(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best camera & photo filters

heading to the Rockies later this year to do my first ever travel type filming ( I know this is the photography subreddit, but y'all are super knowledgeable).

I wanted to pick up an ND filter for my Panasonic G7, and I can't decide on which one. I know variables are much better, but it's quite an expensive trip already and I'm so new, I don't want to spend too much on sort of a niche item when I already have so much to learn that can be focused on to make my shots better.
Which would you recommend? And how would you recommend I use it to get the best shots? Timelapse of waterfalls/rapids/canoeing? etc

https://www.amazon.ca/Gobe-ND8-46mm-ND-Filter/dp/B06XVGKHLP/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1525949488&sr=8-12&keywords=nd+filter+46mm

https://www.amazon.ca/Tiffen-46mm-Neutral-Density-Filter/dp/B00004ZC92/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1525949488&sr=8-6&keywords=nd+filter+46mm

I'm only about 1.5 years into DSLR photography, but I'm a meteorologist, so storm chasing and weather photography is most of what I do. It's all dependent on your camera and what time of day it is. If it's day time, you're going to need a good neutral density filter, narrow aperture, and low ISO. Then just adjust your shutter speed as needed so you don't get overexposed. This will be most dependent on the ND filter you get. Hoya makes a good one.

For night time, it really depends on the frequency of your strikes and how fast your camera can write to your card. In my experience, I find that I would rather take more shots at 8-10 seconds than 30 second exposures because my camera takes longer to write that 30 second exposure to the card before it's ready to take another picture. That time it's writing to the card is time wasted where a strike could be happening that I'm missing. You be the judge...if you have a ton of lightning, you may be okay with that. But then again, if you have a ton of lightning, you also may have too much light to do a 30 second exposure.

Settings wise, in my experience at night, F/8 - F/11...ISO of 100 and an exposure of about 10 seconds is usually what I start with and go from there. The more frequent the strikes, the more "exposed" your shot is going to be so you'll have to tweak things while you're out there. Your shot may not look right until a strike lights up the sky. Get yourself a remote trigger and just keep firing over and over again so you don't have any time where you're not shooting.

If I can recommend a good radar app, get RadarScope. It is the best radar app for iOS/Android out there. Yes, it is $10, but I use this while storm chasing as radar in my vehicle. Highly recommend it. It doesn't have lightning data in it, but it will at least tell you if you can stay outside long enough to keep dry. It's the cadillac of radar apps. Of course there are plenty of free alternatives that will do you just fine as well.

Of course, all of this is my camera (a Nikon) and my experience. Yours may vary entirely. I see this shot was F/4, 30 seconds and ISO 100. I think I have a lot more light pollution than you do. :)

I just did a bunch of research on 82mm 10-stop filters. It seemed like in the end the best options were either to spend $150+ on a B+W, Lee etc filter, or go with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNARENC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This product was kickstarted and got great reviews on Amazon and on the web. I mean, it's under $40 so I don't expect perfection but I'd rather spend my money elsewhere than super pricey filters that I will use only on a low % of shots.

As for polarizers, I use a Hoya that is mostly fine. Expensive though. I know someone else with an Amazon basics polarizer that they love - and it's super cheap.

I second the other posters idea to buy a large size and then use step-up rings to fit smaller lenses to it.

Fresh into getting into drones, I pick up my Mavic Pro from Target today after work. However, I have a couple hundred hours of experience with R/C flight with airplanes so I've got experience there. I'm flying out to Kauai on vacation tomorrow morning and will be learning all about the new toy while heading out to the island and hopefully be able to get good enough at it to capture some decent shots of the island.

My questions is regarding gymbal filters for the Mavic Pro. I anticipate I'll be in some pretty bright daylight conditions, do I need to pick up some gymbal filters? The very little looking I've done says PolarPro filters are what folks recommend.

Would this 6-pack cover everything I need? I don't know that I would be able to get these in time for my trip tomorrow morning unless I can find a camera shop that carries them.

How important are these filters?

Will I be able to get decent shots / footage without them and edit in post?

Which filters do I need or don't need. I live in Washington so overcast weather is very common. But would love to be able to shoot in direct sunlight and have good results also. Polarized? UV?

Cheers

https://www.amazon.com/Polar-Filters-Mavic-Filters-Cinema-6-Pack/dp/B01MQUMIQ4/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525279854&sr=8-11-spons&keywords=dji+mavic+gimbal+filter&psc=1

Yeah, the 50mm is a mild tele on a crop sensor - perfect for some things, but a bit restrictive. The 24mm is great, and so cheap that it's hard to go wrong with it. Won't even save any money getting it used.

For cars (or other highly reflective things), a polarizer filter is a really great accessory. The pancake doesn't rotate as it focuses so it makes it easy to use.

52mm thread. Amazon has them for $10. Get a little step-up ring and you can use it with your nifty fifty too - which is very usable for car photography too, lots of opportunity for close-ups there.

So a few months ago, I gave myself a budget of $5000 for everything I’d need to be a One Man Video Army. Besides an empty Lowell hard case and a pair of headphones, I had nothing in the picture above before commencing the buying spree. The grand total ended up coming to around $5500 or so but I’m pretty stoked to have stuck fairly close to my initial budget.

Here's a detailed list of everything in the picture above:

ITEM | WHAT I PAID | COST NEW | LINK TO BUY NEW

-- | :-- | :-- | :--
Panasonic GH5 w/Rode Videomic Pro, 2 SD cards and batteries|$1,000.00|$1,500.00|B&H
Lumix 12-35mm 2.8|$550.00|$900.00|Amazon
Mitakon 25mm 0.95 Prime|$300.00|$350.00|B&H
Sigma 50-100mm 1.8|$750.00|$1,100.00|B&H
Tokina 11-16 2.8|$250.00|$400.00|B&H
Viltrox EF-M2 Speedbooster|$150.00|$200.00|B&H
Manfrotto 502 Video Tripod|$400.00|$400.00|B&H
Tripod Bag|$25.00|$25.00|Amazon
Panasonic XLR Adapter|$300.00|$400.00|Amazon
Sennheiser Wireless Mic System|$450.00|$600.00|Amazon
LowePro Camera Bag|$75.00|$75.00|B&H
Neewer 3-Light LED 660 Kit w/Fovitec stands|$350.00|$350.00|Amazon
Kessler Slider w/tripod head|$400.00|$900.00|B&H
Hoya 43mm Filter Kit|$35.00|$35.00|Amazon
Hoya 58mm Filter Kit|$40.00|$40.00|Amazon
Feelworld F570 Monitor|$200.00|$200.00|Amazon
Zoom H6 Recorder|$250.00|$400.00|B&H
Neewer 5-in-1 Reflector|$20.00|$20.00|Amazonn

Given my budget, there really wasn’t much debate over what camera would best suit my needs. I’m doing a lot of paid corporate and event video work, but I also shoot films and documentaries. So the GH5 made the most sense given its quality, versatility, and value. I can transport and operate all of this stuff without the need for additional crew, which is especially nice when a client doesn’t want to pay for that.

I’ve shot a few films and several paid gigs with this set already and it’s working out well so far. Happy to answer any questions over why I chose one thing over the other. We all have our preferences with equipment :)

>Filter Strength: This really depends on what you're looking to accomplish.

in the past ive tried to take some longer exposures of waterfalls or streams and of course they were completely blown out because it was middle of the day. id like to be able to do some photos like that. current goal is getting a decent shot of the buckingham fountain when i go to chicago in a few weeks as well as maybe some long exposure shots of the rivers.

ive never really got to do this before so i can't say what ill need. 3 seconds sound like more than enough to get a nice blur on a fountain or river, but doesnt seem like enough when shooting an ocean or clouds (but i could be completely wrong).

>Variable ND filters are useful but - again - can be pricey depending on the quality and range of exposures you want to cover. It's up to you to determine if the convenience is worth the $$.

i found a a variable tiffen (2 - 8 stops) on amazon for $90. reviews are mostly positive (some people complain of a black X when using higher stops), its in my price range (barely), and seems more convenient than buying multiple filters or guessing what one filter i actually need.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TFU80I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xZ9fzbNCC90TW

i dont want to spend too much or get anything overly fancy. this is strictly a part time hobby, not trying to go pro or anything. i just want to be able tk take some cool pics when i travel.

Here are some options:

$8 reversal ring

$10 extension tubes, $40 if you want aperture control (I forgot you guys don't have aperture control rings...)

$40 bellows


Summary: With your current lens I'd say the $40 extension tubes are your best bet as they allow aperture control. Getting true macro sizes will be best with the bellows and the reversal ring however you will want a lens with an aperture ring so that you can stop down to extend your depth of field. If you are using a reversal ring it doesn't even have to be a canon lens, just buy a lens that you can thread onto your reversal ring... in fact, here's a really good setup:

$40 bellows + $7 reversing ring + $3 46-52mm or 49-52mm step up ring + $30 55mm takumar = $80

With this setup you can go all the way to 3x life size and have full aperture control. Just be sure to use it on a tripod, (and you'll probably want to light it with a flash) extreme macro shots are tricky!

I shoot mainly speedball but I do woodsball infrequently. I'm inside the net and I typically stand on the corner during the break, move about 1/4 way down the field and get shots from that angle, and then move to the center 50 for the rest of the game. If the game is obviously going to one team I move down to the opposite side of the field and capture the player hanging the flag. I typically shoot one team at a time and get breakout shots, players moving to their first bunker, and then players inserting/at their bunker from another angle. I spend most of my time at snake.

How often I get hit depends on the division (experience level of the players). During practice, not a lot of paint is flying compared to tournaments, so I get hit maybe 5 times in a day. During local tournaments, everyone is around D4 (lowest level of tournament), so if I'm on the snake side, I catch the end of a lane a bit often. Maybe a dozen shots in a day, tops. When I photographing higher divisions and pros I typically do not get hit. They're very very good at hitting their targets and nothing else. How often I get hit also depends on the size of the sideline.

I used to shoot with a D5000 with a 70-300 4.5-5.6 VR. Since PSP MAO I've been shooting with a D7100.

As far as keeping my gear safe, I always have a lens hood and a B+W 67mm UV filter on my lens. It can take a direct hit (I've been fortunate enough to be hit only once). Sometimes I wrap a small shirt around my lens to protect from paint splatter and so I can wipe my hands.

Hope this helps!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XYL8RW4/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I've gotten a few Neewer brand products for my Sony a6300 and have always been impressed with the quality of their gear compared to price.
I got these lenses on Friday and they worked great. I took the mavic out on a really clear and bright day and was able to keep the shutter speed at 50 shooting at 24 frames using the nd 16 filter.
I got home and uploaded some footage and it looked great!

Do you have a link to where you bought them? Are you sure they're for GoPro? With a Hero6 camera, your ND filters should be square, as they replace the front lens cover, like this. The only round ones I've seen for the Hero5-7 line come with an adapter accessory to fit over the lens housing for a 52mm DSLR-style filter kit like this

There are older styles for the older cameras, which pressed onto the lens of the cameras where the lens was exposed all the time.

It looks like what you're using is something like this, which isn't for your model of camera. Are you sure you didn't buy a kit for Hero4 and are trying to press the filter onto the lens of your camera after you took the lens cover off? Because that's what it looks like to me.

Recently bought a few knick knacks for mine.

• ICE 67mm ND1000 Filter Neutral Density ND 1000 67 10 Stop Optical Glass, great price and has a lot of great reviews.
  
  
• Manfrotto MTPIXIEVO-BK PIXI EVO 2 Section Mini Tripod, needed a little tripod I could carry with me everywhere.
  
  
• Foto&Tech IR Wireless Remote Control for Sony Alpha Cameras, useful for all occasions.
  
  
• B+W 67mm CLEAR UV HAZE MRC (010M), just a little extra protection when the weather is bad. Great quality brass ring.
  
  
• 49 mm - 67 mm Filter Adapter Step-Up, so I can use the filters on my 55-210mm.
  
  
• Case Logic SLRC-203, needed a new bag that could fit everything, including big tripod and found this.
  

Oh I wholeheartedly recommend the 35mm f1.8 dx, I just think that it might not be the right lens for landscape shots in the classical sense, which are typically a bit wider in terms of focal length (think 15-30mmish for crop sensors). Then again, people take stunning landscapes with tele zooms, so there's that. It all depends on the scenery and what you envision.

You should definitely read about those filters, there are tons of articles, tutorials and videos available. Like this or this or whatever comes up when you google "what does a polarizer do".

The thing is, with the bundle you linked, it's too expensive IMHO. Tiffen is a reputable company, but especially if you don't know what a polarizer does yet wanna play around with one, I'd recommend getting something cheap but good like this.

• This PolarPro set includes 3 filters, a lens guard, and gimbal guard. I have all 3 of these products and love them!. PolarPro is an excellent brand, especially when it comes to filters (which are an absolute necessity if you are shooting in sunny conditions and don't want a jello-look to your videos).
  
  
• Definitely get a propeller guard. I like SSE's because they have a quick release system. Just to note, if you have a tight-fitting case these may not work for you.
  
  
• I like having a lanyard on my remote. You probably don't need to buy a fancy one, any old lanyard lying around will work.
  
• I don't think you need a shorter cable. I just have a twist tie on one of my regular iPhone cables.

Try not to laugh at my extremely amateur comment here, but on amazon I see "starter" kits like these. Is this something that would be good for me to try out considering the price? A lot of the comments talk about a magenta hue being added to the photo, but I'm sure I'll be able to correct that.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UFG6LU2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A25BIGUW7MK12R

I completely understand that these aren't good. And also, do you have any experience with the variable ND filters? I've read some decent reviews of ones such as this Tiffen I will link. But I'm just super worried about vignetting.

http://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-67mm-Variable-ND-Filter/dp/B005TFU80I/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1452240260&sr=1-2&keywords=variable+ND+filter+tiffen

Hi /u/Trollashnikov - congratulations on the new camcorder - glad I could help!

I put [this little video] (https://youtu.be/HMisJFTBEpg) together for you to show how smooth the Ravelli is - and how easy it is to change cameras with the quick release.

The "lens hood" is my [Indie Matte aIR-matte 77mm matte box] (http://amzn.to/22Xj6XW) (with your V770's 49mm filter thread, you would need [49mm to 58mm] (http://amzn.to/22XkzgW) and [58mm to 77mm] (http://amzn.to/22Xj824) step up rings to make it work).

It uses Cokin P fliters (e.g., [this $20 set of ND filters] (http://amzn.to/1Ppif8y)), which slide right into the filter holder in front of the matte box.

The mic is a [used Audio Technica AT835b battery powered professional mic] (http://amzn.to/22Xjeqw) I picked up on eBay for $75, covered with a [WindTech MM-21 fuzzy windscreen] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FWTMM21.html), mounted on the camera with a [Campro Deluxe shock mount] (http://amzn.to/1Pph8pm) and plugged in with a [Hosa MIT-156 XLR to 3.5mm transformer/adapter] (http://amzn.to/1Pphcpe).

Again, hope this is helpful!

EDIT: Spelling, additional content

> $40 bellows + $7 reversing ring + $3 46-52mm or 49-52mm step up ring + $30 55mm takumar = $80

> With this setup you can go all the way to 3x life size and have full aperture control.

That isn't quite right. I mean, you can set the aperture on the Tak manually, but you'll have to focus first or the viewfinder will be too dark. It can't be set from the camera, as there is no linkage through the bellows.

Also, no need reverse the 55mm Tak. You could get to almost 3:1 without doing that, and it would be less hassle (just an m42 adapter for the bellows). You could also try sticking your current zoom on the end of it, without an adapter, provided it has an aperture ring. Zoom's are less predictable about working distance, so it would take some experimentation.

Tubes are easier, if they have aperture linkage. That should let you focus and meter with an open aperture, which makes the viewfinder bright enough. Do you have other lenses? Any primes? Primes generally work better for this. A 50mm lens on 50mm of tubes will get you to 1:1, the threshold for "true" macro. A shorter prime will get you more magnification, and a longer one will require more extension to achieve the same magnification (e.g. a 100mm lens will require 100mm extension to get 1:1). Remember that if you like this and want to go further, you can grab a second set of tubes and use some or all of them at the same time. You lose light and your effective aperture decreases with more extension though.

I'm rambling a bit, but if you have any other questions, fire away. Canon isn't my system, but I know most of the basics.

Ninja edit: IMPORTANT - does your camera meter properly with fully manual lenses? Entry level Nikons are gimped in this area, not sure about Canon. This would severely complicate things for you.

After doing more research - should I be getting a variable ND filter or a solid non-variable ND filter? Or a polarizing one?

In terms of brands, i'm looking at Fotga like the one /u/TheOmega3368 has, or:

• Gobe
  
• Tiffen
  
• Polaroid
  
  Anyone have experience with any of these variable ND filters and can recommend a brand? Again, would like it to be inexpensive, $30 or under!
  
  Thanks!
  
  

If you're just starting out with ND filters, I'd suggest choosing a lower end kit of ND filter just to see if LE photos are something you enjoy doing. For instance something like these!

If (and when :p) you find out you'll like Long Exposure photography, then I would strongly suggest investing in a higher quality set (think Lee Filters :).

There are tons of different makes and models on the market as you know .. but from a "best bang for buck" POV ... no sense breaking the bank for something you haven't yet had the opportunity to try out.

I bought [this set](http://www.Neewer.com/ 4 Pieces Filter Kit for DJI Mavic Pro Drone Quadcopter Includes: ND4, ND8, ND16 and ND32 Filter, Made of Multi Coated Waterproof Aluminum Alloy Frame Optical Glass (MC-16) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYL8RW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5ns8AbQHZD7W0) for my Mavic Pro. They work well so far. The construction is definitely cheaper than the Polar Pro from what I understand but they fit my needs fine. I haven't had any problems with them and I'm happy with the quality for the price.

I have no idea if these work on the air.

Prop Guards: There's lots of pros and cons. Frankly, I don't use them as I feel the cons far outweigh the pros. There's plenty of YouTube vids and Google hits if you want to see these reasons and then decide for yourself.

2nd battery is absolutely necessary. Who wants a 15 minute flight and then done? Especially if ever going to do real estate photography or the like. I have three and sometimes wish I had four.

Other accessories: I would absolutely buy some filters including ND for your lens is you want to get better photos and vids. THIS is a good set.

When I was starting out I wasn't sure what ND filters I needed so I purchased this filter set and have since been upgrading the filters as I need them with higher quality Cokin ones.
I found that this set looked surprisingly good for the price and allowed me to to experiment with graduated NDs as well as acted as a makeshift matte box. I also still use the holder for my current filters.
For anyone starting out I'd also highly recommend getting a circular polarizer, it's the one filter that never leaves my lens when shooting outside and it also adds a nice color pop and reduces catching glare and reflections.

If you're looking for cheap and reliable neutral density filters, I just bought these and they work great. Not as perfect as a "real" filter but it does a pretty good job
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00GTAKNWK/ref=pe_386430_126088100_TE_item

My friend uses these Polar Pros for his spark and really liked them.

It's important to make sure they don't interfere with your gimbal.

I'm looking for a ND square filter set, I've heard they can be really expensive too, but I found these ones online for pretty cheap. Do you think I'm really getting what I pay for, or is it just a great deal? Here's the two I've found so far...


One


And the other


I'd get the one from aliexpress because theres more filters, but there really isn't a good description of the product and what kinds of filters it has. From the pictures they both seem kind of cheap anyway but I don't know what to expect because these are the epitome of what have been coming up when I search.

I am looking for some advice on Neutral Density Filters.

I know what they do, but I am lost on whether to buy a variable, or a set of them. I have looked at some of the costs for variables, and at this time the only one I would feel comfortable purchasing is this one which will go up to 9 stops.

I was also looking at this set which will do 2,3 & 4 stops.

With no past experience with them, I am hoping someone can give me some insight. I know there are far better (and more expensive) versions, but for now I would just like to test the waters.

None so far. From my understanding you don't want to go above 1.4x, something to think about when it does come out.

I have seen people add glass to the front of the lens but cropping is usually better quality wise.
49-58mm stepup ring + Sony VCLHGD1758 1.7x Telephoto Conversion Lens

If you're up for a "unique" experience getting a mirror lens is an option to consider: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1003428-REG/bower_sly30063se_300mm_f_6_3_telephoto_digital.html

the 49 dollar set at best buy or even on amazon gives you good filters from polarpro at the cheaper price. its only a few bucks more than what youre think of getting.

https://www.amazon.com/PolarPro-Filter-3-Pack-Optical-Filters/dp/B073G9X7TR/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527040779&sr=8-4&keywords=polar+pro+spark+filters

Hoya is better you think? What do you think about this:

https://www.amazon.com/Hoya-58mm-Digital-Filter-Kit/dp/B00309CJIE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=hoya+filter&qid=1557840365&s=gateway&sr=8-4#customerReviews

It's quite cost efficient as well.

I actually used a really cheap-o Ice brand ND filter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNARENC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Since I needed an 82mm thread I didn't want to pay $150+ for a legit one so I gave the Ice brand a chance. It has really surprised me and been great!

Yes, there are filters that block visible light and let IR through. You can buy one for a camera too (depending on the type of camera/lens), but most definitely not for $10 mentioned by another poster.

http://www.amazon.com/Hoya-58mm-RM-72-Infrared-Filter/dp/B0000AI1HP

If you are using a film camera, you will need special IR-sensitive film. If you are using digital, then you will have to have the UV + IR filter removed from over the sensor.

Source: I'm a photographer.

Is there any brand or certain type of circular polarizer you recommend? This Tiffen 58mm lens on Amazon has fairly good reviews...

Nice! I picked up these guys. They're really helpful during really sunny days and when I'm shooting at the beach. I also shoot in JPG + RAW so I can color correct the RAW files after. I've got a few more shots on my new instagram. Check it out!

I'm looking to get a 10-stop ND before a trip to Iceland next month. Taking 3 lenses all Canon (16-35, 24-70, 70-200). Two are 82mm and one is 77mm filter size.

My question is: I have experience using screw on ND filters, but had been considering going with a filter holder and using 100mm square glass. In pricing everything out, this seems like a MUCH more expensive option. If I decide to forego the use of Grad ND and stick only to standard ND, would a single 82mm 10-stop ND and a 77mm step down ring do everything I need? It's like 1/5th the price unless I'm pricing this wrong.

Looking at this screw on ND ($30) based on feedback and sample images: http://www.amazon.com/ND1000-Filter-Neutral-Density-Optical/dp/B00GNARENC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463711813&sr=8-1&keywords=10+stop+ND+82mm

As opposed to Cokin Z Holder ($75) FotoDiox 82mm adapter ($25) and same brand of 4"x4" ND ($50).

Lastly, any recommendations for a decent polarizer in either 82mm or that fit a holder if I go that route?

I appreciate all the fast responses. I have researched a a bit and decided to go with these.
Macro Lens:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005C50H2Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Uv lens:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XNMWCF8/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Polarizer lens:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XNMXNV0/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Camera:
https://www.ebay.com/p/Nikon-D3400-DSLR-Camera-Body-Only-black/886214437?iid=172511228968&chn=ps&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fp%25252FNikon-D3400-DSLR-Camera-Body-Only-black%25252F886214437%25253Fiid%25253D172511228968%252526chn%25253Dps%2526itemid%253D172511228968%2526targetid%253D313776934696%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9052898%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D833559251%2526adgroupid%253D39417365901%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-313776934696%2526abcId%253D1123856%2526merchantid%253D8567664%2526gclid%253DCjwKCAjwt5DXBRAtEiwAa3vyEijalntN16m4qbG8DRZvYmt-5wBg5dFSSbEBT5f7NBkTr8MSWfoBPhoCNgkQAvD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1514306914752%2526rvr_ts%253D0f7ac2661630aad93b312adbfffe4164

Tripod:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/366230-REG/Nikon_822_Compact_Tripod_with_2_Way.html?ap=y&c3api=1876%2C92051678402%2C%2C&gclid=CjwKCAjwt5DXBRAtEiwAa3vyEpvng7_mfdC4T8JpbT4Q9RTy9EbGakAcC4xrgV7FQjh9FnJOUU6KvRoCb-AQAvD_BwE


Will this be sufficient for this use? Any recommendation other assessories that would be helpful?

B+W Polarizer when I've got sky/water that I wish to accentuate (or glare I need to rid of).

Tiffen Variable ND filter for run-n-gun stuff.

Breakthrough Photography ND Filter for things I care about.

I actually just invested in a 6-stop breakthrough filter to replace my Tiffen because I was starting to notice more and more unpredictable colorcast (it's still a very good filter). So far it's a vast improvement, but I don't know how functional it is compared to a variable filter... I'm personally hanging onto my Tiffen for some time before I part with it.

I'm new to photography and I have a Nikon D3200.

I want to buy some filters but I don't really know what to buy.

I want to know if this kit is any good to

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00A7U15V6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=12CHW0SLXX3F4&coliid=I1Y5LOA4437I2T

Basically I want to use it for my skies and for the water/waterfalls

Hello fellow photographers, especially, landscape photographers, I have some questions about using a circular polarizer filter along with an ND filter when shooting foliage and water.


My current setup consists of:

• Lee Foundation kit + 77mm adapter ring
  
• 10 Stop ND filter by Haida
  
  
  I put my adapter ring on top of my lens, then the foundation filter holder and then slide in the filter in the holder.
  
  
  I have been eyeing this filter: https://www.amazon.com/77mm-Circular-Polarizer-Multi-Resistant-Coating/dp/B0000BZLAD/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1488189576&sr=8-7&keywords=77mm+polarizing+filter
  
  
  The setup would be:
  
  
• The CPL filter which has threads on the outside
  
• The adapter ring
  
• Lee foundation kit holder + ND filter.
  
  
  
  My questions are:
  
  
• Will it cause too much vignetting with my Canon EF 16-35mm F/4L lens ?
  
• How can I use the same CPL over my Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L lens ?
  
• Is CPL even a good idea when shooting water and foliage ? Some sites say they are indispensable while some are saying one can do without them.
  
  
  
  I don't want to spend a fortune on a Lee square CPL filter and would like to stick to a screw on filter.
  
  
  

I've only used them once so far, the ones I got were these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073G9X7TR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Comparing footage to no filter, it does tend to smooth out certain transitions due to reducing the shutter speed. Def worth 20 bucks to improve the quality.

Just order a new CPL. Amazon prime with free next day shipping. We're only talking about $70-$80 for halfway decent CPL.
https://www.amazon.com/77mm-Circular-Polarizer-Multi-Resistant-Coating/dp/B0000BZLAD/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525092719&sr=8-5&keywords=circular+polarizer+77mm+B%2BW

I shoot documentary/brand/lifestyle films for larger brands. I use the Leica branded 42.5 f1.2 more than any other lens. The duel OIS works soooo good and I use it with this variable ND filter on the end so I can get nice soft focus in the sun: https://www.amazon.com/Concept-Variable-Neutral-Adjustable-Cleaning/dp/B00JL4INW8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1W4IUG6OVS758&keywords=variable+nd+filter+67mm&qid=1550705847&s=gateway&sprefix=variable+nd+filter+67%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-3

Visible light is brighter than infrared to your mobile phone camera but you can buy a filter to see just infrared

Here is the original source with some extra info

DSLRs have inbuilt filters that remove parts of the spectrum that you can't normally see (infrared, UV light etc.).

That said, some of the light still gets through to the sensor, just vastly reduced in brightness.

So all you need to do is block all light except for the infrared light and you'll be able to take infrared pictures; which is where an infrared filter comes into play.

Note that you'll want to do some searching, as some cameras are more sensitive to infrared than others. But it's likely you'll be looking at like 30 second exposures in the middle of the day.

Polarizing filters are pretty cheap! This one's $20 right now (List price $80). They're even cheaper if not circular - you want a circular one if you want to be able to achieve the effect from any given angle, though.

e: word

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B00JL4INW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_00HFDb3E3WV49

This is the one I used but the light there was also dark enough to not use it. I don’t know if I really like the filter yet, I think I’d prefer a fixed non variable one

For videos, I almost exclusively use ND32 to get the shutter speed to 60. Here is the set I got for my P4A. I'm very happy with it. The PL are polarized filters. They rotate to cancel out light from various directions. Being on a drone limits their functionality because you cannot adjust them mid flight, but they work good if you're primarily shooting from one angle.

For pictures during the day, I use the ND8 or ND16. I have not played around with the PL version yet, I have only had my drone for 2 months.

This is a small album I did of the sunset at Silver Beach in St. Joseph Michigan. This was one of my very first shoots. I did not use any filters and the quality is not amazing because I took these while recording video. The last one is a composite I did in photoshop to make the foreground brighter.

Https://imgur.com/a/Tz3M1 This pic was taken with an ND16 filter and taken right off my sd card, no post work at all.

Just a few more to add to the list:

18% grey card

Neewer TT560 flash

Neewer 43-inch 5-in-1 reflector

Tiffen Circular polarizer

7 ft. light stand

47" Speedlight Umbrella Softbox

Continuous lighting kit

New camera bag


[EDIT] Added more things to the list, as I think of things I'll continue to expand it.

This one. Thanks!

I use lens filters for my digital camera, I would look into seeing what you can use on a drone.

EDIT: Here is a video to explain it for drones. Just buy some off Amazon and test it out.

https://youtu.be/1-D9DkFV0JI

Cheapest Amazon filters I found:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYL8RW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p51SCbECAXC6Q

I saw the 6 pack on Amazon for $80 for a bit while they were out of stock. As soon as they were back in stock the price jumped up to $150 (which is what it's listed for on the PolarPro website).

Is this the set you're referring to? If so, where did you pick it up?

https://www.amazon.com/Polar-Pro-Filters-Filters-Cinema-6-Pack/dp/B01MQUMIQ4/ref=s9_wsim_gw_g421_i1_r?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=FPWPD3Q8ZJ8CTPS9CYNR&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=a6aaf593-1ba4-4f4e-bdcc-0febe090b8ed&pf_rd_i=desktop

I dont know if they make ones for mavic pro, but I got the neewer six filter set off amazon for the p4p and they worked just fine and were 46 instead of 190.

Couldn't agree more… I love pretty much any lens I put on my GH4, especially in 4K mode.

I have a Tiffin 8 stop variable and I love it!

I still wouldn't mind getting my hands on an A7s for its lowlight, but I wouldn't trade my GH4 for anything!

The Polar Pro filters are the ones I've heard people talk about most, and for some reason they're currently way cheaper on Amazon than their own website. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQUMIQ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Here's the one I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/Hoya-58mm-R-72-Infrared-Filter/dp/B0000AI1HP/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497204649&sr=8-3&keywords=hoya+r72+infrared+filter

https://www.amazon.com/Concept-Variable-Neutral-Adjustable-Cleaning/dp/B00JL4INW8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=67mm+nd+filter+variable&qid=1568628673&sprefix=67mm+nd+&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzU00xWEcxVDZaTjBEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODY5MDkzMjVKM1QxNFUxUjlNRiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjA5MzQ1MU9OVTRCWkhHNzRGTyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

then you pop one of these badboys on there to filter out the visible light spectrum
http://www.amazon.com/Hoya-58mm-RM-72-Infrared-Filter/dp/B0000AI1HP

and you get this
http://www.smashingmagazine.com/images/infrared-photography/fish.jpg

Is this it?
http://www.amazon.com/Hoya-58mm-RM-72-Infrared-Filter/dp/B0000AI1HP

Nope, I think it's a circular polarizing filter (like this).

The photographer likely also had a polarizer on - hence making it black.

https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-d3300-black-digital-camera-body-24-2-m-p.html - D3300 - $238

https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-nikkor-18-mm-55-mm-f-3-5-5-6-zoom-lens-for-nikon-f.html - 18-55 $76

https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-55-200mm-f-4-5-6-g-ed-if-dx-af-s-vr-autofocus-lens-for-aps-c-sensor-dslrs-52-nikon-55-200mm-f-4-5-6-g-ed-if-dx-af-s-vr-autofocus-lens-for-aps-c-sensor-dslrs-52.html - 55-200 $53

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J5RHBQ4 - Memory card - $19.48

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Circular-Polarizer-Lens-52/dp/B00XNMXNV0 - CPL - Fits both lenses
$9.64

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Sling-Backpack-SLR-Cameras/dp/B005VTIMEQ - Sling bag - 22.08 (Or you could get a backpack style bag, or an insert to go into a backpack she already has)

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Alluminum-Camera-Camcorder-17-6lbs/dp/B00WWNFRD8 - Tripod $52.94

So for $471.14 your can get a camera, 2 lenses, bag, memory card and tripod all for her.

>expensive ND-filter


ehhhh, they're not so bad. I have one of these which when stopped to F18 or so lets me get 20-25 second exposures in broad daylight.

Essentially it's a neutral density filter, these come in a variety of different styles, they have graduated neutral density filters that are essentially a gradient from light to dark, or some that are a hard stop and simply half (or 1/3) darker and the rest is clear.

They are designed for exactly this purpose, it enables a photographer to expose every portion of a scene in a single image without having to composite multiple images in post.

---
Here is one such kit.

And here is another.

Wrong product (https://www.amazon.com/Polar-Pro-Filters-Filters-Cinema-6-Pack/dp/B01MQUMIQ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483992368&sr=8-1&keywords=polar+pro+mavic) is what OP has.