Reddit mentions: The best t-nuts

Sure its actually really simple if you have access to some power tools.

1. Measure out your handle. I used the dimensions 2 in x 1.5 in x 7 in. If you can rip your 2x4 and have all sharp edges it is a plus. cause it makes it easier to cut imo
   
   
2. Measure out your center hole. I used a rectangle with the dimensions 1 in x 2 in
   It is 1/2 in from the side and 1 in from the top. Id use a scroll saw if you have it but a jigsaw will work. Start by drilling out a few holes in your soon to be center hole this will give you a place to start your saw without having to cut from the outside.
   Note: if using a jigsaw you should mark out your hole and cut from on both sides of the handle as a jigsaw may not cut as straight through as you'd like.
   
   
3. Drill a hole in the top. Use a drill press (recommended) or hand drill and drill down from the top of your handle you should go through the center hole you just made and about 3/4 in down into the other side of the handle. From the top of the tool to the bottom of the hole it should be about 3 3/4 inches in.
   
   
4. If you have a bolt already that long GREAT. But if not just cut it with a hack saw and file the ends to make it easier to put on nuts. I used a bolt with 1/4 in diameter.
   
5. for the next step you will need 4 1/4 in inner 1 in outer dia. washers and 2 1/4 in nuts. It goes bolt washer handle washer nut washer washer nut. Tighten the first nut until tight to the top. the other is what tightens your blade sticks down.
   Note: You can get a bit fancier and replace the second washer and first nut with one of these
   
   
6. lay out your blade sticks. Mine are 1 in x 1/4 in x 7 in. Make 2.
   Drill a hole for another bolt at one end of both sticks in the same place(right side of pic). On the other end drill a pilot hole for the 2 screws that will hold the blade in place( left side of pic. make sure its big enough that the screws can go in with very little effort mine were about an inch long. At just under an inch from the end cut a blade slot slightly past your pilots (without the screws in). Mark your inches on your sticks
   
   
7. on the other side insert smaller bolt washer 1st blade stick, a soft rubber o-ring, 2nd blade stick, washer, then nut.
   
   
8. you insert the sticks between the 3rd and 4th washer in the handle with the center bolt between the two blade sticks. tighten the last center nut to secure sticks
   
   
9. At this point with a blade inserted it should be functional but if it pleases you sand/cut down the handle to fit more comfortably in your hand i took 1/2 in from the 2 in width on both sides and sanded the piece smooth rounding out the sharp corners
   
   As i said i made this with stuff laying around so if you buy more specialized hardware you could definitely improve on my tool. It might also be beneficial to use a hardwood on you blade sticks. I haven't used mine much yet so it is possible they could split where the blade is mounted. if you know a way to put in the blade notch without cutting from the outside please share!!

You can get vinyl wrap from a number of locations online, often used for automotive panels. I had leftovers from a furniture project that used a black wood grain vinyl wrap for drawer fronts. Amazon link below. I just used that because it was handy. It worked great, but if I did it again, I might search for a faux carbon fiber print, which looks really cool for ... anything.

I just cut a 1/2" plywood sheet to 24" x 24". Drilled and countersunk the mounting holes for the wall studs, and drilled holes for 1/4-20 threaded inserts for the VESA mounting plate. Big wood screws probably would have worked too, but the threaded inserts seemed like a good idea. Then I sanded the panel, vacuumed it thoroughly to get the dust off, then applied the vinyl wrap, which is just a big sticker. You never want to completely remove the peel away backing from the vinyl sheet before applying it. It is too sticky and easily ruined if it sticks to itself or you try to peel it off of another surface. Peel the backing sheet about 4", stick it to one end of the panel surface, then slowly and carefully rub the sheet flat across the panel while pulling the backing sheet away progressively. You only get one chance to apply it correctly. Trying to pull it off of the panel will likely tear up the plywood. Then use an Xacto knife to trim any excess, and wrap the ends like a present. Finally, mount it to the wall with long drywall screws, attached the VESA plate, and hang the chassis.

• Vinyl sheet that I used - Anything will work
  
  
• Threaded inserts
  
  
• 1/4-20 x 1/2" Truss Head Screws
  
  
• VESA Mounting Plate
  
  
• Black Cable Mounts - Must be screwed to panel or will eventually pull the vinyl sheet away from the panel from the weight of the cables.
  
  
• Slim USB DVD Drive - Sits on top of the power supply.
  
  I taped the DVD drive to the power supply with this, which is thick, super strong, and yet removable without shreading or leaving any gunk or glue behind. That tape also works fantastically for mounting LED strips, the best that I have tried so far. It's rubbery and doesn't feel super sticky and can be pulled off fairly easily - at first. After about a minute, it bonds really well to any surface, then takes a lot of effort to pull up again. Great stuff !!
  
  

I've been working on this table project for a little while now, and now just need to fasten the legs to the table tops. One issue that that these raw oak slabs were never planed more than the rough cut from the tree, so their fairly uneven, and even bow a little (don't think it shows in the pictures, though). For that reason, I need a way to level the legs so that the tables don't rock once their finished. Shimming the plates with washers should be easy enough to get the table level, but I'll need machined threads to run the fasteners into and out of (and then into and out of again) so that they'll still hold once it's all said and done. I've looked at a few different options for this problem, but aren't convinced any of them are ideal. T-nuts would work, but I think they might pull out since they won't be held in from the top of the table surface (not interested in that industrial look). These threaded inserts and these similar ones would seem to do the trick, but the reviews raise questions about the strength of the material in dealing with hardwood, as well as problems with the material stripping while trying to place them. Anyone have any suggestions/advice?

TLDR: Looking for fastener solutions to affix table legs to the underside of an oak slab that will allow adjusting to level the table.

based on the url I'm betting he was referring to these.

One of the other posts recommended something like this which would also be a good choice.

The strongest would be some large, pronged T-nuts with bolts from the top. If you glue in the T-nuts to the bottom of the platform you would be able to detach and reattach the cage.

Like these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBRKYHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.rV-AbMZA33DE

If your bolts are too long you can add any number of washers to take up space.

The easiest thing you could do is lean the headboard against the wall, then push the bed up to it. I've lived with that solution a few times.

For extra credit, stick some felt pads on the top corners of the headboard so it doesn't bang against the wall or abrade the plaster. (That also helps if the headboard is solidly attached to the bed.)

If you do want to bolt them together, I suggest you assemble the two pieces, set them together, than use the holes in the headboard as a guide to drill matching holes in the bed frame. I'd use machine screws with nuts and fender washers -- those distribute the load well so the screws won't pull out. In the US, use 1/4-20 screws; in the metric world, use M6.

If there's not enough clearance for the drawers inside the bed, you can use T-nuts like these instead of hex nuts. And use shorter screws.

Dangerous. There's definitely a LOT of stuff in that wall, and unless you know the routing of the water supply pipes, vents and electrical, pretty much anywhere you drive a properly sized long screw or lag bolt into a stud on the other side could hit something you do not want to hit.

One way to approach it is this.

• Make a plywood mounting plate to attach to the wall.
  
• Install "T" Nuts (these http://www.amazon.com/10-24-T-Nuts-50-Pcs/dp/B0002ZPEM2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418418809&sr=8-2&keywords=T-Nuts) where you need for the TV Mount.
  
• Bolt the TV Mount to the plywood
  
• Screw the TV Mount & Plywood assembly to the wall using many 1 5/8" construction screws.
  
  First, in the room where you want the TV, confirm the locations of the wall studs - use an ultrasonic stud finder, they work well.
  
  Then, get a piece of nice 1/2" birch or similar plywood that is wide enough to cover 3 studs and is a little less tall than your TV set. You're going to mount the plywood to the wall, then the TV to the plywood. Cut it to size, sand the edges, make it nice. You probably will want to paint nice it if it's visible - if not, paint it black and it will look like part of the TV mount.
  
  Next, lay out your TV mount on the plywood. Make sure it's lined up and square and then and drill holes in the plywood as needed by the TV mount. For the 1/4-20 T-Nut, you drill a 5/16" hole. Attach the TV mount to the plywood with 1/4" hex-head bolts or screws.
  
  Then, carefully and with a level, use a power drill with an appropriate tip to screw the plywood into the studs using 1 5/8" coarse thread construction screws. Space the screws every 4" vertically - you don't want this ripping out of the wall.
  
  
  

I've found that pronged t-nuts work very well for mounting joysticks from the bottom for a cleaner look. Once mounted, you can hid the t-nuts with wood filler and stain. https://smile.amazon.com/T-Nuts-18-8-Stainless-Steel-4-Prong/dp/B00FASQZVA?sa-no-redirect=1

Wood beads are easy to find. As for the missing cap, I'd replace all 4 with something new that still fits the motif. Trying to make 1 to match the other 3 will be more expensive.

Cut a larger wooden ball in half. Find a Tee Nut to match the threading on the rods, drill a hole to accept the Tee Nut, apply some epoxy to the inside of the hole, gently hammer on the Tee Nut, allow it to dry, then thread it on.

T-nuts are also a lot easier than inserts. You just drill a 5/16 hole and press-fit them in. 100 of them should probably cover your needs.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H61YF2

They make adjustable table feet with felt bottoms. I highly recommend using them for this. You won't even see them (unless you lay on the floor a lot).

These plus [these] (http://www.amazon.com/3-8-16-Screw-On-Teenuts/dp/B001DT5KNY/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_2_0)

The "correct" answer is use a T-nut or insert nut. Something like this. The less correct but no less true answer is use whatever works.

CHEP has a side mount adapter than doesn't need any special hardware - just the screws that come with the printer.

My only complaint about his side mount design is that it could interfere with the most common style cable chain. But it will work until you can get better screws.

Speaking of which, if this is someone's first printer, they should pick up a package of T-nuts. They're super handy for mounting things on the 2020 extrusion that printers tend to be made from.

And a little assortment of M4 screws to go with it is helpful too, although you can find similar screws at most decent hardware stores.

m4 tnuts better deal Also whenever you remove a screw you should replace it with a better one because they round out easy
m3,m4,m5 screws also to replace the shitty screws that come on the printer

I got t-bolts to put in my slots, and then use nylock nuts to connect to them. So no rattle free. Nice thing about T-bolts is you can put them in at any time, they don’t have to go in the end like nuts do.

Bolts like this: PZRT 10pcs M6 x 12mm Hammer Head Bolt T Screw,10pcs M6 Hexagon Flange Nuts Set, Carbon Steel Nickel Plated for 3030 Series Standard 8mm T-Slot Aluminum Profile https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CYZRTCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D68XCbP0S3QH3

But I bought them cheap via Alibaba.com from China. And then regular stainless nuts with nylon lock. This means only two pieces for each fastening point, rather than needing a locking washer... and also I can add anything anywhere I want as the bolt head goes in then locks in the slot when tightened down.

Amazon
100Pcs 2020 Series M5 T-Nuts Carbon Steel Nickel-Plated Half Round Roll in Sliding T Slot Nut https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSFB7BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4S8TDbZ6A0XAD

If you buy regular climbing holds, the plywood you mount them on will need some separation for the end of the bolts to stick out.

Therefore, I'd say screw 2x4s into studs. Take a piece of 3/4" plywood and mount t-nuts into it (here). Screw that into the 2x4s. That gives you separation from the wall, letting the bolts screw in enough. Plus you get the added benefit that your forearms won't hit the door frame. I've gotten some really annoying bruises like that.

I have a piece of mdf with holes drilled in it and T-nuts on the back side.
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-180297-Pronged-100-Pack/dp/B000H61YF2/ref=sr_1_1/180-7989447-8305100?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1468022702&sr=1-1

I printed a bunch of hold downs on my printer and use 1/4 20 bolts to hold my part.

https://www.amazon.com/ZRM-Pronged-Furniture-Assorted-Four-Pronged/dp/B07SXGYSR2

I would also recommend getting some nuts designed for aluminum profiles. The square nuts that come with it are a pain like everyone is saying. Something like these: M3 T Nut for 2020 Aluminum Profile. Most of the assembly screws are M3, M4, and M5. The ones used on the base are M4 and that is the hardest part. I think the ones on the aluminum rails are M3.

Hm my memory may be wrong.

Here's what I got:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCDG2QO

They're basically these things called T-Nuts

BUT I don't know the exact size. It should be in the manual which you can download from their website, 6mm rings a bell for some reason.

Worst case, you can buy standard hex nuts, slide that in and tighten. It's fiddly because you're relying on friction unless you get the diameter just right, but I've had to do that on 3d printer builds in the past, so it does work.

T-nuts I used threaded inserts are first but it caused the MDF to bow out around where the threaded insert were, obviously bad for a level table.

you will need to cut recessed circled so the part with the prongs sit flush to the under side so they don't hit the frame.

T-tracks were too expensive for how many I wanted.

I use a separate sheet of MDF that I screwed into the original waste board so it's easy to replace and I don't have to mess with re-calibrating the frame every time.