(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best sports & outdoors bike brakes & parts

> I think I might like a minimum of a 105 groupset, but I haven't seen any bikes on that website that include the brake calipers/pads in that groupset. Is this cause for concern?

One way that site saves money is by going to less expensive brake calipers. Some major manufacturers do this as well, actually. Fortunately, Tektro brakes aren't all that bad -- maybe a bit heavier, but the stopping power is usually fine. If it's not, replacing the brake pads with some good Kool Stop pad for about $7 (each wheel) is an easy fix. You can also replace the brakes with [105 calipers]http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_576933_-1___) for $46 total (during a 20% off sale), and that's a relatively simple change to make.

> Next, are the clipless pedals that are sometimes included any good? I thought I read here that the pedals that are included for free are always pretty bad.

I wouldn't say they're bad, but they definitely give you the cheapest pedal they can find. And it's not like good pedals cost that much anyway. Shimano's R540 ($26 during a sale) and M520 ($19 during a sale) are perfectly fine pedals for casual riders. Or even modestly serious riders, honestly. I wouldn't choose a bike from them because it came with pedals. The pedals might be good enough, but if not it's an easy upgrade.

Accessories and consumables

Hand grips, bar tape, seat, seat post, brake pads, racks and even tires are all very personal choices. I am not a serious rider but I have 4 seats and at least 3 set of tires hanging around in my basement.

These are the items that are easy for anyone to customize to their own taste. The average rider will be fine with what comes on a new bike then will start to upgrade as they become more obsessed with the sport.

BikesDirect.com is probably the best example of this. They tend to sell bikes with excellent drive trains, decent frames, and low end everything else because they know their customers. The single best example I can think of is the Windsor Fens which has a full (almost) 105 groupset for only $699 which is not much more than your or I would spend just to buy the the derailleur/shifters/crank etc. The frame is decent but the rest is entry level. This is the type of bike you buy for the platform knowing you will want and need to upgrade everything else as you improve.

You can almost throw brakes into this catagory. Again using the BD Fens as an example which uses the Tektro R530 which are under $60 for the pair on Amazon. Where the Shimano 105 brakes are going to be at least double that amount.

Using amazon because I am lazy

I ran into the same problem. I tried the Dia Compe Aero hoods on my Dia Compe levers and they did not fit to my satisfaction. Honestly, you would be better off picking up a set of Shimano BL-R400 levers. Really nice and comfortable and should provide you with a nice boost in braking performance.

Edit:

Levers on amazon for cheaper

These might be worth trying if those are Shimano 600 levers

It depends on conditions, how you ride, what brake pads you use, etc etc. I'd personally start super cheap with something like this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0653KG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and upgrade as needed. Worst that will happen is you destroy a set of pads and have to get new rotors and pads but they very well might be fine and you can save a bit of money. If you ride in mud a lot and you burn through a set of pads too fast maybe get a set of Mud Runners. Otherwise the only reason to upgrade from super cheap simple steel rotors is weight and better heat dissipation (Shimano IceTech stuff, though this is mostly for MTB).

As far as the Mud Runners overheating on MTB trails, I'm not really sure... You might just have to try it out.

Yeah, your primary riding position is "in the hoods" usually. Moreso on modern bikes because thats where you shift from as well, but still because its more comfortable and the best way to climb, imho. The hoods go around the brake levers to make them more ergonomic. These are a good example.

Edit: Spelling and Linkage.

cheapest solution is to just get a set of shimano hydraulic brakes, they should work but you may need to buy an adaptor if your hayes brakes are not post mount.

something like this would do the job, spending more gets you lighter parts, and/or different pads which offer better heat dissipation. Deore XT and XTR have a free stroke adjust as well as the regular reach adjust.

If you buy shimano brakes as a set they normally come pre bled so you don't need to mess with the oil, but you may need to trim them down if they're too long. Trimming them doesn't require bleeding if you do it carefully and don't drip any oil from the hose or reservoir.

Shimano brakes use mineral oil which does not absorb water/air like the DOT fluid from your hayes brakes do. I also have not experienced any long term issues with their seals.

I had a look at the Hayes website and a quick google around and I think the answers are as follows:

1. I believe it is a G1 caliper.
   
   
2. Looking at the images from 1, if the connector currently functions, then simply unscrewing the existing hose and pushing on a new hose would probably work. The caveat is of course, as long as Jagwire hoses have the same ID as the original hoses.
   
   
3. The rebuild instructions are available on the Hayes website, no rebuild kits are listed. The pads are readily available according to Google, same as MX 1 pads, and it looks like Chain Reaction has rebuild kits. So does Amazon
   
   
4. I would ignore all of the above and make a small aluminium spacer to allow a standard IS or Post mount adaptor to fit inside the rear triangle. It would require a little fiddling around with cardboard templates, but I think a simple rectangular spacer with some holes drilled in it (perhaps two would need to be tapped) would allow the use of a more modern brake system and probably cost you not much more than all the bits needed to make these work properly again. Rebuilding them is risky because you are assuming the inside of the calipers is still in good condition, if you open them up first and inspect you can make a better decision.
   
   I revived an old set of Avid Juicy 5 brakes, just because I could, but when you look at the price of new Shimano kits, it just isn't worth it.
   
   Good Luck

General rule of thumb for 10-speed or fewer for Shimano: the number of sprockets in the cassette should match the number of speeds for the shifters, and the rear-derailleur should be Shimano compatible (which basically means the amount of cable pulled per mm of movement remains the same). A MTB derailleur allows for wider gearing in the back (bigger sprockets), but is otherwise being pulled the same amount by the shifters (same number of sprockets).

It's never a bad idea to spend a little extra on brakes, but I actually have had great luck with Sunlite cantilever brakes as long as a) you set it up correctly and b) use a different, higher quality set of brake pads.

Any good bike store will be able to size you right... I have a 23" frame. You probably want disk brakes. You don't want full suspension for a commuter bike. Go with front suspension that you can lock. You will probably always have it locked because well...Commuter bike... Seriously consider a single speed, because, every time you stand on your pedals to pick up speed to cross the street quickly or whatever, you as a big man, are putting a TON of force on the gears, which as I have learned (the hard way)....(twice)...Will bend the gears unless your in a really low gear. A new set of gears, cost about a fourth the price of a decent bike. You'll want a different seat, those super light saddles that come with your bike are NOT made for you, you want something with gel or foam (you don't want just a gel cover those slide and are generally a pain) get something like this. For reference this is my bike...I have the 2011 model which is only a different color. I have since put on a different saddle, (one from an older bike) swapped out the brakes and have bought a second set of tires for the summer months. I really enjoy the 5 mile ride to and from work everyday. IF you get an ss (single speed) you legs will hurt for the first month. But after that you'll have SUPER calves and youll be passing everyone with their lazy gears...=) Dont be afraid to ask any questions. Hope this helps.

These are pretty standard budget aftermarket brakes. The important thing is to measure from the mounting bolt to the plane of the brake pads on your current set in order to find the reach, then find replacements that fit. Looking at Giant Kronos pics, they look like pretty modern short-medium reach brakes.

Another option is to figure out what model of crank/derailleurs you have and find the brakes that were part of that groupset when they were sold new.

I always believe that anything is safe provided you respect their limits. Coaster brakes can work fine and other times they can be disastrous... it depends on the rider.

But I also like efficiency and getting the most out of your equipment. It'll improve your performance knowing that you have decent brakes.

I like Tektro personally because they are good manufacture that represents very good value for money. You'll have to double check the measurements, but...

https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-Caliper-Brake-Beach-Cruiser/dp/B00BLM3TZO

Something like that. 20 bucks for the caliper, 7 for the cable, and 15 dollars for the lever. Little less then double of that for both front and back. A very nice upgrade for those is the salmon-colored kool stop pads.

Cutting cables and such things is a pain in the butt if you never have done it before, but a lot of videos online for how to do it.

I have the koolstop pads on my Rad Jake. I needed to toe in the Koolstop pads the same amount. At least for me, the different is the koolstop don't squeal at high speeds, but the Avid OEM pads still squeal at high speeds.

*They are awesome in the rain. It's a pretty cheap upgrade with no drawbacks IMO

I'm pretty sure that's a G1. I have the same on an old Jamis Diablo.

I've used these pads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CK0IQI

Fortunately this caliper has worked flawlessly for me since ~2001 with little to no maintenance, so I've never had to try to rebuild them.

This Pinkbike post indicates a G2 rebuild kit will work on it https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=192349 and indeed from a search it looks like rebuild kits are generally listed for both G1 & G2 as the same kit.

Buy tools as needed, no need to stock up with everything right away. Most park tools I buy on Amazon and get them within two days. Tools I would get right away though would be

• 1" Crescent Wrench
  
• Park Tool Cassette Remover
  
• Chain Whip, for removal of a cassette
  
• Park Tool 3-Way (in 4, 5 & 6mm)
  
• A chain tool of some sorts
  
  As for cabling
  
  Universal Brake Cables on Amazon, just make sure you cut of the correct end.
  
  Here is a shift cable set.
  
  As for cutting the cables and housing, do NOT use standard wire cutters. You need a parrot style nosed set of cutters, like this Pedros set. I bought a cheap set of cutters on eBay that work great. When I cut housing I use a little sand paper to flush up the ends.
  
  The 4th hand is not really needed, I get by fine without it.

Second time I've recommended these today! When the pads wear out, you can try these pads for the wetter weather.

I've always been fine with the Shimano pads, but some like the Kool-Stop better.

I have these Cane Creek levers on a bike and love em. Nice broad top surface, which eases out the pressure.

These Vuelta Zerolites appear to be ok, you'll need to buy a s/s freewheel and I would recommend avoiding the very cheap chinese units, and buying a Shimano (MX30?) as a minimum, add a KMC chain, some Vittoria Zaffiro tyres, all done. For the brakes, you may need something like the Tektro r559 to reach the new wheels.

Will also need to figure out the crankset, but if you're lucky, may get away with running just the inner ring on your existing crankset and put a fairly small freewheel down the back (16t or 15t)...maybe

I bought this m315 set from amazon. About the same price each, installed, 100% functional, they are fantastic for an ebike, lots of power, but sensitive enough to allow me to perform stoppies on clean pavement.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073YQP5R8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdo_t1_fLyLBbQZFVDND

Velo Orange makes replacement half-hoods.

Kool stop makes racer pads so your brakes work again.

A little saddle soap and some ass-time and that saddle will get comfy again. It's an AGDA, which is the french knockoff of a brooks.

If you're going to ride it, get a shop with a cotter pin press to replace the cotter pins now; it'll make your life way better. Otherwise, grease 'er up and go!

I have a slightly nicer (JIS cranks) bike of the same vintage. They're lovely things.

SRAM S500s are a little more expensive, but a great choice for those who prefer the feel of SRAM hoods.

Check out the Cane Creek Crosstop levers- I'm running them on my single speed and they are great. I think they will work better for your bike than MTB brake levers since they are angled a little differently

https://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Crosstop-Alloy-Levers/dp/B001JI8SKG?th=1&psc=1

See if you can find somewhere to order in/buy the ones KoolStop offers :) http://www.koolstop.com/english/mafac.html.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003OK5TSG/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493493194&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=kool+stop+macfac. Huzzah! I suggest the 'salmon' compound over the black for cleaner braking in the rain. :)

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

So even 7400 series hoods seem to be fairly difficult to come by. Looking around for alternatives (and some people here have mentioned them), do you think the Dia Compe aero hoods might fit? Or would the reach on them be too extreme?

Thanks for help!

From the bottom up:

• Pretty standard Alex flip-flop wheelset
  
• 56cm Felt Brougham frame (I think it's an '07, but I can't swear to that since I bought it used).
  
• FSA Crank with some super shitty pedals I had laying around.
  
• Shimano 105 brake.
  
• Bontrager stem
  
• chopped riser bars
  
• cheap/light Easton seatpost
  
• cheap Brooks gel seat
  
  It's nothing super flashy or expensive, but she rides like a dream and she's built solidly.

If you're looking for the absolutely cheapest option possible, these cantis will be compatible with your current brake levers (cantilevers and v-brakes use different cable pull ratios). They were easy to adjust, doesn't used those underengineered plastic tensioner rings found on old Shimano cantis, and otherwise worked perfectly fine right up till the day I sold the whole bike.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-Cantilever-Brake-Silver/dp/B003Q3Y0YK

Thank you so much for this comment, thinking more about repair on the road, and a lower entry into doing maintenance on them myself definitely makes me lean toward mechanical, do these look like what I would want: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TV7FHI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A21IJWK8BH7UE6&psc=1

There unfortunately is not any standard caliper thickness.

Potential solutions include:

1. Use spacers (Example) to push the disc rotor further from the hub, to create more space between the hub and the rotor.
   
   
2. Switch to a larger rotor, which could hopefully move the caliper out to a spot where the hub is thinner.
   
   
3. Switch to a different caliper. Hopefully someone else can offer recommendations for calipers that are thin enough.

You may want to look into caliper brakes as well. When I was building mine, the frame and hubs I had didn't have disc brake mounts, meaning I'd either have to weld them on or find really niche adapters (you may be in the same boat?). Most beach cruisers have caliper brake mounting holes though, it's usually just a hole sometimes filled with a bolt in the frame directly above the tire. This is assuming you don't have v-brake mounts which would be even easier.

If you look into caliper brakes, keep in mind that the front and rear brakes aren't the same, since their mounting bolts have to be different lengths.

Yes, like this!

​

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTRO-Reach-Calipers-55-73mm-Silver/dp/B01N99BGKO/

Really, the only tough part about replacing a cable is cutting the steel cable and housing. You can judge the housing length using your old housing.

You can order a new cable and housing as a package online for pretty cheap, but you'd have to install it yourself :)

Adjusting the brake levers entirely depends on the model of lever. There's no generic way to adjust reach and if they're simple levers there is probably no adjustment mechanism. However, she can replace them with a nice pair of "short reach" levers for pretty cheap, these Cane Creek ones are $30-40.

Regarding the front tire... could be 27", 26", 650B... just depends. An LBS could definitely figure it out and order a replacement. I'd do it through an LBS because if they order the wrong thing they'll make it right. :)

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BR-5700-Super-Brake-Caliper/dp/B003RLHMAU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1320589529&sr=8-3

Been hearing great things about these on other forums too

Sure you can.

If you opt for the older non "aero" brake levers, so they're called, you will only have to undo the bar tape from the bottom to the lever mounts. There's likely a bolt, 5mm, that you access from the front of the lever. You may need to push the cable out of the way to access it.

If you're going down this road, I recommend undoing all the bar tape and going for the so-called aero brake levers, which often feature levers that "blade" outward, so that you can more easily access them from the sides of the drops, but more importantly, are generally much larger and vastly more comfortable to hold. The cables are routed internally, under the bar tape, rather than on the outside.

Here are some models:

• cheap: Tektro RL340
  
• with modern flat hood angle: TRP RRL
  
• fancier: SRAM S500
  
  TRP and Tektro make many other varieties to fit your brake cable pull needs, etc.
  
  EDIT: some more things I thought of, plus added (non-affiliate) links above.
  
  You can replace with non-aero brake levers (so called, because the cable is routed externally), or just replace the hood (grippy part). It will cost you the least effort.
  
  The aero brake levers do have other advantages I forgot to mention:
  
• quick-release: when changing out a flat, you should disable rim brakes to spread them, in order to more easily drop the wheel out. While many rim brakes feature quick releases (/u/Synchillas , yours do, by the way), you can add even more quick-release at the brake lever. The RL340s & the TRP RRLs, I know for a fact, have pins that limit their travel. Simply push them to the other position & your brakes will open even more.
  
• return spring: May be an advantage or not. Even in the absence of cable tension, at least the RL340 levers will return to their original, not-activated position. It's neater & prevents the lever from rattling if your brake cable tension is inadequate. Note many, if not all modern brifter units do this. However, some may rightly argue that it's more obvious that your cable tension is (unsafely) inadequate if there is no return spring, since you'll readily see the lever being all floppy, before you pull the brake.
  
  I do hate the fact that the fixing bolt (5 mm hex) is obscured by the brake cable in many brake levers. This is a nuisance if you ever want to just fine-adjust the position of the brake levers, or after a crash & they got bent.
  
  Shimano & SRAM fixed this by relocating the bolt outside. I'm not sure if this is the case with the SRAM S500 levers, but I suspect it would be.
  
  Furthermore, if you come across dysfunctional brifters (shift + brake combos, AKA STI), you can trivially substitute them in & just use the brake function, which should never have issues. I've done this a few times & occasionally your LBSes will discard these brifters, leaving you with a free pair of brake levers. Sometimes they are much nicer than dedicated brake levers.
  
  Here is a short review of the TRP RRL levers. The user does a comparison with the non-aero variety you have, & explains the use of the shim which gives a more modern (IMO significantly more comfortable) flat transition from bar to hood.

> Also will this be a good chain braker?

I use this to brake my chain.

Mind you I'm not braking it directly, but it accomplishes the goal.

RS11 wheels are not disc brake compatible, you'll have to filter by disk wheelsets on whatever website you were planning to buy from. Make sure whatever wheels you pick have the same hub spacing as your bike, which is probably 100mm front 130mm rear if you have a road bike.

Everything else you said is fine, that's all you'll need. If you have dual-caliper disk brakes you won't have to worry about adjusting them between wheelsets, if you have single-caliper brakes some disk spacers might come in handy https://www.amazon.com/Syntace-Disc-Shims-Bag-8/dp/B001PTBPY0

Thanks! These are the ones, right? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GSMSJG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1410748467&sr=8-1

For those that were asking, these are the rotors in question:

Cheap Rotors

If anyone has links to other cheap rotors that work, please share

Since you mentioned suicide levers, you can easily add Crosstop levers. They work great and are easily installed.

These ones

They're definitely an improvement, especially when it's wet. I'm also using some weaker [brakes] (http://www.kcncbike.com/products.php?product=CB6). I'd say it brought the braking back up to being on par with the Ultegra calipers my bike came with.

Front brake is your friend! And the pads on stock tektro brakes are awful in my opinion. I would recommend these instead.

I wonder if this bike will take brakes like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BLM3TZO#Ask

I think that the only real solution is using very thin spacers (for the cassette) and shims (for the rotor). Otherwise you're just running up against minor differences in spacing between hub manufacturers.

I went with the Tektro r559. They were $45 a pair on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTRO-Reach-Calipers-55-73mm-Silver/dp/B01N99BGKO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543383269&sr=8-1&keywords=tektro+r559

​

These barely reached all the way in the rear.

I ran mini-v's over the last winter for what you describe. They were more powerful for the late summer (dry) single track rides but I found that the mud/grit/salt in my area was prone to getting stuck between the pads and rim/tires which made terrible noises, reduced my braking, and eroded ... everything. I'm going back to wide cantis for the rough weather. Discs would probably be the best for single track but might be overkill for anything less.

Try out different brake levers before you buy. I switched from these to these and think that was a bigger upgrade than switching from cantis to mini-v's.

The Tektro Beach Cruiser Caliper should work for you. Any shop in your area should be able to order them, and they are solid brakes.

You'll definitely need a standard reach (vs. the new standard "short reach"). I made the mistake of not checking and had to run out and grab a new brake when I built my Steamroller. I have a Tektro R539.

I'm pretty sure that's the wrong size for this application. The 726 is for mounting on the 26mm stem clamping area of the bars. The RL720 mounts to the 24mm brake clamping area of the bars.

Cane Creek "26mm" cross levers clamp to the 24mm section of the bar.

Tektro RL720 24mm = Cane Creek 26mm.

Tektro RL721 31.8mm = Cane Creek 31.8mm.

There's no CC equivalent to the Tektro RL726 that I can see.

My bike had the old style one too and I just drilled out the hole in the back of the fork to accommodate them. I couldn't really do that for the back one so I ended up using the front brake on the back and getting a really long nut to use the back one on the front http://problemsolversbike.com/products/sheldon_fender_nuts. The drilling took about a minute, just get a drill bit that's the same size as the nut (I think I used a 5/8 bit, but don't quote me on that). If that's too much work for you Tektro makes the old style mount ones too http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-R539-Pivot-Brake-Caliper/dp/B007QMIP2K but its $30 each for basically the same thing

If the front wheel you have has no disc mount holes you could just use the rim brake surface. This rim brake would mount on the hole of the fork.

With the wheelset you posted above, and assuming you'd be putting modern road tires on the wheels, no. You'd want this style of front brake and this style of rear brake.