Reddit mentions: The best automotive clips

See my above reply to another comment for the headlight.

As for sanding and painting,

First thing was removing the body. That took forever. I had to figure out how to get every panel off and the tail was difficult. The most important thing is keeping track of where every screw, bolt and nut went. Write all of that down and take pictures as you go. Putting back together will be almost impossible without keeping track of where to screw things into. Taking it apart will make sense as you go.

Buy a bag of rivets tho so you don’t care when you break them like I did.

GZYF 100Pcs 8mm Push Type Nylon... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DYN4L1G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I did not remove the gas tank. I unscrewed the top 2 bolts near the dash so I could lift it up and put a large towel underneath it. I covered every part of the bike around the gas tank so I didn’t get paint on anything I didn’t want to. I used towels I didn’t care about so I could just throw them away when I was done.

Do not do this outside by the way. Dirt and bugs will get in your way when you end up painting. Also direct sunlight will be bad for the paint when it is drying.

So I bought a cheap plastic shower curtain to lay down in my back room of the house so I could put all of the pieces I took off the bike on a safe surface that could be thrown away when done and had room to walk around all the pieces. Use a room that can be ventilated or has windows at least.

Sanding is the first part. I don’t remember the exact grades I had but I had a course, a fine and a super fine grade.

Course is to get the paint off and help any deep scratches. I did 2 runs of course for every piece and the gas tank. Wipe down all the pieces with a microfiber cloth after every run through of sanding. I had a sander to help and hand sanded for hard to get angles.

Then I did 1 run on every piece with fine grade after words to smooth things out.

Buy a can or 2 of scratch filler. I don’t have a link since I bought it local but you should be able to find some at any auto store.

I did 2 runs of scratch filler for any bad scratches still left over for every piece and gas tank whiledoing 1 run of fine and then super fine after each run of scratch filler.

If you need to do more runs that’s fine. You just need to end up filling the scratches and having a smooth surface with most of the paint off. I have read that you don’t need to get all the way down to the metal which I didn’t.

Painting is the hard part because spray paint fucks up easy. I didn’t have a nice spray gun so I just made super to not start my sprays directly on my pieces. I either started below or above them and just did small strokes of sprays across until I had covered the whole piece or gas tank. Sand between each paint run with super fine to help prevent imperfections. You can do as many runs as you want But I used 2 cans of semi gloss black all together. There are YouTube’s videos on good spray painting techniques. I waited 3 hours after painting to sand but I don’t know if that is the recommended wait time.

After the painting is clearcoat. Get a good clearcoat that prevents sun damage and paint damage and rust if possible. I bought this local as well so no links. I did maybe 2 runs of clearcoat to finish and waited 2 hours between each clearcoat run.

Then it just needed to be put back together.

Let me know if all of that makes sense. I can try to go into more detail if need be.

You could probably use something like a christmas tree fastener, or plastic rivets. There are push type plastic rivets and ones that require a special riveting tool to use. I know early 2000's on Chrysler loves using plastic rivets. My old 97 grand prix had some of the christmas tree fasteners holding plastic parts to metal similarly to that, so that would be my first guess.

Edit: looks like they might use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-Universal-Fender-Retainers-Diameter/dp/B0093RRSXS Those are like the push pin styled rivets I was talking about. Scrolling down in the QA section, it looks like they fit an 10 splash shield. You'd want to measure the hole size and get the appropriate sized fastener.

I've picked up allot of parts on amazon for cheap. The nice thing about amazon, is if you set your car model/type/year it tells you if the part is compatible or not.

You can for instance go to side mirrors, click filter, and get results. Lots of people sport them without even bother painting them.

To install a replacement bumper your going to have to take the tire wells liners out. I really recommend, getting replacement support pins. Because your going to break some, some won't snap back in right. extra.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BEB4EEC

You could use a screw driver to pop the support pints out. But it's allot easier, and faster if you get a Clip Plier & Fastener Remover

If the bumper is already loose on the left or right side. You'll probable need new left & right bumper clips.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7XWAF6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7XVUOI

Sense your taking out the tire well liners, you might just want to replace them. They're like 26 bucks for both.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009DJT67W

If you check under the bumper, you'll probable find the flaps on the tire well liners have ripped off the bumper. (this happens because people scrape underside of the bumper while parking)

I have a q50 so the part could be different but on my car they are held on with the plastic push anchor things- black "washer" with insertable portion and a center part that expands the washer and is removed with a flat head.
They are all over the car, for a temporary fix I'd check the engine bay over your radiator area, there should be about a million of them holding the ram-air-box-cover-majigger in place. also probably some in your trunk.
This is them but I'd be willing to bet a dealer will replace it for free.

Edit: pretty sure it's Part No. 01553-2DR9A but it'll set you back a pretty penny- 11 of them to be exact, haha

Super easy to install once you get it but you may need new clips to hold the new hotness in place. Buy new clips and the new grill. Pop old clips with a small screw driver and yank the shit out of the old grill until it comes off. Put new clips/grill on. There’s guides on t4r on all of this too. You’ll be fine...no need to pay a body shop. It really is easy even if you aren’t at all mechanical.

Clips:

Toyota 90467-12040 Tacoma, RAV4, 4Runner, Grille Clips OEM, Set of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016FEWDKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MPSYBbTCB4DYQ

That's perfect! I had just been throwing my 50's in the garbage. Now I can save them and spend them on important things... like chrome truck nutz!

you might be able to find a suitable replacement at your local hardware store. online is probably an option as well. not sure what they look like, but something like this or like this I imagine.

going through the dealer will almost definitely cost more.

uxcell 30 Pcs 8mm Hole Black Plastic Rivet Fastener Bumper Clip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJU673S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_CFm1UTXvcFX9y

These are the ones I bought and used. Worked like a charm and great quality. They will work on the bumper cover, wheel well inserts and under hood trim.

If you don't have the tool, put a flat head screw driver under the brim of the circle between it and the ring. There's notches along the ring where it's easier to slip a flathead under. Pry the circle away from the ring (it's like a fat pin), when it pops out the whole unit can be pulled out of the hole.

To reinstall, while ensuring both parts of the panel/splash guard are aligned and together, push the clip in and secure by reinserting the 'pin'.

This is what it looks like: https://www.amazon.com/EZYKOO-Universal-Fastener-Retainer-Replacement/dp/B07HD1BZ3X/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=car+body+clip+honda&qid=1555095296&s=gateway&sr=8-4

It's clips and screws that are all accessible without removing anything extra. You'll probably want to go ahead and buy some replacement push clips. They're used all over and will break on their own and about every time you remove one in my experience. I bought a bunch of these and they're pretty robust. QMET CT-01-0001F

www.fitfreak.net is a decent place for general info. I've seen videos. It's easier than the front bumper for sure.

I know you're on a strict budget, this axiom rack will fit. See if you can find it locally before ordering online as delivery to the Netherlands will be an extra tenner.


As to your bonus question:
The steel bolt is a much harder metal than the aluminium frame.
Somebody has overtightened the bolt, and stripped the threads off the bolt-hole in the frame. It is repairable using a helicoil insert, but you don't have the tools to do it at home, and I know you don't want to give the bike shop any more of your money!

Use a p-clip instead. You can buy them in any good hardware stores, but measure the diameter of your seat-stay first. Your seat stay is probably 16mm diameter, it doesn't have to be an exact measurement, the closest mm will do.

Plastic Rivets, or sometimes trim panel rivets.

That's the generic name for this type of fastening device, to find the specific kind you need might be more difficult, but luckily their sold in variety packs as well.

I appreciate all the responses y'all. I realized I can just buy these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H89Q71Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PesYDbB01ZZ9S from one of the comments here and then just easily screw into those. Thanks y'all.

Yeah. Sometimes they look like these, https://www.amazon.com/Chrysler-Push-Retainers-Clips-6503598/dp/B009D3APUA

Also Chrysler sometimes put these on to secure skid plates. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-autograde-metal-splash-shield-hardware-66000/11224128-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=11224128-P&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=online&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlueK0_Kg4wIV1BZ9Ch0KkQNZEAQYAiABEgKd7_D_BwE

Pretty sure this is the pin. Do you slip the dike in and then kind of pry it from the rest of the pin?

Pretty sure is used these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016DCAWNI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_YWhszb25EP7S0

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076BMVZ8R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Added some bull bars to the front and back of my 2010 X Premium and broke a few of those suckers off myself, 8.99 on Amazon and you're all set! This mix and match set is perfect since you're not sure exactly what size you need

Enjoy bud :)

I'm on my phone, so what I looked at might not be what you meant for me to look at, but when you said you wanted to print on your 3d printer looks like standard pieces that normally hold on a door inner panel to the metal door. I'll add a pic if I can find it. Please correct me if I'm wrong. But other than that I agree with everyone else and say make a wooden ring around the speaker, and mount that to the door, and mount the speaker to the wood. You could also go with fiber glass but you have to have experience with it so you don't have a hollow sound.

Found what I think you're planning on 3d printing on Amazon

You can order these on amazon in plastic clip packs. Nothing special. Something like this: Uolor 620 Pcs Car Retainer Clips & Plastic Fasteners Kit Fender Rivet Clips, 16 Most Popular Sizes Auto Push Pin Rivets Kit for GM Ford Toyota Honda Chrysle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V4381FG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ltOzDb2AZXNN6

Also, come join us at http://delicaforum.com/index.php

Get a bag of these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009QVJMAI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526043194&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=vw+door+clips

You're going to get really good at taking the doors apart. Get a tube of 5 minute epoxy to fix all the brittle old plastic which is going to disintegrate in your hands.

uxcell 30 Pcs 8mm Hole Black Plastic Rivet Fastener Bumper Clip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJU673S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_863VzbN024PSV

Prime one day $5 I have 3 Infinitis lol

I couldn't find it on the Subaru parts site for sure, so I think I'll go with this https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-102pcs-Fasteners-Expansion-Replacement/dp/B076BMVZ8R/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=splash+guard+push+rivet&qid=1563109144&s=automotive&sr=1-3#customerReviews.

Yeah, I would just buy them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BMVZ8R/ref=psdc_15709311_t3_B07KTWWY6N

Amazon you can also hit the parts counter at your local dealership and pay a little more for them.

Sometimes you can get other ones to fit but it needs to fit both the door card and the door side properly or it will just rattle. Depending on how many you're missing though you can usually get away without using all of them.

amazon has some too

http://www.amazon.com/Clipsandfasteners-Inc-Subaru-Bumper-Engine/dp/B00588T81Q


http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Front-Bumper-Quarter-Push-Type/dp/B005IC2SNW

Rivets - Ginsco 102pcs 6.3mm 8mm 9mm 10mm Nylon Bumper Push Fasteners Rivet Clips Expansion Screws Replacement Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BMVZ8R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_aEMXCb5GHH8S3

Trim removal tools (good to have) - KINGLAKE 4Pcs Auto Door Clip Panel Trim Removal Tool Kits for Car Dash Radio Audio Installer Pry Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNMLQAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_LEMXCbFPMGXH9

As for the rivets I ended up replacing the “permanent” ones with the skinniest ones in the linked set. In the future I can reuse these if I want to.

Here's a decent video on removing the front bumper - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUNlKmHgp9k

I watched and read as much as I could before diving into this. Let me tell you: it's fairly common sense once you do it. You almost could just go figure it out. I think I could have the bumper off in 15 minutes now that I've done it. Here's the main thing to know: once all fasteners are removed unclip the sides of the bumper outwards, the top upwards, and lastly the whole assembly forwards.

I saw the backs of the mesh grills and filed away the idea to change them some time later.

[this may help]
(https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-Universal-Fender-Retainers-Diameter/dp/B0093RRSXS)

Yup, u/TreeFiddyZ is right on the money. Order a few for the future, here are the ones that work for me:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0093RRSXS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

are these what your looking for

uxcell 30 Pcs 8mm Hole Black Plastic Rivet Fastener Bumper Clip
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJU673S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_CFm1UTXvcFX9y

One of these?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IC2SNW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3BG5O5IIU0S9P&coliid=I1YTZX8EIHMYV4

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZOJB2O/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3BG5O5IIU0S9P&coliid=ITA7WVH0KOPY

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00588T81Q/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3BG5O5IIU0S9P&coliid=IG7YSVW44EJEX

Flag: $10

Camo jacket: $60

Chrome testicles for your truck: $64 shipped

Rifle scope: $120 (I don't know the first thing about rifle scopes, but this was the most expensive one on the first page of results for "ruger rifle scope".)

Total: $254.

They actually COULD give him a chrome Ballsack this short notice easily.

Unfortunately there's these things in America called "Truck nuts", which come in Chrome, and flesh color that you put on the back of your ball hitch used for towing.

link : https://www.amazon.com/Truck-Nutz-Complete-Hangin-CHROME/dp/B002QPSNS8

maybe? https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Chrysler-6-4mm-Hole-Retainer/dp/B0017UBHQS/ref=pd_sim_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31a2GEW2qlL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR141%2C160_&refRID=QATQG9P13RMNRMTM1V1A

I've used "Christmas Tree" clips on mine.

If the dealer has a body shop they'll probably give you a couple.

I'm not sure how it is on your car those are often held together by these plastic trim fasteners:

https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-102pcs-Fasteners-Expansion-Replacement/dp/B076BMVZ8R/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543475436&sr=8-4&keywords=trim+fasteners

They just snap on. Other times they are held by screws. Research your car or look at your other wheel wells and see how they are fastened. Some use screws. If the holes are plastic you could use epoxy to fix the tares. Otherwise if there is a good spot to do so use a couple of self tapping screws to fasten them back.