Reddit mentions: The best household cleaning sponges

Hey there. First off, it's really good to hear you are trying to come out of a funk. That's something to be proud of, and as you keep tackling small projects, I hope you keep giving yourself the props you deserve for your efforts. It's really great.

As for the sink! I'd start off gentle and then work your way up here.

First off, baking soda. Nothing shines my stainless steel sink like a good baking soda scrub. Get yourself a few boxes of baking soda (I say a few, because there are endless ways to use it to clean stuff and its cheap as heck, so it doesn't hurt to have a few extra hanging around). Also this is the best sponge known to man, and it wont scratch your sink or your tub or your dishes or anything. Get a bunch, they are endlessly useful! https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Dobie-Original-Cleaning-720/dp/B000VPCG60

I find that it can be helpful to wet the sink down just a bit. Sprinkle the baking soda HEAVILY all over it. The sides, the basin, just everywhere you can get it. Don't be shy here. I'm talking like up to a half an inch of the stuff. Then wait. Wait a while. Maybe 15 minutes? Maybe an hour? Maybe a few? However long you can wait. (Take the time to maybe go on a walk and listen to a podcast and enjoy some fresh air. Or an episode or 2 of the most mind numbingly delightful tv show you can find. Whatever makes you happy. Treat yourself.) When you come back to it you might see that a little bit of grime has absorbed into the baking soda (no? Does that just happen with me? I'm filthy, so this happens with me.) Then take your Dobie pad and wet it down a bit with some warm water and scrub the dickens out of the sink. I'd start from the top rim of the sink and work your way down here. As you scrub, you can keep getting your sponge a little wet, but you're going to want to be working the baking soda in with the sponge and a lot of elbow grease. The baking soda will start to fall and accumulate in the bottom of the basin. Try to minimize having the water wash the majority of it down the drain just yet. Use the accumulating baking soda to keep scrubbing.

When done, I like to take a jug of white vinegar and pour it on the pile of baking soda that has accumulated. I do this for a number of reasons. Firstly, it explodes, and that is very very cool. You can keep scrubbing with the new vinegar mixture too, whatever floats your boat. I find the vinegar helps to shine things up a bit, as well as work as a deodorizer. Also, if enough baking soda accumulates in the drain and the vinegar continues to react to it down there, it'll help keep things unclogged and smelling nicely.

Hopefully this does the trick to lift the grease spots as well as shine things up.

If the baking soda/vinegar method does not work, I'd go get some Bar Keepers Friend or Bon Ami. Use a similar technique, but a light sprinkle of the product instead of a heavy sprinkle. And don't add the vinegar, just scrub with the Dobie and water.

Also, WD-40 might be something you can just dive right in with. Just dab some on a soft sponge or rag and wipe it up. (I'd wash and rinse the residue of this off with plain dish-soap and water after you are done. I don't think you'd want to eat off of dishes that accidentally pick up this residue).

You could also look into getting a small blade or razor to scrape it up (with the WD-40 as a lubricant for extra help). You would just have to be extra careful here, but there's less of a chance of scraping the surface in an extreme way with this than a metal brush or something of the sort.

As far as the stove is concerned, I'd just jump right in with Bar Keepers Friend/Bon Ami and the Dobie pad. I also find that Windex works really well on my stove top to shine it up.

As a side note on general cleaning, if you are struggling finding where to start with your cleaning products, these are all very good products to have on hand to tackle a lot of different cleaning conundrums (You would be amazed what plain dish soap can accomplish). I also like to get cleaning products that smell good and illicit positive feelings (If Mrs. Meyers is a brand available to you, the Honeysuckle scented products INSANELY good). I also cannot recommend the book Ask A Clean Person enough. It's very helpful for people who need straightforward cleaning advice and rules.

Goodluck with your progress!!!

I'll give my /r/AutoDetailing inspired rundown. I live in an apartment so a lot of this is extra hassle if you have access to water.

2 Bucket (apartment) Method Wash

• 5 gallon bucket of water (w/grit guard)
  
  
• 5 gallon bucket premixed soap and grit guard
  
  
  • Lids for transportation
    
    
• Head down to the local self service wash. The kind with the foamy brush and pressure washer. (ONLY THERE FOR THE WATER)
  
  
• I follow 2 Bucket method above but my process is a bit different since I'm paying for the water.
  
  
  • Clean wheels/wheel wells, exhaust tips, rinse, wet car and remove built up debris/bugs with remaining time
    
    
  • Clean roof, windows, hood, front, rinse
    
    
  • Clean driver side (not bottom), back, passenger side (not bottom), go back and clean bottom of sides, rinse
    
    
    • If time remaining, switch to low pressure for final rinse
      
      
• Dry car and head home!
  
  My personal favorite wax is Collonite #845. I also like Griot's Best in Show since it can be found in big box stores locally.
  
  I would also recommend a paint protection such as Cquartz as extra protection against winters and daily driving.
  
  The absolute #1 rule to keeping your car swirl free, NEVER USE AUTOMATIC CAR WASHES.

I dont do too many field-fixes anymore... Im now in startup land where everything is shiny & new, and we get what we need.

 

My things that were stupid-useful that mostly haven't been listed so far:

Klein Tools electrician scissors - Most useful cutters ever. Take-a-finger-off sharp, cuts though thick cables, the top is great for straining phone / ethernet cable. A cable puller had a set, and he sold me on them in 30 seconds when he raked the wobbly cat5 strands across them, and they were perfectly straight. Would have been worth the $$ at twice the cost.

I replaced my mismatched tools in my bag w/ a iFixit toolkit when I needed to start buying new bits for iPads and the tri-lobes for macs. Ended up being about the same cost as those bits alone, and it had them, and a bunch of other stuff that was better then my cobbled together tools. The screwdriver is far-better made then the little plastic ones I had before. They have a new-toolkit, but I haven't used it.

A roll of Velcro ties Far more useful then zips. Use the scissors above to trim as needed.

Mars-eraser. Great for cleaning toner from printers, and cleaning up corroded connectors (first pass).

Melamine Sponge (aka Magic Eraser) - They clean up things nothing else does like the weird tint that macs wrist guards get from skin oil. Also great for getting toner off of the outside of printers. Also good for cleaning up cherry-coke from a $25k piece of sound gear.

Deoxit - You can use the cheap stuff that was like $5 a can at any automotive parts store, and that will work for most things. This is for more sensitive stuff. I used this repairing contacts in audio-control-surfaces, rebuilding DSLRs, etc. Its for when more then a mars-eraser is needed.

I just got a stainless set for Christmas this past year. I was really excited but also terrified, then I did some research. The key to stainless steel cooking is heat the pan first before adding ANYTHING. I believe the adage is hot pan, cold fat.

So, say you want to cook something over medium-high heat.

• Turn the burner on to that, set the pan on it and forget about it for a few minutes so the pan comes up to heat empty.
  
• Then, add your fat, so butter, olive oil whatever (I don't do this with bacon because the bacon is essentially the fat, just heat and slap in your bacon), let the fat come up to temperature. You want to wait until you see a nice shimmer on the surface for things like olive oil. * Then add your food.
  
  I can even scramble eggs in my skillets and they slide out like nothing. You'll notice after a little practice that these babies are, when used properly, less prone to stick than something with a non-stick coating, unless of course you burn the shit out of it. :)
  
  Also, for cleaning, let the pan cool before you wash it. My favorite things to use are either no scratch Scotch Brite pads or Scotch Brite Dobies but in most cases I don't really need to scrub. That being said, you're going to encounter situations where you burn things or the fat oxidizes on your pans and for this, hands down, get some Bar Keepers Friend. It's the best thing ever.

I enthusiastically recommend loofahs. I've been happy with both of these products:

Natural Dish Scrubber - in this product description they spell it loofah, loufa, luffa, and lofa which is kinda hilarious

Natural Loofah Sponge Scrubbers

Loofahs are a gourd. When you're done with them you can throw them in the compost. You can even grow your own.

They're not going to be as scratchy as a synthetic scrubber. There will also be some natural variation - some will be surprisingly firm/stiff and others will be surprisingly soft/supple. If you buy a pack of loofahs I'd recommend trying them all out to see which are softer/firmer and use them appropriately.

If you like the sponge & scratch combination - Twist makes a loofah sponge that is also nice and is the only one I can actually find at my local organic store.

Good. Good! I'm the same way with anything audio. I still have old old old Zenith speakers for my home set up because they sound the best. They were my Dad's in college and they are still fantastic.

Nice work on the car. Looks awesome. I highly suggest claying your glass next time or even using a scrub daddy with diluted gold class as lube. The smoother the surface, the better the Rain X will work.

I agree that alot of people just dive right in and I don't believe that's the right approach as it's a drastic lifestyle change. It takes baby steps but here's some of what I've learned:

• Get a box, bag or container to dub as your "reuse box" and go around your home to find anything at all that would be going into the recycling/garbage to give it a 2nd life. I just recently had a bunch of spray bottles that I turned into for DIY hair product sprays or for to-go glasses cleaning spray as well as fabric from t-shirts to turn into rags/homemade paper towel replacement/napkins.
  
  
• Then look at what it is you tend to contribute to trash the most and search for an alternative through google, amazon, ebay, etc. Example: I use Scotch Bright sponges and they get so dirty I throw them out. An alternative (other than disinfecting and cleaning them for reuse) is Coconut Fibre sponges like this OR even this. I've also heard of some people using bath loofahs instead.
  
  
• For replacement of dryer sheets: you can actually turn almost anything into a reusable dryer sheet. Some people use wool balls, jerry cloths or rags that are soaked in a water + fabric softener solution, dried out, stored in sealed container, used in the dryer and repeat the cycle.
  
  
• Ditch plastic cling wrap for beeswax covered cloth that does a better job of sealing in freshness.
  
  
• Switch to soap bars. A decade ago, I used to go through a large bottle of body wash every week because I would overdo it while washing. You can buy them at any health food store or source them locally but on Etsy some sellers will do deals like "buy 5 get 6th bar free" or "get these specific bars at reduced price." Over the past years I only need to order every 6 months, sometimes less if they're big bars of soap. That saves money and waste.
  

Every since I started using eco tools facial scrub pads my face has felt great and I rarely break out anymore. They are the best cheap addition to my beauty arsenal that I have found in a long time. I just happen to see them when I was perusing the beauty aisle at the grocery store. Greatest random find ever.

Honestly, the kit is only an OK deal. It's fairly overpriced for what it contains.
For less money (assuming I'm looking at the same bundle as you), I'd get the following:

• http://amzn.com/B00BS3GM7I - same foam gun, different branding
  
• http://amzn.com/B00BJCAPEE - Mr. Pink is PH balanced soap that foams extremely well, and is just as good in buckets. Citrus Wash and Gloss will strip wax.
  
• http://amzn.com/B00RDMBTNA- Microfiber wash mitts.
  
• http://amzn.com/B00ANZHG7C- Cheap, half decent microfibers.
  
• http://amzn.com/B00EVY2LKI - Drying Towels
  
  Also, it's really important, at least in my opinion, to have 2 buckets and Grit Guards. I'd get two of these: http://amzn.com/B00ABYVTZA and pick up some buckets at Home Depot or Lowes, or order one of the bucket/grit guard kits from Autopia.
  
  Finally, Microfibers are an investment as long as you take care of them. What I linked is cheap, OK quality stuff. Check out The Rag Company, and maybe consider getting one of their starter packs for better rags.

I use one of these on my face and love it! Gentle but effective. I use one for my dishes and one for my body and one for my face haha. They are cool cuz you can sterilize them in the dishwasher too.

silicon sponges

You're welcome. Tried & True is so easy - wipe it on, wait at least an hour, wipe off any excess. Wait 24 hours. Apply 3 coats this way. Then you can burnish it with 0000 steel wool (or the white 3M abrasive pads which I prefer). I use these pads, and I bought a 20 pack on Amazon and I use them to get stuff off pots and pans in my kitchen as well: https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Cleansing-Aluminum-Silicate-Length/dp/B00EW7M5S2/r

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Make sure you apply it with a lint-free cloth (either a really old, well laundered tshirt, blue shop towels, or microfiber cloths all work pretty well)

No your good, bar keepers friend and some elbow grease and you will be good to go. Definitely not ruined, some of these make it a lot easier as well

https://www.amazon.com/Hometeq-Pack-Stainless-Scourers-Scrubbers/dp/B07G255HQ1/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=3JJK1MGFDWMC8&keywords=stainless+steel+pot+scrubber&qid=1550702888&s=gateway&sprefix=stainless+steel+pot+sc&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

SECTION | CONTENT

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Title | How to SUPER CLEAN Your Car (Best Clean Possible)
Description | Learn How to wash your car properly. In this video I go over everything you need to know to Super Clean your car and make the paint go from old, dirty, and dull, to clean, glossy and bright! I cover touchless foam wash, touch wash, clay bar, drying, paint correction, and using sealer or wax. Here are all the products I used: Pressure Washer: http://amzn.to/2bt7GZN Foam Cannon: http://amzn.to/2brRODT Foam Gun (hose): http://amzn.to/2aTwFkr Grit Guard: http://amzn.to/2aTwEN6 Grit Wash Board: http...
Length | 0:18:55






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I usually stop around 3-4:00 PM and figure out where I want to stop that night, then call ahead if I'm getting a hotel room and make a reservation somewhere. You can also read-up on camping on BLM or NFS lands, either campgrounds or remote. State parks also may have campgrounds.

I carry a tire plug kit. This will save you massive amounts of time if you get a flat in a remote area. Watch a few youtube videos if you've never used one and you should be fine.

I also carry a small 12v cigarette-lighter-powered air compressor for reinflating the tire, and a tire pressure gauge because I don't trust the ones on the cheap pumps.

If you are going to travel through remote areas in the west always carry some food and water.

Buy one of those sponges with the nylon netting on the outside or a loofah or one of these. You'll probably want to clean the windshield of dead bugs more often than just when you get gas. Bring a jug of water to assist. Carry an extra jug of wiper fluid.

Research the historical day/night temperatures if you will be traveling in the inter-mountain west. It can actually get quite cold at night if you're camping. Pack appropriate clothing. Monsoon season in the desert southwest can go to early October. Assume you might get rained-on a bit.

Check state DOT websites for conditions ahead at high mountain passes in the Rockies and the Sierras. Some of them start closing due to snow by mid-September.

If you are going to more than two or three national parks buy the annual pass for $80 at the first park you go to. It will pay for itself several times over.

IMHO carrying a bunch of spare parts or tools is overkill but a spare headlamp bulb and a package of assorted zip ties aren't a bad investment. Make sure your brakes are in good condition before you leave if you are driving in mountain areas.

I carry a paper road atlas as I find it useful for longer-distance planning than zooming in/out on an ipad or phone. You can get Rand McNally Road atlasses near the checkouts at a lot of Walmarts.

You'll find that the octane levels of gasoline sold at high altitudes is a few points lower than at sea level. Using 85 octane in a car that usually uses 87 is fine, etc.. Pay attention to the labeling on the pumps elsewhere. At certain places in the Midwest gas stations sell high-ethanol mixes that are inappropriate for non flex-fuel cars. They will still sell the regular stuff, just pay attention to the labels.

Know that this sign means that you can come upon cows standing in the road at any time. Avoid driving these roads at night, or at least keep the speed down and be prepared.

Congrats on getting a Blackstone. I've had mine for a year and I really love it.

For cleaning you can get a commercial scraper that will require less elbow grease. Also, a [large pumice stone] (https://www.amazon.com/GCB-8435-Grill-Cleaning-Brick-Black/dp/B07116YBCT/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1504902224&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=commercial+pumice+stone) as well.

I am not a professional so I'm sure others can provide better advice but what I do to clean is:

• Keep the heat on (though it doesn't have to be at max)
  
  
• Scrape as much as possible and remove it from the griddle
  
  
• Hit it with some water from a squeeze bottle
  
  
• Scrape again
  
  
• Wipe it down with a cloth
  
  
• Go over it with the pumice stone
  
  
• Wipe off the grit
  
  
• Lightly coat with cooking oil (I use a cloth to spread it out evenly)
  
  
• Turn off the heat
  

A&H Microfiber Tuff Scrub 'N' Wipe Pads , (6 Pads) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B1KGVCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ncuPBbG6XNKQ9

These are the ones I got (but I feel like the price was lower when I did) and they're pretty ok. I wish the scrubby side was scrubbier. They've gone through a lot of washes and dries and are still in good shape so that's cool.

Not sure where you're located but you can easily find them at most big box retailers. (Walmart, Lowes, etc) but you can definitely find them on Amazon as well. Nor sure if links are allowed but if they are here is a link for you!

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Clean-Original-Cleaning-Durafoam/dp/B07M6R4LPN/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=magic+eraser&qid=1570313519&sprefix=magic+e&sr=8-5

Yeah camping with soap sure easy / makes sense... But grass and pine needles? That's fucking hardcore dude. Green scrubbys are really really cheap And if you buy a big pad you can cut it into 4-6 smaller pads that each last around 2 months so...

P.S. FUCK SPONGES Paper towels and a green scrubby works great

P.P.S. Here's what a green scrubby looks like if you don't know. https://www.amazon.com/Jetec-Cleaning-Scouring-Scratch-Kitchen/dp/B07FMPMFKD/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=green+scrubby&qid=1570812550&sr=8-6 Only for reference this amount would last me about 100 years lol.

the no soap thing is out of date. It was a thing back when Lye was used in soap but that is not the case anymore. You just need to use soap, warm water, and a sponge like this. The hardest bit is just to make sure it's completely dry but you can do that by throwing it on the burner for a bit which you might as well do anyway and do a light coat of seasoning.

Yes evaporation is an issue, as well as residue. But I have a trick!

I have 2 5-gallon pickle buckets I store my RO and remineralized water in. RO is used for top offs and TDS drains when it inevitably gets too high. I get my RO from a local grocery store for like $0.40 a gallon. Utah's tap water is too high for a RO/DI system without a water softener first.

As for residue, yeah it can become a problem. I use a secret technique proven by other aquarists. DO NOT get a magic eraser with any sort of chemicals in it. Original only.

As an initial matter, soaking is generally useless (and can be unsanitary if you don't rinse thoroughly). Because you have no dishwasher, you probably don't have a disposal. If you do, it's a lot easier. Here's my approach.

(1) Get rid of all the food solids. Down the disposal if you have it. If you don't, i take a plastic grocery bag and scrape all the solid foods into it with a paper towel or napkin from dinner.

(2) Sometimes I pre-rinse the dishes at this point to remove further solids. Sometimes I just go to step 3.

(3) Using a good sponge that has a scrubber side (or a Dobie--a good brand), I load the sponge with dishwashing liquid (usually a good brand like Dawn--it really does work better on grease).

(4) Scrub and rinse under running water in one step. Place in a rack to dry. I have a system where I wash things in order--utensils first, small items, plates, and then cookware last. It just makes sense for some reason.

Dishes that are thoroughly clean will air dry fast. I find towel drying to be a waste of time and towels, unless I need the item immediately.

Sponges need to be completely wrung out of water when done so they don't grow mildew. You will be able to smell a bad sponge right away. Sniff it--it should have no smell. If it does, all you need to do is put in the microwave on a paper towel for two minutes at high--it will sterilize the sponge completely. Ta da!

These things are the best for scrubbing ALL THE THINGS. Get something like comet (as /u/asdf1011 said) and get to scrubbing. Use small circular motions.

Around 6.50 on Amazon for 100. 6.39 to be more precise with free shipping. Shinebear is the seller

link

i second the liquid high temp cleaner notion. https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-700-40-Quick-Clean-Griddle-3-2-Ounce/dp/B0070MSX6Y This stuff is AMAZING. if you're diligent this will clean without the need for abrasive pads or bricks. A scraper and a wet towel will bring it back to shining like a monkey's ass. (chef always says that, i dont get it either

I wouldn't go for a polish, as that's just likely to leave bright spots. "Magic Eraser" is just a brand name for melamine foam, and melamine foam is probably what you want. You can get a package of 100 delivered for just a few bucks on Amazon.

citric acid and one of those magic erasers works waaaay better than vinagar:

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006STCVL8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CHI3BVI?keywords=magic%20eraser&qid=1452327243&ref_=sr_1_6&sr=8-6

I’ve not seen these at Aldi, but they look just like the 3M Dobie scotch brite pads we use.

Amazon Link

Reverse osmosis filtered, or just filtered water, is better than straight tap. I'm not sure about distilled. This is why you have the white stuff outside the smartpots, it's calcium buildup from your unfiltered tap water. Ph any water of course. I think you might need to let the plants get really dry, no water for at least 2 days. Also might as well check the Ph meter against a common household substance with known acidity levels (google for a chart) to see if it's in the right range. Or grab a Ph test kit or strips. Buy this for your drainage, and empty the runoff daily (ideally as soon as you can after it finishes draining):

http://smile.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-IAI503-Guard-Insert/dp/B00ABYVTZA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453910790&sr=8-2&keywords=grit+guard+bucket

Leaving it sitting in water will cause bad things. The roots will grow out the bottom of the pot looking for water and quickly rot. Between using tap water and letting the pots sit in runoff, and possibly over feeding, I bet those were most of your problems. The existing damaged leaves won't get any better, but hopefully it'll droop less, and new leaves will stay healthy :).

Thanks for the contest Scrub Daddy!

Better option

https://www.amazon.com/Multifunctional-Cleaning-Sponges-Melamine-Accessories/dp/B07219TSTM/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1502574500&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=cleaning+sponge&psc=1

Sorry, when I meant I used a scouring pad, I didn't mean like steel wool, or an aggressive scotch brite pad, I just used a mild [Dobie pad] (https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Dobie-Original-Cleaning-720/dp/B000VPCG60), it's super mild and I use it aggressively on my nonstick surfaces without issue. If this is something to avoid, however, i'll stop immediately.

Thanks for all the good info, I just gotta get into the good habits, but I can tell this is like when I went from using a drip machine to a chemex for my coffee, just gotta get into the swing of things.

Yeah we use the same stuff in my kitchen and it works wonders. They are using way more than you need in the gif. We get these packets and 1 of them is plenty for a flat top that size. Just turn your grill up to high for about 5 min then off, poor the packet on and spread it out across the grill, then scrub a bit with a griddle pad (you dont need much force just go back and forth until its clean), squeegee it off then poor water across to get any remaining residue off. Wipe with a dry towel and apply a thin layer of oil and your breakfast guy will love you in the morning. Takes me less than 5 minutes and our flat top is i think 5' x3' so i use 2 packets instead of 1. I could get it just as clean with a grill brick but it'd take me a bit longer so the $1 a day in chemicals outweighs the extra labor.

Thanks! The finish is 2 coats of Osmo PolyX. Less is more with this stuff. Some people flood it on, but I've found that if you put too much on and don't buff it out fast enough, it gets very sticky. You have to work in small sections with tiny white Scotch brite pads like these. This is the closest video I could find on to how I would use it on furniture applications instead of its intended use (sealing hardwood flooring).

Soaking in vinegar works wonders. I also like to buy "non-abrasive" kitchen sponges. These work wonders and wont leave a mark.

I have the white seats and a 5 year old boy who I take to soccer games and whatnot. So far so good for me... I also hear for real tough stains you can use a melamine sponge (like these: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07219TSTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Nu25BbXXN0KDG) but I haven't had to bother.

Look at this cheap filler

Also, these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07219TSTM/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

You should know...

Just ordered 2 of these and it is CG, but this is also a linked item from the wiki? https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ABYVTZA/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use green scouring pads:
https://www.amazon.com/Jetec-Cleaning-Scouring-Scratch-Kitchen/dp/B07FMPMFKD/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ABYVTZA/ref=olp_product_details/154-6713182-5056953?tag=slickdeals&ascsubtag=5a0efbfcb1e611e68115baba51364ac10INT&_encoding=UTF8&me=

ON SALE

Get some Dobie pads. They scour but don't scratch.

Go generic on the sponges no need to pay extra for a bald dude on the packing

As a professional auto detailer, this is what I do to keep the bike looking spiffy with minimal risk of swirling the paint.

First, I use a pressure washer on my bike, it's a 2000 psi washer so no real risk of damage to anything and works great for getting those bugs out of the radiator and tiny little crevices as well as a good majority of the dirt which is just less to grind into the paint when you finally hit it with the ONR (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469797720&sr=1-1&keywords=onr). A hose would work also, just not as effective. (If you have the money, go buy yourself a foam cannon with some chemical guys honey dew soap and save yourself some time)

Then I grab 2 buckets with Grit Guards in each. (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-IAI503-Guard-Insert/dp/B00ABYVTZA/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469797070&sr=1-1&keywords=grit+guard) and fill one with ONR and the other is a rinse bucket. The washing part is pretty simple. Buy yourself a microfiber wash mitt, dip it in the bucket with ONR and scrub an area of the bike down. Rinse it off and the rinse bucket and repeat until the bike is clean. Pro tip: Do your paint first and other areas that can be easily swirled and work your way to the dirtier areas on the bottom of the bike that are more likely to have the mitt pick up dirt.

I dry the bike with a leaf blower dedicated to detailing (basically one that has never been used in reverse to suck leaves up) to get all the hard to reach places dry. You can also use a standard microfiber drying towel for this.

Once it is dry, I'll hit the chrome with a chrome polish and put a coat of wax on (collinite 845 is my go to, but any mequiers wax is plenty good) and hit the mirrors and headlight with some glass cleaner.

If you have a chain, put some wax on that bad boy since you most likely just washed it all off. I don't put any kind of vinyl or leather protection on the seat because shit is always slippery. I know wheels look nice when they are nice and shinny, but you will eat shit if you put on any kind of wheel shine.