(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best electrical cable ties

So for wall mounted TVs I recommend a cable raceway (similar to this) to disguise the cable on the wall. You can adhere to the wall with command strips or other double-stick.

You can also use this for the lamp cord. I recommend moving the lamp closer to the wall. If there is excess cord, you can often feed it back into the lamp base. If your lamp base doesn't have a bottom, you can neatly (and gently) coil (DO NOT CREASE) the excess cord and secure with cable ties (I like this stuff because it only takes a little, and it's repositionable, unlike zip-ties).

As far as the power brick and excess cord to the wall...I would recommend placing an entertainment center (games????) OR some kind of decorative something that sparks JOY! Maybe something that can function as storage for something you need in the room, but don't want laying about (remote controls, etc).

Pro-tip: it may be tempting to pull cords SUPER tight, but keep a little slack to ensure the cable isn't being bent at the connectors.

Good luck, and please share your end solution with us!

Awesome build man! One thing you are lacking is cable management! But that isn't a big deal but if you want to take it to the next level of pretty come over to /r/CableManagement . Those guys there know there shit and are very helpful!

I personally would recommend some zip ties, twisty ties, and some velcro! Velcro is the shit.

For bigger wires these worked great for me. A bit pricey but they are wonderful.

http://www.amazon.com/ColorYourLife-Reusable-Fastening-Microfiber-Packaging/dp/B00CI5YW4U/ref=pd_ys_sf_s_rp_a1_2_p?ie=UTF8&refRID=0CKBF12EX0GRNFPZWYYH

Smaller things I usually go with this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GRTHEYI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusable-Self-Gripping-Inches-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1409399401&sr=1-1&keywords=zip+ties

Zip Ties

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OK7P3G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6233-Cable-Ties-500-Piece/dp/B000NPZ4D0/ref=pd_rhf_gw_s_cp_31_AGK5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1KER4A54A5HGWD1C6GC6

A few weeks ago I posted some pics of a "quick and dirty" induction heater I made:

https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/8igobf/gear_shot_yet_another_quick_and_dirty_dynavap/

The heater I built in the previous post worked great, but I wasn't happy that it heated continuously when it was powered on. I decided to add an "on demand" mode, similar to the way the Portside functions: I wanted the induction heater to be energized only when the vapcap was in need of being heated.

I decided to use the same method and hardware that the Portside uses for its triggering mechanism: a small momentary switch at the base of the coil, utilizing the same 12 mm x 12 mm Arduino 'tactile' input switch as the Portside. This switch is normally open but closes (and activates the circuit) when the vapcap is inserted in the induction heater opening and lightly pressed down. I mounted this to a 25 mm square Zip tie "sticky base" using a small dab of hot glue, and ran the wires under the base through a drilled hole. I am happy with how it came out.

I took one other feature from the Portside design and decided to use a MOS FET triggering module to handle the actual power switching, sparing my momentary switch from having to pass enough current to power the heater.

This is the finished desktop unit - pictures, diagrams and some other notes:

https://imgur.com/a/pzRe3SV


PARTS LIST:

12mm x 12mm Arduino Switches:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQVGLC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My original 'big red switch' was a pull from an Epiphone Valve Junior guitar amplifier, left over from an earlier project. It looks nice, but it's nothing special - any latching (i.e., non-momentary) single pole/single throw (SPST) switch will do. This site has some switches that look pretty good and could work:

https://www.sparkfun.com/categories/145?page=1

Momentary trigger switch base:
https://www.amazon.com/Self-Adhesive-Mounting-Organizer-Management-Fastener/dp/B074279VJG/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1527451422&sr=8-16&keywords=zip+tie+sticky+mount

Like the Portside's trigger, I used a 12mm x 12mm Arduino tactile (momentary) switch. Mine is hot-glued to a Zip tie "sticky base", which has the foam removed and is screwed to my board. I kept the stock Arduino switch button and trimmed its edge to fit inside the tube. There is a small segment of 7/16" wooden dowel inside the tube to achieve the correct height.

Pyrex tube:
Iwodevape Replacement Glass Tank for Cloupor Cloutank M3 Vaporizer authentic
https://www.fasttech.com/p/5236304

MOS FET trigger module:
15A 400W MOS FET Trigger Switch Drive Module PWM Regulator Control Panel
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOS-FET-Trigger-Switch-Drive-Module-PWM-Regulator-Control-Panel-15A-400W-NEW/331961560311?hash=item4d4a736cf7:g:7IsAAOSwEzxYeEwQ or similar. Just search for the above part description, you'll find the right one. It's a popular Arduino circuit.

If you plan on using a momentary switch, this is the way to go. Don't make the momentary switch directly supply the heater current.

Heater:
Yosoo 5V-12V ZVS Low Voltage Induction Heating Power Supply Module With Coil
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C71XKZ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power jack:
If you can solder:
https://www.amazon.com/2-1x5-5mm-Female-Barrel-Socket-Connector/dp/B01M3WBIA3/ref=sr_1_21?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527463812&sr=1-21&keywords=5.5+x+2.1+female

If you can't:
https://www.amazon.com/Sumaote-2-1x5-5mm-Connector-Terminal-Adapter/dp/B0761NL8V6/ref=sr_1_18?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527463812&sr=1-18&keywords=5.5+x+2.1+female . Although, seriously, this probably isn't a good project for you if you can't solder.

I know many of you have these for yourselves and don't need any help or parts lists, but this may help those who need a little more guidance.

Updated to add: the above links are intended to show the correct parts, but may not be the cheapest or fewest quantities available.

Cheers!

FLOORING BASE: 2 layers

LAYER ONE: TARP
i do the same with a tarp on the floor, but i fold the tarp about a foot up the ex-pen walls to contain dust, fur, etc...inside the pen. you can cut and fold the tarp as necessary to make sure the floor is covered. i use either zip-ties or clips to secure the sides of the tarp.

1. there are all sorts of sizes of tarps on amazon. i usually go big and cut to size. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ODH2WY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. re-usable zip ties are easy to tie/un-tie as you change configurations. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OC2EE6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
3. bull dog clips fit perfectly between the ex-pen bars to clip items.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RMO85E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   LAYER TWO: CARPET TILES
   
   i have two pairs of bonded bunnies and one pair will aggressively chew, dig and claw their way through almost EVERYTHING i give them, but i've had pretty good success with FLOR tiles. the backing is a tough rubber with a soft low pile carpet on top that they can't dig through. they will nip at the corners but stop once they find it's too tough to chew.
   
   if you shop at the FLOR online outlet, you can get 20in x 20in tiles for $3 each ($1/tile plus $2/shipping each tile).
   
   https://www.flor.com/carpet-tiles/outlet/random-pattern-tile
   
   i didn't really care what colors or patterns they sent so i took a chance and the selection they sent were actually not too bad (browns and blues).
   
   
4. i lay each tile down next to each other and over the tarp to create a continuous layer of carpet.
   
5. each tile can be cut to size with a box cutter knife if needed.
   
6. individual tiles can be cleaned or thrown away if needed.
   
   hope that helps:)

I looked in my gig bag for inspiration - it turns out that I just have way too much shit in there, most of which is under £15. Cheaper DIY options offered where applicable:

• The snark SN2 clip-on tuner. Absolute must-have.
  
• A decent multi-tool
  
• Allan Key Set if the multi-tool doesn't have the right sizes (metric is normal unless you play something made across the pond, but in case you need imperial, and have lots of space in your gig bag)
  
• Dunlop strap locks are a solid addition to any bassist's set-up
  
• Some fret-fast (I'm too lazy and disorganised to get new strings very often - you could just sub a rag and white mineral oil, but this is a convenient little package)
  
• A couple of spare 9V batteries for your bass, or your (more likely your guitarist's) pedals
  
• A fold-away bass stand that you can take to practices, comes in just over budget, but is a good addition and folds up to about the size of a tube of Pringles
  
• Some cheap bric-a-brac like electrical tape, gaffer tape, write-on-anything pens - all good additions
  
• A decent set of ear-plugs to protect your hearing
  
• Foldaway music stand if you ever play with sheet music; alternatively, if you have a car or are near public transport then this guy might be more bang for your buck; light in case you have one and play in dark venues sometimes and bag in case, like me, you're always leaving the house on gig-day carrying too much
  
• Patch cables if you use several stomp-boxes or rack units
  
• Cable ties to stop your cables getting mangled (can always use zip-ties instead - less neat but much cheaper)
  
• A cheap soldering iron is not essential, but it will be good to have one for that odd occasion where you need it - I've actually been in situations where I've saved some poor soul's night (occasionally mine) by having one of these on my person
  
• Owning a padded guitar strap has saved me much back pain over the years.
  
• A decent torch for last-minute backstage repairs and adjustments, lighting your pedalboard, etc
  
  Conspicuous consumerism at its finest, ladies and gents.

Oh FYI I just picked up a 5M audio cable. Was hard to find a 1/4" to Mini XLR cable but I found one on Amazon. Just wait till you get your headphones setup and play a few songs in Audioshield. It's absolutely amazing and far better than the included earbuds. Might be due for a better amp sometime soon.

I attached the cable about every foot with velco ties and left about 6" of cable on the headset for slack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJPPSL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wouldnt it be much more cost effective without losing the stickyness if I used clips like these and replacing the adhesive to make it stronger with these. I'm planning to use a flat ethernet cable like this so the clips I think should be fine. The cable length is quite long, which is why I mentioned price as I need quick a few clips.

Labels are your best friend. Use server zip tie labels. you can put em in the pot like a tag until you are ready to place it above the first few nodes. https://www.amazon.com/Amgate-Write-Ethernet-Marking-100pcs/dp/B0153CAU2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488012625&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+zip+tie+labels

Something like these?

I would also recommend checking out the Neoprine Omnimount, which is excellent for tidying cables in an entertainment center

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor | $169.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-970A-D3P ATX AM3+/AM3 Motherboard | $79.99 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $79.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $109.99 @ Micro Center
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $56.99 @ Micro Center
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon R9 280X 3GB Dual-X Video Card | $273.98 @ Newegg
Case | Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.99 @ Micro Center
Power Supply | Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $64.99 @ NCIX US
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $19.98 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Acer G226HQLBbd 60Hz 21.5" Monitor | $99.99 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | $29.99 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1005.87
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-18 18:44 EDT-0400 |

I recommend that you watch up on videos and read guides plus give yourself time to think about it before building.

When I started thinking about building a PC, I consulted these three videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_56kyib-Ls, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea_bs5G1yYU, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4Js2A1qdB8. The Newegg video suggests you build it outside the case first to complete a test boot, but you don't have to do that.

When you open your case, there will be loose wires coming from the front of it. When I saw those, I panicked because I had no idea where they were suppose to go. You can set them aside before proceeding, because they'll connect to the motherboard.

I recommend that you install the CPU, CPU cooler (which comes with the CPU), and RAM to the motherboard first before putting the motherboard inside the case.

Please manage cables. Buy a bag of cable ties. The case comes with a few, but it's best if you buy more. Route all the PSU cables to behind the motherboard tray. Detach any that you aren't using, since this is a semi-modular power supply. Managing cables means there's more airflow, which can allow for lower temperatures.

Put in the metal I/O shield that comes with the motherboard. Screw in the motherboard in with the SPECIFIC screws provided, but don't tighten them until you can't tighten it more. Doing so cause damage.

Screw your drives in (SSD, HDD, and optical drive).

Connect wires.

Now when you install an OS, make sure you install it on the 256GB SSD. SSDs are faster than HDDs, so will boot up your computer faster. You can also install things like games and applications onto it to make them load faster.

Have fun!

Yes, go back to IKEA! Somewhere near the end, around the lamps and ceiling lights, I found these cheap cable snake sleeves:
https://m2.ikea.com/us/en/p/rabalder-cable-organizer-white-20281419/

I also use these for cables under the desk after separating out of the snake and organizing under the desk:
https://www.amazon.com/Command-Clear-Clips-Strips-CL017-13NA/dp/B076ZT3FVN/
These too:
https://www.amazon.com/Command-Damage-Free-Small-without-Packaging/dp/B0751TRS6Y/

And these are great for individual cable control:
https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Elastic-Cable-10-pack/dp/B001PGXKCS/

I've added to and removed from my setup half a dozen times since I last organized my wires so they're a mess again, so be aware that it's a constant battle.

Edit: these look pretty good too, am going to get some myself if I don't make it to IKEA soon:
https://www.amazon.com/Alex-Tech-25ft-Protector-Sleeving/dp/B07FW3MKGH/

Assuming your cables are long enough to wrap into a couple thicker bundles Id suggest buying some nylon sleeves, and some velcro ties. Then you can get some little stick squares and selectively zip tie them to bottom of table.

Sleeve: https://www.amazon.com/Techflex-PTN0-50BK25-General-Purpose-Braided/dp/B004UHQNUU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504071017&sr=8-2&keywords=nylon+cable+sleeve

(Can try finding the above in white too for more stealth)

Cable ties:
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Self-Adhesive-Strap-Extendable/dp/B01L91P670/ref=sr_1_21?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1504071102&sr=1-21&keywords=velcro+ties

(Look for this kind, these are kinda overpriced, but the loop allows you to get it nice and snug)

Zip ties squares: https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Backed-100-Pack-Nova-White/dp/B072R6GFKW/ref=sr_1_cc_4?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1504071156&sr=1-4-catcorr&keywords=zip+tie+squares

(Then just some zip ties to use with the above to attach to bottom of desk/wall)

These are similar to options ive been using a combination of for years, and allows you to tuck all the wires away super cleanly so you dont have to look at them or get them caught around your feet.

Lots of velcro ties. I like these ones because they're super thin flexible and have good hold: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/

Stick on cable anchors. If your case doesn't have a place to add a velcro tie somewhere you want to add on, just stick an anchor there: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WW8P83/ (these are normally cheaper at your local hardware store, normally right beside the zip ties)

Just get some of those little velcro ties and start grouping the cables together and bundling them up. Rinse and repeat until it looks nice :) Like this, heck they're even Division Orange :) https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Cables-Wires/dp/B00JJPPSL8

Awesome man. I cannot tell you how cool I find all this. Science!

Here is what I have purchased so far.

12v 6a 72w power supply

ZVS Heater and Coil Combo

Switch. Can hold up to 20amps not sure that mattters whatever, room for extra isn't bad.

[Glass Tube]I DELETED THIS AS WHAT I HAD HERE IS TOO BIG! DO NOT BUY THE GUITAR SLIDE I HAD LISTED! NEW TUBE. I ordered this from China on a Thursday, let's see how long it takes to get here.

So, I would just be missing the mosfet and momentary switches that you have. Do you find them necessary? I might just buy the mosfet and momentary for peace of mind, but I did see a couple build that avoided the mosfet for simplicity's sake. This build seems to have avoided one.

Any further advice (wire gauge, soldering tips, etc)? I am currently looking for a good box to put it all in. Thanks again for the reply.

EDIT - MOSFET

Momentary Buttons

Mounting things for the momentary buttons

IF ANYONE IS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE, CONSIDER USING A 120W POWER SUPPLY. I DO NOT REALLY UNDERSTAND BUT SUPPOSEDLY IT MATTERS.

On the other hand, this brand https://www.amazon.co.uk/BLACK-CABLE-530mm-BASES-STOCKED/dp/B009VD3U5Y indicates it's "Useful for securing large, heavy components". Trump is definitely a large, heavy component.

Cable tie anchors might be a good shout. Something like this:

100 Pack Black Zip Tie Adhesive Mounts Self Adhesive Cable Tie Base Holders with Black Multi-Purpose Cable Tie (Length 150 mm, Width 2 cm) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B077TSNMGD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5wQsDbYJE2HRR

Just bundle up the cables and tie them in. Make sure an anchor is before every branch and you can get some nice right angles in the runs.

inspired by /u/WormSlayer

 

Like some people, even wearing the rift with the triangle as far down as I can manage, there's a firm pressure on my cheek bones that eventually turn into pain. Having a counterweight helps balances out the rift and prevent it from doing this. Also, since the extra weight is dangling off the back of the headset, it does not really add any weight pressure to your head, it just kinda keeps the rift balanced correctly.

 

Bill of Materials:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064D4I5U
(you may want to grab the weights elsewhere as the price had gone up, it was $5 when I bought it)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073HFK7M1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057563UO

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DH8IT

 

Making it is pretty simple. First I laid down the handkerchief flat on the table. Then I peeled the adhesive cover and stacked the four weight bars two by two on the sheet with the bottom side up so that when I fold in the handkerchief, it will stick on to the bottom of the weights. I kept the folds together with some double sided tape and finished up with a velcro tie to be able to latch on to the rift to (3 is probably overkill btw, it should be perfect with 2).

 

BTW, the weights come in a set of 4 for 60gx4= 240g total which is perfect. I was dumb and bought 4 as I thought it only comes with one stick. As a a result, I have enough materials to make another 2 counterweights. If anyone wants one, I can ship them out for the cost of shipping (~$7 for small flat rate box within US).

Reusable zip ties are your best friend. You can get 100 for $10 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C4ZRIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zhNQBb7030SKP

Get yourself some of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JOFKPHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nyTmzbCB1M2Y0

And start routing your cables under your desk or on your wall behind and keep it nicely tucked up and out of view. Make sure the cables don't cross over one another too much in case you ever need to remove or re-route any cables.

Velcro Zip Ties are nice too for grouping cables together.

I don't think those are long enough to fit around a wrist fast and easily and are too thin and would be easy to break.
These probably would do better.

If you do this often (and I do), you need a cable tie gun. It will pull the tie much tighter than you can get by hand and then neatly cut it for you. You can get them for free in large packs of zip ties sometimes.

Something like this might help you out. I use em from time to time and I like that they are reusable.

I just finished a second crash cart for my SO, and this time I kept track of the parts I used during assembly. So as a gift to the VR subreddits I tend to follow here's some assembly photos and a full parts list should you want to build your own.

Parts list:

(1x) HF / USG Rolling Toolcart $99 with coupon - https://www.harborfreight.com/26-in-4-drawer-580-lb-capacity-glossy-black-roller-cart-61634.html

(1x) Asus VP239H-P Monitor - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=2W2-000Y-00007

(1x) VESA mount - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKCIJU/

(6x) Rubber Grommets (requires 1 1/2" bi-metal hole saw) - https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Rubber-Grommets-Inside-Diameter/dp/B06XKJ4NRF/

(1x) PRIME Power Strip - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003DKJ2VC/

(1x) Best Buy - 9' VR Cable Extension - https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-9-vr-extension-cable-black/5706844.p?skuId=5706844

Additional parts required:

(4x) 1/4" x 3/8" steel rivets (requires rivet gun) - https://www.amazon.com/Surebonder-FPC86S-100-4-inch-Medium-Rivets/dp/B001C2FW3A/

(2x) 1/4 x 20 Rivet Nut for attaching the power strip. (Requires nut setting tool) https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plated-Carbon-Nutsert-4-20UNC/dp/B00X74FNVW/

(2x) 1/4 x 20 x 3/4 button cap hex screws - https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Inch-20x3-Socket-Button-Screws/dp/B015A3ABL4/

1 x 1 cable tie mounts for dressing the wiring inside the toolchest -
https://www.amazon.com/Darller-Adhesive-Cable-Mounts-Holders/dp/B071WW8P83/

4" cable ties, black -
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-43036-4-Inch-Cable/dp/B0002GX1XA/

And lots of blue loctite for all the fasteners during assembly.

Optional but makes life easy:

Logitech K830 wireless keyboard - https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Illuminated-Living-Room-Keyboard-Touchpad/dp/B00ZOPVSKW/

The last 7 photos are from the first VR Crash Cart I built to help illustrate some of the assembly steps involved.

Flush power strip, closer to wall color, rotatable or flush rotatable extension cord to use with your current strip

Mounting tape for the underside of the desk or the wall

Zip ties and anchors

Looks awesome!

For the love of God (and future sysadmins): http://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Professional-Cable-Wire-Tie/dp/B006ISG5M0/

Thanks! So the labels are simply little cable/zip ties that have a label area on them, you can get them online or probably in a local store (e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Marker-Cable-18LBS-100pcs/dp/B003L13A7K). I work as a software developer/wizard for a digital marketing agency, but have a fairly wide remit :)

Sweet! How much!

They look exactly like FlexiTies that I used to use for cable management.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Releasable-cable-50LBS-100pcs/dp/B004C4ZRIK

About $1.28 more but free Prime shipping should more than make up for it.

You could use larger zip tie mounts like these.

Or you can screw the zip ties to the surface before wrapping your wires with something like this.

Edit: I’m using the first link for wire management for my reef aquarium, so it may work for you as well.

Get yourself some of these. Easier to reuse than normal cable ties, cheap as chips, and they'll help everything look tidier.

Get this then flip that board over and police up those power supply cables. You will thank yourself for maintaining a clean install as your board grows in complexity

You gotta clean those wires up broseph

Get a bunch of stick on wire clips and run your speaker wires up the back side of your wood shelf

Thats way too nice a setup to have exposed wires

Haha, that's usually the reaction I get when I break this bad boy out. I got indoctrinated to them through the aviation business a long time ago, which is where the one in the picture came from. I've also bought these ones from amazon for PC cable management that work very well.

Waiting for HTC to send me a replacement headstrap but have to play VR everyday.

I used the following:
Forney 55675 Headgear Replacement

Monoprice Cable Ties

Two things I would do.

Get these of Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Teenitor-Self-Adhesive-Adjustable-Organizer-Electrical/dp/B01JOFKPHY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484174661&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+management+wall+clips

Then, sort your power strip plugs.
Align cables that go one way all together and align cables that go another way all together.

Use the wall clips and put all align cables to form a " T " pattern from your power strip cable that's plugged into your outlet.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/aww-imagedata/d240597f-4e61-4e64-8840-4791cbb1ad40.png


Edit:
Also clean your floors :D

https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Professional-Cable-Wire-Tie/dp/B006ISG5M0

Our IT technicians use these at work here to clip zip ties. They cut off the extra length cleanly and easily. The edges aren't sharp, and you don't need to go in from odd angles. They use a $300 one, but these look good too.

Yes, they can be!

https://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Releasable-Reusable-Organization-Management/dp/B008OC2EE6

If you want to do it yourself, you'll need a cable explorer. You'll attach the lights to your internal coaxial outlets, and then go back outside to hook up to each wire, and see which color lights up. Be sure to write down where you put which color so you can label the appropriate wires to where they go. You can use zip tie labels for this.

Now, you know where everything goes, so you'll be able to either hook up every lead to a different source, and troubleshoot your connection if you need to. If you want to run an aerial system, you're going to need a distribution amplifier to overcome the loss of having 8 splits. Every coax port in the house will work with either cable, or OTA, or satellite service.

If subscribing to cable television, have the technician do the connection of the cable feed to the system, You are free to mess with the wiring of your house all you wish, but are not authorized to alter or tamper with cable company owned lines or equipment. Have the technician do that.

Something like this.

Along with the standard 1/2" width, I have 1/4" ones at both home and work. Got them at either Lowes or Home Depot, but think I found them on Amazon here. Not quite as thin as zip ties, but close!

Thanks. Out of all the colors the strip offers, the Red was subtle enough for this.

For cable management I used a combination of things.
The main piece cleaning up the wires was this. It is a J channel cable Raceway.

Then I used a combination of reuseable/one time use zip tips and cable tie mounts. Took some time figuring out where to put everything but it helped out alot. The power cables by my feet are the only cables you really see.

Since I've had quite a few years experience with cable management and various forms of "control" - I've opted against these. Sure, they're convenient, reusable, etc. But I've found that they shed with each use. I use resealable ties now.

Yes, self adhesive cable tie mount.
https://www.amazon.com/Darller-Adhesive-Cable-Mounts-Holders/dp/B071WW8P83
This one on Amazon has the screw holes positioned differently but it's basically the same thing.

There are plenty of reusable cable ties, just google em. Here's the first result for me (50/$6).

Velcro is a good option for your own setup, but if you work on other people's computers reusable zip ties is the way to go.

Do yourself and future work a favor dump the Zip Ties, Use Velcro this way if you need to you can undo the strap read the numbers on your wires, without leaving a zip tie mess on the floor. also you can just screw thru the velcro to mount it.

So how you liking the Lifesafety Power supply? We are currently testing one in a new building so far no issues

https://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Releasable-Reusable-Organization-Management/dp/B008OC2EE6

50 reusable zip ties for less than $3 shipped. The twist ties are alright in a pinch, but I much prefer the look of the zip ties.

Also

http://lifehacker.com/5903220/unhook-and-reuse-plastic-zip-ties-with-a-simple-trick

Mono price resealable zip ties... That is all.

Monoprice Releasable cable tie 6 inch 50LBS, 100pcs/Pack - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C4ZRIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v0cKxbEG08138

These for wrapping cables headed into storage:

BongoTies

and these for stands/trusses:

Planet Waves Elastic

I prefer one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Professional-Cable-Wire-Tie/dp/B006ISG5M0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=cable+tie+gun&qid=1566425106&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Here

You forgot something

Get the zip ties you can reuse, therefore they wouldn't be classified as restraints.

Edit: I mean how can they be classified as restraints if you can undo them, right?

http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-One-Wrap-Straps-Inches-91141/dp/B0057563UO/ref=sr_1_10?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1374386131&sr=1-10&keywords=velcro+cable

https://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Releasable-Reusable-Organization-Management/dp/B008OC2EE6

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072R6GFKW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526984725&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ziptie+squares&dpPl=1&dpID=51atNFJ9CHL&ref=plSrch

Get some Velcro Wire Wraps and go to town on them.

Behold! The Lord will give you the answer!

http://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Releasable-Reusable-Organization-Management/dp/B008OC2EE6

I'm not Op but I got you homey.

I see a few different products being used, especially on the underside of the desk. My links may not be the exact same products but they're functionally the same

1

2

And 3

Are you allowed to use these in this application?

Edit: Oops, just saw you already know about them. I think zipties or Panduit are about your only options for stranded wire.

They make reusable ones. I use them around my house. Here's a link to some.

I use these zip ties with label: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Marker-Cable-18LBS-100pcs/dp/B003L13A7K

Or a zip tie gun ...

Here's tons of options: 3m cable clips

My personal favorite.

If you really need it to look good.

Personally, I chose these over Velcro

AIRSUNNY 50pcs 150mm Releasable/Reusable Plastic Zip Cable Wire Tie for Organization/Management https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OC2EE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IIwVBbNZ997ZF

I felt like Velcro loses its stick after awhile so these can be used and undone without really worrying about wear. I don’t care too much if the longer part of the tie is sticking out, but if you do, you can cut just a little bit after the connection and still have a reusable zip tie that isn’t too noticeable. I’m no expert, but the ties have been a lifesaver for cable management for me when the Velcro ones failed.

A zip tie gun.

https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Professional-Cable-Wire-Tie/dp/B006ISG5M0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ISG5M0/

It’s a zip tie gun. You set it to how tight you want it and it cuts off the excess flush.

https://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Releasable-Reusable-Organization-Management/dp/B008OC2EE6

You're dumb.

I hate stapling wires. I'm always afraid something is going to happen to them. Might try some of these instead.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WW8P83/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B071WW8P83&pd_rd_wg=WzDRm&pd_rd_r=W6KXDG3HJ0BE34Q1G322&pd_rd_w=ver4K