Reddit mentions: The best hardware spacers
We found 89 Reddit comments discussing the best hardware spacers. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 42 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. BusBoard Prototype Systems SA180 Adhesive Standoffs, 24 Pack, 0.180" Height, Offset 0.6x0.6 Base, Fits 0.125" PCB Hole
- Low profile 0.180ā standoff height.
- Offset base allows use when holes are close to the PCB edge. 0.6 x 0.6ā base size.
- For use with 1/16ā and 1/32ā thick PCBs with 0.125ā (1/8ā) diameter PCB holes. Expanding tabs lock PCB in place.
- Material: Nylon 66(UI) Flame Class: 94V-2
- 3M Adhesive Tape Backing.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.3937 Inches |
Length | 0.59055 Inches |
Width | 0.59055 Inches |
2. Rosiness 180Pcs M3 Nylon Hex Spacers Screw Nut Stand-off Plastic Accessories
Nylon Hex Spacers/ Screws/ Nuts Assorted Kit.Total 180 pieces. Come with the plastic box.
Specs:
Number of items | 180 |
3. M3 Hex Male Female Brass Standoff Stud Board Hexagon Threaded Pillar PCB Motherboard Spacer Bolt Screw Nut Assortment Kit Mounting 120Pcs
<b> M3 Brass Standoff:</b><br>Thread diameter:3mm,Thread Length:6mm,Ldge Length:5.5mm
Specs:
Color | Brass |
Size | M3 Male-Female |
4. Hilitchi 360pcs M2 M3 M4 Male Female Brass Spacer Standoff Screw Nut Assortment Kit
Product name:Brass M2 M3 M4 threaded standoff,Stainless Steel nut and screw kitPacking:360Pcs
Specs:
Color | Gold |
Height | 1.181102361 Inches |
Length | 2.755905509 Inches |
Weight | 0.44 Pounds |
Width | 1.574803148 Inches |
Number of items | 360 |
5. Round Spacer, Aluminum, Plain Finish, #8 Screw Size, 1/4" OD, 0.166" ID, 3/4" Length, Made in US (Pack of 25)
- Round spacer separates or connects components in a system for precise placement
- Aluminum provides corrosion resistance, is lightweight, and has good electrical conductivity
- Plain surface has no finish or coating
- Made in USA
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0 Inches |
Length | 0.75 Inches |
Width | 0 Inches |
Size | #8 |
Number of items | 25 |
6. Electronics-Salon M2.5 Black Nylon Hex M-F Spacer/Screw/Nut Assorted Kit, for Raspberry-Pi, Standoff.
M2.5 Black Threaded Hex Male-Female Standoff (Spacer) / Nut / Screw Assortment Kit.For Raspberry-Pi or other projects.Material: Nylon.Packed in a plastic box.100% new, RoHS compliant.
Specs:
Number of items | 1 |
7. uxcell M2.5x10mm+6mm Male-Female Hex Nylon PCB Motherboard Spacer Standoff for FPV Drone Quadcopter, Computer & Circuit Board White 100pcs
- ā Size: M2.5x10mm+6mm Male-Female Hex Nylon PCB Motherboard Spacer Standoff for FPV Drone Quadcopter, Computer & Circuit Board
- ā Material: made of nylon, practical, durable and convenient for using
- ā Applications: ideal for the industries of communication, electroplating, office equipment, electronics, etc
- ā Easy to install: these standoffs are useful small tools, they are very easy to install, and bring a lot of convenience to your life
- ā Package includes: 100pcs M2.5x10mm+6mm male-female nylon spacers
Features:
Specs:
Size | 100pcs M2.5 10+6mm White |
Number of items | 100 |
8. Keen Foamboard A3 x 5mm White (pack of 10)
5mm Super White 5mm Foamboard versatile boards ideal for studentsArt & Craft
9. HVAZI M4 Nylon Hex Spacer Standoffs Screws Nuts Flat Washers Assortment Kit;Male-Female(Black)
- M4 Black Nylon Male-Female Thread Hex Standoffs Spacers Standoffs/Screws/Nuts/Flat Washers Assorted Kit;Total 290 pieces Come with the plastic box
- Screw Thread: M4.0/(4.0mm), Thread pitch: 0.7mm;Male end thread length: 6mm(0.236");Hex Size:7.0mm(0.276").
- Male-Female Different length:6mm+6mm(10pcs);8mm+6mm(10pcs);10mm+6mm(10pcs);12mm+6mm(10pcs);15mm+6mm(10pcs);18mm+6mm(10pcs);20mm+6mm(10pcs);25mm+6mm(10pcs).And Nylon Screws(80pcs)/Nuts(80pcs)/Flat Washer(50pcs)
- All products are made of durable nylon, Strong,anticorrosive;100% new, RoHS compliant
- Type specification complete, the quality is reliable,Easy to install and durable to use
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Size | 290PCS/M4(Black) |
10. NALAKUVARA 300pcs M2 M3 Nylon Hex Nuts Spacers Screws Stand-Off Plastic Accessories Assortment Kit (Black+White) Come with Plastic Box
- Nylon Hex Spacers/ Screws/ Nuts Assorted Kit
- There are 2 Millimeter,3 Millimeter for you to choose, and bouth size come with beautiful single
- All products are made of durable nylon, Strong, anticorrosive, compact and portable
- M3 Black color total 180 pieces. Come with the plastic box
- M2 White color total 120 pieces. Come with the plastic box
Features:
Specs:
Number of items | 300 |
11. uxcell 25mm Body 20 Pcs Screw PCB Stand-Off Spacer Hex M3 Male x M3 Female
Product Name : Standoff Hexagonal Spacer;Thread Size : M3 Male x M3 FemaleMale Thread Length : 6mm;Body Length : 25mmOverall Size(Approx) : 31 x 5mm / 1.2" x 0.2" (L*Max.D);Material : BrassColor : Gold Tone;Net Weight : 67gPackage Content : 20 Pcs x Standoff Hexagonal Spacer
Specs:
Color | Gold Tone |
Length | 31 Millimeters |
Width | 5 Millimeters |
12. eBoot 180 Pieces Male Female Hex Brass Spacer Standoff Screw Nut Assortment Kit (M3)
180 Pieces brass standoff kit: the brass standoff kit come with hex spacers, screw, nut, standoff, applies to many area, appropriate to meet you different needsDurable material and long use life: there standoffs are made of durable brass, there screws and nuts are made of stainless steel which stron...
Specs:
Height | 1.181102361 Inches |
Length | 5.905511805 Inches |
Width | 3.93700787 Inches |
Size | M3 |
13. uxcell A14120500ux0280 100 Piece M3 3 Mm Round Flat White Nylon Spacer Washer Gasket PCB Pillar
Product Name : Nylon Spacer;Hole Diameter : M3Extener Diameter : 8mm;Thickness : 1mmMaterial : Nylon;Color : WhiteNet Weight : 8gPackage Content : 100 Pcs(+/-2%) x Hex Standoff Spacer
Specs:
Height | 0.39 Inches |
Length | 1.57 Inches |
Width | 1.18 Inches |
Size | 100pcs 3x8x1 |
Number of items | 1 |
14. uxcell 50pcs Nylon Hex Hexagonal Standoff Spacer M2.5 Female to Male 18mm+6mm
- Product Name : Nylon Standoff Spacer;Material : Nylon
- Thread Size : M2.5 / 2.5mm;Length : 18mm Female + 6mm Male
- Color : Grey White
- Weight : 19g
- Package Content : 50 xNylon Standoff Spacer
Features:
Specs:
Number of items | 50 |
15. HVAZI 160PCS M2.5 Brass Spacer Standoff/Stainless Steel Screw/Nut Assortment Kit,Male-Female
- Brass Hex Standoff/ Stainless Steel Screw / Nuts Assorted Kit;
- Screw thread: M2.5/(2.5mm), thread pitch: 0.45mm;
- Male end thread length: 6mm;
- M2.5 160pieces. Come with the plastic box;
- 100% new,Good Quality,Easy to install and durable to use.
Features:
Specs:
Number of items | 160 |
16. uxcell 8 Pcs Stainless Steel Standoff Pins Screw Glass Frame Hanger 16mmx50mm
UXCELL (U excel !) is the sole authorized Seller of uxcell productsProduct Name : Glass Standoff;Color : Silver Tone;Material : Stainless Steel;Mini Hole Dia. : 5mm/ 0.2"Thread Outer Dia. : 9.5mm/ 0.37";Thread Size : 1/8" PTTotal Size : 16 x 50mm/ 0.63" x 2" (D*L);Net Weight : 166gPackage : 8 Pcs x ...
Specs:
Height | 1.5 Inches |
Length | 7.6 Inches |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 6.1 Inches |
17. uxcell 100pcs Brass Round Straight PCB Pillar Female Thread Standoff Spacer M2x3x10mm
- Dog River Tools 3rd hand support, is a handy tool when working on your latest welding project
- Works on any type of material, measures 12 inches long and a weighs less than 1 pound
- Constructed from Steel with corrosion resistant zinc plating, will not rust or bend
- This non- magnetic tool increases your pipe welding accuracy and helps you finish your weld without an additional person
- Great for high temperature soldering on silver or copper or aluminum TIG jobs and holding smaller items when you tack them down
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.57 Inches |
Length | 5.51 Inches |
Width | 3.94 Inches |
18. 120 Pcs M3 Nylon Hex Spacers Screw Nut Stand-off Plastic Accessories Assortment White
Nylon Hex Spacers/ Screws/ Nuts Assorted Kit.Total 120 pieces. Come with the plastic box.
Specs:
Number of items | 120 |
19. uxcell 50 Pcs 7 x 8 x 3.2mm White Hollowed Spacer Support
Product Name : Spacer;Inner Hole Dia(Approx) : 3.2mm / 0.12"Overall Size(Approx) : 7 x 8mm / 0.27" x 0.31"(D*L);Material : NylonColor : WhiteNet Weight : 13gPackage Content : 50 (+/-2%)Pcs x Spacer
20. Sutemribor M2.5 Male Female Hex Brass Spacer Standoff Screw Nut Assortment Kit (180Pcs)
- ā Package: 180 Pieces
- ā Material: Brass+ Stainless steel, resist rust, practical, durable and convenient for using
- ā M2.5 hex Brass spacers size: female to female brass spacers have 4 sizes of 6 mm, 10 mm, 15 mm, 20 mm, male to female spacers are 6 with 6 mm, 10 with 6 mm, 15 with 6 mm, 20 with 6 mm
- ā Multifunction: the assortment kit together with brass hex spacers, screw, nut, fit for the industries of communication, electroplating, medical device, office equipment, electronics, etc
- ā Easy for storage: comes with a 10 grids storage box, different items can be distinguished, good for storage, difficult to damage the brass spacers and screws
Features:
Specs:
Color | brass |
Height | 4 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Weight | 0.3125 Pounds |
Width | 0.1 Inches |
Size | M2.5 |
š Reddit experts on hardware spacers
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where hardware spacers are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
https://blog.wwolf.us/din-mounting-for-the-pi/
This is not necessarily an exciting write-up. My main purpose is to show how easy this is and offer it as an alternative to typical cases and power supplies. Earlier in A cluster of Piās, I referenced DIN mounting for the Pi. DIN rails along with the POE hat would reduce the space required, cord clutter, and possibly increase cooling. It has begunā¦
DIN rails ā Backing up
DIN rails have many applications and are commonly found in telecom and industrial environments. Other than my current use, I have used DIN rails in a fulfillment warehouse where we used DIN rails to mount all the various power supplies, breakers, switches and PLC controllers for the conveyor systems.
In a previous post here, I describe my server rack. As much as I would like to house everything inside this rack, it is quickly becoming full and I have more plans down the road for servers and UPS systems. Whereas this could be a great excuse to purchase a second rack, there is simply not enough room. This makes the use of DIN rails even more practical for me as I can easily allocate some wall space for mounting and just route the necessary Ethernet cables to the Piās.
DIN mounting parts list:
I was recently approached by a guitarist to build a Meathead Deluxe clone. I had never heard of this pedal before, but after some research I realized it was quite an iconic pedal. Its the same pedal used by Troy in Queens of the Stone Age.
This pedal, simply put, is a modern voiced Fuzz Face. It uses silicon transistors that are biased wide open for a rich crunchy grind. It is bigger and much more aggressive than your standard Fuzz Face. To quote the original designer of the pedal, "If you want a true vintage sounding Fuzz Face and purchase a Meathead, you wont be a happy bunny. The Meathead is supposed to break things."
I decided to use this build as an excuse to experiment with a few new build techniques. Screenprinting graphics is fairly cumbersome for just one off builds and I wanted a way to apply professional looking decals simply and effectively. Other DIY builders on the forums have been using Waterslide Transfers with impressive results... It was totally worth it. Its a very simple process and I think it looks very nice and tidy. I coated the transfer with a clear-coat once it dried for added durability. I would highly recommend this process to any pedal-builder. For better results, I think I need to wipe down the surface of the decal while it dries. I had a few water spots on the surface while it was drying that caused some minor dimples in the finish on this build.
I also wanted to find a better way to mount veroboard builds inside the case. With PCB builds, I typically design them to mount to the back of the pots and anchor in place that way, but its not always easy to do this with vero builds. I have seen some other guys use plastic standoffs in their builds and decided to try this for myself. These require a 1/8" hole to properly mount, so you will have to find a fairly empty "cut" to drill out in order to use these, but I think they worked pretty dang well. It makes the build look much cleaner in my opinion.
After the build was complete, I tried it out on my Bass. It was noticeably more aggressive than any of the fuzz faces i have tried in the past, but still sounded very musical. That being said, this is definitely a Guitar pedal. It sounds incredible higher up on the neck, but starts to lose some definition at the low E... Forget about even trying to play drop C with this on Bass haha.
The schematic I used can be found here
Sound clip can be found here
Picture of the cute little circuit
Gut shot here
(The photos are missing a resistor... Smallbear sent me 820K instead of 820R resistors so I had to wait another day for this to re-ship.)
I love junky server based stuff like this! I actually have a super basic server in my closset that I put together out of a free 3U case and a bunch of literally scrap hardware (and then some new HDDs) I have it set up as a 3D printer and Plex server.
You could totally make yours into something even more interesting. Go get a nice chunk of wood or something from homedepot and then a set of these as custom standoffs and mounting hardware and go to town :)
So setting up my cluster I purchased 3 Raspberry Pis on amazon, a network switch, and a 6 port usb charger all found below:
To get started with this setup you'll need to flash Raspberrian os to each sd card. You can script this pretty easy if there are multiple systems your deploying and it is honestly a good starting point for batch scripting etc. Depending on your experience with Linux systems, you'll either want the full os for Raspberrian or the Lite. I prefer Lite since it's just command line interface and has faster deployment/setup time.
Once you have your pi's flashed with a linux based os, you'll need to start installing kubectl onto each node and kubeadm onto your master in your cluster. There are several articles such as this one that provide easy to follow setups for raspberry pi k8s clusters.
Once you've gotten your cluster setup, I would try deploying a web api to your cluster and exposing it within your network to learn most of the basics of kubernetes/docker deployments. Most examples online use NodeJs applications as examples. They also usually deploy using docker images as well. Docker and K8s go hand in hand for most of your apps in your cluster. For my setup, the K8s repo had/has a lot of already made scripts and setups for your needs. All of my stuff I used came from their repo or multiple Medium articles.
Here's some useful links for getting started. I'd also check out the r/kubernetes subreddit. Most of the articles are a few years old, but generally the top hits on google for kubernetes raspberry pi are enough to get you going and setup. It took be about 2 months of on off working to get mine up, stable, and secure with RBAC permissions before I moved my own apps into my cluster from GCP kubernetes cluster (Google Cloud Platform). My hassles also came from trying to much at once but that's just my nature:)
&#x200B;
Okay, to kick things off, here's a handful of things I cannot work without.
Then I hoard everything else. Bottles, cans, tins, chain, spare screws, bolts, springs, etc. Unused parts from sprues. You can search on ebay for "40k bits" and buy boxes of unused spare parts for relatively cheap which can really add some detail to your models and terrain.
And that's my tuppence!
Continuation thread (See first comment below for beginning)
Is That a Node in your Server Rack?
...āor are you just happy to parallelize me?ā
Now onto the build for the server nodes themselves. These are pretty simple; again I went with the K.I.S.S. method of building here, and using the original HDD Caddies for the DS14MK2, I surface mounted the SBCs using these awesome double-sided adhesive standoffs. This allowed me to get the R-Pis and the like, very very closely surface mounted. This was an important element, since thereās barely enough space width-wise for anything too thick (thatās what she said).
It took me a few iterations to find just the right location within each caddy to mount the SBCs, but I finally got it down to a not-so-exact science. Each caddy/tray now comes with a naked (ripped off the plastic shell) 48vdc -> 5vdc Gigabit Active PoE Splitter, which conveniently has a micro usb charging end for the R-Pi power.
Additionally, some of the nodes also have a āUPSā battery backup system ā ahem, basically itās a USB Powerbank 3200mAh, which gets power from the PoE splitter, and then gives that power to the R-Piās. Nothing fancy.
Oh, some of the nodes also have a real fancy Movidius Neural Compute Stick from Intel. Cause, you know. Neural Networks and stuff.
Note: everything in the caddy gets mounted with heavy duty double-sided adhesive tape. This makes it easier to replace/reposition/remove certain parts if needed later on.
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Shoot, in your position I'd be looking seriously into making a custom single din plate out of metal moving the cb's knobs and switches, and lengthening the wires. Laser cut the holes, laser on the labeling, use a few runs of cat5/cat6 to extend the switches from the main box and you should be golden.
OK. I'm really starting to get thinking on this
To make it really slick I would use keystone rj45 jacks to terminate the wires from the circuit board, and to the knobs, display's, and switches at each end. this would mean also making a new face for the main box of the cb so you could mount these properly. Their intended use is in a keystone wallplate, for home or server use. (maybe you already know all this? idk) For mounting them on the faceplate in the dash I would laser cut them a second smaller metal panel that I would mount behind the main plate using metal standoffs, like this, thus keeping all the connections hidden, and not at risk of breaking. if you needed to remove the radio or the cb remote faceplate all you have to do is disconnect the ethernet cables.
If you ever wanted to put the CB back to factory it would be a bit of a project to replace all the parts in the original front cover and solder all the wires back, but it sounds like that's something you're capable of doing.
With this setup you might even be able to mount the radio in your trunk. it would be easy to do, just a few runs of cat5 to wherever you want it. It would depend on if the switches all worked ok over that long of wire runs though.
Itās pretty good. Honestly I had to make a few adjustments for better airflow. Like on top I bought extender screws that helped me raise the glass. This way the hot air has a bigger gap to go through. If interested these are the extenders that I bought - HVAZI M4 Nylon Hex Spacer Standoffs Screws Nuts Flat Washers Assortment Kit;Male-Female(Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MPNVF5T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kr4ZCbP4EK2VB
Yikes, that's not pretty...
Have you looked into Mesh Bed Leveling? I have the EZABL on my CR10S and it's like magic. I was going to put it on my Ender 3 but went with Manual Mesh leveling instead.
On both printers it's so good that I removed the bed leveling springs and put in aluminum spacers and printed stand-offs.
The beds are so solid on both that I rarely have to re-probe, maybe once a month or so. I disable the EZABL probing on the CR10S in G-Code and only probe every 5th print or so and I doubt it's making much of a change.
I wonder if that would help with yours? I use the TH3D Unified version of Marlin, and it's fairly easy to set up. At least it would be a free solution if you have or could borrow an Arduino.
Such a shame to have yours out of commission :(
The PSU should be grounded & everything is connected to that so grounding isn't an issue. Technically, a metal case cuts down on radio interference being generated by the machine but it's not a huge deal. My biggest concern would be a lack of support for a large video card.
If you want to be really classy, keep an eye out at thrift stores, online classifieds or used parts vendors - you might find an old junker case for $10 or so. Alternately, you can order a pack of motherboard standoffs to make certain that the bottom of your case is clear.
How you will mount the motherboard: Adhesive motherboard standoffs.
&#x200B;
Fan mounts? Some double sided foam tape, OR! Technic shafts through the screw holes in the fan, holding the fan in position on the shafts with those couplers that slide (but tightly) along the shafts. Use the existing IO shield (if you care about that) and sandwich it in place between thin lego pieces. Easy lego solutions to all these problems.
Oh weird, I guess you'll probably have to make your own then, if you know someone with a 3D printer that'd be a pretty easy part to make. Could also do a ghetto fabulous solution with cable ties. Or nylon standoffs on the back side and just screw directly to those. https://www.amazon.com/NALAKUVARA-Spacers-Stand-off-Accessories-Assortment/dp/B01DD07PTW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=1UPC0DTQK8WBQ&amp;keywords=nylon+standoffs&amp;qid=1555788835&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=nylon+stand&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1
I think it looks compatible overall. These components would get you in the air just fine. For the receiver, it would be a good idea to go with the Turnigy 9X if you can swing the additional cost, that way you have some additional switches / expansion later.
As far as parts go, it is not clear to me how you would mount your flight controller on that particular frame. It says it has a PDB and I think from the picture it is the round one. The flight controller you linked is a square one (36x36mm) which is standard. You may want to consider a PDB like this one, along with some M3 nylon standoffs so you can mount the flight controller directly above.
I also don't see any XT 60 connectors, which you will need to connect to your PDB so you can supply power from you battery. You would also needs some 14 gauge wire to connect the xt60- included in the link.
When you get your radio, make sure it comes with the radio receiver (the one you linked does) and the correct cables to link to your flight controller.
These are the exact washers I ordered, recommended in the original post about this mod, and perfect for the job. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014F9AGSM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I replied to the other poster, but I will reply to you as well so it goes to your inbox. Hear are some cheap ones that should work well, but they are shipped from China:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-Nylon-Hex-Standoff-Spacer-M2-5-Female-to-Male-18mm-6mm-Z4E6-/122553264712?hash=item1c88be6a48:g:VG4AAOSw1BlZRdvn
Edit: Amazon has them for a little over twice the price: https://www.amazon.com/50pcs-Hexagonal-Standoff-Spacer-Female/dp/B00NQBFHMG/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504154570&amp;sr=8-16&amp;keywords=2.5+standoff
Your TXRX is the flight controller. You said the transmitter will come later. When you order one, make sure you get a receiver that will pair with it.
You're going to need nylon standoffs to mount the PDB/FC to the drone. something like this...
Heat shrink will be a good idea too. Tools (Soldering iron, precision hex wrenches, 5.5mm ratchet, etc) and stuff if you don't already have them. There's a lot of hidden costs that aren't on the frame.
Standoffs > Bolts, it would be another simple improvement.
like https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Standoff-Hanger-16mmx50mm/dp/B00KHTNU8S/ref=sr_1_1?s=hardware&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483906336&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=standoff
Pretty sure they are spacers for circuit boards.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01L06CUJG/ref=psdcmw_6909200011_t1_B00AQTWYUY
A description of mine:
Propellers: the sky's the limit. You can start with $20 worth.
Transmitter/receiver: Turnigy 9X, you can get it for $60/70 at Hobbyking
Battery / charger: as much as you want to spend. The bare minimum is $12 for a charger and $20-ish for a couple decent batteries (1500 mAh 3S with a good discharge rate). You'll also need odds and ends such as nylon standoffs.
In short, you can get to your first day of flying a line-of-sight 250 for around $200 if you look for the cheapest parts. That's just the beginning though. If you want FPV then you'll need a transmitter, receiver, goggles, antennas.
Ah, well I've used these round standoffs before, and I think they would be good if you're looking for as much clearance as possible. 3mm diameter.
Get some nylon standoffs like these - whatever size you want, but you need the ones that are male on one side, female on the other. Most quad stores sell these as well, I know Hobbyking sells them in bags of 10 for a buck or two.
The male ends of the screws are just wide enough that they'll jam into the little tracks you see in the FC well of the frame coming in towards the center diagonally from each corner. A little bit of glue will keep them there. Mount your FC on those.
If you use some medium sized standoffs, you can make use of the space under your flight controller to tuck away your wiring.
You can use something like this:
50 Pcs 7 x 8 x 3.2mm White Hollowed Spacer Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C97H4P6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_okvkIwAAyJBHm
Or you can use actual motherboard standoff's. I'm currently using these attached to wood. Drill a tiny pilot hole and screw them in. :
StarTech Replacement PC Mounting Metal Jack Screw Standoff - 50 Pack SCREWNUTM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008VF6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3RwZzbN5DHV1T
I have not but read the comments ppl have tested it to 20A. You'd need like 4pcs per battery from this 360 pack:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ZWM1F6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tmEBDbXT875G8
I put these aluminum spacers on my Ender 3 and CR-10S. They worked fine.
I already have stepper dampers and those solved any noise/vibrations I was worried about.
I should mention that I quit using glass beds, so I'm slinging around a half a kilo less mass than you might be.
I switched to this build surface directly on the aluminum plate and I'll never use glass again. Mesh-bed leveling solves the warped bed problem and prints stick like GLUE until I give them a solid tap.
>Sorry I canāt check my build immediately for exactly which standoffs I used; but here is the link to the set I bought on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ZWM1F6/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_api\_i\_Ux7sDbQAW6TGZ
>
>Iāll try to check tomorrow and see if I can be more exact!
Tks !!
Yep, that's the one (it's partially put together on my kitchen table right now). I'll tell what I bought and let you decide what to get (I overbought since I have nothing to start with). Keep in mind that I am completely new to the RC hobby and this is my first quadcopter build.
laptop screws for the motors
nylon spacer kit
Nylock nuts for the props
Velcro straps
XT60 connectors to make power lead
Wire to make power lead
zip ties
heat shrink
Like I said I overbought but I think this will work for me (for example my batteries have an XT60 connection).
Some other stuff I got because I'm a newb and want my quadcopter to light up the sky:
Helping Hands Magnifier -> this works very well
Learn to solder kit -> it helped me
Pretty lights
Sorry I canāt check my build immediately for exactly which standoffs I used; but here is the link to the set I bought on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ZWM1F6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ux7sDbQAW6TGZ
Iāll try to check tomorrow and see if I can be more exact!
It looks like a regular motherboard standoff. Not sure what size though. You can grab a kit with different types if you can't figure out what size it is.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B075K3QBMX/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_QgqZCbPFFHY6V
They're just motherboard standoffs. I got a box of them of various sizes off Amazon.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XQ33Y9X/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_tNnXCbD7GT090
Standoff spacers
You can mount it directly, but should use stand offs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R4ZT1FY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_dxvPDbXGHQF41
You can. It would be more affordable going that route. Rather than getting a kit online which you will probably never need to use the whole kit in the long run. https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-360pcs-Female-Standoff-Assortment/dp/B013ZWM1F6/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=pc+standoffs&amp;qid=1565024872&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
These are the ones I used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L06CUJG
I bought these standoffs for a test bench I was working on at one point and they worked fine. Even comes with screws
Also got a tap and die to make new holes cause I was making it work with a laptop board (lasted a while until I fried it)
I just get the kits off of [Amazon](Rosiness 180Pcs M3 Nylon Hex Spacers Screw Nut Stand-off Plastic Accessories Assortment Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LGBM3J8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q9PuybYP7A044)
Head to the hardware store and see what they have that you can use. Maybe with a dremel you can cut some pieces to fit. Its not pretty but I wouldnt let 4mm hold me back.
Or...sell your old case once you get the new one to recoup some of that money. Just had another thought....maybe these standoffs might work?
You're going to need this power cord for the imax b6 charger, for whatever reason they don't sell the power cord with the charger. http://amzn.com/B009VDPNXQ
You should also get this battery for your transmitter http://amzn.com/B00JERJZSS
Definitely invest in a voltage checker, this thing is invaluable in the field, if you discharge your batteries beyond a certain point they go bad, I've had two die on me so far because I let the voltage get too low. http://amzn.com/B00EXPPF80
You need some kind of power distribution board, to distribute power from your battery to the rest of the craft, something like this http://amzn.com/B00GQOZZUY
You will need these servo wires to connect your receiver to the kk2 http://amzn.com/B00P6JJFIS
These nylon standoffs will be really handy when you mount your flight controller and PDB (power distribution board) to the frame http://amzn.com/B00LGB2N1Q
Random stuff from the hardware store: Liquid tape, electric tape, big zip ties, little zip ties, velcro
That's probably not everything but you will be flying a lot sooner with all of this stuff
Most electronics if imperial use 4-40. Aka #4 diameter 40 threads per inch.
If you are a metric guy M2 M3 M4 are 2mm, 3mm and 4mm respectively. Here is a stand off kit that has a lot of size screws stand offs and nuts for metric since you are canadian. Hilitchi 360pcs M2 M3 M4 Male Female Brass Spacer Standoff Screw Nut Assortment Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ZWM1F6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zDjyxbVD15PA6
Sutemribor M2.5 Male Female Hex Brass Spacer Standoff Screw Nut Assortment Kit (180Pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K3QBMX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BxipDbRXZ1GXB
i guess i meant brass hahaha
they get loose and if you have a bad ground they can really fuck you up