Reddit mentions: The best fuses

> Night image quality

What does this mean? Completely pitch dark? Driving with headlights only? or like town/city lights?

> Basically, I want a system that is set and forget (which seems to rule out the Viofo products)

VIOFO products should be fine for the most part.

> and has sensors that are capable of capturing license plates both day and night (i.e. Sony STARVIS).

Day/Night/Shadow - has more to do with the combination of parts - Lens/Sensor/Processor/Firmware/ect.

> The midrange models do not have the 1080p/60fps that I am looking for

30 FPS is industry standard, not 60 FPS.

Also more FPS, like 60 FPS does not necessarily improve video quality. It might actually decrease video quality, as Bit Rate stays the same, but you have twice as many frames = worse video quality.

> With the higher end models, I get better image quality, but I also need to pay for the feature bloat that is included.

This is not necessarily the case. You should assess video quality of the dash cams individually.

> I don't have a hard budget, and I am willing to pay more for a better product, but if possible, I would like to be around $200-300 for everything (including the hardwire kit).

Dashcam + Micro SD card + Hardwire kit = Cost

Some dash cams can be really picky about Micro SD cards, make sure to email the manufacturer for recommended cards before purchase. - Some manufacturers do not reply by the way, point of sale merchant sometimes can be more helpful.

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Best value dash cams:

• B1W ($47-55 USD) - Has wifi/cellphone app, Good video, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. - No GPS
  
  
• A119 v2 ($79-105 USD) - Excellent video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS
  
  
• A119S v2 ($80-100 USD) - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This dash cam was supposed to surpass the A119 v2 in video quality. It never did. Firmware updates were supposed to make it better video quality. Only surpasses A119 v2 in Extremely dark conditions, lesser video quality in all other conditions. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS
  
  
• A119 Pro ($90-124 USD) - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This dash cam is supposed to surpass the A119 v2 in video quality. Waiting on firmware updates. Same hope as A119S v2. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS
  
  
• Street Guardian SGGCX2 (Includes memory card and CPL filter) ($160-290 USD) - Good video quality, Good build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This dash cam is similar to the A119 variants in video quality. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS
  
  
  Versatile: Mobius ($70-100 USD) (Requires separate purchase: Power cable or hardwire kit + Micro SD card + adhesive Mount) + recommended purchase Super capacitor - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This isn't the best dash cam in the world, but it is one of the smaller ones. It was made for the drone world, and repurposed for the dash cam world. Lacks Cloud feature. - No GPS - Lacks G sensor (because it is part of the drone world)
  
  Best Value Dual Cams:
  
  
• A129 ($120-160 USD) - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. Has wifi/cellphone app. - This is a 2 Channel (Front/Rear) or (Front/interior) dashcam similar to the A119 variants. It is new, and people like it. Lacks Cloud feature. - Has GPS
  
  
• Thinkware FA200 2CH WiFi ($170-190 USD)
  
  
• BlackVue DR590W 2CH WiFi ($230-260 USD)
  
  Last year's Flagship Dual Cams:
  
  
• BlackSys Ch-200 2CH ($260-300 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Lacks Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - Similar to the BlackSys CH-100B 2CH, with improved video quality. - Has GPS
  
  
• BlackVue DR750S 2CH ($367-510 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Has Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - Improved video quality over the BlackVue DR650S 2CH, added partitioned normal/parking recording. - Has GPS
  
  
• Thinkware F800 Pro 2CH ($350-460 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Has Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - The 2nd of the Thinkware Cloud dash cams. - Has GPS
  
  This year's Flagship Dual Cams:
  
  
• BlackSys CH-300 2CH ($290 USD)
  
  
• Street Guardian SG9663DC (Includes memory card and CPL filter) ($280-490 USD) - Similar to the A129 2CH dash cam, missing wifi/cellphone app. - Has GPS
  
  
• BlackVue DR900S 2CH (4K) ($470-591 USD) - Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Excellent video quality. Has wifi/cellphone app. Has Cloud feature. Has partitioned normal/Parking recording. - One of the few dash cams that is similar/surpasses the A119 v2. - Has GPS
  
  
• Thinkware Q800PRO 2K QHD ($400-490 USD)
  
  Suggested Hardwire kits:
  
  
• Cheap hardwire kit ($5-15 USD)
  
  
• In between hardwire kits ($15 USD)
  
  
• Expensive Hardwire kit ($24-27 USD)
  
  Things that make hardwiring easier:
  
  
• Add A Fuse/Tap a fuse ($1-10 USD) (Mini, Mini Low profile very common) (Micro 2, Micro 3, ATO significantly less common.) (5 Amp Fuse 2nd slot. Purchasable at any automotive store. ($1-5 USD))
  
  
• All Fuses, and Tap a fuses should match your vehicle:
  
  Hardwire = Generally to the fuse box, always on fuse.
  
  
• Low voltage cut off feature (Adjustable) Voltage/Timer based. ($24 USD) - Generally 3 wire hardwire kits. (Battery = Power dash cam = Always on fuse, ACC = Detect vehicle is on/off = Ignition only fuse, GND = Ground wire to unpainted bolt = Completes the circuit in a DC system.)
  
  
• Low voltage cut off feature (Preset/Not Adjustable) Voltage based. ($5-13 USD) - Make sure there is an inline fuse in this type of kit, many times they cheap out. - Generally 2 wire hardwire kits. (2 options: Option A) Positive wire = Ignition only fuse = No parking mode, GND = Ground wire to unpainted bolt = Completes the circuit in a DC system. Option B) Positive wire = Always on fuse = Parking mode enabled.)
  
  
• Low voltage cut off feature (Adjustable) Voltage only. ($15 USD) - Generally 15 ish, and they are 3 wire hardwire kits. (Battery = Power dash cam = Always on fuse, ACC = Detect vehicle is on/off = Ignition only fuse, GND = Ground wire to unpainted bolt = Completes the circuit in a DC system.)
  
  ---
  
  For more information visit /r/dashcam's wiki page: https://www.reddit.com/r/Dashcam/wiki/index

****Do any of this at your own risk or hire a professional to do it for you.***

Here are the parts I ordered to put mine together. I'm posting this bc of PMs.

Mobius or [Cheaper Mobius but longer wait from China] (http://www.banggood.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-HD-Mini-Sports-Camera-Wide-Angle-Edition-p-917817.html) I wanted the Wide Angle Lens for a better shot

Capacitor You don't want the battery sitting in the sun. A capacitor can handle it. So you replace the battery completely with this capacitor

Windshield Mount My mobius came with a mounting bracket that fits on this mount. The mount itself is very small, but the 3M sticker is very strong.

Hardwire Kit When hard wiring this in to the car via fuse box, this knocks the voltage down from 12v to 5v, which is what the camera needs. I used some wire strippers to expose about 5" of the red and black cables. Then stripped about an inch off each cable to expose the actual wire. The red wire goes in to the add-a-circuit mentioned below, then you crimp it closed with pliers (wasn't super easy, I must be weak). You partially unscrew a metal bolt that is attached to the metal car frame as a ground ( I used the one on top of my fuse box).

USB to Mini-USB This connects from the hardwire kit to the camera or 90 degree elbow mentioned next, for a better angle. If you are setting up the auto record when external power is on, which is what you want to do for a dash cam, you need to cut a piece of electrical tape width-wise and cover the two middle pins inside the USB cable. This is because the two middle pins (2 and 3) are data pins. Leaving those exposed makes the camera think its connected to a computer and will only do data transferring. By covering them, it only get power from pins 1 and 4 and doesn't think it's connected to a computer and will actually record.

Right Angle Mini-USB to Mini-USB Adapted This just helped keep the USB cable from sticking out too much (better angle)

Add-a-circuit This is the ATO (bigger fuse), but I ended up using the ATM (Mini) because my car has both and the fuse I wanted to use ended up being a Mini. It'd be best to look through your fuse diagram and find something non-vital (meaning don't tap in to a fuse that controls ABS or airbags, etc) and switchable (meaning it only comes on when the car turns on. You don't want the camera running 24/7), figure out what type of fuse it is, and buy that size. I ended up getting my new add-a-circuit (Littlefuse) from Oreilly auto parts for $6.99 and it came with 3, 4, 7.5, and 10A fuses. Also take note of the amperage (Never use a higher amp fuse than your add-a-circuit supports because the wire gauge may not support it and melt/burn. When adding the circuit, I removed the original fuse from the fuse box, a 10A fuse and put it the first slot(my add-a-circuit supports up to 10A) and for the 2nd slot, I used a 3A fuse because the camera and radar don't draw much. You don't want to use a higher amp fuse than necessary. Also, in my car 2011 JettaSportwagen, the add-a-circuit points down or it doesn't work. Make sure it's plugged in the correct direction or it won't do anything

32GB MicroSD Card Works fine, just make sure to format it through the camera.

Unofficial but awesome Mobius Configuration Tool Use the tooltips(hover over each option) to figure out what each things does. I set mine to autorecord when external power or the button are pushed.


You can find a lot of info here: dashcamtalk.com


To summarize the connections are:

Choose a fuse from your car's fuse diagram (non-essential and switchable), pull it, place it in the correct slot of the add-a-circuit (don't go to higher amps than is supported), plug in a fuse from the add-a-circuit kit in to the other slot to protect your camera (I used a 3A), strip the hardwire kit's cables mentioned above, put the red cable (+) from the hard wire kit in the the red end of the add-a-circuit and crimp it closed, attach the black cable (-) to a screw attached to the metal car frame, tape the two middle pins (2 and 3) in the USB cable with electrical tape, plug the USB in to the female USB on the hardwire kit, run the USB cable from the fuse box around the edges of your cars trim, up by the rearview mirror, attach the right-angle mini-usb adapter, choose where you want to mount the camera (make sure to check using the USB plugged in and camera mounted to the mount, in case it bumps the rearview mirror) (I held it on the windshield about where I thought I wanted it (to behind and to the right of the rearview mirror and took some test footage, watched it on a computer, decided it looked ok, pulled the sticker cover and attached it), clean your windshield with glass cleaner, attach the mount.

Happy to be of service. I really like helping people realize these projects are completely doable. I spent the better part of a year researching mine and begging my electrician friends to let me pick their brains anytime we were hanging out. I'm happy to pass that on.

Yeah, if they're under a heavy charge (like an equalization cycle, which your MPPT will do every 14 days for several hours) or discharge, they vent hydrogen into the air. I should have bought AGMs. I bought FLAs. Mostly they just need checked every couple months for water levels.

I'd keep them in series like you are. I have mine setup differently because they're on a bus, and I can't control the shadows that hit them as much. So, I need them to be kind of independent. If you have a cabin, I'm sure you have a way to make sure they're always out of the shade.

Yep, that's true about the 4AWG interconnects. It's just such a short distance that it probably wouldn't cost much to make them a little beefier, and that gives you some future-proofing if you ever decide to throw an inverter on them.

You should download the manual for the MPPT before you buy it. Read it so you know what you're going to need as far as connectors and stuff.

Good point on the fuse. I forgot you were doing 150V when I typed that section. My apologies. Instead of an ANL fuse, look for a CC type fuse rated for 150VDC and 10-12A. Eaton/Bussmann makes them and they're like 5 or 6 bucks if you can find one cheap on Amazon. They're more like $25 if you have to buy from somewhere expensive like Grainger. Also, you need a special fuse box for them. They're basically what houses had before breakers.

This one might work... but it's only AC rated. Because the polarity on AC alternates 60 times a second, it's what's called "self-extinguishing." Meaning AC has a hard time to hold an arc for a long time. DC doesn't alternate, so it just burns an arc until the air-gap gets long enough that it can't sustain it. Typically you de-rate AC gear by 50% when using it for DC. This is a 600VAC fuse you'd be using for 150VDC. That's twice as much safety margin. It'll probably be fine, but I'm not an electrician or anything. Do your own research and shopping until you're comfortable.

As for that ANL fuse you found... Man, you found one of the most expensive fuses on Amazon. But, yes. That's exactly the type of thing I meant for everywhere else. Try this instead and use the leftover cash to take a couple cases of beer and a nice steak to the cabin with you. I'm using a few similar car-stereo grade ANL fuseholders in my system, but they're 400A fuses because of the big inverter.

And you only need to fuse your positive side. Negative DC should be grounded. Properly grounded. Look at your local building codes for grounding requirements. Ground moisture, soil composition, and lots of other factors affect grounding requirements.

First off thank you for the time you put into your response, that was great and much appreciated.

I plan to be around enough that I COULD maintain the FLA batteries, but I have no idea how much effort that is. Also, I've been thinking of stashing them under a kitchen counter, and I think I read that gassing is an issue. So maybe the AGMs are the way to go.

I thought I'd put the 4 panels in series to keep the amperage down on the run over to the charge controller, but do you think it would be more advantageous to do 2 parallel series of 2 panels?

No huge loads on this system, so if 4AWG is good between the charge controller to the batteries, it certainly stands to reason that 4AWG would be good between the batteries also. I see now that I can buy 4 AWG battery cables with the right ends, but do I need any special connectors to attach a bare end of cable to the controller?

As for the fuses, I found this guy that can go between the MMPT and batteries, but wouldn't the voltage be too high coming into the MMPT for this type of fuse?

Thanks!

I have had the 9500ix for 4+ years now and it's been working pretty well. It's saved me from at least 4-5 tickets. As /u/13489194 stated below though, there are newer models out there that work better and are worth a few extra bucks. What I've noticed in the past few years is a very annoying increase in false positives with all the new cars that have side radar blind spot detection.

I mounted mine up on the top of the windshield a few inches below the headliner and to the right of the rearview mirror. It doesn't obstruct my view, and only prevents the passenger sunshade from fully opening a bit.

What you want to do is get a hardwire cable, a tap-a-fuse, and a trim tool and just gently pull on the trim and use the plastic trim tool (aka bone tool) to push the wire in behind the trim, down the A-pillar, and then into the fuse box. Not sure about the S6, but on my A5, it made it easier getting it down the A pillar to remove the "Airbag" plastic cover piece that covers up a Torx screw, and slightly unscrew the cover over the pillar so you can more easily fish it in.

Hardwire that bad boy into a fuse that is only on when the car's ignition is on, such as the Homelink Garage door opening or something. I dunno about the S6, but on my A5 there are fuse panels on both the passenger and driver's side. I put mine on the driver's side so that I can mount the little mute button assembly w/ the included velcro right below the headlight switch assembly. I can easily and quickly mute it as well as see the flashing light while driving.

Some stuff I'd recommend:

Escort Max 360 Detector

Hardwire adapter unit (no need for the bluetooth one as the Max has bluetooth built into it now)

Tape a fuse

Trim tools to fish the wire in

Other common tools you'll need would be a screwdriver, Wire Crimper/Stripper, and a socket to punch down the ground connection in the fuse panel.

Also, you'll want to be running the Waze application when driving as it will notify you of police locations reported by users. That's saved me a lot, especially when they aren't using radar or are using laser.

Here's a list and example found on amazon for all the major parts. I'll also include a wiring diagram at the end.

Solar Panel $169.99 - 100W Flexible & Thin

Solar Cable $18.99 - 20ft with male and female heads (cut in half for + & -)

[Charge Controller]
(https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019QSX0CG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $34.99 - 30A gives you room to add more panels

Battery $160 - 100Ah AGM will provide enough power depending on fridge but requires no maintenance

Fuse Panel $35 - 6 circuits with negative and cover

12V Sockets $6 - Get some of these for plugging in appliances and phones. You can buy 12V adapters for almost any electronic besides most kitchen appliances.

Pick up some 10 gauge stranded wire from your local hardware store (home depot) to wire the battery and fuse panel to the charge controller. You shouldn't need much since you want the battery as close as possible to the controller. You can buy smaller wire (16 or 18 guage) for wiring outlets/appliances to the fuse panel. 50ft of that should be fine unless you want multiple outlets on the other side of the van.

You'll also need some ATC blade fuses for your fuse panel. You can buy these at a local auto parts store pretty cheap. 15 amps should be enough than anything you'll be pulling.

To connect the wire ends to the battery and fuse panel you will need these wire terminals for the corresponding wire guages you are using. Along with these female terminals to connect to the 12V sockets. All of these can be found at your local auto parts store for cheap sometimes all together in a kit.

You'll also want a pair of wire strippers/crimper for wiring.

This is the best wiring diagram I can find. Most are so overcomplicated. This diagram does not show the fuse panel but you can see the empty slots on the far right of the charge controller where you insert the wiring for that, it's called the "load." This diagram also shows an inverter which is something I didn't go into because you will only need that if you HAVE to run a 110V appliance. I know you mentioned a kettle but maybe you could just install a gas stove in your van and use that to heat water? That's what we use :) Installing the inverter should be pretty straight forward though if you need it but remember you will waste energy going from 12v to 110v so 12v is more efficient.

Hope this can help you (and maybe others) in some way. I plan on making a more in depth version of this guide in the near future along with a video but finding the time has been difficult! Let me know any more questions you have :D

Heh, sorry. You need to connect the red wire to a 12volt DC power source (more on that in a minute) and the black to "ground" (any metal part of the car. Usually a screw on the body somewhere).

The power is normally supplied by the lighter adapter, but as you can imagine, there is a lot of electricity flowing around your car. The simplest solution is to get a properly sized fuse tap (there are 2-3 different sizes of fuses commonly used so you have to make sure you get the right one for your car). You remove a fuse (for something that gets power only when the car is on, like the radio) from the fuse box under the steering wheel, plug in the tap and add the fuse back in on top.

You can then crimp the red wire of the direct connect into the fuse tap and you have power. Find something metal to screw the black wire to, and that recreates what the lighter plug does without taking up the space in the lighter.

As far as how to do it in the back of a car, you will have to pull some interior body panels off to get access, but stuff like license plate lights are usually a great place to get a switched source of power.

To get power from a wire that's already in place, you just need one (not the 100 in the link) of these instead of a fuse tap. You slide one end over the existing wire, plug the new wire you want spliced into the other end, then use pliers and snap the cover down, which automatically splices the wire for you.

Hope that's clearer.

You didn't hear this from me, but you can. If you have the 10-30 I prefer that because it has a lower amperage rating, but lacks a neutral. With a GFI pigtail at 15A you can cut off the male end and expose the black, white, green wires underneath. On your nema 10-30 male plug you land the white on the center blade, the black on one of the side blades and leave the other side blade alone. Safe off the ground.

This is not safe because 30A is available and your device is rated at 15A. If there was anything but a direct short this GFI and anything plugged into it will melt and probably catch fire.

Let's make it a little safer. Connect the white like I said, but put an inline fuse at 15A on the side blade instead of landing the hot directly. Connect the other side of the fuse holder to the black wire from the cord. Put in a 15A fuse. There should be enough room in the big plug housing for it to fit. If not have the fuse itself stick out next to the cord.

It technically still isn't 100%. While the low voltage fuse can handle 15A. If it blows it may not actually break the arc. The thing is it has a chance better than not using it and will hopefully save the gfci part of the cord on an overload.

So what are we going to do to make it safer? This is for one and only one appliance, your bike charger.

To make it safer use this fmn fuse holder with this fuse 15A and even 20A is acceptable here, the package I linked has one of each. The fuse holder will need to be crimped to the bare wire and electrical taped over the crimped ends. This will not fit in the plug housing but otherwise should be used instead of the low voltage holder.

If you have the nena 10-50 connect the white to the center flat blade, the green to the opposite bent peg, and the black to one of the side blades, ignoring the other one. Insert the fuse holders in between the gfi and the nema 10-50 plug like I described above.

All this assumes the building super left the power on those circuits. I'd test them first before you get to deep in this project.

You know, I hadn't looked yet. I was hoping to find a panel, or perhaps snap together receptacles, but on initial searching the best I found was something like this and I'd have to make the panel part myself.

Thanks for renewing my interest in that regard.

The sensor splices are on the ground circuit for the sensors on the intake and can be found under the loom on the firewall. Search Cruiser 54's Renix tips for a thorough explanation.

The vacuum disconnect axle is arguably stronger in the tube and control arm bracket, but it has a three piece axle in that side. You can remove the shifter and put a one piece shaft back in, or just unplug it and lock the shaft in the engaged position. I opted to replace the whole axle, primarily on account of it not coming with one and I had a later non disconnect axle to put in it. Thus, I removed the vacuum system associated with it.

How I did the wiring on mine:

Install the angel eyes themselves per instructions. Run the wiring so everything leads to the relay being mounted in the bin at the right rear of the engine bay. Early models have the DSC/ABS module there, later models have just an empty bin.

Use the following image of the relay as a guide to where you lead the wires. The Pinout will be the most useful part.

http://i.imgur.com/Yrm9vxU.jpg

30 - Angel eye positive wire

87A - To footwell light

87 - To positive battery terminal

85 - Trigger wire

86 - Ground

Most instructions have you running the trigger wire to the DME and here's where I differ. In the bin where you mount the relay you'll see a grommet with a rubber plug on the firewall side. Carefully cut a little "+" into that and feed the trigger wire and the one that goes to the footwell light through there. (See link at the bottom for a picture showing it)

Inside the car you're now going to work in/under/behind the glove compartment. With a flashlight look for where those wires you poked through the grommet came in and pull them through. Tap the footwell wire into the positive lead to a footwell light. The other one will share a connection with a circuit in the fuse panel. You want to use a slot that is on only when the ignition is in the "on" position, and is off when it's in "accessory" or "off". You can use a multimeter or a test light to confirm this. There should be several options. Now you need an "add-a-circuit" adapter like the link below. Use that to connect to the trigger lead. Be sure to use the fuse with the same rating as the one the angel eye wiring harness came with.

http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427662052&sr=8-1&keywords=car+add+on+fuse

The link below is to a great step-by-step that I modified, so use it for the pictures and most individual steps, just on its Step 4, run the trigger to the fuse panel instead of the ECU accessory wire. These instructions also don't include step-by-step for running the other wire to the footwell light for the fade-on when you unlock and fade-off when you lock your car. It does show the grommet you'll be slicing to get the wires to the cabin though.

http://www.fastm.com/m3/angeleyes_orionv2.html

Look at the wire and see if it has writing on it, it should. Try to see if there "AWG" followed by number, like "AWG 16". that's the wire gauge. If it says AWG 18, it's really too thin. I'm willing to bet it is, because the wire really shouldn't be getting warm at all. I changed my heatbed wire to 16 gauge (even though 14g is preferable, and it stays cold. If your wires are more than a couple feet, definitely go for 14 or 15 gauge, but 16 should honestly be fine.

The reason it's warm is because the wires have too much resistance, causing them to heat up. Thicker wire will have less resistance.

Also, your wire may be 16 gauge, but if it's aluminum instead of copper, it's as good as 18g copper, because aluminum only has I think 60 or 70% the ampacity of copper.

If you're looking into thermal fuses and fire safety, don't get into expensive sprinkler system, arduino control smoke alarms, whatever. There was recently a popular thread here where people went way overboard. I know I'm probably going to get downvoted for saying that, but whatever.

You're thinking correctly. You jsut need thermal fuses.

Get thermal fuses and/or Bi-metal disc fuses.

Get a few of them. 120C should be sufficient, maybe get a single 140C for the bed if you want breathing room. There's really no part of your printer other than the hotend that should ever get that hot.

Wire them in series with power wires. Basically, just get some heatshrink tubing, sever a power wire going to the heatbed, a wire going to the mosfet, a wire going to the mainboard, etc. And leave some slack. Then use kapton tape for the bed, and anything else for the other ones, and attach the fuse to the surface you want it protecting. So if you put the fuse on let's say your mosfet and for whatever reason it messes up and starts to heat up like crazy, it will trip the fuse and cut power the second it reaches 120C.

Obviously, you should have smoke detectors close by, but this will help in 99% of overheating issues, which if everything else is copacetic, should be incredibly rare. And by everything else I mean every wire connector is attached securely and properly, every wire has strain relief so you don't have wires pulling on anything, they should have slack.

Thank you so much for your reply! This is exactly the type of response I was looking for! The size was a worry to me, but I felt it was a bit over exaggerated since it was often compared to the A118C which just has a sleeker look on the window. I think you confirmed that for me. As far as the reviews I was referring to: There were several on amazon that said they received a free device in order to review it, and they all had 5 stars which made me suspicious of an inflated review. Also some of the reviews would mention the driver assistance prompts like they were great, even though I have received the overwhelming opinion that it sucks (but I can just turn it off). This just made me suspicious as well.

I think I am leaning more towards the Yi dash cam, since it seems to offer more features and be a little better quality image. Although a bit more obvious, I think you proved it is still quite small. I think I will just risk it on the battery issue and call it a lesson learned if it screws me over. It rarely exceeds 100F where I live.

Anything else you think I should know before purchasing the Yi? I will probably purchase with the link in the original post text if that matters.

Also, since you seem quite knowledgeable about it, I also had a question about hard wiring to my fuse box (since I only have one cigarette lighter.) If you don't know the answer to this, it is fine I just figured I would try. I plan on buying this and this to hard wire it. Would this be acceptable and all I would need? Also is there another way to wire it without going through the fuse box, because then I won't be able to put the cover back on the fuse box (small issue but still) that also does not involve the cigarette lighter. Again, if this is not your specialty, it is fine.

Again, thank you so much for your detailed reply. It really helped me make my decision!

With an older bike like that, who knows if any manufacturers rated amperage output is going to be accurate anymore. This is what I did on my 95 CB1000 when I got it all wired up.

The first thing you're going to want to do, before you start adding any electronics at all, is make sure that your rectifier/regulator is doing what it's supposed to. The best way to test that is use a voltmeter to measure the voltage across the battery terminals when the bike is off. Ideally, you should see a voltage greater than or equal to 12.6 volts. Next, start the bike, and measure voltage at the terminals again. You should see a voltage somewhere right around 14 volts plus or minus a couple tenths of a volt. If your "running" voltage is lower than this, you may want to look at the health of your rectifier/regulator.

At this point, if everything looks good, you can start adding on to the bike! To start, you will need a "sense" wire to tell when the bike is running, a fused connection back to the battery terminals so that if something fails, your bike doesn't catch on fire, and a way to distribute the power to multiple devices. There are a bunch of great aftermarket devices that do all this in one package, but they are generally a bit expensive. If you make something yourself, please make sure you do lots of research so you don't burn your bike down. Hell, you should probably do research anyways.

Just make sure that whatever you are adding, you're not causing the running voltage of the bike to drop too far below 14, which would signify the regulator isn't able to keep you fully supplied. Even if everything looks good at first, extended riding may expose failures or weakness as circuits heat up, heatsinks saturate, and old, soft wiring insulation decides it doesn't want to insulate quite so well anymore. Just make sure that you check your system voltage every once in a while, and you should be fine. You could probably mount something like this on your handlebars if you're particularly paranoid

Happy farkling, and feel free to ask questions!

It's the same one I've bought except for mine being for 220V. You should be around 6 A at 110 V, so your SSR should handle that without a trouble. Keenovo recommended me to use a fuse for around 165 Celcius, so unless you want your bed to go hotter than that I'd stick to that. They also mentioned the maximum suggested temp for their heater being 233, but I really wouldn't go there.

At a quick glance, found this guy on amazon https://www.amazon.com/THERMODISC-G4A01167C-FUSE-THERMAL-pieces/dp/B011CQKYEW. But there are a lot of 10 amp 250V fuses in that form factor with different temperature ratings out there, so just pick up any at your favourite electronics vendor. It's a bit tricky to solder them and you should insulate it pretty well, but in my case I felt it was worth it just for the peace of mind.

I haven't gotten any rear cams yet, but I've got this cam up front in both cars (buy it directly from Spy Tec, it's also on Amazon but you might get a counterfeit), I'd recommend a capacitor cam in hot climates (a battery will deteriorate in the heat, the capacitor gives it just enough power to save the video when shutting down). I've got it mounted to the rear view mirror so it's less visible and won't fall off, and I've got it hardwired into my fuse box (tuck the wire up under the headliner along the top of the windshield, run it down the pillar, and use an add-a-fuse like this to connect it to a switched (only on when the car is on) fuse like a cigarette lighter).

I don't know what the grommet looks like through the firewall, but if there's room, you may try using a piece of safety wire or similar and pushing it through next to the wire loom, then make a loop on the end and pull your wire back through. That's what I've done in the past for similar applications.

For the fuse and ground, I know that many people have used Add-A-Circuit kits for this sort of thing. They sell them on Amazon or at any auto parts store. That's probably your best bet. I much prefer not to have to cut and splice factory wiring whenever possible.

I couldn't answer all your questions, but I hope that's at least a start. You may want to head over to MSF and see what others have done. Here's a thread for a similar install that I found after a quick search. Looks like OP used the hole for the hood release cable through the firewall and tapped into the BPV line for the pressure reading.

12 volt switches are dirt cheap. All you need is a bit of plywood, a drill, electrical cables, some soldering skill and the switches themselves.

You can buy 10-packs of switches for 10 bucks. Higher quality ones are a few bucks each, but probably worth it for reliability.

Something like (but not necessarily exactly this):

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Toggle-Flick-Switch-Light/dp/B015DOGAV0/

If you want indicators that a circuit is on that's easy too (a light that goes on when it's active) - LED lights that are ready to add to a panel are also cheap. Though you can choose what level of quality you want to go for. These look decent (possibly too bright).

https://www.amazon.com/PLUG-N-PLAY-Instrument-Indicator-Aluminum-Speedometer/dp/B01F2GSZRG/

If you want a fuse on every circuit the way that panel you linked to has, you can buy fuse holders also.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Panel-Mount-Holder-Screw/dp/B0087YASSA for example.

OMG! How flippin' old is your house? I haven't seen one of those in forty years.

Congratulations. You are the proud owner of a Bussman receptacle and fuse holder. Man, that is seriously old school. Like 1930's old.

Believe it or not, you can still buy one today:

http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Bussmann-BP-SRU-Receptacle-Holder/dp/B00004WA3I

The reason it's not working is that your microwave is drawing more power than the fuse could handle. Chances are that the wiring leading to that outlet is undersized, at least by today's standards. I urge you; no, I STRONGLY urge you not to pull out the outlet and replace it with a new one. I am worried that if I am correct, your microwave could overheat the wiring in that circuit. Trust me on this........overheating wires in an old house will never result in a good outcome.

If I am correct about what caused the outlet to shut down, you should pull a new circuit into the kitchen for your microwave. It is the safe way to solve your problem.

Hey, I was wondering if it would be possible to use an adapter that turns one fuse into two rather than splicing the cable?

If not, do you think something like this would work?

Also, is this what you mean by testing light?

If any of these parts aren't correct, could you send me amazon links for the correct parts because I'm trying to use up my gift cards.

I really appreciate your help and I'll try to order the right parts as soon as I get the O.K. from you.

A quick overview of the install of my ThinkWare F750 and Hardwired kit in the Crosstrek.


http://imgur.com/a/Eo2bm


Camera (bought at BestBuy price matched Amazon):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VA5S9PW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_aztlxbR4ZTV0S


Hardwire Kit (Bought at BestBuy):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NC062E8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_aAtlxbWWAME40


I used a Fuse Vampire Tap so that I had flexible options for power. In addition I did not wire to a constant constant 12v system since I don't want to use the parking feature. If you want to use this, but two fuse taps. Mine came from Blain's, you can get them on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0MWPXU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_lJtlxb74S99ZS


Use this video to learn how to remove the A Pillar:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=qt-hhesUlSI

1. Remove the A Pillar and fuse box cover.
   
   
   
2. Mount the camera where you want it, I chose this location because from the driver seat i cannot see it, but it's easy to access the buttons. In reality I should have gone a bit higher on the dots to hide it a bit, but I'll get some non douchey vinyl to cover up the sticky pad. With this camera I used the wifi app to view the image and be sure it was where I wanted it.
   
   
   
3. Now plug the power into the camera and start running it. I have the dimming mirror and by sliding the wire cover towards the front of the car it opened up and I ran the cable up that.
   
   
4. As you go just tuck the wire up into the seam at the headliner. I wore nitrile gloves to try and keep from smudging my window. It takes a bit of pressure, but the wire just sort of pops in and stays.
   
   
   
5. When you get to the corner you need to give it something to hang on. This kit came with sticky wire clips and I put one up there, you can see in two of the pictures.
   
   
   
6. As you run it down the A Pillar keep it from interfering with the airbag, I tucked it behind the wore that I assume is for the mirror.
   
   
   
7. At the bottom of the pillar I pushed a wire fish up from the fuse box (coat hanger) and hooked the wire then pulled it through to the fuse panel area. At the corner I used another Sticky wire clip to hold it in place. You can see this in a picture.
   
   
   
8. At the fuse box I used the Fuse Tap off the Audio/Nav fuse since its switched power. If you want to use parking mode add a second fuse tap to a constant power fuse and connect that to the appropriate wire. Pop out the original fuse, push the tap in place and put fuses in the spaces, the ones linked above have a fuse for the stock power feed and a separate one for the tap wire.
   
   
   
9. For the ground wire I used a 10mm socket to loosen the bolt behind the hold release and hooked the ground wire to this.
   
   
   
10. I then bundled the spare cable (2-3 feet maybe) and tucked it to the left of the fuse panel.
    
    
11. Turn the key on and make sure it works.
    
    
    
12. Reassemble the A Pillar, I found that putting the pillar in place first, and the tweeter cover second which made every thing line up properly.
    
    
    
13. Connect to the camera and set as you see fit. I turned the volume off, and Lane warning/car in front warnings off.
    
    

If you get one, also get the TAP adapter, and the Hardwire kit. They're pretty cheap.

Using this, I ran the hardwire kit up behind the rear view mirror, behind the headliner, down the plastic on the A pillar, and back behind the kickpanel and into the fuse box with the TAP adapter. I can't remember which fuse I used without looking but it's wired into one where the camera automatically comes on whenever the accessory is active or the truck is running. When I turn off the truck, the camera turns off, automatically. I don't have to do anything except clear off the saved videos once every 6 months or so.

I've got the old version of that camera and it's very good. Importantly for me, it's small enough to fit behind my rear view mirror and has a really nice small mounting bracket with tape rather than a huge suction cup that will fall off every other week.

My power outlet is inconveniently placed, so I used add a circuit to hard wire it into my fuse box.

The module plugs into the antenna jack on the PCM. The plug types are different so that's where the adapters come in. There is a stick on button to turn it on and off and control calls and audio track. You tune the radio to a specific station and hold the button to turn on the module and go into BT mode. Hold the button to turn it off if you want to listen to the radio.

Here is a good DIY guide. Pretty easy, even for a dunce like me. If you don't want to splice the power to your PCM harness, you can get a fuse doubler to plug into the fuse box in the driver's side footwell. For the mic, I just wedged it in the corner of the dome light frame piece and ran the cable along the headliner and around the passenger side, behind the glove box, and into the rear of the center console. You can tuck the wire into the passenger door rubber molding with a plastic card so it's hidden and tight.

/r/porsche thread

Ya, it's fairly easy. Use a company like Sonicelectronix.com, who have the best prices and often include free accessories for the install like wiring harnesses dash kits and antenna adapters.

The two things you will need to be aware of is that you will need the "keys" to get the radio out. They don't tend to come with the gear but you can usually take your car to your local shop and they will have keys and remove it for a few bucks. The next thing, to get an accessory wire, you must run a fusetap over to the fuse box on the driver side and tap into something that turns on and off with the car, like wipers.

I attempted this.. In my experience its not possible. Instead i fuse-tapped from the internal fuse box an accessory fuse, so when the car turns on the lights are on.

During the day they unfortunately are on.. but you will not notice them unless they are super bright.

Cant remember what fuse i used... Think it was the 11th position or 9th position fuse (just test both) here

This is the [tap] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K17A2E6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and [lights] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pc-Red-LED-Under-Dash-Kit-Interior-Glow-Lights/271823827548?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649) i used, i also grabbed 20 gauge wire from home depot. (You will need to know how to wire them together)

Thank you! This is really helpful for me. I think I'll go with your approach of using a 12v socket USB adapter (most likely in the glove box); I don't want to risk a shoddy cable giving me problems when it's really hot/cold.

I'm relatively inexperienced when it comes to electronics/car customization, so pardon any trivial questions.

• Is a fuse tap required if there is a vacant fuse slot in the fuse box?
  
• How can I identify the correct fuse slot/amperage that I need for the dashcam (or any accessory for that matter)?
  
• Is it worth purchasing a pry tool set for running the wires?
  
• Assuming I use an "always on" fuse slot (so I'm able to use parking mode on the dashcam), is there concern that it could drain the battery?
  
• If so, are there in-line protective devices that would prevent this, or is this an altogether incredibly unlikely event? (something like this?)
  
  Shopping List:
  
  
• Fuse tap
  
  
• 12v Socket Plug
  
  
• Anker 2port USB car charger
  
  
• 15ft micro USB to USB cable

Start with knowing the wattage of your largest loads. If you want a hot plate, that's fine, but know that they require approx. 1500 watts, so your inverter will need to be at least that big. Go higher if you're unsure.

Once you know the wattage of your inverter, you can figure out wire sizes based on what amp draw it will have at 12 VDC input. Typical inverters have an efficiency of 90%, so (from our example) 1650 watts divided by 12 volts is 137.5 amps. Based on this calculator at 10 feet of cable length, I would not go smaller than 2 AWG. You should put a 150 amp fuse inline between the battery and the inverter, and use the correct fuse holder and crimp-on lugs, or solder the lugs if you can.

Use power strips with internal circuit breakers and extension cords for distribution on the AC side - it's fast, easy, and acceptable. Just make sure your combined wattages never go over the rating of your inverter.

Charging the second battery is a bit tricky with solenoids and switches unless you get a battery isolator to put between the alternator and your second battery. It's just a giant diode with lugs.

RVs do this kind of thing all the time, you should be able to google for better wiring diagrams than you have. (No offense, but it was difficult to follow.)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0MWPXU

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C3DQRY0

These are the products I used to wire in my dash cam. So far I've had no issues with either. Also, I did a write up on installing one in my Elantra, but it should be about the same general steps for wiring up one in the Aveo as well:
http://imgur.com/a/MSLpz

Hope it helps!

Also, I installed the fuse tap where the fuse for the 12V accessory (cigarette lighter) goes, that way the camera doesn't stay on when my car is off.

Yep I've said the same thing in the subreddit. Always buy a thermal fuse that permanently blows. The one from the BOM will reset itself IIRC. I believe this is one of the ones I've used in the past printer bed only needs to go to ~110 for ABS, that gives you a little leeway over. I use rescue tape to secure them to the heating pad to make sure they will blow if the need ever arises.

Thanks for your help. I bought this last week, so I should be good to go.

I wouldn't recommend tieing into anything after the fuse since it could overload that circuit and blow it (I doubt it will happen, but it could).

You can buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ and make it a new circuit with it's own fuse.

Hope that helps.

There's my problem.

http://www.amazon.com/HitCar-Vehicle-Circuit-Profile-Holder/dp/B00U61OPZ4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00


Based upon that specific one.... you have the SMALL version. I ordered the MINI and its too shallow. Thanks for your help, I will be ordering up the small version now.

Which fuse did you tap into? It seems like the consensus is 86 but it makes me weary since its the airbag module. Are there any others that are on only with the ignition?

Thanks again for your help!

Depending on the cam there will either be two or three wires that need connecting. One will be a ground and can be connected to any bolt around the fuse box that connects to the metal of the car body.

If only two wires then you would connect the other to either a fuse that is "always on" such as the stop lights (simply marked STOP) on my fuse box cover, or a line that is only on when the key is in and turned on, like the radio fuse. Which way you connect it will depend on your installation/camera and if you want to have a parking mode, etc

If there are three wires then you need to connect the remaining two wires to both of the fuses outlined above. If you know what kind of fuses your car uses (probably can google this) you can buy your add-a-fuses from amazon or if you don't just go to a car parts place, they can give you the correct ones.

An add-a-fuse is like this -> https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00I0MWPXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

you pull the existing fuse out of your fuse box, stick it into the add-a-fuse, so that there are now two in the add-a-fuse, and you install it where you took the fuse from. then just crimp the wire in the crimp connector (you'd want pliers for this) and you're good!

Hook the Bazooka harness's red cable to your car radio harness's orange cable. Hook the Bazooka harness's blue/white cable into your fuse box with an "add-a-circuit" available at your local Walmart or Autozone. Use some speaker wire or something to get it over there and ziptie it neatly along they way. Add it to a circuit that turns on and off with the key, maybe the cigarette lighter circuit. Hook the black ground ring to a bare metal (not painted) bolt on your car's chassis. Hook the speakers up as stated. When you're all done, make sure it works and that it turns off when your car is off. Enjoy!

I have the GoControl - it works just fine and is very unobtrusive. I use an external 24V power supply with it as I have a 40-year old furnace with a 2-wire control and no 'C' connection. We can say "OK Google set the thermostat to 70" or "OK Google make it warmer", and use the SmartThings app to adjust the heat when we're away from home. (Note the comment I added above about smart outlets.)

Seems like the hardwiring kit in /u/nonvideas post is out of stock. You can use these two things instead:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0MWPXU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZJBELQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

This is what I used. There's a panel under the fuel lid/hood release latches that uncovers a small fuse panel. First, unscrew the big bolt you see (you may have to pry the bigger plastic cover slightly) using a 13mm socket. Tighten the bolt so that the black ground cable from the cigarette lighter thing is secure. Then, insert the red power cable into the red wire connector from the fuse tap and crimp the wire. Now you're ready to tap your fuse box. Take out the fuse you want to tap, insert it into the fuse tap, then insert the fusetap fuse into that same socket. Now you're tapped into the battery power and only the ignition will power the cigarette lighter.

Cigartte lighter socket + quality car phone charger + Add-a-circuit kit (check your fuse type) + some quality tape + Right-angle USB charging cable

You wire the red wire on the cigarette adapter to an add-a-ciruit (i.e. with a crimp tool). The black wire goes to ground (i.e. tucked under some bolt someplace, or a ring terminal ). You put the charger in the now-attached cigarette adapter in the fuse area under your driver's side dash. Then you need to route an appropriate USB cable (i.e. with one with a right-angle head or right-angle adapter on the dash cam side) to the under dash area (usually by tucking it under the headliner over the windshield, and then by popping the A-pillar cover off and the side panel of the dashboard, and feeding the cable through). Once you have all the wires under the dash, you just need to hook them up, test them, and then tape them together so they can't come loose.

The advantage of going this route is that you 'own' all the pieces. If any part of the formula isn't working out, you can change just that part. You also get a spare USB-C charging port for free since that adapter has both A and C.

It's pretty easy to add a usb charging port with this and this.

This is the things that I wrote for another guy, and since I already have it typed I'm just pasting it here. Since it's such a small battery my idea (155Ah) is to charge it with my alternator.

 

• Battery
  
• Isolator
  
• Inverter
  
• This Accesory
  
• And this cables with this fuse.
  
  I would use that accessory to plug stuff that use 12v like cellphone charger,fans etc. It's best to run things directly from the 12v DC instead of converting it to AC and then again converting it to DC.
  
  Those cables are over-kill, but that's what I would buy because they are not that expensive and it doesn't hurt.
  
  
   
  
  
  This is how I would connect everything. It totals around $475 US.

I understand not everyone is mechanically inclined, but I hate to see people paying for a dashcam install. They're one of the simplest installs you can do on a car! Even if you've never wired anything in your life, it's pretty simple! If you really hate the cigarette adapter and want to hide your wires, all you need is about $8 on amazon, or at autozone, oreillys, anywhere for an "adapt a fuse".
You just need to connect the positive from the dashcam to this baby and pop it in the fuse panel (almost always located in the car). Connect the negative to just about anything metal in the car and it's grounded.
Like others have said, be sure you bought a dashcam with a capacitor and not a battery. The heat out here will ruin the battery, fast. The capacitors have a little easier of a time.
Good luck!



https://www.amazon.com/Uriveusa-Circuit-Adapter-Holder-Upgraded/dp/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=car+fuse+adapter&qid=1564186478&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQzgxMlkwMU9DNjhKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzA1NDIxQk9FVTQ1TkszUkI0JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMjMyMjgzOEQ1RjdSNTdRSVhKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

im using this to power the ecobee

the way this works is there are two posts each sending 12v. One leg (yellow) is connected to the rC and the other leg (blue) is connected to the C for a total of 24v.

I want to know if i can just splice the two 12v legs into one and get 24v for the C.

the rC getting 12v seems to be tricking the furnace into thinking it needs to pump heat.

I have a 2 zone, 2 taco system that ecobee tells me to use a fast-stat along with the transformer to "add a common" but I dont need to add a common...i have a free wire already, so im trying to utilize it (if possible)

The knivio bluetooth is a good call, ive had mine for almost a year now which works perfectly and have done exactly what you want to do. What i used was an Add a circuit and then wired a new cig socket to the add a circuit i bought form autozone. Now it will auto connect and turn on only when the key is switched to acc position when connected to the right fuse, typically rap, ign, with that specific size fuse. Also i just hid the extra socket under the dash. Also if you do end up getting a noticeable noise/interference which i highly doubt use this ground loop isolator.

A power inverter is what you'll need. As for wiring it in, perhaps something like this will help. You could just find a circuit that comes on with the key (radio circuit usually) to plug that into. However, that wire does seem a little too thin to run an inverter..

Someone on this forum recommended [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075CTPZW6/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for adding a C wire. It works great! Follow this [diagram] (https://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/thermostatic-controls/48111d1426649484-wireless-thermostat-replace-wired-honeywell-th8320r-external-transformer-n-boiler.jpg)

using something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Shipping-CIRCUIT-BLADE-PROFILE-FUSETAP/dp/B00K17A2E6

Allows you to tap into an existing fuse slot fairly easily, its pretty much unplug a fuse, plug it and two fuses in.. then you can wire to the existing wire and a metal to the frame point under the dash.

I have done this with my car since my cigarette lighters are always on.

I used it to wire one of these in: http://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Charger-Cigarette-Lighter-Female/dp/B00EZJBELQ

And I just plugged my cam into that.

Well, I have a splitter on that now and my cam and gps are on it.. but same thing..

Thank you!

Is this the correct hardware kit?

https://www.amazon.com/Viofo-3-Wire-Hardwire-A129-Camera/dp/B07KZGM9LS/ref=sr_1_2?crid=QK7O5MVGQXYV&keywords=viofo+3+wire+acc+hardwire+kit&qid=1569346851&sprefix=Viofo+3-wire+hardwire+kit%2Caps%2C227&sr=8-2

Is this the correct tap-a-fuse kit?

https://www.amazon.com/Uriveusa-Circuit-Adapter-Holder-Upgraded/dp/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=tap-a-fuse+wire&qid=1569346818&sr=8-1

1. Yes, it will work, and is more than enough power. Look around a bit, they make some that are contained and plug directly in to an outlet. Might help position it better.
   
   
   I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075CTPZW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_04LQAb367PJ8W
   
   That one's 40VA, but 1000mA is more than enough power.
   
   Worked with my Ring 2 before I switched to Nest.
   
   
2. Don't know if you need a resistor. I had a chime installed.

Use a multimeter, and figure out which of your fuses are only activated when the key is on.

Then use a fuse tapper("add-a-circuit kit") in place of it.

Done. Nice an easy, no splicing or anything.

Check out this site to find an always-on circuit. Likely door locks, cabin lights, etc. Or you could splice one of the fuses under the steering column. Avoid anything airbag related (yellow stickers, yellow wires, yellow tape) and the illumination circuits (dash lights, backlit buttons, they are backwards from other circuits and you'll short it like I did). I'd probably recommend getting a fuse jumper and tapping into an always-on circuit. Be careful about draining the battery, of course. I'd suggest a mobile jump starter if you're planning on using power with the car off.

So something like this? And then just strip the end of the wire for the dash cam and connect it to that?

Like this?:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U61OPZ4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3CA5H83RV6W5M

Easy way:

Get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1347317089&sr=8-4&keywords=mini+fuse+add+a+circuit

Plug it into a circuit that comes on with ACC, being sure not to overload the fuses.

Run wires through the firewall. Attach red to red, black to Battery Neg.


Right way:

Use ACC/RUN signal to trigger fused relay. Output of relay runs radio.

I don't know of any plug in devices, but you could install a small fuse holder out there and protect only the receptacles the caretaker has access to. Order a 7 or 8 amp fuse and it'd give you a fighting chance.

Terminals: (need 2, get at least 10, you'll mangle at least a couple) https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0330122001/WM2989CT-ND/2405588

Add-a-circuit: https://www.amazon.com/Uriveusa-Circuit-Adapter-Holder-Upgraded/dp/B01LFXA5YQ

Also need some 16g wire (or so, 16 is the smallest that properly fits the blue crimp connection on the add-a-fuse, though I'd recommend using heat-shrinkable butt splices instead, just for the water proofing).

Try the dye first, you might not even need to evacuate your system. Buy a kit like this.

So just replacing it you would need to verify that the conduit is providing the ground. It is done that way sometimes.

If it is the ground this should suffice. https://www.amazon.com/Bussman-BP-SRU-Fuse-Cover/dp/B00004WA3I/

Do note that I have no clue as to how code effects all of this. I am not an electrician I just play at one. I will let the real ones around here answer how code plays out here.

You'll be looking for something like this near the heating coil, I presume. It could be elsewhere also but once located, see if the temp & amp ratings are legible and order exact or something close.

Edit- A continuity test across the ends will let you know if the fuse is the culprit...infinity=blown.

I just installed this exact thing in my car (well, sort of, I got the version with a full size female USB port instead of the mini male port so I wouldn't be constrained to that one cable)

Anyway! That is not an inline fuse. That is the 12v to 5v step down, and you definitely need a fuse on top of that.

Here's everything I bought (note that you will need the fuse tap that fits your car)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I3P6QQG

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K17A2E6

And with that and a 6 inch mini USB cable I had lying around, my G1WC is hard wired to my car!


One more note: all these EDO adapters are miswired. They put garbage on the data lines of USB, so your camera thinks it's connected to a PC. A trimmed piece of tape covering the center pins on the USB cable (there are four pins, 1 2 3 4, you need to cover 2 3) fixes that problem elegantly.

The power connector needs to run to a switched power source. In Trailblazers (and most other late model GMs), there is no switched power wire for the stereo. This gives you 2 options. Option 1 is to run the power connector wire to a physical switch that you would have to flip to turn the amp on and off. This is less than ideal, because if you forget to turn it off, you can end up draining your battery. Option 2 is to get an add-a-fuse, and put it in to a slot (such as cigarette lighter) in the fuse box (under the rear seat) that will give you switched power. You might have to try a few different slots until one works.

http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369754411&sr=8-1&keywords=add+a+circuit

I did the same, took me a while to get it working properly though.

I don't know, I don't use the cable clips. I used one of these to wire it into my car and ran the cable behind the siding roof lining.

Here is the emblem, here is the exterior lighting, here is the interior lighting, and here is the fuse tap needed to wire anything to a car's fuse box!

Most people will find a switched wire at the fuse panel using a fuse tap.

I don't like mine being taken up either. I used a female cig lighter adapter and a fuse tap. So, this means I didn't have to cut up the BT adapter and have a non-destructive way to get 12v to the BT adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006TIRZA/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BGELQ

Not in my jeep but I installed a sat radio box in my moms new honda and had to top into a constant and switched source. I bought two Add-A-Circuits from AutoZone. Just get the right size for your fuses.

Use a multimeter to find an open fuse slot in the fuse box that is a switched source. (Just have someone in passenger seat turned key on/off for you while you check them) Tap into it with the add-a-circuit and most have their own fuse holder so you can prevent any problems.

Get one of these and run a new wire. No need to splice into existing OEM wire harnesses that cost a fortune to replace.

Yes. You'll need to find a 12 volt power source that turns off with the key is removed from the ignition. This may or may not be simple. You'll need a multi-meter, and you'll need to probe power sources under the dash until you find one that cuts off when the key is out. Usually, the best place to start is at the inside fuse block. You can get a fuse tap that fits into the existing fuse slot and gives you a power lead and the existing fuse. [Like this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BGELQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687442&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000CQDRTI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0HP8993WYB5TQ9Q8D907)

You may need to look at your fuse block to see if you need one with a lower profile.

Nah I'm totally okay with running cable through the firewall. I've set up the sound system in my car so I've already done that for the power cable, I've also tapped into the clock for the remote wire for the amp.
So essentially, find out where the fuse is for dome lights, (insert object always on here), plug in one of these bad boys: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ
and use the wire for power?