https://blog.wwolf.us/din-mounting-for-the-pi/

This is not necessarily an exciting write-up. My main purpose is to show how easy this is and offer it as an alternative to typical cases and power supplies. Earlier in A cluster of Pi’s, I referenced DIN mounting for the Pi. DIN rails along with the POE hat would reduce the space required, cord clutter, and possibly increase cooling. It has begun…

DIN rails – Backing up

DIN rails have many applications and are commonly found in telecom and industrial environments. Other than my current use, I have used DIN rails in a fulfillment warehouse where we used DIN rails to mount all the various power supplies, breakers, switches and PLC controllers for the conveyor systems.

In a previous post here, I describe my server rack. As much as I would like to house everything inside this rack, it is quickly becoming full and I have more plans down the road for servers and UPS systems. Whereas this could be a great excuse to purchase a second rack, there is simply not enough room. This makes the use of DIN rails even more practical for me as I can easily allocate some wall space for mounting and just route the necessary Ethernet cables to the Pi’s.

DIN mounting parts list:

• Pi 4 (4GB) – I am currently only acquiring Pi 4 4GB models but any that accept a POE Hat should work for this. I have some Pi 3’s and an O-droid that may migrate to this system later.
  
• POE Hat – My first purchase of the Official POE Hat and already very impressed. I have used one from Pi Supply that worked for a little while then suddenly stopped but I have not attempted to troubleshoot.
  
• SD Card – These are my current favorites but any 8GB+ should suffice.
  
• DIN rail – I ordered a small section for now and can easily expand later.
  
• DIN rail mounts – Until I figure out my 3D printer (or replace it) these seemed like the best solution to get going quickly. Also, I like these as the mount the Pi perpendicular to the rail as opposed to parallel. This consumes much less of the rail and opens more space for Pi’s!
  
• POE capable switch – I already had a switch capable but any should work for this. Be sure to calculate your needs, 15W per Pi, and plan accordingly.
  
• Cat-6 Ethernet cables – For the price, just go with Cat-6. Cat-5 should work fine if you already have it lying around.
  
• 8 or 9mm standoffs – The POE Hat comes with Female/Female 9mm standoffs but we need Male/Female. I only have 8mm and 10mm so went with 8mm.

I was recently approached by a guitarist to build a Meathead Deluxe clone. I had never heard of this pedal before, but after some research I realized it was quite an iconic pedal. Its the same pedal used by Troy in Queens of the Stone Age.

This pedal, simply put, is a modern voiced Fuzz Face. It uses silicon transistors that are biased wide open for a rich crunchy grind. It is bigger and much more aggressive than your standard Fuzz Face. To quote the original designer of the pedal, "If you want a true vintage sounding Fuzz Face and purchase a Meathead, you wont be a happy bunny. The Meathead is supposed to break things."

I decided to use this build as an excuse to experiment with a few new build techniques. Screenprinting graphics is fairly cumbersome for just one off builds and I wanted a way to apply professional looking decals simply and effectively. Other DIY builders on the forums have been using Waterslide Transfers with impressive results... It was totally worth it. Its a very simple process and I think it looks very nice and tidy. I coated the transfer with a clear-coat once it dried for added durability. I would highly recommend this process to any pedal-builder. For better results, I think I need to wipe down the surface of the decal while it dries. I had a few water spots on the surface while it was drying that caused some minor dimples in the finish on this build.

I also wanted to find a better way to mount veroboard builds inside the case. With PCB builds, I typically design them to mount to the back of the pots and anchor in place that way, but its not always easy to do this with vero builds. I have seen some other guys use plastic standoffs in their builds and decided to try this for myself. These require a 1/8" hole to properly mount, so you will have to find a fairly empty "cut" to drill out in order to use these, but I think they worked pretty dang well. It makes the build look much cleaner in my opinion.

After the build was complete, I tried it out on my Bass. It was noticeably more aggressive than any of the fuzz faces i have tried in the past, but still sounded very musical. That being said, this is definitely a Guitar pedal. It sounds incredible higher up on the neck, but starts to lose some definition at the low E... Forget about even trying to play drop C with this on Bass haha.

The schematic I used can be found here

Sound clip can be found here

Picture of the cute little circuit

Gut shot here

(The photos are missing a resistor... Smallbear sent me 820K instead of 820R resistors so I had to wait another day for this to re-ship.)

On the cheap side I would use 3M Dual Lock, it's similar looking to velcro but WAY stronger. Instead of hooks and loops it uses opposing mushroom tops, the one I linked is the medium strength (250) and I think a 4-5 cm square on all four corners would be more then strong enough to hold up an A2 aluminum print (don't use too much, it is strong!). It's also nice that unlike velcro you use the same material on both sides, so you don't have to keep track of what you put on the wall or print.


A step up from that in price would be aluminum standoffs. Nicer looking, but much pricier and requires drilling a hole in the wall.

I love junky server based stuff like this! I actually have a super basic server in my closset that I put together out of a free 3U case and a bunch of literally scrap hardware (and then some new HDDs) I have it set up as a 3D printer and Plex server.

You could totally make yours into something even more interesting. Go get a nice chunk of wood or something from homedepot and then a set of these as custom standoffs and mounting hardware and go to town :)

So setting up my cluster I purchased 3 Raspberry Pis on amazon, a network switch, and a 6 port usb charger all found below:

• Raspberry Pis: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LPLPBS8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• SD Cards for Raspberry Pis: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073JWXGNT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Network Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BCC0LO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Network Cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5I7T9I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• USB Hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P936188/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• USB Cable Pack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079FPQSH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Plastic Standoffs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQB8YU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  To get started with this setup you'll need to flash Raspberrian os to each sd card. You can script this pretty easy if there are multiple systems your deploying and it is honestly a good starting point for batch scripting etc. Depending on your experience with Linux systems, you'll either want the full os for Raspberrian or the Lite. I prefer Lite since it's just command line interface and has faster deployment/setup time.
  
  Once you have your pi's flashed with a linux based os, you'll need to start installing kubectl onto each node and kubeadm onto your master in your cluster. There are several articles such as this one that provide easy to follow setups for raspberry pi k8s clusters.
  
  Once you've gotten your cluster setup, I would try deploying a web api to your cluster and exposing it within your network to learn most of the basics of kubernetes/docker deployments. Most examples online use NodeJs applications as examples. They also usually deploy using docker images as well. Docker and K8s go hand in hand for most of your apps in your cluster. For my setup, the K8s repo had/has a lot of already made scripts and setups for your needs. All of my stuff I used came from their repo or multiple Medium articles.
  
  Here's some useful links for getting started. I'd also check out the r/kubernetes subreddit. Most of the articles are a few years old, but generally the top hits on google for kubernetes raspberry pi are enough to get you going and setup. It took be about 2 months of on off working to get mine up, stable, and secure with RBAC permissions before I moved my own apps into my cluster from GCP kubernetes cluster (Google Cloud Platform). My hassles also came from trying to much at once but that's just my nature:)
  
  ​
  
  
• K8s github: https://github.com/kubernetes
  
• K8s Homepage: https://kubernetes.io/docs/concepts/overview/what-is-kubernetes/
  
• Helpful deployment articles:
  
  • https://medium.com/nycdev/k8s-on-pi-9cc14843d43
    
  • https://blog.sicara.com/build-own-cloud-kubernetes-raspberry-pi-9e5a98741b49
    
  • https://kubecloud.io/setting-up-a-kubernetes-1-11-raspberry-pi-cluster-using-kubeadm-952bbda329c8

Okay, to kick things off, here's a handful of things I cannot work without.

• Plasticard - Thick plasticard is quite hard and tough, while thinner (1mm or less) is quite flexible. I primarily use it for terrain bases. It comes in various thicknesses and has many other uses.
  
  
• Foamcore - Foam/sponge like material sandwiched between 2 sheets of card. This is my stock material for buildings and ruins, buildings, bunkers, aegis defence lines, etc. Easy to work with, great results. One thing worth mentioning is that if you're gluing exposed foam, you should give it a coat of paint first, as superglue/polystyrene cement will melt it.
  
  
• Sand - I don't think a link is needed for this! I use both fine grain sandpit playing sand as well as coarse building sand (the latter usually contains small stones that are also useful). If money is tight and you're buying from a home depot, poking a few holes in the bags can get them reduced (just don't get caught!!). I paid £1.20 for 2 massive bags (c15kg's each).
  
  
• Glue - Lots and lots of glues. Superglue, Epoxy Resin, Poly.Cement, PVA, Gorilla Glue, Hot Glue Gun. You can never have enough glue.
  
  
• Wire - Various thicknesses. Usually copper, as it is sturdy but easily manipulated.
  
  
• Gause - Really cool stuff. Great for fences and windows, etc.
  
  
• Cocktail Sticks - Useful for using as fence posts, rebar's, etc.
  
  Then I hoard everything else. Bottles, cans, tins, chain, spare screws, bolts, springs, etc. Unused parts from sprues. You can search on ebay for "40k bits" and buy boxes of unused spare parts for relatively cheap which can really add some detail to your models and terrain.
  
  And that's my tuppence!

Continuation thread (See first comment below for beginning)

Is That a Node in your Server Rack?

...”or are you just happy to parallelize me?”

Now onto the build for the server nodes themselves. These are pretty simple; again I went with the K.I.S.S. method of building here, and using the original HDD Caddies for the DS14MK2, I surface mounted the SBCs using these awesome double-sided adhesive standoffs. This allowed me to get the R-Pis and the like, very very closely surface mounted. This was an important element, since there’s barely enough space width-wise for anything too thick (that’s what she said).

It took me a few iterations to find just the right location within each caddy to mount the SBCs, but I finally got it down to a not-so-exact science. Each caddy/tray now comes with a naked (ripped off the plastic shell) 48vdc -> 5vdc Gigabit Active PoE Splitter, which conveniently has a micro usb charging end for the R-Pi power.

Additionally, some of the nodes also have a “UPS” battery backup system — ahem, basically it’s a USB Powerbank 3200mAh, which gets power from the PoE splitter, and then gives that power to the R-Pi’s. Nothing fancy.

Oh, some of the nodes also have a real fancy Movidius Neural Compute Stick from Intel. Cause, you know. Neural Networks and stuff.

• Each node is a separate unit, which processes data and vomits results back to the main rack server.
  
• Each node has its own UPS, Operating System, and is inter-changeable with others in the array.
  
• Each SBC in the node can be spiffed up with additional hardware, such as a sensor shield/hat (temp, humidity, light sensors, et al).
  
  Note: everything in the caddy gets mounted with heavy duty double-sided adhesive tape. This makes it easier to replace/reposition/remove certain parts if needed later on.
  
  
  Reference Photo
  
  Reference Photo
  
  Reference Photo

Shoot, in your position I'd be looking seriously into making a custom single din plate out of metal moving the cb's knobs and switches, and lengthening the wires. Laser cut the holes, laser on the labeling, use a few runs of cat5/cat6 to extend the switches from the main box and you should be golden.

OK. I'm really starting to get thinking on this

To make it really slick I would use keystone rj45 jacks to terminate the wires from the circuit board, and to the knobs, display's, and switches at each end. this would mean also making a new face for the main box of the cb so you could mount these properly. Their intended use is in a keystone wallplate, for home or server use. (maybe you already know all this? idk) For mounting them on the faceplate in the dash I would laser cut them a second smaller metal panel that I would mount behind the main plate using metal standoffs, like this, thus keeping all the connections hidden, and not at risk of breaking. if you needed to remove the radio or the cb remote faceplate all you have to do is disconnect the ethernet cables.

If you ever wanted to put the CB back to factory it would be a bit of a project to replace all the parts in the original front cover and solder all the wires back, but it sounds like that's something you're capable of doing.

With this setup you might even be able to mount the radio in your trunk. it would be easy to do, just a few runs of cat5 to wherever you want it. It would depend on if the switches all worked ok over that long of wire runs though.

It’s pretty good. Honestly I had to make a few adjustments for better airflow. Like on top I bought extender screws that helped me raise the glass. This way the hot air has a bigger gap to go through. If interested these are the extenders that I bought - HVAZI M4 Nylon Hex Spacer Standoffs Screws Nuts Flat Washers Assortment Kit;Male-Female(Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MPNVF5T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kr4ZCbP4EK2VB

Yikes, that's not pretty...

Have you looked into Mesh Bed Leveling? I have the EZABL on my CR10S and it's like magic. I was going to put it on my Ender 3 but went with Manual Mesh leveling instead.

On both printers it's so good that I removed the bed leveling springs and put in aluminum spacers and printed stand-offs.

The beds are so solid on both that I rarely have to re-probe, maybe once a month or so. I disable the EZABL probing on the CR10S in G-Code and only probe every 5th print or so and I doubt it's making much of a change.

I wonder if that would help with yours? I use the TH3D Unified version of Marlin, and it's fairly easy to set up. At least it would be a free solution if you have or could borrow an Arduino.

Such a shame to have yours out of commission :(

The acrylic "glue" is more like a bond, since it actually softens the pieces of acrylic and chemically bonds them together. Was considering bonding two layers together since they are 1/16 sheets but it looks like it is holding together pretty well. I use this tool to cut the pieces, this pack for the standoffs, and finally these m2 5mm screws. Oh also bumpons from hobby lobby for the bottom and I also got in on the aluminum cone feet in the recent drop on massdrop. Final version of the case will have cleaner cuts. Oh also.. I would recommend a step drill bit for drilling the holes, since the acrylic could crack in the drilling process.

How you will mount the motherboard: Adhesive motherboard standoffs.

​

Fan mounts? Some double sided foam tape, OR! Technic shafts through the screw holes in the fan, holding the fan in position on the shafts with those couplers that slide (but tightly) along the shafts. Use the existing IO shield (if you care about that) and sandwich it in place between thin lego pieces. Easy lego solutions to all these problems.

Oh weird, I guess you'll probably have to make your own then, if you know someone with a 3D printer that'd be a pretty easy part to make. Could also do a ghetto fabulous solution with cable ties. Or nylon standoffs on the back side and just screw directly to those. https://www.amazon.com/NALAKUVARA-Spacers-Stand-off-Accessories-Assortment/dp/B01DD07PTW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=1UPC0DTQK8WBQ&keywords=nylon+standoffs&qid=1555788835&s=gateway&sprefix=nylon+stand&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I think it looks compatible overall. These components would get you in the air just fine. For the receiver, it would be a good idea to go with the Turnigy 9X if you can swing the additional cost, that way you have some additional switches / expansion later.

As far as parts go, it is not clear to me how you would mount your flight controller on that particular frame. It says it has a PDB and I think from the picture it is the round one. The flight controller you linked is a square one (36x36mm) which is standard. You may want to consider a PDB like this one, along with some M3 nylon standoffs so you can mount the flight controller directly above.

I also don't see any XT 60 connectors, which you will need to connect to your PDB so you can supply power from you battery. You would also needs some 14 gauge wire to connect the xt60- included in the link.

When you get your radio, make sure it comes with the radio receiver (the one you linked does) and the correct cables to link to your flight controller.

I might take one apart to check it out. No case means better cooling, especially with a fan, as well as a smaller form factor. There may be some mounting holes on the boards or other parts you can thread some long standoffs onto and just stack them like that.

Alternatively, if there are 4 or so spots near the corners where you can straight drill through, a threaded rod and a bunch of nuts would do the trick. Only needs to be a couple mm diameter.

Might even be able to relocate the battery packs to one side so minimize their impact on the units heat concerns. If you're handy with electronics you may even be able to extend their wires and move them further away (move up in gauge if you go for more than a few inches).

Also, you can add heatsinks to the core and other chips with no case. They make stick on ones with thermally conductive tape or glue.

Won't know till you tear one down and look at the options.

)

Don't even need a bullet button, you just need a means of affixing the magazine with a tool. A threaded standoff that fits the threads on the magazine retainer can be cranked down on threaded post with pliers in place of the standard button and spring. Threaded standoff costs a lot less than a bullet button you'll be using for what, 27 more days? The thread on that is 10-32, I think. Super common. $17 for a pack of 10 on Amazon, buy 'em for all your friends!

These are the exact washers I ordered, recommended in the original post about this mod, and perfect for the job. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014F9AGSM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I replied to the other poster, but I will reply to you as well so it goes to your inbox. Hear are some cheap ones that should work well, but they are shipped from China:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-Nylon-Hex-Standoff-Spacer-M2-5-Female-to-Male-18mm-6mm-Z4E6-/122553264712?hash=item1c88be6a48:g:VG4AAOSw1BlZRdvn

Edit: Amazon has them for a little over twice the price: https://www.amazon.com/50pcs-Hexagonal-Standoff-Spacer-Female/dp/B00NQBFHMG/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1504154570&sr=8-16&keywords=2.5+standoff

You need 1/4"-20 not G1/4". This is common for tripod mounts but I don't think you'll find a similar 45deg fitting.

I would use a 1/4-20 coupling nut and then a short section of 1/4-20 threaded rod that you bend into the angle you want. Likely easiest to bend a longer rod and then cut ends to length with a hacksaw.

You should also use a standard 1/4-20 nut on the rod next to the sensor to lock in its rotational position.

In the US at least, you'd be better off going to a hardware store and buying single pieces rather than trying online.

Edit: maybe a little cleaner, if you bend a longer standoff nut and the a short threaded rod in the end.

Lyn-Tron, Steel, Female, Zinc Plated, 1/4"-20 Screw Size, 0.5" OD, 3.25" Length, (Pack of 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKK708K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QyNTzbJ697894

Standoffs > Bolts, it would be another simple improvement.

like https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Standoff-Hanger-16mmx50mm/dp/B00KHTNU8S/ref=sr_1_1?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1483906336&sr=1-1&keywords=standoff

Pretty sure they are spacers for circuit boards.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01L06CUJG/ref=psdcmw_6909200011_t1_B00AQTWYUY

A description of mine:

• ZMR clone frame - $35
  
• EMAX 2204/2300KV motors + 12A ESCs - $78
  
• Naze32 - $25
  
• PDB - $5
  
  Propellers: the sky's the limit. You can start with $20 worth.
  Transmitter/receiver: Turnigy 9X, you can get it for $60/70 at Hobbyking
  Battery / charger: as much as you want to spend. The bare minimum is $12 for a charger and $20-ish for a couple decent batteries (1500 mAh 3S with a good discharge rate). You'll also need odds and ends such as nylon standoffs.
  
  In short, you can get to your first day of flying a line-of-sight 250 for around $200 if you look for the cheapest parts. That's just the beginning though. If you want FPV then you'll need a transmitter, receiver, goggles, antennas.

I have not but read the comments ppl have tested it to 20A. You'd need like 4pcs per battery from this 360 pack:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ZWM1F6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tmEBDbXT875G8

I put these aluminum spacers on my Ender 3 and CR-10S. They worked fine.

I already have stepper dampers and those solved any noise/vibrations I was worried about.

I should mention that I quit using glass beds, so I'm slinging around a half a kilo less mass than you might be.

I switched to this build surface directly on the aluminum plate and I'll never use glass again. Mesh-bed leveling solves the warped bed problem and prints stick like GLUE until I give them a solid tap.

>Sorry I can’t check my build immediately for exactly which standoffs I used; but here is the link to the set I bought on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ZWM1F6/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_api\_i\_Ux7sDbQAW6TGZ
>
>I’ll try to check tomorrow and see if I can be more exact!

Tks !!

Sorry I can’t check my build immediately for exactly which standoffs I used; but here is the link to the set I bought on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ZWM1F6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ux7sDbQAW6TGZ

I’ll try to check tomorrow and see if I can be more exact!

They're just motherboard standoffs. I got a box of them of various sizes off Amazon.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XQ33Y9X/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_tNnXCbD7GT090

These are the ones I used.

You can. It would be more affordable going that route. Rather than getting a kit online which you will probably never need to use the whole kit in the long run. https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-360pcs-Female-Standoff-Assortment/dp/B013ZWM1F6/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=pc+standoffs&qid=1565024872&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Standoff spacers

Non-mobile: aluminum standoffs

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L06CUJG

You can mount it directly, but should use stand offs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R4ZT1FY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_dxvPDbXGHQF41

I bought these standoffs for a test bench I was working on at one point and they worked fine. Even comes with screws

Also got a tap and die to make new holes cause I was making it work with a laptop board (lasted a while until I fried it)

I just get the kits off of [Amazon](Rosiness 180Pcs M3 Nylon Hex Spacers Screw Nut Stand-off Plastic Accessories Assortment Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LGBM3J8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q9PuybYP7A044)

Head to the hardware store and see what they have that you can use. Maybe with a dremel you can cut some pieces to fit. Its not pretty but I wouldnt let 4mm hold me back.

Or...sell your old case once you get the new one to recoup some of that money. Just had another thought....maybe these standoffs might work?

Most electronics if imperial use 4-40. Aka #4 diameter 40 threads per inch.
If you are a metric guy M2 M3 M4 are 2mm, 3mm and 4mm respectively. Here is a stand off kit that has a lot of size screws stand offs and nuts for metric since you are canadian. Hilitchi 360pcs M2 M3 M4 Male Female Brass Spacer Standoff Screw Nut Assortment Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ZWM1F6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zDjyxbVD15PA6