(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best power transmission products

It honestly depends on your budget, how much are you willing to spend?

Here is a great list of prep and upgrades you can do to bring success to your prints:

-Get Vibration Dampners: I can not express how much joy these things have brought many users. The make your machine quiet and greatly decrease ringing in your prints since they ABSORB the vibration coming from your stepper motors. You really only need Two of these for the X and Y axis however you can get another two for the Z-axis drives if you plan on doing a lot of z-hopping.

-BUY FILAMENT IN ADVANCE: get some PLA/ABS/PETG or whatever you want to try printing with. The filament you get with the printer for the most part is garbage HOWEVER I recommend dialing in those settings first then throwing on some nice filament, it'll feel soooo nice. Some commonly accepted/appreciated brands are: eSun PLA+, Hatchbox, Solutech and more

-Get a PEI sheet: Seems like you mentioned this in your post but PEI sheets eliminate the use of gluesticks/tape/hairspray and provide excelent adhesion while making it easy to remove the part after it's cool. This things like to be hot though so increase your bed temp a little at first

-Buy New Fans: The stock hotend/power unit fans are Loud, Noisy and Inefficient. I recommend getting 1 new conrol box fan, 1 new hot end fan and 1 new part blower fan.
You will need 1 40mm fan, 1 50mm fan and a Blower fan or another 40/50mm fan depending on if you print a new hot end mount like a fang.

-Tighten every screw on the printer: You would be surprised how many screws initially are lose either from prior testing or such. Also make sure to test your belt tensions on your printer whne you get it. You want everything tight BUT NOT TOO TIGHT. Give it a snug fit then let it be. Also make sure your belts are 'pluckable' like a guitar string but not tought

-Get some bearings: You may want to get a few ball bearings for when you print out a new filament holder, the stock filament holder is terrible

-Buy some fasteners: M3 bolts and nuts are commonly used on the CR-10S having spares or additional fasteners for adding on parts/printed components to your printer is awesome to have on hand

-Replace the Hotend: This can get a bit frustrating but it can be worth it. If you want you can replace the hotend with something like a volcano or an all metal hot end to print at higher temperatures. With this you can also add on autoleveling if you have the correct mount printed

-Octoprint: I am not very familiar with octoprint since I don't use it myself however I know it can run on a CR-10S. If you want look into how to install octoprint on stock firmware, I know it's pretty easy to use a raspberrypi to remote into your printer as well using octoprint.

-Squash Feet: Replacing your stock machine 'feet' with squash balls or squishy gold balls can also help absorb vibrations from your machine to your table or where it is located. This helps a bit with part quality but it's mostly to reduce the noise carried through your furniture.

-Solder on connectors: If you want you can get some pin connectors to make your fans/electronics easy to switch out depending on your material you are printing, maybe you need a strong part fan or maybe you need a weaker one. It is easy to swap out if it's using a 4pin connector.

-Make an Enclosure: What could be nicer for your printer than a stable environment. Making an enclosure for your printer can help if you live in a rough climate area or if you want to reduce the noise as well.

-Get some Handtools: I'm not sure if you have any or not but some great tools to have are a screwdriver, hexwrenches and a soldering iron depending on how much work you want to be doing on your printer.

For convenience I've added some of the parts mentioned via an Amazon link for prices. I'm not saying buy these things exactly they are just a starting point for reference:

Nima Vibration Dampners:https://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Rubber-Vibration-Dampers-Printer/dp/B073FRZTDX/

40mm Fan (Noctua Brand): https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-FLX-premium-quality-quiet/dp/B072JK9GX6/

Blower Fan (Part Fans):https://www.amazon.com/SoundOriginal-Humidifier-Aromatherapy-Appliances-Replacement/dp/B071WMHNG5/

PEI Sheet/Printer Surface:https://www.amazon.com/CCTREE-Printer-Surface-Creality-300x300mm/dp/B07543KHCT/

Squash Feet: https://www.amazon.com/PrideSports-Practice-Balls-Count-Yellow/dp/B00466W9X0/

M3 Bolts/Nuts:https://www.amazon.com/280Pcs-Grade12-9-Socket-Assortment-Storage/dp/B0742DDLQ1/

Raspberry Pi 3 for Octoprint: https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASPBERRYPI3-MODB-1GB-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92/

Ball Bearings: https://www.amazon.com/625ZZ-Shielded-Groove-Precision-Bearings/dp/B01LWMT95S/

Hope this helps, have fun tinkering!

When I was 12 I bought a toolbox and started filling it with the things I used the most. Ten years later, here's what's in the toolbox I always take with me:

• Paperclips (small & large) - Never underestimate the utility of long, poky things. I keep some on my keychain, as well & use them often.
  
• Leatherman - This gets the most use out of any tool I own. I usually keep it in my backpack.
  
• Handheld blowtorch - Good for lighting candles, inspiring fear.
  
• 2-part, 5-minute epoxy
  
• Marine epoxy - Has the consistency of clay, but hardens even underwater. Can be used to fix cracked or leaking pipes in a pinch.
  
• Duct tape
  
• Hemostats (curved & straight) - A must if you ever work with small things. They can clamp down to hold two things together, freeing a hand up.
  
• Dinky drill - Get one of these. At first I thought it was lame, but having a small, cordless drill around for quickly disassembling things and drilling small holes saves a lot of time & effort.
  
• Zip ties (small, large) - These are light and very strong. They come in handy for random things and work like a charm.
  
• Hacksaw blades - Just keep a few in the toolbox. I use them primarily to make lockpicks out of. Wrap a length of cord around half of one and use it to saw through small pieces of metal in tight places.
  
• Lockpicks - Having a set of lockpicks and knowing how to use them can come in extremely handy. I keep a set in my car and another in my backpack. Read the MIT Guide to get started.
  
• Digital calipers - Nice for measuring small things to a high precision.
  
• Goof off - Good for getting random stains out & removing sticker residue.
  
• Masking tape - I use lots of this.
  
• Electrical tape - I don't use as much of this, but you should have some anyway.
  
• Wire strippers - You can strip wire with a knife, but these save time.
  
• Latex gloves - These are light, low-volume, and very useful for working with messy things like epoxy.
  
• Rubber mallet - This is one of the first things I bought, and though it doesn't get as much use as most of the other tools, I've never regretted buying it.
  
• Sharpie markers - You always need them, and you never have them. Keep some in your toolbox & away from your desk so they don't get ideas from your ballpoint pens & walk away.
  
• Needle & thread - Good for fixing popped buttons and such.
  
• Microfile set (also called Jeweler's files) - These come in extremely handy when working with small things.
  
• eXacto knives - Everyone should have a set of these.
  
• Carpenter's triangle - Very useful for woodworking. This can save you a lot of time if you learn all its uses.
  
• Hand drill - I just picked this up recently, but it's come in really handy for precision-drilling small holes or pilot holes.
  
• Channel locks - These will hold you off until you have the space & money to buy a full wrench and socket set.
  
  There's a few other things that don't fit in my tool box but I feel should be mentioned:
  
  
• A good, 1/2" CORDED drill - Don't skimp here. Cordless drills have rechargeable batteries that always wear out and need to be replaced. Use the dinky drill for those kinds of jobs. If you buy a nice corded drill & clean it occasionally, you may never have to buy another one again.
  
• Rope - I keep a good length of rope in my car & have used it many times.
  
• Steel coat hangers - These are terrible for hanging clothes, but they can be used to make all sorts of things.
  
• Dremel tool - You can do anything with a dremel tool and enough cutoff wheels.
  
• A hand saw - You can cut pieces of wood pretty precisely with a good hand saw & a little practice, and it's much more compact than the equivalent power tool.
  
• Towel - No explanation needed.
  
  Anyway, these are the things I've taken off to college with me, and they work for 98% of all the jobs I've needed to do over the past four years. Anyway, hope this helps, and good luck to you.
  
  Edit: The links are to things I have bought, not necessarily the best or cheapest example of each item.
  

I have a Maker select. It's my first and only 3D printer so my review compared to others is unreliable.

Here's a copy/paste of a review I did on it about a month ago. It's long but detailed with links:

I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.

I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.

When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.

THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.

My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1

So, now to answer your question...

> How do you like your Maker Select?

I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.


As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:

• IKEA enclosure - $115
  
• LEDs for Inside enclosure - $25
  
• MK-9/10 Extruder Gear - $9
  
• Micro Swiss All Metal hot End - $50
  
• Micro Swiss Lever - $18 (Totally not necessary, but Micro Swiss's support was AMAZING to deal with, and I wanted to support them so I purchased this as well.
  
• Misc. M3 and M4 Screws, etc. - ~$25 in total between Amazon Orders and Lowe's for things needed for mods.
  
• New 40mm fan because I broke the blade on the one I had. There are cheaper ones than this. - $14
  
• 50mm blower fan - $8
  
  So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:
  
  DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.
  
  z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.
  
  Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.
  
  
• Lowe's glass - $4 for 2 pieces of 7.9"x7.9" glass
  
• Borosilicate Glass - $12 - Amazing adheasing with PLA and ABS. Don't use it right now, though because I'm printing in PETG and I read on here that PETG eats borosilicate glass.
  
• Lithium Grease - $7. When I changed my bearing blocks, I had issues with sticking so I purchased some of this to help smoothing out the bearing movement on the polished rods.
  
• 3D print removal tool - $5. Printer comes with a larger scraper, but I needed something a bit more fine (thin) and this thing is perfect.
  
• Spare bearings - $13 because I broke one of them when swapping to 3d Printed bearing blocks.
  
• Digital Calipers - $18
  
  That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
  
  

Yes, electronics can cost a lot, and many of the telescope manufacturers make things, that when I look at them belong in the 1990s or 2000s, in terms of the way they work, and honestly could have been $400. It's basically the TI calcuator system: https://xkcd.com/768/

People have replaced those control systems, using technology (especially things like improved stepper control) which has come about for various reasons, like 3D printers, and simply faster microcontrollers.

Here's one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCBgmgc8qiA conversion (I suspect based on that it was using one of the faster controllers, but mine can do fine with an Arduino Mega + Ramps (the cheap controller))

• SVP $300 New
  
• RAMPS kit: (https://www.amazon.com/Eiechip-CNC-3D-Printer-Kit/dp/B07BKVPZ71) $27 (Not the best drivers, but this can be upgraded if you want later probably also want a PPS source, but it can be dealt without. As can the board.)
  
• Motors (Honestly cheaper, but at 0.9 degrees these are a bit better than the normal 1.8 degrees) https://www.amazon.com/0-9deg-Stepper-Bipolar-42x42x39mm-4-wires/dp/B00W98OYE4 2x$20
  
• Pulley for mount (60 tooth) https://www.amazon.com/Timing-Pulleys-Aluminum-Printer-Wrench/dp/B07QH1ZJ9L $8 (2x)
  
• Pulley for motor (16 tooth) https://www.amazon.com/Anet-Timing-Pulley-Aluminum-Printer/dp/B07D294B2T/ $8
  
• Belts https://www.amazon.com/132-2GT-6-Timing-Belt-Closed-Loop/dp/B014QI4PU2/ $12 (I think those are what are needed, I'd have to look again to make sure. I use 110s, but have 20 tooth 1:1, as I use geared steppers, with upsides and downsides.)
  
• Bracket (3D printed) or something made: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2278288
  
• M6 screws and 2 nuts (<$5 at local store)
  
• Onstep https://groups.io/g/onstep/wiki/home
  
  So At 408 + a bracket (Easy and simple 3D print or easy to DIY, look at the OnStep Showcase for a number of them.)
  
  Along with a 1/4-20 screw and a dovetail (Oh look: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2039785) , and you've got all of the functionality of a one of the Star Adventurers, along with the ability to mount pretty much any telescope up to 8" with a vixen dovetail.
  
  Plus, unlike from what I can tell of almost all commercial ones, they don't seem to compensate for misalignment when tracking. (Ie, they only move RA, not DEC, unless guiding.) Here are some examples of unguided long exposures with dual axis compensation. (Also, He doesn't usually process them, these are per other discussions straight off the camera) https://www.flickr.com/photos/11381732@N08/albums/72157683118306836
  
  Though that uses PEC (Periodic error correction, because worm gears often have high/low spots, so it can be corrected by basically guiding a few times and storing the corrections, which are then replayed). If you want that stored, which isn't included on what I mentioned above, but can be added for the cost of a magnet or two and a hall sensor ( https://www.amazon.com/WINGONEER-Effect-KY-003-Magnetic-Arduino/dp/B06XHG9CYN/ $8 and magnet https://www.amazon.com/Personalized-Multi-Use-Whiteboard-Magnetic-Refrigerators/dp/B075PMV2BC/ $8 ) Otherwise you'd have to retrain it each time.
  
  One thing is that the microcontroller and drivers aren't the most advanced, but you can upgrade them if you want. (STM32 about 3x as fast, but it's rarely needed, except for better alignment is about $60, but add two drivers, so call it a net of +$40 extra but that the kit adds wifi ($6 and a bit of wiring to the original) and a hand controller to it. the faster processors ESP32 and Teensy cost more but are something like 14x as fast allowing better alignment. Mind if you use Howard's Sky Planetarium, it won't matter too much, and it'll be able to process on the computer.)
  
  All new, and unless you have space taken up as your main concern the above setup is in pretty much all respects better than that suggested by dan.

The PSU case needs some love, too. It's like Creality shopped around for the loudest fans it could find, and that's what shipped with the Ender. Anyway, these two things make the PSU much better: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3384875 WellFan Noctua 60x25 remix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967389 WellFan PSU case mod and for fun https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987473 cause, well, just cause (60mm fan guard) oh, and the fan: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQMESS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heyyyyy, you've added a buck converter and have 12v now, time to change the main board fan! It's a noisy bugger too! It ends up being the same fan as what comes on the factory hotend cooler. Annoyinggggggggggg. Like a mosquito in my ear!!! https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Noctua 40x10mm fans are bolt in replacements for both of those, if you don't want to change the hotend cooler. I could have used a 40x10 on the Hero Me cooler I used - but the 40x20 looks cooler.

This is the LED strip lighting I used, it was expensive though, and I'm sure you could find much less expensive alternatives. https://www.rpelectronics.com/55-7160w-0-led-strip-outdoor-ip65-white-1m.html (white and red! z-rail and top rail!)

I printed a handle, and really like it, but it won't work without some love. Instead of modifying the 3d model I'm probably just gonna heatgun it into the shape I need it to be. Currently, it hits the Y-axis rail. It's here, if you wanna take a stab at it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3313306

The Z-axis stepper is by far the loudest - I'm going to try to see if I can make a damper work, like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07CL356J5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A28ZWXW3ZSVNZU&psc=1 ** disclaimer note: I haven't done this yet. I haven't received the dampers.

I printed a zillion links from this thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060 but didn't like the result after putting it all together. It motivated me to try and do something for cable management, though. I DID end up using a bunch of the start and end mounts, though, and cut off the link nubs. They worked super great for cable management.

I'm still not 100% happy with the cabling - I'm ordering these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074GZFYM1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A23BY812APN9IU&psc=1 and will be trimming/cutting/hiding/wrapping them so it looks nicer. Don't get me wrong, it works fine the way it is, but I don't like that flat ribbon cable stuff. It's too... ugly. It's either these cables or I'm going to build my own, which I like doing anyway. This will be soon. I don't think it'll look much different, but I think individually wrapped cables running to the stepper motors would look cooler. More space-ship-ie.

There's probably more. For this list, there's another list like it of failed/ugly/discarded parts - it took some trial and error for sure. It's worth it though. I've actually printed more stuff for my printer than I have for projects I'm working on. 3d printing is so funny that way!

If you have questions, I'm happy to help :) I have pictures of all this if you need them. I haven't figured out imgur, but will add photos to this album as time goes on: https://photos.app.goo.gl/AEXNqvTXE5ZZhnhi8.

-Tunder

PS. Man this is a really big post. I didn't realize I did so many things. Rabbit hole, this thing is.

Sounds like a cool project, probably more suited to the hobby CNC subreddit: /r/hobbycnc , but I'm still happy to throw in my 2 cents here.

Instead of building up trucks with threaded rod / bearings / nuts, and using an aluminum tube for your linear motion, I would highly recommend using off the shelf linear bearings and shafting. The proliferation of the hobbyist DIY CNC / 3D Printer segment has flooded the market with cheap linear motion components. It's still going to be a bit more than your proposed solution, but I think it would be worth it - you'll save yourself a lot of frustration and end up with a better performing solution, even using the cheapest off the shelf components. Something like these, for example:

• Linear Bearing
  
• Linear Motion Rail
  
  For the gear rack / spur gear: Do the individual "blocks" the louvers are attached to need to move independently of each other, or can they all move ganged? I'm assuming you need the independent linear motion, but just in case you don't, it would be much cheaper to use one motor to turn a single leadscrew that runs the full length of the machine axially and have a nut on each "block".
  
  Assuming you need the independent linear movement, your use of a gear rack is a good solution. You mentioned wanting to use NEMA17 motors but were unable to locate a gear that would fit on the 5mm shaft. McMaster has brass spur gears with the DP and PA to match your rack with a .1875" bore, however they're brass, not stainless:
  
  
• 7880k31
  
  You'd obviously have to ream the bore to fit a 5mm shaft, but that shouldn't be much of an issue. If you can't live with brass, and you can't find a 32DP 20° spur gear with an appropriate bore elsewhere, you could always turn down a bushing to press fit on the 5mm motor shaft to make the larger bore spur gear work. If you're not paying for your time to make the bushings, the material cost for that is going to be a lot less than the price delta between the NEMA17 and NEMA23 steppers.
  
  Also, if the "blocks" are moving independently of each other, you probably want to put limit switches on them to prevent them from running into each other and trashing your steppers / gears / whatever else.
  
  Lastly, I'd try to avoid using the 2x2 wood stud for that structural component. Structural timber like that is terribly unstable and not dimensionally accurate at all, I can see it causing you issues - take a look at 80/20 aluminum extrusions for those structural components. They're obviously more expensive than wood, but you can find good deals on eBay (the actual manufacturer of 80/20 even has an eBay store where they sell surplus / off cuts / scratch & dent / etc.: 8020-Inc-Garage-Sale)
  
  Anyway, hope some of that is helpful. Like I said, looks like a cool project, and I think it's certainly achievable, even without taking any of my suggestions on board. Oh, and BTW - nice looking rendering you made there!

I'm pretty new to this too, I bought my Ender 3 Pro around the same time as you. Quiet printing is pretty high on my list as well as being able to print high-temp exotic filaments in the long term while maintaining reliability.

First upgrades I purchased were stiffer bed springs so I would be less likely to throw the bed out of level while removing prints or working around the printer and Capricorn XS tube since it has a more consistent internal diameter, fits closer to the filament, and can work with slightly higher temps. I also picked up a pack of bowden couplers recently as I noticed the end nearest the extruder is sliding past the coupler jaws on de/retraction; don't worry about that unless it's an issue for you. That's about $30 alone since I don't have a supply shop locally and have to order those parts in bulk. I had a Pi 3B laying around unused and flashed Octoprint onto it. Highly recommended. I have a replacement Noctua hotend fan, buck converters, and 5015 blower on order to quiet the fan noise; about $32. Just replaced the Meanwell psu fan with a 60x25mm Noctua I had lying around (Note: there may be better options in the 92-120mm range to replace part of the PSU housing, but that's what I had laying around). Next upgrade coming is the SKR Mini E3 with TMC 2209 drivers ($28) to eliminate almost all of the stepper noise. Also looking into a replacement for the control board fan and some vibration isolating feet for the frame. As far as higher temp printing I haven't made a lot of progress aside from buying a titanium all-metal heat brake ($11) winch I have yet to install or inspect, and looking into enclosure and electronics relocation avenues.

Either way the mods I purchased came in at around $100 US which should quiet the printer and help with reliability. Also looking into picking up a good M3-M4 bolt kit if any exist in the US.

Here are some links to the things I picked up and will, which may be helpful if you're in the US. Mostly from Amazon.

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability | 8mm x 20mm yellow springs | Link | $6.98
Reliability | Capricorn XS Tubing | Link | $11.49
Reliability | PC4-M6 / PC4-M10 Pneumatic Bowden Fittings | Link | $11.99
Silence | Noctua 40mm x 10mm 3-pin fan | Link | $13.95
Silence/Various | LM2596 Adjustable Buck Converters | Link | $10.95
Silence | 24v 5015 Radial Ball Bearing Fans | Link | $7.19
Silence/Various | SKR Mini E3 w/ TMC 2209 drivers | Link | $28.81
High Temp | Titanium All-Metal Heat Brake | Link | $11.52
TOTAL: $102.88 US + Tax

Parts already purchased/ bought with printer

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability/High Temp | OEM Ender 3 Glass Bed | Link | $20
Reliability | Feeler Guage Set | Link | $5
Reliability | 608zz Bearings, using with this(My Remix), this, and this, though I like this design a bit better | Link | $5.98
QoL Improvement | Raspberry Pi 3B w/ Octoprint | Link | $34.46
Silence | Noctua 60mm x 25mm 3-pin fan, goes with this mod | Link | $14.95
TOTAL: $80.39 US + Tax

Future planned upgrades

• Bl Touch (Note: if you have a Pi you don't need a separate ISP to flash a bootloader to the stock Melzi control board)
  
  
• Extruder | Zesty Nimble, Bondtech BMG, or SeeMeCNC EZR
  
  
• Cooling Duct | Either Smooth Fang or Hero Me Gen 3 in PETG/ABS
  
  
• Direct Drive | Kit or Printed (this, this, or this)
  
  
• Electronics relocation enclosure and wiring (need to research this more)
  
  
• Vibration Isolation Feet with Yellow Dot Squash Balls
  
  
• Linear rails (maybe)

Yeah, but people use a lot of different materials to do so. One of the best or most popular ones I think is Sorbothane. You can get individual sheets of it on Amazon. You just have to cut it to fit the shape of your case.

I bought a pencil style tension gauge but I'm not sure if it's accurate, or if the specs I found were really off but I tried to tension to those specs and it seemed unreasonably tight so I just ignored it. For the most part I've been pulling it as tight as I can around the drive pulley in the back and the idler pulley at the front, clamping them down then slipping the belt over the idler bearing just in front of the drive pulley. That seems to be working well enough for me and the prints I've shown were printed using that method. Not ideal, but it allowed me to focus on other issues. I would like to do it properly proper though, just not sure if my gauge is good and if so, what specs are needed.


The X belt lasted considerably longer and I suspect it was only due to my custom idler bearings wearing out and the walls breaking free since I had to make them from nylon which was the only thing I had available. I had to use washers to trap the belt and they didn't spin with the bearing so I'm guessing that's why they failed at all. I'm going to be making new idler bearings from delrin once I get a proper mini lathe. I tried using a Sinwise 6 in 1 machine but they are such garbage and are pretty useless as a lathe since the chuck wobbles lol I might still opt to go overkill on the X belt though since it would be more expensive to replace due to it's generous length, but I'll go with your recommendation if you think it would be wise to do otherwise.


Belt Failure

Y Belt Path

X Belt Path shortened for illustraion purposes, drive gear on right side of image, others are idlers

Belt Tensioner


So after weighing every part on the gantry and X carriage (steppers, extrusions, plates, bolts, nuts, washers, etc.), the weights are as follows:

gantry alone - 14.7 lbs

X carriage - 3.9 lbs

All - 18.5 lbs


I didn't factor the weight of the belts or pulleys in but I'm sure it won't be a problem just add a pound or so on the top.

I learned about this stuff from another user. You may wanna buy something thicker but it works great. I love the case btw. Isolate It!: Sorbothane Acoustic & Vibration Damping Film 70 Duro (0.10 x 6 x 12in) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084EXWP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XWxEzb1JMVN91

Yes, I have one. Here's my post (with pics): https://redd.it/4ne1f9

The PCB & plate rest on a lip in the bottom half of the case. I was not happy when I got it assembled because there was a considerable amount of flex.

/u/axtran suggested that I use I sheet of Sorbothane between the PCB and the case. It worked great and the keyboard feels rock solid.

For the cable, I used a short DIY USB cable from 1UP Keyboards (/u/skiwithpete). I used cable ties to secure it to the PCB in a couple of places. The cable sticks out of the back of the keyboard for a couple of feet and I plug it into an USB extension cable.

I have vintage MX blacks in my Phantom and it's my favorite keyboard in my collection.

These are some of the best types of mounts for noisy quads- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F7E9C1W/

I have used them on a few 6500mpus with untunable twitches and they always solved the issue.

Edit: and I agree with the 6500 statement. I had a few that worked awesome. Although they had a higher noise floor they are definitely and improved more precise version of their predecessor the 6000mpu. It's too bad they got such a bad rap.

If you're going to replace the rods, you should really consider upgrading straight to lead screws. I replaced the m5 rods on my Prusa i3v with 8mm leadscrews and saw a pretty noticable increase in print quality. They'll help make your printer more rigid and have less backlash, giving smoother and more consistent print faces.

You can get relatively cheap ones off of amazon that will be a serious upgrade over threaded rods: https://www.amazon.com/Drillpro-400mm-Lead-Screw-Printer/dp/B017AR5QBS

Hi I am also a new guy with the Ender3. I think the first thing you should get at the same time as the printer is Filament, because you will only be able to print one or two very little things with the filament provided with the printer.

Then, leveling or 'traming' of the bed is the most critical thing to achieve. After some research here and at other places the general advice is to change the stock springs under the bed get those yellow ones from amazon or other places. The problem with the original ones is that you have to level you bed almost at each print. But the best thing I did to improve the bed leveling issue, is to change the bed surface for a flexible magnetic build surface.

For the rest you will find out by yourself as you gain experience working with your printer. One other thing I did is to change the position of the filament wheel to put it on the side of the printer so that the filament enters more directly in the extruder reducing the angle of penetration to almost 0. For this just download this file from Thingiverse. I will try to get you the link soon.

Hope this will help for a starter.

Honestly I should just buy a 20 pack of these and then print a frame that holds them all in a circle so the hose can have a perfectly smooth track to go through

I've used these off Amazon. They're the best deal I could find: 450lbs for $8. I think I might have gotten them for $5 about a year ago, so shop around.

Mine printed fine for a couple months until I got lines like those.... I bought a new lead screw on amazon for about $10 and it’s been printing fine ever since.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017AR5QBS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is the one I bought.

the ultimate solution is to upgrade to linear railings like these

​

Here's a video of mine in action

The rail systems are over $50, typically.

Get some decent bearings - I used these @ $10 for 30 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBD6X4

For those bearings a 5/16" steel rod (about $2/ft, purchased at Lowe's) fits in nicely. Mount two of those bearings on the rod and sandwich it between two pieces of wood (or steel if you desire) and it'll ride atop a 3/4" wood rail smooth as butter. Put as many of these as you want along the top of your barn door and for about 1/10th of the cost you have the same thing.

I need to finish up and post photos of the system I did, it's just too expensive to buy a few pieces of metal.

Are you happy with the pulley/rope? I've been putting it off for a while, too, and it's the next thing I want to add. I'm planning on using this pulley, rated for 650lbs, even though it expressly says to not use it for athletic equipment.

linear rails can be had reasonably enough. They offer superior accuracy and stability, and if installed properly, last a long long time.

Amazon has a new brand that hasn't got many reviews yet but man that price. been watching them to see how it plays out.

Thanks, I used regular skate bearings. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C6FL8TW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You may love him but he does not reciprocate the feeling.

I've got multiple Lux (V1s) that I use soft mounted, using these types of stand-offs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F7E9C1W

I doubt there will ever be a software fix for the lux v1 noise issues since the root issue is a hardware deficiency, though in my experience the board still flies great (YMMV depending upon motors, frame, how your fc is mounted, and tons of other factors).

I bought these lead screws. Be careful because they will not fit by default. You will have to drill/dremel out the existing z-axis mounts where the original threaded rod brass nuts were to make these fit. These take M-4 screws while the old ones took M-3 so the holes will need to be enlarged on the carriage. It took about a couple of hours to mount it correctly. It seemed that everything the Geeetech came with was too small by a couple of mm. The 8mm spring couplers were not exactly 8mm so I had to purchase new 8mm spring couplers to get the new lead screws to mount to the z-axis steppers. You will also have to cut the rods shorter because these were 400mm. I also had to tap the M4 threads into the mounting nuts for these. this might not be required as yours might come tapped but I would recommend buying an M4 tap or a set of metric taps. These were a pain in the ass to install but they produced really top quality prints, anything better than I've seen come from my printer. I would say it's worth the bit of engineering to get them to fit. I mean that's what this hobby is about right?

I've used a mixture of Silverstone silencing foam, and 0.125" Sorbothane (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B019GBKKPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to fill mine, works very well.

You can even stick the sorbo to the underside of the plate in various places, in between the PCB and plate, to dampen and noise travelling though it.

Watch the extruder gear. If the sound is when it turns backwards, that's the retraction sound. Install a NEMA 17 stepper motor sound damper on the extruder motor. Might as well do the x,y at the same time. Only do z motors of you do a lot of z hopping on retraction

(5pack) NEMA 17 Steel & Rubber Stepper Motor Vibration Damper for CNC 3D Printer https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07CL356J5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zehZCbXWMFNAY

This is what I use (for the middle bearing):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKBUR1Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(for the outside bearings)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBD6X4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I timed my spin to 2mins 20 seconds. Not too bad

depending on the keyboard you can fill it with foam or get sorbothane dampening mats like this. there are examples on youtube how it affects the sound of the kb. the biggest factor is the switch tough.
edit; just saw your flair. if this is about your realforce is the louder sound when you let go of a key?

Bought this belt deflection gage because I had a loose belt in my car.

As for the holidays, I just moved on my own, so I'm asking my family for the one glaring missing piece of my tool kit, a nice combo wrench set.

Amazon, we got a pack of 30 for ~$12

I think it was these: 30 Bearing 608ZZ 8x22x7 Shielded Greased Miniature Ball Bearings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BBD6X4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OykNybTZ859CZ

I got mine from Amazon by typing ender 3 springs. Personally I got this

Here you go, it was for 14$ but still, cheap. link

https://amzn.com/B00OZJMX1Q

Or buy one of these

This is what I used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084EXWP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ACME thread leadscrew