(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best car audio speakers & subwoofers

I have an extremely similar setup in my 1999 Ski Nautique, minus the tower. I would have loved help picking out equipment/installing, but didn't have any available, so had to learn as I went.

Head Unit - I basically got the older version of this. Make sure what you get has 6 pre-outs Head Unit $120

Amp - Go with a 5 channel amp to save space, I bought this one Polk 5 Channel $280

Speakers - 2 sets of these, which sound incredibly clear Polk 6.5 $250

Sub - I put together a sub from components. You will need sub, box, and grill. I'll link the sub I got but don't remember the box or grill. Went with 10 inch to save space, but it sounds great and is clear/sloud. Sub Around $120

Speaker Wire - Went with 14 guage, not sure what others would recommend here Wire $25

Amp Kit - Not sure what difference is between grades with these Kit $33

Basically, I had about the same budget, and it came to about $800-$900, I think prices have changed a bit since then.
I really went with clarity over loudness because I can't stand turning up the radio and hearing distortion, but this setup is both clear and very loud. I have gotten a lot of compliments on it.

To add tower speakers later you will probably need another amp, and maybe an alternator, not totally sure on that, if someone else has more advice.

Let me know if you have any questions, and hope this helps. Good luck!

As someone who spent an inordinate amount of time completely gutting his 9-3 Aero's sound system, I'm more than happy to offer a handful of tips for this. I dug about forever trying to find walk-throughs and info, but I'll be damned if that wasn't a tedious process. Also, if you need any further help, feel free to PM me, I'm a wealth of knowledge on this, sadly.

Anyhow, a couple of things:

• Firstly, and surprisingly, I found that after removing and replacing all of the factory speakers in the car, the pair that by leagues made the most significant impact on the overall sound were the 3.5" component speakers in the dash. The stock units offered laughable bass response and sounded tinny as hell, they always bugged me the greatest. Take those suckers out (only 2 screws per each, aligned to where they're fairly easy to remove), use a flat-headed screw driver to pop the tweeters out, and drop in these suckers. Yes, they are coaxial (i.e., no separate tweeters), but don't bother with an additional pair of tweeters, these Infinity's are far better than any equivalent setup, least of which the stock setup.
  
  
• Next, the door speakers. These proved to be the most time-consuming, not least of which the way they are mounted. Once you have the door cards out (great guide here), you'll find the speakers mounted on the door card itself, as opposed to being set into the door frame. Now, whatever speakers you go for (definitely choose coaxial in this case, a component setup in the doors is a complete nightmare), keep in mind you only have 2 1/2" depth to set the speakers, so be careful when choosing your kit. I went with these guys from Boston Acoustics. Now, while they're no longer selling this model, just go for their new-model 6.5" coaxial, or the similar offering by Infinity Kappa. In my experience, Boston Acoustics and Infinity Kappa (owned by Harman/Kardon, no less) offer the best experience in after-market car audio, touting (in my opinion) the best and brightest midrange and high, with tight, accurate bass. Anyhow, unless you're planning to amp the setup, this is all you really have to do. However, if you are planning to add an aftermarket amp, tackling this is a whole new animal. You're looking at pulling the factory amp out from under the seat and bypassing it, something I can walk you through should you need to.
  
  
• Lastly, the rear deck. You have slots for the 6x9's for the Arc and Aero and slots for 4" speakers for the Linear and Vector models. I only replaced the 6x9's, and used a pair of Rockford Fosgate Component speakers, which I somewhat regret. The best option for these speakers (again, in my opinion) are Inifinity Kappa's 693.9i 6x9 coaxials, the bass response is unprecedented (deep, full, and crisp), and the highs are brilliant. These are by far and away the trickiest to mount, caused me quite a bit of frustration and still do. Each 6x9 is set by 4 screws at each corner, but each speaker is pushed so close its respective rear pillar that two of the screws are almost wholly inaccessible. Either find yourself a trick screwdriver that can be used in extremely tight places, or do what I did and simply use a set of pliers to remove the two hidden screws from the bottom of the rear deck.
  
  This all aside, you may want to consider some sound deadening, particularly in the rear deck, especially if you plan on amping the setup. People say go with dynamat, but shit's expensive, and better alternatives are out there. Personally, I took the decidedly ghetto route, and cut out a foam mattress pad to size and set it in the deck. Also, you'll want to kill the rattling coming from the third brake light over the rear seats, you'd be astonished at how much cabin noise that crappy plastic cover is responsible for. Use weatherstripping to cover that damned thing on the inside, and just place it back, problems solved. Anyhow, thanks for making me feel useful today, have upvotes!

High chance your speakers are blown. Dodge speakers only last about 10 years before the foam surrounds dry out and start to fall apart, leaving you with a cone that rattles around whenever there's bass.

Your truck has 6.75" speakers front and rear with a triangle mount (3 screws). Most aftermarket speakers are 6.5" with 4-screw mounting. Some speakers come with the adapters, but if they don't, you can always get a set from Metra. They're not strictly needed, you can just make your own holes, but it makes life easier.

You can pick up 4x Pioneer A-series speakers for about $87 shipped right now on Amazon.. They're pretty decent in terms of sound quality, excellent build quality, and will work great with just radio power. I guarantee it will sound a whole ton better than what you have now, and will likely last longer than the truck does.

Thanks for your help, I have definitely learned a lot. I am slowly coming out of the rabbit hole of audio setups and facing reality. I went all crazy looking at DPSs and LOC and powerful amplifiers and it was fun but it was also overwhelming. In reality I don't need "superb" sound, I would be satisfied with "fairLy good".So I have come down to reality and now I am thinking about the below setup based around the Kicker Key amp. Im thinking 45W should be plenty of power compared to stock and also the hands free DSP setup is gonna be a godsend. I think I found a decent deal on older model Infinity speakers below.

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{FRONT & TWEETER} (planning to use the passive crossover for the tweeters)Infinity REF-6522EX Shallow-Mount 6-1/2 Inch Coaxial Car Speakers ($43.99)https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FUZV7ZG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1DXN92KCKEQV4&psc=1

{BACK}Infinity REF6520CX 2-Way Component System ( With Edge-Driven Textile Tweeters) ($83.95 )https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E62D7BQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1M2AR6046TFJG&psc=1

{AMP} (The speakers are 3 ohm, though the Kicker Amp is 4 ohms, but based on other threads it should be all right)Kicker KEY180.4 ($199.99)https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206KEY1804/Kicker-KEY180-4.html

{AMP WIRING KIT} ($14.99)Crutchfield CK12https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK12/Crutchfield-CK12.html

{SPEAKER BRACKETS} (not sure if I really need these as it says that I will need to drill new holes for the screws anyway)Scosche SAC-656 Multipurpose Speaker Mounting Brackets (2 x 12.99)https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SAC656/Scosche-SAC-656-Multipurpose-Speaker-Mounting-Brackets.html

{SPEAKER HARNESS} (2 x 9.99)Metra 72-7300 Speaker Wiring Harnesseshttps://www.crutchfield.com/p_120727300/Metra-72-7300-Speaker-Wiring-Harnesses.html

{SUBWOOFER} ??(I am yet to look - though I figured I can do this in two steps)

Total $388.88 + tax

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Questions:- What do you think?- I should still be able to control the volume using the stock HU volume knob correct?
-What dampening do you recommend as a basic thing while I have the car open?

Front speakers
Rear speakers
Subwoofers
5,000 Watt Amplifier

Thanks to Amazon's amazing customer support, the two subwoofers ended up being free. The head unit allows 55 watts to each of the four interior speakers and the amplifier is solely for the subwoofers. I think the subwoofers, despite being fairly cheap, sound really nice and give a TON of thumping fun, despite me mostly leaving them on low. The dedicated volume knob for the subwoofers is located on the dashboard, attached to one of the air vents and is directly above the head unit.

When buying front speakers, be prepared to make modifications to the frame and possibly the bracket that supports the speakers themselves. I had to drill new mounting holes in each of the brackets after full removing the dashboard and everything involved just to make it so that they would fit into place... barely. As for the rears, the stock mechanism and covers for the speakers has a really small place for the bottom magnet, meaning I had to drill into the rear deck in order to mount them. If you don't want to have to do this, be sure to take note of how big the magnet is and see that it will fit in the holding bracket or modify the bracket.

The only reasonable place for the hole in the firewall was on the driver's side footwell, directly next to the steering column. The passenger's side has no easy location to drill into, and I recommend you figure this out before running all of the wires on that side just to remove them and place them on the left... like I did. Do also be warned that the rear seats are mounted in place with metal that is fairly weak and will bend very easily. My rear seats didn't return to their original position at all, but with time and a lot of strength (and friends) pushing on it as hard as possible the frame has bent mostly back into place.

Listening for yourself is best, as what sounds good can be awfully subjective... that said, these are really good for the price. I compared them directly to these kicker and polk db571 and they were far superior to the kicker and I liked them better than the polk.

A new headunit i not required but if you are worried about sound quality then you should replace it. Being the source your output is only as good as the DAC in the headunit.

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If you are doing front door speakers you should do a component set which includes a tweeter and crossover. You do not want to buy a door speaker and leave the factory tweeter. They need to be matched to work well together. So that takes care of 1 and 5 above. Rear speakers are optional and would be last on my list unless your current ones don't work and you have a lot of passengers in the back. I am not a Kicker fan as they tend to be pretty meh. I definitely would not use any aftermarket sub in a factory enclosure, they are undersized and flimsy.

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I would do in order:

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Headunit- $229

Front Doors- $150

Fastrings- $20

CLD- $65

Amp- $200

Subwoofer- $120

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Total= $785

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(((post is also for Zack V, who is building a system right now in his truck)))

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I want to focus mainly on the upper front speakers, let's say you've got 3.5's up in the dash.

But first lets get a recommendation out of the way for the 6x9's: Run them on an amp.

On the amp for the 6x9's, likely wire 4-channel amp mounted somewhere under the glovebox where it won't get kicked by someone's feet.

Then a set of speaker wires from the dash head unit and back up to the head unit to splice into the wiring harness adapter that was purchased for the head unit, this will feed the speakers their power instead of the head units own speaker output without having to run any new wiring to each speaker, which should be just fine if you are not going over 300 watts peak (or over 50 watts RMS per channel, 200 watts RMS total, or 450 watts max, peak is usually 50% over RMS, MAX is usually 200% to 250% over RMS).   So you can safely go up to a 450-watt amp easily as long as you're not running it at max full volume 100% all the time, which you won't because you'll go deaf in no time. Most newer vehicles stock wiring (although thinner) is of high enough quality to handle this with no problems (50-Watts RMS).

The amp will have to have a "high-level input" for this to work (just don't use the RCA connectors for this task unless the stock radio has the low output option for them, which isn't likely). You will likely only find the less expensive amplifiers with this option, as most setups replace the head unit first (aftermarket head units provide the low level RCA outputs designed for use with amplifiers).

As for the 3 1/2 speakers in the dash, this is going to be the hardest thing to understand but they are actually full range and set the "sound stage" for the vocal part of the music.  Putting in tweeters only (without full or mid-range) will kill your sound stage entirely and make your vocals sound very flat, especially if your 6x9's are lower in the doors by the feet.

Most importantly is to match them to the head unit, meaning you want to get the highest clean volume with the minimum wattage, for example: (and I just researched this) the best pair on the market without an amp will be something like the Infinity Reference 3022cfx 3.5" and here's why:  you get 91db of "pure, clean sound" (due to low end Bass Blocker built in so you don't blow out such a small speaker) but all that sound comes from only 25-watts of power!  (Can handle up to 75 peak if the head unit puts that much out or you want to add a second 2-channel amp) but that combined with a very high signal to noise ratio will give plenty of volume without needing an amp, and this is one of the only component speakers of this size that comes in a 3-ohm configuration which will give it some added oomf due to higher power draw at lower volumes (meant to compensate for the other speakers running on an amp). If you check out all the other offerings on the market, you'll see a lower sensitivity, higher RMS power requirement, narrower frequency range, much higher price, and in some cases ALL of these factors at once!

Others like the JL Audio C2-350x, JBL GTO329, and Rockford Fosgate Punch P132 all have very limiting factors such as high power requirements, needing a second 2-channel amp, or low signal to noise ratio, needing a second amp, or specifically the JL's may sound flat due to a limited higher frequency range (like tweeters only),  the JBL's will be drowned out by the sheer volume of the 6x9's with the 3.5" JBL's having such a high RMS power requirement they will literally sound "quiet" compared to the 6x9's without their own amp, and the Rockford Fosgate 3.5's have both a lower sensitivity and flatter frequency response. I know it's only a few hertz (85 to 120) but that to me makes all the difference on the vocal sound stage when there's a low male voice singing such as Eddie Vedder, Johnny Cash, Jim Morrison, etc... (at least to me I hear a difference, it could be psychological but that's a whole other category of postings).

Keep in mind you can spend OVER $1000 (without buying an amp) on 3 & 1/2 inch speakers & Signal Processor & Shipping chasing top quality, but this isn't the goal here today, for right now you want your price range of the whole speaker system around $500.

Of course if you're only streaming Pandora or Spotify don't bother for highest quality as the high ranges all get garbled to audio compression so there's no point, just go with whatever cheapest speakers won't give distortion at moderately high volumes.

Don't forget the wiring adapters! This was my favorite part for not having to cut the factory speaker connectors and they're usually under $3 each Example: Speaker Harness for $5.62 / pair.

I hope this helps you make a decision. Personally I like the vocals in music the most so I may sound a little passionate on the topic of setting the sound stage.

these look pretty sweet for the $$ but I really enjoyed my old infinity reference 5002ix wasn’t happy with the sound of kicker ds or ks series.

On second thought if you’re just running HU power then nvx might not work.

I'm pretty sure the factory speakers are 2ohm. Just get some 2-way jbl or infinity 6x9s at 2 or 3 ohm and you'll be good to go.

Something like

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-GX962-2-Way-Coaxial-Loudspeakers/dp/B00VBLVDXA

There's a 'prime' shipper under alternate Sellers.

These are very efficient and should work fine with existing amp. May take a couple weeks to break in (less boomy bass than factory at first).

just found all the same stuff on amazon for $100 cheaper, so the total is around $630 including all the wiring kits and stuff. should I get nicer speakers? If I do get nicer speakers should I go for the Infinity Reference 8602cfx, the Rockford Fosgate Punch P1683 or the Alpine Sps-517's? or is there something better? Looks like the Alpines would give me the most RMS wattage for that Amp at 75w each. What do you think?!

Thank you very very much! This will help me get started!

When I was doing work in my trunk of my car I noticed that the rear speakers seemed easily accessible, and I'm more interested in replacing those anyway so I think I'll start with those.

I was thinking about getting these to replace the stock ones.

Thank you again for all the information!

A lot of people are suggesting you build a pc, and I suggest you to build one too! My previous PC Build was good enough to run iRacing and, Including a BenQ monitor, cost around the £600 mark. I'll post my specs however some of the parts may be discontinued so I'll try and source similar components if they are.

Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3P

AMD (Piledriver) FX-6300 3.50GHz

ASUS GTX 750Ti

Ballistix Sport 8GB (2x4GB)

500W EVGA 80+ White Rated PSU

DVD Re-Writable(For Installing Windows)

1TB Seagate Barracuda Hard Drive

BitFenix Comrade Midi Tower


BenQ 22inch Monitor

Let me know if want any of the peripherals(Keyboard/Mouse etc) aswell

Total Cost = ~£543

You might be able to find components cheaper on different websites, especially American based ones(NewEgg).

As for assembly, I followed a tutorial from popular Battlefield YouTuber, JackFrags. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WQxr59KRto He uses old components but the build is more or less the same than the specs above.

You also may want to upgrade the Graphics Card, RAM or CPU. I recently upgraded the 750Ti to a 1060 3GB, FX 6300 to a FX 8350 and RAM by an extra 8GB. Remember, if you do upgrade anything like this, you will most likely need a bigger PSU.

Have fun building :P

Edit: As Raptord put, you should also think about getting a Ryzen CPU. But keep in mind, you would need to get a different motherboard as Ryzen uses an alternative socket to AM3+

It would be difficult to find a proper headunit with a cassette, but i can give you a few items to go by.

Headunit - DEH-150mp

(dash kit, wiring harness and antenna adapter of course)

keeping budget in mind, and that that car has 4 4x8 sized speakers, i would get two sets of these adaptors to allow for 5.25 speakers.
I personally use 2 sets of Polk db522
and for the money they sound decent.

You could leave it like that and it would be enjoyable or you can go the extra step and get something like a RF4 channel amp, with amp install kit and be right around your 500 mark.

Keep in mind that i am far from an expert. Just wanted to give you a direction.

The reference used to be a fantastic value. I'm less impressed with them now. Nvx with silk domes are the sweet spot now I think. Sold out on sonic. But here's the ones I'm speaking of

https://www.amazon.com/NVX-Coaxial-Speakers-Tweeters-VSP65/dp/B00E6ENB2A?th=1&psc=1

I am looking to replace the speakers, curious if anyone has Polk Audio DB522 DB+ Series 5.25" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZWFNKA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1DXN92KCKEQV4&psc=1

depth wise should they fit? I like the idea of having them at least be able to resist a bit of water as I know myself, I will drive with the top down in the summer even if its raining a bit.

edit: it's a 1990.

Hey Sevnfold,

So the Kicker upgrade are two sets of these (known as 77Kick10):
https://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Wrangler-Kicker-Speaker-Upgrade/dp/B0091EPN94/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486479358&sr=8-1&keywords=kicker+upgrade+jeep

And two of sets of these (77kick25ab):
https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Kicker-Speaker-Upgrade-77KICK25AB/dp/B008I2UYPI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486479517&sr=8-1&keywords=77kick25

The hardest part are the two front speakers under the dash.

I used this video from youtube to help me figure it out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQt_gmPIl-w

The other 6 speakers are pretty much plug and play and shouldn't take longer than an hour or so to get them done.

I used polyfill to give it nice deep bass tone in all the spots.

The amp was:
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46

I didn't want to install that myself so paid a place to do it. Took them about 3 hours to get it done.

I didn't want to get anything that didn't look stock so this is why I went this way. Let me know if you have anymore questions.

According to the specs for those speakers, 20 watts RMS just barely hits the minimum amp requirements. I've driven plenty of 6.5" speakers off just the head unit with great results, but these 7.7" will probably be a bit more power hungry especially if you try to turn up the bass. If you already bought them, then my thoughts would be to give them a shot with just the Clarion and see how they sound. If you do hear them clipping at higher volumes, you can either choose to turn down the bass, or add an amp.

If you don't want to add an amp, and you have not actually purchased those speakers yet, you might want to consider some slightly more standard 6.5" speakers. It would save you alot of money and sound just as good.

And if you are going through the trouble of adding an amp to get proper power and bass out of those 7.7s, why not save money by going with the 6.5s and add a sub-woofer too and get much better bass?

Rockford Fosgate R169X3 Prime 6" x 9" 3-Way Full-Range Coaxial Speaker (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HVG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a.VQDbK4F8CMZ

These will fit in the stock speaker holes in the doors. I know they look round but the factory speakers are actually 6x9 and paper garbage. These will open up the soundstage quite a bit in the Patriot. You can even find some adapters on crutchfiled to make them true plug and play. The stock speaker covers come off without removing the whole door panel and you can screw these in.

As far as loudness the stock unit will drive these at Max volume and while they will be clear you are not blowing out any windows so a new head unit would be in order for more volume.

Subs I can't help you with but I have seen a few write ups where people built one into the rear side compartment where the little cargo pocket is.

You could try and find a set of the flipdown tailgate speakers in a junkyard or on eBay. I know they can be added but you do have to replace the whole rear door panel for it so sourcing the parts from a pick and pull would most likely be the cheapest route.

Those pioneer speakers are pretty terrible. I tried a set in my Accord and was not impressed. If you just have to have Pioneer try these and if not these Rockfords sound good off of deck power. Or these Polk's also sound good. Whichever mids you choose do yourself a favor and install a small amount of sound deadener around each speaker. Also if it is in your budget get some Speaker fast rings for even more improvements.

Alright how about these? [6.5"] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0NJPS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AU0M4NIMM9WRQ)
[6x9] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P86SE8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
[Head unit] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43586_Kenwood-KDC-352U.html#tabs)
The head unit is on $15 more on sonic than amazon so i figure its worth it to have all of the free instal accessories.

Try these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018SJ4AK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HL0UAG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed those and am very happy with the results. Mine is a 2000 9-3 SE. Cheers!

This is the aftermarket pocket you'd have Best Buy install either underneath your new radio or above it (entirely dependent on preference). Best Buy installers will reuse your current brackets to join the two pieces together.

Depending on trim, Celicas came with the base 4-speaker system (2 speakers in the front doors; 2 in the rears), 6-speaker system (4 in the front doors - 2 on the bottom and 2 tweeters next to the side view mirrors; 2 in the rears), or the "premium" 8-speaker system (3 in the front doors - 2 on the bottom ("woofers"), 2 in the middle, and 2 tweeters next to the side view mirrors; 2 in the rear (mine). The "premium" set has a separate amplifier (sometimes under the seat, sometimes behind the driver side kick panel). The stock radio sends doesn't do any signal processing but sends the audio signal directly to the amplifier where it sends extra juice. If you have the ST trim, you most likely don't have the amplifier under the seat so can just plug the Pioneer wiring harness directly into the car's wiring harness.

If you're replacing the head unit, you may as well put in new speakers as well. The old ones are probably disintegrated / crackling. I bought 2 sets (4 total speakers) of these to replace the 4 in my car (the 2 on the lower door and the 2 in the rears). For the fronts, if you go with the 6.5, you might need an adapter. I used these. You might also need a wiring harness for the speakers if you don't want to disassemble the OEM ones (easy to do, but some people just don't want to do it).

Would any speaker work as long as it's a 6x9? Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O53ACRE/ref=pd_aw_vtph_107_lp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ECDTEBXVDNS6NEMKZCTM#nav-search-keywords

Also, online forums mention an optional front speaker that's a 4x10, would it be easy to install? I really want more of a surround sound instead of just rear audio

add these in the back, Use my polks up front. Then power with this or a different 100w RMS amp. Does that sound like a good plan?

For the one room I really like the Chomecast Audios. I use them with these amps and these speakers 1 2 . All work really well together

is this monitor any good? https://www.amazon.co.uk/BenQ-GW2270HM-Eye-Care-Monitor-Flicker-Free/dp/B01JIQ82OW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/261-5770464-8814137?ie=UTF8&qid=1540125041&sr=1-1&refinements=p_89%3ABenQ&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=41tPjJBqyeL&ref=plSrch

it suits my needs and is only £80 so i just wanna make sure if i should go for it or not

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Coaxial-Stereo-Speakers-TS-A1676R/dp/B0195J6DF2/ref=asc_df_B0195J6DF2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242029049757&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5767559774926063939&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1013962&hvtargid=pla-569841855104&psc=1

If you’re running off the head unit, get these! You can do better off an amp, but 110% recommend for just a speaker upgrade

I'm working with pretty limited space, but what if I installed something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JEC0YFQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A5ZRC4DPYV13E&psc=1

Along with this for the front speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/Crutchfield-150Hz-Bass-Blocker-pair/dp/B0761TYTVR/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1520125840&sr=1-1&keywords=150+hz+bass+blocker&dpID=51PSof3jEuL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch



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On a side note, I do have two of these sitting around that I could swap out in the front, if it'd be any better....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P86SQG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not to be a Pioneer fanboy, but they have a pair of 250W speakers that are pretty inexpensive

Your car is the same as mine, except mine is an automatic :(

Anyway, it looks fantastic! However, that appears to be the stock stereo, which sucked dick when it was brand new 10 years ago, so here's what I did:

Get THIS THING right here. It's utterly amazing for the price. 10 years ago it would've cost probably 700 dollars. Easy to use, hook up, and VERY customizable.

Now if you ain't scared to use an angle grinder to open up the back speaker holes, get two sets of THESE suckers. They are marine-rated, use an external crossover, and run at a stable 2.7 ohms to bump that 80-watt units power up to over 130 watts. Had them 3 years, and they are great.

You'll need THESE to get the fronts in though.

Then, I'm not a massive bass head, but THIS, with the right amount of tuning, and screwed to the pass-through door in the trunk (which eliminates a pass-through) lest me hear most of the shitty dubstep I listen to at reasonable volumes, and doesn't take up much space, and was easy to install. THIS mounted under the seat was completely inadequate for sustained bass notes and has no low end, so I sold it to a guy with a Forester that likes Iron and Wine and Mumford and Sons and stuff.

I had an enormous write-up on www.cobbforums.com, of which I was a member for over a decade, but that whole forum has been taken down. The hard part is the speaker install. Everything else is easy.

I wish I'd have done this like 8 years ago, and am glad my wife convinced me to do it instead of getting a holographic sight for my AR-15 that I use much less than twice a day during my commute (though I often wish I could use it during my commute as well).

CONGRATS!!!!

Oh, and some Hotchkiss sway bars. Wish I'd have done that long ago as well.

Then go stage 2 with an exhaust.

Then hide from the repo men because you're broke as shit now.

I have these and I've been happy with them.

The thing that sticks up in the center (Tweeter?) does touch the grill, but I haven't noticed a difference in sound because of it.

You will also need THIS adapter. BUT the tabs on the speakers will be too big for the connectors. Just trim down the tabs on the speakers a little bit (It's soft metal, I just used dikes to clip them.) and they'll slide in just fine.

I'd replace the Head Unit and speakers. Even a $69 Pioneer should rock some Decent low watt speakers. what Body style? You probally have 6.5'" in front doors and 5 1/4" in rear deck but may be 6.5" all way around...........some models had rear 6x9s

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-S3166BT-Digital-Receiver-Speaker/dp/B07MRFVKKD

BUt you may wanna check speakers 1st and maybe try New speakers on that Head unit............

this One? https://www.crutchfield.com/S-mOsu9Wbf5y2/p_020VZ409/Clarion-VZ409.html ?

https://www.amazon.com/JVC-CS-DR620-Factory-Upgrade-Speakers/dp/B01BTSYE1C

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-F1634R-200W-2-Way-Speakers/dp/B0081SRIFS

https://www.amazon.com/JVC-CS-J6930-3-Way-Coaxial-Speakers/dp/B00O53ACRE

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-G6930F-3-Way-Coaxial-Speaker/dp/B07594MRH2

when time comes for sub and amp I'd just Buy New Cheap stuff on Amazon. Right Box and Cheap subs can Hit Decent. I've Been out of Car Audio for a while - had a Budget Car Audio Shop for 3 years 2000-2003 and Installed Many a Pyramid/Legacy/Lanzar amp. Bought a Used Silverado 2 years ago and decided I wanted a lil something in it and installed a single $22 10" Sound Storm sub and $45 Pyramid amp. Surprises the Chit out of People when I tell them I got a $22 sub and then they Hear It.......

https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Storm-SS10-Single-Subwoofer/dp/B0002VM8QG

you should be able to Find multiple youtube videos on civic speaker replacement..........

Yes:
First swap your speakers out with something like these:
Kicker 77KICK10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO5QS

• get 2 sets (front and back)
  Also swap the little speakers in the dash and rollbar with 77KICK25
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008I2UYPI
  
• again get 2 sets.
  
  Then get you a decent amp. I prefer DD Audio D4.90 amp but any quality 4-channel amp at 75w per channel is fine. The D4.90 can take line-level inputs from your 130 head unit.

I replaced only the front and rear speakers last year, kept the stock radio as I only listen to mp3's via my phone. What I didn't know was the factory speakers were 20W each (blech) and that soldering would be involved. Done and happy.

I used these and they’re fantastic. Decent bass with crisp mids and highs.

Infinity REF-6522EX Shallow-Mount 6-1/2 Inch Coaxial Car Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FUZV7ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lB2lDbH0TX6S3

I am upgrading my fiance's car audio, and I've narrowed down my options. Do you think I picked something sensible for my budget of ~$300? (DIY install)


-JBL GX962 (6x9 2way)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VBLVDXA/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

-JBL GX600C (6.5 2way component set)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00U0FRU5S/ref=ox_sc_act_image_5?smid=ATBKBUXFLDT1Y&psc=1

-JVC KD-X350BTS (Head Unit)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076K2VQF8/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A1SX1R00E2EUMR&psc=1


Hopefully this setup will last a long time, and leave some headroom for a small 4 channel amp in the future. What do you think?

have recommendations? I was thinking of just using ceiling speakers. All the walls and ceilings are open right now. I know nothing about audio setups - and probably could not tell the difference in quality between a good set and a cheap set.

The house is open concept with the TV visible in the kitchen - with an elevated tray ceiling in the living room similar to this.

I am open to ideas. But the plan was to just wire in some ceiling pocket speakers. like this.

The idea was this:

• we need a server closet (running close to 30 Ethernet ports in the house) that includes a patch panel, switch, etc.
  
  
• Go ahead and add the AV components in that same closet, with the front sticking through the other side to the living room.
  
  
• Have a single HDMI run from a AVR to the TV in the front of the living room.
  
  here is a quick layout of the house.

> Infinity Reference series speakers

like these?
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Reference-8602cfx-two-way-speakers/dp/B007SNN0T0

Damn I need to get new rear speakers then. I was thinking of this pair for my 1998 Chevy Tracker, I listen to rap/bass heavy songs a lot

(New speaker) Pioneer TSA1676R 6-1/2" 3-Way Car Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014Z7ILY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Qi9dBbCN1FTHC

Do you think this is a good quality set of speakers? For reference, here are the rear speakers I have now, will the new ones at least be better?

Pioneer TS-G1645R 250W 6.5" 2-Way G-Series Coaxial Car Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NF5EQK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nl9dBbR3YM2SH

I only replaced the dash speakers and it cost $60

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P132-Punch-Speaker/dp/B001P86SP2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=fosgate+3.5&qid=1571157338&sprefix=fosgate+3.&sr=8-1

Would you happen to know if these are quality speakers as well? I've been researching some more ever since I got home and haven't seen any negatives about them.

These are the speakers I’ve been considering but it’s tough finding an amp that does 4x100 watt rms @ 4 ohm at low wattage for cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ7X5A0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9W2FAbB87ZGEB

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6ENB2A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pZ2FAbS39BTAN