Reddit mentions: The best power reciprocating saws

Popular woodworking and fine woodworking have tool reviews online, you can also try sorting by review on amazon.


For my own two cents; all the power tools from Festool, Panasonic, makita, and Hitachi I've used have been good (although the Festool stuff is overpriced, panasonic only makes a couple tools, and the Hitachi hand power tools look super goofy).


If you're looking for hand-tools, I've been slowly collecting Lie Nielsen stuff because I hate money, but the best value is antique. I have some old Stanely tools (new stuff is mostly crap) and Disston saws which are nice. If you're buying new, Lie Nielsen make nice tools and Veritas has a great reputation. Clifton planes are supposed to be nice, and might be a better deal in the UK. There are a handful of brand people like which might require a little tuning up (footprint, woodriver, narex, pax).

When I was a teenager my dad got me an Easton blue Z-Core baseball bat. I had been begging for one for a while but he kept saying they were too expensive (which was true). But for Christmas he forked the $350 down and got it for me.

It was the only time during my childhood that I felt like I "won" Christmas against my older brother and sister. Usually this title was reserved for my sister who would go clothes shopping with mom and end up hauling $400-$500 dollars worth of clothes.

Now as an adult though I find it much more pleasing to give awesome gifts than receive them. Although I have it on good authority that my father-in-law is getting me this for Christmas this year and I am quite excited.

I highly recommend you assemble your own, according to a youtube video like this one: YouTube link


Why build your own: Everything is superior in a saw for this application, the price is wildly lower than purpose built massagers, the travel on the reciprocation is superior, the power is higher, the battery will last an order of magnitude longer per charge, and you can adjust the speed of the massage.


Efficacy: I built mine a couple years ago, and use it to treat posterior chain tightness, an issue I have struggled with my whole life. I play a field sport (Ultimate), and by the time the season started my calves were rocks, my hamstrings were pulled, and my planters fasciitis was keeping me up at night and out of play. This changed immediately with the use of the massager, loosening everything up, and keeping me training, and in tournaments longer than ever. My teammates, wary at first, use it constantly now (A benefit of the long lasting battery), and nearly every team at tournaments has at least one on their sidelines. In our experience (admittedly anecdotal) the massager speeds recovery, loosens sore and knotted muscles, prevents muscle pulls and of course increases comfort.


Here are the 2 things you need to make your own for ~100$
The saw I used, by far the most popular, around $70: Amazon link

A selection of Massage Ends that for the saw: Amazon link

Let me know if you have any questions!
Edit:Formatting

Ok. I dunno what tools you've got or how brave you are feeling.

I can see several approaches:

1. Kick in the door. Contrary to what some people have said, it's actually not that tough, though in some places people have pretty well fortified apartments. I dunno about your building. The basic trick is that you want to focus your body weight on your foot which should hit the door at the height of the lock mechanism, but a few inches towards the center. This will probably flex the door enough to pop it open, and/or break the doorjamb inside.
   
   
2. Cut a hole in the door big enough for the cat to run out. Maybe with a hole saw (you will need a drill) http://www.amazon.com/EazyPower-Hole-Saw-CornHole-Boards/dp/B000YC1XUK/ or a reciprocating saw http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW304PK-Amp-Reciprocating-Saw/dp/B0002AJNQ0/
   
   
3. Locksmith. This is probably the easiest/cheapest/quietest, just pretend you are related to the dude and explain the approximate circumstances (e.g., "my uncle is in the hospital and we don't know where his keys are and we need to get the cat out").
   
   
4. Make a hole through the wall between your apartment and his. You could probably do this pretty quietly with a hand saw if you don't want anyone to know immediately, though ultimately the truth will be pretty obvious. You could probably do this pretty quickly with a reciprocating saw, but they're not quiet.
   
   
5. Attack the grate - I would think about the reciprocating saw again, or else drilling out the rivets that hold the grate together, they're probably weaker than the metal of the slats. You might also have some good luck using a jack (like for a car) or a pry bar to push the slats away from the wall where they're attached.
   

If he doesn't have a reciprocating saw they're a godsend for certain projects when you have to cut out old rusty parts. Plus they're amazing in hundreds of other tasks around house and beyond.

DEWALT DWE305 12 Amp Corded Reciprocating Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N5FLVM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2jI-zb2DWK7BJ

Something like this is really nice. I would stick with a good brand like DeWalt or Milwaukee if you buy one.

No worries! Below is a link to a circular saw by Skill (or you can search “circular saw” on amazon. It’s one of the first results and is just over $60). It’s kind of the bread and butter of circular saws. It’s the one everyone has. It’s the one I have (minus the laser)! Good saw and it can be used for a whole lot of stuff. Different tool than what is shown above, however. The posted tool is a planer which helps make boards a uniform thickness.

skill saw

Edit: After reading your comment again, he’s definitely asking for the circular saw; however, if you’re already buying tools and want to buy more tools, a reciprocating saw would work way better for something like cutting through a wall. It’s a good general purpose tool as well (I’d stick with the circular saw if you’re only getting one though).

reciprocating saw

> Are you sure you're talking the same models?

I can read and compare model numbers, thanks.

> Not sure how familiar you are with the different models but I have never seen cheaper prices on Amazon than HD.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2720-20-SAWZALL-Reciprocating-Bare/dp/B00G0GLULQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=54MH25H6FHO8&keywords=2720-20&qid=1566641023&s=gateway&sprefix=2720%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-1

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-SAWZALL-Reciprocating-Saw-Tool-Only-2720-20/204410458

Well now you have.

> Not sure why you care about hurting or bit hurting a gargantuan brick and mortar like HD.

I’m steelmanning things before someone like yourself comes in to say I’m destroying America by not patronizing hardware and home improvement chains. Yes, talking to employees or other customers/DIYers does provide value, just not $82 worth every time I go.

I got the Milwaukee 2767-20 specifically because that model sports moderately higher torque than other apparently similar Milwaukee impacts (as of several years ago - maybe new models are even more powerful). I also got the 2719-20 Hackzall which has a brushless motor (apparently what "Fuel" means). However, my dad has the standard-motor 2625-20 Hackzall which is significantly cheaper and works just as well - so I think I'd recommend that one instead.

You might consider picking up replacement bolts before you attack the originals. Even if you do get them out, I think there's a good chance they'll be unusable after you're done. Not sure if they're M12, 1/2", or something else, but any hardware or big-box home store will have something you can use to replace them. Grade 5 (standard) or 8.8 (metric) would almost certainly be fine, but I suppose grade 8 or 12.9 couldn't hurt.

Last but not least, some folks go bonkers over the thought of driving a TJ on the road with disconnected sway bar(s). I DD'd my TJ for 3 months on Atlanta interstates with both sway bars disconnected. It handled like a big ol' town car. I do recommend sway bars for highway driving, but my TJ did not spontaneously flip, wobble, skid, oversteer, understeer, or combust.

Yeah, people are nuts. I can't imagine what would inspire someone to use a chainsaw for what would should be near-finishing quality of work on the interior of a home. I wonder what his next trick was... boil the chainsaw so it was sterile enough to perform an appendectomy with?

======================

I have one of these Milwaukee cordless sawzalls that would have worked nicely for what he was going at. It's small enough to get in at the angle needed, it's got great power, and can be used with a single hand. But I'd use it because I already have it... if I didn't I just grab any number of hand saws that'd make short work of that cut.


But a chainsaw? WTF??

I really appreciate the response. So I narrowed my search down and I am definitely getting him the DCF887B, along with DCD791 (kit https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK283D2-Lithium-Brushless-Compact/dp/B01A08YKV6/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1498459399&sr=8-11&keywords=dewalt+kit)

I was able to find out from him that he needs a sawzall, aka a reciprocating saw. Is there a unit you would recommend? I am looking at these ones:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS380B-20-Volt-Li-Ion-Reciprocating/dp/B007NVSTCK/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1498459181&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt+sawzall

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS367B-Brushless-Compact-Reciprocating/dp/B01M69K91R/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1498459181&sr=1-2&keywords=dewalt+sawzall

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS387B-20-volt-Compact-Reciprocating/dp/B00ODN0S70/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1498459181&sr=1-3&keywords=dewalt+sawzall

Thank you!

I'll second what some folks here have said: get a drill/impact driver combo and a reciprocating saw. Drill/driver are the most used power tools any homeowner has and the recip saw is perfect for demo work with your fixer upper.

Talking brands, there's a lot of options, but I would attempt to stick with a quality brand like Bosch, Milwaukee, Makita, Dewalt or maybe Ridgid. You can likely get a deal on a drill/driver combo kit with a couple batteries and charger and then buy the recip saw as a bare tool (no batteries) to save some cash.

For example you could get this Bosch [Drill/Driver Combo](Bosch CLPK232A-181 18V Lithium-Ion Cordless Drill Driver / Impact Combo Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CQP9QC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.Jnzyb96696P0) for $150 with 2 batteries and charger then add this Bosch [Recip Saw bare tool ](Bosch Bare-Tool CRS180B 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Reciprocating Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ECEDEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KLnzybTACYY2W) for another $100.

This is your best friend for exhaust work

http://www.amazon.com/SKIL-9216-01-120-Volt-9-Amp-Reciprocating/dp/B004W5ZAFO/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1408038254&sr=1-2&keywords=reciprocating+saw

Also, remove the 2 bolts on the drivers side of the panhard bar and let it lower down to give you a bit more room with the connectors

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/fastredponycar/Mustangs/2012/Exhaust/tn_P1050013.jpg

Loosen but don't remove this bolt on the passenger side to allow it to rotate down

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/fastredponycar/Mustangs/2012/Exhaust/tn_P1050011.jpg

And using a floor jack under the mid pipe can help separate that joint. Pushing up on the mid pipe and pulling down on the muffler is what I had to do to get my stock mufflers off

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/fastredponycar/Mustangs/2012/Exhaust/tn_P1050013.jpg

I also used my knees to pull the mufflers towards the front of the car to slip them off that rubber mount

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/fastredponycar/Mustangs/2012/Exhaust/tn_P1050006.jpg

There's a great movie called Top Secret! It's got Val Kilmer in it. In it, there's a device that's essentially a reciprocating saw and a dildo. The man who used it supposedly "dies of pleasure."

So rather than blueprints, have a link.

Got you covered:

https://smile.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BDCR20B-Lithium-Reciprocating/dp/B00IP27DFA/

I'm not going to address your obvious roommate issues but perhaps a solution is to get your own climate control for your room. A small floor or window AC unit or a space heater would keep your space at your desired temperature and they can freeze/overheat if they want.

These are some options I've found for my 60%

https://flashquark.com/product/60-hard-shell-carrying-case-with-handle/

Not specifically made for carrying a keyboard, but could easily work:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKTK686/?coliid=I34EY177ASCVP1&colid=3320TGSSH9XK7&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4MX19P/?coliid=I3C9RZFL45EIMN&colid=3320TGSSH9XK7&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Some not so hard options that work just fine:

https://www.switchsmith.co/collections/sleeves/products/40-stuffed-sleeper
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MRK233I/?coliid=I3VY2B8MWJSS7M&colid=3320TGSSH9XK7&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

as an addon to your comment about building your own kit. for someone working under sinks the compact recip saw would easily be the more useful tool vs the full size one.

The one OP posted might fit your saw - hard to tell without seeing the base of the blade.
The attachment you bought is typically used with this reciprocating saw:
https://www.amazon.com/WORX-WX508L-9-Recip-Tool-Only/dp/B078JHDX1G/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1536160948&sr=1-3&keywords=WORX+Reciprocating+Saw

It would probably work just fine with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BDCR20B-Lithium-Reciprocating/dp/B00IP27DFA/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1536161044&sr=1-3&keywords=black+and+decker+Reciprocating+Saw

(40$)

Seems like a good investment. DEWALT DWE305 12 Amp Corded Reciprocating Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N5FLVM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Mp31BbCFQNYE0

I have an 18v dewalt that I really like.

I use it w/ a 20v li-on battery and adapter, it even is handy in the yard with a pruning blade.

I would recommend the 20v version

Not a bad reciprocating saw, although if you can push your budget up a little bit you can get the Makita 15 amp AVT saw on amazon for $164.50 (regular price $220).

• It is more powerful, 15 amp Vs. 11 amp
  
  
• It has a a 1 1/4" stroke vs 1 1/8"
  
  
• Variable speed with dial control.
  
  
• 4 position orbital/straight cutting
  
  
• AVT technology for reduced vibration
  
  
• Clutch to protect gears if the blade binds.
  
  
• Comes in a very very nice old school all metal case.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009OR92E/ref=psdc_552950_t1_B01E7YXX3U
  
  
  The JR3050T is nice, but for just a bit more you get a much better saw. While the street price for the AVT saw is about $220 the msrp is $372, this is a heavy duty industrial tool that should last a very long time.
  
  https://youtu.be/VeJWh_ukgK0
  
  Just look at that case. No weak plastic here.
  https://www.cpooutlets.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-cpo-master-catalog/default/dwa28b8fa7/product_media/mkt/mktnjr3070ct/images/xlarge/mktnjr3070ct_a.jpg
  
  
  
  
  
  

Here is the amazon link so you don’t have to go through whatever that third party website is.

https://www.amazon.de/Makita-Recipros%C3%A4ge-1010-W-JR3050T/dp/B0009OR91U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542663328&sr=8-2&keywords=reciprocating+saw

First one I found with an adjustable shoe and <100 Euro.

And believe me, you want a recip with an adjustable shoe.

Makita also has the best blade change mechanism that I've seen. Only thing this one is missing is a rafter hook.

But if anyone finds another brand with an adjustable shoe & a rafter hook then just go with that instead.

I say get a corded Dewalt ~$80.00, save yourself some money


http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWE304-10-Amp-Reciprocating-Saw/dp/B00ODN1CP2

This'll get you them 35's =)

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWE304-10-Amp-Reciprocating-Saw/dp/B00ODN1CP2/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CW5A95XGFAB3QF1YQM48

I provide you a solution...think of it as a key to open all doors :)

I highly recommend this one.

DEWALT DCS367B 20V Max XR Brushless Compact Reciprocating Saw, (Tool Only), https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M69K91R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z.JzCbTWYW9FA

Carpenter here, my opinion

• Slide Miter - Duel bevel Makita: Accuracy, Smooth&Balanced its damn heavy though
  
• Table Saw - Dewalt : whoever came up with this idea for the adjustable fence is a gaddamn hero.
  
• Circular saw - Makita 15amp Magnesium I have the old one which doesn't have the crappy new guard that binds on everything.
  
• Sawzall - MakitaThe Clutch. This thing is awesome compared to every other recip saw I've used, that being all of them.
  
• Cordless Drill and Impact - Makita
  
• Radio - Milwaukee
  
• Guns - Hitachi
  Festool is too expensive for anything but I did spoil myself with a Stilletto TiBoneII 15 Hammer no regrets :)
  

Here you go.

Sawsall

To people saying it's not a jigsaw here's a link to it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW6OEMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-VXZCbQP5SFAE

I can't link on mobile, but there are dildo attachments that you can hook directly (and safely) to a reciprocating saw. I repeat, do NOT just put a dildo on a reciprocating saw blade. The outcome won't be pretty. A cheap saw is about 60 dollars at a pawn shop. Of course, it's difficult to use by yourself, however.

Edit: Link to the adapters I was talking about. Link to the type of saw I was talking about.