(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best bike ahndlebars & stems

I'll probably have the LBS do the BB with me watching, but it will be good for later that way. Seems to definitely be the recommendation to go BSA, so thats the way I'm going.

Regarding the headset, thats this guy you're referring to, right?

Regarding the crank and shifters, I have heard good things about MicroShift for the Arsis and White, the common comment though is that they have a long throw. I'm determined to try them out, but I'm well aware they may be cast off quickly. As far as the crank goes though, I'm open to using the R700, I'll take a look and see what I can find.

And good call on the pedals, I didn't put much thought into them. My PD-T700's are double sided, something I really like. The XT-M780 would fit nicely.

First and foremost, the most important thing for comfort is a bike that fits you properly and is adjusted to you. If it's not a shop that does fittings, then you might want to consider a different shop. I love my first LBS, the people there are awesome, but I would've been saved a world of issues if I had been properly fit on my hybrid the day I bought it.

Padded shorts help but they're not really a requirement until you're spending a lot of time in the saddle.

Now, I'm not saying go out and buy all this stuff. You might need none of it to start with, but all the stuff I've bought....

The cheapest pair of shorts found with good padding start at $50, and they're Bontrager (Trek's house brand) ones I bought from one of my local bike shops.

I've had my eye on these for some time as a second pair, to see if the chamois is as good or better. Still $50.

Super soft squishy gel saddles are crap. Do not buy them.

Stock saddles almost always suck, ask your LBS for recommendations. If they're a Trek dealer, and it's a Bontrager brand saddle, you can always return it within 30 days and try another.

No matter what grips come on your bike, these are probably world's better. These were literally the first thing I ordered for my wife's Trek 6.2 when she complained her hands were hurting.

These are twice as expensive but the bar ends are really nice for longer rides, to give you more hand positions to work with. It's the same base grip, just with added bar ends. I've had them on my hybrid for some time now.

I still rock this saddle on my hybrid. It's comfortable now for short-ish rides w/o shorts, and I can do about 30 miles on it without trouble.

This is the saddle on my cross bike that I put a hundred miles a week on. It's a bit squishy, but firm.

I wear these gloves when I ride as well, but that's more because I have issues with carpal tunnel and this keeps the pressure off.

As far as tops go, I just started wearing jerseys (I'm still 25ish lbs overweight), this is the one I went with. I'm not saying go for one right away, they're fairly tight and I'm still kind of uncomfortable in it along w/ bike shorts, but I've always been one of those "uncomfortable in his body" fat guys, who wore over-sized clothes in a poor attempt to hide it.

I rode in stuff from Old Navy until recently. Over my bike shorts, I wore some knee-length running shorts, and for a top I just used one of their $10 Go-Dri t-shirts, to wick sweat.

Cotton sucks. You'll be way more comfortable in a shirt that's designed to keep you cool and dry.

Oh, and one last thing, if you get bike shorts, you don't wear underwear. They are your underwear.


I've spent a lot of money on cycling over the months, but it's my primary hobby now, so I don't mind.

With old style bars like those the typical setup is with the flat section of the drops pointing approximately at the rear brake boss, it looks like you are pretty close to that, and the brake lever position is pretty standard for that type of bar. It is common to find the older style of bar more uncomfortable compared to the modern style where it's easier to ride on the hoods.

Modern compact style bars almost are almost all 31.8mm diameter at the clamp, where as your bike will be 26mm or 25.4mm.

If your bike has 25.4mm diameter bars, your best bet is probably these bars. They aren't exactly modern compact bend but they should give similar comfort benefits and ability to ride easily on the hoods.

If they are 26mm, these bars are probably your best bet.

You could convert the bike to 31.8mm to have more choice of bars but you would need at the least a new stem as well.

You shouldn't need to replace your brake levers - apart from the central section where the stem clamps, road bars are almost all a standard diameter of 23.4mm.

Tools. Most people don't have proper bike tools, so that would be a great surprise. You can either get a decent multi-tool (get one with a chain-breaker and tire wrenches) or a variety of Park Tools. Here are some Park Tools that I find invaluable: 3-way hex, chain cleaning tools, pedal wrench, and/or a chain whip

This bar tape is amazing 3mm Fizik performance. Tape should be replaced semi-regularly, but most people don't, so it would be a great surprise gift. Black looks good on almost every bike.

If I'm not mistaken, the vfr has clipons, so you will have to buy handlebars and clamps, as well as new brake lines. I'm changing my clipons to handlebars on my SV so these links are for that bike specifically, but the process should be pretty similar, although it helps that I can get a longer clutch cable from the naked version of my bike.

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72804

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=137019

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=131401

(probably the best guide) http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/5-tweaking-tuning-tricking/18709-%246-98-handlebar-conversion-clipons-come-off-superbike-bars-go.html

I'm buying all the parts new, but if you can find a guy that saves motorcycle parts (maybe he used to own a shop or flips bikes) that will save you money. Here is what I have bought:

Clamps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006OP39US/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

bars: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050HC39E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

custom sized brake lines http://www.ebay.com/itm/252726569389?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

new grips http://www.ebay.com/itm/322124605265?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=511045966527&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The quill stem inserts, doesn't fit on. The threadless headsets and the quill stem headsets are not interchangeable, so you would have to make some special efforts.
Here's a pic and some additional info:

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/components-wrenching/how-measure-quill-stem-125691.html

You insert the stem into the steerer, and then tighten it down.
Alternatively, you could buy a stem extender, such as this,

http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cromo-Quill-Stem-Extender/dp/B000AO7GXK/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1412571159&sr=8-13&keywords=Stem+extender

install it, and then install a threadless stem over it, such as this:

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-Pulsion-Riser-Stem/dp/B005DNTNPW/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1412571477&sr=1-1&keywords=bicycle+stem

That way, you can have your cake and eat it, too. However, the original design is still quite good, and your vintage bike will look better original, unless you want it different. The quill stem is still used on some road bikes (and a few hybrids and mtb's), and works very well.
Good luck. Ask more if you need to do so.

Something like this might bring it up a little further. It's a 90mm long 45 degree angle stem.
https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Mountain-Handlebar-Extender-Components/dp/B075XJJ4CJ/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1506605322&sr=8-12&keywords=31.8%2Briser&th=1&psc=1

Combine it with something like this and it would get even higher.
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=51573

5.5" rise 31.8mm clamp bars
https://www.amazon.com/Cycle-Group-BX-HB1331855-BK-Maximus-Handle/dp/B00B90HCKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506606474&sr=8-1&keywords=BX-HB1331855-BK&th=1&psc=1

Another issue you're going to run into is cable length. The cable on your left hand brake looks like it's just long enough to fit the current height. If you push it up with new bars you're going to need a new cable. With a 5" rise I'd be willing to bet you're going to need all new cables. Unless you can do it yourself you may want to sell your bike and buy a Roll like your friends. That's going to get expensive if a shop is doing it.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Alloy-Bicycle-Raiser/dp/B000FGYKWS/ A stem riser might help get your existing bars up higher.

> everyday for years (including extensively using drops as a messenger), just not a fan of them - I don't enjoy the hand positions nor braking positions. The only time i've ever enjoyed drops is when I ditched the road lever and set up some cross tops.

Sounds to me like your extension may be too great if you find riding and braking from the hoods uncomfortable. Or perhaps you've only been using non-aero levers which don't have as comfy as position to ride on as modern aero levers?

Solutions:

• A shorter extension stem, and maybe a more upright one. Something like the Kalloy AL-222 may get your bars in a more comfortable position for cheap.
  
• Modern aero levers like these.
  
• Non-drop bar: I think the Casey's Crazy Bars are a decent option with 23.8mm compatibility.

Move both brakes to right hand side,

you can try a thick grip, foam, they help https://www.amazon.com/ESI-Grips-MTB-COL-Chunky-Grip/dp/B00554FMUY

if the thick grip is not enough, you need some kind of system built to keep your hand clicked into the handle bar, look into one handed riders and see what they use. quite a few youtubers only use one hand on the bars! this may be something to look into, use your left hand only for minor stability and learn how to use the right only.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqsSEqhy9Mo

Question: The Earl comes with a front / rear brake. Are you planning on re-using the levers / brakes?

If so, I would say shell out some money to get Nitto RB-021. I like these bullhorns because they provide a variety of hand positions.

If not, I would say you may have to get some Origin 8 bullhorns and a brake setup from Bike Island

Regarding the cog, I've seen them ranging anywhere from $7 to $20 and up.

Picking the cog will depend on what gear ratio you want. You can use this calculator to figure that out the appropriate cog to get.

The next natural question is how do you pick what gear ratio. Think about your current gearing on your 44x17 bike. Do you find that it's just right? Get a 17t cog. Think it's too hard to pedal with? Get a larger cog - 18t and up. Think it's too easy to pedal with? Get a smaller cog - 16t and below.

I like this one the best. More durable than the cloth material and good when it's wet outside.

https://www.amazon.com/Zipp-Service-Course-Bar-Tape/dp/B0063HO6JA/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1550859934&sr=1-1&keywords=cyclocross+bicycle+bar+tape

They have a smooth version as well.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: 1


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To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

So I drilled two holes in top triple to fit these 7/8'' universal risers. Be sure to use lock nuts and Red Locktite when fixing the risers to the top triple clamp. I used this 7/8'' handlebar. The Brake lines were bought used from an 04-06 SV650 which came stock with a longer brake line. Since my bike is an 06 SV650S that brake line fit my bike. The brake line is easy to find used on ebay or you can buy new if you feel uncomfortable about that. The Clutch Cable and Throttle Cable both need to be longer as well, so I bought this Clutch Cable, Motion Pro 04-0331 and this Throttle Cable, Motion Pro 04-0316. I have novice mechanical skills and it took me 3 hours in total. Not too hard in my opinion. What I did though is bought a spare
top triple tree clamp and drilled into that one so that I could ride my bike while preparing for this modification.

If I could make a recommendation on this front, I would recommend the Nitto Noodle bar, model 177. It's very snazzy looking, and it has HUUUUUUUGE ramp (the part that, on bikes with hooded brakes, sits behind the hood.) They're the most comfy I've found. And you can get them in 41, 44, 46 and 48cm. I like 44, and that just happens to be my chest size, so that may be a good metric to aim for.

http://www.amazon.com/Nitto-Noodle-26-0mm-Silver-Alloy/dp/B001F6M9C0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1299470896&sr=1-1

That's the one I was talking about. =)

Maybe something like Cinelli's white cork tape? It has just the extra bit of texture with the natural cork speckling that would tie it into the saddle. Raw cork would be too dark, I think, but white tape generally matches quite well with most bicycles. Dunno how you feel about cotton tape, but I found this googling around and the cotton fabric seems pretty similar to the saddle.

Old steel singletracks are awesome commuter bikes. <3 Ever thought of getting a kalloy stem? Not sure if you feel stretched on that awesome 90s geo.

Rando bar flairs out at the bar end. It's not a regular straight up/down drop. Because of this, when you drop, it's more stable. It's also a bit more comfortable than regular drop bar. I have a 46cm.

I've bought a Easton carbon bar, and a Nitto's noodle.

Carbon bar is interesting. As it's less heat conductive than alu., it's more comfy in winter. This is not on my commute bike but I use the bike for commute once in a while.

Nitto noodle, I just put it on, and it's compact (means short reach / short drop). This is also good for commute.

If you are going to use the stem adpater, Velo Orange's adapter is highly recommended. I just bought another (to go with Nitto bar.).

Interested in replacing the road bars on my bike with a riser. I’ve already got a brake set on my bike. Planning on buying a riser, a short pull lever, and lock on grips. Is there anything else I’ll need to get? Can I re-use the cable/housing that was on the original brake set?

In terms of the hardware I’ll be picking up…what width and how much rise would you recommend for the riser bar? Currently looking at this one. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for the lever? No idea where to even start looking for that. Where can I find out what clamp size I’ll need?

Will I need any special tools to get this done?

Yeah, I don't see why not. A shim doesn't noticeably effect performance at all, especially on a commuter bike. Something like this will do the job perfectly as an adapter. Or, you can get a new quill. Either way, you'll spend less money by purchasing all that, than buying a new 1" threadless fork.

EDIT: 1" threadless carbon fiber fork.

I got something like this for my bike:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002I7O52C/ref=twister_B002IXX05E
Of course, now it's wrapped with bar-end brakes.

I think the catching one on trees is more of a joke/myth than something that actually happens. If you think about the plane of typical (forget the formal term) u shaped handles that a lot of racing bikes have, they have basically the same plane as bullhorns when looked at from above.

And, if you consider that regular straight bars will have about the same clearance to the side of the bike... there's really not much difference. If you're going to catch something inside a bullhorn, really, it'd probably throw you off using regular handlebars too (as I doubt you'll recover from how far your wheel would be wrenched to the side along with the associated sudden drop on momentum in any case).

Bullhorns aren't for everyone, but for someone like me, they provide a second position and allow me to stay comfortable, and the risks of riding with them are mostly a joke/myth.

Zipp Service Course is great tape, and they offer a CX tape as well which is thicker with more grip. Don't pay for Lizard Skins. ~$20 on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Zipp-Service-Course-Bar-Tape/dp/B0063HO6JA

Knowing nothing else except your price point (which I think is on the high end for a headset...*), I'd suggest one of these, which ever is compatible with your frame and fork.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XW7S06/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687602&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005DUUTXK&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=05CC8B8APBAZ8982V5E3

• At this point, $75 is about $50 away from a bombproof Chris King or Cane Creek 110 or something in the $120 range. Other wise, I've had much success with the Origin8 Pro Sealed headset, about $25 - $30.

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

Love'em. They take on a nice patina and hold even more grip in the cold and wet.

I suggest first wrapping the bars with some cheap cork wrap (I use this stuff for $9) and then sewing the leather grips on over it. The leather is cushy, but thin, so if you wrap it over the bare handlebar you won't get much vibration dampening or cushion. The extra-layer of cork wrap really makes it a lot more comfortable to ride with. Wear some work gloves when you do the sewing though since you'll have to pull the thread tightly to get the leather to stretch.

Here's a set I did a month or two ago (left is after an application of sno-seal).

I'd like to put a shallow drop bar on my 2014 Bianchi Pista and more comfortable brake hoods. Will this combo https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003U9ROKC/ref=pd_sim_468_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F1X4QSZ08MYR2RW219MJ of brake levers work with https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-Fit-Compact-Handlebars/dp/B00SYZTLVW handlebars? If so, can I use existing brake cables or will I need to replace the cables as well?

Kudos for getting back to it!

Perhaps try one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Bicycle-Extender-Handlebar/dp/B000FHBED0

I put one on my wife’s bike and it helped her get a better position.

i bought these cause a friend of mine uses them. but i'll definitely look into these!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4KZV7Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You might want to think about one of these.

I've gone both ways on this, working from pretty much the same motivation as you with my intent, frankly, being in large part wanting the more modern look.

I put a new fork and a threadless headset into an old Ibis and it worked fine but cost me some money and didn't have any functional advantage over the adapter approach I took on a Giant Rincon of the same vintage. If I were doing it again I'd probably shell out the $20 for an adapter and the $15 for a 1 inch headset and I'd see if that got me where I wanted, because if it didn't I could always go back and do a 1 1/8 fork...

Amazon cheaply bar, nothing special. I just ordered their bullhorn bar too. I wanna try everything haha.

UPANBIKE Fixed Gear Bike Road... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734Y1MWP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

25.4mm version to fit mtb components.

Bar tape will do the trick for sure, I like Cinelli's Cork tape. The track grips that are on the Feather are not the most practical for casual street riding.

If you don't want to replace the fork, you can also use a stem extender. However, some people doubt their safety and you definitely shouldn't use them to raise more than a couple inches.

Something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Alloy-Bicycle-Stem-Raiser/dp/B000FHBED0

https://www.amazon.com/ESI-Grips-MTB-COL-Chunky-Grip/dp/B00554FMUY

Get these silicon grips and cut to size. Best grips I've ever used. Tons of cool colors for your kid to choose.

Standing fan with remote (similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V8Y64Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CGRSBbKHFFK0M)

6 pack of sweat bands to rotate (rinse after every ride) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X93QKQD?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Face towel for top tube & face

Finish line polish for frame (not sure if it actually works) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQKBMWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PERSBbF8K11BX

Fizik 3mm bar tape (sweat doesn't seem to penetrate this tape): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AONXPTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PKRSBb7S8B939

I don't know how anyone can survive a trainer ride without a sweat band (at a minimum).

Good of you to put a potential touring setup through it's paces. I'd be very wary of substantial hand numbness with any bar after an hour in the saddle. It will get unbearable on tour.

I never took to butterfly bars and ended up going flat bar with Ergon grips. No problems since. I no longer use bar ends, either. Just one position for hours (which I actually really like). Made the same alteration to my gal's butterfly equipped touring rig and she's now an Ergon convert as well.

They do sell Ergon's with bar ends to offer multiple hand positions, too.

https://www.amazon.com/Ergon-GR9576-P-GP5-Grips/dp/B00P49W0HS?th=1&psc=1

my Virtue Truck with accessories from left to right:

Thule Yepp Maxi Rack Mount Child Seat

Thule Yepp Maxi Easyfit Adapter

Schwinn Kids Bike Helmet - Teddy Bear

Brooks Saddle (used - exact make unknown)

Velo Orange Copehagen Double Kick

RockBros MTB Pedals

Origin8 Urban-Pro Riser Handlebar

Origin8 Time Clock Bell

Cork Chop Bicycle Grips

21x15" Wald 157 Giant Delivery Basket

15x15” Bungee Net

Kobra Ultra Bright Bike Light - 1200 Lumens


I love everything currently on her, but may end up going a bit wider on the bars now that I'm riding the rig fully loaded.

Since you where looking at Amazon, these two look like what you're looking for

1

2

While that would work it's not very elegant.

I suggest you start by flipping the stem to angle upwards would increase the handlebar height by about 2.5cm. If that's still not enough, you could try a stem like this.

You need a 1" quill stem or a threadless adapter like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037N6PEC?pc_redir=1412262710&robot_redir=1

The adapter lets you use modern bars if you do desire, as there are no quill stems for 31.8 bars.

It’s a pretty relaxed set up. I may swap it out for something that gives me a little more reach but we’ll see. I’ve only ridden the bike once since I finished it.

Wake MTB Stem 45 Degree 31.8 90mm Bike Stem Mountain Bike Stem Short Handlebar Stem Riser for Most Bicycle, Road Bike, MTB, BMX, Fixie Gear, Cycling ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0772TDTCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_XFrGhHRY3pAOO

You don't necessarily need a vintage bike with a quill stem in order to get the handlebar rise you want.

You can buy stems that angle up a lot.
https://www.greggscycles.com/product/bontrager-comp-stem-258620-1.htm?variations=180978,179697,184777,184440,184883&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpq2Ql-i34wIVCNbACh2bQgJCEAQYBSABEgKV2fD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/Wake-Mountain-Handlebar-Bicycle-Aluminum/dp/B0772TDTCC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=bicycle+stem+31.8+rise&qid=1563224310&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

You can also get handlebars which sweep back towards you.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Origin8-Hbar-Or8-City-ALY-TRANSIT-Ergo-31-8x630-Bk/1077526221?iid=362416426523&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=362416426523&targetid=544793688371&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9028317&poi=&campaignid=1497774175&mkgroupid=59509629802&rlsatarget=pla-544793688371&abcId=1139476&merchantid=6562274&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpYzc2Oi34wIVRtbACh2pcwq8EAQYBSABEgJFrvD_BwE

Handlebar Height and Upright Riding Posture
http://www.pedalpt.com/upright-bicycling/

Lastly, you may be able to put BMX cruiser handlebars (risers with a cross-bar) on a bike to bring the grips up and back. Example:
https://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?pid=6028017#p6028017

Hm, so since you have had one I'll just show you what I was looking at for a headset (if you don't mind).

Headset

Stem adapter

Stem

Zipp Bar Tape or Zipp Course Bar Tape

I used a stem adapter made my Origin 8! http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Threaded-Threadless-Quill-Adapter/dp/B0037N6PEC

Those are just basic crappy rubber grips. They're not made by Surly.

I like and recommend the ESI Chunky grips which are silicone and wear much longer than ordinary rubber. They can be cut down to use with grip shifters.

Won't need a new fork or headset, just a new adapter, and a new stem.

Out of curiosity, what Centurion did you pick up? I have an old '86 Time Machine I've been thinking about converting.