(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best camera & photo lighting

One of the cool things about lighting is that you can create light with a variety of different things, so you can really play to your budget really well. As others have recommended, if she's serious about learning to light, tell her to check out Strobist, read his tutorials, buy his DVDs, the like. She'll learn a ton and David Hobby is a great writer. His blog is awesome, too.

As for a basic setup, she'll need some sort of light source, a diffuser (or light modifier or some sort), and some way of triggering that light if it's a strobe. That's the very basic setup. Fortunately for her, she can do this for $10, $20, $50, $100, or $1000. Whatever she (you) are willing to spend on it.

If she's trying to do it on the cheap, she can grab a lamp from Ikea (match the type of the bulb with the type of lighting the food will be in. If she's in a kitchen with flurorescent lighting, get a fluroescent lamp), a work light in a clamp, etc, some paper (try tracing paper or wax paper as it's more translucent), and some tape. Stretch the paper out so that it covers a nice area, tape it up to some boxes or something so it stands, and shine the light through it so it's nice and evenly lit. The only thing that affects the "softness" of light is the size of the light source, so the paper is useful for spreading out the focus of the bulb in your lamp and giving you a nice big source. Be creative, move the lamps around, try layering on the paper or removing the paper. Just play with it and see what works. She'll probably need a tripod and a slower shutter speed though, since these lights aren't incredibly bright. Here's another idea using the same equipment for inspiration.

Moving up in the budget, she can start to explore the world of flash photography, and start playing with strobes. These cheap YongNuo Flashes (and there are other models that are great, too) are surprisingly good, reliable, and cheap! I own a few and use them all the time. They come with stands, but she could tape them up around for better angles. Just one of these off camera, or angled properly can make her photoghraphy stunning. Start by placing them off to the side, aimed at the food, and triggering them with the on-camera flash and the strobes set to "optical slave" mode. Tell her to turn down the on-camera flash power to very low as to not give the food a bland look, and just use it to trigger the off-camera flash. Exposure here gets a little more tricky, without going on a huge rant (I could if you want, just let me know), but she should be able to figure it out. Start on low power, and dial it in more and more until she gets the look she's going for. Then, start experimenting and playing more! Use that same paper as before for a quick and dirty diffuser, or, if you want even bigger, softer, light for free, crank the power and shoot it onto the ceiling. The reflection will give her a great, even light source that compliments nearly everything nicely. Play with the built-in diffuser too, bouncing off different things, etc. Shoot, see what works, have fun, and learn. There's a lot to learn, and she'll learn best by just throwing things at the wall and seeing what sticks. Just make sure she's having fun and not stressing too much! If she needs more help, just throw me a question, google around, or post to this forum. Someone will be able to help.

From there, she can keep expanding upwards. More flashes, umbrellas, light stands (make sure she has all the necessary hot-shoe adapters, or umbrella mounts she might need), snoots, grid spots, and other sort of modifiers she might want to get the look she's going for. Worth noting that most things here can be made with some creativity and some crafty DIY work.

Oh, I'd also urge she get a set (or two) of gels for her lights, mainly the CTO (colour temperature orange) and CTG (colour temperature blue) so she can match the colour of her lights to whatever the ambient light is.

Hopefully this helps. If you have any questions or need more help, just let me know. :)

> would like to go with Yongnuo for the triggers (YN622) and flashes themselves (probably 1 565EX and 1 560).

Good choices. But, you could get a 568EX which supports High-Speed Sync. This would allow you to use flash more effectively outdoors during the day. Otherwise you are limited to the normal sync speed of your camera.

The YN-622 support HSS so you're good there -- if you get a 568EX.

> I have no idea what to go with for the stands (Maybe Manfrotto Nano or Lumopro Compact?)

Both of those lightstands are great. I've actually found generic ones that I'm somewhat happy with: http://www.amazon.com/Ravelli-ALS-Cushioned-Included-Equipment/dp/B003TM600U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1410198056&sr=1-1&keywords=ravelli+heavy+duty+light+stand

> swivels

What's important with an adapter is that it's full-metal -- none of this plastic housing or cold-shoe bullshit. I have these and they're fine: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EGE39A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> umbrellas

Are you sure you want to go with umbrellas? A softbox may be better for on-location work, especially without an assistant (outdoors, with an umbrella and no assistant, if it's windy, you're pretty much screwed). You may want to get one umbrella and one softbox, that way you can switch them between key and fill in two light setups, and pick whichever one is more appropriate for one light setups.

If you do want to go with umbrellas, size is the primary consideration. ~45" is probably a happy medium for on-location. I have had some ~30" umbrellas and found the light quality to be not so great. And I have a ~60" that I love, but rarely take on location unless I know I will have a lot of room indoors (60" umbrella is a big fail outdoors, even in low wind) and not have to move around a lot.

Another thing is the ribs -- aluminum ribbed umbrellas may wear out quicker. However, I don't think that umbrellas are a "buy it for life" thing at all and I've never been concerned about build quality in my umbrellas.

I use and recommend Impact convertible umbrellas.

If you want a softbox, I can recommend Westscott Apollo 28" as a good on-location softbox for hot shoe flash.

> I'm also not sure what modifiers to pick up for using an on-camera flash, like a softbox (LumiQuest Softbox or Lastolite Ezybox?), the Gary Fong Lightsphere that everyone has, or something else (LumiQuest Quik Bounce?).

Modifiers for on-camera flash don't actually do much. A bounce card of some kind is nice to offer catchlights when the light is bounced but that's about it. Save the money that you would have spent on on-camera modifiers and buy Neil Van Nierk's books and some beer instead.

> I will put some good rechargeable batteries (Eneloops?) into my budget

Good.

> is there anything else that I'm missing?

Since I do a lot of run-and-gun type work at festivals and conventions (often conventions have very high ceilings and bouncing the flash is difficult) as well, one thing that is very helpful to me is my painter's pole and a Kacey Pole Adapter ( http://www.amazon.com/Kacey-Enterprises-Pole-Adapter-Extension/dp/B00ANZVFME/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1410198878&sr=1-1&keywords=kacey+pole+adapter ).

Check out Syl Arena's blog here: http://pixsylated.com/blog/longarm-and-metalhead/

While it's ideal to have an assistant, I often use the pole solo. By simply holding the painters pole as if it were a walking stick (maybe you could say a wizard's staff at the con), with the end on the ground, in one hand and shooting with the camera in the other hand. In order to shoot like this, you will generally want to use a shorter focal length to get directionality and softness in the light. I try to shoot 5 feet away from the subject with this setup. The smaller shoot-through umbrellas are great here because placement is less precise. But you could use the 28" softbox as well.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i3-8100 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor | £91.14 @ Aria PC
Motherboard | MSI - B360M PRO-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | £66.99 @ Ebuyer
Memory | ADATA - XPG GAMMIX D10 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | £84.50 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £23.99 @ Aria PC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | £143.99 @ Aria PC
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | £41.99 @ AWD-IT
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM (2015) 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | £47.99 @ Amazon UK
Case Fan | Cooler Master - SickleFlow (Red) 69.7 CFM 120mm Fan | £9.33 @ CCL Computers
Case Fan | Cooler Master - SickleFlow (Red) 69.7 CFM 120mm Fan | £9.33 @ CCL Computers
Monitor | Hannspree - HE225DPB 21.5" 1920x1080 Monitor | £75.41 @ More Computers
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £594.66
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-05-15 01:20 BST+0100 |

CPU: Intel i3 budget processors are getting better and better, 4 cores is plenty for gaming, and the 3.6 GHZ clock speed, although it doesn’t turbo, is still pretty good!

Mobo: Intels mid range chipset, and this one has 4 RAM slots so you could put in another 2x4 kit for a total of 16gb if you need in the future, but 8gb will be plenty for now as long as this is mostly for gaming and not a lot of programming/editing.

RAM: DDR4 RAM at the highest clock speed supported by the mobo, 2666mhz. Like I mentioned above, this could be upgraded to 16gb in the future.

GPU: 1050 ti is perfect for running games at high settings, some easier games at epic, some more difficult at a combo of medium and high, at a steady 60fps at 1080p.

Case: Good case which gets good reviews and is easy to customize as the 2 main front fans are easily visible, and it has a window and good airflow.

PSU: Solid PSU, and 450w will be plenty for this build.

Fans: 2 basic red LED fans, but feel free to get any color that you want, I just think black/red looks cool but it’s really up to you. Also, if you’re want to illuminate the inside of the case, go ahead and get an cheap but solid RGB lighting strip kit like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00N2QYP50/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526344133&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=DeepCool+RGB350&dpPl=1&dpID=41cLs0QtRGL&ref=plSrch. Also, unrelated, but if you need help finding how the pc will perform on your favorite games just ask and I can help you figure it out.

Hope this helps!

Hey! Always great to see more new MTG youtubers. The game can always use more. First, a few questions, what program do you use to edit? What do you use to record your audio and video? What kind of computer do you have?

Ok, a few tips I’ve learned is if you’re gonna be mainly talking to the camera you gotta have great audio and it needs to be recorded separately from your cameras mic. I would suggest this lab mic as a starter. It’s cheapest and can record right to a smart phone.

BOYA BY-M1 Omnidirectional Lavalier Microphone for Canon Nikon Sony DSLR Camcorder Audio Recorders iPhone 6 5S 5 4S 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NHN168W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jdKYBb701AGWS

Lighting helps make videos look so much better and less washed out. I couple of light behind the camera pointed at you never hurts. I’ve had these for 3 years and they still work great.

LimoStudio 700W Photography Softbox Light Lighting Kit Photo Equipment Soft Studio Light Softbox 24"X24", AGG814 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4YS2XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3eKYBbM38FJ0N

I don’t personalky have these but my friend does they they seem to work for her and are cheaper
Fancierstudio lighting Kit (DK2) Umbrella Lighting Kit, Professional Lighting for Studio Photography, Portrait Lighting, continuous lighting kit and Video Lighting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TSCARK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fgKYBb2GV6BFZ

If you have some sort of social media presence (twitter, Facebook, tumblr), mention it at the end of the videos. It’s a good way to get your videos out there and seen more.

An intro and outro title sequence are always nice. They’re not necessary but add a little something to make the videos feel more professional. Plus, you just have to make them once and can tack them to every video.

Make thumbnails for your videos. Use something like Fotor to just add text of the title of your video to a screenshot of the video. Most people watch YouTube on their phone and just see the thumbnails. So it’s good to have informative ones.

Lastly, don’t be afraid to edit your videos. It might feel jumpy and choppy but most people are use to it. Or be like me and do many takes till you get it close enough. I usually do one take to get it all out and find my flow then try again. I find scripts work for some people but a lot of the times come off stilted. An outline of points to hit might be a happy medium.

Anyway, if you have any questions you want to ask me go ahead. I’m not a seasoned pro or anything but I’d love to help.

I'd recommend an LED over a fluorescent ring light, if you can find one for a similar price.

I just bought this Neewer LED a couple weeks ago (this is the same, I think, the pink one was just cheaper at the time).

I also own (and have previously used) this fluorescent one from Interfit.

I'm still working out my video setup with the LED light (no examples posted yet) but so far I'm much happier with it. I always set a custom white balance on my camera with a grey card but with the fluorescent light the WB always seems to fluctuate in videos and in photos I'd still have to do color correction if I used a shutter speed shorter than 1/60 (annoying because I don't like to use a tripod for photos). The LED is much more true to color & doesn't seem to fluctuate in video.

Both of the lights have about the same size outer ring, but the Neewer (which is just one ring with the center empty) seems to give more flattering lighting angles. I also like it because I can actually use the flip-up screen on my camera.

How bright a light to get depends on a lot of things - what lens aperture you're using, distance from the light to you, distance from you to your background, etc. I actually dim my light to about halfway for videos because I sit about 2 feet away from it, and if I turn it all the way up with my camera settings set to the correct exposure for me, my background (another couple feet behind me) is super dark. tl;dr - get something bright but make sure it's dimmable so you can play around to get the best lighting.

I'm guessing filming on a webcam. C920 by Logitech or something in that vein?

Around the 36 second mark your voice doesn't sync up with your lips for a few seconds when you turn to Mime Jr.

Yikes, 1:18 the audio clip! My ears. Maybe it's just me but the clipping audio jokes are never funny. I have crazy sensitive ears.

So, we finally get into the meat of the video by 1:18 of a 14:08 video. I'm a big, big proponent of having your introduction tight. This is where your audience will decide to keep watching or immediately click away, leaving your audience retention rate plummeting. You don't have enough views for an adequate sample size, but I can say that personally I'd have clicked away.

I don't have as much time to spare nowadays to be patient on content. The quicker, the punchier, the video, the more it will keep me watching. I want the meat of the video, NOW, not later. Not a bad segment introduction for Triple Play either, very retro and it fits the concept well.

We're getting a ton of light refraction off your glasses, as well as some direct cast shadows behind you on your shelf. You can definitely tell where the light is coming from. If I might make a recommendation, if you're going with this setup you need to get some diffusers and some cross lighting to your sides to filter out those shadows and prevent that kind of direct refraction on your glasses, if you choose to wear them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018KE5XUO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the set I use. It's cheap and effective for my purposes, which is mainly light up my shots. I don't wear glasses during my live action shots though. I don't have enough lights to diffuse to the sides (removing my cast shadows) or the front enough to light up my face. I have one single light up front, which still gives me a glare. If you don't understand this concept let me know. I'm in my office right now and can record a brief video giving a mild tutorial on how my lights are setup and how they impact my live action shot.

There's a big imbalance in your live shot audio and your narration audio when you break into the video. Your narration is actually really pleasant, the live action shot wasn't. The equipment you have at your disposal needs to strengthen your presentation and you need to work with that in mind. Your strength is going to come in your presentation on the non-live action parts, so break into this quicker.

If you want to do live action shots, you're going to need the lighting and some work on how to frame your shots. While I appreciate that you've setup in front of a bunch of games/game consoles and a shelf full of pretty stuff to look at, the live action shot (ignoring the points I referenced above) aren't very nice to look at. We have a frame that's split in half; a top blue wall with nothing up top and a lot of dead space, and the bottom half that's filled to the brim with tons of colors. Your frame also looks slightly askew too.

As I'm watching the video your narration is still out of sync with your live action shots of your voice. Again, I want to click away. I really, really want to click away. These live action shots aren't good, man, I'm sorry. I want you back to the in game narration ASAP.

This is where I just couldn't keep it together anymore. I clicked away. The screaming, audio clipping and the joke setup about motion controls just wasn't funny. Some younger views might get a kick out of it, but I'm definitely not the person who would enjoy this.

Overall there's some good stuff here to build on, but a lot of bad stuff detracting from it. Sorry for taking so long to respond to you, I fell asleep.

You're biggest problem will not be the microphone, but what you're recording your audio onto. I found out really quick that the audio recording of a DSLR, regardless of microphone, is terrible in quality and with plenty of static noise. I use a Tascam DR-05 to record audio, in combination with either a RODE VideoMic or a lavalier (there are some really cheap ones that do an ok job for low budget productions). The Tascam DR-05 also has a pretty good mic built in , so you could probably start with just that. Remember to record the audio with your Tascam (or recorder) AND with your camera, so that you can easily sync them in post. Always remember to record a minute of silence in the room BEFORE filming so that you can have a room tone (or world tone, if outdoors) sample that can be for adding a more natural ambient sound for portions you may silence in the video.

I would also recommend you pick up:

a three point lighting kit for indoor shooting (like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-Lighting-Hairlight-Softbox-9004SB2/dp/B0047FHOWG/ref=sr_1_4?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1450430338&sr=1-4&keywords=three+point+lighting+kit),

a variable ND filter for outdoor shooting (like this one: http://www.amazon.com/58mm-Variable-NDX-Fader-Filter/dp/B00QVOQWM4/ref=sr_1_7?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1450430377&sr=1-7&keywords=variable+ND+filter)

a reflector, for bouncing off light outdoors... (like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1450430475&sr=1-1&keywords=reflector)

Extra batteries of course.

You'll find these tools useful for getting higher quality audio and picture, there are lots and lots of tutorials on YouTube that will help you learn very quickly how to use your equipment. On a final note, I don't think the Rebel SL1 was a good choice of camera. If I had to pick a Rebel camera for video, and was limited in buget, I would have gone for a Rebel T4i or T5i, in combination with magic lantern. Another important thing to remember, is make sure your SD is AT LEAST class 10 (I recommend Sandisk Extreme pro 95/mbps 32 or 64gb), and NEVER use a mini sd card with an adapter (I've had bad experiences with this).

Best of luck to you, and happy filming!

There is hardware out there, but unless you're doing 100% color accurate work like photoshop, I wouldn't spend the money on it. Something like this

This review is for a different size monitor in the same family, but it gave some calibration data that they used for their review. May be a good starting point at least. You should be able to do 99% of it within the monitor's settings and don't need other software. That IPS should definitely look better than the TN panel.

> Here's what you do. First, turn off Super Energy Saving mode and set Picture Mode to 'Custom'. Then set the brightness to 43 (150 cd/m²) and the colour temperature to User mode with red at 48, green at 58 and blue at 58. That will give you a temperature of 6400 K, an average gamma of 2.2 and a dE of 3.6. The picture will look more natural, although whites will look slightly blown out due to the dip at the end of the gamma correction curve. The contrast will fall slightly to 1280:1, but that's still more than enough. With these settings, any in-the-know amateur should be happy with the picture quality.

Hey, glad you're using the info off this subreddit. I'm not just wasting words! :D

As for my thoughts on camera and green screen, IncredibleMacho is right that lighting really is the most important thing. Until I got my lighting kind of figured out, my c920 looked pretty bad. My HP-4110 cam was looking better by default, but I think with good lighting the C920 is a little bit better (but probably not noticeable on stream).

once I swapped the 4 lights in my ceiling fan with these Phillips Daylight LED Dimmable lightbulbs then the color and brightness in my room was finally getting up there. But that alone isn't enough. That helps with ambient light, but I still need a light over my monitors pointing right at me to really fill in.

For that setup, I'm using this:

• That same Phillips lightbulb
  
• Swing Arm Lamp
  
• CowboyStudio 9-Inch Portable Quick Setup Speedlite Softbox
  
• Lutron Credenza Lamp Dimmer
  
  The lamp arm attaches to the desk just like the mic arm does. The dimmer switch isn't exactly required, but it does mean that I can adjust the brightness of that light that is on me and puts the switch on my desk. Otherwise, I'd have to reach around the back to get to the lamp switch.
  
  The green screen I'm using is this 6ft x 9ft Chromakey Green Backdrop. The stands are nice and tall, but it isn't very wide. I cropped the camera shot in OBS down (hold ALT + drag the edges of the camera) so that my screen area just fits in it, and that is just barely larger than I am. Part of that size is because it is a couple feet behind me and angles out to pickup light from that ceiling fan in the middle of the room.
  
  But as some people have said, you really could create your own custom one for cheaper. The fabric on this thing is just basic green dyed cloth. You'd do just as well with any cheap colored cloth (doesn't have to be green, just needs to be a color you won't wear) from any fabric store (some walmarts sell fabric). How you hang it is up to you. For convenience though, this kit for $63 right now on Amazon isn't bad.
  
  Good luck with your setup! Just know that it won't work like magic when you get your items, so don't get upset if you set it up and it doesn't immediately look perfect. It almost certainly won't and will still require tweaking things for a while. I'm comfortable enough now with mine that I don't even really think about it now when I start streaming. But when I first got it, I had to adjust lighting and camera settings for a bit every day.

I have a c920 and I am not disappointed. I subscribe to the belief that your camera is only as good as your lighting. Shit lighting will make a great camera look like shit and great lighting will make a shit camera look great.

I bought that exact screen from Amazon [link], but in retrospect I should've just gone to a fabric store and gotten a green sheet, because that's all it is. It is not special in any way. It is super thin though, so I just double mine up on a custom frame made with PVC pipe (cost of tools and materials was around $20). The good thing about the PVC is that you can measure your space and build a custom frame that fits your needs.

I found some awesome clamp light fixtures at Wal-Mart [example]. In my case I clamped them to my desk and a nearby window sill, pointed at approximately 45 degrees toward me and the screen behind me. The positioning is important in that you need your screen evenly lit and you need to not cast much of a shadow onto it. Luckily I have the space to put the screen far enough behind me and eliminate most shadow problems.

The bulbs I got are bright as hell though, so I've got [these] soft boxes on the way. These are not so much for the lighting itself (although I don't think it'll hurt) but for my own comfort. After only a few minutes of having those lights in my peripheral vision it got uncomfortable.

I also have a light almost directly above me, which rounds out my setup so far. Key light, fill light, and hair light. A Google search on studio and green screen lighting would benefit you. Good luck!

I feel bad because the things were more expensive than I remember.

Here is the green screen $17.99

and here is the stand $34.99

The green screen requires some kind of stand. Its kind of a massive screen, but I was able to fold it around to fit the size I need and I use it for photography as well. For the stand I didn't even fold the legs out. I just propped them against the wall and used a little sticky tack. If you have more time than money you could get some pvc pipe and make a similar stand for probably less, but I liked this one because it is pretty nice and it is adjustable.

The lamp you linked is not it exactly, but seems like the updated version of what I have. The most important thing is just having the right amount of lumens for the distance away from you. There are conversion charts for when they only give the wattage of the lamp. The lamps I have don't have any temperature control, but I think you can do that on the OBS side. They are just natural white as far as I can tell.

If you're not going to be doing an equipment take down every day then I would go with something like what I have, but if you have to do clean up then a collapsable screen might be worth the extra money.

For backdrops, you have several choices. The cheapest is a hanging basic cloth background. The downside to these is they wrinkle easy. So then the next step many people go with is Seamless paper. It is my preferred home studio setup, if I am going to be taking a lot of pictures with the same backdrop, I can use one roll of seamless and call it a day. However you have the added part of you are going to be setting it up and tearing it down each time, so my personal recommendation for a backdrop is a pop up backdrop. These are great for headshots or even 3/4 body shots, you can't do full body, but for makeup you don't need full body. The great thing about pop up backdrops is you are able to fold them up and use a single light stand to hold it up. Setup is less than a minute, compared to the several minutes setting up a real backdrop holder.

https://www.amazon.com/Fovitec-StudioPRO-Double-Sided-Collapsible-Background/dp/B00FJ1JX3A is the one I have, and I love it. I use it at corporate events where they want a photo booth type situation, with easy setup and tear down.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WGNSTE as my backdrop stand, plenty sturdy for this useage

and

https://www.amazon.com/Limostudio-Photography-Studio-Reflector-AGG1411/dp/B00M3I6A8S to hold up the backdrop on the stand.

If you don't like the grey there are several other color combos, and even green screen combos from the same vendor of backdrops. So unless you need full body shots, I would really consider this instead of a standard backdrop and backdrop stand system.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Lightweight-Portable-Monopod-Capacity/dp/B00NSEKEMO/ right now is my tripod of choice. For the price its hard to beat.

As far as lights, for makeup I would want nice soft light, so for me that is octoboxes for your key light. https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Octagonal-Speedlite-Speedlight-Photography/dp/B00PIM3I7W/ is a nice one if you are going to go with strobes/monolights, or if you are going to go with a speedlight setup, https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Octagonal-Speedlight-Photography/dp/B00PIM3I6I/

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Rotatable-Aluminum-Adjustable-Photography/dp/B01CHQ8Z7Y is highly reccomended for the octobox so you can get the perfect angles.

I recommend this ring light. I also do my makeup in natural lighting, in-front of my bay window in my bedroom, (weather and time permitting), but on super cloudy days or during winter hours, sometimes it isn't possible, like you said, and I use this ring light to substitute for the lack of natural light. I have 2 of the warm light shields and 2 of the white ones (white on top and bottom, warm on the sides), and use the adjustable lighting feature to substitute for natural light, and find it very effective. It doesn't get super hot, and it can light VERY low (i use this for cloudy days) to insanely bright (never have used it on it's brightest setting) based on your preferences, it's on a dial , not levels, so you can be pretty specific with it. It doesn't come with a stand, so keep that in mind, but I already had one I could use, so it didn't matter for me.

Wow. That's unbelievable that you felt it first hand. So sorry you had to.

This Table Top Photo Studio is of highest priority because I need to take some professional shots of some crafts I've been making so I can put them up on my Storenvy!

Next would have to be Meowth! Because he's super cute, and a lil' bastard! haha!

After Meowth would come either this Brachiosaurus or this Spinosaurus! I've been collecting these Papo brand dinosaurs and they're just amazingly detailed and well-crafted. Either of these two guys would be a great addition to my dino group!

"sort my priorities"

Thanks so much for the contest!

I'm still organizing it, but my "kit" includes:

• DSLR Camera, prime lenses, camera bag
  
  
• Wooden yard stick (Scale bar and setting depth of field)
  
  
• IR remote control for camera (more steady camera triggering)
  
  
• Tripod on casters for faster shot setups
  
  
• Athlete's foot spray ($1 each at the dollar store)
  
  
• Developer's spray / Dulling spray
  
  
• temporary/removable rubberized paint (basecoat before spraying perm. paint) example
  
  
• Multi-colored textured spray paint Example
  
  
• Powder duster for applying inexpensive dust to objects. I haven't perfected this process. It's messy and the powder can change appearance between camera shots and spoil your entire photoshoot. I'd still like to figure out a better way because flour, baking soda, baby powder, and other dusty substances are far cheaper than spraypaint and athlete's foot spray.
  
  
• retractable kabuki brush for applying powder. I'm still experimenting with this, but it's a standard item included with the NextEngine 3D Scanner and they recommend applying talc powder to a lanolin base.
  
  
• Smart phone with lightmeter app, depth-of-field calculator app
  
  
• "Muslin" quick-clamps to drape a bedsheet behind object to diffuse lighting
  
  
• log book for optimal camera settings (dry erase board is faster for me)
  
  
• dry erase board for snapping a pic of my settings
  
  
• stickers for registration marks. I have only tried ordinary circular stickers without the computer generated encoded targets and have so far been disappointed with the results.
  
  There's probably more, but that's all I can think of for now.
  
  FUTURE ITEMS:
  
  
• $10 Lazy susan turntable from Ikea
  
  
• CNC controlled camera gantry for automated image capturing
  
  
• Field monitor for easier camera focusing. It's much harder on the small camera display.
  
  
• WiFi enabled camera or a WiFi enabled SD memory card
  
  
• A light tent - preferably with an entire setup with variable LED lighting from reddit user /u/Iontrades_
  
  https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/iontrades/lite-studio-all-in-one-photo-studio-and-3d-scanner
  
  
• Green screen backdrop for experimenting with the automask feature in 3DF Zephyr software. I may also experiment with other backdrop colors, threadcounts, and thicknesses to optimize contrast (between the workpiece and backdrop) and optimize lighting.
  
  
• Experimental mixture of white baby powder, black pepper, and acetone to make it stick together. I haven't tried this yet, but I'm hoping that the acetone would help it stick to the workpiece and quickly evaporate.

Hey SHG, I took a look at a couple of your videos and I think there are a combination of factors at play (cam quality and lighting).

Your cam is doing the best it can, but honestly you are not going to get a lot of performance out of a $20-30 webcam. You'll need to really give it a lot of light to avoid the fuzz that is bothering you, and even then... you'll probably still get more than you are happy with (because the actual sensor that is collecting the light is pretty small). I think the room lighting it is being provided is not sufficient (it can be just fine for us with our premium, high quality light collecting eyeballs, but it's not enough for most webcams).

Although I can't guarantee more light will do the trick, I think it is likely to help. Something like this maybe: https://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-DK2-Umbrella-Professional-Photography/dp/B004TSCARK/

I suspect a webcam with better low light performance, plus a little bit of directional studio lighting, would help. Just a somewhat educated guess though.

Thanks so much!

Someone else recommended these. Do you think they would work well? I like the fact that there are three, but will they look as good?

Also, someone recommended F&V Ring Lights. I love the fact that I can use batteries, but I can't find many reviews on them to see what they would look like.

I'm coming at this from a design / video background. Other people here have addressed the actual content well enough.

You need better production value. I'm now saying you need MKBHD level of stuff, but if you're serious about doing a series, getting real followes, etc, you need to up the production game. This is just about the bare quality minimum you can go to get a real audience. This is a realistic goal. There's nothing he does that can't be done by one person with a tripod.

Get out of your bathrobe, get a tripod and a cheap softbox or two, a better camera (lighting might be all you need here), and try to simplify. Really watch that video I linked. He only has two or three locked down camera shots in the whole thing. It's not a crazy fancy multicam + slider setup.

Your audio quality itself is pretty good, but I'd personally reduce the humor a bit. I get what you're going for, but if I feel the itch to skip forward throughout your video, it's too much. Literally, a 3s logo intro + a 10-20s intro, then get into it. People are SO willing to just pop into another video if yours isn't getting to what they want.

EDIT: You desperately need to learn about SEO. Do some googling (ironically.) The title "Eggses" is absolutely useless. I get the joke, but think for a sec: What does your audience search when they're looking for what the video shows? "How to cook eggs," maybe "How to fry eggs," etc. YES, you will have more competition in that title, but competing over the actual audience is better than having 100% of no organic activity.

1. I own Arri lights and looking to pick up a pair of Dedos in the future, but this kit from amazon is what I have shot the majority of my interviews on. It's cheap, but it get's the job done for an affordable price. Since the bulbs that come with it are daylight, they're also great to use if you want to also use nat light. You'll have some extra money to pick up a bag and maybe something for the bulbs (I have a pelican case but getting a softcase and keeping the boxes for each bulb will save you the money) They're flouresent so they don't get hot and uncomfortable for the talent, softboxes come with them so you retain a soft look, and they're relativity light for travel.
   
   
2. So are you going to be interviewing the couple on their wedding day? Have you done it before? Why not just place them next to a window? It'll be much faster and save you a lot of time and effort lugging the lights around.

/u/cultofthebackflip - you probably don't need a large sensor, interchangeable lens DSLR-style camera for this.

With an £800 budget, I recommend a 4K camcorder for this job (either the [£698 (on sale) Sony FDR-AX53] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-FDR-AX53-Camcorder-Balanced-SteadyShot/dp/B01B5TEX2K//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) or the [£699 (on sale) Panasonic HC-WXF990EBK] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Panasonic-HC-VXF990EBK-Camcorder-Wireless-Function/dp/B01AAGIKAK//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) (£649 after the [£50 Panasonic rebate] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Up-to-50-cashback-with-selected-Panasonic-Cameras-and-Camcorders/b/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&node=5517495031&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=qpe-title-tag&pf_rd_r=X54KQATD0AD2KX2SKJZ0&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1338735567&pf_rd_i=B01AAGIKAK&linkCode=ll2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21)).

With 4K resolution, you can leave the camera running at a fixed, wide focal length and "crop in" for crystal clear 1080p closeups.

You'll also need something to hold the camera overhead - perhaps this [Manfrotto 2 Section Single Arm with Camera Bracket] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Manfrotto-Single-Section-Camera-Bracket-x/dp/B000OPWSYM//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) mounted on your tripod, as seen [here] (https://youtu.be/XpUsFCVn3BI).

Either of these 4K camcorders would be a lot easier to use than a 1080p DSLR (no lenses to swap out, unlimited recording time and the ability to "crop in" for closeups ).

Hope this is helpful and good luck!

How bright is your monitor? The typical factory default settings are way, way too bright for long term use. I've heard it said that your monitor should ideally be about as bright as a well-lit book page. It will look a little odd at first, but you'll get used to it.

I'm in the process of setting up LED backlighting (bias lighting) on my monitor as well. Apparently it is loads better for your eyes than playing in the dark, or shining a bright overhead light or desk lamp near your screen.

Here's a cheap option for LED backlighting with minimal fuss: http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Halo-LED-Bias-Lighting/dp/B0053B347M

If you want spend for branded quality that is and is rather robust (even though it will be in the office and not traveling with you for diff film sets) go with the aperature branded products

However if you want some good budget lights and can buy some bell and whistle add ons to help with your set up later, go with Neewer 660 LEDs here and their 5 in 1 reflector kit here

Personally I love Neewer as they have a solid product and if you take care of it, as you should for all of your equipment, it will last.

I've used these fairly cheap umbrella lights from amazon, they are a little bit flimsy, but are a great deal for the price, and put out a good amount of bright light. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TSCARK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WcGQybTKT1YVG

I ordered a bundle from Amazon about 3 years ago from LimoStudio. It was about $150 and came with a backdrop stand with three different fabric backdrops, a bunch of clamps, two softboxes with diffusers, two umbrellas, four light stands, four bulbs, and a bag to carry it all in. I don't use it much anymore, but it's still going strong. I know $150 is over your budget, but the same company offers smaller bundles that are well within your budget. I used the two softboxes more than anything else, and for a while, I always carried one of them in my car. They really do produce beautiful light.

​

Link to what I think is the bundle I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-2-6meter-Background-Portfolio-Photography/dp/B00LV46738/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=photography+lighting+kit+limostudio&qid=1554499137&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Honestly, this would be the best thing ever. Since I'm an at-home parent right now, I'm trying to hone my photography skills for stock photos and possibly future etsy ventures to make some money. I'm a graphic designer, and photography skills are highly desired in my field, it'd be nice to have that skill when I go back to work one day. :)

Yes, there's a market for all body types. Many sex workers are pleasantly surprised at the level of demand for their "look". However, you will likely need to hustle more and it may take you a little longer to find your audience if you don't have a classically beautiful body. CamModelMom has tips on getting started as a plus size cam model.

You can get started with just your computer's webcam or a phonecam. People have shot feature films on phone cameras.

The key to getting good video out of a phone camera is to learn to take advantage of natural lighting, and lights you already may have (such as desklamps, worklights, Christmas lights). I recommend reading about how to light / film yourself first, then decide what kind of lighting you need:

• lighting
  
• how to film yourself
  
  If you have some money to spend, I would recommend the following as a basic kit.
  
  Camera, and camera boom. The Logitech C-922x has a built-in microphone.
  
  
• Logitech-C922x webcam - $75.00
  
• Smatree Flexible Webcam Boom - $17.00
  
  Next, upgrade your lighting:
  
  
• Emart 600W lighting kit - $60.00
  
  Finally, upgrade your sound:
  
  
• Blue Yeti microphone - $130.00
  
• Blue Radius II Microphone Shock Mount for Yeti - $50.00
  
• Microphone boom stand - $71.00
  
• Blue Yeti pop filter - $25.00
  
  You can spend hundreds or thousands more for better quality and easier to use equipment, but with the above kit, you should be able to get professional results. Depending on what your niche is, it may be worthwhile to spend money on costumes, tip-activated sex toys, room decorations, BDSM equipment, etc.
  
  
  

This is the one I picked up. - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UOOTCS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Probably more than you need, but I've been thrilled with the value considering I use it for youtube videos, site commercials, and of course, now Twitch.

You could probably just get away with this - http://www.amazon.com/6x9-Chromakey-Backdrop-Background-Fancierstudio/dp/B001PCQTDO/ref=pd_cp_p_3

Make sure you have something to set it up with, either a wall, piece of foamboard, or get a frame like this - http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Adjustable-Background-Backdrop-Support/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_y

If you get the frame, don't neglect the spring clamps - http://www.amazon.com/Cheaplights-PCS-3-75-Spring-Clamps/dp/B0019SHZU0/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_z though I got mine (metal and more robust) from Home Depot.

I work Streamate and have been a full time cam girl/escort for 4 years. Equipment matters! The better your stream, the better your traffic, visibility, and money.

1. Ideally you need a laptop or computer with an i5 or i7 processor
   
   
2. Technically no, you don't NEED a fancy cam. But if you want to make money, you should invest in one. The most popular cam for camgirls right now is the Logitech c920, which runs 60-70$ currently.
   
   
3. Invest in a set of umbrella lights. I use these. They're $40 on amazon:
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TSCARK/ref=psdc_14014911_t1_B005FHZ2SI
   
   
4. The more time you put into cam and treat it as an actual, real job, the more $$ you will make.

I have the 800s, they are pretty damn comfy with the vive. I love them. Had them for about 2 years now. Bought them back when they were $300, $150 now. The vive does come with earbuds, never tried them. But I already had mine before the vive.

I financed the vive from HTC with the 6mo plan. I will pay it off within 3. I could have paid in full, but didn't want that $900 hole in my wallet.

Also, I bought this tripod it made taking my vive from the bedroom to living room much easier. Because I didn't want to have people in my bedroom when I am showing off the vive.

I have yet to buy any other peripherals like skins or lens protectors which I will. Only had my vive for 2 months. I have family members who sweat excessively, vive covers are a good idea.

I'm in the midwest so I know how this is; I'm at work during the best natural light hours and in the winter it's just gray all the time and it gets dark so early.

It's a little bit of an investment, but I bought this light to take photos with (you can look around at other lights, this one had the best price as far as I could find at the time). It's collapses so you can store it under your bed or in a closet so it's apartment friendly.

Unanswered (again) question from a previous megathread

Author /u/Tinderlickinggood - (Permalink)

Hi everyone. Photography noob here though I understand basic manual settings. I built a diy photobooth and will be using it at my cousin's wedding very soon. It is an open air type booth with a canon t3i in it and is self automated. The wedding will be outside from 4pm to late hours. What are the best settings for it so that I can set and forget? Assuming we have full outdoor lighting, and sun setting at 7:30, what shooting mode would be best? It will have continuous lighting seen here VILTROX L132T 0.78"/2cm Ultra... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYGDGUQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

TIA

Hi everyone. Photography noob here though I understand basic manual settings. I built a diy photobooth and will be using it at my cousin's wedding very soon. It is an open air type booth with a canon t3i in it and is self automated. The wedding will be outside from 4pm to late hours. What are the best settings for it so that I can set and forget? Assuming we have full outdoor lighting, and sun setting at 7:30, what shooting mode would be best? It will have continuous lighting seen here VILTROX L132T 0.78"/2cm Ultra... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYGDGUQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

TIA

I got this one for Christmas. Sorry if that's a mobile link. I'm on my phone.

I had plans to make my own. My friend knew that and treated me to one of my own. It came with instructions on how to use it but they are pretty straight forward anyways. So far I'm really liking it!

I'm glad you're learning through my experimentation haha. I bought this kit for 33 shipped,

https://www.amazon.com/Photography-Continuous-MOUNTDOG-Professional-Equipment/dp/B07G3423NQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541789325&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=light+softbox&psc=1. It works really well.

Yeah the picture you linked was one of my first with multiple light sources. Definitely come a long way since then in a short time.

Are you interested in a DSLR/interchangeable lens type of camera, or a straightforward video camcorder? Based on what you're looking to film (interviews plus footage of art being created over a period of time), I think a DSLR camera could work for you. It would be capable of getting quality video footage, and if you want to take photo timelapses of the art pieces being created that would be easy to do as well.

So based on that and your $2000 budget, here's what I'd recommend.

Panasonic G85 w/kit lens ($800)

Rode Wireless DSLR Audio System ($330)

Manfrotto Video Tripod ($360)

Neewer 660 LED 2-Light Kit with stands ($160)

Lumix 25mm f1.7 lens ($180)

This should bring you comfortably under $2000. The kit lens that comes with the G85 isn't the greatest but it's a start. I'd recommend getting the Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 if you have another $800 or so to shell out...you can probably get it cheaper used though.

The 25mm f1.7 is equivalent to a 50mm focal length on a full-frame camera (the G85 has a micro four thirds sensor) and should do well in lower light situations.

With the leftover money, I say go buy a decent bag or carrying case for the camera gear and get some SD cards, lens filters, etc.

You will need a flash, and most likely your on camera flash will not be enough.

You will need an E-TTL flash so that you can take pictures on the fly without having to adjust the power of your flash. You can buy a 3rd party one or a Canon version, or rent one if you want.

You will also want something to diffuse the light. There are simple caps, on-flash soft boxes, and another that seems to be popular is the Gary Fong Lightsphere. I personally use an on-camera softbox as it offers the largest light source, though the lightsphere seems to work pretty well too and isn't as bulky and fragile. These things also should be used in close range, over about 10ft the diffusion quality diminishes and they require too much power to light the subject.

Thanks! So something like [this?](https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Pieces-Bi-color-Video-Light/dp/B06XW3B81V/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=neewer%2Bled%2Bpanels&qid=1555434010&s=electronics&sr=1-3&th=1)

Looks like you can control their intensity and light temperature without gels, which is nice.

How do you position these? I know traditional lighting setups look something like [this](http://i.imgur.com/PXOMvoj.png) but as I am now I don't have a solid backdrop behind me for a good 15 feet or so.

I use this three-point lighting set bought on Amazon. A little pricey but it works amazingly.

The only caveat I would say is that in very dark portions of a game it can become difficult to make out what's on the screen with the bright lighting behind. I have a brighter set of dual monitors on my "someday" list.

You can check out one of my past broadcasts if you'd like to see what it looks like in action.

Since we're playing around with developing, I'd go with something like that. Your photo is under-exposed by a couple stops. I like the DOF you got on the shot though. What camera/lens did you use? You also should consider getting a grey card if you're going to do this a recurrent thing, they're very helpful for exposure and white balance. You can get cheap ones on amazon that have white/18% grey/black. You can get different sizes, and they're very useful.

I need to get myself a lightbox.

My lamp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=psdcmw_1063292_t1_B00WFZS55A

Softbox: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0093OWIYA/ref=pd_aw_fbt_421_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=BSC20C7JTC1YYXM1ZQJT

Bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HNEPPJM/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you get a lamp that can fit that softbox and fire those bulbs, you should have a decent setup. You can check my VODs if you need examples. I hope my links are good, because I am on mobile haha. But yeah, that setup works wonders for me so far.

Maybe this motherboard will be better compared to the ASUS Z170-A, much more white, the audio trace is white LED lit, PCI Express slots are better reinforced, also has SLI capacity, with one extra slot of spacing between graphics card for better air flow: (There is also the more expensive Z170A Krait Gaming 3X variant, as it has USB 3.1 Type C and better placement of the SATA 3 slots )

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-motherboard-z170kraitgaming

The CPU cooler I would use is the Cryorig R1 Universal, it is very large and come with a white shroud, however it is quite difficult to install similar to a top end noctua

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cryorig-cpu-cooler-crr1b

Then top it off with some blue or RGB led strips:

http://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-RGB-version-shipped-randomly/dp/B00N2QYP50/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462272851&sr=8-1&keywords=deepcool+LED

You can also add in blue led fans such as Thermaltake Riing:

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/thermaltake-case-fan-clf038pl12bua

Well if amazon ship to your country you are in luck.
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Photo-Reversible-Background/dp/B0064L8KYW/ref=sr_1_10?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1450894331&sr=1-10&keywords=green+screen
and if you really wanna go super professional you can buy this
http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photo-Video-Studio-Light/dp/B00LV46738/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1450894424&sr=8-7&keywords=chroma+key
or if you wanna build it
http://lifehacker.com/5644256/make-a-portable-green-screen-on-the-cheap

I think I may have close to the same lighting as u/cannondale1986 does. Here's a pic of one of the lights and one of mine and my husbands setup with the lights on - http://imgur.com/a/y1X3Z

Here's what we bought.

LimoStudio 2 Sets of 18W LED Photography Table Top Photo Studio Lighting Kit with Energy Saving Light Bulb and Light Stand Tripod, AGG1077 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DP65ARO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_rNuV7xRmksQbV

CowboyStudio 9-Inch Portable Quick Setup Speedlite Softbox with Velcro Strap for Nikon Canon Flash Light (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0093OWIYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_WvhgqzWOjwwaF

We didn't have many places to put the lights on the desk, so we took them off their stands and figured out a way to anchor them to the wall. It works out fine for us because it's a fairly small room to do that in. The setup is easy to figure out when it comes to hooking the stand to the lamp. The only tricky part is if you're using a softbox to diffuse, you need to take the metal lamp shade anchor piece off by removing the nut and then put the light into the softbox. You can then put the the pieces back together and you're done. Here's the YouTube video I used to figure it out - https://youtu.be/Ek-VoKte9ts

Also @u/cannondale1986 - Hopefully my husband and I see you around the TwitchRP community. :-)

Hey, wondering if anyone have experience with using a camera stand or something similar for light house, and have any recommendations? Just have an open area and can't attach to wall.

I asked a while back and someone suggested using a Telescopic pole instead, but its something like 4 metres under my roof so its a bit less convenient.

Edit: Actually just found something searching for Vive Stand on amazon so that was easy https://www.amazon.de/Neewer-Packungen-190-Zentimeter-verstellbar-Produktfotografie/dp/B01LZ1Y076/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526746803&sr=8-2&keywords=htc+vive+stand

Anyone knows where to get clear plastic pocket refills like this and this? Looking for the ones that can fit business cards or are able to place photos (any size) instead of the A4 paper kind which is sold in Popular.

If you are looking for a full setup with lights and backgrounds this looks like a pretty good option, but it is close to your max budget. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSMRZEO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uX-6AbFA0SSHR

If you have Amazon prime and don't mind spending $20 more to get it a little faster...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JF96QP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mX-6AbR2EKDZE

If you are just looking for lights you can go with either this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXA1J0H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8Z-6Ab8798CGM

Or this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018KE5XUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F1-6AbEZSMH3Z

All of these kits use pretty similar gear. The main thing you want to look at is the bulbs.

I use a Galaxy S8+ for my photos and I have a Samsung Dex Dock to make it my computer in my work space too. I do my photos, editing, listing and shipping all from the same device. I have a photo set up similar to the first and second one. I'm also in a basement so natural light isn't an option.

Here is a sample photo I took with those lights and my phone. I do use pro mode most of the time. https://imgur.com/gallery/DZMLEcL

you should be fine id recommend these stands to use with the sensors since your obviously not going to be drilling holes in the walls at the convention.

Secondly Possibly protective skin though its not 100% necessary but does look cool


and last but not least you'll need a good collection of games and demos thry this handy dandy list and see what you like once you have your vive.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18oSyAAbS0RSA_QdG9QBjRkd-25Cj8rpBE9d5nyITKtI/edit#gid=0

Best single-speedlight softbox? I've narrowed it down to 3 from amazon.ca (I'm Canadian). Cheers!


80cm Umbrella/Softbox Hybrid https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Octagonal-Speedlite-Speedlight-Photography/dp/B00PIM3I6I/ref=pd_cp_421_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=490C3RA3JDVRJ1MVAX65
120cm Umbrella/Softbox Hybrid https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00PIM3I7W/ref=s9_simh_gw_g421_i1_r?pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=T6VB1JZ3BEWFBSR1TP56&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=b06971ce-9992-44c1-9ee0-eb9792e71b5e&pf_rd_i=desktop
Traditional Shoot-through 24x24inch softbox https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-24x24-Inch-Professional-Off-Camera-Photography/dp/B004XY65WQ/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466446284&sr=1-11&keywords=softbox

I bought this recently. It's fucking great. Two umbrellas two softboxes three backdrops and frames and tripods for all of it. Works great so far.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LV46738/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_VwPPwbG1DHRE5

So from my use, i like a 35mm lens or 50mm.

The A6000 is a great choice. I didn't see a mention of it, But you'll also need a capture card or a cam link 4k.

You may want a boom arm stand to give you a lot of angle control. Something like this Manfrotto 196B-2 143BKT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OPWSYM

I have removed your post because it contains URL shorteners which are against this subreddits rules. Please have a read of rule 6:

https://www.reddit.com/r/PSVR/wiki/rules#wiki_6._don.27t_post_spam.

You are welcome to submit your post again, using the full links i.e.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TM600U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_1MxDybV8J64GW

not

http://a.co/gEJcBCD

If you want to keep it tidier looking, you can create named hyperlinks by putting the link name is round brackets, then the URL in square brackets like this:

Air Cushioned Light Stand

There are different sizes of plastic PVC-free binder sheets you can buy. The standard 3x3 are perfect for photocards and the 2 pocket and 3 pocket ones are great for basically everything else.

I can't stand wearing glasses and I don't like how F.lux looks, so I invested in some led strips along the back of my television and monitor to create a "bias lighting" effect. I think it helps and looks cool too, its like having a night light. You can get something like this or make your own: https://www.amazon.com/Antec-Halo-LED-Bias-Lighting/dp/B0053B347M

$54 Greenscreen x3
$100 Better lighting
$300 Pair of chairs
$80 Sectional table
$534 total. Little pricey but the overall Viewer count would make up the difference!

Grab a corner of the house and do a "between two ferns" style of set-up. Get two nice individual chairs with a Single section table in between for some league related props and I would watch this every week.

Keep up the good work man!

Hey guys! So I decided to upgrade my cheap Amazon lighting kit to something with diffusers and more bulbs. I'm 6'4" ~241lbs. Diet-wise I conditioned myself to under ~50 grams of carbs a day for 2 weeks with 3 gallons of water a day (ouch). Then 24 hours prior I carb loaded and basically dehydrated myself to pull out any hydration under the skin. Thanks for all the advice and photo tips from my last shoot! It really helped showing off my strengths. I've attached a couple more photos that my girl took, plus a photo that displays my height. Any more tips for next time would be appreciated!

https://imgur.com/fYZtQtb.jpg

https://imgur.com/7NzyvzM.jpg

https://imgur.com/mS7s21z.jpg

https://imgur.com/Pu28ehg.jpg

She shot it on her Cannon t6i and the new lighting kit is Fancierstudio Lighting Kit 2400 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047FHOWG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_nzQCDbYPPNCFV

I've been digging on these Antec light-strips. Yeah they're aren't the perfect white temp or whatever but they're pretty nifty.

http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Halo-LED-Bias-Lighting/dp/B0053B347M

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012TI52FS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_y2c2CbJBMVASW

This is what I got. It’s small and fits in my camera case. Mostly comes out in oddly lit dinner scenes where I don’t want my sweetie to look like a lemon from the yellow house lights. :)

A lot of people will start off with the Panasonic G7. It's basically the cheapest 4K interchangeable lens camera you can get right now. The quality of the video is really good, and if has a microphone input if you eventually choose to add one of those to your setup. Using a 4K camera will also help you be a little more accurate with your post production when working with a green screen.


For the green screen and lighting, just start with a backdrop kit. The key to green screen is not necessarily using an expensive kit. What you really need, is consistent lighting across the backdrop, and that kit will be a good start to be able to do that.

Weekends are my busiest streaming days since I normally run from 12pm-1am but I'll try to throw a guide together this weekend and post it on the sub.

But for you:

LimoStudio Green Screen Stand - $35

LimoStudio Green Screen - $18

LimoStudio Studio Light Umbrella Kit - $52

Alternatively, you could get the softboxes instead:

LimoStudios Light Softbox Kit - $77

What's interesting is Limo no longer sells the green screen and stand together without the lighting kit but I don't think that's a deal killer.

Alternatively, if you want the full setup in one go, with two umbrellas, two softboxes, four light stands, a green screen and stand, and a black and a blue backdrop. The only thing substantially different from this kit is that it leaves out the third, small light stand from the umbrella kit that is typically used to project light on the subject's back to create a "highlight" on the outline of the subject to help the chromakey separate from the subject and the green screen but I don't use this and don't have any issues.

LimoStudios Full Light and Backdrop Kit - $143

Also, quick question, when I make this guide do you think it would be helpful to provide light setup and position guides as well as chromakey guides?

By indoor lighting do you mean the normal lights in your house? If so that's the problem, turn them off and use a couple good lights to properly light what you're filming instead.

something like this will go a long way. Or better two of these will light up a room nicely.

Thanks again!

I would really love a Viltrox panel
https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L132T-Bi-color-Dimmable-NP-F550/dp/B01MYGDGUQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=viltrox&qid=1557941691&s=gateway&sr=8-7

I use a light stand (kinda like a tripod, but the legs are farther away from the neck, which is longer) something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TM600U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then you can also remove things from the image like what is done in this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFqMfpQPda4

Would be an awesome way to get a viltrox! As always, thanks for doing the giveaway.

I bought 2 of these lights on Amazon and am pretty pleased. I think there are some sets of 2 that end up being cheaper, but they have definitely made a difference in my listings!

I have this one and it works pretty well. The only limitation (which is purely a software limitation) is that since it's the "express" model it only supports a single monitor. The "pro" version supports multiple displays.

I get around that by changing the primary display and re-running the software though.

I have one of these and love it. Easy to carry around and use.

I've been looking for some budget soft lights, I was looking at these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G3423NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_N8XACbM08GA1K

But I would love to know if anyone has better suggestions.

Thanks!

I went with the Deepcool RGB kit,

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DEEPCOOL-RGB350-LED-Strip-Computer/dp/B00N2QYP50

Amazing how expensive some of the other kits are.

I’m interested in this Viltrox. Thanks for the chance!

You could set your self up pretty good with $500. I have a couple suggestions, but the first would be to get yourself a cheap prime lens first. Either a 50mm 1.8 or a 24mm pancake. Both are around $100 and would still leave quite a bit in your budget. So, saying you go ahead and do that:

• You could get a couple of Yongnuo 560 IV
  You could choose to fire then optically with your Canon speed lite or get one of these
  
• Grab a few of these to hold your flashes
  
• And a few of theseto stand them up
  
• In terms of modifiers you have a few options. You could go with cheap umbrellas which are fine. Or you could get some small soft boxes. I say just grab a huge modifier. As big as you can get. It's gonna really depends on how much space you have. check this out
  
  That's a decent, portable, and effective setup with two lenses for right about $500.
  
  Since your using someone else's studio lugging equipment is gonna be a pain. That's why I think speed lights is the way to go. But if you don't mind, look into a monolight kit. For your portraits I really do think you'll like what you get from a fast prime lens.

For this video we are using a single articulated arm attatched to a table using this clamp. it works, but you can see the shaking of the table pretty easily.

Another suggestion these here are bretty nice and silent. (just make sure to let them stand on something soft like a towel.

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01LZ1Y076/

The simplest and most economical solution would probably be to use an LED ring, such as in this video. You can find very inexpensive ones on places like Amazon—something like this.

[This is the one I am planning on purchasing.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LV46738/)

Yes, it is basically a strong light bulb, but I mainly want to play around and see how my photos change with the diffused and directed lighting, changing angles and distances etc.

A chest would be awesome! In my case I bought a 5 inch binder, 5x7 photo pages for the medium and small tiles, and regular page protectors to store the large tiles in(I have all the expansions same as you). I think I'll be be switching to a couple of 2" or 3" binders to make searching and sorting easier. The 5 inch binder is pretty full and I havn't even added Sanctum of Twilight or the upcoming Horrific Journey expansions yet.

Imgur album of how it looks

Amz link to 5 inch heavy duty binder

Amz link to 5x7 photo binder pages

Edit:
I was also recommended these clear round bases for the minis as well, but havn't tried them.

Amz link to bases

I got these Antec LED light strips last week. I got two of them and put them on the back of my monitor, then plugged them into a powered USB hub. I have a 27.5" monitor so I needed two, but for smaller monitors, one would probably work.

They're not RGB but provide good bias lighting, and still look cool. They also have switches to turn them on or off, or you could hook them up to the USB on your monitor so that when your monitor turns off, they will. Lots of options...

http://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-RGB-COLOR-LED-Strips/dp/B00N2QYP50?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

pretty nice with a large range of colours.

Well if you are in scenarios with lots of different color temperatures, your white balance is really just a choice for which source you'd like to be nuetral, wouldn't it? I think sometimes if scenes have multiple light sources, perhaps the lights are mixing, which could be giving some weird results.


How about just a normal shot in pure daylight, with daylight white balance, does that look right? You could do a test with shooting the daylight balanced jpeg and then shooting a raw version. Then in lightroom, use the dropper tool on a pure grey area to set a white balance and see if it looks the same. If it doesn't, you might have a defective unit. Maybe use one of these if you'd like to be extra precise! https://www.amazon.com/Calibration-Exposure-Photography-Included-Instruction/dp/B012TI52FS

As for lighting around your workspace, I just picked these up today: Antec Bias Lighting can be placed behind your monitor to give it a white glow which is supposedly good for your eyes, and Antec Advance Accent are LED strips that come in red/blue.

Set-up is very easy as they're both USB-powered. Just plug it in and turn on the switch on the cable.

alternatively, you can get an LED (or CFL) ringlight -- popular with youtube and instagram mak,eup gurus (my girlfriend is an MUA, so I got her one of these for christmas)

There are cheaper alternatives like this, though it has less LEDs and isn't nearly as bright, or a slightly cheaper CFL option

Lightstands as I can't wall mount. Lightstands are better than tripods as the have telescopic necks, not legs so they take up less floor space, and as a photographer, I use these all the time, so I know they are stable and don't wobble (I put £1000s worth of lighting equipment on mine)

[People are now selling VR specific ones online with a ballhead 1/4" mount on the top.](Neewer 2 Packs 75 inches/190 centimeters Adjustable Light Stands with 2 Pieces 1/4-inch Screw Tripod Mini Ball Head Hot Shoe Adapters for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait and Product Photography https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LZ1Y076/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i0NMybFHQ5A3H)

I will definitely look into those; thanks! I was considering the Antec bias LEDs but the ones you got look enticing as well.

Thank you again! I’m interested in this [Viltrox] (https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L132T-Bi-color-Dimmable-NP-F550/dp/B01MYGDGUQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=viltrox&qid=1557941691&s=gateway&sr=8-7)

Probably what's known as a "ring light" https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Dimmable-Plastic-Universal/dp/B00ZL177PO/

Good for makeup tutorials and stuff like that.

Mounting pictures and small things like this is considered normal use; you typically would have to patch holes before leaving, which is easy, and pay some pro-rated amount towards painting that room if it had been repainted recently (2-3 years in California).

Tripods work too - on concrete. Wood floors make the sensors wobble when anyone is moving around. (Edit: a rod as suggested by /u/Muzanshin works better with wood)
I got these; though the price has gone up a bit they're still great at $36 for a pair:

Neewer Set of Two 9 feet/260 centimeters Photo Studio Light Stands for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait, and Product Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS

And the ball heads you'll need to tilt the cameras down enough for $11:

MDW 2 Pcs Tripod Mini Ball Head for HTC VIVE Base Station,lighthouses,Camera Camcorder,Holder for HTC VIVE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M07M9D4


This set is a bit shorter but includes 2 stands and 2 ball heads for $40 total:

Neewer 2 Packs 75 inches/190 centimeters Adjustable Light Stands with 2 Pieces 1/4-inch Screw Tripod Mini Ball Head Hot Shoe Adapters for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait and Product Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ1Y076

Yup, that's why you need to have the camera spot meter the white balance off the focus point, and set the focus point on the center of the rifle. If your camera has the option, have the spot size be as small as possible.

Ideally, you would take an out of focus photo of an 18% grey card with manual white balance, then correct it in post. I'm sure /u/bcphotog can chime in.

My set up is similar to /u/alittlekink 's.
My computer an duel monitors are set up on an ikea desk made out of a Ikea Alex drawer unit leg set. I use two softboxes, One on the stand on one side & then one sitting on the floor on the other side of my desk. (The floor softbox hides the belly shadow) Before the lighting kit, when I had housemates, I used a cheep target lamp with mutiple heads like this.

My desk sits in front of the only window in the room, so I can use the natural light as filler during the day.

My bed is placed sideways (longways) against the wall opposite the desk, made up daybed style.

I use a Logitech c930e placed on a cheep tripod that I can move around.

I try to use the back camera of my phone more often than the selfie/front side but it's harder to look good! I bought a lighting set on amazon that really helped me out too.
My insta is @kimandmakeup :D

I have two of these on a 55 inch tv.. I use the usb on my tv to power them its works great http://www.amazon.ca/Antec-Halo-Led-Bias-Lighting/dp/B0053B347M

Some cheap LED strips. I got the same one from Newegg, it's awesome.

This is the set I bought. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Photography-Portrait-Umbrella-Continuous-Lighting/dp/B018KE5XUO

I use this. It works great, and it paired with a white background really makes all the difference.

I've been using this clamp - http://amzn.to/1S7oTqS - in addition to this arm - http://amzn.to/1S7oWD2 - to do a lot of my videos. It's very flexible and strong.

I also once built a rig using PVC that I attached to the ceiling that I could swing out of the way when I wasn't using it. It wasn't as solid as the clamp and arm, though.

I use these. If you put a large tile in the bottom pocket, you can still put a small tile in the top pocket and have it pretty visible.

I picked up one from a local Walmart. Generic cheap 2 ring binder.

And as for the manual size, there are different sized pages available. If the size difference is minimal, then they will likely fit in 5x7 pages like these.

That's sweat. Let me recommend something like this for the replacement photo.

Edit: *I meant 'sweet.'

Interesting this looks like it could work. Does that power brick plug straight into the PSU? How was your experience with the pre applied sticky tape?

DEEPCOOL RGB350 amazon

I second this and personally have some Neewer Bi-color panels are they are pretty good, as well as bright. $160 for 2 lights, bags, and stands + AC power adapters (no batteries), but they do work with standard Sonys, can't recommend them enough IMO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XW3B81V/ref=psdc_3109915011_t1_B072Q42GXQ

Use your scopes. A waveform monitor and vectorscope will tell you exactly how bright and how colorful your video is no matter what state your monitor is in.

If you really want to dial it in, check out a product like the DataColor SpyderExpress to calibrate your monitor: http://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder4Express-S4X100-Display-Calibration/dp/B006TF3746

DeepCool RGB 350, not the largest variety of colors but it's good for what I needed

You could also use a led ring light, example: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Dimmable-Plastic-Universal/dp/B00ZL177PO/

Don't take up much space but give good lightning.

It could be anything from frosted glass to a translucent plastic panel to some satin cloth. If you're DIYing experiment covering your LED array with different materials.

I made a photo booth setup with an ipad and a large DIY ring light with flexible LED strips wrapped with a satin-type ribbon as a diffuser. So you can use a lot of different things to good effect.

LEDs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQV6NNC

Light diffusing acrylic:
https://www.acrylite-shop.com/US/us/category.htm?$category=addajh9ktfj

Ring light already made for you:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZL177PO

I have the predecessor to the 055XPROB legs, the Manfrotto 3021BPRO. They also have a horizontal mode, and I agree that they can work as long as the subject is well within the bounds of the tripod legs (if directly above), or if the camera setup is light enough to allow an overhang of the horizontal crossbar (or if your table is large enough to allow full extension of the legs).

Another option could be a combination of Manfrotto Magic Arm components, such as this basic arm and then a superclamp. Those components are the least expensive, but there are also heavy-duty arms suited for SLRs.

If you need shots from directly overhead, a copy stand could work.

Actually, like most things, you can find a half decent Chinese knockoff on Amazon for less than 1/8th the price.

Here, you could mount most HOTAS setups to just about any chair with these:

2x SuperClamps:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LV7X1K/ref=pd_aw_sim_421_of_47?ie=UTF8&dpID=41F8DL

Variable Friction Arm with Cantilever Mount:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OPWSYM/ref=pd_aw_sim_421_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=418a0dA3LPL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL390_SR390%2C390_&refRID=06Q0Y7568G7FFWFK6ZPN

Tilt Mount with QD plate:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004D7PX58/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1463761788&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=monopod+tilt+head&dpPl=1&dpID=41r%2BahgiRML&ref=plSrch

Your best bet is just doing it yourself using you iPhone and these few items from Amazon. It'll cost you about $100 for these 3 items, but you'll never have to pay someone to do it for you, so its worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/Julius-Studio-Photography-Backdrop-Background/dp/B015YHXHWQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1526082839&sr=1-3&keywords=white+photo+backdrop

https://www.amazon.com/Julius-Studio-Background-Backdrop-Photography/dp/B072BCNRTY/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B072BCNRTY&pd_rd_r=3P35Q5G0Z2FWQG3Q4TAK&pd_rd_w=ZQN9c&pd_rd_wg=ReAuO&psc=1&refRID=3P35Q5G0Z2FWQG3Q4TAK

https://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-DK2-Professional-Photography-continuous/dp/B004TSCARK/ref=sr_1_7?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1526082936&sr=1-7&keywords=studio+lighting

http://www.amazon.ca/Datacolor-S4X100-Spyder4Express-Display-Calibration/dp/B006TF3746/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419623059&sr=8-3&keywords=spyder4pro

I actually have this product and it works fairly well for issues like this.

i grabbed one during the sale as well; it should arrive tuesday. here are some things i ordered that were recommended on several guides i found online:

Purchased physical:

• Light Emitter Tripods
  
  
• Magnetic braided USB Charging Cables for the Controllers
  
  
• Shrink tubing for the HMD cable
  
  
• Braided sleeve for the HMD cable
  
  
• Washable HMD cover
  
  Purchased games:
  
  
• tilt brush
  
• space pirate trainer
  
• serious sam vr
  
• raw data
  
• project cars
  
• universe sandbox 2
  
• subnautica
  
  Bundled with my Vive order:
  
  
• zombie training simulator
  
• the gallery - episode 1

Just a few more to add to the list:

18% grey card

Neewer TT560 flash

Neewer 43-inch 5-in-1 reflector

Tiffen Circular polarizer

7 ft. light stand

47" Speedlight Umbrella Softbox

Continuous lighting kit

New camera bag


[EDIT] Added more things to the list, as I think of things I'll continue to expand it.

I'd like to get a softbox to use with my existing speedlite for shooting portraits outdoors. Preferably something where the flash enters the rear of the setup. I also need a stand. My budget is around $200 +/- $50.

I don't really want a softbox that the flash goes inside of, like this neewer one: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Octagonal-Speedlite-Speedlight-Photography/dp/B00PIM3I7W/

It looks like the zipper where the stand would enter would be a pain and limit the range of adjustment. Also, I don't think the flash wouldn't be centered and might cause issues. If I'm wrong here, let me know!

Thanks!

Are the cheap "studio lighting" kits with the CFL bulbs any good for a beginner?

Example

this how-to is pretty good

but for the most part i use this device

That's a pretty vague question. I have one of these that I use a 430EX II in and it seems to do fine.

If it's very bright daylight or you're combating hard shadows, it needs to be closer, but I've never had an issue with it really.

So would something like this be good? https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B01LZ1Y076/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G02VDb5CY3N4S?

I use this. but with any of these make sure not to leave the lights on too long. They get really hot.

These would improve the quality of your photos immensely: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047FHOWG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PNmGub0RG9GKD

I have quite a few (20+ I think). Do you mean something like this? http://www.amazon.com/BCW-2-Pocket-Archival-Storage-Binder/dp/B003FZDFI6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1365382028&sr=8-1&keywords=pro-2t+postcard

I've been thinking about doing something similar with one of my puppets being a YouTube vlogger. I've been eyeing this selfie stick/tripod on Amazon with either a phone or a GoPro mounted on it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WQYN3B/

​

I'm also looking into how I could mount some kind of flex or articulated arm like these below to my forearm so that I can get it to look like he's holding the camera but I haven't found any way to brace it to my forearm yet

https://procam.com/manfrotto-237hd-heavy-duty-flex-arm-for-super-clamp-22685

https://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-196B-2-2-Section-Articulated-Bracket/dp/B000OPWSYM/

These don't look too bad for LEDs. https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Pieces-Bi-color-Video-Light/dp/B06XW3B81V/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=neewer+led+lights&qid=1574087935&sr=8-9

Or this, https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Reflector-Continuous-Recording-Photography/dp/B07PBG17PG/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=neewer+led+lights&qid=1574088078&sr=8-13 (But you will probably need a scrim to defuse light with that)

I didn't: http://www.amazon.com/Square-Perfect-3085-SP200-Professional/dp/B000PC4A0O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420817990&sr=8-1&keywords=White+box

But it's really not very good. It's passable, but my white back drop came with a crease in it and I can't get it un-crease... short of ironing it maybe? Doesn't matter, I just traded a buddy of mine that owns a studio for one of his custom light boxes (he designed and built it himself, it's not as janky as it sounds)... Pretty stoked to try that out.

gorilla pod or some kind of articulating/flexible mount like this

I think to do it properly, you need something like This.

However, that is just what I have been told. Most people who use these and bring them up are professional photographers.

Many Cam is a great one.

Here is a cheap light system...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018KE5XUO/ref=sspa_mw_detail_3?psc=1

Also don’t use a built in webcam. They are crap and customers won’t watch. Most girls stream in HD.

I use a softbox like this.

2 pocket pages! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003FZDFI6/r


There are 3 pocket pages that have 4x6 pockets, but I disliked that they were not all the same direction. Also, bonus, two sided means my 16 page pockets have the class cards for the figures (with 2 double pockets).

I'm on mobile, so forgive the utter lack of formatting. I was looking for a zipper, three ring binder, a spot of graph paper pads, and big enough pockets so I didn't have to squeeze things in and out. See below for what I got.

The portfolio: K.DESIGNS- Zippered Leather... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y48BBKG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The sleeves:
Full page: 200-Pack Standard (Not Economy)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077S6Z6MS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Half page: BCW 2-Pocket Clear Protective... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FZDFI6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Trading card page: Ultra Pro 9-Pocket Silver Series... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HIOVOG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If I had to guess, you are using normal household lights, maybe 50w, 100w, 150w. With such a setup, any extraneous light has a noticeable impact. And you have warm colors for the whole scene (household lights lean to warm).

I use one of these: MOUNTDOG 1350W Photography Continuous Softbox Lighting Kit 20"X28" Professional Photo Studio Equipment with 2pcs E27 Socket 5500K Video Lighting Bulb for Filming Portraits Shoot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G3423NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dHAJDbGY7KJ5S

The brightness is intense and full-spectrum. The intensity means that you have to adjust your camera, which is not a big deal. It also means that any other light or reflection that happens will be negligible. The full-spectrum color means you have a wider range of color to start with and can either leave it or you have a lot more to work with in post.

This is the very first video I did on my kitchen table with normal kitchen lighting around me: https://youtu.be/iy7Lzc5fyGc

Here is my most recent video with the softbox light and a constructed white box around me: https://youtu.be/F8uSafHRffY

These Ravelli 10' heavy duty stands have been working well for me for OCF.

I use this Manfrotto Nano stand for destinations or sometimes if I just need something for details or portraits.

And I use these clamps if I can get away without using stands.

WOOOOAH, that is WAAAY overkill, and not the best option either (it would work, but it's the hard way, and there's WAY too many lights there). You will be able to change the colour manually but that's it.

This http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Halo-LED-Bias-Lighting/dp/B0053B347M is a propper Bias lighting kit.

Bias lighting isn't designed to change with the screen, but the simple white glow of reflected light from behind a screen can significantly reduce eye strain and even improve perceived image quality.

I put a rope light behind my TV a while back (because we had it anyway, and finding large TV sized kits can be tricky), and my TV looks noticeably better now (when I bother to use it, it's a bit of a pain to climb behind the TV to turn it on & off). It allows me to turn off all the lights and not get sore eyes from watching the bright TV in a dark room.

I have this, and it works pretty well. The sticky stuff on it sucks but i just attached it with tape.

I buckled and bought two of these. Worth ever penny. They're not enough for a full room though.

Maybe, but it's reviews are kinda iffy and it's kinda pricy for a lighting kit. I really just want some simple lights, what about this

Try a white or grey card. Hold it up, in the light you're using and set a manual WB. As far as I understand it's a sure thing if you use it right, but I'm an AC on the holding side not the DoP's side.

These are the umbrella lights that I have:
https://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-DK2-Umbrella-Professional-Photography/dp/B004TSCARK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1478013351&sr=8-6&keywords=umbrella+lights

This is what I mean about using foam boards:
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/27/33/61/2733611f93695a589884bc848c200a21.jpg

I'm not sure if I'll be able to create the same effect with umbrella lights.

I'd probably just go through amazon, there will be dozens on there.

http://www.amazon.com/Ravelli-ALS-Cushioned-Included-Equipment/dp/B003TM600U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452339693&sr=8-1&keywords=tall+tripod for example

I recommend the Neewer. I bought two different pair.

The Neewer Set of Two 9 feet/260 centimeters Photo Studio Light Stands for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait, and Product Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS

And Ravelli ALS Full 10' Air Cushioned Light Stand With Included Adaptor To Also Support 1/4" and 3/8" Photo Equipment and Heavy Duty Carry Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TM600U

The Ravelli has a nice slow decend once the nut is loose. But it has a little play in the head. I haven't notice any jitter in VR but I suspect it might be a issue for some.

The Neewer are basic and light but sturdy and almost half the cost.

if its a light issue the easiest fix would be an on camera light. These things are super handy and just attach to the hot shoe of your camera. the light may be a bit harsh but if low light is your issue, its a sure way to get it lit.

If you are more concerned about good(smooth) lighting, Youll have to drop a bit more cash on a 3 point light set and learn how to use it.

I'm surprised it hasn't been suggested yet, but get some ambient lighting behind your monitors. Nothing too bright, just a simple strip of LEDs would be sufficient, like these. It helps reduce the eyestrain from the heavy lighting contrast between the monitors and the negative space behind them.

You don't need a special fabric. It just has to be green. Here's what I found just from a quick search on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Photography-Backdrop-Chromakey-6x9-background/dp/B001PCQTDO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1320200034&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012TI52FS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I only use the grey card and for white balance.

It's actually an overhead setup. I got my Sony a6300 held by this arm and is held by the edge of my table wit this

I have this one on mine... yours is cheaper and has more reviews... hmmm....

Amazon to the rescue!

http://www.amazon.com/6x9-Chromakey-Backdrop-Background-Fancierstudio/dp/B001PCQTDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422224655&sr=8-1&keywords=green+screen&pebp=1422224658960&peasin=B001PCQTDO

Actually they cost about half as much

I know I'm a little late on this, but this is the one I got.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PCQTDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i believe they mean this kind of thing my dude

yup, here are some basic ones

this also needs a separate adapter (cheap)

I have this one and link

My wife is a professional photographer. She, and by extension I, highly suggest you invest in a colorimeter, such as this one. That way, any monitor you use will perform to it's utmost potential.

You'll need a colorimeter for accurate colors across multiple displays. Or you could exchange the monitors for a new pair.

Same deal but remote controlled! https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-RGB350-strip-computer-case/dp/B00N2QYP50

Hook up your PC with some fancy LEDs!

this one :)

Yup! It's just that I'm literally 1-2ft from the camera when I'm recording. I'm basically using one of these

About $17.99 over a lifetime. Probably got it on flex pay.

If anyone is wondering its a Leopold 660c, and a Leopold 210tp with MX Browns.

LED strip is Antec Halo LED Bias Lighting.

Also showing some keys made by Binge

Antec Bias Lighting 12 bucks and designed expressly for this purpose.

Adhesive strip sticks to monitor, comes with usb plug. I just got two of these for my monitor and the HD tv version.

The color on these won't be great, but this gives you two decently soft sources, and relatively cheap. You'll still need to hang some diffusion on it, and probably look into getting some minus green gel.

Neewer 2 Pieces Bi-color 660 LED Video Light and Stand Kit Includes:(2)3200-5600K CRI 96+ Dimmable Light with U Bracket and Barndoor and (2)75 inches Light Stand for Studio Photography, Video Shooting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XW3B81V/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_h9e2DbR7NFHH7

Photography--good photography--is *really* tricky, video more so.

Caveat--I've not used the iPhoneXR at all, and I'm more than a bit of a camera snob. I only use my cellphone for "documentation" pictures, or on the rare occasion I don't have a "real" camera with me. I carry a compact camera in my "man purse" so I always have a good camera on me.

If you're not going to be streaming the video I'd suggest a "real" camera, maybe two so you can easily get different angles.

I would also suggest getting some "cheap" lights off Amazon, like these https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Pieces-Bi-color-Video-Light/dp/B06XW3B81V/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Video+lights&qid=1570067275&sr=8-3 (not recommending those, something *like* that) to give the room more light. You don't (necessarily) focus these on you, but bounce them off walls etc.

Look on youtube for videos on video lighting and how to shoot videos.

Personally what I did was order some fabric such as; http://www.amazon.com/6x9-Chromakey-Backdrop-Background-Fancierstudio/dp/B001PCQTDO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1451251943&sr=8-4&keywords=Green+Screen+Fabric and went to the local Lowe's to get some PVC pipe to hold the green screen up with, then bought two desk lamps for lighting and it works perfectly.

Though now I regret the whole PVC pipe ordeal as it's a pain in the butt when I can just use ceiling hooks to hold it up with minimal hassle. :P

No. It's actually 2 of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053B347M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Arrow comes with a hole tapped for 1/4-20 tripod screws, it's underneath the grip rubber, but it sucks. The metal is too thin and there's not enough threads, it doesn't stay secure.

I use their mounting bracket and attach it to a photographic lightstand when I need a portable directional antenna solution.

Try the "Antec Halo Bias Lighting" - it's a strip of LEDs powered by usb. If your monitor has usb ports it's crazy simple.


http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Halo-LED-Bias-Lighting/dp/B0053B347M