(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best industrial heat-shrink tubing

Looks like a great start!

Having some experience in automotive wiring, some pointers:

• Strain relief, strain relief, strain relief! You seem to already appreciate this, but it's amazing what 100,000 miles of road vibration can do to a single dangling bundle.
  
• Sealing is critical! Anything that might be exposed to the outside world must have proper boots and seals. Any moisture getting into a connector will cause it to eventually fail.
  
• Service loops! It's always a good idea to leave an extra inch or two at the end of every termination, twisted into a loop. When you inevitably mis-pin a connector or a crimp fails, you will be very, very glad you did.
  
• Abrasion resistance! All looms running outside of boxes need to be covered with some sort of shield, even if you think they can't possible move. This can be as simple as split-loom, or as serious as putting everything inside DR-25 heat-shrink. If you use the latter, you can combine it with epoxy-sealed connector boots to create fully watertight and strain relieved harnesses (which is probably overkill unless you're building an endurance racecar).
  
• Concentric twist is the shit. If you have the patience, it will give you mind-bendingly flexible bundles.
  
• For labeling your unterminated ends, you can get some assorted-color heat shrink like this, cut them into 1/8" collars, and use a code to denote pin number (the resistor color code works, if you have enough colors which this kit doesn't).
  
  Happy wiring! We have always had a lack of sexy vehicle wiring around here so I look forward to following your project!

Some chargers allow you to see it right there as it’s charging. You just want to look at the ohms.

I would guess that your battery is fine. I have batteries that are pretty beat up. I “risk” it more than others by continuing to fly them. I always remove my packs after flying and place them in a safe spot separate from all my gear. Then at the end of the day I make sure everything is storage charged and balanced. Once I see a pack has cells that are more than .1 volts out of balance I consider retiring it.

One other tip to extend your batteries life. Get some heavy duty heat shrink. Like this:

Uxcell a12080700ux0467 Ratio 2:1 50mm Dia Clear Polyolefin Heat Shrinkable Tube 2M 6.6Ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IIOVI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WF3kDb09T767D

Much more durable than the really thin heat shrink that comes on the packs.

Oh I'm still talking about 3s - in fact this is the exact battery I'm using, but to each their own.

What kv are those motors? Also, how wide are your esc's? The size of the heat shrink depends on the size of your stuff. I believe I used this heat shrink for my esc's, but mine are pretty small. If you want to be safe I recommend a set of heat shrink such as this or this.

I personally don't use braided wire but I've herad that this one isn't too bad.

Make sure to get that power supply! It'd be a very sad thing if you get can't charge your batteries but have everything else done.

I guess they call it "Adhesive" but works the same way: https://www.amazon.com/HEAT-SHRINK-TUBING-SEALANT-SEACHOICE/dp/B00J901MRM When you heat it up, it shrinks and the adhesive oozes out to make a water proof seal. SouthMainAuto channel on YouTube sold me on the shit. lol

It's great for electrical work (trailers and the like) because it helps seal out water. But it should work for anything you need shrink tubing for, especially if you don't want it to slide around if you used a size just a tad too big. I got one of those assortment boxes off of Amazon for like $10. There might be a better deal if you poke around.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKCQPKK

>I'm fairly ignorant of electric systems on boats.


I hope you're comfortable with how basic 12VDC electrics work and are asking about how to wire them in a marine environment.


Preface, I'm not a certified marine electrician but I've done a ton of work re-wiring, custom work on all kinds of sail and power boats.


Tools:
>I do have a cheap harbor freight multi-meter

good, now you're going to need a way to crimp those shitty connectors and some dielectric grease.


Unless of course you want to solder all your connections (this is my preference as it doesn't vibrate loose or corrode as quickly), then follow NASA's soldering method s and yuu'll need some rosin cored solder and and a soldering iron, you'll also need to use a crimp connector without the pre-molded shrink wrap and some heat shrink tubing


Ok... got your tools? great, now for supplies.


You'll need a buss bar on your ground


Measure how much wire you need, (are you re-wiring the mast?) and use 14/2 AWG marine grade wire.


If you're only using 1 battery you can get away with a simple switch like this. From the devices & lights you listed It sounds like you can use 10AWG to connect your battery to your switch then to the 14 gang panel.


You'll need a way to label your wires, I use one of these but if you're doing one job you might want to use something cheaper.

Ok... now on the to the fun part


Plan where you're going to mount your panel and pull a single RED 10AWG from there to your battery shut off switch and another strand from you battery to the switch.


Pull 10 AWG from the battery to the buss bar.


pull all the 14awg from the lights to the panel labeling each 14/2 wire as you go


red goes to the fuse block, black goes to the buss bar then to the negative on the gang block, label everything at the connection points, big red wire goes from battery switch to the bolt on the 14 gang, big black wire goes to the buss bar.


install new things, as each device is hooked up test the fuse and switch, then install the new thing.

Edit: I forgot to mention, use dielectric grease on all metal fittings to reduce corrosion.


edit 1: put a fuse between your battery and shut off ont the red wire

Sure! Found this kit from a reputable vendor: https://www.amazon.com/532pcs-Shrink-Tubing-innhom-Approved/dp/B075WR9FVL/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2D9Y44OEO8I5J&keywords=heat+shrink&qid=1564436097&s=gateway&sprefix=Heat+shrink%2Caps%2C217&sr=8-5

Amen to that! Nah you don't need any extra tools, not for private use at least. I own a heatgun but 99% of the times I'd just use a regular lighter. Can't confirm a hairdryer would work but yes, if it's hot enough :)

Take it and own it! I have a plain brown collapsible walking stick and am thinking of decorating it with paint and nail polish etc. But to protect it all I'm going to coat the whole thing with clear heat shrink tuning like it's used for electronics. It'll be like a rubber coating so should help it last longer.

This sort of thing.
https://www.amazon.com/Heat-Shrink-Tubes-Dual-Tubing/dp/B07MPP1G6G/ref=mp_s_a_1_3

Now just to think up an idea! Eeek.

it doesn't look bad, but if I were you I'd invest in these because it's cheap and easy to re-wrap with and it'll save your batteries from having to be tossed. http://www.amazon.com/29-5MM-%C2%A6%C2%B518-5MM-Shrink-Tubing-Battery/dp/B00OPXLEXK/ref=pd_cp_p_3

The PA on this belt changes it from a POS imitator into something really secure. Most belts like this you have to wear so tight it's uncomfortable, otherwise you can just slip right out. But with the PA attachment at the end of the tube you are unable to escape at all. So I wear it a bit looser and it's much more comfortable.

Properly adjusted this belt is the most secure thing I've found. Pull out is impossible. I've tried everything to cum and it's all useless. Removing the belt without a key is as close to impossible as it gets. Sure, I could cut the belt off, but the penis would still be secure inside the tube. The steel is really hard. I tried to increase the size of one of the urination holes and ended up dulling drill bits even on a drill press with drilling oil. I've worn it for full month long periods with no problems. Currently I'm working my way through a 365 day sentence.

To keep it clean I shower 3-4 times per week. I use a detachable hand held shower head sprayer to shoot water up into all the cracks and holes. When I sit to pee I use a small 100ml plastic irrigation syringe with water to squirt into the penis tube. This flushes out the urine and keeps it clean. Once a month my wife restrains me to the bondage table and removes it for inspection. Every time, the penis has come out looking clean and happy with no issues. If I've been good she might decide to play with it before putting it away and releasing me. The key is kept in a portable realtor lock box with 5 digit code.

I just looked back through my photos all the way to when I bought the belt in January of 2017 and don't see any pics that show the tube open. It seems that any time it's open my hands are restrained so I can't touch anything down there; And thus no pics... Sorry. I will ask my wife to take a few next time she opens it for an inspection.

I replaced the stock chain with titanium rings from The Ring Lord. I can't seem to find the link to the place where I got the replacement lock. I think the size is 3/8" length, 7/16" diameter, 1" long cam.

Getting the size of the belt correct took several months of adjusting and wearing to determine the right size. The waist belt is very adjustable but is kind of thin metal. Someday that will get replaced. Once I got it the right size, I stopped using the provided silicone liner which sucked because it wouldn't stay on. I was using E-tape to hold it in place. Now it's held on by heat shrink tubing. I shrunk it down by putting the whole belt in the oven at minimum temp. All of the bolts have been replaced with 3/16" stainless rivets which are more durable. I couldn't find them anywhere but my local ACE Hardware. Neither Lowes nor Home Depot had Stainless.

The cable between the legs makes it really convenient for defecation. Just pull it to one side as I sit and there's no mess. The original cable was kind of thin and broke right at the end after a month of constant wear. I upgraded to a heavier duty cable with Stainless Steel Aircraft Wire Rope Swage Eye Terminals. I had to buy a 10 ton terminal crimper to make that connection permanent. The eye ends of the swage eyes have been ground down by an angle grinder to make them thinner, and then a stainless washer helps the rivet grab onto the material.

Two things:
First if you want to "fix" what you have then I recomned you get some Heat Shrink Tubing. Shove the wires in like you have been put lighter or some other heat source under to tube and it will shrink to make so the cable will not come out any more.

Second: The reason that the cord comes out of the headphones is so that you can replace it with out having to replace your headphone. You can buy the Bose brand cable here, buy my guess any 1/8" to 1/8" cable will work.

Hope that helps

Paracord-

This is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JPJDBK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You really have endless options, this store on amazon has almost 600 different paracord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Z1QOTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1

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The Wire-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G2SWB19/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or (These are just the 2 I bought, I am sure there are others out there)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KQ2JNLI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Bodkin-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WMFVRA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (To Thread the Paracord through. I stripped the ends of the 4 wire, twisted 2 and 2 together, threaded through the back hole, twisted those combined wires together, and then heat shrinked the over it with the small clear one in the box (link shown later))

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Heat Shrink-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KT25J42/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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USB Type A-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G9FLG28/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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JST 2.0 ph 5 pin connector (There is way more here than you will need as it comes with 5/6/7 pin connectors. Most mice use the 5 pin)-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077LYP4T9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Wire Strippers- As Long as they go to 30AWG, you should be good. This is just a cheap option

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D25N45F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Precision Screw Drivers-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747DYJJR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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A Third Hand (Not needed but will probably make your life easier)-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076WSZLDL/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B076WSZLDL&pd_rd_w=IeORA&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=SCnJH&pf_rd_r=AKZJGB4959GQT25YX2ZJ&pd_rd_r=cf871c96-9c47-11e9-99da-dd5cbc43a5ca

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You will also need a soldering iron, and thin solder, the points to solder are small. https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Diameter-Storage-Electrical-Electronics/dp/B01N0VNNKO/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=solder&qid=1562018188&s=gateway&sr=8-5&th=1

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Other references I used:

https://www.overclock.net/forum/375-mice/1588984-mice-cable-pin-arrangement-internal-connector-size-database.html#/topics/1588984

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https://www.reddit.com/r/MouseReview/comments/7xtnyi/diy_how_to_make_your_own_paracord_cable_for_any/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

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*Unless you have replacement mouse feet, be careful removing your current set*

Second on shrink tubing. I started doing this for my 2x123 lights a couple years ago, then I found I could buy pre-wrapped primary cells at Battery Junction. Makes battery swaps easier to do in the dark, for sure.

AAA's are 10.5mm...get some 12mm shrink tubing - good to go.

Are you referring to this mod?

This setup has held up perfectly for me for daily use. I'm actually waiting for the heat shrink to erode so I can space out the magnets evenly. I did this on my first try, and I never bothered fixing it.

I also have an Olight (with a magnet on the tailcap), but I much prefer this setup since a magnet on the tailcap only provides light in one angle. With magnets on the clip, I can swivel the clip which allows light to be cast in different angles. The heat shrink also provides a nice soft coating for the clip.

Easy fix. Anyone saying to cut the loop off has never actually strength tested these loops.

Watch the end of this video.

To fix your loop instead of cutting it off, buy polyolefin tubing. 3-5mm should be about right.

Next, buy a heat gun.

Cut a short length of tubing, slide it over the end of your line, and waft the heat gun so the tubing shrinks and the line inside it liquefies but does not burn. Let it cool, then peel the heat shrink back off (use a pair of tying scissors to snip it and get it started so you can peel it).

It'll be good as new. You can also cut that one off and make another if you want a new loop. Fly lines have about 2 feet of level tip material to allow for this kind of cutting.

No knot is as strong as a welded loop. Welded loops were about 3X stronger on average than every knot I tested, sometimes more. Here is my original thread on the tests I did.

Here are the results of my strength tests for the Fly Rod & Reel article:

Knot Break Strength - Tested to failure with Boga Grip using 20 lbs. monofilament

|Knot | Test 1 | Test 2|
|---------|----------|----------|
|Nail Knot (5 Turns) | 10 lbs. | 10 lbs.|
|Albright Knot (5 Turns) | 12 lbs. | 12 lbs.|
|Doubled-Line Nail Knot| (6 Turns) 8 lbs. | 10 lbs.|
|Double Surgeon’s Knot | (20 lb. to 20 lb.) 14 lbs. | 18 lbs.|
|Castwell Knot | 13 lbs. | 12 lbs.|
|Welded Loop | 20 lbs. X 3 attempts (see video)|

I bought a set of 24 gauge hookup wire in 6 colors, which is very helpful for keeping things clear.

I’ve also found that heat shrink tubing is helpful for insulating loose joints (eg direct connections between LED and current-limiting resistors) and offering extra color-coding options.

In reference to the heat shrink tubing, I recently discovered the existence of adhesive lined heat shrink. I’m now replacing all my shrink tubing with adhesive lined. The adhesive creates an internal structure to withstand bending. And it’s water proof. I hope this helps anyone!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LMDFSS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_fYrdAb5G9EKQN

If I notice the ESC is damaged I won’t reuse it. But I lazily changed some motors by just cutting and folding the shrink enough to just expose the motor connections, then tape it back. So I definitely could have been using messed up ESCs sometimes.

Yea, I use pretty thick heat shrink, maybe too thick. It also doesn’t shrink super tight on everything.
HUAHA 16 Ft 2:1 Heat Shrink Tubing Wire Wrap Cable Sleeves (Diameter 0.5", Clear) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LAWB1E0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_deroDbGAD24AT

There are 3D printed covers for ESCs with air holes, maybe I should get them instead. My friends have similar builds, one a 6S which he’s only burnt one motor in the time I burnt 11. My other friend has the same components but has 4S Silk motors. Neither of their ESCs have been damaged and they heatshrink like I do, but may be thinner heat shrink.

I'm just going to leave this here.

This is for after you get an extension that you are happy with.

https://www.amazon.com/WindyNation-20-Feet-Black-Adhesive/dp/B07LB9BYC8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=20+ft+3%2F4+inch+heat+shrink+glue&qid=1562656464&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Buy a battery sleeve and rewrap it. Please use a battery cover as well to keep this from happening. https://www.amazon.com/Ninth-City-Assorted-29-5MM%C2%A6%C2%B518-5MM-Battery-Storage/dp/B016F50SJG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474188280&sr=8-2&keywords=18650+battery+sleeve

Plastic like say the stock one? Wiring will be fine as long as you have no exposed wire at connections. Buy some cheap shrink tubing, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018G6CQAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2/134-3190994-9463610?ie=UTF8&qid=1493068823&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=electrical+wire+shrink+wrap&psc=1

What headlight you installing?

I got basically a lifetime supply of battery wraps (280 wraps for $18) that came in 8 different colors. I use a different matched color for each set of married batteries, and write in sharpie on the batteries themselves what kind they are (I have a couple LG HE4s and the rest of LG HG2s). You usually can read the sharpie through the wrap. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016F50SJG?

Along the same lines... you could finish the tails with a little heat shrink tubing, maybe 1/4 inch heat shrink, then leave an inch or so to fray... trim to suite. Or with a folded end as you have, and larger heat shrink.