Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement clutches & parts

Hey there-- I had a 2000 Explorer Sport with a 5-speed. If yours is like mine was (and mine was identical to the 2000 Ranger) this might help. The shifter was stiff moving between gears, and sometimes I had to pump the clutch pedal to get it to move in or out of gear, especially when stopped.

The clutch is hydraulic.

The master cylinder is oriented in such a way that if the seals on the master cylinder piston are starting to fail, it has a tendency to pull air into the master cylinder, which gets trapped at the top of the piston, causing the clutch to get spongy and not fully disengage when you press the pedal all the way to the floor. Sometimes pumping it a few times will help temporarily, but it always comes back. You cannot bleed this bubble out of the system by pumping the clutch and using the bleeder screw.

This video shows the first thing I tried. It lets the air out of the top of the master cylinder without removing the cylinder from the car. It's awkward, difficult and messy. You'll want to cover the driver's side floor with a plastic trash bag and put something absorbent on top, like paper towels, to protect your carpet.

This worked for me... temporarily. IF THIS WORKED, chances are your master cylinder seals are going, which is why there was air in the system in the first place.

The permanent solution, for me, was to replace the master cylinder. It came complete with a fluid reservoir and the hydraulic line that goes all the way down to the quick-disconnect check valve at the slave cylinder on the clutch. It cost something like $65, and looks like this. Double-check to make sure that's the right one for your truck. When it arrived, I filled the system and did a full bench-bleed like this:

Ranger clutch bench bleed.

Hope this helps!

Anytime you're dealing with wear components, picking them up from a scrap yard is sketchy at best. So brake pads, clutch, flywheel,that kind of stuff you want new.

Exedy usually makes good clutches at a reasonable price.

https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-CLUTCH-08022-92-00-HONDA/dp/B078X6NWPV

When you do the clutch you either need to get the flywheel machined flat or replace it.

https://www.kseriesparts.com/EXE-FWHDC01.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwkcblBRB_EiwAFmfyy46fIk2nHZfuXpk2irDuHJusu8xxe5hvp2bTzJWdLe2zQ05m4rk9khoCTW8QAvD_BwE

Something that is designed to continue functioning in the same shape rather than wearing down over time? I would be happy picking them up from a scrap yard if I was confident in identifying parts that are in good shape. Ignition cylinder and distributor I would take from a scrap yard if I found a good one.

Simple answer... the LUK 07-202 kit. Good Brand, great price, very complete.

We needed a clutch kit a couple years ago on our 2006 v6 and the LUK kit was the most complete OEM type clutch (and a good brand). The later v6's have a dual mass (not easily turned) flywheel so this kit having the flywheel is great.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K0TWU6

The feel is OEM like and no issues with the install. We only have about 43k miles on the clutch kit so I can't speak for it's true longevity

I put in a LUK in mine as a daily about 4 months ago and it feels quite nice.

 

It softened the clutch a little bit, but otherwise, it's a pretty great replacement, especially because the kit has all you need and it is at a very reasonable price (in comparison to every other replacement clutch out there).


I bought this one on amazon

This happened to me this past winter. Exact same noise. It's the pilot bearing, which is probably frozen onto the input shaft of the tranny at this point. All you need is a new clutch. A great OEM style clutch is the EXEDY KMZ03. I used it on my 1999 and it feels great and has great reviews for longevity.

If the pilot bearing IS frozen onto the input shaft, you will know that when you try to pry the trans off of the block, and it won't go much past 3/4 of an inch. This took me weeks to figure out what was going on in the bell housing, but if you sneak a wrench through the hole that the clutch lever goes into, you can unbolt the clutch spring assembly from the pressure plate and that will allow the trans to be removed. Be very careful not to torque the trans too much when prying, as you can bend the input shaft which would leave you without a trans.

I used a Dremel cutting wheel to cut the pilot bearing off of the input shaft once I got the transmission off of the block.

I hope this helps! Feel free to PM me if you need any info or pictures etc.

Edit: You will also want to get a new flywheel, or get your existing one resurfaced, depending on its wear.

Here is the link for the clutch kit, it is on sale on Amazon. Note that it does not include the flywheel, but includes all of the other necessary bearings and parts.

First what year is it?
Replace the clutch, flywheel, and transmission is the obvious advise. You could rebuild the transmission, but it's always less stress to just put in a new one and know it will last. Also possibly check the transmission mounts if they are worn it could possibly explain third popping out.
You can do this all at one time with the help with another person. Since you have no experience try finding someone with experience. If you don't know anyone go to a local car club's website or even go to drive in car show and just ask around if someone can help. Car guys are generally awesome and want to teach. You can rent tools, but honestly I would invest in the proper tools, and never have to take your cars to the shop again (Unless it's something crazy).

Here's some links but I don't the year so these might not help:

http://customdc5.my-php.net/diy/clutch/

http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KHC10-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5GA0C

http://acurazine.com/forums/performance-parts-modifications-126/diy-manual-transmission-clutch-replacement-removal-833245/

http://www.purzauto.com/PartDetails.aspx?sku=3331191&MakeModelID=1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=googlebase&utm_campaign=shopping&source=gmc&gclid=CP2HusXEpsICFUQV7Aodw0gAjw

You can check which ECU you have(or swap it if need be) in 5 min. It's located under the passenger side kick panel, it's that small panel under the gloveback and right next to the door. If I recall correctly I think you should have a P2E ECU, there should be some kind of ID sticker on the ECU that will tell you this.

If this isn't the problem, two things to check are your ignition timing($50 or so at a shop) and the IACV(idle air control valve), disassembling and cleaning the IACV is relatively easy, I'd do this first as it's common for them to get dirty.

As far as clutch changes, I'd recommend an exedy kit, this is what Honda used for the oem clutches and will save you a bundle over buying parts at the dealer. Something like this should be fine: http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-08022-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DCO4/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&Make=Honda%7C59&Model=Civic%7C752&Year=2000%7C2000&carId=002&n=15684181&s=automotive Then don't forget to have your flywheel resurfaced before you put it back together.

I haven't had this done yet, but what research I've done on the topic leads me to believe that you could probably shave a couple hundred off the price. Maybe start by bringing your own clutch?

From what I've heard the Exedy clutch IS the OEM part. They're pretty cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KMZ03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DS7K/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Mazda%7C80&Model=Miata%7C1110&Year=2001%7C2001&carId=002&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive

Also: Since information is your best weapon in negotiations, here's some weaponry: http://www.miata.net/garage/clutch_replacet.html
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=427870

From what you described, your car is in need of a clutch replacement. A clutch replacement does not cost anywhere near $2k, in fact I just looked up the parts on Amazon and a clutch kit + flywheel + new tranny fluid is $146.
https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-08014-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DC9O/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Honda%7C59&Model=Accord%7C751&Year=1999%7C1999&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=10&vehicleType=automotive


Even though you say you're not handy, it's worth watching a few clutch videos on youtube so that you'll be somewhat informed when talking to the mechanic.

As a DIY mechanic, I could replace a clutch by myself in a day in the driveway as food for thought.

Good luck!

I got my replacement kit off Amazon (2004 6s) and paid under $200 for part. Here is what I found for you. Good luck

Thank you for taking the time to reply.

Ok, yeah he's charging 780 for the labor, 80 for shop supplies and 100 for turning the flywheel. 500 for the clutch kit seems to be where things get off base.

What am I missing here, it looks like the oem clutch kit is $135 with prime shipping on Amazon.

Looks like that is a 3rd party sale, but the part number is correct. I should just buy this now, right? And return if it's not right or busted up.

That is the one, pretty much a OEM replacement. When I had my NA legacy I used the stage 1 kit 15801 and it took care of a cold clutch judder I was having with the stock unit. I drove that clutch HARD for 70,000 miles and it still grabbed like the day I had it installed. It is a little pricer at $320 but worth it if you can swing it.

Is this the new fork? Would the clutch kit's bearings fit this one or the original design?

https://www.amazon.ca/Genuine-Mazda-LF01-16-520-Clutch-Lever/dp/B00KWELJSG

I custom made these for about $40, but I found something similar for you off of Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PH165PQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xkbwDbF4BXKF5

The hardest part was wrapping the leather into the tiny gap between the fabric and the plastic, the hard plastic really doesn’t like to bend

Cool, soooo..this is what I should get, right? I figured it would be a lot more expensive than that! It's only $276 on Amazon. I swear I called the Subaru shop the other day and they quoted me at around $1,500. Maybe they had plans to replace other clutch assembly parts as well?

This one. Feel free to PayPal me the price difference! :P

https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KMZ03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DS7K

clutch parts are so cheap for a Civic, you are better off doing the flywheel along with the clutch kit.

LUK clutch kit

Sachs flywheel

But you might want to check with a local machine shop about getting the stock flywheel resurfaced.

Last time I got a new clutch was 2013, I replaced the flywheel with this EXEDY FF01T Chromoly Racing Flywheel, and the clutch with EXEDY KSB03 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit. Best clutch/flywheel combo I've had, including the original. I'm not really into high performance though, so I'm not sure why I got a "racing" flywheel. I think at the time it wasn't that expensive compared to whatever else was out there. Now it's $309, I think I paid more like $290.

It's buttery smooth though. My original clutch had a terrible grab and judder in low gears, and my second clutch was grabby and juddery in a different way, maybe even more annoying. This one has been a gem since day one.

Throw out bearing. Save up for the stock replacement excedy clutch. It's 100$.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001B5DS7K?pc_redir=1410435831&robot_redir=1

Check your year, 1.6 used a different clutch.

Exedy makes the OEM clutch so yup. Here it is for quite a good price I don't know who made the OEM clutch master and slave, I just ended up buying Beck Arnley ones.
EDIT: I should add that these are for the M2U4 ATTS equipped transmission from the Type SH. You'd have to check if they match the ones for the base model if that's what you have because the bases have a different transmission.

I had the same issue. The clutch pedal was broke and master cylinder was shot. Got a both on Amazon. Judging by the age of you car it is possible it is just the master cylinder. I got the rebuid kit and it was pretty straight forward. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-CMK116394-Clutch-Master-Cylinder/dp/B001PYG6PS?keywords=rx8+clutch+master&qid=1536430333&sr=8-5&ref=mp_s_a_1_5

Get this

http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KSB04-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5EMS4/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Subaru%7C13&Model=Legacy%7C64&Year=2005%7C2005&carId=001&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive


Cheap and effective , resurface your flywheel and tell your friend he is stupid

Aaah, 1300$ is way too much for that, my mechanic guy never saw a miata before, and he could do the job without a fuss. The miata is famous for being easy to work on. Was that OEM parts for 450$? Exedy kits are going for 120$-200$, lots of us are going with exedy

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/15-1014.html

https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KMZ03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DS7K

GEARWRENCH Fan Clutch Service Set - 41580D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NICENU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IK6xDbY0B6V6A

Something like this (depending on make/model of your vehicle) is designed to hold the pulley so you can turn the bolt. I'm not sure if this will help what you're doing, but check it out...

http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KSB03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5EMO8/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&Make=Subaru|13&Model=Impreza|62&Year=2002|2002&carId=002&n=15684181&s=automotive

Labor was almost $450 for me.

https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KSB03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5EMO8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=wrx+clutch+act&qid=1556119337&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Labor sounds about right - 4 hours total work.

Your clutch kit is about $7 cheaper than my NA6 OEM clutch kit, however your kit still shouldn't cost over $300 (for an OEM kit), that's just ridiculous.

A clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, TOB) will run about $300. IIRC Subaru says the flywheel isn't supposed to be resurfaced, so a new flywheel will run about $300. Keep in mind that dealers use OEM parts which are typically more expensive than aftermarket even though they might not necessarily be better.

I believe that OEM clutch replacement would run about $8-900 in parts. Then it's a 5-6 hour job at $100/hr. So $1400 doesn't seem all that absurd of a quote from a dealer.