(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best body repair & restoration adhesives

Already a lot of great answers by clever people here! I can add a bit on motors and electricals, but I also want to say that you're probably underestimating how big a 3' arm is. Imagine that on your desk- it takes up half a table! Sizing the motors for static torque alone doesn't work well, as the inertia at the end effector increases with length^2 which is proportional to dynamic torque, speed, and vibration. Larger limb sections are also heavier and more complicated to make, which makes them even more heavy. Sizing down a little bit will make the arm dramatically more stable and performant.

> Belts or Gears for the actuators?

For 3 lb @ 35" you're looking at a minimum torque of 12.2 N-m at the shoulder. That will require reduction. Belts are far cheaper than gears, especially if you have a 3d printer- plastic pullys work great, although they need to be well glued to metal shafts (NB that a shaft key will greatly reduce strength and durability). Red loctite is great for that. A single belt reduction can do 5x, although you can do 10x+ with idlers. Mcmaster is a good place for belts, but amazon has a small selection that can be cheaper.

Note that belts can be very rigid: highly tensioned, fiber reinforced belts at moderate torque (otherwise the teeth start pulling out) are actually stiffer than most gears, which have a grease film and a gap between teeth that has a slight initial give/backlash. The reason you switch from belts to gears is because you need to tension the belts more tightly for higher torque. Once the tension becomes hard on the bearings and gearbox frame, you switch to gears. Basically you want to avoid gears if at all possible; they're expensive, hard to find, and hard to mount without metal backplates and the ability to cut bearing mounts. SDP/SI is a good place to get gears.

> Once I know how much torque I need, how do I know which type of motor is best for me? Stepper, Servo, Brushless?

Depends how much you want to spend. Hobby servos won't work for a 35" arm, even the $350 dynamixels. You also don't want to be designing your own brushless drivers, and the range of robotics controllers for bldc is limited. You are basically stuck between NEMA 23 and odrive.

NEMA 23 is the cheap choice- you can get very big NEMA 23s on amazon, hook them up to a single-stage 5x reduction, and have gobs of torque and good control. You can even get NEMA 34 for affordable prices. The drivers are stupidly cheap- for <$70 all-in you can have an arduino-controlled joint with 15 N-m of torque and top out solidly over 500 rpm. Add a couple heat sinks and you can increase that a lot- 500+ watts no problem, or 7 watts per dollar.

Downsides are you don't get any regen (not so important on an arm), low/no backdriveability (although this can be nice since the robot usually holds position when it turns off), very loud operation, low efficiency, and pretty low acceleration. Brushless motors require higher reduction and closed loop control, but are quiet, efficient, and can be used to build very responsive + high regen robots. Driving them is the weak link: the 56 V odrive dual driver cost a whopping $150. However for $70-80 per motor you get 40-90 amps continuous for 2 to 5 kilowatts, WITH regen and accuracy to >512 steps. That can be over 20 watts per dollar for the motor, reduction, sensors and driver. The limiting factor is even finding motors that can handle that power.

If your budget is <$500, go for steppers. If it's >$800, I'd go for brushless. You'll get an immense amount of speed and power, both of which are very good for an arm with a 3' reach. Note that 3' is a very large arm- the weight of the arm itself will be very limiting if you don't used fairly sophisticated techniques. 8"-12" sections are a hassle to 3d print. Rotational inertia increases with reach^2 so you'll need quadratically more power for the same acceleration (and to fight wobble). A 26" arm will require only half the power.

> Do I start my design from the end effector or do I start at the base?

I'd start at the end effector- that will set your payload weight and the torque required at the next joint, and so on back to the shoulder. Doing it the other way requires a lot more iteration.

The one thing I always say on posts like this is to learn how to use bearings. Bearings are the #1 cause of wobble in poorly designed arms, and the easiest way to tell if the designer had any clue what they were doing. Use 608 bearings for everything you can. They're incredibly cheap and precise because they're used in skateboards- 20 to 50 cents each. They're deep groove bearings, which are excellent for machinery, and can take 300 lbs radial and 150 lbs axial static load and 2-3x that for dynamic load. They're easily a 50x better value than any other types of bearings. If you want other bearings (maybe very large thin section) go to onlinebearingstore, despite having a 2000s era website/name they're really great. Unrelated, theoringstore is also really great.

The most important thing to know about bearings is that they always, always need a preload. The bearing will not meet specs if it does not have some axial force. It will have a very noticeable play and will wear out quickly. This is why you always use bearings in pairs- not because they can't take it, but because you can't preload a single bearing. You need two bearings to be pressed together. I like disc springs for this, but shims and even just bolts also work well for providing the axial force. You can usually just set your preload by feel (so make it possible to bolt down one bearing closer to the other), but if you want to do the math it's good to aim for an axial force of 50% of the maximum radial force you expect. That can come from static load, or torque from twisting the bearing.

When I was 12 I bought a toolbox and started filling it with the things I used the most. Ten years later, here's what's in the toolbox I always take with me:

• Paperclips (small & large) - Never underestimate the utility of long, poky things. I keep some on my keychain, as well & use them often.
  
• Leatherman - This gets the most use out of any tool I own. I usually keep it in my backpack.
  
• Handheld blowtorch - Good for lighting candles, inspiring fear.
  
• 2-part, 5-minute epoxy
  
• Marine epoxy - Has the consistency of clay, but hardens even underwater. Can be used to fix cracked or leaking pipes in a pinch.
  
• Duct tape
  
• Hemostats (curved & straight) - A must if you ever work with small things. They can clamp down to hold two things together, freeing a hand up.
  
• Dinky drill - Get one of these. At first I thought it was lame, but having a small, cordless drill around for quickly disassembling things and drilling small holes saves a lot of time & effort.
  
• Zip ties (small, large) - These are light and very strong. They come in handy for random things and work like a charm.
  
• Hacksaw blades - Just keep a few in the toolbox. I use them primarily to make lockpicks out of. Wrap a length of cord around half of one and use it to saw through small pieces of metal in tight places.
  
• Lockpicks - Having a set of lockpicks and knowing how to use them can come in extremely handy. I keep a set in my car and another in my backpack. Read the MIT Guide to get started.
  
• Digital calipers - Nice for measuring small things to a high precision.
  
• Goof off - Good for getting random stains out & removing sticker residue.
  
• Masking tape - I use lots of this.
  
• Electrical tape - I don't use as much of this, but you should have some anyway.
  
• Wire strippers - You can strip wire with a knife, but these save time.
  
• Latex gloves - These are light, low-volume, and very useful for working with messy things like epoxy.
  
• Rubber mallet - This is one of the first things I bought, and though it doesn't get as much use as most of the other tools, I've never regretted buying it.
  
• Sharpie markers - You always need them, and you never have them. Keep some in your toolbox & away from your desk so they don't get ideas from your ballpoint pens & walk away.
  
• Needle & thread - Good for fixing popped buttons and such.
  
• Microfile set (also called Jeweler's files) - These come in extremely handy when working with small things.
  
• eXacto knives - Everyone should have a set of these.
  
• Carpenter's triangle - Very useful for woodworking. This can save you a lot of time if you learn all its uses.
  
• Hand drill - I just picked this up recently, but it's come in really handy for precision-drilling small holes or pilot holes.
  
• Channel locks - These will hold you off until you have the space & money to buy a full wrench and socket set.
  
  There's a few other things that don't fit in my tool box but I feel should be mentioned:
  
  
• A good, 1/2" CORDED drill - Don't skimp here. Cordless drills have rechargeable batteries that always wear out and need to be replaced. Use the dinky drill for those kinds of jobs. If you buy a nice corded drill & clean it occasionally, you may never have to buy another one again.
  
• Rope - I keep a good length of rope in my car & have used it many times.
  
• Steel coat hangers - These are terrible for hanging clothes, but they can be used to make all sorts of things.
  
• Dremel tool - You can do anything with a dremel tool and enough cutoff wheels.
  
• A hand saw - You can cut pieces of wood pretty precisely with a good hand saw & a little practice, and it's much more compact than the equivalent power tool.
  
• Towel - No explanation needed.
  
  Anyway, these are the things I've taken off to college with me, and they work for 98% of all the jobs I've needed to do over the past four years. Anyway, hope this helps, and good luck to you.
  
  Edit: The links are to things I have bought, not necessarily the best or cheapest example of each item.
  

JB Weld might work, but I think you'd be better off with plastic steel putty. Definitely more expensive than JB Weld, but it does better with plastics. Whatever you do, make sure to rough up the surfaces that come in contact with the glue with some coarse sandpaper before application. The problem with gluing most plastic parts is that glues don't like to stick to them very well.

If you can, I'd definitely recommend putting a bolt down into the center of the joint (one that you can hand-tighten into the free piece should do the trick). You can clip the head off of the bolt and then just screw it down into the hole with a little of the putty around the edges.

Finally, perhaps now is the time to go get a plastic welder. Tack the pieces together with a soldering iron, make sure you have the right rod, and go to town (after you've practiced getting a good bead). That will be stronger than pretty much any glue you can get, and usually ends up stronger than the original part.

agreeing with everything /u/Alfa_Alesi said, but just my suggestion to help the situation you're currently in;

1. remove the tank from the bike, drain and dry the inside of the it thoroughly (im talking hot air blowing through it for about 24 hours type of dry)
   
   
2. clean the inside with a dry lint free or micro-fiber cloth and remove all internal components
   
   
3. order you up some caswell tank sealant and follow the directions on that bad boy
   
   
4. do your best to search for non-ethanol gas stations in your area and stick with those.
   
   it really depends on where you are, some places in the USA have next to none in a 500 mile radius, and some places have 'em on every corner. where i live here they're really sparse, so i keep a few of the 5 gallon cans in my garage and just top off my bike every time i go for a ride.
   
   Here's a site that helps. but if you can't find non-ethanol close by, the fuel treatment stuff is your next best choice. i haven't used any myself yet, so i can't entirely recommend a particular product for ya. i just stick with non-ethanol stations exclusively.
   
   oh and for long term storage, (say maybe over the winter) keeping the tank completely full will help prevent that spotting, and fuel stabilizer helps the gas from going rotten.
   
   hope this all helps

Eyebrow Cover - Elmer's Glue, Pros-aide Cream. Raven talking about Bianca recommending it to her.

Powder - Coty Airspun is the best on the market for the cost. You can literally get it at Walmart, and for Translucent Powder the only thing that matters is the texture. Ben Nye Luxury Powder is the other standard, but it's pricier. The "girl, look how orange you fucking look, girl" powder is Topaz. A ton of queens of color use the Banana powder, and even cis women use it now because Kim K's makeup artist uses it on her. Ben Nye also makes a Super White powder that gets used over their Clown White foundation for very stark highlights, like under the brow. I believe Super White is the powder Sharon Needles uses to look ghostly. Raven's preferred pressed white powder is Mac Studio Fix in Shivering White.

Foundations - Kryolan TV Paintstick has been the industry standard for about a decade now. It used to be MaxFactor Panstik, but they discontinued it in the US. Jackie Beat bought all of it that she could in bulk when that happened, but then I think eventually switched to Kryolan. Dermablend was originally formulated to cover burns, so it also gets used. I believe Katya used it on Drag Race, if she doesn't still use it. Ben Nye Clown White is the product that Nina accused everyone of stealing from her, and is an incredibly versatile product. Manila Luzon used it in her makeup tutorial to cover her black brows.

Eyeshadows - Sugarpill Pro Palette is pretty ubiquitous at this point, but they were founded in like 2010 so there are still old-school queens who are holdouts. Bulletproof and Tako are just about the best black and white eyeshadows on the market. Trixie and Farrah both use Dollypop constantly. On the other hand, they mostly concentrate on crayola colors and less on browns. La Femme and Mac are basically responsible for Raven's beige face. Miss Fame uses a lot of Cozzette Infinite Eyeshadow.

Lip Pencils - MAC are basically the standard. Nothing else comes to mind. I've used drug store pencils, but these are the only ones I've gone out of my way for. Sharon swears by Nightmoth lip liner.

Lip Color - OCC Lip Tar used to be everywhere, but Jeffree Star seems to have put them out of business. Traditional lipsticks are easy to make, so basically any drugstore brand does the job if you can find a color you like.

Highlighters - Jeffree Star Skin Frost, Anastasia Beverly Hills Glow Kit. These didn't used to be a thing. In Manila's 2011 makeup tutorial she used dots of MAC loose pigment in Vanilla for this purpose, and that was kind of groundbreaking because it was how her face didn't look matte after being powdered to hell.

Okay, I'll try to get this done on mobile.

Headlights: heat them and pop them open. It's honestly a huge pain in the ass Lol. Mask off and paint the internal bezel to your preference, but at least leave the ribbed and textured parts silver to ensure you still get good beams out of your lights. (The corner turn lens is also in there, see below for the tinting process.) Buy some butyl rubber ribbon and use that to heat and reseal your lights. I'll post links to the process I followed if I can dig them up on my PC. it's a little labor intensive, but the unique look is worth it.

Taillights and front corner turn signals: follow the process for applying VHT Nightshade spray on tint. I think mine are 3 or 4 coats and then clear coat. The clear reverse lights were masked for the tint and unmasked for the clear. You can then sand and buff them to whatever level of gloss you want. Mine were left slightly matted.

Lift/shocks/wheels/tires: it's an RC 2" bb with load levelers I got from Kolak on Jeep forums. Wheels are Discount tire MB TKOs and tires are 265/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs.

It's got a pinchweld mod to clear the tires.

If you want deeper info say the word and I'll give you a deeper write up when I'm on a PC.

EDIT for links

Audi allroad Quattro

This was by far the nicest vehicle I’ve worked on. My aunt was in town and asked me to clean up her car, but I only had about three hours to give it quick in and out so I had to do what I could. The interior had a nice layer of dust over everything, there was dog hair in most of the upholstery, the mats were covered in dirt and salt from the winter, and the leather seats all had a noticeable bit of dirt on them. The outside wasn’t too bad besides the wheels, which were nearly black from all the brake dust. There was also a bunch of tar around the wheels which I removed.

Products:

Interior

Carpro Inside

Leather scrub brush

All-purpose microfiber

Scrub brush

Rubber mats pressure washed and scrubbed with carpet brush and Britemax Interior Cleaner

Dog hair removed with scrub brush & vacuum

Wheels & Tires

Iron X

Meguiar’s All-Purpose Cleaner 4:1

Meguiar’s Hyper Wash

Multiple wheel brushes – Adam’s Wheel Face brush, Adam’s long handled brush, wheel woolies, Tuff Shine Tire Brush, & Carrand wheel brush

Wash

Foam gun with Carpro IX Snow Soap

2BW with Carpro Reset

Meguiar’s microfiber wash mitt

Decontamination

Carpro IX

Carpro Tar X

Meguiar’s mild clay

ONR clay lube dilution

Plastic razor

LSP

Carpro Eraser

Carpro Hydro2

Other

Meguiar’s Glass Cleaner Concentrate

Ammo Mud

Total time: 3 hours



Like I said, I didn’t have a ton of time on this car so I had to do what I could and split my time evenly on the interior and exterior. The wheels easily took about 45 minutes total which really had me rushing to get the rest of the exterior done. My aunt was very happy with the results and asked when she should have me do it again. Next time I’ll be able to plan and have more than a few hours to get more involved since this was kind of a spur of the moment detail. This is a beautiful car in and out and felt lucky to have gotten to work on it. I forget what year model this is, either a 2014 or 2015.

Credit to /u/zenautodetailing for the write up format. Links reflect where I bought the products. Many of these items should be on Amazon Prime.

Thanks for looking!

Get some blue painters tape, some good drop cloth to protect and cover the stuff under and around this, and some 3M gasket adhesive:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08001-Weatherstrip-Gasket-Adhesive-5/dp/B000HTNNDA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3m+gasket+glue&qid=1568910027&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Clean the area with some rubbing alcohol, put some of this between the surfaces (not too much that it oozes out) and then get it tightly wrapped up to set. The shit is magical but gooey and stringy as hell when you are dispensing it.

I've used this on door gaskets on Audis before. This is for the gasket stuck onto the door with that nicer double sided tape that likes to detach over time. Simply clean the surfaces, dribble a line of this stuff on and use some painters tape or something to hold it in place while it sets. For door gaskets the bleed out wouldn't be a big deal, but for the e-brake you'd see it. This glue is pretty robust, but given the cosmetic nature you'd want to be really careful on how much you use. Maybe play with it to get a sense for how quick it sets up if you want to spread it around lightly.

Thanks! The blue is actually Superior polyester knife-grade, with a blue dye from Stonecoat countertops, followed by the cheapest clear epoxy resin I could find on amazon. I was pretty happy with how everything turned out, especially compared to how it looked when I bought it.
Dye: https://www.stonecoatcountertops.com/product-page/metallic-colors
Superior Polyester: https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Polyester-Transparent-Knife-Grade-Laminating/dp/B01I1YRD56

This stuff is expensive, but amazing.

It's just adhesive on a plastic backing- but you press something onto it, and after ~2 minutes, you can peel it off and the adhesive will stay on it.

You probably won't go this way, but I think it's an impressive product. Originally for reinstalling badges on cars- and it works like a charm for that too. What I will say (incase you buy some) is that you'll want to clean both the rubber and the place it mounts before using it, or it'd be a waste.

The main advantage of MMA is that it chemically bonds to plastic, creating one solid unit - whereas epoxies are dependent on mechanical keying between the set epoxy and imperfections in the surfaces being bonded. In addition, set MMA has mechanical properties similar to plastic and does not create stress concentrations as strong as epoxy does when the underlying plastic flexes. That advertised "130kg/cm^2" probably represents ideal conditions, i.e. porous and inflexible surfaces with force applied evenly, which will not be met when someone trips and falls on an integration.

MMA can be ordered online:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-84115-5-minute-Plastic-Adhesive/dp/B000ALBZK8/ref=sr_1_43?ie=UTF8&qid=1527606011&sr=8-43&keywords=plastic+epoxy

You can do a 'good enough' integration without MMA, but you seem to care a lot about the strength of your finished product. I am aware of no practically feasible way to match the strength that it provides when bonding plastic to plastic.

That is a sweet score, the divorce boat wouldn't be added to my collection but that Necky is a nice find.

Yes, you can repair it reasonably easy and cheap. Get some Marine-Tex and start patching.

Otherwise find a local that does fiberglass repair, couple hundred bucks and it will be good as new.

AlumiSeal is also a real easy, low risk additive you can put in the radiator. Worth the $5.

It does sound like a hose, but I recommend A.S. As a quick easy thing to try for small leaks. It's real safe and a good treatment for the radiator

http://www.amazon.com/AlumAseal-ASBPI12-Radiator-Powder-Blister/dp/B000FW61M4

Shopping list for new UK player:

• Battleforce (or the new £100 ones)
  
• Primer
  
• Knife
  
• Cutters
  
• Plastic Glue (Citadel is fine, or alternative)
  
• OPTIONAL Super glue, you'll only need this for resin figures really.
  
• Dice
  
• Templates
  
• Bubblewrap and shoebox, for models
  
• Paints. You actually don't need too many to begin with.
  
• Washes. GW do good shades. Agrax Earthshade will almost definitely be needed.
  
• Old tupperware lid or lid from a plastic takeaway box, for mixing paints on. Do this until you want to move onto a wet palette.
  
• 40k Rulebook. Honestly, I'd get that full £50 version, don't just get the rules if you're starting.
  
• Codex
  
  If abroad it'll be fairly similar but you'll have to adapt it yourself.
  
  Don't buy the GW hobby tools. They're way too expensive. Also if you're starting out seriously consider buying paints from Vallejo or Army Painter. I'd still get your shades from Games Workshop unless you're playing necrons or something in which case just get an Army Painter Quickshade.
  
  Assemble and paint your models first. Worry about basing them after you've painted up the battle force.
  
  I wouldn't buy a GW case. A spray varnish of some sort will be enough to protect your models if they're all plastic (but one metal model in with a bunch of plastic models will just fly around and smash up every plastic model like you've let a Daemon Prince loose in a guard regiment).
  
  I'd personally say definitely buy the rulebook and codex, instead of trying to just buy the rules or using battlescribe instead of a codex. The books are great reads, and will get you into the game.

Honestly superglue is probably the best option, unless you can get some sort of powder filler like this https://www.amazon.com/Q-Bond-QB2-Repair-Kit/dp/B00HX704NG

Q-Bond QB2 Ultra Strong Adhesive Repair Kit https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002XF4S6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.zJ2AbT61FQ0E

This is pretty good stuff.

I've gotten worse to seal on a car tire. I'm not saying you should try but the only real thing that part of the tire does is seal the bead to the rim. The steel bands in the bead are the structural part of the tire.

We used the stuff below to seal damaged beads, and had pretty good success.

Xtra Seal Bead Sealer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GKD722/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gDpWCbGA5B3M9

well ive also found this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UJ1EF4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

might be good. i like that i can machine it. i could also use clay but id rather not have to deal with clay if i can help it.

Thread seal tape is used to make it easier to tighten and loosen threads because it acts as a lubricant. For this reason I prefer to use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088YEGXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is sort of like loctite, but it is safe for use with plastics. I use it on my mounting bolts and binding hardware, have never had any issues.

Optional, but first, get you a little bottle of CA glue (cyanoacrylate, same as krazy glue or whatever). Just glue enough to hold the piece together for the next step:

Go to the auto parts store and look in the Bondo section. You'll find an adhesive metal mesh type patch that can go on the inside. Use that and some 2-part epoxy on the back side to get the structure of it all squared up.

For the front, ideally you'll just have the crack showing. Easiest thing is to just fill that with Bondo. That way you can sand it back down and get it smooth (of course, you'll have to repaint).

If the fairing is ABS, I've got another trick for you. It's called "the slush". We use this for ABS stormtrooper costumes. Get some ABS plastic, like from a sheet or something. Cut it up into as small of pieces as you can (like sawdust is even better). Put it in a jar with acetone. ABS will 100% dissolve in acetone, leaving a slush behind. Use a paintbrush and paint some acetone onto your fairings, getting them a bit melty right there where its broken. Then apply the slush as a filler. When it all dries out, it'll be one solid piece chemically welded together.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

Xtra seal

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Wow. Lots of rough advice here. Permatex makes a two part epoxy they call "Plastic Weld." It's ugly, but it will do the job. Find another piece of similar plastic to use as scrap, glue your knocked out piece onto it, and then glue the whole patch piece to the back of this panel.

It'll be stronger than it was when it was new.

If you're having issues posting, please make sure that your hand is attached to the mouse, then navigate to the Save button.

My manifold has a nice crack right in the crotch where the two banks meet. I gooped it up with ThermoSteel a year ago and it's still fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UJ1EF4/

Any ideas for dealing with this at home? I've always used bondo and rust converter, but this has finally gotten quite big and I'm not sure how to proceed. Don't have welding equipment.

Opinion on those net things you can buy for structural support for bondo? Here's what I'm looking at -
Bondo 932 Self Adhesive Patch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HA9O5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2PpFzbCTZVRTW

Of course but you'll need to find it first - what material is the canoe made from?

Something like this usually works:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0014419V0/ref=mp_s_a_1_6

Once they "bottom out" I would snug them up with a screwdriver. Another option is to use threadlocker such as https://www.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-213-Threadmate-Threadlocker-Degree/dp/B0088YEGXM/ to prevent them from coming loose. Be careful how tight you make them as they do break rather easy.

Qbond, you'll thank me later.

Q-Bond QB2 Repair Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HX704NG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VViSzb1NN06Q8

Even if it's not, sounds like a good opportunity to do it yourself. I haven't done one in years, but Devcon used to be the go-to for bedding - It may still be. Don't forget the Kiwi.

Not bad, but I'd suggest stepping up to 3M Window-Weld (AKA Butyl rope). This stuff is super sticky and never dries out or loses it's elasticity. It's also waterproof.

I used it in my build last summer to kill metal on metal rattles and it was really effective.

Ce fel de lipici/spumă îmi trebuie să lipsesc o bucată de plastic de o altă bucată de metal/plastic (s-a rupt ceva la un mecanism, și vreau să-l repar).

Vreau ceva ușor de folosit, nu hot glue, etc.

Un link către Amazon ar fi grozav.

Edit: am cumpărat asta și asta, nu știu dacă sunt bune, puteți recomanda și altceva.

Try threadlocker

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0088YEGXM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527655083&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=vibra-tite+vc3&dpPl=1&dpID=51Xoplr-IcL&ref=plSrch

3M makes a body trim and weather strip adhesive.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08001-Yellow-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B000HTNNDA

tipo isso? https://www.amazon.com/Caswell-Epoxy-Gas-Tank-Sealer/dp/B009T8BUG2

First, get a spray bottle of dish soap and water. Spray the rim down and confirm (again) where it is leaking.

Then dismount the tire, or at least break the bead and use this. https://www.amazon.com/Group%C2%AE-14-101-XTRA-Seal-Sealer/dp/B000GKD722

are you gonna bed that action?

http://www.amazon.com/Devcon-10110-Plastic-Steel-Bottle/dp/B00065TMTO

just ordered some to do mine.

I think I found what I'm looking for. Just in case anyone else has the same question here is a link to what I found. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-8024-ThermoSteel-High-Temp/dp/B002UJ1EF4

I just bought some of this: https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Tex-Epoxy-Putty-White-Ounce/dp/B0014419V0/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1498250219&sr=8-18&keywords=fiberglass+epoxy
Havn't tried it yet myself but has good reviews (this really for fiberglass damage tho)