Reddit mentions: The best incandescent bulbs

First of all, it sounds like you'd want to avoid any species that require a winter dormancy. I would try the Cape sundew (Drosera capensis) first, because it is cheap, easy to find, and tolerates a very wide variety of conditions. Another that might do well is Sarracenia rosea (also known as S. purpurea ssp. venosa var. burkii). It's probably the only Sarracenia that is likely to do okay without a dormancy period, and it, like the other forms of S. purpurea, can tolerate lower light levels than most carnivorous plants. Another plant that could be worth trying is Cephalotus. A lot of people say it's difficult to grow, but in my experience, it's been extremely easy, so I don't know. I think it's important to have it in an especially large (or at least tall) pot, the larger (taller), the better, and to keep that standing in either only shallow water or none at all. It too can survive on less light than most carnivorous plants and can grow without a dormancy period. Its main drawback is its price. This is the cheapest I've ever seen them, but that's for a pretty small one. This is closer to the average price for them, and those are probably proportionately larger (though still small) and worth the extra money if you can afford it. None of these plants I've mentioned so far require especially high humidity, but if they show signs of wanting more than that of the room, you could put them into some kind of terrarium situation, but since it's also possible to keep it too humid, it's usually best to still allow some amount of ventilation. If you find that you can't provide enough natural or artificial light for any of those species, then the only ones left to try would be the three species of Drosera section Prolifera, Drosera adelae, Drosera prolifera, and Drosera schizandra. They are the only truly low light carnivorous plants and are more likely to like a fully enclosed terrarium than the others I mentioned. You can read more about them here, here, and here. You could try Nepenthes, but I can't really recommend them for your situation. Even the easiest species, while very easy to keep alive, are difficult to keep looking even remotely nice without a greenhouse because to maintain pitchers they require higher humidity than is found in a typical room to and they will get too big to keep in any reasonably sized terrarium. As far as artificial lighting goes, it depends on how much you need and how much you're willing to spend. Just remember that people not familiar with the subject vastly, and I mean vastly, overestimate a given light's plant growing capacity because of this and this. I personally use a few of these, and they are amazing. I use them with things like this and this. They may seem expensive, but you definitely get what you pay for. You might be able to get by with CFLs, but while they're something like 10 times cheaper, they'll also put out something like 10 times less light usable to the plants (and that's assuming you manage to concentrate their light as much as that of those spotlights) while using several times more electricity and lasting a fraction as long. Wow. I just realized how much I just typed. I hope you find at least some of that helpful! Also, don't forget to check out the links on the right of this subreddit if you haven't already. There's lots of good information to be found there as well as on countless other sites.

Edit: fixed a link

All of the above are fantastic solutions, but not the most budget friendly. In college I needed photography lighting and it’s all about the bulbs, where they are placed and if they have a diffuser around them.

I purchased these professional light bulbs ($24.99) and 2 stand up lights from Target. ($10 each).

Keep the shade things on those lights and place them to the left and right of you, creating a triangle with you as the point. You can play around and see what looks best but the triangle will probably be best. These are your fill lights. You could have one directly beside you and another behind and that would also be fine. Any overhead light can be on to help depending on the lighting.

The most IMPORTANT part is to also buy a soft pink light bulb ($7.22), this will help from the harsh white lights from washing you out and give your skin the color it needs to make you look human. This can be placed in a small desk lamp and have it pointed towards you. Not directly at your face but not above and shining down either. Find a book shelf and have it on top of that beaming at you. As long as you don’t have it beaming down creating shadows it will look fine.

You could get the knock off version of the ring light for $100 or you can spend $52 on my setup. My setup is a bit more accommodating to streamers as you can move it around to find the best angles. Ring lights will create these giant one rings in your eyeballs which as a photographer I find far less “natural” than my set up.

TLDR: get 2 sets of light bulbs and a cheap lamps from target and it will be beautiful natural lighting.

I feel like the definition of practicals is a little muddy here, but just so we're all clear, practicals are lights that are in the shot. Usually placed by set dressing and are things like floor lamps, table lamps, overhead fluorescent fixtures.

Using the practicals in the shot to light the scene is very touchy and for the most part I really wouldn't recommend it. As soon as you have enough light to get exposure, you'll find the practical is now blowing out, even though it's lighting your talent appropriately. It's very common to just put all the lamps in the room on dimmers and dim them so you have enough to feel the lamp as a source, but not too bright to blow out. Then light your subjects with other fixtures to emulate those lamps in the shot. That being said, sometimes you have very little option but to do this and there are a couple of tricks you can use to make it work.

You can place a small piece of ND gel in front of the bulb, but behind the shade, so that it makes the front of the practical appear darker. Now the light coming from the sides will be enough to expose your subjects, but the practical won't blow out. You can also spray black streaks n tips, which is a hair highlight spray, onto the front of the bulb to darken it selectively. One last thing you can do is hide a light on the lamp itself to light your subject, while you dim the practical to taste. I just did a TV show a little while ago where we had people in a bar sitting at tables with these small practicals on each. It's a little tough to light these people in a big wide shot when their only light source is supposed to be coming from below, so we cut up a ping pong ball and stuffed some LED Lite Ribbon inside of it. It's really a very cheap solution and it gave us a bit of output that was dimmable with very little color shift.

That being said, household globes are a pretty great way to make scenes happen when the amount of light needed is low. Using household globes you can build fixtures that you would see even on big shows.

Here's a link to someone building a covered wagon, usually a strip of 1x3 with a few porcelain sockets, a wire mesh over the front, and a muslin face.

https://www.nyfa.edu/student-resources/soft-lighting-how-to-build-a-covered-wagon/

Once you realize that you can just start screwing porcelain sockets into wood and putting a bulb on it, the sky is really the limit. I would buy the set lighting technicians handbook and try and get a handle on how electricity works before really diving in, but in the end it is really just basic wiring. I think the most important thing from here is just knowing the different kind of globes you have available to you.

Households and photofloods may have slight variations in color temperature and bulb life, but I often see them used interchangeably. The common photofloods that are used are 211 (75w) 212 (150w) 213 (250w), ECT (500w). Household globes come in either frosted or clear and the common wattages are 25w, 40w, 60w, 100w, though you can find bigger ones if you look a little harder. If you want a harder light from your home built fixture, try the clear households. I would hesitate to gang these up in a covered wagon style though, as the multiple shadows won't be appealing.

The other globes to look into would be the JDR's and the Mushroom globes.

Here are the JDR's:
http://www.lightsonretail.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=VIDEO-LIGHTING&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=JDR

Very similar to an MR-16 which can be used to similar effect, but they are basically a very small par light. They can be really good for accents in the background. They are really great in tandem with the Swivelier products. You can screw the Swivelier into an overhead light above and basically get full pan and tilt control of it. Once you throw a JDR in you can accent whatever you like in the room.

Here's a link to that:
http://www.swivelier.com/id29.htm

Then here are the mushroom globes, probably the most punchy of the lot because they come in high wattages and are PAR style lamps with a reflector and lens.

Link: http://www.amazon.ca/Halco-R40FL500-Incandescent-Flood-Glass/dp/B00DQVHWRO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1449592977&sr=1-1&keywords=R40+bulb+500w

I'll leave you guys with one last kind of weird style of globe, which are called silver tips:

https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/5761/IN-0060CLSB.html?utm_source=SmartFeedGoogleBase&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_term=IN-0060CLSB&utm_content=A-Shape+Silver+Bowl+Incandescent+Light+Bulbs&utm_campaign=SmartFeedGoogleBaseShopping&gclid=CJPvpf3azMkCFQyPaQodAiAA9g

These have a silver reflector on the top of the bulb. You could use it to direct light down, but often times they are used in fixtures that are hung overhead where you want the light to be soft. You use these for max output, but since the bulb would be facing downward, you wouldn't get any hard light hitting your subject directly, it would all be bouncing off of whatever white reflector you have in your fixture.

That being said, check out this rig that was built for A Serious Man. When it comes to lightbulb rigs, this is always the first thing I think of:

http://s159.photobucket.com/user/rosestar77/media/hexRig.jpg.html

Just goes to show you that even on big movies, sometimes the answer is just more lightbulbs.

Sorry this took so long, I knew I was going to write a novel.

Microchipping would be good, but the same transportation issues that stand in the way of getting him microchipped are REALLY going to stand in the way of anyone who finds him to get him scanned. And while YOU know how to handle him, 98% of people who are going to come across him if he gets out are unlikely to know what to do. With just a microchip, you also run the risk of all the non-tort informed people out there (which is most people), either not touching him at all because they're afraid of him, picking him up and setting him "free" somewhere rural, taking him to a lake because they think he's a turtle, or trying to pick him up but injuring him in the process. In my opinion, you might want to consider something that will let people know how to contact you ASAP without even touching him.

I have this "license plate" on mine. It was recommended by our vet who also owns sulcatas, as well as an old college friend of mine who is a biologist and tags sea turtles.

It's just a pet tag from PetSmart with his name and my phone number attached with two-part marine epoxy. The Loctite brand you can find at Lowe's. As long as it's not on one of the scute borders, it won't effect his growth. It stays put after 5 minutes, but I put a piece of painter's tape over it for the 24 hours it takes to fully cure. It has been securely attached for 5 years now.

55 degrees is my go-to boundary temp as well. The cold-night set up I had when he was the size of yours was super simple because the first chill took me by surprise, so necessity was the mother of invention that afternoon. It looked a bit ghetto and I'm almost embarrassed to admit it, but it worked so well (and we don't need it too often here in CFL) I actually kept it this way for years.

So here's the breakdown:
My cousin is a personal trainer and was living with me at the time, so I snagged one of his diy dip bars that looked just like one of these. We're talking less than $10 worth of PVC from Home Depot. I put it against the back of my house where there was covering from the eaves and no wind. Then I stacked cinder blocks, 2 or 3 on each side, and hung a clamp light from the bar. The cinder blocks would warm up a bit and really help keep the heat where it needed to be. I used a regular infrared reptile heat bulb, 100w or 150w. Now, I know there's mixed opinions out there on the red bulbs because torts can see some of the red visible light they emit and this can wreak havoc on their circadian rhythm IF USED REGULARLY. Indoors a CHE is recommended, of course, but that just wasn't putting out enough heat. And since moving outside it's only needed a dozen or so nights a year, plus he gets plenty of natural light and exercise as soon as the sun comes up, so I'm really not worried about it throwing off his rhythm. Prepare yourself, here's an extremely not-to-scale and poorly done drawing, but I think you get the drift. I was so paranoid the first couple nights, I put a thermometer right on the top of his shell as he slept and probably checked it a million times. I was more afraid he'd get burned or too hot than anything else, and I had to raise the light, but after that it kept him around a cozy 65-70 degrees all night.

I think the combination of the infrared light and the way the blocks worked to insulate the heat were the key, so I'm sure any variation of that would work. Just something to think about while you're working out your set up. Good luck! I'm curious as to what you end up figuring out! Remember, around here you really only need to bring the temp up by 15-20 degrees at the most to keep him at 55+, so don't worry about it too much!

Also, do you have a picture of the burrow with a hinged lid? That sounds ingenious! I wonder if somethingthat would make my dinosaur stop digging already!

That is part of the problem, it's not major but going outside and getting exposure to the brightest natural light source available to Planet Earth really helps get your sleep and wake times in sync with well, the sun.

Try to get out in the early morning, or when you wake up, and again, stay away from bright lights and TV's edit: at night.

In fact, I'll recommend you some orange bulbs, it's a 12 pack, 25 watt orange bulb, so you can put them wherever you really need to, provided you have control over the lights.

Hope you like Amazon!
12 pack, ceramic orange 25 watt bulbs $17.64

They also have a transparent orange if you'd rather use that
(found the transparent ones) Transparent orange 12 pack bulbs $20.64

24 pack of 25 watt orange bulbs $32.40

My favorite way to relax is by cuddling with my pops they are just so sweet and full of love curled up with a good book and a cup of tea.

I would love [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001797M6S/ref=aw_ls_2_8?colid=26SWLD702LW5B&coliid=I3JWLA9ZMEFE3Y&vs=1)

Thanks for the contest!!! Have fun relaxing!

I know you said you want a regular light bulb size, but I really recommend you get the ones that are a long tube instead. They're much stronger than any you can find in a bulb style and they're not that expensive, I've seen them at Wal-mart for under $20 for a 24" with all parts necessary.

But, If you really need a bulb just make sure you don't get the incandescent style, those are garbage. You literally have to place them right next to whatever you want to glow and they've always burnt out on me after a few days with minimal use. CFL (the twisty ones) bulbs are ok, but you'll need several and maybe some reflectors to really give them range. A blue CFL bulb will also cause fluorescent things to glow, and they're much brighter and have a longer range than the black light CFLs, but then everything will be blue. Personally, I think it looks pretty cool, but it might not serve your purposes. There's also LED blacklight bulbs now, I don't have much experience with those, though.

These CSTs are awesome. I fitted my work one with a hardware switch to flip the left-right buttons – if I flipped it in Mac OS, for some reason it insisted on flipping the trackpad behavior too.

Yeah, I bought one Dolch, and then had the opportunity to buy another and jumped at it. They're good enough that I haven't been tempted to buy more keysets ... yet.

Thanks for the compliment on the lamp! I made it at our local maker space. It's this socket, this bulb, a glass cylinder and a 3d-printed base. I have a couple nixie clocks as well, they just don't live on the desks!

I was using the calipers to help design 3D-printed Christmas presents. But now you mention it, I need to try to make an adapter to fit the Dolch spacebar onto the Leopold board I have at work.

Man oh man. Every time I visit this sub I’m reminded of how like minded and rare my people are. I am repulsed by overhead lighting in my house. I can handle it elsewhere. I don’t love it, but I can handle it.

I use lamps and use 40 watt filament bulbs in my lamps. I’ll link here. https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Squirrel-Brooklyn-Bulb-Co/dp/B00FLXG8IO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523860815&sr=8-1&keywords=filament+bulbs+40+watt

They’re very warm and natural feeling.

I’ve been reading a few books on this topic. The end of Night and waking up to the dark. Really interesting exploration of lighting and how unnatural it is for the brain and society. Give them a read!!

My goal is to spend a month this summer at my friends ranch... and not use any natural lighting. As soon as the sun goes down... that’s it. Peeing in the dark. Navigating in the dark. The book “waking up to the dark” talks about the parts of our brain that go unused by flipping a light on for everything. I’m interested in reconnecting with a part of my cave-man-night-brain-self that has been idle my entire life.

You seem pretty sure of yourself there...

I believe the 35w OEM Halogen bulb is around 500-700 lumens on a good day... So 2,500-2,800 lumens out of this LED unit would be a significant upgrade. I'm thinking your estimate there is probably close, but on the lower side. I'm thinking more like 3000 lumens. For reference, I have a 5,000 lumen LED board that I wished I could have used, but the required heatsink made it too bulky to get away with. That's what I compared this H4 LED unit's light output with.

Not sure if you looked at the actual LED bulb I used but it (unlike many others on fleabay) is designed specifically to work best in a dual-beam headlight reflector. With the low-beam, only the top two (shrouded) LED clusters on both sides are lit up. This shines almost all of its light output backward and upward at the upper part (low-beam) of the reflector unit. What you see in this picture is mirrored on the other side as well. A total of 4 LED clusters.

The high beams employ both these upper shrouded LED clusters, as well as the unshrouded ones, which fully illuminate the lower portion of the reflector.

After I finished the install last night, I wheeled it out in the driveway and shined the headlight down the street and it absolutely was brighter and more focused/isolated than the OEM headlight, which as you say emanates a full 360 degrees, which caused the low beam of the bulb to engage the high-beam portion of reflector which would blind oncoming cars if the OEM headlight bulb was anything much brighter than stock. In fact, most H4 headlight bulbs have their tip blacked out such that it doesn't have that hot spot shining directly forward.

As far as I'm concerned, this LED unit more effectively uses the OEM reflector than the OEM bulb did.

I'll snap some pics of the beam output tonight, and post back here in this thread.

I'm glad you're confused about this stuff--it means your brain juice is flowing!

/u/CrustalTrudger provided a great response to a recent thread on the topic of volcanic emissions of CO2 versus anthropogenic CO2 emissions. The quick answer is that the sulfur dioxide aerosols released by volcanoes find themselves in the upper atmosphere, where they can efficiently block out incoming radiation. However, these tiny particles are cleaned out of the atmosphere by rain within a few years, which ends there short-lived effect on climate. It's called a volcanic winter to imply that the event is ephemeral. CO2 released by volcanoes can contribute to longer-term warming, but is overridden by the aerosols on the short term.

The case of greenhouse gases reflecting incident radiation is always a topic of conversation among my students, and a valid question before you learn the details. Energy from the Sun arrives at Earth primarily as ultraviolet radiation (UV light), which is high-energy for our purposes here. About 30% of that energy is reflected right back into space by the clouds and Earth's surface, about 20% is directly absorbed by the atmosphere, and the rest (50%) is absorbed by the Earth's surface, warming it up. But this is not the greenhouse effect!

Here's the neat trick: the Earth's surface then re-emits some of it's absorbed energy. Because some of the energy is used to warm the land and oceans, there is only going to be some fraction of the incoming energy left over to shoot back up towards space. The energy level of this re-emission places it in the infrared part of the EM spectrum, which is what we feel as heat (check out a heat lamp). Gases in the atmosphere can absorb and reflect this IR radiation more efficiently than UV radiation, so the net result is that the air above us warms up a bit more and the clouds zap some of those heat waves back toward the Earth's surface, where the heat is again absorbed. These atmospheric gases trap energy much the same way that panes of glass trap heat in a greenhouse. It's warmer in the greenhouse for the same reason that it's warmer on Earth than in outer space.

ELI5 version: High-intensity stuff flies toward Earth, some of which pings off the globe, some gets sucked up, and some gets soaked up and then leaks out again. The leaking energy can't make it back out of the atmosphere (the greenhouse), so it has to ping around until it's absorbed by the clouds or the globe.

tl;dr: Volcanoes shoot out SO2 aerosols, which only cool the climate for short durations. CO2 works on longer time scales. Not much UV energy from the sun is reflected by GHGs. The GHGs trap heat that is first absorbed by Earth and then re-emitted as IR.

clear coat be careful not to get too close but yes, i use this setup, it works great primer dries for me in like 2 to 3 minutes at most,.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0R9F71/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066L0YJE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i kep them like 4 to 5 feet from the painted items. i use em in my basement but you can use em anywhere.

I can't change the lightbulb colors, but I did buy dimmable bulbs where I wanted them.

All my smart switches do is allow dimming over Z-wave (and so my SmartThings controller and Google Home). If I wanted to, I could put smart bulbs in the sockets also but putting in a smart switch lets me dim all the bulbs in the ceiling fan for the cost of a switch, instead of the cost of 3 bulbs every time they burn out.

If the bonsai are less than 3-4 inches and right underneath the line of the lamps they may be ok! Wider than that it won't cover well.


If you want a bulb type try one that is a COB (chip on board, brighter, newer LED tech) bulb - https://www.amazon.com/Spectrum-CANAGROW-Hydroponics-Seedlings-Vegetables/dp/B07J6B3J4R/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=COB+grow+light&qid=1561990303&s=gateway&sr=8-18

Also you can rig some sort of stand for the hangable ones but I find it super easy to hook them under wire shelves.

Re: lighting - I was thinking that too. I have 3 or 4 120 watt grow bulbs in reflective clamp-on fixtures that I will probably supplement with. I think

Re: soil: yes, I've heard this stuff can be very strong. I can google around but do you have any recommendations? Should I dilute it with perlite or some less nutrient-rich potting soil?

Really appreciate the input :)

I cannot speak for the honda Si, but i have the same issue for my honda ridgeline.

I ordered some lights from amazon. Basically you have to take the dash apart, get to the light, take the old bulb out and put in the new bulb. yes you can but the whole fixture for like 10$ a bulb - or just buy a pack of bulbs. You will reuse the "bulb condoms" for specific colors).

​

These are the bulbs i bought. They are not LED.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8BR76A

If you are going to do this., you could switch to LED, but do a little bit more research to figure out sizing. You could also change the colors if you want.. like decide instead of amber, you want red, or blue or something.

​

Edit to add : in my example of how to fix this.. you are reusing the base of the bulb - so removing th ebad bulb, peeling off the bulb condom (just changes the color of the bulb), then adding in your bulbs you bought, wrapping the wires in (take photos before you remove your old bulb of how the wires wind into the base).

Here is a post... about the ridgeline, but i bet it translates.

​

https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/threads/dash-light-bulb-repair.46567/

Mandy,

Saying "incandescent light" also includes halogens and other light types that are going to produce a lot of UVa/b on their own. (depending if they're using quartz crystal and no glass)
I wanted to have a simple write up on this about a year ago.. but it's a rabbit hole.

There's a lot of ground to cover and it's all going to be freaking confusing to people that just want a simple answer. So I'm dying to KISS it (Keep It Simple Stupid) and just point them to the tungsten light bulbs.

The OP's temps are way too high. Even for a veiled it's too much and you're asking for a burn along the back because they're right above the perches. That red IR light is just going to be problems as they're too intense and the hatchlings don't recognize when they're being burned very well.

Also the perches they do have are completely inadequate (bird ladders again?!?)

Use the 1000 bulbs direct link for the old fashioned tungsten lights

Also for the winter a 100 watt might be required to set the ambient temps. So we have to find out what they have their thermostats set at. I think that 65ºF is a good night temp for a home... that will work for the hatchlings. If the thermostat is set at that temp, then they don't need a Red IR light.

ymmv.

For a hatchling and a new inexperienced keeper you might have to get multiple heat sources in there to keep the interior at 70- 75ºF and a basking spot at 80ºF I'd rather have two 60 watt bulbs vs a single 120 that might be too strong.

these can be paired with a broad (10.5") reflective dome... or a chicken brooder

so that there's a wide cone of light/heat that's produced and it'll allow the cham to find it's place in the gradient where it's comfortable.

I bought it six months ago. Expensive, but none of the other bulbs were strong enough.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J6B3J4R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qZTLiwxPfdKb3

Must love a pink glow.

>Ok, so that one specifically says it’s for in-ground use. Since you are growing in containers, you should use a product that’s labeled as potting soil.

Well, shit. Maybe I can find a use for the two bags I still have...

>What specific plants are you growing that you are having trouble with?

My catnip in particular is the one that is being very fussy, for some reason. My basil and lemon balm sucks it up so far.

>The plants in your pictures look ok to me. You might want to pinch off the tops of your basil to encourage them to bush out a bit more, but other than that they seem to be doing ok. Do you have them under grow lights?

I do. This one. I am planning on adding this soon when I get a second clamp lamp.

Also, how far would you recommend pinching the tall basil plant?

Amazon provides. I'll post more pictures of the monster later.

• 250 watt IR Bulbs
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01855YCXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  You can just get a few lamps, and see if it will work for you - I started with four, but noticed I had to sit too close and got four more.
  
  
• Clamp lamps with safety guards
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XV8QOU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  If you use a different lamp, make sure that whatever you use instead is rated to 300 watts. And is chrome and metal - otherwise it will heat up from the IR, I have learnt.
  
  I am also using:
  
  
• Squares of wire from a wire shelving cube, to attach the lamps to.
  
  
• Metal chain link to hang them with
  
  
• Quick link chain connectors to affix the chain and the wire shelving.
  
  
• Power strips
  
  
• Two 1500 watt space heaters
  
  I also have the house heating system turned off in every room but my bathroom when I do this, so it's also pumping hot air in to warm the room.
  
  The lamps look sketchy but since they lamps are delivering light, and aren't inherently generating heat themselves, they are a lot less warm. The lamp metal gets hot to the touch, but you would need to hold your skin against the metal to cause a burn, and they cool down very quickly when turned off. Even the glass of the lamps isn't that hot - I've accidentally landed a drop of sweat on one, and watched it evaporate away very slowly, rather than sizzle.
  
  That said, the focal point of the IR lamp is very hot, and if you put your skin too close to the lamps for too long, it will get burnt. Back when I was using 4 lamps instead of 8 (for my whole body), I'd sit too close and get little rashes later, that would last a day or so, with steroid cream. However, I've probably burnt myself with the space heaters just as often. Be conscious and careful, and expect to spend a few days getting adjusted safely. And, a few days more of treatment before the effect starts to show.
  
  I sit under the lights until my oral temp gets to 100 and then sit ~ 10 minutes more, by which it's usually ~101.5. I'll then turn off the lights, and sit wth just the space heaters for 20 minutes, so I am forcing a fever for about 30 minutes at the moment. I'll breath deeply from the hot air coming from the heaters, to heat me from the inside, and have been experimenting with drinking warm liquids while I heat - to keep hydrated, but not cool down. Plays havoc with the thermometer readings though.
  
  Probably another 4-8 lights would be more effective than the second space heater, and use the same or less power, but I don't have any place to put them yet.
  

I have tried all the windows in my house. Unfortunately the only windows in my house are facing Northwest and Northeast, but almost directly North. I have them still at a window so they are getting some natural sun but it definitely isn't enough.

I recently purchased this bulb, is it alright?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XV8QOU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0066L0ZRU/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1411770233&sr=1&keywords=heat+lamp

Best $30 I've spent on 3d printing accessories. Easier than an enclosure and totally eliminates splitting / delimitation / warping issues I was having.

Thanks for all the compliments; Makes it feel worthwhile compiling the photos!

To all of those asking how long it took: I don't know.

The project spanned 4 months from initial experiments and sketches to the completed fixture. Scattered weekends and evenings here and there, whenever I could spend a few minutes on it. It was a very iterative process, a very fun process, and I'm simply not sure what the total man hour count was.


To all of those asking how much it cost:

I can say - for certain - that without the light bulbs, it came in at less than the Pottery Barn 16-jar light that my wife was using as a cost comparison.

But I didn't actually keep super close track especially since it was spread out over such a long period and hardware store receipts had other purchases intermingled on them.

I can say quite specifically that the bulbs were not cheap.

So I started with several of these and they did absolutely nothing: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E79J9HE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I went to these fixtures and they were better than the clip lights above:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHQ94C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With these bulbs:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B015G9N3S0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now, I'm using this for most of them:
http://www.gardeners.com/buy/stack-n-grow-light-system/8590134RS.html#start=2
This came with T5HO bulbs - I found it on clearance or I wouldn't have been able to afford it.

And, I'm using this: http://www.horticulturesource.com/product_info.php?products_id=18197&gclid=CPTjkKW2uNECFdWLswod5ngIyA

for my tall Crassula compacta - this light is my favorite!

Check amazon!

I have these saved in my wish list.

Kind of hard to see but those lights would look amazing with Edison bulbs. They come in many designs.

You can use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8BR76A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All you have to do is unthread the wiring from the round plastic base, then wrap the new bulb wires around it the same way. Incredibly easy. Buy two packs, and do ALL the bulbs for the cost of two dealer bulbs!

Some have the little rubber plastic cover - just roll that off the old one and onto the new one and voila, it works!

If you don't do them all, 1) others will burn out soon since they've all been used the same amount of time since new, and 2) some will be brighter than others and will trigger one's OCD.

These ones work a lot better and safer.
If you're in Canada, you can buy one exactly like that from Rona for $25, but with extra pieces: Along with the regular- and flood-size bulb grabbers, you get a suction cup (meant for small halogen bulbs, also works for extra-large PAR38 floods if you have those and are careful), and two different size rubber tips for removing broken bulb sockets safely. And of course, the 11' extendable pole lets an average person change a light bulb up to 16 feet in the air without a ladder.

Pro-tip: The larger 23W CFL mini-twisters (the 100W equivalent) can be very hard to grab with these; on one occasion I've even shattered the bulb. The solution is to grab the spring of the small bulb-changer and stretch it a little bit (I ended up with four or five small stretched sections). This makes the opening big enough to fit over the larger CFL twisters without stretching, and still works fine for smaller CFLs and regular incandescant bulbs.

My wife and I replaced ours with half reflective gold globes, the make them in chrome too

Since the light is directed back against the wall, the light really pops and is very warm.

[https://www.amazon.com/Bulbrite-40G25HM-Chrome-Globe-Shape/dp/B000GWIKTK] (https://www.amazon.com/Bulbrite-40G25HM-Chrome-Globe-Shape/dp/B000GWIKTK)

I feel like LED is too cool for my bathroom.

It's a incandescent light bulb like this one they comes in many shapes. Personnaly i prefer warm lights like this instead of led stripes, much more comfy.

Yeah, those are decorative lamps.

You want stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Crystal-Clear-Watt-12-pack/dp/B002YF5GC6/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1JWW9QZ4HYQXJ&keywords=incandescent+light+bulbs+60+watt&qid=1562752964&s=gateway&sprefix=incand%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-4

This is what I keep hearing. These are the bulbs I'm using. Maybe I bought some kinda super CFL? It's listed as 1600 lumens. Is that standard?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015G9N3S0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With CFLs, I imagine it'd be the standard 23/24W recommendation? What about LED bulbs? Can I just use the regular old "replace your incandescent with this" type that you buy at Walgreens? Or are we talking more about something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Spectrum-CANAGROW-Hydroponics-Seedlings-Vegetables/dp/B07J6B3J4R

If you have an Amazon account or a Wall Mart nearby they are damn close to a buck a piece. Be careful of taking them as you go as the landlord might try to claim it against your security deposit.

If you pay your own electric get some low wattage LED bulbs and then just leave the cheapest ones you can find from a box store or the dollar store you can find behind. You'll likely save more than the price of the bulb in energy going with LED or similar.

save yourself some money and replace the bulb with an LED model, or get one of these light bulb kits and a very long fiberglass pole.

They look to be Edison style bulbs so they are made to not be very bright so you can enjoy the filament design
http://www.amazon.com/Bushwick-Vintage-Edison-type-Bulb-ST58/dp/B00FLXG8IO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408213418&sr=8-1&keywords=edison+bulb

I think it gives out a nice ceiling pattern (as shown in the following link), and less direct light under the lamp.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B003RPUCLW/ref=cm_cr_dp_cust_img_see_all_img0

I use this one.

Edison bulbs definitely look different.

Problem solved!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000256QZQ/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/188-9482942-8578937

Well, the light bulb bit anyway.

I just bought a viparspectra 600w. I've been looking into lights a little more and I think I might have found another light source I'd like to throw in my tent. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J6B3J4R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2QmkDbKC15V8F

Not too sure just yet but I was thinking of building my own with a few of those.

Get your pen and paper sweatie.

I use top of the line lighting to capture my baby soft skin and I only shoot 📸 my best side.

If you have 20k laying around you can get it at Bergdorf’s.

Or here for poor pores.

Edit2: link again

The chandelier? Not sure about the fixture itself but if you want the bulbs they're just called Edison bulbs and can be found all over.

edit: Nevermind, found it.

Boo-yah or, if you'd rather have shorter one, BAM

They make things for that!

Would this light work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07J6B3J4R/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A135IBEV9A45CL&psc=1

I think the 150 and 600 are both equivalent and not actual wattage

Gotta put it somewhere. That's why they make these.

My guess is that those are mirrored lightbulbs. They used to be quite common, especially in that style of fixture.

https://www.amazon.com/Bulbrite-40G25HM-Chrome-Globe-Shape/dp/B000GWIKTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527442393&sr=8-1&keywords=mirrored+lightbulb

And you should look into linear lights. https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-hood.html this is the kind I got, we will be replacing it with a 10.0 bulb. The domes arnt awful, if youre just putting in bulbs for basking. (we use https://www.amazon.com/Philips-415307-Plant-Light-120-Watt/dp/B008ATH95W/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1526517310&sr=8-7&keywords=plant+grow+bulbs) Dont use color bulbs the blue/ red light that are recommended for chams are not needed/can blind them

That fixture would look incredible with Edison bulbs. The only problem is I’m not sure if they would give off enough functional light for a kitchen. They might make the space too dark.

Not an electrician, but the answer is going to be no, you shouldnt even attempt it.

I mean you could rewire it with lower guage wire and replace the fixture, to get it rated for 250w but then you also need to think about the paint and shit that's around the light getting hot.

For ~10 bucks you can buy one:

Woods Clamp Lamp with 10 Inch Reflector And Bulb Guard (300 Watt Bulb, 6 Foot Cord) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XV8QOU