(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best steering & suspension tools

OTC is good stuff. Just make sure it has the cups for your application. http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7249-U-Joint-Anchor-Service/dp/B0002SRGXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382125556&sr=8-1&keywords=ball+joint+press

I am amazed you can get such a tool anywhere near $200.

This is what my local shop has.

Yes! That. But hey, don't forget that it changed after 2004. 2005+ has a different one!

I actually made my own of the first style, with a piece of pipe and a flange. But it doesn't work with the second style, there's not a big enough flange to drive the seal in.

You are going to need the hub seal tool. Depending on year you'll need this. That hub seal you need, and your 4x4 wont work right if its not on there. Needs to be airtight fit.

2005+

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6698-Knuckle-Installer-Current/dp/B004FZCH70/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=6.0+hub+seal+installer&qid=1570149049&sr=8-2


99-2004

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6695-Shaft-Installer-1998-2004/dp/B0015PKC5W/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=6.0+hub+seal+installer&qid=1570149049&sr=8-1

This video helps. But I'd consider, at least getting these adapters, which you may be able to rent.

> The safety clips didn't fit around my gauge springs but I used it anyway

This feeds into my point: when you use them EXACTLY AS DESIGNED, they are not dangerous at all.

I would suggest using a one-piece spring compressor if you have this issue.

Looks like this one

RamPro Ball Joint Press Service Repair Kit, Removal Tool Set, 2/4 Wheel Drive Vehicle Remover Installer Adapters – Also Used to Remove/Install Brake Anchor Pins and U-Joints (10 Pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MT5HA0X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xkXXzbAC362ZX

Yup something like this Abn Drum Brake Shoe Return Spring Install & Remove Dual-End Pliers Installer & Remover Tool for Removal and Installation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P5DZCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8Fv3DbX3F4703

I used this MacPherson strut compressor from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNPVJC3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LGELBb68WK46T

It made the job much, much easier. The hardest part was getting the strut back in the car. Aligning it with the top can be difficult.

Use the two big silver adapters: one on the top hat, and one as close to the bottom as possible. It'll compress to remove all of the tension.

Don't cheap out on the spring compressors. That, or get someone else to do it and pay the cost of not putting yourself in harm's way.

Maybe something like this (or similar for your make/model):

https://www.amazon.com/MacPherson-Interchangeable-Spring-Compressor-Mercedes/dp/B00G1RXH38

My first thought was to rig something up with a fibreglass fish tape used by electricians.. Like this https://www.amazon.ca/Labor-Saving-Devices-84-240-Fiberglass/dp/B0015G9Q44

Flexible and non conductive.

2015 Scion TC with a clutch 100% smoked at ~30k last month. I did it for about $800, local shops in the area wanted about $1200. Should have thought a few more moments about it, but I needed a little money. Took about a week and a half in the guys garage on weeknights. Parts were $75 flywheel, $150 clutch kit, $30 MTF oil, and $30 for two axle nuts. However, there are a lot of tools you need.

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You had to remove the battery, remove intake, loosen three motor mounts, disconnect the ball joints, drop the lower control arms, remove the sway bar, pull both axles, drop the steering rack...just so I could drop the sub frame, support the transmission, then drain the transmission fluid, and drop the three motor mounts I loosened. Then, you can go ahead and pull the transmission to take the clutch apart. Job took 11 hours...with about 9 hours in delays, and gave him a free oil change (labor) since I had to pull everything else apart anyway. The hardest part was lining everything back together again.

The threads on the axles weren't great, so I had to re-thread both axles with a re-threading die I borrowed from a machine shop at my old work. However, apparently I can do clutch jobs on 98% of all vehicles now. Got one of the hardest out the way. It all depends on the vehicle, it can be a $300 labor job to a $1000 labor job.

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Budget double the time you think it will take for your first time, make sure you torque the most important bolts...flywheel bolts, clutch plate, axle nuts...to spec with a torque wrench (ideally all bolts torqued), use appropriate strength loctite, and have the correct tool to pop the axles out of the tranny. With the right tool, it literally takes 30 seconds with a shim and a hammer to pull an axle. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27305-Axle-Popper-Fork/dp/B01N5SP368

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You're going to need some real tools - like a ratchet set, including some sort of torque wrench.

There's no way you're getting an axle loose with just an L Allen key alone. You'd need a cheater pipe. And then you still have no proper way to torque it when you re-install it.

You can get a 22mm Allen socket for $8 US. It's not the best one ever, but it'll work just fine for home gamer duty.

Various companies also make 4 size allens for axle removals. They also need a ratchet to work - but usually fit 17, 19, 22, and 24 mm allens

If you're running a tighter budget - look into beam style torque wrenches. They cost a fraction of clicker type torque wrenches and do the job just fine. Their down side is being a bit awkward to use.

It's not that hard to rebuild.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=661ov4GIXAA

Getting the pitman arm off will require a pickle fork and a hammer.

http://www.amazon.com/K-Tool-International-KTI71502-Separator-Pickle/dp/B000BHNZRM

Orion Motor Tech Heavy Duty Ball Joint Press & U Joint Removal Separator Tool Kit with 4x4 Adapters, for Most 2WD and 4WD Cars and Light Trucks https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N7CO50E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mydXCbM2DHBB7

https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-29910-Speedy-Universal-Inner/dp/B005I5GLCS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=mayhew+tie+rod+tool&qid=1563643337&s=gateway&sprefix=mayhew+ti&sr=8-3

For anyone that works at a shop and will use it for commercial use.

https://www.amazon.com/Inner-Wrench-Remover-Removal-Tool/dp/B00PB7V1DM/ref=sr_1_29?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520636944&sr=1-29&keywords=inner+tie+rod+tool

I use this tool

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W83022-Joint-Separator/dp/B002KS17N4#

Rarely used any wrenches bigger than 1 5/16 in our shop. Sockets on the other hand...

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-9850-6-Point-Bearing-Locknut/dp/B000OCIWVI

It's probably a 2-3 hour job for a shop to do it. So you're looking at 200-300 in labour, or $100 for the torque wrench and $14 for the impact socket and $92 for the u-joint/ball joint tool.

Having the high torque spec torque wrench might be niche but you can/will use the u-joint tool if you ever do your steering stabilizer, and any other ball joint...

The screw press I use gets the job done fast, works almost every time and doesn't damage anything so doing it with a socket, hammer, and vice to start and then escalating when it doesn't work just wastes time. This is the current version of what I use. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7249-U-Joint-Anchor-Service/dp/B0002SRGXY Wait until you get a cap that is seized on the joint, even if you pop it out of the yoke it won't come off, even when heated. Then you have to cut the joint or cap to get it out.