Reddit mentions: The best toggle switches

You can do a lot with an arduino, but that requires some basic knowledge of how to wire one up have it interpret your inputs, convert those into outputs, and wire up lights and such.

To get started, there is an easier way. First, you need one of these($12), then something like this($9...ish) in a size that works for you, then a couple of packs of momentary switches ($15 for 20 of these or find some you like better).

That brings us to $36 for a basic control box that can support 12 general buttons and 4 directional buttons (Up, Down, Left, Right).

Plan your layout on a piece of paper and move the buttons around until you have a setup that looks ok, drill or cut holes in the project box (this is easier if it is the plastic kind) that are the right size to insert the buttons and tighten the nuts on the back to hold them in place, attach the provided wires to the buttons (there isn't a backwards so you can't mess up) and plug the other end in the board (it has a plug so you can't mess up). Once everything is connected to the board, make a cut at the edge of the box at the back for the USB cord to come out of, screw the project box together, and plug it in and set your bindings in ED.

DONE!

If you want to get fancy, I put something like this on the side of the box (counts as two buttons for the board) and use that for vertical (up/down) thrust. I put in one of these instead of directional buttons and glued one of these on top, but for that you will need to figure out a little simple wiring (it isn't too hard if you feel up to it). I also replaced one of my buttons with this FA toggle with a light (need to wire the light to an unused pin on the board that has power, but not too hard).

Yes, those options add some work and raise the price, but I love the thing. It is easy to use, responsive, far better than a flight throttle in my opinion.. I will never give it up. I am already planning the next version, which will probably use the same board, but require a little more technical know how to build.

For now though, start with the $36 version. You can always buy another $9 box down the road and a few more buttons to improve and rebuild it as you gain skill and confidence. Maybe someday you will move on to an arduino, which can support a lot more buttons, interaction, and customization, but you don't need to start there.

> (0 -> bridge pickup, 5 -> both, 10 -> neck)
Sounds like what you want is "modern" wiring. You can get those sounds with just the volume knobs, when the switch is in the middle position. And I agree with Boiller: get a SwitchCraft toggle switch. They're $16 on Amazon with free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Switchcraft-Short-Straight-Toggle-Switch/dp/B002MVIN3Q

The top customer review says: "Replaced my faulty epihone switch, as soon as you use this you can feel the quality, wish Id done it sooner. Soldered it in myself pretty easy by google for wiring diagrams of my current guitar." lol

And since you'd be soldering that new switch, you might as well implement the modern wiring at the same time. It'd be worth theo trouble because then your guitar will do exactly what you want it to do. Here's a video about it that shows that it's not all that difficult:

Hopefully I'm not too late posting this. I need to install turn signals on my bike. The previous owner removed everything, the lights, controls, relay.

My question pertains to the controls. I originally was going to pick up a factory turn signal switch, but I sort of like the naked look. So instead I plan on using a micro SPDT toggle. I really want to install it into the bar itself, and not some type of holder.

My bars are 1.25", and taper to 1" OD at the ends. This means the ID is somewhere around 7/8" to 15/16". The problem is the smallest switch I've found has a total depth of 1.4", and has to be installed from the inside of the bar.

This is the switch.

I can't seem to find or think of a clean way to install them. The hole for the switch only needs to be 0.25". I haven't drilled yet, because I don't want to ruin the bars. The only way I've thought of is to drill an elongated hole, bend the terminals, and squeeze the switch through. But I'm pretty sure the nut for the switch won't conceal the hole.

Has anyone done this before? Or have any suggestions on how to accomplish this? Once I can figure this out, I also plan on adding micro push buttons for the horn and starter.

Thanks in advance, and sorry about the lack of metric measurements. :P

After seeing a couple posts of people's custom button boxes on reddit I knew I had found my next project. I've been doing quite a bit of Arduino and small electronics lately, and this was the perfect fit. So off I went to Amazon, ordered a bunch of stuff I thought might be cool / useful and started piecing things together. Took a few weekends of working on it here and there, the most time consuming part just being tediously soldering and wiring the 38 inputs.

​

Was originally going to set it into some sort of project enclosure, but ended up getting impatient and just mounting it to two pieces of plywood with some feet. It added enough heft to it that I can lift the switch guard and rotate the somewhat stiff selector without issue. Eventually I'll get a better enclosure for it, probably grab one off of Hammond mfg or get someone with a larger 3D printer to make one. The Engine Start and black/red button (that I'm going to use for quantum jump) have leds in them that I don't currently have hooked up to the Arduino, but once we get some sort of API into Star Citizen hopefully I can tie them to engine state and jump spool/ready state.

​

The controls are:

Power on, flight ready, 3 misc buttons, zoom rotary encoder, 3 misc buttons, quantum spool, quantum jump

Hat switch + center for shield distribution and reset, engine, shield, and thruster power switches, power distribution profile selector, misc selector

Flare Fire button, flare select, 7 misc toggle switches, self destruct switch, eject switch.

​

I mapped everything to a button in the Arduino code (no rotary encoder as zoom in this screenshot) so that I can easily bind to functions in Star Citizen. Unfortunately without an API this means the switch positions can get out of sync with the actual ship status easily. If by the time of release / they make an API there still isn't a way to read / set state by API then I'll probably make a new version with only toggle buttons.

​

Code Libraries

PCF8574_library for interfacing with the IO expanders
- https://github.com/xreef/PCF8574_library

ArduinoJoystickLibrary for emulating a joystick on windows
- https://github.com/MHeironimus/ArduinoJoystickLibrary/

​

Useful Instructables

Joystick Library
- https://www.instructables.com/id/Create-a-Joystick-Using-the-Arduino-Joystick-Libra/

PCF8574
- https://www.instructables.com/id/PCF8574-GPIO-Extender-With-Arduino-and-NodeMCU/

​

Parts List

1 Terminal Expansion Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PGDWJ2V

3 PCF8574 IO Expansion Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B95LMLQ

1 Rotary Encoder - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DM2YMT4

1 4 Position Rotary Selector - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JN2967L

1 Red Ring Momentary Push Button - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017ILTX60

1 Engine Start Momentary Push Button - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MK2394L

5 Heavy Duty Toggle Switch - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078KBC5VH

1 12 Position Rotary Switch - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074WMC9C8

1 5-Channel Rocker - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K5PFPNC

1 Arduino Micro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFY2S56

7 Red/Black Momentary Push Buttons - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BD2D96W

2 Red Cover Toggle Switches - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BD2D96W

8 Small Toggle Switches - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013DZB6CO

It's safest to have the ground of your 2x6 battery "bank" permanently connected to the ground post on your main battery, and have the positive side switched. 2 gauge wire is major overkill. 8ga is plenty. But what you're describing sounds a lot like what I've seen 100 times in bug-out and camper type trucks; A separate 12v source that's charged by the truck when running but disconnected when off.

Now, the question is how to control the power slider motor from outside. I assume you're comfortable getting access to the slider motor under the trim panel. Once at the motor you'll see it has 2 wires running to it. You'll need to tap each of those wires and run your new lines down and outside the cab, mating up with your 2ga charging lines and bring them back up and into the bed area. From there you need that DPDT Center-Off switch. One like this. The reason you need that specific switch is because with the switch in the center everything you're adding is disconnected from the main system and you can still control the window from the driving position. You also want to add a 10A circuit breaker so that if you accidentally leave the switch clicked on too long the breaker will protect the motor. With the switch getting (protected) 12V on one pole and ground on the other, you can wire it so with switch in position 1 you Power wire A and Ground wire B. In position 2 you Ground wire A and Power wire B. This give you control in both directions, while maintaining full control within the cab.

Remember you get what you pay for, but since you're just trying this out I found some cheap options on amazon:
Volt meter
3 position switch Keep in mind you need to make sure you match your inputs and outputs to the voltage the PLC I/O wants (120v AV or 24v DC)
Indicator light you can use as an output to turn on/off
Looks like the PLC wants 24vDC power so you'll need something like this to switch your 120 power from the wall.

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

First of all, these:

http://www.danarmstrongeffects.com

http://tonemachines.blogspot.com/2011/10/jordan-boss-tone-1967.html

Next:

Any standard stomp switch (technical name: 3pdt footswitch) can be replaced with a 3pdt toggle switch very easily (desolder amd resolder 9 points). So, say you do an elevated pedal board, or something that sits on the arm of a chair/wheelchair you can just hit the toggle. http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-3PDT-Toggle-Switch/dp/B001TJ4QII

Lets say you want something like a Boss pedal, that doesn't have a standard stomp to replace. That's where a true bypass looper would work, again, with toggle instead of stomp. Commercial ones seem really expensive. If you or someone local can build one, it'll be more cost effective. http://www.beavisaudio.com/Projects/Looper-Switcher/True-Bypass-Looper-With-LED.png

Not the person you replied to, but I will try to help.

Electrical switches are relatively simple devices but because there are so many styles of switches available, what you are asking for is really not that simple.

The first question is: What style of switch do you want? Toggle, momentary toggle, push button, momentary push button, rotary, magnetic, rocker? There are literally hundreds of thousands of different switches available.

The next question is how will you be making the connection? Solder, crimp, barrel connector, dupont, molex, scotchlok, screw terminal?

And finally, how and where will you mount the switch? Inline on the wiring harness? Do you need to drill a mounting hole? Are you looking for something that comes with mounting hardware? Is there clearance for your switch location?

I know this is all new to you and I am throwing out a bunch of terms you may have never even heard before. The simple solution for you, at least at first, might be to wire your LED strip right into the output screw terminals of your power supply. Then when the printer is on your light is on, and the light is off when the printer is off. Just be sure to mind the polarity (red to +, black to -) and wire into the 24v dc output side and not the 120v ac input side of the terminal block.

If it helps, here is a short list of switches I have purchased for different projects (all of these require soldering and some kind of mounting hole or hardware):

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SUXW18S
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DS1GY0
https://smile.amazon.com/ZUPAYIPA-Solder-Rocker-Switch-Toggle/dp/B01N2U8PK0
https://smile.amazon.com/Magic-shell-5-Pack-Rocker-Position/dp/B07D285PLL
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ICKO30

Hello, tbh id just like to have the most versatile set up possible and having individual volume and tone for each coil seemed/seems like the most versatile way to do this, im not too worried about space since i plan to add a jack ferrule and if the pots dont fit in the pre made cavity of my bass i could route some more space, aslo drilling holes on my pickguard doesent bother me.

so a basic tldr of what i want to do is this:

1. add a new pickup(link bellow) and have some way of turning it off, on and blending with the stock p bass pickup
   
2. add a master blower switch.
   
3. have diferent tones for new pickup and stock p bass.
   
4. add a capacitor switch.
   
5. have a kill switch.
   
   this is the hardware i currently have:
   
   pots: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018Z5C2M0/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   switch for killswitch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JBF815/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   caps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TY3B3P/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   blower switch: https://www.ebay.com/p/500k-Long-Shaft-Push-Pull-Pot-Audio-Taper-DPDT-Switch/691216382?iid=361797801322&chn=ps&_ul=MX&dispctrl=1
   
   blender for pickups: https://reverb.com/item/14436357-ep-4586-000-1-cts-dual-500k-500k-concentric-control-pot-for-guitar-bass
   
   new pickup: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RXBUVEE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   ​
   
   let me know what you think of that and if theres a better way to do it.
   
   also id like to do it with the hardware i currently have.
   
   thanks m8

This looks pretty simple. You only need this and this and you're in business. If you really want to replicate his toggle switch look, I'd peruse antique stores/ebay/flea markets for something with the same toggle switch look. I think that style was popular as light switches in the early 40s or something.

Cool. So if I ordered an SPDT like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Position-Panel-Switch-Solder-SS12F15G3/dp/B008DFYT0Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464295250&sr=8-3&keywords=spdt+2+position+mini+toggle). It would serve the same function as ordering one like this?

So there's 6 obvious buttons on the left hand, plus the red one, plus the two yellow things.

On the right hand, there's 8 toggle switches, one touchpad, two sets of +/- buttons, two pairs of three buttons, and then I can't tell how many buttons are under the forearm. Any ideas y'all?

Gotta love that people who do nice work and ask legit questions get downvoted now because they aren't posting wrenches, pulleys, or 10mm memes.

Anyway, I'm with the other guy on plan Bondo and paint. Alternately, it looks like it might fit a nice red round toggle switch to do something or do nothing as suits your needs.

Edit: You could also just buy a dash hole plug in the size you need, if you don't want to get cute with a switch. Cut off any excess with a razor knife if it can't fit by the edge, I don't think it'll be ugly, but maybe my standards are wack.

I could put this behind say a plastic trigger for a game controller with a spring http://www.allelectronics.com/item/mpb-143/soft-touch-tactile-pushbutton-spst/1.html

And I love how these are designed but i cant seem to find one like it for DC. https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a13112000ux0329-Trigger-Switch-Piece/dp/B00HGAM5UU

Camera
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B078XV2MRH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This camera is sold only on amazon.ca, but u can get better cameras that are cheaper than the one i got.

Switches
https://www.amazon.com/yueton-Terminals-Position-Toggle-Switch/dp/B013DZB6CO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523136755&sr=8-3&keywords=DPdt

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LZVASTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pins
https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-Female-Connector-Terminal-2-54mm/dp/B0146DJR9Q/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1523136919&sr=8-6&keywords=male%2F+female+pin+connector+terminal

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0156C5538/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Female Rca
I used my old female rca cables that were just laying around but any female rca jack will work
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-RFIF2SW-Speaker-Adapter/dp/B00G352P2C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1523137091&sr=8-5&keywords=female+rca+connector

If you get the 24 fret version, you'll only really have trouble reaching the last 2 frets, so you'd end up with the same accessibility as a 22 fret version. Not terrible. But the toggle switch for the pickups would probably get in the way very easily, as well as the tone control. Volume control placement should be fine for the most part. Personally I'd try to remove the tone pot, depending on genre you won't really use it, and also replace the pickup toggle with 2 of these bad boys (preferably mounted onto the plastic cover at the back of the guitar). If you can't rewire a guitar or know someone who can, I don't think I could recommend this guitar for left handed use. However if rewiring is a possibility, that thing will work better upside-down than a Stratocaster, Telecaster, Les Paul, etc.

Edit: you'll also have to replace the nut, yeah.

Thanks for the feedback. I think I am going to try something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087ZEQ0K

The biggest question will be how fast it can cycle between on and off.

Search for pretty much any kind of switch on Amazon or google. Lots of them will say "DC 12V 20A Automotive/Marine Switch," etc. The ones that don't say AC or DC almost always list a voltage that's common for one or the other (12v, 24v, 125v, 250v). Typical marketing nonsense. Just like how 16 "gauge" wire isn't the same as 16AWG, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GSW-123-Electrical-OFF-Mom/dp/B0012ZE8IC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=rocker+toggle+switch&qid=1571794115&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE1MzJVN1hNVEI1NU0mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzNzI2NjQyRzRNWUdVNEczU1BJJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyODI0NzExTDE4MVJBRk0yQVNMJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

https://www.amazon.com/warranty-Latching-Stainless-Mounting-Self-locking/dp/B07932GYNH/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=dc+12v+switch&qid=1571794073&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzOFI0SDNVR1FKTUhLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTc5MDk1M1NKOEhQUjJEMjhCOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjQ4Mjc3TFRSNVRBOVpGTllMJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

https://www.amazon.com/ZUPAYIPA-Solder-Rocker-Switch-Toggle/dp/B01N2U8PK0/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1SJOGUL3HGSAD&keywords=rocker+toggle+switch&qid=1571794160&s=industrial&sprefix=rocker+toggle+%2Cindustrial%2C197&sr=1-6

What you have is a three position toggle switch. I don't know if these are allowed to be installed in residential switch applications like you have.

What I would do instead is wire it up with a single pole double switch that will control the heater and fan independent of each other.

How it gets wired will depend on current wiring situation.

I used keyed toggle switches like this one https://amzn.to/2RDBrs2 for my two flood lights

What about something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-20-Amp-Toggle-Switch-1221-2IL/dp/B003AU7VAY

LED strip (12V, 60 LEDs/m, 5050 LEDs) is darn cheap, fairly bright, and all over the internet. Here's 5m of white on Amazon. If that's not bright enough, you can get higher lumen LED arrays that run on 12V.

You could use some little toggle switches or maybe rocker switches.

The switch I'm using is this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DFYDNE?keywords=toggle%20switch&qid=1449860351&ref_=sr_1_15&sr=8-15

It has 3 positions (ON on each side, OFF in the middle I believe) and 3 places to connect

momentary switch $8.79 (for 25, you need only 1)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQVGLC/

induction heater $12.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/

project case: $12.98

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0107WU67M/

mosfet: $7.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J78FX9S/

power plugs $9.99 (you need only 1 pair)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078YP4CP6/

test tubes $6.02 (cut in half, you'll break a couple until you get one you like)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RKMWZOA/

on/off switch $6.50 (for 15, you need only 1)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2U8PK0/

​

in addition, you'll need some 18-20ga wire & solder, and a 12v/6a to 10a power supply

You would have to find the right switch for you application, but here is what I found on amazon similar to what you are asking.