for $25 on amazon before.

Here they are for $45
https://www.amazon.com/Bones-Original-Swiss-Competition-Bearings/dp/B000FDQ0D8

Standard zealous bearings :
https://www.amazon.com/Zealous-Bearings-Longboards-Skateboards/dp/B00BL9VCRE

This is what you want. I actually made my own and it wasn't hard at all. This guide is what I used.

I'd just pick this one up. Bones Skate Bearings Cleaning Unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GL232G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5kVavb16MKSTB

100 Bearings for ~$50 on Amazon

It works out to $3.85/set

You can order them online I think? What's the Peug model?

I got this set: ebay

And bearings on amazon

And these wheels on amazon


Saw this thread on this sub and that's how i found the ebay page: https://www.reddit.com/r/NewSkaters/comments/4306uk/50_dollar_skateboard/czejg6f

For bearings, the only choice I'd consider would be Bones Swiss. Fast and Silent. I use these on my board to film and the noise is very minimal.

I ordered some of these: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MYG7WT0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_FJIvCbWT2RQRG

does anyone have experience with that brand?

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Also, some new axle nuts according to this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/longboarding/comments/16ryx6/getting_cheap_and_custom_mounting_hardware_from/

Yeah, I'm just going to buy new ones. Never heard of Zealous before. So I just toss these (https://www.amazon.com/Zealous-Bearings-Longboards-Skateboards/dp/B00BL9VCRE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502134439&sr=8-1&keywords=zealous+bearings) in the wheels and screw the wheel on and that's it? No need for the inner or out washers or anything??