Reddit mentions: The best nut & bolt assortment sets

I've owned the Ender 3 for a few months now and have made a number of upgrades, both purchased and printed. Here's a list of what I have purchased and printed, sorted by importance/usefulness.

 

Purchased Parts:

1. EZABL - An automatic bed leveling solution that has worked really well for me. TH3D's firmware and documentation are top notch. Once I dialed it in I've had no issues with bed leveling or adhesion. Also note, TH3D is an American company and Tim, the owner, is even a mod of this sub!
   
   
2. Stepper Motor Dampers - A great way to quiet down the printer. My bedroom and office are connected without an intervening door and the dampers allow me to print overnight and still get get to sleep. Some users have had issues with stepper motors running hot with the dampers installed, but I've had no trouble at all, even after 16+ hr prints.
   
   
3. 5015 Blower Fan - For use with the Petsfang Duct, see below.
   
   
   
4. Assorted M3 Screws - If you're going to be making mods to your printer, you're eventually going to need different sized screws. Having various lengths on hand is super helpful when trying to mount a new part.
   
    
   
   Printed Parts:
   
   
5. Filament Guide Arm - This has helped a lot with keeping the filament feeding smooth and preventing under-extrusion issues. There is a more popular model on thingiverse, but I found this version to be stronger and more stable.
   
   
6. Petsfang Cooling Fan Duct - An extremely popular replacement for the part cooling duct and fan. This creates much more even cooling around the filament as its extruded, providing better bridging and better overall print quality. There is a version using a replacement 5015 blower fan, as I have used, and there's a version called the "Bullseye" that uses the stock fan. I chose to replace the stock fan because mine was starting to rattle.
   
   
7. Tool Holder - It sounds frivolous, but having the tools you need right at hand can be a big help in saving a print or performing trouble shooting. Definitely a must have.
   
   
8. LCD Rear Cover - Protects the circuit board behind the LCD, which is exposed from the factory. If you have children like I do, this is a must.
   
   
9. Cable Chain - Routs the various cables to their destinations in a clean way. Looks super cool. Not necessary, but definitely fun. Note, there is an X-axis cable chain setup available, but I found it made excessive noise and wasn't worth the trouble.
   
   
10. Fan Shroud - Protects the main board fan from bits of filament falling down into the casing.
    
    
11. Storage Drawer - A handy little drawer that slides in next to the LCD. I store things like alcohol swabs, razor blades, and other random tools in it.
    
     
    
    Future Upgrades:
    
    Spool Roller - One issue I've found is that the stock spool holder requires excessive force from the extruder to unwind filament. A replacement spool roller with bearings should reduce the friction significantly and produce more even extrusion.
    
    Metal Extruder - A common problem with the Ender 3 is that it fails to maintain proper tension on the extruder gear, which leads to failure to feed and poor extrusion. An all-metal extruder has been known to fix the issue.
    
    
    
    
    
    

I have been doing the same thing and really enjoying it! Here is some stuff I stumbled across when I first started learning...

Getting a full 3D file like the .stl's for OLKB and slicing them using a tool like slicer can be pretty challenging. The 3D models don't have holes and often the case walls wide enough to support holes for mounting hardware.

Someone else posted it, but I would suggest starting with http://builder.swillkb.com/ and then importing your output into Inkscape (free version of Adobe Illustrator like software) and cleaning it up from there.

Mounting holes are way more complex then they might seem. The prettiest version has a small hole in the top and bottom layer, with larger holes in mid layers in which you put a standoff, then screws in from top and bottom. I now just cut uniform holes and run a bolt down to a nut on the underside. Here is a pic of each for comparison:

Standoff: https://imgur.com/gallery/NSlai4z

Bolt: https://imgur.com/gallery/5BzbrCX

Depending on the size of the bolts, they can get in the way of the space bar, so I have also tried moving them around a bit...

https://imgur.com/a/bWiHICO

Last thought is that 1/8 inch acrylic looks really nice and is pretty easy to match to metric bolt size, but it makes a crappy plate because it is too thick for the switches to clip in. I would suggest getting at least one sheet of 1/16 inch stuff and cut a bunch of plates out of it. If you can find it, get 1/16 POM (Acetal Delrin), it makes amazing plates! I get my stuff from a local plastics supply company that sells scraps, and it is still expensive vs acrylic. Don't go for the Delrin AF which is industrial grade, just basic Delrin. If you want to splurge, try making a whole case out of the stuff, it is amazing like this one:

https://imgur.com/gallery/BBNHbuR

For mounting hardware, Amazon has a ton of great M2 and M3 nuts, bolts and standoffs in assortment packages. For the recent SharkPCB, since they don't have the under PCB standoffs soldered on, I just put 2mm M2 standoffs between bottom of the case and PCB and ran a bolt up through them to get that same height of mount.

https://www.amazon.com/300pcs-Standoff-Column-Spacer-Assortment/dp/B07B9X1KY6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=m2+standoff&qid=1572535069&sr=8-3

For feet, to get a really good 6 degree tilt on my cases, I use small blister bumps up front like those that come with each OLKB kit, and then these on the back:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KGKZFQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Post pics when you are done, it is always so cool to see what other people are building! Good luck :)

Long thread incoming

We're working on resorting our hardware now, but the goal is:

• 2 racks with 4 drawers each containing our most frequently used hardware (SAE Grade 8 1/4-28, 5/16-24, and 3/8-24 mostly, all of varying lengths, plus rod ends, bearings, and of course, nuts and washers).
  
• We have an "EE corner" with all our electrical stuff, and they have a few (neatly sorted) bins of electronics connectors and fasteners.
  
• Engine-related hardware will be stored with our engine parts after we do a rebuild this spring break and document all the fasteners.
  
• Everything that doesn't fit into the above categories will be individually bagged, labeled, and stored in an overstock box. If this box becomes huge, I'm considering getting myself a storage unit and donating a chunk of it to the team.
  
• As for electronic inventory, I'm almost certain we'll have our overstock inventory stored in an Excel spreadsheet. The problem with having your common fasteners digitally inventoried is keeping tabs on it (not everyone will adjust quantity on hand when they take some parts). A solution could be to have cycle counts generated weekly, and you could script your Excel/Google sheet to automatically warn you of low quantity on hand. I'm rambling now, but the solution would be to get a hardware sponsor and have them do VMI (Vendor Manged Inventory), which isn't out of the question......
  
  If you're looking to sort your current hardware, it will take a while. This took me two weeks of 3-4 late nights in the lab after finishing my work for the day, and that was just our random bin. Still have washers to sort, as well as the fasteners already in our rack of drawers.
  That being said, I'd highly recommend getting a thread checker to accurately distinguish between different fasteners. BoltDepot.com has a lot of info on fasteners as well as printable fastener sizing charts (really useful for sorting washers).
  
  Best of luck!

Thanks for the solution. Though I did use standoffs that were maybe half as high as yours and added a fan mod on top too. Much better for long play sessions for sure.

I bought this kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B9X1KY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the fan I just used a spare one from an old PC, some clear RTV and an old USB cable.

Look into "end fasteners". They go under a couple different names but are great for making strong, square connections between extrusions.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Fastener-Aluminum-Extrusion-Profile/dp/B01HHNSMES

Just ran into that same issue. Those screws work if you're going through the case into the fan (like on the exhaust) but obviously don't really cut it going the other way. My case came with some longer screws kinda like this that I used. You could probably also use the rubber thingies like this

edit: I'm assuming you are trying to go through the front of the fan to mount it to the case on the other side of the fan, yes?

If you know the size, you can just buy a set on Amazon, in the meantime get one of those magnetic screw cups, they're good for getting screws out of carpet too. :D

Edit: Just took mine apart, the screws are magnetic, so if you rub a motor bell around your carpet you may get lucky. :D According to the high precision of the cheapest digital caliper Harbor Freight sells, the major diameter is 1.3mm and the pitch is 0.28mm. (That is, I lined the caliper up by eye, and got 1.4mm per five threads.) The shaft is about 2.8mm, the head is about 1mm thick and 2.3mm in diameter. Given the quality of my measurements, I wouldn't be at all surprised to find that the smallest M1.2 screw in this kit fits, but I don't know if I want to recommend spending $11 on one screw that might maybe fit. And obviously, this is assuming that our TS-100s use exactly identical parts. Hopefully it helps point you in the right direction, though.

Yeah, M3, maybe 10mm, maybe down to 6mm.
Been a long time since I used the stock fan shroud.
Like u/HeadOfMax said, Ace, or a small hardware store will have them.
But, might want to look at a box for the future, I like these the best: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074Q4Z2C6

Have a look at the bulldog extruder. It has a much higher clamping force on the filament. It does require you to have Marlin or T3HD firmware installed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FDSHVCN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It just works. There are a few gotchas that can be quickly resolved.

• The extruder turns in the opposite direction. It is nice that it removes the need for filament guides, but it does require you to modify configuration.h in the firmware. Toggle INVERT_E0_DIR
  
  
• Get a M3 bolt package. You will need at least 4 that are 16mm long. I bought this kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714FLXND/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as I am sure I will use them at some point.
  
  
• Prevent filament from getting wound in the extruder. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3121836
  This should also allow you to easily print TPU
  
  
• Replace the cabling attachment. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3243464

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKH3HT8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The other one linked is really pricey for what you get, this one is 2.5x as many for less. It's the kit I've got, it works really really well. Order this at the same time

I use them for tons of my prints now, put a small M3 screw into the knurled brass fitting and hold the screw with needlenose pliars in one hand. In the other, press your soldering iron into the hex hole in the top of the screw (should be a short screw). This will heat up the knurled fitting and help you put it in straight.

Here's a couple photos of a couple of project boxes I made

I ordered this set to have spares for XD and wins that I repair. let me find link...
Small Screws Assortment Kit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKNCM8Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If you often play guess the thread one of these is pretty handy.
https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Thread-Checker-Inch-Metric/dp/B003FJW0GK/

If not, go to the hardware store and get some metric and see fasteners in that diameter range to test fit.
Most likely a coarse thread.

screw set.

Probably could use either. The recommended ones fit right into the heat sink fan, another set might sit over the fan and need to be a little longer?
Above is a simple kit.

How does it work? I'd worry about the security of the light and the printed part sliding down the rack arms. Is it easy to remove for charging? With all the effort of printing a part it'd be nice to not have visible zip ties; easier to still if you can see what to cut. When I started printing parts I bought an assorted bolt kit for little projects.

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-515pcs-Metric-Socket-Assortment/dp/B074Q4Z2C6/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=5mm+bolt+kit&qid=1568517024&s=gateway&sr=8-6

You are inevitably going to need various metric bolts, they are a necessity when doing mods/upgrades on 3D printers. I would strongly suggest picking up an assortment pack like this one just to have them on hand.

According to Google, you guys have Ace Hardware in Canada. Should check and see what the closest one is to you, that is where I buy a lot of my last minute metric hardware when a project calls for something I don't have.

I've built some portable walls for gallery displays, that sort of thing.

If it isn't going to be seen from all angles, that will make it quite a bit easier. If it is, that just means you need to sheath both sides of things and plan access to your hardware.

A simply way to go about this is to look into some knockdown bed hardware (http://www.amazon.com/FURNITURE-BOLT-ALLEN-HEAD-BARREL/dp/B006ZLKVU2/) and in the framing for your walls, build in 2-4 structural points for these bolts.

When you get on site, you line up your sections and lock them in quickly using an electric driver.

As far as making it stable, if you've got a shape like the image you've shown, then by connecting the walls to the back and then running one bolt from each wall into the counter, I think you'd be all set.

Yep, floating top. I ran three stretches between the long side skirts and used these.

(Pack of 20) Desktop Fasteners Figure 8, Heavy Duty 12 Gauge Steel, Table Top Connector, Desk Top Hold Down Fasteners Clip by Podoy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MYWQCWH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b3vKDbJ5P199K

They pivot to allow for wood movement.

I have this and it's pretty good.

great job! head on down to those home stores and get a barrel bolt! no pocket snags. Like This

https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Binding-Slotted-Suitable-Stainless/dp/B06VVK5T3V

Then I'll back up Ottawa fastener...they've been great in the past.

​

Or, if you can wait: https://www.amazon.ca/Hilitchi-180-Piece-Stainless-Socket-Assortment/dp/B01MU4O1FJ/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=vesa+screws+m4&qid=1574384568&sr=8-17

Cam locks:
https://www.amazon.com/Flyshop-Furniture-10-Sets-Self-tapping/dp/B07924BCP4

Googling "knock down construction" can usually help you find the associated hardware. If you are building new, cross dowels are a way stronger way to get the same style joint.

https://www.amazon.com/Desktop-Fasteners-Figure-Connector-Fastener/dp/B07MYWQCWH


Are those the clips you mean? Never knew these existed, so interesting option! Thanks! I think these might be the next best option if screw in nuts are a no go.

You could also fix it with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-M5x10mm-Socket-Thread-Insert/dp/B01AXY9AQW/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_2?keywords=barbed+body+hex+insert+nuts&qid=1570715164&sr=8-2-fkmr3

These take a metric screw, but you can find english threaded versions as well. I prefer this type that "screws" in with an allen wrench vs the type with little barbs that you press/pound in. In either case you will most likely need to make the existing hole bigger to accommodate the insert. How much bigger depends on the size of insert that you get.

Not familiar with the bed set, but took a quick look at the video you linked. Maybe something like:




uxcell Knock Down Furniture Cam Lock Fitting Dowel Assembly 11 Sets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ESUZIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aCpSDb7KJCSSM

There are others, but this one works very well.

Nut & Bolt Thread Checker (Inch & Metric) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FJW0GK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4lnUCbTMAM5TT

This thing has saved me so much time and headache. Especially if you are working on something you are not familiar with or can't get a visual on the bolt. They are china quality and get lost easily. So if you go this route grab a few.

If you're okay with visible attachments, bolts; these can be hidden with semi-permanent wood plugs (dowel rods work well for this). Basically, just fill the hole with a dowel (no glue, just friction fit) and cut flush. To remove drill a screw into the plug and use a pliers to pull out.

For hidden knock down fastening your options would be:

Joint connectors

Cross dowel bolts

get a battery nut, they are rectangular instead of hex so they can slide under the terminal and then you just tighten like normal

They're called barrel nuts and come in a variety of dimensions. You'll need to make sure you buy some that match the size you need.

yeah, since asking, I've realized I will likely need to just do that.... also: thread checkers... holy cow. something like this... I could keep this in the shop no problem. at first, I thought you were talkingg about the boards I've seen - hadn't seen one like this before... too cool.

http://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Thread-Checker-Inch-Metric/dp/B003FJW0GK

Barrel Nut

$30 on Amazon, no work required.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FJW0GK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If it was critical, a professional would probably have that bolt called out in a drawing somewhere. If not, these come in handy - essentially an organized version of trying different screws until you get the right one. Completely legitimate method - just be careful to not cross thread.

Small Screws Assortment Kit Hotetey 18 Kinds M1.2 / M1.4 / M2.0 Tiny Micro Screws Set for Glasses Watches (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKNCM8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_paV0Db3RXGEXW

I'd make the dealership deal with it since they fucked it up in the first place.

But if your dead set on figuring it out yourself head to your local hardware store. I'm talking like your local joint like an Ace or something small along those lines, not a big box store. Pair up with one of the staff and take their thread checker out to the vehicle and figure out what size threads your looking for. Alternatively bring in an existing dash bolt that fits and check it in store. Then buy the hardware you need.