(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best bike brake parts

First of all, I think that's a pretty nice frame. Double butted Tange steel tubing means it should be decently light and strong. Was a middle/higher end bike back in the day. Definitely keep it...it's worth fixing up.

Don't know anything about those tires, but the rest of the purchase looks fine. 28mm tires will "probably" fit, so good luck with that; bikes from that era had a bit more clearance.

You may also want to check if any of the other wear parts need replacement. This is usually the case if the bike sat unused for years: brake cables and housing; derailleur cable and housing; brake pads. After a decade, cable and housing often get gummed up and pads get hard/dry. Getting good brake pads like Kool Stop will make a huge improvement.

With the tires off, scrub the rim braking surface with a brillo pad or something similar, using vodka or rubbing alcohol, whichever is more available.

Check for chain wear with a chain checker (a $5 tool) or measuring with a ruler (google it). If the chain wear is fine and it isn't horrifically corroded with rust, it'll be fine even after 10+ years.

For commuting, I suggest a nice set of generic pedals that are wide, have good bearings, and have good grip. I've had good luck with various Chinese pedals, like this set: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DHHQQHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You didn't post a pic of the actual bike. But if it's got the original levers, the single best thing you can do is to upgrade with modern brake levers which are substantially more ergonomic:

https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RL340-Brake-Lever-Black/dp/B01173986A/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=brake+levers&qid=1565320277&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-9

https://www.amazon.com/TRP-Alloy-Brake-Lever-Black/dp/B007DCFKE4/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=brake+levers+cane+creek&qid=1565320183&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-18

Yes, there may or may not be other things to overhaul, like bearings and such. But save that for later.

> I think I might like a minimum of a 105 groupset, but I haven't seen any bikes on that website that include the brake calipers/pads in that groupset. Is this cause for concern?

One way that site saves money is by going to less expensive brake calipers. Some major manufacturers do this as well, actually. Fortunately, Tektro brakes aren't all that bad -- maybe a bit heavier, but the stopping power is usually fine. If it's not, replacing the brake pads with some good Kool Stop pad for about $7 (each wheel) is an easy fix. You can also replace the brakes with [105 calipers]http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_576933_-1___) for $46 total (during a 20% off sale), and that's a relatively simple change to make.

> Next, are the clipless pedals that are sometimes included any good? I thought I read here that the pedals that are included for free are always pretty bad.

I wouldn't say they're bad, but they definitely give you the cheapest pedal they can find. And it's not like good pedals cost that much anyway. Shimano's R540 ($26 during a sale) and M520 ($19 during a sale) are perfectly fine pedals for casual riders. Or even modestly serious riders, honestly. I wouldn't choose a bike from them because it came with pedals. The pedals might be good enough, but if not it's an easy upgrade.

Accessories and consumables

Hand grips, bar tape, seat, seat post, brake pads, racks and even tires are all very personal choices. I am not a serious rider but I have 4 seats and at least 3 set of tires hanging around in my basement.

These are the items that are easy for anyone to customize to their own taste. The average rider will be fine with what comes on a new bike then will start to upgrade as they become more obsessed with the sport.

BikesDirect.com is probably the best example of this. They tend to sell bikes with excellent drive trains, decent frames, and low end everything else because they know their customers. The single best example I can think of is the Windsor Fens which has a full (almost) 105 groupset for only $699 which is not much more than your or I would spend just to buy the the derailleur/shifters/crank etc. The frame is decent but the rest is entry level. This is the type of bike you buy for the platform knowing you will want and need to upgrade everything else as you improve.

You can almost throw brakes into this catagory. Again using the BD Fens as an example which uses the Tektro R530 which are under $60 for the pair on Amazon. Where the Shimano 105 brakes are going to be at least double that amount.

Using amazon because I am lazy

I ran into the same problem. I tried the Dia Compe Aero hoods on my Dia Compe levers and they did not fit to my satisfaction. Honestly, you would be better off picking up a set of Shimano BL-R400 levers. Really nice and comfortable and should provide you with a nice boost in braking performance.

Edit:

Levers on amazon for cheaper

These might be worth trying if those are Shimano 600 levers

It depends on conditions, how you ride, what brake pads you use, etc etc. I'd personally start super cheap with something like this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0653KG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and upgrade as needed. Worst that will happen is you destroy a set of pads and have to get new rotors and pads but they very well might be fine and you can save a bit of money. If you ride in mud a lot and you burn through a set of pads too fast maybe get a set of Mud Runners. Otherwise the only reason to upgrade from super cheap simple steel rotors is weight and better heat dissipation (Shimano IceTech stuff, though this is mostly for MTB).

As far as the Mud Runners overheating on MTB trails, I'm not really sure... You might just have to try it out.

Yeah, your primary riding position is "in the hoods" usually. Moreso on modern bikes because thats where you shift from as well, but still because its more comfortable and the best way to climb, imho. The hoods go around the brake levers to make them more ergonomic. These are a good example.

Edit: Spelling and Linkage.

These are pretty standard budget aftermarket brakes. The important thing is to measure from the mounting bolt to the plane of the brake pads on your current set in order to find the reach, then find replacements that fit. Looking at Giant Kronos pics, they look like pretty modern short-medium reach brakes.

Another option is to figure out what model of crank/derailleurs you have and find the brakes that were part of that groupset when they were sold new.

I have the koolstop pads on my Rad Jake. I needed to toe in the Koolstop pads the same amount. At least for me, the different is the koolstop don't squeal at high speeds, but the Avid OEM pads still squeal at high speeds.

*They are awesome in the rain. It's a pretty cheap upgrade with no drawbacks IMO

Buy tools as needed, no need to stock up with everything right away. Most park tools I buy on Amazon and get them within two days. Tools I would get right away though would be

• 1" Crescent Wrench
  
• Park Tool Cassette Remover
  
• Chain Whip, for removal of a cassette
  
• Park Tool 3-Way (in 4, 5 & 6mm)
  
• A chain tool of some sorts
  
  As for cabling
  
  Universal Brake Cables on Amazon, just make sure you cut of the correct end.
  
  Here is a shift cable set.
  
  As for cutting the cables and housing, do NOT use standard wire cutters. You need a parrot style nosed set of cutters, like this Pedros set. I bought a cheap set of cutters on eBay that work great. When I cut housing I use a little sand paper to flush up the ends.
  
  The 4th hand is not really needed, I get by fine without it.

Second time I've recommended these today! When the pads wear out, you can try these pads for the wetter weather.

I've always been fine with the Shimano pads, but some like the Kool-Stop better.

I have these Cane Creek levers on a bike and love em. Nice broad top surface, which eases out the pressure.

These Vuelta Zerolites appear to be ok, you'll need to buy a s/s freewheel and I would recommend avoiding the very cheap chinese units, and buying a Shimano (MX30?) as a minimum, add a KMC chain, some Vittoria Zaffiro tyres, all done. For the brakes, you may need something like the Tektro r559 to reach the new wheels.

Will also need to figure out the crankset, but if you're lucky, may get away with running just the inner ring on your existing crankset and put a fairly small freewheel down the back (16t or 15t)...maybe

If you can move the brake arms around with your hand but squeezing the lever doesn't do much, that sounds like your brakes still aren't adjusted correctly.

Here's an excellent guide to everything about installing and adjusting V-brakes, including a thorough video walkthrough.

Worst case, $14 will get you a better V-brake than what came with the bike. But that shouldn't be necessary.

Velo Orange makes replacement half-hoods.

Kool stop makes racer pads so your brakes work again.

A little saddle soap and some ass-time and that saddle will get comfy again. It's an AGDA, which is the french knockoff of a brooks.

If you're going to ride it, get a shop with a cotter pin press to replace the cotter pins now; it'll make your life way better. Otherwise, grease 'er up and go!

I have a slightly nicer (JIS cranks) bike of the same vintage. They're lovely things.

'couple of short-reach/women's levers:

Tektro RL341 or R341 ($26 black, $21 silver) (340's are the standard size)

Cane Creek SRC-5C

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Front tire; yeah, you're probably going to have to special order one:

Front tire is probably a ISO 520/24" (or possibly a 600a (ISO 540) if she's on an '85-86 Precision), NOT a generic/bmx/kids/schwinn 24" Do not trust the shop guys: make sure it's a 520mm tire yourself if that's what the bike requires!

Panaracer Pasela 1",

1-1/4" Tellus TT, might be too wide for older bikes,

7/8" Schwalbe Durano slick.

Calhoun also carries the Pasela at $10 more than biketiresdirect.

>Just glad to hear this isn't likely to be a stupidly hard item to find

If it does require a 520mm tire it's probably worth picking up a few spares. Who knows how long Panaracer or Schwalbe will keep their versions in production.

Yeah. You got a great deal.

You'll get used to the downtube shifters.

It seems like a small thing, but putting on some dia compe non-aero hoods will make it viable to ride on the hoods, which is a big difference on a bike like that. http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-144-7-Hoods-Non-Aero/dp/B000AO7N56/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410525782&sr=8-1&keywords=dia-compe+non+aero

and some bar tape would go a long way.

Those are DiaCompe levers -- so just some DiaCompe brake hoods: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7N56/ref=twister_B003UWCTIG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

To replace you're going to need to pull off the brake cables and housing as well. May as well replace them at the same time along with the bar wrap. And put on a rear brake while you're at it...those old sidepulls are hardly the strongest and a pair of brakes is cool now.

Oh hey what's up dude. Glad to hear you're looking into brakes, I was kinda worried by how unsafe it all seemed.

I actually helped my mother pick out a very similar beach cruiser for conversion last summer and had to talk her into an upgraded version with at least rim brakes, that's like the bare minimum you want with a powered bike, since coaster brakes are useless for high speed/weight.

Here are a couple suggestions for adapters that add disc brake capability to front and rear. I do not know if they will fit your frame but your retrofitting options for disc brakes are very few. Your local bike shop might have other suggestions too, like in at least attaching a rim brake mounted into the fender or something, I heard a bike mechanic talk about doing that once but hell if I know what to search for to find a product that accomplishes that task.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003QREO1A/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=BYKH4ISM6CZ5&coliid=I24SCK0YC89NM9

http://www.amazon.com/brake-bracket-frame-adaptor-bicycle/dp/B00HFWAMEA/ref=sr_1_13?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1458021690&sr=1-13&keywords=disc+brake+adapter+front

Yeah battery prices are coming down all the time but we still got a ways to go. With lipo you can simply take a couple of those $50 22v 10ah multistar packs and connect in parallel with this to double the voltage to an appropriate 46v or thereabouts, so it is a $100 10ah lithium pack. Add a 20 dollar charger and you're done. Not terribly safe but still might be worth considering when you decide to ditch the lead. That lead's just going to be a bitch to mount, you know? Like it'll work sure, but that much rear mounted weight makes bikes handle very poorly. At least with a lipo pack you can put it in a center mounted battery bag and it'll feel normal.

SRAM S500s are a little more expensive, but a great choice for those who prefer the feel of SRAM hoods.

Check out the Cane Creek Crosstop levers- I'm running them on my single speed and they are great. I think they will work better for your bike than MTB brake levers since they are angled a little differently

https://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Crosstop-Alloy-Levers/dp/B001JI8SKG?th=1&psc=1

See if you can find somewhere to order in/buy the ones KoolStop offers :) http://www.koolstop.com/english/mafac.html.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003OK5TSG/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493493194&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=kool+stop+macfac. Huzzah! I suggest the 'salmon' compound over the black for cleaner braking in the rain. :)

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

So even 7400 series hoods seem to be fairly difficult to come by. Looking around for alternatives (and some people here have mentioned them), do you think the Dia Compe aero hoods might fit? Or would the reach on them be too extreme?

Thanks for help!

That is a pretty common brake/shifter, and luckily isn't expensive new.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Altus-ST-EF51-Shifter-Cables/dp/B01DLGRQ2O/

A v-brake set isn't very expensive, either.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BR-T4000-Rear-V-Brake-Black/dp/B00MWHDNT4

From the bottom up:

• Pretty standard Alex flip-flop wheelset
  
• 56cm Felt Brougham frame (I think it's an '07, but I can't swear to that since I bought it used).
  
• FSA Crank with some super shitty pedals I had laying around.
  
• Shimano 105 brake.
  
• Bontrager stem
  
• chopped riser bars
  
• cheap/light Easton seatpost
  
• cheap Brooks gel seat
  
  It's nothing super flashy or expensive, but she rides like a dream and she's built solidly.

Yes, like this!

​

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTRO-Reach-Calipers-55-73mm-Silver/dp/B01N99BGKO/

Really, the only tough part about replacing a cable is cutting the steel cable and housing. You can judge the housing length using your old housing.

You can order a new cable and housing as a package online for pretty cheap, but you'd have to install it yourself :)

Adjusting the brake levers entirely depends on the model of lever. There's no generic way to adjust reach and if they're simple levers there is probably no adjustment mechanism. However, she can replace them with a nice pair of "short reach" levers for pretty cheap, these Cane Creek ones are $30-40.

Regarding the front tire... could be 27", 26", 650B... just depends. An LBS could definitely figure it out and order a replacement. I'd do it through an LBS because if they order the wrong thing they'll make it right. :)

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BR-5700-Super-Brake-Caliper/dp/B003RLHMAU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1320589529&sr=8-3

Been hearing great things about these on other forums too

Sure you can.

If you opt for the older non "aero" brake levers, so they're called, you will only have to undo the bar tape from the bottom to the lever mounts. There's likely a bolt, 5mm, that you access from the front of the lever. You may need to push the cable out of the way to access it.

If you're going down this road, I recommend undoing all the bar tape and going for the so-called aero brake levers, which often feature levers that "blade" outward, so that you can more easily access them from the sides of the drops, but more importantly, are generally much larger and vastly more comfortable to hold. The cables are routed internally, under the bar tape, rather than on the outside.

Here are some models:

• cheap: Tektro RL340
  
• with modern flat hood angle: TRP RRL
  
• fancier: SRAM S500
  
  TRP and Tektro make many other varieties to fit your brake cable pull needs, etc.
  
  EDIT: some more things I thought of, plus added (non-affiliate) links above.
  
  You can replace with non-aero brake levers (so called, because the cable is routed externally), or just replace the hood (grippy part). It will cost you the least effort.
  
  The aero brake levers do have other advantages I forgot to mention:
  
• quick-release: when changing out a flat, you should disable rim brakes to spread them, in order to more easily drop the wheel out. While many rim brakes feature quick releases (/u/Synchillas , yours do, by the way), you can add even more quick-release at the brake lever. The RL340s & the TRP RRLs, I know for a fact, have pins that limit their travel. Simply push them to the other position & your brakes will open even more.
  
• return spring: May be an advantage or not. Even in the absence of cable tension, at least the RL340 levers will return to their original, not-activated position. It's neater & prevents the lever from rattling if your brake cable tension is inadequate. Note many, if not all modern brifter units do this. However, some may rightly argue that it's more obvious that your cable tension is (unsafely) inadequate if there is no return spring, since you'll readily see the lever being all floppy, before you pull the brake.
  
  I do hate the fact that the fixing bolt (5 mm hex) is obscured by the brake cable in many brake levers. This is a nuisance if you ever want to just fine-adjust the position of the brake levers, or after a crash & they got bent.
  
  Shimano & SRAM fixed this by relocating the bolt outside. I'm not sure if this is the case with the SRAM S500 levers, but I suspect it would be.
  
  Furthermore, if you come across dysfunctional brifters (shift + brake combos, AKA STI), you can trivially substitute them in & just use the brake function, which should never have issues. I've done this a few times & occasionally your LBSes will discard these brifters, leaving you with a free pair of brake levers. Sometimes they are much nicer than dedicated brake levers.
  
  Here is a short review of the TRP RRL levers. The user does a comparison with the non-aero variety you have, & explains the use of the shim which gives a more modern (IMO significantly more comfortable) flat transition from bar to hood.

> Also will this be a good chain braker?

I use this to brake my chain.

Mind you I'm not braking it directly, but it accomplishes the goal.

RS11 wheels are not disc brake compatible, you'll have to filter by disk wheelsets on whatever website you were planning to buy from. Make sure whatever wheels you pick have the same hub spacing as your bike, which is probably 100mm front 130mm rear if you have a road bike.

Everything else you said is fine, that's all you'll need. If you have dual-caliper disk brakes you won't have to worry about adjusting them between wheelsets, if you have single-caliper brakes some disk spacers might come in handy https://www.amazon.com/Syntace-Disc-Shims-Bag-8/dp/B001PTBPY0

Thanks! These are the ones, right? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GSMSJG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1410748467&sr=8-1

For those that were asking, these are the rotors in question:

Cheap Rotors

If anyone has links to other cheap rotors that work, please share

Since you mentioned suicide levers, you can easily add Crosstop levers. They work great and are easily installed.

These ones

They're definitely an improvement, especially when it's wet. I'm also using some weaker [brakes] (http://www.kcncbike.com/products.php?product=CB6). I'd say it brought the braking back up to being on par with the Ultegra calipers my bike came with.

Front brake is your friend! And the pads on stock tektro brakes are awful in my opinion. I would recommend these instead.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BL-R400-Brake-Levers-Black/dp/B000F5LLWG

$36 and have cables.

http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-R341-Brake-Levers-Black/dp/B003U9ROHK/ref=pd_sbs_sg_9

$24 and don't.

Personally I prefer the feel of the Shimano hoods, but have ridden the Tektro's (the long-pull variant that is) on the Nature Boy and they ain't half bad at all!

I think that the only real solution is using very thin spacers (for the cassette) and shims (for the rotor). Otherwise you're just running up against minor differences in spacing between hub manufacturers.

I went with the Tektro r559. They were $45 a pair on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTRO-Reach-Calipers-55-73mm-Silver/dp/B01N99BGKO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543383269&sr=8-1&keywords=tektro+r559

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These barely reached all the way in the rear.

I ran mini-v's over the last winter for what you describe. They were more powerful for the late summer (dry) single track rides but I found that the mud/grit/salt in my area was prone to getting stuck between the pads and rim/tires which made terrible noises, reduced my braking, and eroded ... everything. I'm going back to wide cantis for the rough weather. Discs would probably be the best for single track but might be overkill for anything less.

Try out different brake levers before you buy. I switched from these to these and think that was a bigger upgrade than switching from cantis to mini-v's.

You can use an adapter that mounts on those holes to create a disc brake mount

A2Z Brake Mount Tabless Frame

You'll definitely need a standard reach (vs. the new standard "short reach"). I made the mistake of not checking and had to run out and grab a new brake when I built my Steamroller. I have a Tektro R539.

LHT Frame - $520 after tax

Chukker Wheels - $85 x 2

Tires Schwalbe Marathon Plus RLX 700 x 45 C Bicycle Tire - $54 x 2

Alloy Headset Spacers - $7.89 x 2

Shift Levers - $60

Chain - $10

Brake Cables - $10

Brakes - $15 x 2

Extra Long Shift Cables - $6

Derailleur - $24

Cassette - $17

Crankset - $40

Spindle - $24

Headset - $45

Seatpost - $20

Brooks Saddle - $145

Rack - $35

Brooks Panniers - $150 x 2

Brooks Bar Tape - $65

Tools

Saw Guide - $41.36

Starnut Setter - $22

The hoods in your first link won't work with these levers. They'll work with Dia Compe Gran Compe, Campagnolo, and Suntour's non-aero levers, but not with the ones in the OP's picture. OP's levers would take these hoods.

My bike had the old style one too and I just drilled out the hole in the back of the fork to accommodate them. I couldn't really do that for the back one so I ended up using the front brake on the back and getting a really long nut to use the back one on the front http://problemsolversbike.com/products/sheldon_fender_nuts. The drilling took about a minute, just get a drill bit that's the same size as the nut (I think I used a 5/8 bit, but don't quote me on that). If that's too much work for you Tektro makes the old style mount ones too http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-R539-Pivot-Brake-Caliper/dp/B007QMIP2K but its $30 each for basically the same thing

Cane Creek makes them now

$9 a pair.

Fyi, you can buy replacement hoods that'll fit those levers. The bottom of the hood interferes a little with braking, but that's fixable by making a 3/4 inch cut along the bottom where the brake lever pushes in. Cane Creek 144.7 Hoods Non-Aero Gum https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7N56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8WpLzbQ3VZK4B

With the wheelset you posted above, and assuming you'd be putting modern road tires on the wheels, no. You'd want this style of front brake and this style of rear brake.

Shimano 600 brake hoods are like $40+ which i won't drop.

I tried https://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-144-7-Hoods-Non-Aero/dp/B000AO7N56/ which some people said worked on shimano 600 levers, but had to cut a lot of material, didn't fit well, and tore when i had to stretch em a bit.

It's like the first part of any tune-up on a bike with V-brakes older than ~5 years and costing less than $50 per caliper.

However, new V-brakes are crazy cheap and it can't possibly be worth your time to be constantly trying to fix this and dealing with poor performance.