Reddit mentions: The best audio & video disc cleaners

This is ridiculous for an $8 flashlight. You should complain and insist they replace it. The squeaky nail wheel gets the greasy pounding.

These cheap lights often have crappy contacts, and what you describe happens a lot. The good news is that they're electrically extremely simple. Except for the driver (the circuit board that regulates the voltage and current from the battery to the LED,) it's about as simple as a circuit can get, so it's a good device to learn on.

I have several cheap flashlights, ranging from a few bucks to ~$30. Many of them have poor contacts in at least one place and exhibit exactly the behavior you describe. A simple flashlight consists of the following basic parts:

• Battery/batteries. This is where you keep your electrons.
  
  
• Conductors. This could be wires, and the body of the light is often used to carry your electrons.
  
  
• The emitter. The LED(s), often mounted on a heat sink of some kind so it doesn't burn up.
  
  
• The driver. This is a circuit board that regulates current and provides the logic for what the switch does.
  
  
• The switch. Turns the light on/off, sometimes cycles through modes. In cheap lights, sometimes does nothing.
  
  
  If you took a battery and an LED, and connected them, it might light up, if the battery let out electrons at the right rate, and with the right pressure. It might melt the LED. It might not be enough to light the damned thing at all. LEDs have needs, just like women. You must (well, should,) give them the right voltage (electron "pressure,") and current (electron "volume,") and, as we all learned from Geordi LaForge, if it doesn't work, you might need to reverse the polarity.
  
  Batteries and LEDs have polarity--they both have a positive and a negative side. Light emitting diodes (and diodes in general,) only allow electrons to go through them in one direction. That's most of their job. The glowing brightly thing is just a side gig. If you connect two AAA batteries up to a 3 volt LED, and you don't get the polarity wrong (50/50 chance of getting it right without looking,) the LED will make light. (And heat. More on that later.) If the polarity is backwards, nothing will happen because fuck you, I'm a diode. I only go one way.
  
  If your battery doesn't put out the right voltage (the unit of electrical pressure) or amperage (the unit of electrical current,) you want some way of stepping those things up or down. The driver circuit does that. Better drivers are called "constant current" drivers; they'll keep pumping out the same current until the battery drops below a critical level. That means that your flashlight will be the same brightness (more or less) from the time you pop in a new battery to the time when the battery croaks.
  
  Some driver circuits are very efficient, and others suck balls, wasting some of your battery's precious electrons on stupid shit, like lipstick and shoes. Different LEDs also have different efficiencies, converting energy into heat and light in differing proportions. High efficiency LEDs turn more of your electrons into light, and less into heat. There will always be some energy wasted as heat, that's just how the universe works. An example of a very efficient LED is the XM-L2, made by a company called Cree. They kind of rock, and flashlights that use good Cree LEDs usually rock.
  
  All of the stuff I've mentioned so far is probably stuff that you can't fix (at least not yet.) The following stuff is stuff that you can fix.
  
  Conductors: This usually includes stuff like the battery contacts (which may be a spring, or flat tabs,) the body of the flashlight (usually connected through its threaded parts,) some wires (sometimes connecting the switch, the driver, and the LED.) The switch is also a conductor, but it only conducts in a specific position.
  
  The first thing to do is to identify the electrical path. It'll be something like: from the battery, through the switch, through the body of the light, to the driver board, back through the top of the battery. You need to test (or at least mess around with, AKA "experiment with,") each place where there's a connection. Each connection should be solid and uninterrupted, and if it has contacts (places where two conductors meet,) they should be clean, and firmly touching the mating contact. It's really a good idea to get yourself at least a cheap multimeter (an electrical test meter.) It makes a huge difference in fixing electrical things.
  
  Here are some examples of stuff to check. Contacts can be cleaned with a pencil eraser, or with Caig DeOxit, if you're fancy.
  
  
• At the bottom of the battery: are springs nice and strong, putting good, hard pressure on the battery? Clean them, and the battery ends. Maybe stretch the spring so the battery is held more tightly.
  
  
• At threaded parts of the body: Are threads clean and free of oils? Do the threads mate tightly? This can be hard to see--it can feel tight, but not be making a great electrical connection. Here, a multimeter can help, though you could also just use a battery and light. Disassemble the entire light until you have just the body. Screw it together, and make sure that a battary & light connected through the top & bottom provides good conductance. A meter can tell you the "resistance," ie. how well or poorly the body is conducting electricity. (Should be almost zero resistance.)
  
  
• At top of the battery: Is the bump making good, solid contact with the driver board (or top contact.) Clean contacts.
  
  
• Wires on driver board -- are they solidly in place? A meter can help test the connection here. Resoldering may be in order, but you need to be careful not to damage the board or LED with excessive heat.
  
  
• Wires to the LED -- as above.
  
  Now... the switch. If the switch is bad, you can fix it if you're really enthusiastic, but usually people just swap them with a good one. To test this, use a piece of wire to bypass the switch. "Shorting" it out--this cuts the switch out of the electrical path. (You probably need to do this with the bottom removed, so you need to replace the threaded body connection with another wire.) If everything works fine with wire replacing the switch, you may have a bad switch.
  
  My caffeine level just dropped, so I'm stopping. Hope that helps you figure out what to Google, anyhoo. Take your light completely apart and test all the parts. Learning how isn't hard at all. All the answers are one the web!
  
  Have fun!

If you're only seeing large dust particles on the surface but not hearing much in terms of popping and crackling, then I'd go with just a basic carbon fiber brush like this AudioQuest one. If you're new to vinyl and don't already have one, it's a good thing to pick up anyway. It's good practice to brush each side before each spin. While these types of brushes won't clean a truly dirty record, they'll help your clean records stay clean.

If your records are noticeably loud and noisy then you'll probably have to go the route of wet cleaning. I see kits like this one a lot but I don't think they're really worth the money. You can do a better (and cheaper) job with:

• Microfiber Cloths - Run them all through a cycle in your washing machine (just water, no detergent) to get rid of any fuzz.
  
• Isopropyl Alcohol & Distilled Water - Put a solution of 1 part alcohol and 2 parts water into a spray bottle. You could even use as little as 1 to 4, I don't think it makes a huge difference. Make sure to get 90% plus alcohol and avoid any types of additives like menthol.
  
  You can lay one cloth flat to set the record on, spray it down and scrub around lightly with one of the cloths (it can help to dampen this with the distilled water). Personally I like to then dry the record with another cloth, spray it down with just distilled water to rinse it then dry again and repeat on the other side but you can find a method/system that works for you. If you're being super particular about it then remember to flip and replace the cloth the record is on so as not to contaminate the side you just cleaned. Also if you're worried about getting your labels wet, car applicator pads like these actually cover a label almost perfectly and they can also be used in place of a microfiber cloth to scrub the record, they work great.
  
  If you plan on sticking with vinyl for awhile though it's worth it to save up for a SpinClean. I was a skeptic for a long time but I'm glad I finally got one, it really is worth the money. It does a good job, it's well built and it's stupidly easy to use. If $80 seems too steep for a yellow plastic trough (which it really is, unfortunately) there are cheaper models such as this. Doesn't have a lid and comes with different cleaning fluid but it doesn't seem like a half bad option.
  
  Whichever option you go with always make sure you're putting your newly cleaned records into clean inner sleeves. If they were dirty in those sleeves it's very likely those sleeves are dirty too. Also remember to keep your turntable mat and stylus clean.

Thanks for the detailed reply!

> I'd recommend using www.vinylengine.com[1] to search both makes and models. What you'll find is that the PL-600 was one of the finest, highest performing with top specs, full auto turntables ever made. Then look at the specs for the Dual and you'll have your answer. I don't mean to step on the toes of Dual fans, but it's not even close.

I have heard the PL-600 is a gem. I was pretty pleased to pick it up. Now, I will say, once I got the Dual up and running it was a really warm sounding table. It has an old Shure Hi-Track head on it (which I believe is now branded the M91E) whereas my PL-600 has
a brand new M92E on it. I'm not experienced enough to know if that has any real bearing on it.

> It sounds to me like your PL-600 needs a new tonearm belt (easy to find through Google) and some Caig DeoxIT sprayed under the buttons. The power button on my PL-600 stuck and that solved it.

The tonearm belt diagnosis is indicated by the failure of the arm to move and the motor hum I hear from the area? Also is this the cleaner you're talking about here? I assume I need to remove the shell and gently squirt it up into the contact area on the underside of the buttons? Remove the buttons and actually clean them in detail like I would clean a gun part?

> While you're at vinylengine.com, download the service manual for the PL-600 and it'll take you step-by-step through the belt replacement process. If you're not comfortable doing it, print out the relevant pages and take it and them to an electronics tech. Explain that you have the service manual and you'll save him time, and yourself money.

Already printed them out and reviewed them. I think I can pull this off. I'm 95% inexperienced with turn tables but I'm pretty handy with all sorts of other stuff. Let's say I need a hand though... when you say electronics tech is this the sort of thing a general electronics repair shop can handle or should I seek out a table repair shop?

> Your PL-600 is a real find. They had all the performance of the legendary PL-630, but due to a minimalist appearance they flew under the radar and didn't get the props they deserved. That said, if you can get it up and running well, you'll have something right on par with the Technics SL-1600MK2, which is saying something.

I think the appearance had a lot to do with it. I also think Pioneer really screwed up by releasing a later PL-600 (why they used the same model number I'll never understand) that was a really junky nearly-all-plastic model that sorta look like the original PL-600 but didn't perform like it at all. I bet a lot of people who had experience with the newer PL-600 looked over the older ones and/or told their friends not to bother picking them up.

> One last thing, check to see that your PL-600 suspension is active. The platter and tonearm should bob up and down a little when you touch them. When I bought mine from the original owner, the transit (shipping) screws under the platter were still in place, and had been for 35 years.

I'm pretty sure the suspension is active. The platter/tonearm bobs gently about 1/8th to 1/12th of an inch or so independently of the chassis. It moves a lot less than the Dual, however, which bobs all over the place. Should there be more give in the PL-600?

Thanks again for the helpful reply!

Hey! Stoked on your purchase! Curious though, did you mean LP120?
But hope I can help answer your questions!

1. I tend to not, the main dust cover is plenty imo.
   
2. A stylus brush, a wet anti static record brush, along with the one you have in your post. Basically just cleaning tools. Another good buy is one of these record sleeve packs. Once you start collecting, its best to replace the paper sleeve a new record would come with or an old sleeve from the thrift store. Keeps the records in their best shape. Lastly, one thing ive been eyeing is one of these. Seems to have some pretty good reviews.. haha
   
3. Stick er on the turntable, turn it on and use the wet brush for a few rotations. NEVER move the brush in terms of side to side motions, always let the spinning do the work. This video has some tips on cleaning, give er a watch
   Hope my answers help!! Enjoy your new turntable!! Whatcha listening to??

as others have said, its worthwhile to upgrade to a turntable with an included dust cover. this will significantly cut down on dust on the tt.

some dust is inevitable, short of a white room. no one has really answered your question about maintaining a clear playing space or how to clean the stylus/records though. here's some more info.

---

cleaning the stylus

i use one of these.

however, if you want to go the inexpensive route, i dont recommend any alcohol based cleaners because it can degrade the connection of the diamond/ceramic/etc. tip to the cantilever. instead, you can use a magic eraser. dont go out and buy that mr. clean shit either, its a rip off. buy it in bulk for cheap and clean your whole house while you're at it! just keep in mind that this shit can and will snag on to your stylus and, if you're not careful, ruin your whole day with a bent cantilever.

if you want to go the alcohol route, make your own liquid. be sure to use distilled water(80%) and a mix of isopropyl alcohol(20%). i did this for a time with out any problems, but its not ideal. apply it with a stylus brush. APPLY THE SOLUTION DIRECTLY TO THE BRUSH. NEVER DIRECTLY TO THE STYLUS.

i even hear some people use contact lens cleaner.

if you be fancy...give this stuff a try. a good buddy swears by it, but im a cheap shit and can't speak to its quality or performance.

---

cleaning your records

you have many options here.

• least expensive - hand held cleaners.
  
• more expensive - spinclean
  
• even more expensive - squeaky clean.
  
• "pro grade" cleaning options such as loricraft, okki nokki, or smart matrix, etc.
  
  if you're just starting out, i would just go with a hand held cleaning solution for now. plenty of youtube videos online on cheap DIY cleaning methods as well.
  
  ---
  
  cleaning the platter and plinth
  
  i do this at least once a week. more if i'm spinning a lot. use a microfiber towel. NO WATER. water attracts more dust, and doesn't belong near sensitive electronics. remove the platter if you are able and be sure to wipe it thoroughly before using again. clean under the platter as well. DON'T wipe off any exposed bearings that are oiled/greased as doing so could harm the equipment over time.
  
  ---
  
  record storage
  
  if you live in a very dusty place, it might be worth it to invest in some outer sleeves for your records. for the most part though, as long as you keep everything clean you should be just fine. many people get by just fine without them.
  
  ---
  
  enjoy your new tt! :)

You can get a Spin Clean which uses proper fluid (not soap) to clean your records and doesn't submerge the middle of your record and ruin it. It also includes microfiber towels and brushes to dry and also to get out any embedded dirt from grooves.

Or if you're cheap like me, you can just use microfiber cloths and anti-static spray like this and just spritz your microfiber towel/cloth with it like 2-3 times and give your record a quick wipe. Gets rid of any static that built up in the pressing process and taking your record out the first time, which 1) prevents it from picking stuff up and 2) gets any excess vinyl out of the grooves so you won't have any issues.

If you have a TON of money to blow, get a VPI machine, which is basically a bit like a mix of the Spin Clean or just some anti-static spray in that you wet the record with special fluid, spin it around on a special turntable while it's locked in, and then vacuum dry it. If you're lucky, places nearby may even have a machine. I have a shop where if I buy like $20 worth of stuff they clean a record for me for free or if I want, it's $1 a record to get cleaned and the results are amazing.

Hope that helps!

Speaker amplification:

• Stereo Recevier: Cambridge Audio Topaz SR10v2 $399 $135. Has a great built in phono preamp, possibly a $100+ value. Manufacturer refurbished with a one year warranty. May have a scratch or small dent that does not affect the performance. Or PIONEER SX-10AE $149.99 $119.99. Manufacturer refurbished with a one year warranty. As good as or like new, may have never left the factory.
  
• AV Recevier for better TV sound as well as turntable: Denon AVR-X1500H 7.2 $599 $299. 4K HDMI switching, Audyssey MultEQ XT room correction EQ speaker setup, HEOs WiFi networking and streaming, smartphone app remote and Amazon Alexa voice control.
  
  Larger speakers:
  
  
• Closeout DCM TP160 by MTX Audio $249 $85 pair or black $109. Review by u/DieselWang and Video Review.
  
• Or the tower version and you don't need to build or spend $65+ on speaker stands, DCM TP260 2-Way by MTX Audio $399 $149 pair.
  
  Speaker wire:
  
  
• Pure Copper Oxygen Free Speaker Wire then 4 Ways to Strip Wire. Optionally add banana plugs.
  
• Already with banana plugs AmazonBasics, Crutchfield, DFWCableConnection, Blue Jeans Speaker Cable and Blue Jeans at Amazon.
  
  Bookshelf (misnomer) speaker stands:
  
  
• Dayton Audio SSMB24 or Monoprice Glass.
  
• Sturdy Monolith by Monoprice Speaker Stands. DIY Custom Speaker Stands.
  
  Speaker Placement: Stereo Music Listening and Home Theater.
  
  Subwoofer:
  
  
• Low budget on sale: 12" Infinity Primus PS312 $499 $199. Value of around $300 compared to better $400+ options.
  
  Add WiFi streaming to any recevier without it:
  
  
• Dayton Audio WBA31 $42 + shipping, has app based WiFi streaming, Apple Airplay, DNLA and NAS compatibility and also Bluetooth as a backup.
  
• Chromecast Audio $38 shipped from the UK.
  
• Or an Alexa Dot or Input for voice control and it also has Bluetooth as a backup.
  
  Cleaning:
  
  
• If not getting a Spin-Clean machine or similar lower cost clone, try DIY cleaning: How to clean vinyl records and make your own cleaning solution • Best way to clean your vinyl records. It is also the most economical! • DIY record cleaning • How to clean Vinyl • Wet and Vacuum Clean a Record On the Cheap. After drying, place your vinyl in new anti-static inner sleeves.
  
• Stylus: A stylus brush back to front, ONZOW ZeroDust, or a magic eraser.
  
  Guides:
  
  Home Audio: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/audiophile Guide to Home Audio • Introduction to Audio Components • What is a Phono Preamp? | Audio Advice • How to Connect a Turntable to a Receiver
  
  Home Audio and Home Theater: r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • TV vertically centered at eye level while seated • r/hometheater
  
  Also check out r/BudgetAudiophile.

Here are my tips:

1. Get some sort of record cleaning device. Could be a Spin Clean, could be a Squeaky Clean, or something more expensive than that. But get something. Once you have it, make sure you wet clean your records within a week or two of getting them. They'll sound better and it's worth it.
   
   
2. Now that you've cleaned your new or used record, why not put it into a nice anti-static sleeve. I'm a sucker for the MoFi sleeves, but just find something that works for you. If you're wondering why you'd want to spend another $20 right now it ends up being $.40 per record.
   
   
3. And once you've put that record in a nice anti-static sleeve you should put the whole thing into a nice poly outer sleeve to protect the jacket. Again, you can get a bundle of these (30 or so) for $5 at your local record store or find any number of places online. But the point is that if you're going to spend $15 - $30 for a new LP it's probably worth an extra $.50 total to protect it. People do things differently, but I put the jacket in the outer sleeve and plop the record in the anti-static sleeve inside the outer sleeve behind the jacket.
   
   Store those well-protected records vertically and out of the sunlight and you should be good to go.

1. I'm guessing that the sub filter is designed to be used if you don't have a sub -- i.e. prevent your speakers from blowing out by removing some of the low end of the signal.
   
   
2. Looking online, it looks like these are rated at 50W per channel at 8 ohms. You can find a pair of Polk bookshelf speakers on amazon for $90. Your budget of $500 gives you some pretty great flexibility in what you could buy. I like AudioEngine's gear (example), but it's really up to you.
   
   
3. Don't drop it, get some contact cleaner if any of the knobs are sticky or cause static when you turn them.
   
   
4. An antenna would definitely help. Get a cheap one off of amazon and it should make a difference. You shouldn't need anything fancy.
   
   
5. Have fun!

1 - No, not really. Watch out for the tip of the pickguard and don't over tighten the screws or you can crack it, but that's kind of a general thing. The pickup should have a brass plate soldered into the ground connection beneath it, be careful if you pull the pickup out that you don't pull the wires off of the pickup bobbin, the shield can stick to the body pretty strongly. The foam under the pickups can get compressed a lot with age so if you need to raise the height just add some new foam.

2 - I'm assuming from this that it's a rosewood board? Don't go too crazy. There's a good piece from premier guitar here on cleaning rosewood boards. If it's a maple board it should be poly coated and should clean up with some polish.

3 - The truss rod adjustment is at the heel of the neck.

4 - Deoxit, sprayed into the mechanism. You'll have to remove the pickguard or at least lift it on the control cavity end to get at the pot, spray it into the gap between the lugs and the body. Just a little will do. Run the pot back and forth a bunch to clean any oxidation off of the wafer.

Edit to add - if you do have to replace any parts keep the originals.

I have found the best way of cleaning my vinyl is with the Spin-Clean. At first I was skeptical about buying a piece of plastic at what seems to be a pretty high price. I figured I would give it a try and if it did not work I would just send it back. The Spin-Clean worked very well to my surprise. All my new and used albums gets cleaned by the Spin-Clean before it hits my turntable.

It is almost like a bath for records. The tub holds the water and the cleaning solution. The record is then spun on two rollers between two nice and tight velvet pads. The pads are just like the velvet cleaning brushes people are recommending. So when you are spinning the record in the tub both side are getting cleaned at the same time.

You would think that the record would get even more dirty by putting it in a tub of dirty water. The special formula cleaning solution binds to the dirt and sinks it to the bottom. They say that you can clean about 50 records with each tub. I find this not to be accurate, (I buy alot of used records that are dirty as sin) I get about 20-30 albums cleaned before I have to switch out the water. The solution goes a long way. You only need 3 cap fulls for each bath. I just bought a new replacement bottle (32ozs) of cleaner and it states only use one cap full for cleaning. That stuff is going to last forever.

I have tested albums by listening to them before and after and you can hear a major difference. I would 100% recommend this to any collector.

Not sure what is making yours pop, but a Spin Clean record cleaner is handy to have, either way. Especially if you are buying used vinyl. There are DIY solutions out there, too, but this works really good if you have the budget. Cleaned up a lot of records I had that looked perfect, but still had some pops. Also, something to remove the static helps. I use anti-static sleeves.

For your standard light dust removal I love the classic discwasher like this one. RCA has since bought out discwasher and uses a different tan color material on the bottom which doesn't work nearly as well as the old black felt. If you want to clean records that have actual buildup on them you could look into a record cleaning machine, but those can get pretty pricey. There are some DIY was to clean off record that you could look into too.

As far as damage goes, you're mostly looking for scuffs and scratches. If there's a scratch on a record you can usually tell how bad it it if it crosses an area of deadwax, like the small lines between songs. If the scratch doesn't show up on the dead wax, then it likely won't affect playback too much. It can be hard to tell by just looking at records. i have some that look pretty beat up, but play well and some that look pristine, but have places where they skip. If you can listen at the store before you buy that's the best way to judge.

A good way (not the best, but easy and affordable) is with a Spin Clean. I’ve returned quite a few mold-covered records from the dead with mine. https://www.amazon.com/Spin-Clean-Record-Washer-MKII-Complete/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Spin+clean&qid=1570374947&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A2LY9PGKPA6CIT&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVVpMWkRGUkdYMjVJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODcwNzUxMUI4TFM2TTA3NlZSWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTU5MTIzQ1NGQjZWNVo5TkdXJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I’ve heard that vacuum-based cleaners are better, and I’ll believe it, but for now I’ve been really impressed with the Spin Clean, especially for under $100.

Hi, first time poster here. I'm about to pull the trigger on my first turntable setup, but I feel I need to check in with the helpful people on this sub with the equipment I'm thinking of buying and whether or not its all compatible. Other things like isolation pads for the speakers, better record sleeves, a cork matt, a record brush, gram scale, and a cleaning kit are accounted for. Are any of those things unnecessary?

The following is strictly the hardware. I've been torn between two different set-ups however.

SET-UP 1: Audio Technica AT-LP120 ($299) & the Micca PB42X Powered Bookshelf Speakers ($120). TOTAL: About $419

SET-UP 2: Audio Technica AT-LP120 ($299), Micca MB42 Passive Speakers ($60), and the Yamaha R-S201BL 2-Channel Stereo Receiver ($130) TOTAL: About $489

I'm also unsure about adding a subwoofer for I don't know if one is essential or just a nice thing to include for the complete package. My eye is on this one: Pioneer SW-8MK2 100-Watt Powered Subwoofer ($160)

Any and all advice is much appreciated.

As an aside, if you don't already have a can of Deoxit or a similar product, now would be a good time. You use it to clean your switch and pots. It will lubricate and clean them and get them all moving properly and quietly. Its very easy to do.

That being said...Have you contacted the sales person and asked them directly if it was a floor model or B-stock? No one else can answer that for you. Does your invoice say anything regarding the status of the guitar (new/used/bstock) Most places that sell online that fit your description absolutely care about this kind of thing. Maybe you got the discount due to it being open box. If PRS has a serial # option on their site, you could find out what year your guitar was made, maybe its a previous year model.

I use a Spin Clean (http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU). It works pretty darn well.

If it's super dirty, I wipe what I can off first, then I put it in the spin clean, rotate it 3 full times in one direction, 3 full times in the other. Then the trick is getting the water off.

I have a large stack of microfibre cloths (http://www.amazon.com/12-pack-All-purpose-Microfiber-Cleaning-Dusting) that I swap out after every couple records. I put one cloth down on top of a 'lazy susan' (it is circular and spins freely) and lay the wet record on top of the cloth. Then I use another cloth and press it down against the record and spin the lazy susan under it, and it picks up the water. (I try to make sure the nap of the cloth is lined up with the grooves). Then I use a second, drier cloth to go over it quickly and get anything left.

It's a fair amount of work but it goes quick once you have the process down, and you end up with nice clean records.

There is a lot of debate about brushes. IME, the bottom line is that a discwasher type brush or a carbon fiber one isn't really going to "clean" records. It merely helps remove debris that is on the very surface of the record.

I have found this carbon fiber brush to work pretty well for what it is supposed to do, though I've never tried a pricier one like the one you linked:

http://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Styl-Static-Carbon-Record/dp/B00C4UBQ2U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417991664&sr=8-2&keywords=vinyl+styl

Whatever CF brush you get, make sure you use it correctly. There are videos on youtube.

If you really need to "clean" records, get a Spin Clean or RCM, the brush won't do that.

You don't have to spend hundreds of dollars on a machine to clean your records. I'm sure your other purchases would love a good cleaning as well.

Here's some affordable cleaning setups:

• official Spin Clean
  
• $40 clone
  
• DIY route (photo album deleted)

That's a good way to get a deep clean but for the maintenance everyone that spins vinyl should have one of these. I usually run my wax through it every few plays and dry them off with a microfiber cloth. I was told once that it was like cleaning your glasses, if you never clean your vinyl it's like never cleaning your glasses. Totally worth the buy to maximize your audio experience.

http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406746303&sr=8-1&keywords=spin+vinyl

1. Keep them stacked vertically like so:
   https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3610/3603521573_d308f3b61c.jpg
   
   Keep them out of direct sunlight for long times as well.
   
   If you want to protect the cases, check this out:
   
   http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Record-Outer-Sleeves-/370832311308?pt=US_Music_Mixed_Lots_Other_Formats&var=&hash=item565754040c
   
   2: Cleaning? If you REALLY want to give them the works, you can get them professionally cleaned with a VPI machine but that's expensive, costs around 3$ per record. I'd recommend this:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU
   
   Everything you need to know is in the manual! I also just ordered a VPI machine, by the way, so I'm going to make a post soon on my thoughts.
   
   3: Not really. Just carry them by the edges/inner label, and keep them in their proper jackets when they aren't being used.
   
   4: For #4, see the above comment.
   
   Have a nice day!

If your sister's got a few warped records, a record clamp would certainly be useful. Cork mats OTOH tend to be less staticky than felt so would certainly be useful in dry environments. Should you be leaning towards the record clamp direction, Pro-ject will sell you one. You could also perhaps consider buying other stuff, like record cleaning kits, test records and/or gauges to help her set up her new turntable.

You should always wet wash records you buy, new or used. It will help knock down static and your stylus will last longer.

There is a ton of ways to do it. Some people do a DIY solution with a spray bottle.

I’ve since upgraded but used a spin clean for quite awhile. That or any of it’s clones is a great starting point. I would recommend sticking to their solution as it contains a focculating agent which causes dirt particles to clump together and fall to the bottom.

If you want to clean them, one good cost efficient and practical way is to get a Spin Clean. It's also a good investment for future collecting.

Your best bet will be to use a record cleaner like the Spin-Clean. To save money you can make your own washing fluid from some of the recipes listed here.

VinylStyl is a great and cheap static brush, and there are a few others. I use mine to take care of hair and light dust. If you go any cheaper then that, you may run across a poorly made brush, which can leave bristles or be too rough and damage your records.

Other then that, you may want to pick up some cheap microfiber clothes and a gallon of distilled water. A gentle wash can take care of build-up.

You may need to replace the belt. Look on eBay for a replacement. Is it worth keeping? That’s up to you. Do you like it enough to keep it? Don’t throw the records away. Give them a good wet wash. Also look into the Spin Clean for $80 dollars on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527558951&sr=8-3&keywords=Spin+clean

I love what you've done, but as for cleaning Spin Clean should be number one. Frankly the glue method is ridiculous if you have a lot of records and record cleaning machines are too expensive, too big, too noisy, too maintenance intestive... Spin Clean is the way to go. Cleans as good as any record cleaning machine, costs $80, and is easy to use and put away when not needed.

i would recommend picking up a Spinclean. Great investment, very easy to use, and brings records back to life.

https://www.amazon.ca/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU

nice i do this exact method but i don't use a bivert module i just buy the chips alone and it gives you even more room to work with you just need to be able to solder to the little legs

https://imgur.com/8pswKZR

for the streaks use a clean microfiber cloth and it should leave it spotless, i use these so i can throw them away after each use https://www.amazon.com/Maxell-CD-305-Cleaning-Cloths-Pack/dp/B00006JHSD/

next you'll want to add in a 5v regulator, it will eliminate the contrast flickering you get when you play high power draw games like Pokemon or use a flash cart

https://imgur.com/a/o8ErbQo

I have a mobile fidelity brush that I like a lot (https://www.amazon.com/Mobile-Fidelity-Record-Cleaning-Brush/dp/B000M9H03E), it's pretty basic but works well and can be used dry or wet. I generally use it dry after using another cheap velvet style brush to apply cleaning fluid. If I'm doing a quick pass before playing the album I use one of the carbon fiber style brushes like the one OP posted.

I will use a microfiber cloth to wipe my brushes off when I'm vacuum cleaning a lot of records but I don't like using one on my records directly.

The needle and cartridge might be avaliable, is there a number on either of them? NeedleDoctor helped me find a new cart for a console for a very good price.

Belt's shouldn't be too hard, you could order a few cheap ones online to guess and check.

The nobs themselves are probably okay, you probably need to spray some contact cleaner. Try Deox-it, or search amazon for "contact cleaner" pull the nobs off and spray a good amount in there whilst turning.

If that doesnt help, disassemble and look at the knobs themselves, they're probably just standard potentiometers. You'll have to hunt for them, it's not like theres a source for parts for this thing, you're going to need to work hard yourself to find substitutions and retrofit.

Nothing fancy because I don't have the money or inclination to invest in a vacuum machine right now. I have a bunch of 40 year-old records covered in crud, mold, bong residue, etc. First I lay down a microfiber cloth (like the kind you get at any office supply store) and lay the record on it. I do a quick sweep with a basic antistatic brush. Then I apply either basic record cleaning solution or an enzyme cleaner if it's really funky to a decent record cleaning brush. 3-4 rotations clockwise, 3-4 rotations counterclockwise, then set the record aside on another microfiber cloth to dry (takes maybe 5 minutes). Some people swear by this rolling record cleaner for more routine cleaning/maintenance sessions. I have yet to use one but I may pick one up eventually because it seems pretty convenient.

FYI you can make your own record cleaning solution by mixing 1/3 denatured alcohol to 2/3 distilled water + a drop of dish detergent.

It might have helped, but I wouldn't do it again, at least not on an important record. (Not that Solitude Standing isn't important, it's a great album.)

get a spin clean -- they work great. On sale now for $60

https://www.amazon.com/Spin-Clean-Record-Washer-MKII-Complete/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1542917761

I'm sure it works well, but the price is just ridiculous. I have a feeling it would be a much better investment to buy a Spin Clean for $80.

Record cleaning machine would be a good investment for your budget. http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU
Assuming your cartridge is aligned properly and the tracking force is set correctly, the distortion you hear is likely from dirty or wore out records. Upgrading the stylus on your cartridge would likely be a good, cheap improvement as well.

A spin clean is safer, designed for records, and relatively inexpensive, even if purchased new. I used one for years before investing in a VPI and it worked great.

It's the [Spin Clean] (http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408325976&sr=8-1&keywords=spin+clean). Works pretty well overall, though I've been suspicious of the cleaning solution adding very light surface noise to records. Residue possibly, despite the company's claims otherwise. I'm currently modding a shop vac and crevice tool to use to vacuum clean the records.

you are going to go through a few styli

giving the condition of the grooves

hopefully you make enough to replace them and break even


as far as making them sound less gruesome, a spin-clean would help
greatly (the most affordable option)

http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1374106342&sr=8-2&keywords=record+cleaner

Gently run your finger over the area where the popping occurs. Look very closely at that area on the grooves as well. I find a lot of the time if there are only one or two pops on an album, it's due to some sort of debris big enough to see or feel stuck in the grooves.

Glue cleaning is great but practice a few times on a record you don't care about first.

I typically clean pop causing debris off with a Mobile Fidelity brush and their cleaner, then dry with a microfiber cloth.

It's a cleaning tool. You put distilled water and solution in the base, the record vertically between two brushes and half submerged in the water, then spin it to clean it. It gets the dust and dirt out of the grooves very well. It's a little pricey but there are cheaper knock offs that are just as good. The anti static brush will get static and dust off the surface of records when you play them.

Ok this my or may not work, but it's how people fixed mis-firing buttons on Rane 57s (the 2!d and 3rd edition had issues with the buttons due to regulatory changes in construction materials or something).

First, grab a can of deoxit spray - should be able to get one in your local radio shack.

Now the hard part - you'll have to take apart your controller (note - don't do this if you're still under warranty - if you are, send it back to get repaired). Once you get the top off, remove the buttons if you can and find the trigger for the button underneath the rubber/plastic. I have no idea what it would look like, but there should be able to spray into the trigger. Work the spray around the trigger and then let the whole thing dry for a couple of hours.

Put the whole thing back together and see if that helps.

I would recommend a real electronics contact cleaner, such as DeOxit: https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

Definitely get the 5%, the 100% is meant to be used in more bulk/professional environments.

I personally recommend getting a Spin-Clean. Kit costs about a $100 and works well. The cloths that come with it can be washed and don't leave fibers on your records.

Amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1458228206&sr=1-1&keywords=spin+clean

I don’t think anything does a better job than the Audio Technica stylus cleaner.

Audio Technica Stylus Cleaner AT607 Stylus Cleaning Formula https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008B5DP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UKZ2Cb5M7X5J1

I recommend either replacing the buttons with a soldering iron or spraying some Deoxit into them and pressing on them a bunch of times.

I've fixed countless GBA SP and DS Lite shoulder buttons with the help of Deoxit.

The spin clean is probably the best entry-level kit out there

First, make sure you only use distilled water. Nothing out of the tap. Also, only use microfiber clothes on your records. If you don't have any, they are usually only a few bucks on Amazon or at Walmart.

There are a few options:

• Make a DIY cleaning solution, there are tons of options out there if you google it or search /r/vinyl, usually it's water, a tiny bit of alcohol, and maybe a drop or two of dawn, sometime tergitol if you can pick it up.
  
  
• You can buy or make a vacuum wand to clean the DIY solution off your records. Here's one on Amazon, but I've met a few people who have made their own versions for a few bucks.
  
  
• I know you don't want to spend much money but I do have to mention that for $80 you can get a Spin Clean, it's very simple to use and mostly effective, but not as much a use a vacuum cleaner.
  
  
• There is a wood glue method for cleaning very dirty records that some people swear by. I have never used it but there are some videos on youtube explaining the method.
  
  

Unfortunately, disc cleaning great ain't cheap. For so many records to do at once, with them being so rough, this thing is the only way to go. Then get a groove washer with some g2 for light cleaning before each play. Try this out.....
Spin-Clean Record Washer MKII Complete Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YXslDb39F0JD8

DeOxit is popular among vintage home audio collectors, however I'd guess that a pot in a car audio amp is not quite vintage enough to have exposed wipers. I'd replace it, personally.

A desoldering pump/wick is highly recommended.

I would avoid anything that can come apart and place lint on the record (as in q-tips/cotton balls). Instead, consider one of these or these. Microfiber cloth can also work well.

If you feel the need to use liquid, either search online (or on /r/vinyl) for good homemade record cleaning solutions or consider buying some. Do not use straight alcohol or non-filtered (distilled) water.

Some folks really like this as well. It's more for deeper cleaning than you may be looking for. I almost bought one, but read some not so nice reviews about it and opted to hold off.

25% Off Spin Clean and accessories.

Also the same price on Amazon.


Deluxe and Limited Edition are also on sale on Amazon.


I use this thing on old records and brand new records and it’s amazing how much dirt are on some of the new records.

pot = short for potentiometer, of which the volume is one. If you get a lot of dust in it, you'll hear popping and crackling as you spin it. Deoxit is a cleaner for electrical connections (such as the ones inside a pot): https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

I'm a little confused about your speaker setup. Most all stereo receivers have either one pair, or two pairs of speaker hookups.

Surround sound systems will have a lot more, but that's for surround sound--not necessarily multiple stereo setups.

So, do you have 8 speakers? How are you planning on usin g8 speakers?

Anything you buy new for $12 or at Wal-Mart will likely pale in comparison to a nice vintage receiver.

This is the one I was recommended and bought. It does a really nice job if you follow the instructions.

My dad had one of these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00001TPX8

Was amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/Spin-Clean-Record-Washer-MKII-Complete/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=record+cleaner&qid=1564280275&s=gateway&sprefix=record+c&sr=8-4

Is this the one you’re referring to? If so how have you liked it? Any thoughts?

This one has worked fine for me: http://www.amazon.co.uk/AM25104-Carbon-cleaning-records-removing/dp/B000BFXJ7U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405781396&sr=8-1&keywords=record+brush+am

But you can probably get some better and/or fancier other places online.

I think the blades can run off two plugs if the boards are still operational, but if there is an electrical problem then I'm not sure I'd want to risk burning down the house. You can also look into getting Deox-it and trying to clean the burnt stuff off the connectors. I had a similar situation with the PSU inside a S4 and the Deox-it did the trick.

I'd be very careful though because there is something very wrong with the connections if something like that happened. Check each have plug individually to male sure they are all solid and ensure there is a proper breaker somewhere on the circuit you're using.

There's also the Spin Clean. As much as I want a machine, I can't bring myself to spend the money on one. That Amazon links tells me I bought it Christmas Eve 2010 and I've cleaned hundreds of records with it. And I'm still using the original brushes.

Get some DeOxit, open the unit and go through each switch one by one and give them a cleaning. You want to spray DeOxit into the switch, and then turn it all the way back and forth about fifty times. I'll bet the Marantz works a lot better after that.

Some of this stuff will take care of the scratchy knobs.

Wiring diagram: http://guzzitek.org/schemas_electriques/pb/750/V7Racer_Special_Stone_WiringDiagram.pdf

I would start at the headlight and check each connection, relay and fuse. Pull the fuses, separate the connections and spray them with contact cleaner. I like this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=CAIG+DeoxIT+5%25+Spray+Contact+Cleaner&qid=1554688230&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I have a two parter:

1.) I currently have this brush for wiping up albums before i play them. Would this one be a good upgrade? I've noticed the one i have now doesn't really do a great job so anymore i just use some generic yellow record cleaning cloths to clean them a bit before use to get dust off. Should i stick to the cloths or is this h worth getting?

2.) I have a bit of a problem with my PJ Essential II. Once the cart reaches the end of a side and it starts riding the loop thingy, its slides off and scraped across the label of the lp. This has already happened about twice now; first time i took it as a freak accident, second ive been much more careful and now stand waiting once a side ends to pick up and return the tonearm. I noticed theres not really anything stopping the arm from sliding off the little mechanism that it rests on when you lift the lever up and down. Any thing I can do to prevent this from happening or should i just always be ready to pick up the arm as soon as a side ends?

Sounds like it's point 2: back in the day, I used to have a monthly task of visiting all the Macs in a localtalk network and running a head cleaning disk through them. Looks like a floppy with the shutter removed, and a white disc inside instead of the regular black magnetic film. You put 3 drops of isopropyl alcohol on the exposed disk surface, then inset it in the slot. It'll attempt to read, and eventually eject the disk. Sometimes a Mac would need the iso treatment 3 times before all the gunk was fully cleaned off the read head.

After that, the problem you're describing almost always went away. Every once in a while, there'd be an actual drive failure, at which point the easiest thing to do was replace the drive. Repair should be possible, but not easy, as you're not likely to find replacement components any easier than you'd find a replacement functional drive.

[edit] https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-Acc-6000-Floppy-Cleaning/dp/B0028B7138

Thanks! also would this be good for a very deep clean when I bring records home that are extremely dirty or is there something else i should get/do?

http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t

Just buy a carbon fibre stylus cleaning brush. Very cheap, and it will last a lifetime.

Even better, get this

Which method/tool for cleaning is better out of the following two options:

Vinyl Vac

Spin Clean

I keep hearing good things about the Spin-clean. There are multiple videos about how to use it correctly.

I use Spin-Clean to clean my records, and I use an anti-static brush on them to remove any loose dust prior to dropping a needle on the record each play.

This for a deep clean and this for getting dust off right before you play it

Heres what we use to clean audio patch panels... spray it on move the jack in and out about a dozen times wipe excess with a cloth.
https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

It sounds as if you got a dirty floppy drive that can't read the disks correctly.

I don't know if they still sell floppy disk cleaners, it looks like a floppy disk and has a foam disk in it that you put cleaning solution on it and try to read that disk and it cleans the floppy heads.

Let me check Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-Acc-6000-Floppy-Cleaning/dp/B0028B7138

A third party seller most likely because they don't make them anymore.

Even if you had a CD-ROM the floppy drive couldn't boot a floppy disk to load it if it is dirty.

I had a bunch of records with mold on 'em and it cleanded off easily with a Spin-Clean.

iKlear or similar products work very well.

I'm a fan of using the [Osage Audio Listener Select] (http://www.osageaudio.com/select.htm) brushes for cleaning fluid, and a Mofi brush for a wet rinse with distilled water.

In all seriousness though, cleaning records is hard. The groves are tiny and the dust is wedged in there and doesn't come out easy. Sometimes the groove is damaged and the record is just hosed.

I guess the question is what are you trying to achieve? Are you cleaning records before every play because you feel you should? Do they sound fine already? If so leave it alone. There's countless screwed up records out there that would have been fine if someone had just left the damn thing alone.

If they're crackly and sound like ass then yes cleaning them might be worthwhile.

The cleaning machine I linked to (mostly as a joke) is probably as best as you are going to find. There's a guy at the record fair I go to who has one of these and I've ran a few records through it. It works well and makes a noticeable difference to the sound of the record.

There's other record cleaning machines that are essentially a wet and dry vacuum cleaner. They do a good job of getting the gunk out. Problem is they cost anywhere from $300 to $4000 for that ultrasonic cleaner I linked to.

There's cheaper options such as a spin clean that apparently does an ok job, but I've never used it.

Another option is Record Revirginizer. I've used this and gotten some good results. Problem is that it's expensive.

The reason all the methods are "wrong" as you state ,is because everyone has an opinion and no one has any proof.

How many times a day have you seen, "I just spilled Xxxxx on my keyboard ZOMG what do I do"?

http://www.reddit.com/r/keyboards/comments/wqotj/my_rosewill_mechanical_keyboard_broke_after_one/

I assume you already have some canned air.

You need THIS as well.
http://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

I have a can of this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Record-Cleaner-for-Vinyl-Records/dp/B0015C0YYY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1468776743&sr=8-7&keywords=record+cleaner

And one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/eBoot-Velvet-Cleaning-Records-Stylus/dp/B01ARLQWIU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1468776743&sr=8-6&keywords=record+cleaner

I use the spray if a record is looking particularly dusty and/or I haven't played it in a while - otherwise I just try and give them all a quick brush before and after playing. If anyone wants to tell me why this is a good/bad system I'm all ears!

ALSO TIP: If you're just starting your collection, and you think there's a possibility you may end up with like 3,000 one day, START CLEANING THEM (If they're used) as you go, scrubbing the vinyl for dirt debris, dusting the covers/sleeves, and putting the covers in protective plastic. If that's your thing.


Record Cleaner


Sleeves


Plastic Covers

Edit: Damn. This Record Cleaner used to be like $35-40. Price of vinyl and vinyl accessories has jumped so high in the last few years.

I use Audio Technica's stylus cleaner. The cap is a little brush, and when you brush you go back to front, from behind the needle towards your self.

https://www.amazon.com/Technica-Stylus-Cleaner-Cleaning-Formula/dp/B00008B5DP

https://www.amazon.com/Spin-Clean-Record-Washer-MKII-Complete/dp/B002UKSZUU - $80, which is a bit of cash I suppose.

There are random vinyl cleaning kits and liquids and brushes etc on Amazon too.

Deoxit is an electronic cleaner.

http://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

volume pot needs cleaning for sure. it will probably solve your main problem too.

http://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

open the amp, and try to aim the nozzle to get inside the back of the volume dial, then turn the volume dial forward and backwards many times.

might want to use it on the relay contacts while you at it.

https://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495459699&sr=8-1&keywords=spin+clean

This works and is cheap until you can afford the lowest end wet-vac system. I only use it on used albums and then generally only once. I save up and do about 50 at a time.

I purchased this Brothers in Arms record from eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dire-Straits-Brothers-In-Arms-LP-1985-Warner-Bros-vinyl-record-NICE/274000457122

I played it and it's VERY crackly and noisy. This is not the case with my other records. I can see a lot of surface contamination and my record brush didn't help whatsoever. Is the next step wet cleaning? I was going to order a Boundless Audio Record Cleaning Solution https://www.amazon.com/Boundless-Audio-Record-Cleaning-Solution/dp/B07RRM3QWS/

Invest in a spin-clean

Scarica il manuale di servizio e:

• cambia la cinghia
  
  
• cambia la puntina cercando di capire che mount utilizza
  
  
• verifica che tocchi il disco col peso giusto, questo strumento dovrebbe bastarti
  
  
• verifica che rispetti i 33 e 45 giri per minuto, utilizzando quella scala con le tacche che c'è sul bordo esterno del piatto o uno strobe disc
  
  Altri accessori che ti servono: questo e questo.
  
  Io ci ho restaurato così il mio Technics degli anni '80 e ne è valsa la pena, se però vedi che c'è da spenderci troppo o lavorarci troppo sappi che con 200 euro si compra un giradischi Pro-Ject nuovo di buona qualità.

Curtis Mouse Cleaning kit was one of those "why didn't I think of that" ideas.

Caig DeOxit - for cleaning contacts in your aging electronic devices.

They still have new equipment available (or refurbished).

Floppy Disks

Disk Cleaner

[Floppy Drive] (http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Floppy-Drive-FL-UDRV/dp/B00E9MD700/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Q5S5MVQTPPZB0HKJ6HX)

Article about it

This one?

Is this the kind of thing you're talking about? https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

Here, just use this

I found this one: https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

Source: https://community.ubnt.com/t5/The-Lounge/How-to-clean-contacts-on-ethernet-port/td-p/1638845

So do I need to open up the system to wipe the dust off the disc drive lens unit or can I just use one of these? I tried the latter, but the system was still continuing to malfunction. I eventually got a new Playstation 3, which came today.

Price History

• SPIN-CLEAN STARTER KIT RECORD WASHER SYSTEM Mk2   ^PureLink
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Spin-Clean Record Washer MKII Complete Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ndGPCb3BNM7BX

This one?

Have you tried to DeOxit?

• Price History
  

I use one of these.

Well, you could just get a brush: www.amazon.com/Hunt-Carbon-Fiber-Record-Brush/dp/B001A9ST2G/

Or you could go all out and get a Spin Clean: http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_z

Or a Disc washer: http://www.amazon.com/RCA-RD-1006-Discwasher-Record-System/dp/B000KMZKTO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411660898&sr=1-1&keywords=record+cleaner

There's plenty of options, but at the least I recommend a carbon fiber brush.

Sorry that's not my video, I just found it as an example... I'll clarify my post to update that.

Currently I actually use two brushes (which is definitely overkill...). A mobile fidelity brush for initial fluid spreading, and a KAB disc sweep for agitating

You might be able to combine your two brushes to similar effect

Why would you pay all that money for TritonX100 instead of a real record cleaning fluid made by someone who knows what the fuck they're doing? I don't get it.

Depends on a number of things: anti-skate, tracking force, stylus health, vibrations, etc. What turntable are we using? Also the health of the record itself. If it's just dirty, that can cause skipping, but you'd notice surface noise LONG before skipping became an issue. I'd recommend one of these: http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462806668&sr=8-1&keywords=spin+clean Local record shop uses them, charges like $1 per record you clean. I'm sure they make a killing on that alone.

I use this and it seems to work really well. I don't mean to be a dick about this, I just get annoyed when people not only use a homemade solution with ingredients that aren't the highest quality, but tell everyone else to use it too. I think this is an area that should be left to the experts.

Check out the Record Butler on Amazon: I use this when a 180 gram record is in a thick printed sleeve -- and even though my hands are large enough, I still have difficulty removing the album from the sleeve because it's so tight.

There might still be water under the die, I'd spray it down with some deoxit (a lot of deoxit) then spray the card thoroughly with canned air (make sure you get all of the deoxit out from under the die). Then let it sit for a day, then try it again.

https://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

I'm getting an M3 delivered tomorrow, given to me by a friend who is clearing an estate. I locked down the tone generator and when I did, I started it up. There was a whirring, but no sound and I suspect lack of use is the issue. I have oil on hand - is DeOxit something I should do regardless of whether oiling it starts it up? If so, is this the stuff?

As dumb as this may sound have you tried to find a floppy disk drive cleaner? https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-Acc-6000-Floppy-Cleaning/dp/B0028B7138/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493060920&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5+fdd+cleaner

If it is really dirty, I use the wood glue method. I'll be buying a record washer soon though for more regular cleaning.

My regular cleaning is really just using an Audioquest brush to get any dust off right before I play the record.

As for the stylus, I use a Magic Eraser. I used to have that dust ball problem until I started using the brush. So stylus cleaning doesn't happen as often as it once did.

Here's some links:

Brush

Record washer

Magic Eraser

So I'm assuming this one isn't a good choice, then?


https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B01ARLQWIU/


I liked it because it has a stylus brush already, bit it seems to be velvet, not carbon. Should I just get this and stop worrying, then? https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00AJJJNLE/ I'm quite worried with all the reviews on the AudioQuest that say it damages records and sheds.

None. You'll strip off the tinning, expose the bare copper and make the oxidation problem even worse.

I'd suggest a pencil eraser or Caig Deoxit.

I should also note that if you're record player isn't grounded it can cause static as well. But if your concern is the actual records, my advice would be to either buy a spin Clean or some other cleaning kit, and proper storage with anti-static sleeves.

Above all else, you have to realize that most records are NOT that fragile. They can take a pretty heavy beating. We do tend to discourage that and keep everything in pristine condition here because it's just bad form, but they wont be as easily damaged by light scratches as some would have you believe.

Indeed, minus some great luck, finding a killer vintage bargain is much easier said than done these days. $300 is still the vintage money to be comparing, since the Ortofon 2M Blue is going to cost north of $200 and anything vintage is likely to need at least a new stylus. The RT85 is a true bargain, considering you get a Stereophile Recommended cart with a nude elliptical stylus. That's really tough to beat.

I know the Vanatoo T1s with their PR design and agree you're in good shape for now in a moderately sized room. If you want to upgrade the system later, you can of course, but if you go this route you'll likely be set for good turntable-wise.

Edit: One thing I'd add is a Spin-Clean record washing system. I've been in plenty of forum brawls over this vs. an RCM record cleaning machine, but to my experience it does as good of a job. Many years ago I had a VPI HW-16.0 and hated the noise, the dog hated the noise, and it was a pain in the ass to use. The Spin-Clean allows easier batch cleaning since there's no overheating (which caused me to lose the VPI), liquid leaks, etc. I made the "downgrade" around ten years ago and have never looked back.

Not just the connections can be a problem, but the switch its self can develop invisible corrosion on the contacts that will keep it from making connection. They make a great contact cleaner for just this sort of thing (it's not cheap, but it really does its job well):

https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G

This is all so much easier to trouble shoot if you have a (cheap) multimeter, and know how to us it to read resistance. Meters can be had for less than $10, and it really isn't hard to use for this sort of trouble shooting. It could tell you almost immediately if there's really a problem with your pickup (which is a rare, but not unheard-of thing to happen).

Your diagram is so well done that it indicates that you have all the potential that anyone needs to be walked-through trouble shooting this sort of problem. Get a meter, and I'd be happy to help you trouble-shoot this problem.