Reddit mentions: The best bike handlebars

So /r/bikewrench and /r/bicycling are much more active sub-reddits that you may see more attention on, but I can try to help you out here.

Switching the bars could require a few things:


Stem Size and by extension handlebar size: the Escape has a stem made for 31.8mm diameter handlebars with pretty large bars actually. Most drop bars you find will be 25.4mm at the stem and 23.8mm everywhere else. Any discrepancy can be an easy fix with some shims (either bought or made). It is also possible (according to Sheldon Brown) that your current bars may have very similar sizing to standard drop bars. The stem may also need to be shortened or lengthened to comfortably accommodate for the new handlebars and riding positions.


Braking: As you may or may not have noticed most drop bars come with brake levers that allow you to access the levers while riding on the drops. This is important because it allows you more leverage at the moments when you are going the fastest. Check out this image stolen from 'Lovley Bike' that shows the typical 'breaking on the drops' position.

While it is not necessary to have these brakes and the 'hoods' that accompany them it is an excellent idea and gives more hand positions! Alternatively it is possible to use levers only on the flats of the drop bars (but not the ones you currently have may need the aforementioned shims).

Shifting!
I see the Escape has Shimano M310 trigger shifters. Those also may have to go. They, like the brakes, can be mounted on the flats of the bar but it is only very low end bikes that do this to their riders. There are an ungodly number of ways to incorporate shifting on a bike with drop bars. You can integrate them into the brakes with STI's, stick them on the end of the bars with Bar End Shifters, Get them onto the stem like many vintage bikes Stem Shifters or get them on the down-tube for a classic look Down Tube Shifters...

That aside the only real options up there that you have for a conversion are Bar-end or "Brifters" Brake/Shifters...reusing your old ones could work but it would be inelegant.

Geometry MOST IMPORTANTLY! Your bike was designed to be ridden upright, the stem, top tube, every inch of the bike assumes the rider is using flat bars. There is no telling really what the ride will 'feel' like after you start riding on the hoods/drops. Its not as bad as most hybrids with front suspension but I could not tell you anything about how it might feel once the swap is made.


For moving forward I see a few options

Option 1 Quick and Dirty Get some drop bars and some old cans. Strip your current bars of components and install the drops(don't forget shims), If sheldon is correct about the size of over-sized road bikes all your old components should slide onto the flat part of the drops and just fit. It would be a unique way to ride but mostly functional...Personally I would have concerns about how safe it would be.

Option 2 More hand positions!
If what you want is more hand positions don't overlook bar end attachments:
Bar end attachments
Orgin 8 might actually have the answer to your prayers: Bolt On Drops

Option 3 Dress her like a roadie
Trying to make your hybrid into a road bike is usually not the right way to go but...with $10-30 for bars, and $100 for Shifters and Brakes, plus $10-20 for complete re-cabling across the bike (MTB and Road bikes use different cable ends) and of course labor if you aren't that handy. Tack on $10 for bar-tape to make her pretty and comfortable and you aren't that far in the hole.
You don't get off any easier for Bar Ends once you get the appropriate brakes its about the same. All that and your former hybrid could pass any scrutinizing test of a lycra-clad cyclist, you'd have yourself a certified road-bike. No promises on comfort!


This is just a vague indication though! For a real in-depth price assessment and Q&A please visit your local bike store

For my $00.02...Don't bother trying to convert them. Ride the bike you have the way it was intended to be ridden. If after a while you still feel like its lacking, throw on some bar ends for more hand positions, Still feel like its lacking? Go test-ride some road bikes to see if riding on the drops is right for you. I'm not talking about a test ride around the parking lot either! No less then 3 miles on that sucker, get a real feel for it. Love it!? Sell the Escape and do a TON of research into inexpensive road bikes. They are out there waiting for ya.

Hell yeah! I picked up the same bike a few months back when it was 4 days old in the shop. Awesome bike and the new Sora groupset is fantastic. The front derailleur has a little bit of a "cliff" to overcome for shifting up, but with some fine tuning you won't notice it unless you ride on another groupset.

I had the same soreness in my hands as well. I recommend new bar tape; the stock tape is hard as a brick and its a cheap upgrade. Depending on the phone you have (I personally have an iPhone) I highly recommend a phone mount designed to lock in. Do not* get a "general" mount. I broke my phone three times when I was sure it was secured in one of those. I personally use the Topeak Ridecase mount. Its secured to my stem and locks into the mount.

Some other first upgrades I highly recommend:

• New brakes! - The stock ones are crap "Made in China" brakes. Your brakes are your second most important safety device. Look to make this move first. Easiest move is to get better rubber pads. Salmon Pinks are highly recommended. For new calipers (stiffer) I recommend the 105 or Ultegras. You will immediately notice the stopping power difference. I know I did.
  
• New tires - The stock ones are soft and the sidewall may collapse slightly on hard turns. Just put some miles on them and swap them when you have the chance.
  
  Its an awesome bike and I have loved every second of it. To see the chain so shiny and clean makes me tear up a little bit.

Here's a Sheldon Brown Tom Deakins article about handlebars and hand positions. You should definitely read it!

I can only ride a bike with a straight bar for 15 miles or so without serious discomfort in my hands due to a lack of different hand positions. 20 miles becomes crippling pain.

Some people with the same problem have had great success with ergonomic grips similar to these

Others like some type of bar ends like these so they have variable hand positions. I have something like these on my mountain/beater bike with straight handlebars and they help maintain my comfort level tremendously when on that bike.

Some people really love trekking bars since they offer many hand positions and usually work well with the shifter and brake-lever components that come on bikes with straight bars, so the cost of changing things is minimal compared to changing to something like drop bars that usually need different shifters and brake levers.

For what it's worth, once I went to drop handlebars (i.e. "the kind that curl around") I haven't had a single problem, and I can now ride all day without any hand discomfort.

Hello! This is my second year bike commuting and I love it! The coldest days of the year in Baltimore look around -15C so it shouldn't be too bad! Things I use/suggest are the following

​

For you:

Bike helmet cover, something like this to keep in the warmth, but doesnt get too hot

Pair of ski goggles

Gloves

Buff

A pair of cycling only outdoor pants to wear as 'ski pants' over your regular pants like these

Wool socks (Costco has great merino wool ones)

​

For the bike:

Fenders

A nice set of lights like these

Bar mitts like these

​

And just make sure you keep up with cleaning the salt and grime off your bike!

​

Good luck!

I'm in Pittsburgh, which has less snow, but plenty of cold. For that part, it's a matter of finding the right combination of layers for your cold needs and covering exposed skin. I wear generic-brand buffs over my ears and face, and then good windproof gloves under a set of barmitts. And then I have a commute with plenty of hills to help me warm up. When everything is right, I've been pretty comfortable riding down to about 0-5F.

Falling snow isn't so much of an issue except that I will add clear goggles, otherwise going downhill will involve thousands of little pieces of ice jabbing into your eyes, which sucks. Fresh snow on the ground, up to an inch or so, is usually fine, but will make pedaling a little harder. Packed snow will make it much harder, but doesn't really hurt traction much so it's usually ok, until you find ice.

Ice on the ground is more challenging, and occasionally will make me sit a day out. However, my rule of thumb is that if the streets are plowed enough for cars to drive, then they are clear enough for me to ride, and that's the case way more frequently than not (in my city). If there is too much ice for that, then I don't trust ANYBODY out there and I'd rather walk/bus/stay home. Other options to deal with ice include getting studded tires or something with bigger tires (I have friends who commute on fatbike in the winter).

The final issue is that winter weather will play havoc on your bike's moving parts. You'll want to get it cleaned and lubed WAY more frequently than in the summer, especially if you get snow/ice on your chain.

I added a handle bar extender so I could mount 4 headlights. https://www.amazon.com/KBROTECH-Bicycle-Handlebar-Extender-Extension/dp/B06VW7GXM4/ My Bionx battery has a port for a 2000 lumen headlight when riding in places without a street light.

For the back I added three taillights, two with lasers. https://www.amazon.com/YJYdada-Bicycle-Projection-Safety-Warning/dp/B074752G5W/

https://www.amazon.com/ThorFire-220-Degree-Intensity-Bicycle-Install/dp/B06XXFX1KL

https://www.amazon.com/ThorFire-Rechargeable-Bicycle-Intensity-Flashlight/dp/B073W9SLRC

I then added spoke lighting for side visibility. https://www.amazon.com/LED-Bike-Spoke-Lights-Waterproof/dp/B074359W73

Love Brightz for frame lighting and ground effects. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrhhh1mZzbA

Just waiting for temperatures to warm up so I can ride after work.

Found this on sale last week. I plan to zip tie it to the back. https://www.amazon.com/Emergency-Roadside-Magnetic-Motorcycles-TechFloMo/dp/B0785DRQTL/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kt3it7cQ5rE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vtCj9JO4FM

I have received many compliments by cyclists, pedestrians and car drivers.

• The night visibility is greatly increased for safety and I'm amazed how many yield to me as I ride through.
  
  
• the local city puts on a few Bike Nights to encourage improved bike visibility and lighting.
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PX_IzrUBVRw
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDWP9DOkiik
  
  
• Love this guy's slogan.... "get lit or get hit". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tFyL7VaE7I
  
  
• I hear the occasional young girl screaming..... "MOM! I want a bike like that one".

With old style bars like those the typical setup is with the flat section of the drops pointing approximately at the rear brake boss, it looks like you are pretty close to that, and the brake lever position is pretty standard for that type of bar. It is common to find the older style of bar more uncomfortable compared to the modern style where it's easier to ride on the hoods.

Modern compact style bars almost are almost all 31.8mm diameter at the clamp, where as your bike will be 26mm or 25.4mm.

If your bike has 25.4mm diameter bars, your best bet is probably these bars. They aren't exactly modern compact bend but they should give similar comfort benefits and ability to ride easily on the hoods.

If they are 26mm, these bars are probably your best bet.

You could convert the bike to 31.8mm to have more choice of bars but you would need at the least a new stem as well.

You shouldn't need to replace your brake levers - apart from the central section where the stem clamps, road bars are almost all a standard diameter of 23.4mm.

I commute by bike through the winter this will be the 4 year. My ride is short, only 2 miles.

These are awesome, https://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Bar-Mitts-Small-Medium/dp/B009F9ZQH4/
when it gets real cold you can put a pair of light weight gloves on under them. But above ~15 F the bar mitts are enough.

Because I have such a short ride I haven't had to worry about venting much but I've taken a few longer winter rides and have had to remove layers. This year I'm thinking of getting better gear. I went the cheep route on rain gear and I don't really love it... but it works.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006IOMOZQ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006IOMAL4

The jacket is fine but doesn't have pockets. The pants cut to large for cycling. I also have decided that I really don't like the black for visibility reasons. They do keep me dry.

I've been using a pair of safety glasses from lowes as a windscreen. They work fine, gets foggy sometimes.
I need a better solution for my feet.
I don't have showers at work and it's nice to not have to change and carry extra stuff.
When it gets real cold keeping my face from being exposed has been an issue.
I've used a balaclava and a scarf on top of that.
I have had ski goggles fog up.
Thanks for your post got me thinking about it all again. I really need to buys some better gear this year.
Keep your feet dry.

Get a pair of bar-ends. They even have ones that "convert" a flat bar to drops. But even traditional bar-ends will provide you with some additional variety of hand positions which will help alleviate hand/arm discomfort on longer rides. This is an inexpensive solution that may effectively alleviate your comfort problems.

As for any further upgrades, I would not bother with this bike. Keep it well maintained, and sell it and buy another used bike that may be better suited to the kind of riding you want to get into.

It's never worth it to upgrade a lower-tier bike such as yours (and actually most hybrids). It's barely worth it to upgrade even mid-tier bikes, but not all decisions are economical when you're comfortable on a particular bike or have an emotional attachment to it - upgrades in the "few hundred dollars" category might be worth it, and wheel upgrades are definitely worth it, as you can bring a good wheel to your next bike. Upper tier bikes rarely need upgrades, except maybe a wheelset.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SY7J6F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I absolutely love them. I put off ordering BarMitts for so long because they are so expensive, but I found these and they are much more reasonably priced. They do a great job of keeping my hands warm. This morning it was 43F and I was wearing my lightest gloves and my hands were fine.

It is still pretty easy to shift, but you have to do it totally by feel because you can't see what you are doing (obviously). That said my commute is pretty flat, and with the electric assist, I don't change gears very often, so YMMV.

You can see an example of bar ends here. You can buy them all over Amazon, but I'd recommend checking the bike shop and see what they say about what will work.

[Profile-Design-Boxer-Bar-Black](
http://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design-Boxer-Bar-Black/dp/B001KS3RFQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381597001&sr=8-1&keywords=bar+ends)

[Origin8-Pulsion-Compe-Lite-Bar-Ends](
http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pulsion-Compe-Lite-Bar-Ends/dp/B002I7PRUQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381597001&sr=8-2&keywords=bar+ends)

They are just great for multiple hand positions. Found that riding on flat handle bars, you just don't get the options like you do with a road bike. Added some to the FX, no more numb hands. :)

I bought my FX about this time too just in time for winter. It was a blast, I think you're going to have fun.

If I'm not mistaken, the vfr has clipons, so you will have to buy handlebars and clamps, as well as new brake lines. I'm changing my clipons to handlebars on my SV so these links are for that bike specifically, but the process should be pretty similar, although it helps that I can get a longer clutch cable from the naked version of my bike.

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72804

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=137019

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=131401

(probably the best guide) http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/5-tweaking-tuning-tricking/18709-%246-98-handlebar-conversion-clipons-come-off-superbike-bars-go.html

I'm buying all the parts new, but if you can find a guy that saves motorcycle parts (maybe he used to own a shop or flips bikes) that will save you money. Here is what I have bought:

Clamps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006OP39US/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

bars: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050HC39E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

custom sized brake lines http://www.ebay.com/itm/252726569389?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

new grips http://www.ebay.com/itm/322124605265?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=511045966527&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The conversion isn't worth it, but it's a good deal for the bike anyway, so I would just get it and ride it as is to get used to shifting while you save up for a proper road bike. If you're really set on mounting drops, I'd go with something like these. They're drops that fit like standard MTB bar-ends. I would consider getting more narrow flat bars in conjunction with them, but it's not a big deal.

I tried doing this cheaply over the winter and it didn't quite work out for me.

If you're planning on keeping your trigger shifters you MUST have a 22.2mm outer diameter bullhorn or the trigger shifter will not fit on it. I bought this pair and could fit my shimano trigger shifter onto the right location but needed a shim to match the 31.8mm diameter for my head tube clamp.

The problem is that I'm not aware of any reverse brake levers that will fit the inner diameter of those bars. The ones I bought (for a different, larger internal diameter set of bars) are a millimeter or two too large. I think I can grind out enough material from the last inch of the inside of the bars to get them to fit but that was getting too far in the hacky range with the tools I had on hand so I aborted the project. I expect I'll finish it at some point either by getting a shifter (I'm on a 1x) or finishing out my hacks but I'm enjoying the weather right now.

I remember the more expensive option being to use bar end shifters either on special mount (Paul's Thumbies, IIRC) or shifters on the end with some sort of side pull reverse brake lever on the bars.

I had the same question a few years back and the general response was that it was too expensive to do since it would require new brake levers, cables, etc. I now have a proper road bike in addition to my hybrid but in the interim, I installed some bar-ends. They are excellent at adding an addition 1 or 2 hand positions which both will alleviate stress in hands/wrists and give you more leverage in climbs. These are the ones I have on my hybrid.


http://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design-Boxer-Bar-Black/dp/B001KS3RFQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408539699&sr=8-2&keywords=bar+ends

Good luck!

This pair! They're just neoprene & they were 20 bucks. they're nice against the wind. sometimes i wore a pair of cotton gloves underneath. they're bulky, but for 20$, i was pretty happy!

https://www.amazon.com/ODIER-Handlebar-Cyclist-Mittens-Bar-Straight/dp/B077SY7J6F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=pogies+bike&qid=1570733696&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTlkwV0VPRFpKRVRWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDgzMjM0MVVPNVpDV0pBTUpXQSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODczMzMyMk1YUEQ2NTU5NzdXMSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

After trying heavy gloves, lobster gloves, and a variety of layering I have to say I feel stupid for not doing bar mitts style pogies sooner. Wasn't sure if I'd like them so even got some off brand ones for $23 and even those are great.

Days in the 20s have required no gloves and this morning I had to open the vents to keep my hands from getting too warm. Amazing!

These are the ones I got, haven't had them long enough to couch for durability but performance has been great so far.

ODIER Bike Handlebar Mitts Cyclist Pogies Mittens for Winter Thermal Cover for Handlebar Keep Hands Warm 1 Pair (Bar-Straight) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SY7J6F/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_jrZ0DbQREJW3J

Question: The Earl comes with a front / rear brake. Are you planning on re-using the levers / brakes?

If so, I would say shell out some money to get Nitto RB-021. I like these bullhorns because they provide a variety of hand positions.

If not, I would say you may have to get some Origin 8 bullhorns and a brake setup from Bike Island

Regarding the cog, I've seen them ranging anywhere from $7 to $20 and up.

Picking the cog will depend on what gear ratio you want. You can use this calculator to figure that out the appropriate cog to get.

The next natural question is how do you pick what gear ratio. Think about your current gearing on your 44x17 bike. Do you find that it's just right? Get a 17t cog. Think it's too hard to pedal with? Get a larger cog - 18t and up. Think it's too easy to pedal with? Get a smaller cog - 16t and below.

I would look into things like barmits
Good set of safety lights
Face masks, wind breakers, bike rack and panniers.
Get anything that will make riding in any weather or condition comfortable.
Patch kit, tools, or spare tubes always good to have extra.

> http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

definitely save up your money and get a nice Tiagra or 105 road bike when you can afford it. Way better than getting a $750 bike that you'll want to upgrade in 2 years.

I'm in Boston too and yeah, the wind can get fierce. I LOVE my aerobars - they definitely take a load off my wrists and reduce my drag. That being said, they do impede your ability to brake so I'd only use them in places where you aren't around traffic. I have these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S43UYC/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_cA4HybQB7ZE0R) on my bike and they were a simple 15 minute addition. You mention you're on a trail for a part of your commute - which one? Minuteman? Charles River?

What is it about drops that you want? If it's a more aggressive riding position then yes go with a road bike. But do know those slimmer tires will not be as forgiving over bumps as something with a bit more volume.

If its just that you want more hand positions for the ride there are a whole variety of bar ends that you can add for little expense. Some of these will stretch you out more, some will just reorient your hands, and these mimic drop bars.

Plus v-brakes are probably the best rim brakes for a commuter (powerful, easy to run fenders, etc etc.)

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: 1


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
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|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

I agree with all of that.

I would just add that bar ends are an economical option for adding more hand placement options to an MTB, without having to swap handlebars/shifters/brake levers.

Most people would opt for a standard bar ends to give you that on-the-hoods/bullhorn hand position. Add a cheap set of foam grips, and install these angled up so that your wrist is straight when riding.

If you want the feel of riding down in the drops, then there are also drop bar ends available. These will require grip tape, and should be installed flat or angled very slightly up.

So I drilled two holes in top triple to fit these 7/8'' universal risers. Be sure to use lock nuts and Red Locktite when fixing the risers to the top triple clamp. I used this 7/8'' handlebar. The Brake lines were bought used from an 04-06 SV650 which came stock with a longer brake line. Since my bike is an 06 SV650S that brake line fit my bike. The brake line is easy to find used on ebay or you can buy new if you feel uncomfortable about that. The Clutch Cable and Throttle Cable both need to be longer as well, so I bought this Clutch Cable, Motion Pro 04-0331 and this Throttle Cable, Motion Pro 04-0316. I have novice mechanical skills and it took me 3 hours in total. Not too hard in my opinion. What I did though is bought a spare
top triple tree clamp and drilled into that one so that I could ride my bike while preparing for this modification.

If I could make a recommendation on this front, I would recommend the Nitto Noodle bar, model 177. It's very snazzy looking, and it has HUUUUUUUGE ramp (the part that, on bikes with hooded brakes, sits behind the hood.) They're the most comfy I've found. And you can get them in 41, 44, 46 and 48cm. I like 44, and that just happens to be my chest size, so that may be a good metric to aim for.

http://www.amazon.com/Nitto-Noodle-26-0mm-Silver-Alloy/dp/B001F6M9C0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1299470896&sr=1-1

That's the one I was talking about. =)

I did this with my mid-90's Bridgestone MB-5 Imgur. It's a great and easy project. You don't need new wheels, but get some slick tires. They'll make a big difference. You may also prefer a more upright riding position. You most easily do that with some high rising handlebars instead of the flats or get some swept back handlebars. I did the latter with my wife's bike for a more relaxed riding position. You may need new cables and cable housing if you do this because you end up moving the brake handles and shifters so much.

Also, depending on the weather you may want fenders.

Note: The pic of my bike also has the xtracycle freeradical extension for extra cargo room or taking my kids on the back. Unfortunately, these are not longer being made.

I use some nice thick bar tape like Nashbars Get a Grip tape along with some Century gel pads underneath them. The result is nice and cushy and very thick. Most important thing is the gel pads underneath and to double wrap/only half overlap the tape using the entire roll.

If I got those, I think I would send them back if I could. The longer bars from Profile Design or TeC9 are pretty comfortable and reasonably priced. I have the Profile Design and my wife has the Tec9. I really prefer the Tec9 for adjustability and comfort.

Sorry for my noobness, but are you talking about something like this? I have the same issue as Schmackelnuts, and don't have the money for a new bike right now, so I'd like to make my hybrid more comfortable.

Putting on actual drop bars would get expensive, you'd need new shifters and brake levers (if the bike has hydraulic brakes you can forget about it). Not to mention, MTB geometry really isn't set up for drops.

You could however add something like Origin 8 drop ends

Best option would be skinnier more road like tires like Schwalbe Marathons or similar, and a rigid fork to help reduce weight up front. Then it would be a halfway decent flat bar bike.

Rando bar flairs out at the bar end. It's not a regular straight up/down drop. Because of this, when you drop, it's more stable. It's also a bit more comfortable than regular drop bar. I have a 46cm.

I've bought a Easton carbon bar, and a Nitto's noodle.

Carbon bar is interesting. As it's less heat conductive than alu., it's more comfy in winter. This is not on my commute bike but I use the bike for commute once in a while.

Nitto noodle, I just put it on, and it's compact (means short reach / short drop). This is also good for commute.

If you are going to use the stem adpater, Velo Orange's adapter is highly recommended. I just bought another (to go with Nitto bar.).

Interested in replacing the road bars on my bike with a riser. I’ve already got a brake set on my bike. Planning on buying a riser, a short pull lever, and lock on grips. Is there anything else I’ll need to get? Can I re-use the cable/housing that was on the original brake set?

In terms of the hardware I’ll be picking up…what width and how much rise would you recommend for the riser bar? Currently looking at this one. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for the lever? No idea where to even start looking for that. Where can I find out what clamp size I’ll need?

Will I need any special tools to get this done?

I wondered about this too when I had the same bike, but you have to realize that you will be using it a radically different purpose than the frame was intended. That isn't just fluff. The geometry is very different. As much as I liked to think so, the 7.2 is not really a flat-bar road bike. the geometry is much more upright.

Sure, you can use your corvette to haul a trailer, but that is really not what it was designed for. If you see what I mean.

Now, I personally think it would look like ass, but you can install something like these bar ends

Nice bike... looks light compared to my winter tank! I think you'll enjoy this bike.

My Fatbike tip is once it's below -20C, get some bar mitts like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009F9ZQH4/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=bicycling0d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B009F9ZQH4&ascsubtag=%5BASIN%7CB009F9ZQH4%5Bnid%7C2246911%5Bvid%7C2424011%5Bbrand%7CBKE%5Butm%7C

I have these and really love them, though make sure you get the screws good and tight; during my first race, one side actually started loosening up and I had to tighten it while riding. Now that I have them properly set they haven't moved since, after several hundred miles.

this 2 week old post pretty much covers the reasons why what you're planning on doing isn't very cost effective.

I thought this was the best solution on the thread, so long as you're fine with not being able to stop or shift while in the drops.

ive asked this question before, basicly best answer was bar end drops. like these: https://smile.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8?sa-no-redirect=1

as far as fit, if your legs are long enough that you can pedal a size larger fine then you may be able to get away with just changing the stem, which isn't too expensive or difficult.

a shorter steeper stem will get the bars closer to you and higher which will focus less of your weight on your hands.

+1 to everything everyone else has been saying, and also something which I haven't seen mentioned yet:

Some people prefer gel pads in their gloves, other prefer the gel on the handlebars under the wraps, for example this.

Personally I have a JakeTheSnake which I ride with gel gloves, and a pure road bike (custom build) with gel on the bars. For long rides (100km+) I find the bar gel to be more comfortable and provide better numbness relief. I've done similar distances on the Jake, but my posture is a bit different on that and bar gel there does nothing for me.

So anyhoo just be aware of that option, some people find it helpful.

I got something like this for my bike:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002I7O52C/ref=twister_B002IXX05E
Of course, now it's wrapped with bar-end brakes.

I think the catching one on trees is more of a joke/myth than something that actually happens. If you think about the plane of typical (forget the formal term) u shaped handles that a lot of racing bikes have, they have basically the same plane as bullhorns when looked at from above.

And, if you consider that regular straight bars will have about the same clearance to the side of the bike... there's really not much difference. If you're going to catch something inside a bullhorn, really, it'd probably throw you off using regular handlebars too (as I doubt you'll recover from how far your wheel would be wrenched to the side along with the associated sudden drop on momentum in any case).

Bullhorns aren't for everyone, but for someone like me, they provide a second position and allow me to stay comfortable, and the risks of riding with them are mostly a joke/myth.

I have (nearly) the same bike as you (7.4 Firebrand) and ride mine for the same purposes. Lately I've been training for a charity ride and got a pair of these for cheap on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

The only rub is that you have to also buy adapters for the IsoZone grips so the drop bar ends will fit (~$5). I also got some cork tape from the same company for relatively cheap, altogether making it much cheaper than buying whole new handlebars and shifters.

Also, if you're getting into more fitness riding/training, I couldn't recommend clipless pedals and MTB shoes enough. They've helped with my rides tremendously!

Its looking good!

To get handlebars like those, you need to fit handlebar extensions such as these :

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-Pulsion-Compe-Lite-Ends/dp/B002I7PRUQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1344795835&sr=1-2&keywords=bar+extensions

http://www.amazon.com/Origin-Bicycle-Drop-Ends-Black/dp/B0013G6PB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370531491&sr=8-1&keywords=drop+bar+ends

I used these while I was trying to put drops on flats. I eventually just ended up putting actual drop bars on, but these work rather well and are very comfortable.

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

I'd like to put a shallow drop bar on my 2014 Bianchi Pista and more comfortable brake hoods. Will this combo https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003U9ROKC/ref=pd_sim_468_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F1X4QSZ08MYR2RW219MJ of brake levers work with https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-Fit-Compact-Handlebars/dp/B00SYZTLVW handlebars? If so, can I use existing brake cables or will I need to replace the cables as well?

Seeing as the lion's share of a bicyclist's effort goes into overcoming aerodynamic drag, "reasonably fast", and "upright posture" aren't especially compatible. You can have both if you add a motor, or perhaps a fairing, but in either case you can upgrade reasonably fast into unreasonably fast by getting low.

Also maybe try a recumbent. Some find that leaning back is a more comfortable way to achieve low frontal area than leaning forward.

Edit: you may be able to kludge on some bar extensions to make the hunched position more comfortable.

My favorite addition:

https://www.amazon.com/ODIER-Handlebar-Cyclist-Mittens-Bar-Straight/dp/B077SY7J6F/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=bar+mitts&qid=1569006208&sr=8-5

Cheap and effective.

For a while I just used my phone. I used the free version of endomondo with this bike mount. It gives fair estimate for speed, but only if you keep a consistent pace.

I had an actual wired computer at one point but lost it when someone broke into my garage and made off with my commuter. It was so long ago that I can't really remember what it was.

I just upgraded a few months ago and added the Topeak Cadence and Speed sensor. I'm very happy with it. For a wireless computer it works very well. Syncs everything to my phone and is extremely accurate. As far as I've been able to figure out, you can only sync data to Strava or their customer app. But for the most part I log all my rides with Endomondo in the background and monitor my speed/cadence/whatever with the topeak app.

I don't see any particular problem with the length of your commute. You can ride any bike longer distances, and the Soho has all the nice features for doing so - fenders, rack mounts, enough speeds to get you over the hills. The only issue I could see with it is a lack of hand positions. That could be easily solved with a set of bar ends or a different set of bars. A good bike shop will swap handlebars for you, maybe at a slight upcharge for the price difference. I found a review in the comment section here that suggested moustache bars or I think another good option would be some Titec H-Bars.


I really can't see any other issue with the length of your commute on that bike. For myself, the lack of hand positions would be the killer. I have some carpal tunnel problems (too much wrenching on motorcycles and cars) that can't handle the same handlebar position for more than 15 minutes. Flat bars are fine for short commutes, hence why a lot of the reviews you are seeing are commutes under 10 miles.

You can get auxiliary bars that mount out in front of your bars that you can mount additional accessories to. That's just kicking the can down the road, but there are some that solve your problem.

Some, like this one mount with two clamps, one on either side of the stem. So it can't slide in either direction!

Some mount to the stem (clamp on, or on with face plate bolts (velo orange makes one) ) or on the steerer with a special spacer.

Amazon cheaply bar, nothing special. I just ordered their bullhorn bar too. I wanna try everything haha.

UPANBIKE Fixed Gear Bike Road... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734Y1MWP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

25.4mm version to fit mtb components.

I guess you are talking about standard clip-on aero bars?

http://www.amazon.ca/Tec9-Triathlon-Aero-Time-Trial/dp/B0055T6GVI

I bought these at the beginning of the summer and I like them a lot. They are my first aero bars so I can't really compare with others but they're doing a good job and they're by far the cheapest I've seen.

Yeah, I'm super natural on them, I jump over stuff with them, sprint uphill, etc. Sprinting on aero bars allows me to raise my torso like I normally would sprinting upright, but still keep my head out of the wind.

http://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design-T3-Aero-Bar/dp/B004S43UYC

Haha yep! Origin8 makes em. http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

What kind of extender are you talking about? An accessory bar like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VW7GXM4?psc=1 ?
If so I think that would work fine. You would want something to keep it from swinging fore and aft. I am familiar with the revelate handlebar bag and it also has a strap to go around the steerer tube for that purpose.

Just stuff some stuff in a dry bag and strap it on, then see what needs to change!

If you have a flat bar then getting some bar ends like this can make those uphill climbs a lot better

Trying out Bar Mitts to keep my hands warm - https://www.amazon.com/ODIER-Handlebar-Cyclist-Mittens-Bar-Straight/dp/B077SY7J6F/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=bar+mitts&psc=1&qid=1572883108&sr=8-7

Worked pretty well to stop the wind chill.

I've been really happy with Cinelli Volee Tape with these gel pads underneath for a little extra cushion since I do a lot of long-distance riding

If you want it center mounted, maybe this will work for you.

Gub KBROTECH 31.8MM Double Clamp Carbon Fiber Super Long Bike Bicycle Handlebar Extender Extension Light Lamp Phone Mount Bracket Stand Holder Space Saver
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VW7GXM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6EiEDbY7Z4393

I have risers, love rapid fire shifters, but like the feel of drops at times and thought about these

the thumb shifter won't work on drops. flat bar clamp section is 22.2mm, drop bar clamp section is 23.8

You can make it work with the sora STI shifter you listed, the cheaper alternative is the microshift stuff you can buy on ebay (I'd go with second hand shimano stuff though)

Then you'd need new cables

Of course the easier option is to just get bar ends, you can even get drop bar bar ends

my Virtue Truck with accessories from left to right:

Thule Yepp Maxi Rack Mount Child Seat

Thule Yepp Maxi Easyfit Adapter

Schwinn Kids Bike Helmet - Teddy Bear

Brooks Saddle (used - exact make unknown)

Velo Orange Copehagen Double Kick

RockBros MTB Pedals

Origin8 Urban-Pro Riser Handlebar

Origin8 Time Clock Bell

Cork Chop Bicycle Grips

21x15" Wald 157 Giant Delivery Basket

15x15” Bungee Net

Kobra Ultra Bright Bike Light - 1200 Lumens


I love everything currently on her, but may end up going a bit wider on the bars now that I'm riding the rig fully loaded.

i dont really ride in the winter, but ive heard these bad boys are pretty effective

My husband bought and used these. They fit well and worked for him

Since you where looking at Amazon, these two look like what you're looking for

1

2

I agree. If he wants to try drop bar geometry on the bike he could try these and adjust/replace the stem. Maybe cut the bars after placement. Wouldn't need to invest in shifters/brakes/brifters to try the fit. Definitely cheaper way to try the geometry change.

These might be Origin8 Drop Ends from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013G6PB8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I installed these on my raleigh cadent 1 hybrid and it's great! Offers similar feel to standard drop handlebars without the hassle of actually converting.

google gave me this https://www.amazon.com/Gub-KBROTECH-Handlebar-Extender-Extension/dp/B06VW7GXM4

but if you have enough steer tube run a second stem like Sheldon brown

If you want an inexpensive alternative, you could try putting some different bar ends on your handlebars to give you some different riding positions.

Here's some that mimic the drop-bar style, and would probably give you a good idea if that style would be right for you.

thanks :D bars brakes

I've got extenders of various lengths like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VW7GXM4?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=BV50H8J64HJJQRDJEEMR

​

The large loop that goes around the handlebar is hinged and opens, so it'll, you know, go around the handlebar when you unhinge it and wrap it around. But then the bolt holes aren't aligned so it can't be fastened.

These. Support your local bike shop though.

I have a set of these: https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8 that I would like to get rid of.

I did the perimeter (12,000 miles) of the US on Nitto Northroads. 14 months of touring. After the tour, I bought a pair of Sunlite Northroads, made of alloy, an inch more rise, and 2 inches wider. I like them alot


http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/handlebars/index.html

http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Touring-North-Bicycle-Handlebar/dp/B0010VZFJO

bike shop, amazon, other online bike stores. They are very warm though! I have yet to go riding in weather that I need anything on my hands under them.

>I use the Topeak Ridecase stem cap mount system for my phone.. However I want to use it on my motorcycle handle bar as well. Do they make an adapter that can go around large handlebars to create something like a stem cap to mount stuff to? Topeak makes one for bicycle handle bars but it is too small for motorcycle handle bars. I would think they would make a universal mount adapter but maybe not. Thank you so much in advance!

I pasted your text because it scrolling a long ways across in the header. You're saying this band won't fit around the diameter of your motorcycle handlebars?

So here's what I would do. Slide in your controls and grips to where you think they would be comfy. Ride it without touching the part of the bars you think you won't use. Cut the bars there if you're satisfied. If you really want drop bars for some reason, stick these on there after you chop the bars. https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8:

Try Bar Mitts. They go on your handlebars, and create a nice little space for heat to stay while also blocking the wind. There are a few styles available depending on what type of bike you ride (MTB or road).

Origin 8 makes drop bar ends, kinda like traditional MTB bar ends.

> https://www.amazon.com/Gub-KBROTECH-Handlebar-Extender-Extension/dp/B06VW7GXM4

Thanks u/What_a_rubbish_user but that amazon dealie won't work either. The part where you'd try and clamp it to the aero bars is a weird aero / non-standard handlebar shape.

How about this one? But the brakes will still be on the straight handlebar.

If you find an older road bike (like 80s or 70s) bar, the diameter will work with your shifters/brakes.

These may be helpful, but are not an equivalent for drops.

I'd ride it as is though.

It really depends on how much you're going to ride. There are a lot of options. Being able to change positions and sit up straight makes a lot of difference for me. I use these on my touring bike with bar end shifters.

This get's brought up all the time and I've done extensive research on the topic when I had a Sirrus that wasn't getting the job done anymore. Yeah...don't do this. It's physically feasible but not advised for a bunch of reasons. In terms of your hands going numb, you need a fit. I'm guessing your arms are totally locked out when you're riding leading to the numbness. You'll get more out of the bike from a proper fit than you would trying to convert it to drop bars.

If you really want to keep your bike and not go full drop bars, grab bar ends like these and retape your bars. You won't have access to your brakes from the drops which is obviously a very huge downside of this plan so be careful if you do.

I had a Giant Escape. You can either sell the bike and buy a road bike on Craigslist (what I did), or buy these:

http://www.amazon.com/Origin-Bicycle-Drop-Ends-Black/dp/B0013G6PB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409073242&sr=8-1&keywords=drop+bar+ends

Putting proper drops on is just too expensive.

Yeah, I had to do another google search because I was confused. Here they are on amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Origin-Bicycle-Drop-Ends-Black/dp/B0013G6PB8

If you can swing the expense, you won't regret these Bar Mitts.

They’re drop bar attachments I added to my flat bar

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

Profile Design Boxer Bar End (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KS3RFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1.Bpyb9TJ8ZBK

Are these the bars?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013G6PB8/ comes close for cheap

about as cheap as you can get for new ones.

Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VW7GXM4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

A little pricier than I remember TBH

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SY7J6F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bar mitts beat any gloves you're gonna get.

I bought these last winter and they were toasty af and still let me have some dexterity.

Bar Mitts

Got this less than a month ago. So far, I've put a new Riva saddle on it, Profile Design end bars, a Mirrycle bar mirror, a rear spider flasher, and a Bell F20 computer.

I have these and I am still not sure if I like them or not. I am fairly new to cycling and I ride about 30 miles a week. I have a bad back so I have to adjust positions (two on the handlebars and then go to these) every 5 min or so. They do ease the tension on my back and I am happy I bought them, but my speed decreases once I get on them. I've road on them for about 200 miles total and my speed does not decrease as much lately.

Also be careful if you get these. The first time I positioned myself on them I almost fell and again it happen again today but this time I was going about 18mph and it would have been a bad fall. You wouldn't think it would be that big of a difference but it is.

Finally, I had to move my gear shifters to install them on my bike and my handlebars where a bit undersized for them so I had to make them "thicker" with duct tape so they would not move all around. You could probably use bar tape and make it look nicer, but I did not have any at the time.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013G6PB8

20 bucks, plus you'll want some bar tape.

If you want to brake and shift from the drops, at least 300 more and it'll still suck.

Edit: Also consider clip-on aero bars. You can't brake from those anyway. Otherwise if you want a road bike with drops, sell the one you have (or not - n+1 and all that) and get a caad10 ;)

Yeah bar diameter kinda sucks I think you can probably fit some extensions to it though? You'll at least be able to get into them for sprints and stuff I suppose but I'd miss riding on the hoods...

i have a hybrid and just recently added drop bars. it cost a little over $30 and you can find all the materials off of amazon.
link for the dropbars
grip tape

Nothing special https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KS3RFQ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_Wz9EDbA8M1QJY

I am planning on a 20 mile ride ride and my hands were looking for another place to be so for 15.00 bucks, this really fits the bill.

Here's my basic amazon sleuthing trying to do it for less. I suspect this is a bad idea, but I need to know why:

Bullhorns

Brakes

Aero Bars

Origin 8 makes clip-on drop bar ends that might suit your needs without having to mess with your shifters or brakes.- and they're only $15.

If you can slip something on the existing bars these might work for you:

Origin8 Drop Ends https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013G6PB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KvgSDbG502Q1F

Bar Mitts are indispensable if you are prone to cold hands/fingers. They make variants for both flat and drop bars. I much prefer them over lobster gloves or ski gloves.

Because your shifters won't likely be compatible. I've asked the same thing before.

These are in my wish list but I don't know how good they are, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013G6PB8/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_2?colid=39RF70MNEX2EY&coliid=I3G3NKESNEV642

Butt you might want to look into buying a road bike. You can get a low end bike starting at 600.

For the lazy.

http://www.amazon.com/Origin-Bicycle-Drop-Ends-Black/dp/B0013G6PB8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1342743214&sr=8-3&keywords=bike+bar+ends

The bracket came with a Taiwanese light kit but is basically half of one of these with the carbon tube cut shorter.

The seat is a bit above the handle-bars. I had my bike professionally fit, and that's where I should set for "efficiency". (I don't care so much about that at this point)

The problem that I may have discovered - Right before the 50 mile test ride I added a seat cushion which added about 5 inches of height (maybe less when I sit on it). So that's probably why there's pain after the 50 mile ride.

So simple fixes:

1. Ditch the seat cover.
   
   
2. Work on flexibility.
   
   
3. Maybe drop the seat a bit?
   
   
   Would a set of Triathlon bars help?

Another option is fit a flat bar and install some drop bar ends

The only downside is there is no braking from the drops.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Venzo-Road-Bicycle-Bike-Adapter-Handlebar-Flat-Bar-to-Drop-Bar-Ends/162916437340?hash=item25ee938d5c:g:I4wAAOSwepNdJlz3

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/handlebars/jtek-superlight-drop-bar-bar-ends-black/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Origin-33617-Origin8-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

I found these! But they have been noted to be uncomfortable and small on a 7.3 fx.

Or you can try these clamp on drop bars Origin8 Drop Ends https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013G6PB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MFH5CbJ121487

As someone who bike commuted in Wisconsin year round let my frost bitten dead nerved knuckles and fingers tell you that you should ask for Pogies this holiday season.

Something like these: http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Mitts-Mountain-Black-Large/dp/B009F9ZQH4

WITH gloves on under them. Windchill when you bike around in tempueratures already below zero is no effin joke as you should know being in the UP.

• Mountain bikes tend to only have 1 way to hold the bike. Ditch the grips and get some bar tape, along with some bar ends. Normal bullhorn style ones are fine, but if you really want to step up your game, Origin8 makes some drop-bar attachments that are pretty sweet
  
  
• Clipless pedals aren't for everyone. If they make your feet and knees hurt, don't use em. Simple as that.
  
  
• This could be a matter of posture. If your core isn't supporting enough weight, it can mess up the curvature of your back. That will move strain up onto your upper back and shoulders...right where you're getting the pain.
  
  
• Might be a loose headset. Could be worse a trip to the shop.
  
  
• Knobbly tires are terrible for road riding. Swapping to a smooth road-tread or outright slick tire will improve your bike's grip and acceleration significantly.
  
  
• Getting a fitbit or some other personal telemetry tracker would probably help.