1.

Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.

One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).

I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals

I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals

I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.

2.

Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.

I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker

That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)

Fuse Kit

In-line Fuse Holder

---

In general, I think my system will basically look like this:

Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V

Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V

Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits

Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.

Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.

 

What do you think of this proposed setup?

I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.

But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!

I just upgraded the lights on my kawasaki, so I got all this worked out.

• First, a reference for the bulbs your bike takes: https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle/2007-honda-vtx1300c-vehicle-led-lights?make=32&model=3563&year=2007
  
• Front turn signals- I wanted to use my front signals as running lights, so I got these white/amber 1157 bulbs (it says it fits the 7528 sockets on your bike) and clear lenses. These will be white lights, then when you turn on the turn signal the white on that side goes out and blinks amber: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JC7233R/.
  
• amber/amber 1157/7528 bulbs if you don't want white/amber: https://www.amazon.com/iBrightstar-Newest-Bright-Projector-replacement/dp/B071FB824J
  
• clear/smoke turn signal lenses for your bike: optional, but I like the look: https://www.amazon.com/Krator-Signal-Lenses-Indicator-Blinkers/dp/B016N2H60A
  
• Main headlight: I actually kept this halogen because H4 LED headlight bulbs were too expensive and I couldn't mount them in my headlight bucket without modification. This one's more than bright enough for me, I'm really happy with it. I don't feel like I'm blinding oncoming traffic with this one but the lowbeam is brighter than my high beam used to be. But if you still want to, look for an H4 LED bulb, but I don't recommend it. I'd rather replace the bucket if I went that route. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CR3UW6
  
• Tail light bulb: red/red 1157 (says it fits 7528, your bike's size) LED bulb: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY4T4BU/
  
• Rear turn signals: amber 1156 (says it fits the 7506 socket) LED: I actually didn't use these, for a reason I'll explain below. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0739RCR3J/
  
• Turn Signal Relay: You may need this to fix a problem with the bulbs flashing really fast. The reason it does that is because it expects a certain power draw, but the LEDs draw less power, so it thinks a bulb is out. When that happens the turn signals flash really fast. This replacement relay is designed to fix that and the page says it aught to work on your bike. Installation on your bike should be easy: you have to find your stock turn signal relay, unplug it, and plug this one in. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM26LXO
  
• Some quick googling said the turn signal relay "Should be under the right side cover. The one in rubber with the plug in the "back" is the fuel relay the other one has a plug srait in the bottom, thats the one for the blinkers." I hope that makes sense when you get into the bike, check with VTX owner forums for more info.
  
• All 4 turn signals lighting at once- this is something that happened with my bike, again because the power draw was different the bike didn't want to differentiate between left and right turn signals so both sides would light up. I found out if you leave at least one regular bulb in the system, it would behave normally and switch between left and right. That's why I didn't use LED rear turn signals- I can live without those being LEDs. The alternative solution I read was soldiering some resistors into the turn signal indicator circuit, which is above my technical capabilities/confidence. It's your call if you want to go that route, I'm happy enough with my setup (I actually uploaded the demo videos on the amazon page for the relay and white/amber LEDs so you can see how it behaves.)
  
  For the fast/4-way flashing issues, I can't say if they will effect your bike. I have a feeling they will, and if they do you know how to address them. All in this upgrade runs about 90 bucks, minus 17 if you decide to stick with halogen rear turn signals.
  
  ​
  
  Good lord that's a long post

1. Yes you can. Make sure you get a 120 volt switch. Your common options are a 12 volt switch, 24 volt switch or 120 volt switch. Since you're panels will be operating around 60 volts, you just use the next one up, which is 120 volts.
   
   
2. Grounding one is fine.
   
   
3. I don't see a question 3....
   
   
4. This one is a judgement call, and maybe someone with more battery knowledge can chime in. When completely dead, the battery will take as much current as the alternator will supply to charge. As it gets more charged the current will drop significantly until at some point it's completely full and drawing very little current. I've seen batteries before in flatbed trailers used for winches that charge on the 7 pin trailer plug with 12 gauge wire. That wire gets very hot when the battery is completely dead, but I've never seen one catch fire or melt either. Since it's not running 150 amps constantly, you get to be the judge on how thick this wire needs to be. It doesn't need to be 00, but I personally wouldn't go smaller than 8 awg. The online wire calculations assume maximum current "continuous load", which means at least 3 hours of maximum current, that's where the 00 gauge comes from, supporting 3 hours at 150 amps. If you ran 150 amps to your batteries for 3 hours, they would explode. I've yet to find a simple wire calculator that does peak loads followed by lower loads, so that's where judgment comes in. A slow blow 50 amp fuse would probably be enough protection there since the amount of time you'll be drawing more than that will be short before the amps taper off. I believe the isolator in my van is all wired with 6 or 8 gauge wire from the factory.
   
   
5. Order doesn't matter.
   
   
6. https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/receptacle-outlet-wiring-diagrams.html
   
   The other option is to just plug in a power strip if you don't need permanent installed outlets. If you are going to permanently install the outlets the wiring should be SJO cable to circuit breaker, circuit breaker to all outlets.
   
   https://rvpartsexpress.com/product/20-amp-gfci-stand-alone-circuit-breaker/
   
   7.https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B07CP987BN/
   
   T-taps and some spade connectors would be the easiest way, otherwise it'll be a lot of cutting and soldering. If you go with t taps you can mix the colors of the connectors. It'll likely be a yellow tap on the 12 gauge trunk line, and the LED positive will get a red spade connector to plug into the yellow tap. The spades themselves are all the same size, so use the right color connector for each individual wire.
   
   
   
   Other comments: the wires coming from the charge controller to batteries only needs to support 40 amps. They can be 8 gauge and fused at 40 amps, not 150. Your wire from battery to fuse block can be 8 gauge as well. I only see 25 amps of accessories in the block, and you'll likely never run all of them at once. So an 8 gauge supply and ground line with a 40 or 50 amp inline fuse will give you plenty of room to add more accessories later while being safe.
   
   Edit: make sure you buy twisted strand copper wiring and not aluminum clad or solid core. Best spot for the thicker wiring is car audio stores or search amazon for stereo amp installation kits. If you go to home Depot for 0 gauge wire it'll be rigid and hard to work with, the car stereo wiring is super flexible.
   
   Edit 2: you may want to consider adding a battery management system after the isolator. They make many variations, some that include the isolator function as well. Some allow you to program a maximum current for charging the lifepo4, which will make it easier to judge wire size for that run. The big benefit though is that a standard car alternator will only charge lithium batteries about 75% because it's regulated to about 14.2 volts. That's what the lead acid battery expects for charging. The lithium needs 14.7 or more to charge fully. So adding the bms will allow the lithiums to fully charge while driving, otherwise you'll have to rely on the solar for the last 25% of the charge. Just make sure to program the charge controller for lithium batteries.

God I hope this formats correctly - I am a neophyte.

Exhaust - http://www.ixilusa.com/ixil-l3xb-black-hyperlow-xl-full-exhaust-yamaha-mt-07-2014-2015/

Super deep and loud sound - videos online don't do it justice, its unbelievably loud when the baffles are out. Had to have the cat cut out of it. Be aware they have a cat in the V section before the end of the pipe.

Removed the snorkel covering the airbox - I was told its basically blocks airflow.

ECU Flash / Dyno by 2wheelDynoWorks - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/15-17-yamaha-fz07-mail-in-ecu-flashing-service/

Nels himself worked on my bike - super stoked (shout out to Nate too) They have the best customer service.

Active Tune - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/yamaha-activetune-afr-closed-loop-self-tuning-ecu-kit-2/

Tune as you go

Bike side harness - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/ftlink-v1-1-6-pin-bike-side-harnesses/

For tuning later

Windscreen - https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/puig-touring-naked-new-generation-windscreen-yamaha-mt-07-2018

I got light smoke, I think it goes better with the bike and pushes wind over my shoulders even at 80+ mph

Protection - https://tstindustries.com/Womet-Tech-Total-Crash-Protection-Pack-for-Yamaha-FZ-07-MT-07-2015.html

Basically got everything from this except the bar ends

Bar Ends - https://motostarz.com/collections/mt-07-2018/products/rhinomoto-barends-mirror-mounts-for-yamaha-fz-mt-models

Super easy to replace mirrors etc with these - and they add protection

Throttle tube - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C59NO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

90 to 60 degree conversion - its amazing for the price

Dash Screen Protector - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SMP4ND/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mirror stem deletes - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN8QGPV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Current Mirrors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6GB7DZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mirrors in photo - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RESHVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like the CRG Mirrors but they get bumped and are hard to readjust - the cheap ebay/amazon mirrors work great

Headlight replacement - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6NZ5QW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Signal replacement LED bulbs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK4PL33/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Super bright replacements for stock bulbs - used the original housings, they plug right in

Running light LED replacements - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRE38EA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For inside the headlight housing

Tail Tidy - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BH5YGOM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Flasher Relay for LEDs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM26LXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Levers - https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Brake-Clutch-Yamaha-MT-07-FZ-07-2014-2018-Adjustable-Engrave-Long-Lever/123350737715?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D17a37c1b2d204ffcba65903d19a97b4a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D122997203335%26itm%3D123350737715&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Passenger peg deletes - https://www.ebay.com/itm/for-YAMAHA-MT07-FZ07-Footrest-Cover-Passenger-Footpeg-Removal-Delete-Kit-2014/253869999740?hash=item3b1bd4c67c:g:3qEAAOSw0JVbm1FQ:rk:1:pf:0

I removed the passenger pegs, needed a bracket to hold the brake fluid reservoir - also cleaned up the pegs

Havent done the brakes yet - going to replace the lines etc with steel braid.

Also want to do a sprocket / chain swap for acceleration

I used a quadlock phone mount for a little bit - but took it off because I was playing with my phone too much.

Buy a pair of Hella 7" Headlamps (ECE), and this.

The lamp housings are european code (ECE or E-code). Technically not DOT legal in the US-- but is your inspection station going to inspect your headlamp housings?) These have a sharp cutoff so they won't blind other drivers. I've been running them for years and I love them. The pattern is far superior to DOT lamps-- it tends to really throw the light forward from the bulbs.

The wire loom from ARB is made of a much thicker gauge wire than the wires that are currently driving your headlights. The same bulbs will run brighter with this wire loom upgrade, but I found that if you add new housings (with nice clean clear glass and a good light projection pattern), and a pair of high-quality H4 bulbs, your headlights will work with the power of a thousand suns.

For bulbs, I'm currently running Sylvania SilverStars, but in the past I found out about IPF Fatboy II 80W/60W bulbs. The low-beam is actually higher than the high-beam wattage. Not sure why or how that makes sense, but these are a seriously great upgrade. Be warned, they run very hot and are susceptible to vibration damage (moreso than other standard 55w bulbs). Don't expect these bulbs to last more than a year or two. They're intense, though.

Hope that helps, because that's what I did to my Jeep. I also added a pair of Hella driving-pattern auxiliary lights on my stinger and a pair of 4" Delta fog lights on my front bumper.

It doesn't take much to be honest. You can go manual for under $1,000 if you look around. Keep an eye on CraigsList, OfferUp, check junkyards, etc.
 
If you decide you want to do it, then...


You'll need the following:
 

• B-Series Transmission Cable or Hydro (I'd prefer Hydro)
  
• B-Series Clutch, Flywheel & Pressure Plate
  
• B-Series Shift Linkage w/Bitch Pin
  
• B-Series Manual Trans Speed Sensor
  
• Clutch Master Cylinder
  
• Clutch Fluid Resevoir
  
• DC-Chassis Hydraulic Slave & Lines
  
• DC-Chassis Clutch Pedal Set
  
• DC-Chassis Passenger Side Manual Motor Mount
  
• DC-Chassis Rear T-Bracket
  
• DC-Chassis Manual Axles
  
• DC-Chassis Axle Half-Shaft
  
• DC-Chassis Manual Cluster (Optional).
   
  
   
  You can use your same ECU, but you'll need to trick the ECU for "start in park" safety switch by doing some wiring. If you don't want to deal with that and prefer a cleaner setup where you don't need to cut up your harness (which I personally prefer), you can get the following:
   
  
  
• OBD2A to OBD1 Jumper Harness
  
• Chipped OBD1 Manual ECU w/B18B Basemap
  
   
  It's important to note that you'll need an OBD2A jumper harness to make the OBD1 ECU work in your 1998 Integra.
  
  ('94-'95 = OBD1, '96-'99 = OBD2A, '00-'01 = OBD2B)
   
  
  I just gave you all the info you'll need, saving you hours of research. Hopefully that makes it easier for you. It's a fun project to do and you'll feel way more accomplished doing it yourself. Good luck.

For budget mods, the best bang for the buck in my opinion is lighting. Its nice to be able to see where you're going. The headlights on your Cherokee use H6054 sealed beams. Many people replace those sealed beams with composite headlights which allow the user to replace the bulb inside of the housing. That opens you up to a myriad of bulb choices. Be sure that whatever housings you get are DOT approved. Most of the stuff you see on eBay and Amazon are for offroad or show use only, not designed to be used on roads. That's because many of them have not been through the testing procedure of the department of transportation. If you run headlights that are not DOT approved, you could get pulled over for it or fail your safety inspection if your state does inspections.

The best way to increase the lighting on the front of your Cherokee is to either buy or make a relay harness for the headlights. From the factory, the voltage goes through the headlight switch and out to the headlights. The length of wire, thickness of wire, and condition of the switch can negatively affect the delivery of power to your lights. Only a small drop in voltage can have very noticeable effects on the output of the lights. The fix is to utilize relays to draw power directly off of the battery and feed that power to your lights. All the factory wiring stays in place and is used to trigger relays rather than supply power to the lights directly. Here is a link you can follow if you want to make one yourself. http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm If you'd rather buy one, many Cherokee drivers are going with one made by Putco. http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G Some of the reviews of that product specifically talk about using it on Cherokees.

Buying a kit, following the directions, and watching a couple of youtube videos showing how to install it will be a pretty simple project for you and not cost a lot of money.

Other budget mods include mixing and matching of parts with other Jeeps you'll find at the junk yard. The tie rod from a ZJ (1993-1998 Grand Cherokee) with the V8 engine is thicker and more sturdy than the tie rod that comes on a Cherokee. It'll fit and gives you increased strength. The control arms from WJ Grand Cherokees (1999-2004) are fully boxed instead of the U channel of our XJ's control arms and are bent inward to accommodate wider tires without rubbing.

Hey y'all! Some of you asked about mods so here is a full list of what I have done so far with links.

Radiator guard - Has a nice little FZ-07 etched at the bottom.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075MCXCM7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shorty levers - Mine are gray but they come in lots of colors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0197N3KA2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bar end mirrors - You can find these for less but I chose these because the reviews indicated that they might be better quality than others.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q3UL6S6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yoshimura fender eliminator - Kinda pricey for what it is but it looks really nice.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T6J9IM2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Motodynamic integrated tail light - I also looked at the TST but after looking at some videos decided on this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015NN3YUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Proton 500 flush mount LED - These things are brighter than the sun. You can also change the signal pattern which I thought was cool.
http://www.hightechspeed.com/products/Proton500/yamaha.html

Flasher relay - Prevents hyper flash and let me get rid of resistors.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM26LXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stompgrip volcano black - I really like these and they have great grip. You can also get them in clear from their website if that's your thing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018NH74BE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Akrapovic TI - This exhaust sounds sweet, I also purchased the CAT for it through cyclegear.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L44J56G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Other mods that i'm considering in the future
Stainless Steel braided brake lines, FTECU on the bike flash kit, T-Rex Racing no cut combo.


Bonus - https://i.redd.it/en8vfnpv46u01.jpg

$83.94 IPF housings
$20.98 Hella H4 55/100W
$27.34 Putco harness
$14.56 Backup relays

$146.82 for a sharp cutoff and much more light on the road, and an incredible high beam, delivered in two days if you have an Amazon Prime membership. I bet you use high beams a lot now, but you'll probably rarely feel the need to use them on the road with this setup.

$147.99 for a 50 inch light bar. Even though the headlights offer a lot of light, having extra flood would be great when off road. I don't actually have this yet, but I plan on buying it as a reward for getting some work done on my XJ. Mine is still new to me, and I haven't yet had the time to earn it yet.

Less than $300 and two days for an incredible amount of light output.

If I don't buy that light bar, it's because I'm getting a Cree light bar with XP/XT or XM emitters that I'll be upgrading...I'm on the hunt for a light bar that uses XTE emitters like this light because output can greatly be increased by swapping in XP-L's, and more than doubled if power can be increased. That mod is more of a hobbyist thing than an attempt to save money, and not all of them would be done anyway since it'd sacrifice some throw for flood.

So that thing has 40 bulbs, are they 3W bulbs? If so, you're adding 10 amps worth of draw.

This will be your best bet, the only difference is instead of wiring in the included switch, you'll wire the switched wires to the headlight circuit.

If you don't want to buy the kit, go ahead and buy a relay and harness pack, then wire the black wire to ground, yellow to the positive wire on light bar, the white wire to the headlight positive circuit (your switch), then the blue wire with an inline fuse of at least 15 amps direct to the battery. To handle that amount of power, I'd recommend using 14 gauge wire, I tend to go a little heavier on wire than most, but I like the safety factor.

edit: also make sure you heatshrink the connections for weather protection, and use either good butt connectors or solder the connections.

I've been asked this several times haha. I'll do a little explaining now, but I think it's time I put together an album explaining it with pictures.

I used the following wiring harness:
OPT7 Offroad Light Bar wiring Harness Kit (4 Items), 380W - Single Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K1NS0PS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u9hrxb06G38RA

The wiring is in a protective plastic/rubber sleeve. I ran the sleeve up the side of the windshield. On my windshield there's a slight gap between the metal of the body and glass, like the Rubber seal is set in a little bit. I cut a thin strip of 3m exterior mounting tape and used a screwdriver or something to push it into the gap.

Scotch Exterior Mounting Tape, 1-Inch by 60-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UaLrxbHN01CVZ

The adhesive tape has held up all winter and about a total of 8 months, so I'd say it works well.

I ran it up the passenger side because the way my light bar was the wiring came out on that side, plus you don't see it easily everytime you get in the car. You could do the drivers side also. The wiring harness I used was basically just long enough. I'd recommend starting from the light and working backwards to the battery, that way you don't have any extra wiring up top.

You can also use some type of adhesive wire clip to guide the wire down the rain gutter thing so it's a little more secure till it gets to the light. I attempted to do this, but I had trouble getting the clip things to stick.I'll probably try to redo it soon.

Like I said, I'll try to get some pictures when I get around to it to help explain it further.

This way is a lot easier and "safer" than drilling through the roof or something.

I just installed the XAV-AX100 in my Impala last week!

I went with the PAC RP5-GM31 (this model is chevy specific), as it integrated both the wiring harness, and Steering wheel controls for my setup. I'm having weirdness with some PAC buttons. Check my most recent post in /r/CarAV if you want the details. If you get a PAC, "Voice input" might not work for Siri or Google.

It seems like the idatalink maestro RR could be a good option for you, i regret not getting one. You can test the programming of your buttons here: http://maestro.idatalink.com/weblink5/ui-popup/index/content_id/tryWeblink.
Then use a wiring harness such as [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harness-Subaru-Impreza-Standard/dp/B00B1VEWFG). But...you should definitely confirm the harness is supported, I only looked briefly. At that point, there will be like 5-6 wires you need to connect to the idatalink. Idatalink will provide instructions for this.

You can see if PAC has any all in one options for your vehicle, but I am definitely not happy with the way it works with my XAV-AX100.

Yet another option if you dont need commodities (like factory amplifier, chimes, Onstar, Satellite radio, etc), you can wire up [your own SWC plug] (https://esupport.sony.com/US/p/support-info.pl?info_id=1470). The XAV-AX100 can program its own SWCs. Once again, just tap the 3 wires when you connect your factory wiring harness to the Sony wiring harness. [here are the buttons you'd get with sony] (https://imgur.com/a/bWkr7). Long press commands will probably not work with this method, so you're limited by your number of physical buttons.

For aux in, Sony does not support it... however there are other options. With Onstar/XM, I believe you can wire your aux cable to play through these systems. You would need to be able to engage XM separately via your car (ax100 does not support XM). You could also consider wiring a bluetooth adapter on the other side of your aux input, behind your dash, and wire it to your ACC power, so it turns on and connects when your car starts.

Good luck!

I got great results out of the stock headlights by simply upgrading the wiring. I ordered one of these Putco harnesses intending to upgrade the bulbs later, but I got enough a big enough boost in light that I haven't found the need to upgrade the lights themselves.

If you decide to upgrade the bulbs, I'd recommend a more reliable harness, but this is a cheap/quick alternative.

Good luck!

Are you just replacing the head unit only? I'm a bit confused as to why you would need to write down wire colors from the car itself. Please tell me you didn't cut any wires. In my experience doing car audio installs I haven't had to splice anything directly into the car's wire harness unless someone cut wires they shouldn't have. There should have been a plug in the back of your factory head unit, you just push down the clip and pull it out. Then you buy an wiring harness adapter specific for Subaru which has a plug that the plug you pulled from the head unit will fit into. This will have colored wires coming out of it that you then connect to the aftermarket head unit. This is the harness I'm talking about, I'm from the US so not sure where to get them in AU but any place that sells car audio parts should be able to get it for you if they don't have it in stock.

Every decent wire harness adapter I've seen comes with a chart explaining the colors so you can match them to the pigtail coming from your new head unit. The head unit should also come with a chart or sticker explaining the wire colors. I recommend soldering the two harnesses together and heat shrink tubing over the solder joints but if you don't know how then crimp connectors will work as well.

That said there are sometimes wires that are only used in certain cars or some head units don't feature. ie: dimmer switch control or power antennas. You can generally ignore these wires, just make sure there isn't any bare wire exposed.

I hope this helps, feel free to ask me any more specific questions or need me to clarify something.

A headlight harness will help a lot. H4 conversion housing like the ones made by Hella (I have the e-code) will be amazing.

I highly recommend against getting cheap flea-bay junk like those Cree lights. Spend the money on quality parts for your own safety and others on the road.

the autopal housings are great and take H4 bulbs. super easy refit, although you should also do a relay harness if you are going to overpower them because all the power goes through the headlight switch in the stock config.

harness
housing
bulbs

Note that if you have fogs the highbeam cutoff circuit might malfunction if you install a relay harness. Some info here

TL;DR: Any h6054 housing will fit. Do a harness swap too.

Edit: the Autopal and some other housing brands are available with ECODE or DOT glass lenses, for LHD or RHD.
DOT means there is not as sharp a cutoff. This is used in the US because overhead road signs are not illuminated as they are in the EU. As another poster said, once you have the housing in with it's little stamp you pretty much have carte blanche for the bulbs

I understand where you're coming from for the integrated tail light deal. I prefer to have my flashing indicators be as obvious as possible. They're not there for any other purpose but to announce that I'm doing shit I want other people noticing I'm doing, you know? I am thinking of installing a BackOff unit to flicker my brake light though. Do miss that from my old VStar 1100 I'd put one on. Anything useful to help raise awareness of my presence helps.

I did swap the relay on mine, it was something like $11 on Amazon as well. (Edit:This one here for $10.99) Easy plug-and-play swap. It's right by the battery, just pop your seat off and there it is.

This is the package i have put together so far (2005 Prius w/ JBL + Nav). Can anyone tell me if all of this is required, and/or if there are better options available (I'm sure there are better receivers - this just seemed like the best bang for the buck)

Metra Axxess ASWC-1: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Metra 70-8114 Steering Wheel Control Wire Harness: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064J4LOM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Metra TYTO-01 JBL Amplifier Interface Harness: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00133RCCC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Pioneer AVH-X2800BS Receiver (i may go for one without a backup cam): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6BHJUY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A17Y7218I8U3RT

Metra 95-8240B Stereo Dash Kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDVR9V0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

My .02 worth for ya..... Go in this order instead of jumping right into a set of LED headlamps.

1 - Upgrade the wiring harness.

I installed a Putco harness in 2013 when I first got the XJ and it was a definitely improvement.
Putco 230004HW Premium Automotive Lighting H4 100W Heavy Duty Wiring Harness and Relay

Other folks have gone the eBay route, and I bought one of these on a whim (because it was stupid cheap) just to see if the quality was worth it.
CERAMIC H4 HEADLIGHT RELAY WIRING HARNESS 2 HEADLAMP LIGHT BULB SOCKET PLUGS 7

Ended up not installing it because I had other things to work on instead of replacing the Putco harness that was working fine. Overall though, the quality was surprisingly good and I would have used it if I didn't already have the Putco harness.

For all the negative comments people have about the Putco upgrade harness, it's still working fine a little over 3yrs later. Knock on wood, of course.

2 - Get a set of H4 housings. I bought these off Amazon, but there are other reputable brands out there which work just fine.

GENSSI DOT H6054 7x6 Inch 200mm Headlights Pair with Bulbs Non-Sealed H6014/H6052/H6054

These came with some crappy OCONUS-made no-name bulbs that sucked balls and were immediately thrown in the garbage.

I went to my local PepBoys and grabbed a set of Sylvania SilverStar "Ultra Halogen" H4 bulbs and threw those in the housings.

Holy shit, #1 & #2 were an incredible upgrade to the shit stock XJ headlights.

If you're looking to stay right at or a hair under $100 that's the way to go.

Last year, I came into some $$$ and got it into my head that I wanted LED headlights. Went this route: Truck-Lite (27450C) Headlamp

Wow.

Significant difference from the H4 bulbs + wiring harness upgrade but I'm honestly glad I did the H4 bulbs + wiring harness upgrade first.

Now that said... In hindsight, the LEDs weren't absolutely necessary and I could have put the $$$ into a SYE or something else.

But hey, ya learn as ya go. Right?

It is pretty easy to do yourself, but my experience is that you'll be much better off buying the harness online. For example:

http://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harness-radio-wiring-installation/dp/B000KL37PO

If you needs someone to do it for you, I recommend Derand who are just off Innes. They installed a Viper alarm for me a couple of months back and their service was excellent, if a little quirky.

There are lots of good options - an image search for "quick disconnect DC" will allow you to get an idea what's out there. I've used Anderson connectors with good luck for our DC, although they are not the easiest to terminate for the inexperienced. These connectors are also popular in e.g. Off-road vehicles and can be found cheaply, albeit usually as a premade assembly rather than something you can create a termination yourself: https://www.amazon.com/GAUGE-PIN-QUICK-DISCONNECT-HARNESS/dp/B00XRPZTGU

Do you know what wiper motor you have? Or what year and model car it came from? From that we can get the amperage.

Voltage doesn't matter-- everything is 12 volts (DC).

Amperage does matter, but I'm guessing your wiper motor uses around 1A. The relay of the remote I linked to earlier has a rating of 5A, so you might put a 5A fuse in there. If there's a short, it will definitely go above 5A and blow the fuse (which is what you want). Here's an example of a fuse holder that would work, but there a million options.

Since you're using a 5A fuse, you could use 16 or 18 AWG wire (rated for 7 and 10A).

So far I've been talking about the circuit for the motor that passes through the relay. For the receiver's power, you could use another 5A fuse with the same wire just to be consistent, though it really is only using milli-amps.

So basically, we size the protection (the 5A fuse) above the normal operating current (1A?), and then everything else is sized to be higher than the protection (5A+).

Finally, you'll wonder how you're supposed to connect the wires together. The best option is to solder the wires together and put heat shrink around the joint. If you can't handle that, they sell crimp wire splices for that. You can buy a real crimper or just use pliers.

Not quite sure what answer you are looking for. But things to consider.

Operating system that the unit uses (android, third party, etc) depends on what you need (GPS, phone mirroring, USB port, etc)

If you have an android operating system (my favorite) then just choose the newest system and grab some of the other brackets needed to mount it (see attached below). You have android auto and it will mirror with your phone and you essentially have your phone in your dash.

My only gripe about touch screens are those that do not have a volume nob... it's frustrating to quickly turn down the volume if you have to keep poking the screen. (I learned the hard way... just get a volume nob)

As for back up camera there is more then one way to skin a cat. Just choose a bundle deal with a quality brand name unit. And it will inform you of how it is to be installed... typically just run it into the back door pannel and into the plastic housing for the hatch handle. And run it back along the trim pieces near the doors. It's a fun project.

Stereo swaps are simple as long as you get the adapter and watch a video or tow on how go remove all the necessary trim pieces and what not.

(Note i Just chose the first link on google ... may be able to fine a better price.)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KL55A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hLF9BbFV3B834

And brackets would be
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015G6JRQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oOF9BbH3P21HA

Sorry I dont have a specific head unit for you, but some reviews on the items should give you a good idea of the quality. And of it offers a warranty longer then 1 year... it's likely well built.



NOTE: disconnect your battery and let it sit for a while ... if you unplug the airbag unit sensor thingy (technical name I'm sure) in the dash and the battery is sending power it will trip your SRS light on. This sucks to get it back off.

Happy shopping this cyber Monday for this.

It's hard to beat the Chinese at this one... I've seen a guy on Facebook reselling prebuilt harnesses as his own creation, but I'm more interested in making a quality product that's going to outlast the rig it's installed on. I want my reputation to be built on quality and value for the dollar.

Example:

For $20:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-HEADLIGHT-RELAY-WIRING-HARNESS-2-HEADLAMP-LIGHT-BULB-SOCKET-PLUGS-7-/330997592807

For $40:

https://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G/?tag=vig-20

And at the premium/benchmark end:

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/ipf-wiring-harness.html

If I could make and sell a harness that people would be interested in, I'd be game. We'd be talking OEM quality TXL wire, ceramic plugs, HELLA style relays... but it's not going to be $20. That's the hard part, being competitive in price and quality in relation to other offerings.

Hey, EastPhilly! I am actually working on trying to get a winjet fog light set installed in my 2013 Impreza and found your comment super duper helpful. I’m just trying to figure out how you would know exactly which relay and H11 adapter to buy?

More specifically, which relay should I get from eBay and where exactly does it go in the relay button section in the car (user manual wasn’t helpful)? Also, which H11 adapter should I get from Amazon - is this the one you got? (Not sure if it’s a 9006 I should be looking for)

Here is a video I made demoing my NC Nexus 7 install. It is very basic now. I wanted to see how little I need to get audio working. It isw working better that I expected. Let me know what you think or if you have any questions.

Edit 1:
Parts and pricing(includes shipping) list:

• 2(you only need 1) of these 12v to 5v converter - ~$13 for 2
  
• 1 Right angle OTG cable- $5.75
  
• 1 Male to Male USB cable - $5.00
  
• 1 Metra Din Kit - $21.12
  
• 1 Right angle AUX Cable - $10.43
  
• 1 Female to Female aux coupler - $4.33
  
• 1 Male aux to female RCA cable - $4.50
  
• 1 Male RCA to speaker wire cable - $9.36
  
• 1 Metra wiring harness - $13.37
  
• 1 Pack Command hooks - $9.00
  
• 1 Anti-glare screen protector - $5.95
  
  Total: $88.81 + the cost of a Nexus (2012) which is about $150-$180 depending on which configuration you get. (Note: Timur's ROM only works with Nexus 7 2012)
  
  So $238-$268 grand total.
  
  I also bought a wire stripping and crimping kit - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K7GRCI/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  And a Dremel for cutting the metra bezel and the command hooks
  
  
  I also rooted my Nexus 7 and installed Timur's rom. That was a headache and not needed because you can duplicate the functionality by using Tasker, a Nexus 7 task scheduling app. But to install Timur's ROM basically you need to unlock the bootloader, install TWRP recovery, then install Timur's USB Host ROM. That ROM gives you the ability to plug USB devices like thumb drives into the Nexus 7. It also gives you the option to put the tablet into deep sleep when you turn your car off.

SECTION | CONTENT

--|:--
Title | FZ-07 Progress Report
Description | The Build Parts so far, TwoBros "The Garden Snake" edition Exhaust - Danny@TwoBros.com Stage Two Filter and Lid Kit, https://www.e-dnafilters.com/product/Stage-2-and-3-Applications/Yamaha/DNA-1092/YMA-MT07/Yamaha-MT-07-(13-15)-DNA-Air-Box-Cover-and-Filter-TC-Y7N14-S2 ECU Flash Tune - http://www.veloxracing.com/ Core Moto brake lines - http://amzn.to/2iYwoR2 LED Relay - http://amzn.to/2iq0Mnj Pro Taper Carmichael Bars - http://amzn.to/2iGkCyz Pro Taper Pillow Top MX Grips - http://amzn.to/2j6VDFB Shorty CNC Levers - http://amzn.to/2iGe6It R6 Throttle Tube - http://amzn.to/2iGbJFq RAM Mounts - http://amzn.to/2hPo0aY Phone Mount - http://amzn.to/2iG7slt GoPro Mount - http://amzn.to/2j2EGrz Bar End Mirrors - http://amzn.to/2iGdouu Bar End Mount Kit for MX Bars - http://amzn.to/2hQqdRT Washers Needed for Bar Mount - https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/RFD8071034B/RFD8071034B The Proton 500 blinkers SAVE 15%-http://hightechspeed.refr.cc/bullwacky Motodynamic Fender Eliminator - http://amzn.to/2iP0L0A Motodynamic Integrated Tail Light - http://amzn.to/2ircKkB Mini Fly / Windscreen (Its only $30!) http://amzn.to/2iz4Q61 Merch http://bit.ly/1Rxcefz Shirts https://teespring.com/stores/thegardensnake Support my Patreon here, https://www.patreon.com/TheGardenSnake TheGardenSnakes Second Channel, https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjDp-bUClKTq8lzoC18iJLw TheGardenSnake on Instagram http://instagram.com/jake_thegardensnake TheGardenSnake on FaceBook http://www.facebook.com/TheGardenSnake TheGardenSnake on Twitter https://twitter.com/#!/thegardensnake and only if you want to, https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=DSV4PQ4B2L28E Business inquiries, TGSBusiness@mail.com Cold Funk - Funkorama by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100499 Artist: http://incompetech.com/
Length | 0:11:55






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You need:

• The Carvepower setup from your link
  
• Have to buy batteries extra from eBay
  
• Some parts to put together the CnR cable that goes from the Carvepower to your board:
  1.) XLR connector like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067JJ8Q/
  2.) Some long enough wire, for example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UR0N370/
  3.) One XT60 connector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9HM7NC/
  4.) Some sort of quick disconnect plug, example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZOIJ0S/ (this is so that it can easily disconnect if you crash without damaging the cable)
  Then just solder those parts together and you're ready to go.
  
  PS: This case is optional but it perfectly fits 2 carvepower battery cases and the solar charger device + cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6N3J8D/

Okay, so, here is everything I used:

Light bar 28" flood/spot

Mount to 1" roof basket bar

Wire Clips

Wire harness, this comes with the bar if you choose the package. I ran the switch through the firewall wire grommet by cutting a hole in the grommet (BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT ANY WIRES). The wire that plugs into the car was run under the hood and up the window, secured by the clips. I followed this guys guide, u/DauphDaddy He didn't use the same harness but its the same idea. Hope this helps!!

I had fog lights added to my '04 Grand Cherokee that didn't have the factory option. Holes were there already, but the wiring wasn't. I used this kit. The wires weren't long enough for my car, so more had to be added. Everything worked perfectly besides that.

I got the Hella housings that take an H4 bulb, then put SilverStars in them because I like the nice white color temperature.

I think the biggest difference honestly came from this harness. With it bypassing the stock wiring (if I remember correctly it just uses the stock light cables to trip the relays) it can supply a lot more juice from the battery.

I have the 55/60 watt bulbs now, but I might swap in the 90/100's when these go since the harness can support them.

That's really awesome that you say that I bought h4 stuff on Amazon and I'm gearing up to install.

Anyone have any experience? Is this a good setup? Tough to install?


HELLA 003427291 Vision Plus 190x132mm High/Low Beam 12V Halogen Conversion Headlamp
H4 100w Ceramic Fused PnP Heavy Duty Automotive Wiring Harness Headlight Foglight Booster Relay 12v
HELLA H4 12V 100/80W Halogen High Wattage Bulb Off Road Use

This would be the better option, wouldn't it? It converts it from 9004 to H4 safely?

https://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G

Are you talking about the adapter for the headunit? When I did the install on my sister's FR-S I used this harness https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWLA3T0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But I've also heard good things about SVXDC http://ae64.com/
who is very popular on NASIOC

ah okay awesome man.

I read the reviews for the harness you bought and they werent very positive. Someone recomended this harness... no reviews though.. thoughts? or is it still cheaper to just buy some bosch relays, switch them out and pop the harness in?

Very good point bringing up the relay harness. The stock wiring is crap. This upgrade is as important as the e codes themselves. Even what I'm running (55/60 bulbs) the difference is massive. But I upgraded the wiring long before I did the headlights. Bought mine years ago still going strong


https://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Automotive-Harness-Headlight-Foglight/dp/B00BMN30HY/ref=pd_sbs_236_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BMN30HY&pd_rd_r=AMFGSTM0NEFJBJ5FY5BG&pd_rd_w=FP7E4&pd_rd_wg=lmaEX&psc=1&refRID=AMFGSTM0NEFJBJ5FY5BG

Accessory wire is the 12v+ that gets current when you put your car key in the ignition and turn it (or, if you have wireless keys, just when ever the radio can play, but not the engine) (accessory has 12v+ with the engine running)

Basically, if you can turn your radio on, the accessory wire has current.

You want to use this wire, because the lights will turn off automatically when you get out the car.

You can tap into the wire using a t-tap like this

Nilight 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit, 2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP987BN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DXa2Cb03G4FAR

I put LED turn signals on my bike and I used an electronic turn signal flasher instead of the stock one. You just unplug your old flasher and plug this one in, this way is a lot easier than resistors. You'll have to use an electronic flasher or resistors if you change to LEDs otherwise you'll get hyperflashing.

You can use something like this, this one might even work for your bike.

https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Electronic-Flasher-Motorcycle-Signal/dp/B00RM26LXO

It says it doesn't fit, but it does. Trust me, I'm a stranger on the internet.

http://imgur.com/a/AjnXI

That's my chick.

Akrapovic carbon, crash cage (but don't get the one I have, go impaktech!), The front signals are high-tech speed proton 500s, the rear light has integrated signals here, the relay for the front (rear comes with them) here, tail tidy, stainless steel lines were easily the best upgrade by far. I bought it with a stoltec ECU flash (amazing), and racetech suspension front and rear (also awesome).

I've heard those called Vampire taps before. It doesn't seem right to call this a "brute force" mod. It's quite simple, elegant, and non-destructive.

EDIT

I guess vampire tap just refers to the old 10BaseT networking thing. Found these "T-taps" on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B07CP987BN

I just bought one of these and put it together last weekend. I bought this adapter off (and the camera) Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWLA3T0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The camera's field of view is a little weird. Installed on the recommended spot, I have trouble seeing all of my right side. It's still great though, and you should be using your mirrors anyways.

Good to hear. Did you make a harness or buy one? This one? - http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G

> I'm looking more for what, if anything, is needed in the wiring behind the socket.

You need an Automotive Receptacle, and an Inline Fuse (2A is plenty) to protect it.

> But I'm wondering if there is some other interference on that battery and the wiring that I'm going to need to address.

What else do you have hooked up on the Leisure Battery and how do you charge it?


-------


Automotive Socket:

https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Marine-12-Volt-Power-Outlet/dp/B003EET3XY/

(IIRC 12V and 24V use the same physical socket, though you might want to look for a 24V specific one if you don't want to risk it)

------

Inline Fuse (Actual Fuse Not Included):

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-0400ATCFH16-5-Fuse-Holder-Gauge/dp/B008CVPE8C

If anything a harness won't hurt. I upgraded to the Hella e-codes and versus stock wiring there was a noticeable increase in light output.

https://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G

MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O72R7Z8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I hope this works

The thing that sucks about Cherokee headlights IS the wiring.

Buy this and install it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P29X4G/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/184-6657873-1060049

Changing the lights themselves will not help without feeding them ample current.

Stock lights work GREAT after you fix the wiring.

Unfortunately without a wiring diagram of how you have it connected I'm not sure what the issue is. The wiring doesn't sound correct, you shouldn't be routing main power lines to a switch and you should try using relays kits such as linked below, you can get power from the cig lighter for the illumination for the switch.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O72R7Z8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478261904&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=relay+light+harness&dpPl=1&dpID=51AotTzudvL&ref=plSrch

They have an included wiring diagram and you only run a grounding wire inside to switch the main power which means you only need one wire running inside and you can ground to anything metal inside the cabin. Now on this switch Since it has illumination that's why it shows power wires to the switch but they show them as thin wires as this is just for an led which is super low current

These are the brackets I used. These are the lights I used. Installation of the brackets is fairly straightforward. A guide comes with the purchase. Wiring the lights was probably the most difficult aspect just because I had to extend the reach of the relay . Feel free to ask me any more specific questions.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP987BN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SzyZDbW15NCS6

Are these the correct ones? I just want to make sure before I buy. I might look on eBay to see if I can just get a couple since I don't need so much lol

I used this harness. Worked out perfect and drilled a 3/4" hole in one of the blank knock outs in the dash near the light dimmer dial. Has an illuminated switch when on and has spade connectors for two front lights. I just used one since I have a 20" led bar behind the lower grille.

MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O72R7Z8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ZYjgQJvFDJ4ET

I bought this wiring harness

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O72R7Z8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1509824892&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=light%2Bbar%2Bwiring%2Bharness&dpPl=1&dpID=514cd74Z1UL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

It’s basically plug and play. Wire the lights. I mounted the relay next to the battery. Connect to battery, then run switch wires through the firewall and into the dash. Took me two hours.

I put a Pioneer 4100 NEX in my 2011 Prius II. It can use Android Auto or Apple CarPlay.

Here are the parts I used to install it.

• [Scosche Dash Kit for 2010 Toyota Prius Din with Pocket and Double Din] (http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Toyota-Prius-Pocket-Double/dp/B003KZJXVE?ie=UTF8)
  
• [Scosche Radio Wiring Harness for 1987-Up Toyota Power/4 Speaker Connector] (http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Harness-1987-Up-Speaker-Connector/dp/B00009UHKW?ie=UTF8)
  
• [Posi-Products Car Stereo Connectors] (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-MQKJZ6iyN7I/p_669PP500/Posi-Products-Car-Stereo-Connectors.html) to install the wiring harness
  
• [Metra AX-USB-35EXT 3.5mm iPod to USB Extension Cable - 27-Inch - Black] (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-AX-USB-35EXT-3-5mm-Extension-Cable/dp/B00L2SF64E?ie=UTF8) (Used to extend the USB from head unit to the unused ports in my car)
  
• [Scosche Axt12 12-Inch Antenna Extension Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Axt12-12-Inch-Antenna-Extension/dp/B000NWHVU2?ie=UTF8) (optional, but made it easier)
  
  
  For the steering wheel controls
  
  
• [Metra Axxess ASWC-1 Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface] (http://www.amazon.com/Axxess-ASWC-1-Universal-Steering-Interface/dp/B00B4PJC9K?ie=UTF8)
  
• [Metra 70-8114 Steering Wheel Control Wire Harness with RCA for 2003-Up Select Toyota/Scion/Lexus Vehicles] (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-8114-Steering-Control-Vehicles/dp/B0064J4LOM?ie=UTF8)
  
  
  I also installed the [OttoNavi Prius Backup Camera] (http://www.ottonavi.com/Toyota-Prius-2009-2013-Back-Up-Camera-p/ty0913pr-kdcmrcxx.htm) but is out of stock now.

cool, so would this do the trick -
https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-0400ATCFH16-5-Fuse-Holder-Gauge/dp/B008CVPE8C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493947984&sr=8-1&keywords=16+gauge+fuse

I had a similar issue with my XJ. Electronically there is no other form of resistance on the wire when off then the switch and over time it can wear out just like any other component. I installed this wiring harness that added relays to the circuit. not only does it brighten up your headlights but it removes the load from your switch. Its a really simple install, the hardest part is taking off the grill.

My plan was to use one of those generic harnesses you can get on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-MIC-B1002-Wiring-Harness-Waterproof/dp/B00O72R7Z8/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00O72R7Z8&pd_rd_r=EMCEVT45F8CJRMC2888D&pd_rd_w=iMy2G&pd_rd_wg=ob0Kh&psc=1&refRID=EMCEVT45F8CJRMC2888D

Generally for that kind of connection, you'll have a male and female end where the black and red wires switch so red is always hot and black is always ground. Dig this picture from Amazon with the same style of connection.

https://www.amazon.com/Pc160-Gauge-Quick-Disconnect-Harness/dp/B006ZOIJ0S

It's from Octane Lighting:

LINK

(Pair) 5''x7'' 6''x7'' High Low... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRXTX32?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

SAMLIGHT Led Light Bar 2 PCS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077VDYFWW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O72R7Z8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Wiring harness for the fog lamps

this

From memory/Amazon history, here's what I installed:

• Kenwood DDX6704
  
• DKMUS Double Din Radio Stereo Installation Panel
  
• Maestro ADS-MSW Universal Analog Steering Wheel Interface
  
• Metra TYTO-01 JBL Amplifier Interface Harness
  
• Also bought this but I don't think I used it...

RioRand Dual USB 12v to 5v 3a transformer; Scosche 16ga fuse holder with two right angle usb cables from startech.com

I installed this one on my beater truck. Looks to be available for under $100. Also there's a youtube video on how to install it. Just wire it into one of the backup lights (I used a T-Tap) and it will only come on when you put it in reverse.

I got mine from Octane, 1 for our jeep and 1 for our 76 motorhome. H4 100w Ceramic Fused PnP Heavy Duty Automotive Wiring Harness Headlight Foglight Booster Relay 12v https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMN30HY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_voo4wbV1EG5FJ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P29X4G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_RsQDub1QPR7JG

That's the exact harness I bought.

H4 100w Ceramic Fused PnP Heavy Duty Automotive Wiring Harness Headlight Foglight Booster Relay 12v https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMN30HY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CgnMybDSS3FBF

Arb is overpriced.

Its this one here, for the 300w max, while the light bar is only abour 120W

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O72R7Z8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The diagram for the wiring is the 4th pic down

I used this light bar, and this wire harness and switch.

I got the idea from a thread over at focusst.com and the whole install took 6 hours max for me.

This reverse harness made it all plug-n-play. Only thing I had to do was solder the cable providing power to the camera to the harness.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWLA3T0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P29X4G/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/184-6657873-1060049

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

I just bought a 07 FZ6 and my blinkers/hazards were not working. I was at wits end because everything checked out. Turns out my signal relay (a 2 pin connector) was messed up.

Ordered http://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Electronic-Flasher-Motorcycle-Signal/dp/B00RM26LXO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453800145&sr=8-3&keywords=motorcycle+signal+relay and pluged it in and now im blinking again.

dont know if this applies to your older bike though

Edit: My running lights, tail and brake were all working. Just no blinky

Unfortunately if you are on a paved road, its illegal to have auxiliary lights turned on (unless its a private road). Have you considered upgrading to an H4 harness on your lights with relays?

http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4GGGGG
Also, how old are the current headlights? Over time, bulbs get dim. If they are really old, you may just need new lights