Reddit mentions: The best cartridge fuses

Happy to be of service. I really like helping people realize these projects are completely doable. I spent the better part of a year researching mine and begging my electrician friends to let me pick their brains anytime we were hanging out. I'm happy to pass that on.

Yeah, if they're under a heavy charge (like an equalization cycle, which your MPPT will do every 14 days for several hours) or discharge, they vent hydrogen into the air. I should have bought AGMs. I bought FLAs. Mostly they just need checked every couple months for water levels.

I'd keep them in series like you are. I have mine setup differently because they're on a bus, and I can't control the shadows that hit them as much. So, I need them to be kind of independent. If you have a cabin, I'm sure you have a way to make sure they're always out of the shade.

Yep, that's true about the 4AWG interconnects. It's just such a short distance that it probably wouldn't cost much to make them a little beefier, and that gives you some future-proofing if you ever decide to throw an inverter on them.

You should download the manual for the MPPT before you buy it. Read it so you know what you're going to need as far as connectors and stuff.

Good point on the fuse. I forgot you were doing 150V when I typed that section. My apologies. Instead of an ANL fuse, look for a CC type fuse rated for 150VDC and 10-12A. Eaton/Bussmann makes them and they're like 5 or 6 bucks if you can find one cheap on Amazon. They're more like $25 if you have to buy from somewhere expensive like Grainger. Also, you need a special fuse box for them. They're basically what houses had before breakers.

This one might work... but it's only AC rated. Because the polarity on AC alternates 60 times a second, it's what's called "self-extinguishing." Meaning AC has a hard time to hold an arc for a long time. DC doesn't alternate, so it just burns an arc until the air-gap gets long enough that it can't sustain it. Typically you de-rate AC gear by 50% when using it for DC. This is a 600VAC fuse you'd be using for 150VDC. That's twice as much safety margin. It'll probably be fine, but I'm not an electrician or anything. Do your own research and shopping until you're comfortable.

As for that ANL fuse you found... Man, you found one of the most expensive fuses on Amazon. But, yes. That's exactly the type of thing I meant for everywhere else. Try this instead and use the leftover cash to take a couple cases of beer and a nice steak to the cabin with you. I'm using a few similar car-stereo grade ANL fuseholders in my system, but they're 400A fuses because of the big inverter.

And you only need to fuse your positive side. Negative DC should be grounded. Properly grounded. Look at your local building codes for grounding requirements. Ground moisture, soil composition, and lots of other factors affect grounding requirements.

You didn't hear this from me, but you can. If you have the 10-30 I prefer that because it has a lower amperage rating, but lacks a neutral. With a GFI pigtail at 15A you can cut off the male end and expose the black, white, green wires underneath. On your nema 10-30 male plug you land the white on the center blade, the black on one of the side blades and leave the other side blade alone. Safe off the ground.

This is not safe because 30A is available and your device is rated at 15A. If there was anything but a direct short this GFI and anything plugged into it will melt and probably catch fire.

Let's make it a little safer. Connect the white like I said, but put an inline fuse at 15A on the side blade instead of landing the hot directly. Connect the other side of the fuse holder to the black wire from the cord. Put in a 15A fuse. There should be enough room in the big plug housing for it to fit. If not have the fuse itself stick out next to the cord.

It technically still isn't 100%. While the low voltage fuse can handle 15A. If it blows it may not actually break the arc. The thing is it has a chance better than not using it and will hopefully save the gfci part of the cord on an overload.

So what are we going to do to make it safer? This is for one and only one appliance, your bike charger.

To make it safer use this fmn fuse holder with this fuse 15A and even 20A is acceptable here, the package I linked has one of each. The fuse holder will need to be crimped to the bare wire and electrical taped over the crimped ends. This will not fit in the plug housing but otherwise should be used instead of the low voltage holder.

If you have the nena 10-50 connect the white to the center flat blade, the green to the opposite bent peg, and the black to one of the side blades, ignoring the other one. Insert the fuse holders in between the gfi and the nema 10-50 plug like I described above.

All this assumes the building super left the power on those circuits. I'd test them first before you get to deep in this project.

Are you talking about this type of fuse holder? These were commonly used for glass fuses like this. It's possible the cap for a new fuse holder will fit the old one. If not, it shouldn't be too difficult to replace the whole thing.

Have not ordered any of these, but they look interesting
10A polyfuse

That square block cartridge on the bottom that has a handle. Grab the handle and pull while holding the panel so you don't rip it off the wall. It hasn't been removed in many years so it's likely to be a little tough to pull out. The use of gloves and safety glasses are recommended for doing this. It removes the main 60A buss fuses that sit in that cartridge.

The fuses you'll be removing look like this http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Bussmann-BP-NON-60-Non-Current/dp/B00004WA38

They're all one time fuses. If any are blown they'll need to be replaced. The big box stores still sell these I think.

A few thermal fuses on the hot wires is a good idea too.

https://smile.amazon.com/SF240E-SEFUSE-Cutoffs-Thermal-Degree/dp/B015675DA8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1483805336&sr=8-9&keywords=thermal+fuse

Post a pic of the fuse. I had some weird ones awhile back in a 1960's Okuma grinder that my 30+ year electrician thought I would never find but I did. Got a whole bunch of them now. Those ones were old style Coke bottle shaped. Big on one end and little on the other.

The ones I got were like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Fuji-Electric-BLA020-Bottle-600VAC/dp/B01M4L0Y2G

Well I tried a different search and think I found what I need http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-AGC-2-Acting-Listed/dp/B001PD10RI

Found it in Amazon!
Bussmann (BP/FLD-140-RP) 140 Amp Bolt-on Fusible Link with 9/16" Bolt Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009WQPKVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-T0ACbC48QZAW

An old fuse

https://www.amazon.com/Qty-Slow-Blow-Ceramic-MDA20A-MDA20/dp/B004I36FJA

(these may be smaller, but same idea)

The F is for fast blowing. They're 10bux on amazon

Here’s the links to the things I bought.
Heater cartridge
SEFUSE
HeatBlocks, Nozzles, Heatbreak
100K Thermistor

It is a fuse.

I strongly suspect this is correct. The metal part should list the rating. Here is an example of some Link

Just came across your post as my space heater burned out and I took it apart to find the same motor.

I broke out my multimeter and tracked down the problem, which might be the same for you: under the tape on the motor, there is a thermal cutoff fuse that looks like this: http://www.setfuse.com/shaiweite/assets/js/upfiles/images/Products%20logo/X.jpg It seems the wiring in the motor went above its rated temperature at some point and it blew, killing the motor entirely.

The fuse on mine is the X3 series, which is designed to blow at 125 degrees Celsius and handles 3 Amps. The specs are available here: http://www.setfuse.com/product/over-temperature-protection/thermal-cutofftco/radial-shape/x-series.html

I've managed to track down the 2A version on Amazon here, but haven't found the exact one I need just yet. Assuming your good at soldering, fixing it should just involve cutting off the old one and replacing it with a new one.

really have to wonder if this is a joke. If not here ya go https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-18251-Delay-2-Pack/dp/B002DN8EQO

If it pops again you need to get your wires checked, or you risk burning down your house.

DiversiTech 7-CRNR30 Dual Element Time Delay Fuses, 250V, 30 Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008HORU9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ivNvDb5J4Q1A8

5A

here’s a 5 pack on amazon :

It should be noted: if the fuse really did blow, there’s something else seriously wrong on the power supply. Typically, they don’t just blow and need replacement.