Unfortunately, this design will have zero impact on PM2.5 pollution levels, which is what causes most of the long term health problems.

The data sheet for the suggested 3M Filtrete filters clearly states that they do not filter PM2.5 pollution. The MPR 2200 is designed to handle PM2.5 pollution, but it's only rated to remove 94% of particles per pass, compared to 99% for a proper HEPA filter. Additionally, this type of filter will have a high flow resistance, requiring a larger and noisier fan for a given air flow. So swapping to a properly rated filter is still going to result in a system that's only good for very small volumes.

A good air purifier needs three things: A way to accurately measure pollution levels, a HEPA filter capable of filtering 2.5µm particles, and a fan capable of recirculating sufficient air for the intended space.

A laser PM2.5 sensor costs $29. A HEPA+activated charcoal filter costs $95. A fan with sufficient static pressure to work with the filter and circulate enough air for a small room, with electronics, is about $76. There's probably $10 in a micro-controller and associated electronics to integrate the PM2.5 sensor with the fan, and then another $20-30 for a robust enclosure. So to build something that actually works will cost a minimum of about $220-230 USD.

To pay for assembly labour, and other overheads associated with manufacturing, certification, and support, a rule of thumb is to multiply the material costs by 2.5. Economies of scale can sometimes bring this down, but it's usually a good estimate. So to purchase a functional air purifier, you should expect to pay around $550 USD.

It shouldn't surprise anyone then that the ~900 RMB air purifiers produced by companies like Xiaomi "Leaves air unsafe for 86% of the time".

I did a thing again.

​

I love Dynavap. I love Nintendo from my childhood. I found a way to combine them. The rough steps I used are:

​

1. Chassis: Disassemble the NES Advantage. (guide). Clean all of the parts in warm, soapy water, because joystick is probably gross after 30+ years.
   
2. Joystick: Take out the joystick. Slice off the "stick" part of the joystick with a dremel. Slice half of the bottom off with a dremel (to make room for the induction heater power supply). Drill 2 holes for the induction coil wire to pass through.
   
3. PCB: You want to retain the PCB so that all of the buttons on the controller can still be pressed. They will be non-operational, but still fun to press. You need to replace A/B button switches. Use momentary switches; I used 2 spare mechanical keyboard switches (Kailh Box Navy), because I'm a keyboard nerd and like switches that are clicky as hell. In any case, drill the PCB to make room for the switches.
   
4. A/B buttons: The plastic stem of the A/B buttons probably will not be the right height for your new switches. Use a dremel to shave off the plastic stem until it is the right height for your switches.
   
5. Induction Coil Power Supply: Bend the two "coils" off to the side. You will likely need to cut the copper coils going to the PCB, and re-solder them back on. The coils will not have enough "slack" to allow you to bend them without modification. Once done, the two coils fit perfectly in two of the joystick mounting posts.
   
6. Power: Install a 12V DC input jack; install an on/off switch for main power.
   
   

   Parts List
   

   
   

• (O) = Optional; (R) = Required
  
• (R) Heating: Induction Heater power supply & coil ($13)
  
• (R) Glass Stem: Cloupor Cloutank M3 Pyrex Glass($4)
  
• (R) Power Delivery: MOSFET trigger module 400W / 15A ($7) <-- you can find this for $1 on eBay; but delivery takes 1 month.
  
• (R) DC Input jack: DC Input jack 5.5mm x 2.1mm, 10 pack ($11)
  
• (R) Switch (operating on/off): [Momentary push button switch]. I chose to use 2 Cherry-clone mechanical keyboard switches.
  
• (R) Power Supply Unit: Kastar 12V 6A Power supply (link). Thank you /u/crossfires for the recommendation! Works beautifully!
  
• (O) Switch (main power, only DC or batteries): On/off toggle ($3) <-- Look for any switch that is single-pole single-throw (SPST) toggle switch. Buy this switch if only using 1 power source. Buy the switch below if you are using both DC power and batteries.
  
• (O) Terminal block: 6-position terminal strip blocks ($12 for 10-pack)
  
  ​
  
  

  Miscellaneous parts:
  

  
  

• Electrical wire
  
• Electrical tape
  
• Various screws, nuts, bolts, etc.
  
• Craft glue
  
• Sandpaper
  
• Scrap craft wood / boards (you can buy this at home depot or craft shops. Look for 1/4" craft wood boards; about $10 per large board)
  
• Tools used: Screwdriver | wire stripper | needle-nose pliers | hacksaw | dremel/rotary tool | soldering iron | drill | drill bits and spade bits Wire everything up, close up the chassis, and you're good to go.
  
  ​
  
  ​

H-Bridge (for the UNO there are also shields)

Sensors e.g. this / that though you can also get tctr5000 modules for cents elsewhere.

And note that if you are not set on a line-follower, the kit you've chosen already includes the ultrasonic distance sensor which is nie for robotic projects as well :-)

Do you have a soldering iron and multimeter? Even a cheap $4 multimeter is fine for low-current & low-voltage tasks, and makes your life easier (checking voltages, connections, resistor values...)

As for a soldering iron, even a $1 will do (if it doesn't burn down your house ;-) ) - but an adjustable temperature one will be more worthwhile. Even a $20 soldering station will do to get started if you don't want to spend $80-$100. I tried to avoid soldering for years, and it was a big mistake. It's actually easy and useful.


And another note: The 2wd and 4wd chars will not always go in a straight line. Motors don't run 100% in sync, even at the same voltage.

With a rotary encoder you can ajust the speed in software. You can use one of those IR reflective sensors modules, or a gap sensor, or even a hall sensor... example


You can also get 2wd kits example, but overall, they aren't as great of a value (and as you can see, they just include the standard modules)

A "sensor shield" like in that kit is nice though as it reduces the wiring chaos a bit :-) They cost $1 for the UNO at Aliexpress, probably more expensive at Amazon.

Never used for charcuterie but I have set up coolers with Peltiers. It's easier to buy one with the ducting installed already (like a Coleman type 12v unit) and wire in a good temp controller (my lab needed tight +/- 2C (not super tight)) temp control. I used something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Wagan-12V-Cooler-Warmer-Capacity/dp/B00NHBYOA6/ and wired in something like this to control the temp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8BD8H6/

Something like this would effectively be drop-in for a stock motors, as it can use the low voltage and can tolerate up to 10A. You wouldn't really have an easy way of making sure it goes exactly from 3 to 12 DPS, but it'd work. Those are very simple and pretty self-explanatory; just put it in between your source and your motor and you're g2g.

If you plan on putting higher stall current motors then you'll need to spec out a module that can handle it, but a quick google search tells me you can easily find up to 100A RC ESCs for relatively cheap, but typically RC ESCs don't come with their own pot, so you might have to source one. Just read the documentation for any ESC you plan on purchasing and it should be simple enough. This is what I would highly recommend if you have little to no electronics experience.

If you feel like having more control over the components (and the room they occupy) then you can easily make your own motor controller with a Mosfet and a digital control signal, but you'll need a bit more knowledge.

This is a shitty diagram I cobbled together that shows how you'd wire in a Mosfet to control the pusher speed without hindering the active braking that prevents runout and overshooting. Edit; I forgot it on the diagram, but you'd also need a flyback diode on the motor!

In that diagram, you'd also need an additional module that outputs a PWM signal at the 'Pin 5V' label. That PWM can either come from a smaller PWM module or an Arduino. If you want to use a module then you could use a pulse generator or low-power motor controller (like the first one I linked or even cheaper than that) since those are pretty much just PWM generators with a driver component already attached. Just find something that can generate a square wave with a variable duty-cycle (on-time). Again, though, you'd have limited control on exact DPS.

Personally though I'd go with an Arduino, since then you could tune your DPS to exactly what you want (if you're fancy enough with your code, you can even use the signal from the pusher interruptor switch to check the actual DPS and ensure is auto-adjust and stays consistent even if you swap out battery voltages for example.)

No need to paypal, please just post your results! Success or failure, we want to see, learn and maybe help! Going straight from one battery to another poses the same problem as going from solar to battery directly. Little or no control. You can get basic buck down constant current constant voltage power supplies that would work with these. Again, they won't be smart and may have some ripple in their voltage, but they should work as long as you input the right stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE5P33M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_G9NHzbZ3YAENK. Be super careful, watch and measure voltage regularly, and set the voltage conservatively low to start. I'd start at 3.7 volts per cell. Best of luck!

This can be accomplished with a voltage converter and a voltage regulator design for solar power for less than fifteen bucks

EDIT: People wanted details.

Batteries, panel, wiring, tools, housings, not included.

There's a bunch of better guides online, but the main components are a voltage converter, and a charge controller to get your pi powered by battery while charging the battery with what solar is available.

I think their product requires more investment than that little hat, personally. Do you think that little thing is going to step down 12v-5v with good heat management? I don't think it handles power conversion, and there might be something else in the line before it, like a regulator. Maybe you need their 12v battery.

But like any kickstarter, no guarantee on delivery of product, or features so be skeptical.

(looking for guide that I used...)

Ok. This one would work with 6V.

I know it seems like an overengineered solution, and it is for what you need it for, but it's less than $10, it'll work forever, and it will work fantastically. And you can transfer it to another motor if you ever need to.

The wiring on the part is simple: two wires for battery + - and two wires for motor + -. You'll never have to mess with it again. Comes with an on/off switch, and a nice knob to get a full range of speeds from your motor from 0% - 100% (not that you really want/need it).

This method of controlling the speed of a normal (DC) motor is the best way of doing it for a lot of reasons. It would normally not be recommended just to get something up and running, but at $8, it's hard to justify not.

This product does exist, though most of the ones I've seen are sold in Europe, where the situation you describe is apparently more common.

But there are at least two or three manufacturers making these using various protocols. On a quick search, this is the only one I can find though. Elgato Eve Thermo - App enabled Thermostatic Radiator Valve. This works with Apple's HomeKit, which is a good system for someone who doesn't need a lot of complexity and isn't planning to really dive into home automation--but only if you're already in the Apple ecosystem or want to be.

Since you want temp sensors to talk to the radiator valves, you need at least a bare-bones control system for your valves and sensors. There are many options for the system to do what you want and much more, but I encourage you to NOT jump at the first thing recommended without doing all your research to understand what the end-user experience is like with any system you're considering.

Some systems require a LOT of technical knowledge, others very little. Some systems do a LOT, and some very little. Some systems guard your privacy, others turn you into a product. You have to choose the one that's right for you.

That said, the right system for me is Indigo. I would never use anything else as the central control system. But is it right for you? I have no idea. And neither does anyone else here blithely recommending what they use.

That's because I don't know what your technical skills and preferences are, what you need to do, what your budget is, and how much things like local execution and privacy mean to you. Hint: Alexa doesn't care about your privacy.

The two power supplies as far as the peltiers 'see' is the same thing as having one big one. I do think it may prove to be simpler wiring this way though, as you don't really want to mess with a bigger gauge wire than 8. I agree 8-10 is fine for this, I wouldn't go smaller. Make sure everything is fused.

Just think about what happens if the peltier gets too hot, would be good to have a way to trip the system and prevent things from going bad fast. The good news is thermal switches are not that expensive
edit: I think these are all normally-closed, you can select the temp you need. Make sure to analyze whether you need a normally-closed or normally-open switch for how you want to trip your system.

these ones are only rated for 5A, would be nice to have a few in paralell that could trip the whole unit off at a certian level - if it was a computer power supply you could use a bunch of normally-closed ones in series and use that on the pin that allows the PSU to turn on. Can also have one for each peltier and they can turn themselves on and off dynamically.

Awesome man. I cannot tell you how cool I find all this. Science!

Here is what I have purchased so far.

12v 6a 72w power supply

ZVS Heater and Coil Combo

Switch. Can hold up to 20amps not sure that mattters whatever, room for extra isn't bad.

[Glass Tube]I DELETED THIS AS WHAT I HAD HERE IS TOO BIG! DO NOT BUY THE GUITAR SLIDE I HAD LISTED! NEW TUBE. I ordered this from China on a Thursday, let's see how long it takes to get here.

So, I would just be missing the mosfet and momentary switches that you have. Do you find them necessary? I might just buy the mosfet and momentary for peace of mind, but I did see a couple build that avoided the mosfet for simplicity's sake. This build seems to have avoided one.

Any further advice (wire gauge, soldering tips, etc)? I am currently looking for a good box to put it all in. Thanks again for the reply.

EDIT - MOSFET

Momentary Buttons

Mounting things for the momentary buttons

IF ANYONE IS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE, CONSIDER USING A 120W POWER SUPPLY. I DO NOT REALLY UNDERSTAND BUT SUPPOSEDLY IT MATTERS.

I've been teaching myself Python & C (well, the Arduino variant), IoT stuff (Arduino stuff, Node-RED, MQTT as a communication bus, etc), and have always been interested in networking...and this all meshes together wonderfully! At the moment in addition to the pihole project, I run a local wiki (dokuwiki), which is a surprisingly useful thing to have on your LAN too. Oh, and NTP properly configured to exchange locally among all the Linux boxes (with the primary external connection being time-c.nist.gov via a pfsense-based router).

The Raspberry Pi as a small GNU/Linux Debian computer is an amazing piece of kit for the price...

If you have any interest in programming, robotics, etc I'd highly recommend adding another ~$10 in parts to your Raspberry Pi:

Something like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SL0U3RG

with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01981EBBA

Or: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UACD13Q

You'll soon be buying soldering irons, and LEDs, and relays, and actuators, and sensors...oh my...

You can drive I/O through the Raspberry Pi's GPIO of course, but then it's tied up in some physical monster and you can't take advantage of the TREMENDOUS depth and breadth of the Arduino as an environment.

You can undervolt a fan, but most stutter and stall out at around 50%, without enough power to keep the blades moving. With something this loud, I'd guess that's still not going to be enough.

I'd actually recommend making or buying a PWM controller. They work by rapidly turning the fan on and off, changing the ratio to adjust the speed. Because it's always at full voltage, you never get the stalling issue at low speeds. They're also pretty efficient.

Insulation

Controller

High temp silicone

Supply cord

Thermometer

Elements

Insulation adhesive

So, this setup is certainly not perfect and has the potential for uneven heat disbursement but it has worked well for me.

I drilled 3 holes about 3 inches from the bottom of the cabinet for the heating elements and used thin aluminum stock cross members to support them. The holes were sealed with silicon which also helps keep the elements in place.

The entire inside of the cabinet has a layer of cut-to-fit insulation and the seams are taped with high temp flue tape.

I have 2 threaded steel rods running horizontally and offset for hanging parts.

The thermometer is at the top and generally runs a large number of degrees cooler than the parts but I have a good feel for time and tackiness when flashing and layering. I prefer longer cure times at lower temperatures. You can cure this stuff at 150 degrees if you want...it just takes a hell of a lot longer.

The rest of the stuff is just wired up and I'm sure its a huge fire hazard and I have zero experience with this kind of thing but it has worked for me so far without a problem. It's set up in my garage with tons of ventilation and a fire extinguisher close by.

Such a component really sounds like and generally is a pie in the sky, but it may already exist, some cordless drills have a packaged trigger assembly that is exactly that, a physical trigger, a pot/encoder or the like, and a (generally DC) motor controller all in one module. Most more modern drills even do active braking when not driving, so that would work as a drop-in as long as you don't have cycle control.

Edit: Example

Nice work. Did you know there are traffic light sequencers that will change the lights automatically just like a real traffic light? I linked to one, but there are many different ones available. It would really be a nice finishing touch.

I suggest getting a Motor Shield. AdaFruit has a good one, and so does the arduino store. I picked up a very good one for cheap on amazon. SainSmart L293D Motor Drive Shield Motor shields do require a second power supply though.

I have wired an L298n to a stepper motor using an Arduino before, however, this time I wanted to use this PWM generator with a pot and some buttons already integrated into it: https://www.amazon.com/15-160V-Adjustable-Controller-Generator-Regulator/dp/B07HNSVMVH/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=stepper+pwm&qid=1572015567&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&sr=8-2#customerReviews

I haven't found any tutorials for this and I am not too well versed in electronics to understand how to hook it all up. Any help is much appreciated!!

Yes, this shield supports up to 4 DC motors. What type of DC motors do you have? Specs?


They should ship to Australia.


Amazon also sells a similar shield made by SainSmart (http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-L293D-Shield-Arduino-Duemilanove/dp/B00813HBBO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369849137&sr=8-2&keywords=motor+shield). It's essentially the same design (since Adafruit's design is open source), just cheaper. I have one, but I have yet to test it to see if it is any different than Adafruit's. I'll report back later those results. If there is no difference, then you can save $8 on Amazon!

See the links below for my stuff, not sure what the still dragon stuff is, that seems super cheap for what you get, I’d like to see pictures.

Layout
https://i.imgur.com/8MD9PDm.jpg
Some of it may be overkill or unnecessary, but hey.

PWM
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J3JVLM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VvSQBbPVZZ1Y4

Switches
Like these (toggles rated for 20A)
https://www.grainger.com/product/POWER-FIRST-Toggle-Switch-2VLN5

Stick one of these on there, so the switch powers the speed control and the speed control drives the motor.

Then you'll have an adjustable speed control and the regular switch. Pretty good for ten bucks.

EDIT: even cheaper

Just test it with the power supply before hooking it up to batteries? Still a good idea to have a fuse and some kind of current limiter, either resistive or one of those Drok board you can get on Amazon for $10.

If you want something a bit more straight forward Hobbyking has a packaged device that does the same and more... can’t find a link, I’ll post one when I find it.

Sure, here's the controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BXUCWQG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The bridge rectifier:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1GEZHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And the replacement potentiometer, although you don't really need this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AA5OIFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And yes, this eliminates the control board, this is now your control. You'll also need a 30a power switch and an electrical box to put all this in. I had a switch am fabricating the box.

I'm not sure about #1, but for #2, you're looking for jumper cables. These let you plug in components to the arduio/breadboard without having to solder. The eBay listing is a great deal, but you can buy them at Fry's Electronics if you have one local to you(also, the eBay link is from a Chinese seller, which could take a long time to get to you).

EDIT: I just took a look at the link you posted, and in the questions section there are people asking about how to power the shield and what kind of solutions they used.

Something like this should work.

If your battery is 100 amp hour, and your fan draws 5 amps it will last 20 hours(in theory).

Yeah I'm thinking the same thing. I did a little research and apparently Chinese fakes are very common with this particular converter and they don't work with the legit drivers or windows 8/8.1/10.

I ordered a 2102 as well. Thanks!

using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F839VNQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A298K45OP416LP&psc=1 between the input and the relays would work?

I like the simplicity of the resistor idea but It's hard to tell how hot its going to get or what speed a particular ohm value is going to reduce it to until its all said and done.

hey man, about to build my first heater tomorrow, I have a list of parts I ordered based on several threads and stuff you and others recommend I came up with this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060U92FS/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NCKQFW/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G00GHQY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNSO3OM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


aside from wires, a box and tools (Ill get tomorrow from work)

am I set or do I need anything else, also if any of those things I bought incomatible?

That's helpful. The relays are rated 10A t0 12A so the current is less than I'd assumed. I mean it should be less than the rating of the relay... big assumption, perhaps. It puts the current in the range of some low voltage PWM speed controllers sold on Amazon. My concern is the lower voltage is 6V and you need it to run down to 5-5.5V will it work? https://www.amazon.com/RioRandTM-Upgraded-6V-90V-Motor-Controller/dp/B00F839VNQ Better than a resistor if i works, depends on how much of a project you want to make of it.

Something like this?

Just to throw another option out there - I use 12v bilge blower fans (similar to: SEAFLO 4" In-Line Marine Bilge Air Blower 12V 270 CFM Quiet Boat White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166S2PA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SscDCbTQMY3Y9). If you go with a 4" you can just use dryer vent to get it outside. You can also put a motor adjustment switch on it (12V Motor Speed Controller, DROK DC Motor Driver Board for Brush Motor 7V-60V 20A 420W PWM Control 12V 24V 36V 48V Regulator Cooling Fans Dimmer Governor Pulse Width Modulator with Adjust Knob https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DVGGWC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vvcDCbXK0FE4Z). These move a lot of air, which could help depending on the size of your run, etc.

I use this to control the heating coils:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OZ5MBM6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

I have a HF router control on a shop vac as a blower, I can roast 250 grams at a time, and could probably do more if I built a larger chamber. My roast this afternoon hit first crack at 8:07 and ended at 12 minutes.

If you're interested in the Raspberry Pi route, look up the ELF roaster. It uses a breakout board for the thermocouple and an SSR to cycle the coil on and off. You can download the software from the developers blog.

Something like this?

Something like this I would think, you will just need to search out one rated for your voltage req. RioRand™ Upgraded 6V-90V 15A DC Motor Pump Speed Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F839VNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TuI3Db0B6842P

Something like this should work. Just don't turn it past 60% or so.

Lots of people dont use controllers. have a couple thermometers to see where to cut your heads and tails. Its pretty simple stuff.

Edit: These can help but are not required
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Electronic-Regulator-Governor-Thermostat/dp/B00BXUCWQG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1373347764&sr=1-1&keywords=110v+ac+scr

You don't really have to adjust voltage. A PWM speed controller can be used for the same purpose (adjusting average voltage) and they're much cheaper. A 10A PWM speed controller can be purchased from Amazon for $11 shipped. Most of them will output in the same voltage you supply.

https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-trade-Upgraded-6V-90V-Controller/dp/B00F839VNQ

I had a request for info about this today, and it's not the first. So here's as much documentation of what I did. I'M NOT RECOMMENDING THS, BUT IT WORKS GREAT FOR ME, JUST DON'T SUE ME IF YOU DIE BECAUSE I POSTED A PICTURE ONLINE.

​

I used this controller, but I should have bought the 120v version: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZ5MBM6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I used 14g wire with connectors from Lowe's and apparently didn't care about + or - when I was wiring it. Ground loops to ground because the controller doesn't have a ground. And I know what's going on using the kill-a-watt (also from amazon.

Also maybe you can ssh/vnc or use tx/rx pins with some uart usb adapter to it then use this:

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/usb-to-vga-adapter?rmvSB=true

then with xrandr change screen output to that usb2vga

This might work to control the speed on an ac motor. It claims to be able to provide 4000 watts max.

This motor controller!

Here you go

This?
https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-trade-Upgraded-6V-90V-Controller/dp/B00F839VNQ

internal shot

Parts list:

• Pelican 1120 Case
  
  
• Induction Coil Module
  
  
  
• Mosfet
  
  
  
• Momentary Switch
  
  
• Power indicator light
  
  
• Toggle Switch
  
  
• Power Supply
  
  
• Glass Test Tube
  
  Tools:
  
  
• Glass Cutter
  
  
• Connectors I only used 2 of the prong connectors for the toggle switch
  
  STL for 3d printing:
  
  All three files
  
  Wiring diagram:
  
  Terrible MS paint Diagram

Would this work for you?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EERJDY4/

this http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-70108-Tracked-Vehicle-Chassis/dp/B00061HHTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367962437&sr=8-1&keywords=arduino+tank
this http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Double-Gearbox-Independ-4-Speed/dp/B000C8F802/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367962437&sr=8-2&keywords=arduino+tank
and thishttp://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-L293D-Shield-Arduino-Duemilanove/dp/B00813HBBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367962500&sr=8-1&keywords=adafruit+motor+shield

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011AQCDLG

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Controller-Regulator-Modulator-Indicator/dp/B00DVGGWC0

https://www.amazon.com/Minger-Supply-Adapter-Transformer-Flexible/dp/B01AJQ9G2C

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Regulator-Controller-Temperature-Governor/dp/B00BXUCWQG/ref=pd_day0_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BXUCWQG&pd_rd_r=RHDVTMHJAVMYQ4SCW7R1&pd_rd_w=bCbon&pd_rd_wg=JacZ0&psc=1&refRID=RHDVTMHJAVMYQ4SCW7R1

There's another. $20 ish.

No problem! I just got mine wired up and used one of these to control the speed and it worked fantastically! I recommend them highly!

No worries, sounds like you only have the cell right now. I'll skip all the safety stuff but I will say, if you aren't absolutely positive what you are doing, stop. The lowly NA outlet has a tremendous current surge rating. You'll die and never know it. Before continuing, you do absolutely need to know your outlet is wired correctly and you'll want to confirm which part of your circuit is the live or hot wire.

Do you need AC or DC to operate your cell? If you can operate it on AC, you'll only need a heavy 3 prong power cord, the circuit board in the link above and a fuse holder and fuse rated for the power input required.

If you need DC then you'll also need a bridge rectifier rated (guessing) 35 amps.

Since you don't yet know the actual circuit current, you'll need some device to monitor the incoming power. Here is what I'd do:

1. Fill the cell with whatever fluid you plan on using.
   
2. Connect the cell to a low voltage power supply (automotive battery charger).
   
3. Measure operating voltage and current. This is a basic sanity check before trying to shove big power through this thing. You'll need to confirm that your battery charger is actually outputting 12 volts into the cell.
   
4. If all is well, ( your battery charger was able to output 12 volts DC (you measured it right) into the cell withoutA destruction) Then prepare the real deal.
   
5. Disregard everything I've said because one minor fault with electricity and water will kill you.
   
6. Connect heavy power cord with fuse in the line or hot side of power cord usually a black or brown wire. You'll need to figure this out.
   
7. Connect other side of fuse to the switching device above or better. The link I listed if likely not an ideal unit after further review. Similar devices from amazon are probably suitable for testing or experimentation.
   
8. Connect to to your cell.
   
   Before plugging this death trap into the wall, confirm you have a 2-5 amp fast blow fuse Installed in the fuse holder. We only want to initially tickle the dragon. Double check the device is turned off. This one looks more beefy:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Regulator-Controller-Temperature-Governor/dp/B00BXUCWQG/ref=pd_sbs_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BXUCWQG&pd_rd_r=SCK4RH8538ARSNVKPSVS&pd_rd_w=WLQ1A&pd_rd_wg=qgTGd&psc=1&refRID=SCK4RH8538ARSNVKPSVS
   
   
   Hide your wife and kids, connect to power while shielding your eyes.
   
   You should now be able to slowly turn up the power while monitoring the input current. You really need something to at least be able to look at how much current you are pushing.
   
   If all goes well, swap the fuse to something in the 10 amp range and keep slowly turning it up.
   
   If you need DC let me know own and I'll draw something up for you.
   
   If you have even the smallest question about anything I've said ask. Please. I don't want to hear about anyone on the news..
   
   
   UPDATE:
   That site seems to aim toward 12 volt DC hho cells. At 1100 design watts that's pushing nearly 100 amps! Is this part of your design? To run that off of a standard 110 volt AC outlet, you are definitely going to need a large power supply. Again, I can help but it likely isn't going to be cheap unless you are ready to scrounge and learn more about electricity.