(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best electrical light switches

Oh wow, I have non-24 and not very much money, so I've actually been working on doing basically the same thing! Right now I have some fluorescent grow lights plugged into a wemo switch, and let me tell you..... it's certainly not the same.

The bad news is that from what I can find, there's no real good way to do it cleanly if you want dimming, since most smart plugs are a simple binary on/off. I have found a few options though!

(I'm sure you know but please note the requisite be super careful around AC voltage, it'll make you dead)

The first is something along the lines of this, what's meant to be an in-wall dimmer to replace a 1-gang light switch. That's probably gonna be the easiest way to do it -- just attach it to the wires in-line, and you're good to go. There are other, similar options that may be cheaper, especially if you can use something like z-wave.

I don't have a link atm, but I also know that I've seen someone take a normal cheapo wall dimmer and just... hook a lil servo motor up to it. That's also an option?

After some searching, I did find what seems to be the one plug-in smart dimming outlet that doesn't require a hub. Heads-up though, it's only rated to 100W with LEDs so you'll wanna be careful. Not having look much into this, I make no promises, but my cursory googling actually seems really promising. Price isn't horrible, either.

So here's where I thought to check the wonderful world of Sonoff. It's not the CLEANEST solution visually, but they actually do make a smart socket -- if you're willing to drop $60 and be done, just get six of these guys here.

EDIT: Just kidding, those bases also do not have dimmers, so they won't work. But here's a video of someone using one of their surprisingly cheap wall dimmers to do just what you want!

We have a townhome, but a similar setup to a lot of apartments. Lights are a big one for us, but we also do motion sensors and door/window sensors for security.

Motion turns on the bathroom lights, full brightness during the day, dim during the evening, and smart plugs automate the humidifiers and cat box. I also have a Third Reality switch that I just LOVE which is definitely apartment friendly: https://www.amazon.com/Reality-Zero-Wiring-Supports-Switches-Requires/dp/B079M178GW - it basically uses an existing toggle or rocker switch and physically flips the switch for you when you like. Very handy for switches that control multiple lights or switches that control lights with an unusual base size. I used to use the Switchmates for that, but they killed their Wink compatibility, so now they're just ugly paperweights.

Open/close sensors are nice in the closets, turning lights on and off based on the state of the door.

We've also got an open/close sensor on our detatched garage, so that the living room lamp turns orange if the garage door is left open.

The robot vacuum is one of the best things we've bought and is definitely apartment friendly. Neato's D7's (and possibly others) have an "eco" mode that's pretty danged quiet, so as to not disturb the neighbors.

Echos throughout the house provide voice control and music.

Lol /u/neminat - is OP your alt account? Kidding, I'm actually glad to see more interest in this.

I'll have you know we have put it on our innovation calendar for next year and I'll be kicking off the project officially within a month or so. I don't know when the project will start given most of the resources are tied up with the fan, fan+light and remote switches, but we can at least work together to start.

More to come, I'll shoot you a PM in the forums.

Anyway, it's looking like first half 2020 for a timeline. Good news is your championing this project has paid off :)

OP, if you have any suggestions on what you'd like to see in the switch, feel free to check out our forums and let me know. Happy to help!

In the meantime, what you could do is install Aeotec's Dual Nano Dimmer which fits behind your, "dumb" switch and converts it to a smart one.

Aeotec Dual Nano Switch on / off controller with power metering, 2 switches, Z-Wave Plus, In-wall, Compatible with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BPM21Y

Talk soon!

Eric

Founder | Inovelli

Yeah zwave gives you many solid vendors. I’ve been burned by zigbee where each vendor’s “standard” is different enough that things don’t interact well, but the zigbee HA stuff might possibly be better. When I see serious companies like Honeywell making zwave light switches I know that is clearly the right way to go.

The toggles definitely exist:

Zooz Z-Wave Plus Toggle Dimmer Light Switch ZEN24 VER 2.0 (White), Works with Existing Mechanical 3-Way Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0GWI83/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6tEKBbET57R39

This might be more along what you were thinking?

Eaton RF9540-NDBK ASPIRE 300W Dimmable LED/CFL RF Smart Dimmer, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S9KMHXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NvEKBbR4ZDKJ5

This kind of thing is also an option:

Leviton DDKIT-E Decora Digital/Decora Smart Dimmer Color Change Kit, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5VDBK5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-xEKBbE9E3G32

Can’t say I’ve seen too many bronze zwave dimmer switches, but that doesn’t mean they don’t exist. I’ve heard great things about this but haven’t had a chance to run the usb —> outlet magic on my ceiling to set this puppy up:

https://aeotec.com/z-wave-sensor
https://aeotec.com/recessed-sensor

Hopefully this helps.

• Some fluorescent lights are not compatible with electronic switches such as that 7day timer. You could get flickering/strobing, be prepared for issues
  
• IF YOU WANT THE SIMPLEST SOLUTION~ Get a smart outlet [Levinton is a trusted brand, also Lutron]. Plug in a floor lamp, or mount a plug in wall sconce -into the smart outlet. Then you can easily control the lamp with your phone, program it to your liking. Read the fine print carefully, see what programming options are available with the device you choose. NO WIRING NEEDED
  
• IF YOU WANT A SIMPLE PREMIUM SOLUTION~ Go with Lutron wireless controls. This gives you a wall switch you can use as well as the wireless outlet. You still need a floor lamp, or mount a plug in wall sconce. This also can be programmed 7 days, or geofencing which is it turns on when you get nearby. NO WIRING NEEDED
  
• IF YOU ARE READY FOR COMPLICATED WIRING~ Those 7 day timers are a pain to program, I would use a smart switch, which you can much more easily program via your phone. Use Bluetoothto talk directly to your phone, if you have reliable and strong WIFI then go with the WIFI version [do your own research into which smart switches are programmable in the ways you desire]. This method is going to require complex wiring, and will be difficult to install. You will need to cut and modify the smart switch to fit it into the cover plate, no we will not install it in the metal box you have.
  
  Figure out which option you want to go with, then let me know if you need more help [especially if you want to complicated version]

You can do it with a motion detector, smart switch, an Echo, and a SmartThings hub. I don't have it in the bathroom, but I have a routine that trips every morning as I walk downstairs and it turns the lights on in the halls and kitchen area and plays music through the Echo Show on my counter.

I use this motion detector/switch, which is expensive, but it's a hardwired motion detector and switch in one. It works perfect for my given layout, but it all depends on where the switch box is, and where the detection field you want is. Usually it's pretty easy for a bathroom since they're so small.

The only tricky part is that Echo routines can't be triggered by a motion/contact detector, it's needs a switch (see below). But there's a device handler for SmartThings that creates a virtual switch that is seen as both. So I have a little routine in SmartThings that flips the virtual switch when it detects motion, and the Alexa program sees the switch flip and triggers the routine.

All that said, I've seen some posts that Amazon added an API that does the same thing, and I believe you wouldn't even need SmartThings. I haven't bothered looking into it because mine works fine, but try looking here to see if that solution would work for you. If it does all you'd need is an Echo-compatible motion detecting smart switch and an Echo spot.

Thanks! I've just had a look at it and it looks like a work-in-progress project. I haven't found a single smart device advertised to work with it. Supported hardware list consists mostly of Z-Wave/Zigbee devices, which you need Z-Stick to access to in the first place, so this solution doesn't appear to differ much from Home Assistant + Z-Stick, except HA supports hundreds of devices. They also support a couple TP-Link Wi-Fi devices - TP-Link Kasa plugs, Kasa switches. This is a nice find! Some Kasa users are complaining about "Local only" mode visible in their app - which suggests they can work in LAN only environment. Kasa/TP-Link Light component in HA has local polling mode, and requires the IP address of a bulb, which confirms they are indeed local-only capable. Cool. That being said, TP-Link Wi-Fi based devices are even more expensive than Z-Wave ones. But Wi-Fi is Wi-Fi, it's not going anywhere, and God knows what happens to Z-Wave in future.

Well while I have you here (not trying to have you be my personal support staff so feel free to ignore), I am also planning to have at least one motion detector per room so i can do things based on motion. I was going to get the GE on/off motion switch (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Repeater-14291/dp/B07226MG2T/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525720559&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ge%2Bsmart%2Bswitches&th=1) rather than buy a switch and then buy a separate motion sensor, 2 in 1 rater than having to maintain 2 things!

If I have a setup like, GE motion on/off switch which controls room lights, but also have a spot heater hooked up to a different outlet connected to a smart outlet/plug which i will connect to smartthings....

I assume the "motion" detection will work with smartthings? So i can do something like "when motion is detected (via GE smart switch) in Room, turn on lights and spot heater"

sorry newbie question have to know all this before i plop down hundreds of dollars upgrading all my switches. :)

Yes but how do I fit two switches where only one was before and without running another 3 way switch wire?
Is it as simple as getting a dual rocker switch like https://www.amazon.com/Enerlites-Single-Pole-Decorator-Combination-Residential/dp/B075KJMSP3 and a couple of relays like these https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8 ?
It seems like an overly complicated solution to me and i'm not even sure if it would work.

I used to run Insteon, but after repeat issues and expenses, I continually recommend the WeMo Insight. It does power monitoring with reporting (!!) and allows for on/off with your phone. I also recommend them because they're rated for 15A and 1800w, so if you're running a dual-PSU setup, it's likely going to run way under max load.

They're like $55, but I highly recommend them.

Also, I made the mistake of forgetting to enable Power-On in my bios after a power-off state, so I had to go home over lunch today and correct it. Don't forget to do that also :)

I bought the thinkgeek potion LED lamp a while ago, and i had just been thinking it qould be really cool to sync it with the rest of my lights, i found a controller that works with hue on amazon, zigbee, but i havent been able to locate an LED for my purpose. I need a single color LED to replace the one on the board. First time modder here, first project no clue what to do lol. Any help would be appreciated thanks guys! Links below to what i have picked out and the lamp. https://www.thinkgeek.com/product/imro/?srp=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BTQJ8S5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ci7VBb30P34RX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L3BX0AG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Xi7VBb0SGF6MS

By regular, you mean the small “toggle” switch instead of the large flat “decora” switch? You can find some switch plates that mix and match between the styles but I’m not sure if you’d find one decora flanked by two toggle. You could always switch the toggles to decora as well to get a uniform look. Alternately, since you’re hard wiring the one you’re replacing with the pico you could push it to one side so it was toggle-toggle-decora like this one

The pico itself and its wall mount can go anywhere you put a decora. Hell, since you’re not hooking it to power you could put it anywhere you want! Here is a pico/wall mount bundle (though it’s actually $5 cheaper to buy them separately since you wouldn’t use the wall plate in this bundle in favor of the combo one above.)

Caseta does require a hub called smart bridge pro to integrate with HA, as it speaks its own proprietary wireless protocol. The “pro” part is important, a normal bridge won’t report the pico button presses you need to listen for. You can find them around $70 on eBay. A better deal, if you want/need a dimmer to use elsewhere in the house, is this starter kit (note the pro bridge) that you can find for $110-130 as the dimmer runs $50. The msrp for this is about $200 (and it’s seldom on amazon)

Lmk if you go this route and I can send you a config snippet to translate the pico presses to turn off/dim/change color on hue lights. It also requires a custom component that you use instead of the built in one (though there’s been talk of merging them). It’s super simple, you just grab it and drop it in the custom component directory.

Throw out the remote.

Throw out the little box that plugs into the wall (save the 12v power brick if it has one though).

Get a z-wave or zigbee light strip controller (like this one https://smile.amazon.com/ZigBee-Controller-Control-Compatible-Lightify/dp/B07BTQJ8S5/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=light+strip+controller+zigbee&qid=1564664416&s=hi&sr=1-5), and use a smarthub like smartthings or home assistant to program color routines. Bonus - control it with your voice if you have an echo or Google Home.

"Hey Google, turn the cabinet lights to Magenta/Green/Blue - whatever" works effectively. You can also program a repeated sequence to flash certain colors. I did one called "party time" (Hey google, party time!) that flashed a bunch of colors.

I got a few Hue bulbs in my office now, replacing the old bulbs in that fixture. Wonderful way to change up the mood sometimes.

One great bit is hooking it up through my phone so I can have the lights turn on/off by voice control. I'd love to do the same throughout the house, but changing the other bulbs out like that would cost a small fortune. Luckily I found these switches that might do the trick, but haven't bothered to pull the trigger yet.

Anyway, the day I can tell my entire house to turn the lights off on its own will be fun, especially if I can freak out my wife in the process.

I'm assuming you don't already have a switch in the place you'd like to add one? In that case, a zwave remote is your best bet. If you want something that looks like it belongs on a wal, this would be a good option. If you just want a cheap solution, a minimote would also work.

>From what I am reading I can just buy a Z-Wave USB stick and use it on the PC that is hosting HASS?

Yup. I have one of these, works great: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/

>Are there zwave switches that arent a physical switch?

How about just getting one of these? https://smile.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Toggle-Shields/dp/B00DTXKOTM/

>Are there any zwave relays?

There are, though I'm not aware of anything 12v.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/

https://smile.amazon.com/Vision-Z-Wave-Micro-Switch-relay/dp/B00R883YKU/

>Any ideas on how that can be accomplished?

No idea on this on. I'm sure it's possible with HASS. At the very least you can call and external script to make said announcement. You might ask out on the forums, they have a good community: https://community.home-assistant.io/

Cheers!

Your broad options are:

1. Continue using your conventional wall switches to toggle lights. This somewhat defeats the purpose of smart bulbs, though, because you can't remotely operate them (via app, voice, sensors, schedules, wireless dimmer, etc.) when they're switched off. You'd have to turn on the switch first, and then you could use the app (or whatever) to adjust the brightness/color/scene.
   
2. Disable or prevent access to your switches and leave your fixtures in an always-on state. There are a variety of ways to accomplish this. You could tape over the switch (or use something a little fancier), or you could re-wire the circuit and completely remove the switch. A caution on re-wiring: If you ever need to shut-off power to the fixture (e.g. to change a bulb) you'd have to do it at the circuit breaker.
   
   Some folks use a variation of #2: They find creative ways to install a Philips Hue Dimmer switch over-the-top of their conventional switch, thereby preventing access to the old switch and providing convenient access to a Hue-friendly switch in its place!
   
   More recently, there are some new Friends of Hue switches starting to arrive on the market that should fit standard (US & Europe) switch plates (unlike the non-standard sized Philips Hue Dimmer switch.) You could use them the same way folks use the Philips Hue Dimmer switch, without resorting to creative 3D-printing hacks to make it fit.

Lol sorry, I am not quite sure how to ask my question. Basically I am in an old house where adding a light switch / electricity source is not an option. I wondered if there are any workarounds to that (i.e. sounds like you guys have referenced battery-operated light fixtures? good to know). I would love to hang a chandelier from the ceiling. But without having a light switch, I wondered if this is even doable. Wasn't sure if something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/dp/B005B0AY0K

Not OP but I have my Silvia with PID on a smart switch and I love it. I can't remember off the top of my head but I think it handles up to 1400w or 1800w.

I have the Wemo insight.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBXNYCS/ref=emc_b_5_t

Just playing devil's advocate, but wouldn't that be a pretty boring graph? It should be a flat line during any cooking activity.

>I would even expand on this and chart the power usage of the Anova.

I am not sure the controller on the Anova could directly measure power usage. I guess it could be approximated based on the time the impeller is on (always) and the amount of time the heating element is on.

There are various smart switches out there that could directly measure the power usage. This one is pretty popular, but I have never personally used it.

I use leviton all over. In single pole and 3/4 way applications. They don't require a hub either, which is nice. BTW, Both the regular and the dimmer have "Remote" switches that are needed for the 3 way applications.


I love these things.

Leviton DW15S-1BZ Decora Smart Wi-Fi 15A LED/Incandescent Switch, No Hub Required, Neutral Wire Required, Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU9SH77?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Leviton DW6HD-1BZ Decora Smart Wi-Fi 600W Incandescent/300W LED Dimmer, No Hub Required, Neutral Wire Required, Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NASBN1V?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

The smart mirror doesn't have a zigbee hub, so you are gonna wanna get a WiFi smart switch with Alexa support.

Something like the Wemo Dimmer Switch would work well.

> some sort of surface mount switch cover that fit OVERTOP that one, to keep it in n on state

They are called switch guards. I recently picked up these ones for the same purpose, to preventing accidental turning off of Hue bulbs to help make sure they are online. There are different styles and functions, these ones have tabs you can snap off to give easy access through the side, or leave them on and you can still get to it just have to use a screwdriver to take off the cover.

----

Edit I think I misread, and you want to put a Hue switch where an existing switch is. If you are trying to replace the switch with a face plate that doesn't have a switch so you could mount the Hue switch, you'd need to do some electric work. It might be easier to use the guard I mentioned, and mount the Hue switch next to it.

That depends on what sort of hub you have. I used and really like these, so if you have smartthings or another z-wave compatible hub I'd recommend these.

They also come with good enough instructions that someone like me who has never worked with electricity understood what I was doing.

On-off

Dimmer

I believe my wiring is the same. I'm on a Wink hub, and these are what I use:

The dimmer is great because it fits in the wall, but you can't run low-voltage LED lights on it because they use so little electricity that the light will always be faintly on. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLAXFQA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have an over the top switch. It doesn't look as good, but it works. Also, it makes an electric motor noise as it switches. I personally like the noise because as I tell Alexa "goodbye" I can hear the switch to know for sure that my lights are off as I leave my condo. It does work with the switch and a rocker.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079M178GW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lutron caseta is much simpler than it looks at first. You will need the wireless switch and the wall plate hat matches the number of switches in a location (e.g. a 5-switch install needs 5 switches and 1 5-gang wall plate).

For most people, the switch you want is
LUTRON P-PKG1W-WH Caseta Wireless 600-watt/150-watt Multi-Location In-Wall Dimmer with Pico Remote Control Kit, White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_O2YRybNK0JMVR

The single gang wall plate is:
Lutron CW-1-WH 1-Gang Claro Wall Plate (1 Pack), White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MAW4XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F5YRyb2VD4WGE

And you will need one bridge (you can get a bundle of 2 dimmers, 2 picos, and a bridge but that bridge isn't the pro model which you may not need, I got it just in case, but I'm not using any of the additional integration capabilities):
Lutron L-BDGPRO-WH - Smart Bridge Pro
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z8AXQCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N-YRyb1VWE0P8

You can also get a plug in dimmer for Lamps which acts as a range extender, and the non-dimmer switch for other devices such as potentially a ceiling fan or lights that just don't need dimming.

Hope that helps!

In my use case I don't actually disable the internal relay/dimmer because my single-taps directly dim the kitchen recessed lights and double-taps trigger rules on the Hubitat to control the cabinet lights via WiFi/IP.

I was just thinking that your controllers will be more stable and responsive if they have 24/7 power. I know that Inovelli's new red-series switches and the switches from Zooz have the capability to disable the internal relay for exactly this purpose (to support constant power for smart bulbs and always-on controllers).

Rewired a majority of the main level of our 50 year old house with smart switches.

Used the GE Z-Wave switch for anywhere that we didn't have a three way switch.

And for those three way switches we used the Zooz Z-Wave switch. It was pretty sweet as you can only replace the first switch in your three way setup with the smart switch and re-use your regular dumb switches for the other switches. Once it installed the dumb switch will toggle the relay inside the smart switch -- very cool.

I know you wanted automation but... if you don't want the light to come on with motion or with the door opening, you'll probably decide that having to pull out your phone or whatever is a hassle (been there done that with a lamp).

We had an old pull chain light in our pantry. I loathed that pull chain light. LOL We spent days researching solutions. I am a smart home freak, that was my first stop. But nothing really served what we wanted or could use (big limitations on what we could install due to inability to get wires for a switch into the wall or door facing/moldings).

We finally quit overthinking ourselves and went "dumb". When it came down to it, what I really cared about was to not have to stretch across stuff to pull the stupid chain. So we bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E7DTW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It gives you a mountable anywhere button that requires no wiring or batteries. Module goes into fixture, stick button anywhere, done. I'm pretty happy with the solution even if it's not smart. The only thing it doesn't do for me is turn off the light when my kid leaves it on. :\

But we like it so much after 2 weeks, I've just ordered another one for a closet. And will in fact probably order more because I just thought of 2 more pull chains hidden away in my house. LOL

depending on how many devices you need to measure simultaneously, either buy a few of these https://www.amazon.com/Insight-Switch-Control-Lights-Appliances/dp/B01DBXNYCS (or something similar, though I know people have good luck with the Wemo's.. I've got a few waiting to be installed myself) or go with an eBay-fancy-UPS that has this feature built-in.

Be sure that your server architecture doesn't already have this information, for example Dell's iDRAC 6 & later (11th gen and later) provide current, average, and peak power usage statistics for the server itself, negating the need to monitor it with an external solution - you can scrape it right from the BMC.

Here's what I just ordered! Haven't put them in yet but plan to do so this weekend. No hub required and has excellent reviews! They are only single pole though which is exactly what I needed. Also requires a neutral wire which you may not have if you live in a really old house.

TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, No Hub Required, Single Pole, Control Your Fixtures From Anywhere (HS200), Works with Amazon Alexa Kit (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4AODB3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ZZjMugTBYFm4V

You need a switched module (not lamp) and it will handle the fluorescents just fine. GE smart switch with a remote should do the job.

You don't have to rewire anything. One of your light switches is the real switch, and the other is connected to that first switch (not to the main power) Install the GE module at the real switch location, and install the remote at the other, it uses the same wiring.

If you're not sure you can tell the difference, or are concerned about doing a true 3 way, then you can use 1 GE smart module, and velcro an Aeotech Zwave remote near the other location to control it remotely.

Switch

Remote

Aeotech Remote

You can get this

https://www.amazon.com/acegoo-Wireless-Relocate-Appliances-Self-Powered/dp/B015E7DTW4/

They advertise multiple switch control one light. Or one switch control multiple light

>[ Create Multi-location Switch ]: Easy create multiple switches controlling one light by pairing multil switches with one receiver. A switch also can pair with several receivers to accomplish a switch control multi lights

The Lutron Caseta also has an on/off switch (no dimming) that will pair to Wink.

http://www.amazon.com/Amp-Max-Multi-Location-Incandescent-PD-5S-DV-WH/dp/B00NCEMBIA/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1420417941&sr=8-10&keywords=lutron+caseta

I have a ceiling fan with a light and this could be a perfect solution for that. Obviously I won't be able to control the ceiling fan from Wink, but I can at least automate the lights hopefully.

> a contactor will make a lot more sense in this application, though it will not give you an easy way to monitor power

If I'm understanding how these work, I think it does provide a solution. I actually wanted to have a "dual controlled" z-wave switch such as this aeotec so I could control the exterior light on the shed. This could allow me to control the contactor as well as the light separately and still not have to worry about the inductive load on the zwave device.

I've got a similar issue I need to eventually solve. I think this is the best bet currently available: Aeotec dual nano in-wall switch and the manual for the wiring guide.

Hopefully there is room back there....

Is there any reason you're not considering a smart dimmer? You can get them as a switch or a plug. (There are also WiFi versions, if Z-Wave isn't your thing.) Then you can use whichever light you like, as long as they are marked as "dimmable" on the packaging.

I'm not a proponent of smart bulbs in general because, while they last long, they do still burn out. But I understand they are a good solution for some people, though. I hope you find what works for you.

Caseta has non-dimming switches that work with HomeKit. The more reasonably priced one requires neutral but the hard to find one doesn't. (For some reason it's on Amazon for $58 instead of $70+ as I write this)

These can be used to turn a fan on and off, but not control the fan speed.

I wish there was a Caseta version of this combined controller (for a reasonable price) that can work with one wire to the canopy.

https://www.amazon.com/Reality-Zero-Wiring-Supports-Switches-Requires/dp/B079M178GW

I have that and it works great with Zigbee. Works with both rocker and toggle switches. Got it on sale for $25, so maybe just check back until it goes on sale again. 10/10 would recommend for my purpose. Use it on a 4-way kitchen switch with amazon Alexa.

You need to use the Lutron Pro gateway. The standard one doesn't let you use the remotes. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-L-BDGPRO2-WH-SmartBridge-Programmed/dp/B00Z8AXQCQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=lutron+pro+gateway&qid=1550333532&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1

I set mine up a year ago and a that time the caseta component didn't support the pro version so I had to use an different component. I think it was this one https://github.com/upsert/lutron-caseta-pro. I'm not sure if you still need that component.

Anyways that will give you access to the individual buttons on the remotes that are connected to the bridge and the automation after that is pretty easy. make a post if you need any more help and I'll see what I can find

>I have a few switch operated outlets in some of my bedrooms that I want to just make regular outlets.

Do you have other switched controlled lighting in the rooms, or are these designed so you can plug a lamp into them as a source of light for the room? If it's the latter, you can't remove the switch and be code compliant.

It's definitely physically possible to do what you want to do, and it will be as simple as connecting the black wires from each screw together.

Easier solution is to just put light switch locks on them.

This probably isn't what you are looking for, but.....

You can use a Zoos wired dimmer as a "remote" with the Smart Lighting app. Basically, just install the switch in the wall and don't connect anything to the outgoing load. Then have your light "follow" it in Smart Lighting.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0GWI83/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using this Lutron on/off with Wink Hub 2. I just installed it last week for a pair of garage lights and it's been working great. It'd be nice if it was a tad bit cheaper though.

Are all 5 switches important for smart control? If they aren't, you could use a double/triple switch to make room for the smart switches. Example

Probably not the preferred, but I thought I'd throw it out as a possibility in case it helps.

Why not 3 1 gang switches? The ones I've used have little tabs you can break off if you want to use them together with other switches in the same box so that they'll all fit.

The ones I use are z-wave, but I'm sure you could find wifi versions of them.

These are the ones I use. Again, they're z-wave, but I'm sure there's a wifi version floating around somewhere. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XV25Z5R

GE Z-Wave switches. Use their add-on switch combined with one of their regular z-wave switches. (or zigbee or bluetooth it would seem, I am just a fan of bluetooth so that's what I used)

I just did one of my lights that was controlled by two switches with this. The main switch goes where there's power to the switch (and you'll need to make sure you have a neutral wire there) and then your existing traveler wires should be able to be used to connect the other switches.

I also saw these Zooz switches which looked interesting and claim to work with existing three way switches but I have no experience with them. I went with the GE switches because I've used them for regular switches in the past and have been very happy with them.

Z-wave+ is the wireless communication protocol the device uses to talk to your home automation integrator (smarthub, Google Home, Home Assistant, Homeseer, etc.).

Here's a link for the switch recommended above: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074CJ1ZRF/ref=twister_B07BN7X2M8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And a z-wave+ smart plug: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AMB3CI?pf_rd_p=faa1d3e1-fadf-4279-ac2d-3096206e4690&pf_rd_r=0NWRC6V65QSFF1ERAR29

Though, if you're feeling handy (and if you're able to wire the switch), you can also get and wire a z-wave plus outlet instead: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Receptacle-Controllable-SmartThings-14288/dp/B07361JZ2H/

Again, make sure any plug you get can handle the requirements of your fireplace.

You may want to look into this switch. Had motion sensor and buttons to toggle on and off.

Not 100% sure what you need, but it sounds like you want the motion sensor never to be disabled?

I'm not sure exactly how this switch works, but you could use webcore (add-on to smartthings) to make it do what you want. Aka turn the light off if the light is left on too long without motion.

Hopefully this helps!


GE, White & Light Almond, Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Motion Light Switch, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, SmartThings, Wink, Zwave Hub Required, Repeater/Range Extender, 3-Way Compatible, 26931 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07226MG2T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_I21YDb0HWHDQW

Sure can.

That’s the one I use. Works pretty well for me but I don’t know if there’s a better one or not.

That one is RGBW.

For toggle switches. I just use these


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DTXKOTM/

they're relatively cheap, easy to install, not that ugly and you can uninstall them just as easily.

In that case only the Aotec buttons come to mind as a replacement to the smartthings button, I have the nanomote and I very rarely have missed presses, and only because I take it with me.

If it is permanently fixed and in range it shouldn't have issues, other than not looking like a gang switch

I guess the Aeotec wallmote sort of looks like a switch, if you squint a little.

Aeotec WallMote Quad, Z-Wave Plus Wireless Wall Switch, 4 Button, 16 Scene Remote Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCEJAOD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_l8DPDbCW26G19

Related items to the rescue:

Looks like a switch, only one button, cheaper.
Insteon 2342-242 Mini Remote Switch, On/Off (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5RML94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w9DPDb5GHG660

In case anyone else is looking for similar,it's one of these Shabbat light switch covers.

The smart home finds a new use for what was probably only useful to observant Jews before.

I have TP-Link switches and plugs that can be setup to turn on/off at certain times and even put on timers through the TP-Link KASA app. They are my first smart home items, besides the Echo and Dots, and I don't have any complaints yet except I want more.

You said you haven't found a solution to deal with a double gang. Would this work...

Use this to combine the two switches into a single spot:
ENERLITES Double Paddle Rocker...
double rocker


Cover that with something like this to prevent folks from turning off the power to the lights:
cover


Put this in the open spot and use it to control the lights:
White - RunLessWire Friends of Hue
FOH

There are smart switches (example 1) otherwise in the US you can get smart buttons.

If it's two switches in a dual-gang box, that's easy; if you want to keep the faceplate, you can even get switches with those little toggles, like this GE switch.

If it's two switches in a single gang box, there are a few options like this Neo Coolcam dual switch. That one only works in a single-gang, though, so if you have a double gang box or bigger, you'll want something like this: a dual relay switch module.

Note that I've used all the things I've linked to; they are all Z-Wave, but Zigbee and other wireless technologies have similar devices.

I haven't seen any 120v Zigbee controllers that output to 12/24v DC. Only ones like this for normal lighting fixtures: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSK1HVP

If that grey wire just plugs into a receptacle, maybe you could just use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTQJ8S5

and power it with a 120 watt power supply adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Converter-Lighting-Transformer-Flexible/dp/B07FQCF8WF

If they have room in the base of the fixture or the box, this works great

Best part is the switch is kinetic so it doesn't ever need batteries.

Aeotec by Aeon Labs ZW130-A WallMote Quad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCEJAOD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LccSAbVFT0NQH

This works great if I understand what you are asking

key word here was apartment. I wouldn't be doing any electrical work if I was renting. You are just asking for a heap of trouble. I agree that smart switches are way better but for an apartment bulbs are probably the safest bet. Rocker Blocker or Toggle Blocker work if you are worried about guests hitting switches.

They make a regular switch as well. It's not a rocker, but I have a bunch of them in my house and like them.

5 Amp Max. 2 Button RF Switch - 120/277V White - Lutron PD-5S-DV-WH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCEMBIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Jye5xbSNEVZQN

> https://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/dp/B005B0AY0K

YES, I think that's the one!

I use these in a 3-way configuration but the instruction manual had configurations up to 6-way I believe.

Leviton DZ15S-1BZ Decora Smart... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ0WVKH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Paired with:

Leviton DD0SR-DLZ Dual Voltage 120/277VAC Decora Digital/Decora Smart Matching Switch Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AFU1JTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_se6jDb6S0K3JB

Others have explained it, so let me know if you need further explaining.

This is what I'm talking about. I don't endorse these, I just found them in two seconds on amazon. Although this one doesn't even need a battery, it uses piezo electricity from the force of you turning the switch, to generate the signal to send to the other switch turning it on or of. I recommend you browse around amazon for wherever for cheaper one, Ive seen them a lot cheaper then $99.

https://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/dp/B005B0AY0K

Third reality makes a zigbee switch

THIRDREALITY Smart Light Switch (Gen1) - No Wiring Easy Installation, Overlays existing Toggle or Rocker switches. Works with Alexa/Google Home and SmartThings, Hub Required https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079M178GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9D-GDbM5X6YA7

Wemo Insight Ftw!

I don't one myself but you can probably find some smart/connected power meters that works with a Google home or Alexa, etc that stores usage data to your app.

Something like this with energy monitoring runs for 35USD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBXNYCS

Not vaporware, the on-off (non-dimming) version is in stock at Amazon

His initial timeline was hopelessly optimistic. But he's taken responsibility for that.
I've been in product development- delays happen. None of the delays he's posted about were in any way unreasonable. He's now shipping product and his last few time estimates have been mostly accurate.

Fact is, he can't force certain things to happen faster. He has however been very transparent the whole time and (from what I understand) refunded deposits of people who didn't want to wait. Not much more you can do.

I wasn't suggesting OP pre-order anything (I don't even think he's accepting preorders anymore). Rather, from what I've seen, the dimmers should be out late this month / early next month, and that might be a good option for OP.

That switch requires a hub to work.

You may want a wifi-based switch so you don't need a hub:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW15S-1BZ-Universal-Incandescent-Required/dp/B01MU9SH77/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=wifi+light+switch&qid=1555530033&s=lamps-light&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

Edit: I misread your post - you said you're OK with a hub. That opens a big door: Zigbee vs Z-wave vs Wifi vs others. I like Z-wave equipment - 900mhz radios, lots of equipment already out there, stable and reliable communication. Choosing a hub is a different story. Lots of choices, all of them have their ups and downs.

I know there are a lot of opinions out there... but in your case you could use the Wifi switches to get started, then integrate them with a home automation software at a later date (like OpenHAB or Home Assistant).

Great question. I hadn't even thought about that, I use GE switches throughout the house, but I just purchased those here


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074CJ1ZRF/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Zooz Z-Wave Plus On Off Wall Switch ZEN21 (White) VER. 2.0, Works with Existing Regular 3-Way Switch

do they work with their own stuff, or is it home/ smarthings compatible?

these look like they are hot only switches.. I'm more looking for a faux switch basically something that tells the hub. hey turn that light on/off

edit2:
Looking for something like this but a simple switch/dimmer for 1 scene

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW130-WallMote/dp/B01NCEJAOD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506113001&sr=8-1&keywords=wallmote

I use these in a couple spots in my house--no batteries needed for the switches, and you can link multiple switches to one light, or multiple lights to one switch. You just need space in the box at the light.

https://smile.amazon.com/acegoo-Wireless-Relocate-Appliances-Self-Powered/dp/B015E7DTW4

edit: The switches are larger, paddle type. Not ugly, just bigger. For me, the convenience was totally worth it.

>Using an existing light switch to remotely turn on another light

I'm essentially looking for something like this, except instead of using their wall switch/transmitter, I want to use the existing kitchen wall switch. Or possibly daisy chain a transmitter to the kitchen lights. The receiver would hook up to the under cabinet lights.
https://www.amazon.com/acegoo-Wireless-Relocate-Appliances-Self-Powered/dp/B015E7DTW4

Dimmer

Dimmer Add-On

Switch

Switch Add-On

Home Depot Link

The sale at Home Depot right now is really good for them. I used camelcamelcamel and just waited for a price drop on Amazon to buy them all at once. They seem to fluctuate in price quite often.

Eve Light Switch is $48 @ Amazon which seems to be an alltime low.

A couple Wemo devices have been on sale recently at Amazon. The Wemo Dimmer was $59.99 and the Wemo Mini Smart Plug was $23.99. I wouldn't be surprised if they hit those prices again this weekend.

Is the second box a “remote” switch? Meaning, with those switches, in a multi pole situation, only one switch can be a regular switch and the other switches have to be a “remote” switch. It’s a separate sku (cheaper too).

Leviton DD0SR-DLZ Dual Voltage 120/277VAC Decora Digital/Decora Smart Matching Switch Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AFU1JTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ext.zbPAKMGYB

If you have a ST hub it's simple.

Replace both switches with Z-wave or zigbee wall switches. (Something like this)

Then in SmartThings you just configure each to turn on/off when the other is toggled.

These look like the same switch. But $15 cheaper...

Lutron PD-5S-DV-WH 120/277V 5 Amp Max. 2 Button RF Switch, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCEMBIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nbD1BbYK9DEFP

Looks like this switch can be wired up with a regular 3 way in the garage, so maybe this is the way to go.

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCEMBIA/ref=psdc_6291359011_t2_B017LRCG38

Leviton has a 3 way switch solution. You need either of their 600W or 1000W “master” switch, along with a less expensive switch remote that is installed in the second location:

One of these two:
600W: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DH6HD-1BZ-Decora-Dimmer-HomeKit/dp/B06XKC66HD
OR
1000W: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DH1KD-1BZ-Decora-Dimmer-HomeKit/dp/B06XK2BL57

Plus one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DD0SR-DLZ-Voltage-Digital-Matching/dp/B01AFU1JTK

If you're talking about the PD-5WS-DV-WH switch, I bought one from a wholesale website I've never heard of. Wink thinks it's a dimmer, but it works just fine. Anything above 0% is ON.

A couple of those wholesalers are selling it through Amazon now. I also got this two button pico remote to match.

Philips unfortunately hasn't created a smart power outlet. I personally use a Wemo smart plug for devices that I want to turn on or off using Amazon's Alexa. The Wemo outlet cannot dim though and I'm unaware of any smart device/outlet that can dim ordinary lights.

Edit: Looks like Wemo does offer a dimmer now but requires installation.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RFYQFM?ref=emc_b_5_t

Another option is a Wemo plug.

The outlet both monitors electric usage, and can be controlled from your phone or programmed for certain times.

If you don't want to change the wallplate, Zooz (and GE) make a toggle switch that works on z-wave.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A3SBTM6

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14295/dp/B06VYCFXT4

The zooz works with existing 3-way switches without having to buy the add-on that GE does.

You can get z-wave remotes as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW130-WallMote/dp/B01NCEJAOD

Install a light switch guard over the switch.

https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Toggle-Shields/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478112560&sr=8-2&keywords=Light+Switch+Guard

Thats what I have done for switched lights that I'm using smart bulbs with.

There are proper ways to remove a switch in a circuit but without consulting an electrician that's familiar with the code where you live I'd not try to DIY it.

If you just want to have it turn both on and off without worrying about going the Home Automation route with hubs and programming then I would say this is what you need.
https://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/dp/B005B0AY0K

I bought my pro bridge on amazon a while back. It's still available there it seems, https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-L-BDGPRO-WH-Temperatures-Programmed-Triathlon/dp/B00Z8AXQCQ.

I just noticed the on/off switches are available to order on Amazon now, though they’re not in stock until the 19th.

Z-Wave On/Off Switch (Red Series) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T26MVYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_fwaFDbQ70H7QP

If you already have a wall switch, just replace it with a Wifi wall switch, or a Z-Wave one if you already have a smart hub.

WiFi wall switch example:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU9SH77/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fYu3Db9GHH5F8

There’s no hazard per se by putting a WiFi switch in line with the physical switch, it’s just kind of limiting.

I think you're looking for something like this https://www.amazon.com/acegoo-Wireless-Relocate-Appliances-Self-Powered/dp/B015E7DTW4/

Rather than sending the signal to the old switch, it adds a receiver at the fixture with a switch. So you'd leave your old switch always on.

No batteries required: the transmitter uses the kinetic energy from flipping the switch and the receiver gets power off the line.

Disclosure: I haven't tried this exact problem but found this kind of product while working on a similar issue, you can just search for "rf transmitter light switch"

We call those wire nuts here. Here is the Leviton that I bought

Leviton DW15S-1BZ Decora Smart Wi-Fi 15A Universal LED/Incandescent Switch, No Hub Required, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU9SH77/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v8GmzbCXWKP73

It looks like I'm missing the red wire. Am I getting this all wrong?

http://i.imgur.com/3VweV12.jpg

I use these.. a little ugly, but they work with the amazon echo plus without a hub, or with any zigbee compatible hub for google home (I am using it with wink) they take 2 AA batteries and mount on the switchplate to manually toggle the switch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079M178GW

​

Switch guards which screw onto the switch plate are available. They are made such that you cannot accidentally flip a switch but must make an effort to do so. Probably a better option than bypassing the switch.

https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guard-Clear-Toggle/dp/B00DTXKOTM

Aeotec by Aeon Labs ZW130-A WallMote Quad
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCEJAOD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xLhIAb01C1JFD


ZRC-90US, BW8510US, by Remotec, Cert ID: ZC10-15100007
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016YTTIVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MMhIAbWNA3TM2

Or this

https://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/dp/B005B0AY0K

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJY0S4G/ref=mp_s_a_1_37?ie=UTF8&qid=1467694453&sr=8-37&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wireless+light+switch

https://m.canadiantire.ca/#/products/productDetail/0527544P/false/false/false?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=SearchVoice&utm_source=RatingsAndReviews&utm_content=Default&quantity=1

https://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/dp/B005B0AY0K

You are correct about the GE switch setup. If you get a Zooz switch, it can use a regular switch as the additional switches instead of needing to buy add on switches. Depending on how your fixtures are wired that may not work for you since it requires a non conventional setup. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074CJ1ZRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qXvWAb7VW4PZV

I've been on the lookout for this exact thing. The closest thing I've found would be to put an Aeotec Dual Nano Switch in the box behind the receptacles, with the two receptacles separated and one on each output from the Aeotec switch.

I haven't actually tried setting this up myself yet, though, so take all of this with a grain of salt.

Got WiFi in the garage? You could plug in one of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBXNYCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mWnYAbKP35VYZ

It will track the electricity you use, and you can even set the price and have it export it to email at the end of the month.

http://imgur.com/bwJXcMR

Boom

This is what I use.

Z Wave led controller

Lutron's RF PD-5S-DV-WH and Caseta PD-5WS-DV-WH switches do not require a neutral for most applications.

these work with Phillips hue , I’ve tried them out myself and going to be using them in a bookshelf project that I’m building this weekend

Absolutely. There are many choices for switches with dimmers that can be used with automation. Here's one, but there are quite a few.

https://www.amazon.com/Dimmer-Light-Switch-Google-Assistant/dp/B071RFYQFM

What do you intend to use for the automation? (Alexa, smartthings, Google...)

This may do the job for you. I have never used it, but it seems tailor-made for this situation:

https://www.amazon.com/acegoo-Wireless-Relocate-Appliances-Self-Powered/dp/B015E7DTW4

Also try over at /r/homeautomation and perhaps /r/smarthome. Lots of brainy people over at those two subs, so if there is a another way to do this, they probably know about it.

Move the sub and invest in switch covers

Check this out then!
https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Toggle-Shields/dp/B00DTXKOTM

Here ya go!
https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guard-Clear-Toggle/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500206942&sr=8-4&keywords=switch+guard

This is the on/off switch: 5 Amp Max. 2 Button RF Switch - 120/277V White - Lutron PD-5S-DV-WH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCEMBIA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_9LRpO3dF8vuUH

Let me Google that for you

Get a light switch guard.

They make ones for rocker switches also.

Search for Shabbat light switch cover. You will find a bunch of options. For instance:

https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Toggle/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=shabbat+light+switch+cover&qid=1570197758&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Rocker/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=shabbat+light+switch+cover&qid=1570197758&sr=8-14

This will probably be the cheapest option.

I used Wemo

Also: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DTXKOTM/ref=pd_aw_sim_75_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41LJmyLXpBL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C67_&refRID=1TG5SVHVG6V1V98SN8HS

This is where I saw the pro2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z8AXQCQ/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
Probably nothing to it - but a different model # ?

The 3-ways can be used in a single setup just by capping the runner wire. I don't have any of them in 3-way setups; the one 3-way I do have I converted to a single-switch and then a wireless remote at the other end.

If you look at the picture at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NCEMBIA (which is what I have) then the blue is the runner and can be capped off. The "tabs" on either side snap off to reduce the size so they fit into a multi-gang.

price history

Amazon seemed to have a decent price on the PRO at $112.

This was way cheaper than replacing each Lutron Caseta switch with an Inovelli no neutral switch.

I wish I could have just gone Inovelli no neutral, but I have 5 to replace and that would have been around $175 plus taxes.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z8AXQCQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got you fam. I know you already returned them but Lutron makes switches that don't require a neutral. They're not exactly cheap but they work, they're just simple on/off switches.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NCEMBIA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do you know if this switch allows that? I ordered that with my ST. I have another one of those but not dim-able on my front porch light.

Depending how big the light fixture is, you could put in a remote. The fixture needs a big enough base to hide the receiver/relay box. Or you could hang it out the side (not the proper way to do it, but would work)https://www.amazon.com/Acegoo-Wireless-Lights-Switch-Kit/dp/B015E7DTW4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484326996&sr=8-4&keywords=wireless+remote+light+switch

I'm considering buying this plug to try out, it's supposedly rated for 1800 W and has a smartphone app that shows the consumption:

https://www.amazon.com/Insight-Monitoring-Enabled-Anywhere-Assistant/dp/B01DBXNYCS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524980691&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wemo+insight

Otherwise, I would just try to charge when empty and use the total capacity of the battery as a rough estimate. So, for a fully empty 2015, it's going to need about 11 kWh. Divide that by .85 to account for about 85% efficiency of the charger, and multiply that by $0.11/kWh and you have $1.42. So you would owe your roommate $1.42 per full charge.

Since you have a gen 2, I believe that uses 14 kWh of battery, so we're at $1.81 per charge. It's really too bad Chevy doesn't report actual kWh charge amounts, would be really useful for this kind of stuff. Apparently the OBD2 readers can pull that out so that might be worth a Google too.

The only other alternative I have been able to find is RealitySwitch. The main differences are:

1)RealitySwitch requires a hub/Alexa (which you said you can use) whereas Switchmate uses Bluetooth and is spotty on working with a hub/Alexa.
&
2)RealitySwitch uses the existing plate screws of the light switch to 'install' it over said light switch whereas Switchmate uses magnets to connect to the plate screws to 'install' it over said light switch.

If you really aren't allowed to remove (and put back on) the plate in order to use the plate screws to attach the RealitySwitch I would consider using some strong double sided tape. I've read other reviews on this being used for installation.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079M178GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_4yryCbYJB75EH

I use these for Switch guards and they work great:
Dual Option Wall Switch Guards (3 Pack) Clear Toggle Style https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rqy-AbP3AFFQ6

Otherwise like you said, people always turn the switches off.

Power being off is trickier. I get notices other things are offline, but that could be just my internet and/or that device being dumb.

The 500-mV controller for our fireplace was so weird I wound up ordering an overlay switch that leaves everything intact and up to code.

Someone told me about a code for fireplaces that limits how far remote controls are allowed to operate (20 ft?) because of the risk of leaving it unattended.

Ours only adjusts levels by another knob that isn't on the remote, so I'm not sure what sort of stepper-motor-controller interface you have in mind for alexa. It'd have to be DIY bc I don't know of anything marketed for that yet. But the IoT is filling out very quickly.

https://www.amazon.com/acegoo-Wireless-Relocate-Appliances-Self-Powered/dp/B015E7DTW4/


I'd check these out if you want a more traditional on the wall switch without having to pull wire.

The module wires into the box where the light is and the switch is stuck anywhere using double sided tape. No wires needed to the switch.
No batteries to worry about at the switch either. Clicking it effectively generates a short radio pulse that the module picks up.


Used these in a friend's basement to tie a bunch of individual pull chain lights to a single switch. Worked nicely.

None.

SOJM is home-hosted on this Raspberry Pi stack and is hooked up to this power-measuring smart switch which, unfortunately, has a capacitive switch that's super-sensitive and can be toggled with the lightest brush.

In this case, the switch was brushed "off" without my knowledge (probably by the dog or cat this time), and I brought it online after someone brought it to my attention as soon as I could.

Because the service is home-hosted, any home Internet outages or power outages that outlast the UPS battery-backup that the stack is hooked up to will also cause the service to go down. In other words, while the service is usually up, it's not so crazy that it goes down every once in a while.

I could probably add a service status indicator to future versions of the script so that the cause of the problem when it happens is more visible, but I've been super-busy with programming contracts and haven't really worked on mTurk or any of the tools I've made for it in months.

Interesting!

It sound reasonable but many things are not designed go be plugged in the "proper way" in that case.

Many plugs with the grounding pin have it on the "Bottom" because if it were to be plugged in the opposite way it would kind of pull itself out of the socket, if you know what a I mean?

Like long, heavy, and odd shaped plugs.

Also, a Weemo (wifi plug) for example, has the on/off button and status light on the wrong side. As in, if the grounding pin was plugged into the top you cannot see if it's powered on of off!

(The example: https://www.amazon.com/Insight-Monitoring-Enabled-Anywhere-Assistant/dp/B01DBXNYCS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1520200560&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=wemo&psc=1)

That's an easy enough problem to fix, no? I bought a 9-pack of these and put them on the switches that control smart lights:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTXKOTM

They have tabs on the side that can be removed, so they can either be installed in "impossible to flip without poking a pencil through the hole" or "can be flipped from the side but you can't flip them accidentally".

There are other kinds available, such as those that cover the flat type of switches, larger ones that can cover dimmer sliders and other bulkier things, low profile ones that don't cover the switch but just prevent it from moving, etc.

Personally I live alone, so I just knocked out one of the two tabs on each so that I won't hit them accidentally, but I can still flip them if I need to.

no. I'm referring to switches, not dimmers. I've used two different Lutron ones:

• PD-5... - https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5S-DV-WH-Button-Switch-White/dp/B00NCEMBIA/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550682766&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=PD5+lutron
  
• PD-6... - https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH-Assistant/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550682899&sr=8-3&keywords=lutron+switch
  
  One has two black wires, the other has a red for the load.
  
  ​
  
  ​

take your salary, and the salary of everyone in that room, multiply it by the 5 times you know this is going to happen. I bet it's more than the cost of an electrician for half an hour. If your accounting is totally incompetent, the $3 solution is a switch cover: https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Toggle/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=covered+switch&qid=1555082181&s=gateway&sr=8-11

​

This is a business issue 100%. At Joe user's desk is one thing, at a conference room facility, it's stupid to be set up this way. And it's laughable that someone would come to Reddit trying to woe is me my users are idiots when they can't see this.

I have two choices for you.

If you have a neutral, this one has the motion sensor in the switch and uses IR and ultrasound:
Leviton OSSMT-MDW Ultrasonic/Infrared, Dual-Relay Multi-Technology Wall Switch sensor, 2400 Sq. Ft Major & 400 Sq. Ft Minor Motion Coverage, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DA4NY8/

Don't have a neutral? Or the switch isn't in a good place to detect motion? No problem:
Buy a motion sensor:
Lutron LRF2-OCR2B-P-WH Radio Powr Savr Wireless Ceiling-Mounted Occupancy/Vacancy Sensor, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LPET0G/

And a switch it will pair to:
5 Amp Max. 2 Button RF Switch - 120/277V White - Lutron PD-5S-DV-WH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCEMBIA/

This switch doesn't require a neutral.

Is it on the same switch as the table light?

If so, you have two options

1. Cap it. Its no big deal. [You can do it yourself.] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XuUZakt2U1w) You just have to turn off the breaker so you don't have any juice running to it.
   
   
2. Install a bypass on/off and install a better looking light fixture If you did this, you'd essentially have a separate control for just that ceiling light. So say you wanted a bunch of light to clean the room by...you turn on the switch with the chandelier and then click the switch for the other ceiling light.
   
   Realistically, it would be better to have the switch in the chandelier, but in your case, it would be simpler to just put it in the other light when replacing the light.
   
   I'm not really sure what person decided a bulb hanging on a cable is an appealing asthetic...but they should be slapped. Cus that nonsense is fugly

I just ordered one of these to play with. Would meet your needs but over kill possible. I understand they come in a double also