(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best utility knives

It all depends on what type of builder/crafter you want to get into. Buying all the "machines" and tools for someone that would be a foamsmith but you're really a needlework kind of person makes it a potential waste of money and time (and vice versa).

IF you want to get into an overall crafting/building in general, here are the tools and materials I've gathered for my workshop:

I'm gonna put the word **Optional** for the items that are not completely necessary for first time builders, but definitely worth while down the road.

• Breakaway blades - You can get a pack and break away the blade once it dulls or no longer sharpens.
  
• Rotary cutting wheel - for quick fabric cuts https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-195210-1001-Comfort-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B000B7M8WU/
  
• Kershaw Sharpening stone - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WALUV6/
  
• Dremel (or rotary tool) - I've seen these go for as low as $30 for one that has 2 speeds. Since it's mostly for costuming, the 2 speeds is plenty.
  
• Besides the Dremel, if you can, pick up a Belt Sander **Optional** from Harbor Frieght (particularly when it goes on sale and they issue a 20% coupon) I got mine for around $50 and it is a time saver!
  
• Heat gun, I picked one up from Harbor Freight and it was under $10 at the time. It's still going strong and I have had no issues.
  
• Wood Burning Tool **Optional** - This will help you add some great details on the foam. There is a good starter kit also that contains a bunch of nibs, including a soldering nib, as well as a hot knife attachment. The hot knife will cut through foam like butter. One note though, if you don't plan on getting a separate dedicated hot knife, use the one that comes w/ the kit for the finer cuts. The wood burner is a very versatile tool!
  
• For the glue. I would suggest Barge Contact cement or DAP Weldwood. This is what I use and it's proven to be a great option. Hot glue is still very helpful and can be used for quick fixes or adding additional bond. My only reason for not using hot glue for foam is that it takes time to cure and you have to hold it in place. Also, sometimes it creates messy seams.
  
• Kwik Seal paintable caulk or flexible spackle - to cover up the seams you can use either of these. Difference between the two, 1) the caulk needs to be smoothed out before it dries, you can use water. 2) the spackle can be sanded after it dries if you don't apply it smooth the first time.
  
• On the topic of concealing seams or general sculpting, you should look into Foam Clay. It is very malleable and once cured overnight, it's basically shaped foam.
  
• Mod Podge or Flexible Clear Coat spray **Optional** - To coat the finished and painted product, you will want to use something that will protect it and also be flexible. Unless, you want it to be very rigid, you can use Epsilon Pro to coat it, but I can't guarantee that it won't crack. Especially areas that will need some flex. I say this is optional because some crafters don't do clear coating.
  
• Eye Protection & Mask - you don't want fine bits of foam flying into your eyes or lungs. Make sure you get eye pro and a good fine-filter respirator.
  
• Sewing machine - I'm not a needlework expert, but having one is great for sewing straps, hook & loop, minor clothing, etc... Obviously if this is more your expertise, get one that you know you'll love and have great use of.
  
• Cutting Mat - Useful for both the foamsmith and the needlework crafters. I've used both the Fiskars and the US Art Supply brands. Personally the US Art Supply one is way better IMO. It holds up to more cuts and abuse.
  
  Here are some helpful options for your search for EVA foam. Hopefully one of the stores I list here will be some-what local for you. Home Depot, Lowes, 5 Below, BJ's, Costco, Walmart, & Harbor Freight all carry the EVA (floor mat) foam. I have personally purchased and used foam from all of these locations.
  
  
• Your standard craft foam (from craft stores like JoAnne's or Michaels) will be anywhere between 2mm - 6mm. These are great for accent pieces or adding fine details. Keep in mind anything under 8mm will need some sort of rigid structure in order to maintain a good shape for armor. (like cardboard or something) FYI - Joanne's now carries the Yaya Han branded EVA foam mats in various thicknesses.
  
• Harbor Freight has 4 (24"x24") tiles for $8.99 and sometimes have an additional 20% off coupon circulating around. The back of their EVA foam is a standard heat treated texture. They also carry a 72" long (8mm) foam roll with a heat treated diamond patterned back for $9.99.
  
• At BJ's & Costco, I've bought some from these places as well, they carry 8 (24"x24") tiles for $9.89. But people have complained of its quality. (I personally have never had any notable issues with them.) The back of their EVA foam is generally heat treated usually w/ a diamond pattern.
  
• Home Depot & Lowes carries the 4 pack (25"x25") anywhere between $20 - $25. The back of their EVA foam is a standard heat treated texture. Though these seem fine, they are more expensive and are just like the ones at Harbor Freight.Walmart carries a 12 pack (24"x24") for around $18 - $20. The back of their EVA foam is the typical heat treated texture.
  
• 5 Below carries single tiles (no packs) (multiple colors) for $5.00. Same as the others, standard heat treated texture on the other side.
  
• TNT Cosplay Supply carries various sizes and thicknesses of EVA/Craft foam without the heat treatment backing. This is especially good if you don't want to have to deal with sanding down the heat treated backing to help glue adhere better. They are more expensive, but the quality is always great.
  
  Helpful links from the masters: Evil Ted Smith , Punished Props , Odin Makes , KamuiCosplay.
  
  Hope this helps.
  
  *note some prices are subject to change*

Materials:

Three 5-gallon buckets and one lid (Ace Hardware has white ones for $4, if you don't want orange or blue from HD or Lowe's.) All three cost $12-13.

THESE LEDS from Amazon. $13.59

THIS POWER SUPPLY, the Supernight LED Charger. It is $20.99. You will also need a power cord for it, which I recommend just going to literally ANY thrift store and picking out a nice three-pronged power cord. I'm fairly certain that any three-pronged power cord will work, so if you have one you're not using at home, you can use that.

THIS LED GROW LIGHT, which is 300w and cost $50.99.

TWO of these PC fans. Total cost $10.04.

I bought one of this black duct tape, one of this foil tape (although I recommend buying two, as I ran out with my first roll and had to buy another from the store), and also some double-sided tape, because, if your LED strip is like mine, the adhesive backing is almost nonexistent and the tape becomes necessary.

Oh, and good-quality velcro adhesive patches!

You will also need a power drill and a sturdy box cutter.



I started by taping the entire interior of one bucket with the foil tape, save for the bottom portion where the soil goes. Then I covered the outside with the black tape. Next I drilled holes in the bottom for drainage.

Then I took two of the other buckets and used a ruler's width to mark a cut line right below the lip of each bucket to create spacers. The process of cutting the plastic buckets was definitely the worst part of the process, especially since I didn't have a great cutter, so if you're getting a new one, don't be too cheap. I got this one and it's blade locking function no longer works after this project, so be advised. I lined the spacers with foil tape.

Using the remains of one of the other buckets, I trimmed more of the bucket down so that it's now only the bottom and stands 5" tall. I found some random large screws in my toolbox and drilled them around the circumference, which allows the rest of the bucket to be easily lifted off of the drain pan.

I then drew a circle about 1 cm in from the lip of the lid and cut that out. The light fits perfectly on it. There is lots of light escape at the rim, but it looks pretty cool, so I don't mind it for now.

For the power supply, I cut off the female end of the three-pronged cord I got from Arc Thrift and stripped the wires down a bit. There were three wires inside, green (ground), white (neutral), and black (live), which I then connected to driver. I was certain to unplug during any wire-play and I hope everyone else is, too.

The sidelights were sort of a struggle. I used a scrap of the buckets, like maybe 4-5 inches of bucket from about half-way down to a quarter, so not much. I then lined the inside with the double-sided tape, cutting strips, in an effort to conserve tape, which feels very stable. I drilled a hole and fed the cable through, then determined the best spot to drill a hole on the exterior bucket. It's about at the center of the bucket, or in my case, 13 cm down from the lip. Finally, I fed the LED cable through the exterior hole and the lights were basically in place, where it would sit right above the soil.

I didn't want to have to extend any cords, so I found an ideal spot to place the driver on the exterior so that all cables (LED strip, both fans) could reach their appropriate ports. I fixed the velcro onto the bucket and the driver and tidied the wires with some more duct tape.

Finally, I sealed the edges of both fans, inside and outside, with their respective tapes.


I'm pretty sure that's everything I've done to this point, but if I think of anything else, I'll add it. I'm likely going to black-out the spacers to reduce light leak.

Please let me know if you have any advice, questions, comments!

Thank you /r/SpaceBuckets, for the inspiration and wisdom!

For a good budget starter, I would go with these victorinox http://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-7-Piece-Knife-Rosewood-Handles/dp/B0015ZUQ8A/ref=pd_sbs_k_38

They are some of the best values in knives you will find.

There is one other set I have handled that surprisingly impress me, good heft, solid build, user friendly, good factory edge, and steel that is comparable to standard german makers' steel.

http://www.amazon.com/Calphalon-Contemporary-Piece-Cutlery-Set/dp/B006672E82/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Here is another that is a good starter without the redundancy. The wusthof classic chef's knife is the prototype for german chef's knives. Excellent heft, fit and finish as good as it get, and perfect rocking motion. Just get a honing steel to go with it.
http://www.amazon.com/Wusthof-Classic-Gourmet-3-Piece-Knife/dp/B00005MEGJ/ref=sr_1_7?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1370804229&sr=1-7&keywords=wusthof+knives


There is another conversation in this sub about a MAC knife. The gist is that you will be more than satisfied with one really good chef's knife, a cheap replaceable parer, a bread knife, and a honing steel (or ceramic one). In hindsight, I would go this route. It may not be as sexy, but having one really superb knife can make all the difference. The wusthof set above comes close. I personally am a western style japanese knife fan, but I started out learning to take care of less finicky knives before I moved on to them.

Hope this helps, a good knife makes a HUGE difference in kitchenwork.

Here are the PDFs of the artwork for easy printing on 8.5” x 11”. You should be fine printing at 100% and make sure it's Landscape mode.

RIGHT ARM

LEFT ARM

Supplies you’ll need:

Color printing capabilities for 8.5”x 11” paper (standard Letter size)

Two (2) qty. 20” x 30” foam core boards—I went with this size because they are most readily available at stores like Michaels and Staples or even Amazon

20"x30" Foam Core Boards and here is a 10-pack on Amazon if you wanted to do your entire row (DO IT)

Spray Mount or glue stick

Scissors and a boxcutter

A cutting mat would be helpful but is optional

•Feel free to ask questions. If I can, I’ll try to answer but I hope you find it pretty easy. Only the cutting part takes attention but I found that easiest to hack large parts off in straight cuts and then get progressively smaller with the cuts. Good luck and let’s surprise the ALCS with #LETBRETTBANG signs everywhere! LFG

EDIT: You don't need to use foam core. You can probably use a large cardboard box or poster board. That might even be easier to cut. I just recommend the foam core because for its lightweight not much matches its rigidity.

In high school, I used to put up post-it notes with nice/motivational messages on them around campus to help lift spirits. I did hundreds, none of them were the same and I did them all by hand. They were a considerable amount of work, but I like making people happy. I'm proud of myself for that.

This utility knife would help me in my current endeavors and make me very happy.

Thanks for the contest!

I had similar issues, but in the IT field (squeezing through server racks, etc). For your specific situation, I would recommend a combination of:

• Any single-AA light from a reputable company, that comes with a pocket clip: Thrunite, Fenix, Zebralight, etc. Ditch the lanyard, it will snag.
  
• A super-sturdy tool pouch that is made for abuse. Your light will clip into the pouch, instead of your pocket. Ripoffs brand is my favorite, for reasons below. You can buy their stuff on Amazon, but use their main website to look up the model numbers. CO- is clip-on, and BL- is belt loop.
  
   
  
  A good tool pouch is critical here. Your problem is that the pocket-sized AA lights are designed to clip into a pocket or pouch, not directly to your belt. If clipping directly to a belt, the clip will get bent out of shape, or else it will squeeze itself off of your belt when the light snags on something.
  
   
  
  I like Ripoffs brand because they are super rugged, and designed for daily use in your conditions. The belt clip actually surrounds the belt, so it cannot be pulled off accidentally. I recommend getting a flat, open-ended tool pouch or electrician pouch, for easy reholstering. You don't specifically need a flashlight pouch- it can be anything with the right dimensions. Be wary of 'mini maglite' size, as it may be too skinny.
  
  Models that will likely fit your needs would be:
  
  
• CO-64 or CO-32, for just the light
  
• CO-7, If you want things covered and also have some space for wire cutters / pliers
  

I have the Compact Milwaukee and am not a fan; the blade comes loose all the time, especially when doing things like cutting drywall or removing wire insulation. I have used the Fastback Milwaukee though with good results, it’s just a lot bigger and doesn’t feel as good in the hands. I’ve owned 1 of the Compact, 0 of the Fastback.

The Klein pocket knife looking one is garbage for doing actual work with. I’ve owned 1 of these.

I have a SOG Flash 2 w/ serrations that I love but it’s my EDC and doesn’t live in my tool bag. Super sharp and the serrations slice though sheathing like hot butter. I’ve owned 4 of these.

I have a smaller one, a skelotonized Gerber w/ Lenox blades that I love as well. That one does live in my tool bag and is used all the time. The Lenox gold blades are amazing. I’ve owned 1 of these.

Milwaukee Compact

Milwaukee Fastback

Klein Electricians Knife

Sog Flash II

Gerber EAB Lite

I would stay away from getting tools like others mentioned. The cost will add up quickly, even if you get dirt cheap tools. There’s also no guarantee that he’ll even need the tools you get him. You can’t go wrong with a utility knife and a cheap framing hammer, though. Milwaukee knives and an inexpensive California style framing hammer are guaranteed to see plenty of use. Estwing also makes steel handled hammers which will pretty much never need a new handle, but those are pretty rough on the elbows and wrists compared to wood or fiberglass handles. Once he has experience, he’ll know what he needs for whatever job he’s doing.

Everything you mentioned sounds great. What I personally would appreciate most (outside of what you already mentioned) aren’t exactly cheap and may not be every carpenter’s cup of tea depending on what their job calls for. One thing that he’s sure to appreciate but may not be all that excited about right off the bat is wool socks or, if you’re willing to spend a lot of extra money, tactical socks, especially when breaking in a new pair of boots. Other than that, it really just depends on him and what his preferences are.

I do a back yard show too and I find the board method too cumbersome. I now use the duct tape/bag/stake method.

1. Duct tape: You've googled 4 cakes that you could hypothetically stick together because they "jive well". Duct tape them together with the fuses facing outward. Fuse so they all go off at once, or fuse in series. Use different speeds to accomplish your goal. You now have the stability of four cakes all in one. Gluing to a board is too much effort for me.
   
2. Bag: get a garbage bag over the whole thing once fused and you have a waterproof cake pod ready to go.
   
3. Stake: (IMO optional) Wrap Duct tape around the bag and stake to the ground for added stability
   
   Not a fan of roman candles. Dont waste your money.
   
   Make sure you test your fuse and know what speed it burns. My white fuse burns super fast. My green fuse burns faster than my yellow. My yellow burns much faster than the Pink. The pink is slower than the Shiny green fuse. That wasn't always the case. My green fuse was always the slowest and yellow was the fastest.
   
   I also don't like the idea of reloading shells during the show. If you must, you can prep them by zip tying the fuses together in groups of 8 or so. Throw 8 in the tubes and light the bunch. Dont put your head over any part. Stick the rest of prepped shells in a ready box. A ready box is designed so it cannot be left open. You lift up the lid, grab a bunch, the box has a string so that closes itself after opening
   
   Invest in zip ties and metal tape. Use this to tie your fuse together.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-CT422E-Nylon-Length-Purple/dp/B00DY98M1I/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1525752899&sr=1-3&keywords=4%22+zip+ties
   
   I cant begin to tell you how much I love these fuse cutters. This tool changed my fuse cutting life. I spit on scissors now.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Edge-Utility-Cutter-9-37309/dp/B0037IX2BG/ref=sr_1_12?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1525752808&sr=1-12&keywords=handi+cut
   
   This fuse igniter will change your life. Lighters might as well be flint. Thats how next gen this is. Get some propane or MAPP
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1525753004&sr=8-3&keywords=berzomatic
   
   This headlamp makes flashlights a thing of the past and changes your life. Make sure you get one that doesnt have a third strap along the top. If youre not using it you can wear your headlamp on your neck and not lose it.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-Spot-Headlamp-Octane/dp/B06W9HPY25/ref=sr_1_6_twc-13d22461-ce_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525753147&sr=8-6-acs&keywords=head+lamp&content_id=13d22461-ceea-426c-b620-9fe11db17513&ascsubtag=13d22461-ceea-426c-b620-9fe11db17513&tag=ospsearch-20&widget_name=expert_recommendation&content_provider=osp&ingress=search&content_type=story
   
   Also invest some money in some eye and ear protection. I can't tell you how many times I went to bed with a "reeee sound" in my ears, and have gotten pyro shit in my eyes.
   
   Build yourself some real racks if you're up for it. I just recently built myself some and it was a snap.
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p7J4HV4Gak

I would start simple and work my way up. First thing I ever built was a bird house as a kid. I grew up building theater sets. And now I build about anything I set my mind to.


My tool box is huge due to other activities but last time I did a solely wood based project my tool box would have been something like this:
(I apologize if I am saying things you already know, I wrote the fallowing as if the reader has no tool knowledge)

20-oz hammer
>a heavy hammer is always good for driving nails, making bolts fit and generally hitting things as needed. I carry a 20-OZ husky.

Utility Knife
>Utility Knifes are much different then regular knifes, I prefer these retractable's over folders, but that is probably just because it is what I grew up with.

pliers and a wrench

Ratchet set
>Ratchet Sets are nice to have but not necessarily a "Must have" Ratchets make the job of a wrench and pliers easier.

Power Drill
>Linked is the drill I own. This charger will put the battery 0-30% in 10 min and fully charge from dead in 30 min.
>You can also also buy saw and sander attachments for the drill along with many others. I have the jigsaw and the sander and the jigsaw gets tons of use.

Drill Bit Set
>the set linked will let you do just about anything you may need to do with a drill. Drill holes, drive screws, ext.



This list as it stands is $270. I think you will find that as you do projects and continue to learn your tool collection will expand. Tools like air guns/compressors, table saws, miter saws, circular saws, drill presses, ext. are all useful in time, but slightly more expensive... and large..


TD;DR: Really the answer is simply this: You shouldn't buy tools then go looking for a project. Find a project you want to do, then find the tools to do the job.

Hi, I am doing whittling and wood carving here in Wellington for a while and what I found out is that ok wood for whittling is cedar, rimu and kauri. These are reasonably soft and great option for whittling (carving only with knife). For wood carving with gouges is totara and also all the above great option. Otherwise I order basswood(european lime) from Amazon. This is so far the best wood for carving and its a pleasure to carve. I am a bit sad that basswood is not very present here.. :-( even though Ive seen these trees here, they are considered more exotic and it will be quite shame to chop them down..

Down below are links for whittling knife which I use and am very happy with (i have tried more than 15 different whittling/carving knives) and basswood.

​

If you are interested to meet me I offer these whittling/wood carving workshops here in Wellington(the last is 20 July 2019) Then I go back to Czech republic for more wood carving studies:

https://homewoodspirit.com/wood-carving-wellington/

​

VladimirM

​

​

Whittling/wood carving knife:

https://www.amazon.com/Flexcut-Detail-Knife/dp/B00FQCYVY8/ref=sr_1_10?crid=1YKNLPJ3CV2EN&keywords=flexcut+wood+carving+knife&qid=1556563129&s=gateway&sprefix=flexcut+%2Caps%2C397&sr=8-10

Wood for whittling:

https://www.amazon.com/Walnut-Hollow-Basswood-Whittlers-Carving/dp/B0018N9Z72/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=basswood&qid=1556563068&s=books&sr=8-2

Hello (סּںסּَ` )/ۜ

I'm going to make some suggestions that are different than BZWingZero's, but I want to first emphasise that there is no right or wrong answer to this question.

You will of course need a model kit. Some kits are recommended often for their quality and ease of construction. I don't think either of those are overly important for a first kit. Instead, you should choose a kit based on whatever you like. There is no use building a kit unless you're fond of the design, or the series it is from.

I also don't think cutters are necessary at this stage. They are a useful tool that you will want to get later on as you get more into the hobby but at this stage you should use that money to buy another kit.

You will need a knife though. X-ACTO is the default recommendation but I advise against those sort of knives. They will work just fine. but I consider their rounded-ness to be a hazard since they are more likely to roll around and potentially fall off the table. I use [this knife](no ref)(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BKA6IA). The ability to change the length of the blade comes in handy, and I can trust it to stay in place when I put it down.

I have several jobs, kinda. I do crowding sourcing work so this would be helpful since I use my laptop in bed.

My real pay check comes from unloading trucks and I need a good knife. This one works great and my current one is on the verge of breaking.

Mike Mike Mike Mike Mike Mike thanks for the contest.

Humppppppp daaaaayyy. Woot woot

their craft knives are super handy, I always have the smaller one in my pocket. it is the best $5 I ever spent

https://www.amazon.com/26B-by-OLFA/dp/B000TGNZ8O

also as if Olfa blades aren't the sharpest you have ever used, they make even sharper ones

https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-UltraSharp-Black-Snap-Off-Heavy-Duty/dp/B00176HQ6W

I use this one but the stanley will work too.

I've heard that you can get ceramic replacement blades that stay sharp for a very long time, but I have not tried that yet.

I've also heard that extra-wide snap-off utility blades work just as well as the trapezoid utility blades. Cheap snap-offs are usually 9mm wide/tall (this is the size that I first used and found inadequate). The one you linked is 25mm. Maybe the wide ones are also thicker and so cut the same as heavy-duty utility blades? Once my current pack runs out, I will buy and try the one you linked. You should check the size of the one you are currently using and/or go to a hardware store to look at the trapezoid utility blades to compare. The benefit of the snap-off is that you can break off a section of the blade to make the tip sharp again.

I recommend you go with the iFixit 54 Driver Kit its $35 dollars on amazon and will open up almost every you will need in the electronic department, and I would go for something more like Ryobi HP44L for you electric screwdriver, the Flipout you had post does seem too comfortable to use if you plan to do a lot with it. The ryobi and a 68 piece driver set on amazon is only $54 between that kit and the iFixit kit (which is the kit that your Vastar kit is copying) you should be about to do anything for common stuff around your apartment to all the electronic work you could think of. iFixit Ryobi Driver Ryobi Set


I just posted my "Basic Tool Kit" but I don't think you really need all that for what you want to do, pick up these key item as you get extra money or as you can to up grade what you have, Channellock Pliers Set, Estwing Hammer, Wera Screw Set, Milwaukee Tape Measure, and Milwaukee Utilty Knife. With all of this I can't think of anything that could slow you down in an apartment setting.

EDIT: grammar and Format

Can't go wrong with Victorinox. This kit includes several knives for various uses, a honing rod and a case thing for storage. https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Cutlery-Ultimate-Competition-7-Piece/dp/B01I5SF9XG/. You can buy knives individually and i think they have other kits like this available. In general, you're probably not going to beat the quality of victorinox knives for the price.

I'm abusive to knives and these come super fucking sharp. I have a scar from the first time i used the chefs knife in this set. It went through me like a hot knife through warm butter. I've only honed it a few times and it is still very sharp.

Based on reading what you wrote and some more research I narrowed it down to two options. Do you have a recommendation between these two:

Milwaukee Fastback II

Stanley FatMax ExoChange

And will the standard blades that come with them be OK or do I need to buy special ones?

I got my baby. Loving it!(Although I seem to snag the serrations on random bits of fabric when moving it :P).

I really want the SS7 though. (It's youtube for this one).

Get a box cutter that locks for now, and save money for a Spyderco Tenacious / CS Tuff Lite / Ontario RAT / anything in the $30 range where quality is actually good enough to warrant pulling out the ol wallet.

I had the same kind of thinking and I bought this set about 6 months ago. Used it for all of that so far except spatchcocking and it’s been great. I know it’s not quite the same thing, but it did chop up wings like butter though the other day...

https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-7-Piece-Natural-Competition-Handles/dp/B01I5SF9XG

I see it all the time on all kinds of different products, especially food where you wouldn't want to buy a box that's been cut open. It really comes down to employees either caring about what they do, or being properly trained on how to open boxes. Opening boxes sounds easy, but there really is a right and wrong way to do it. I used to work at Wal Mart and we actually had required training on using the box cutters that they supplied to us. They were actually pretty nice because you could adjust the cut depth. I assume that most retailers just give their employees run of the mill box cutters with a set (deep) cut depth. That's just asking for trouble on something like this, though. Of course, even the best box cutter won't help if the employee doesn't care.

Here is the cutter they use.

A good hybrid that I've used is one of the folding knife disposable razor blade holders. You get the best of both worlds: a sturdy knife that holds up well, and the ability to have a razor edge anytime you need it. It's not technically bifl because it uses disposable blades, but the holder itself is probably bifl.

I don't remember which brand I have at home (so I don't know anything about this model) but this is the kind of thing I'm talking about: https://www.amazon.com/Sheffield-12113-One-Hand-Opening-Lock-Back/dp/B0001WBSK8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1480688104&sr=8-10&keywords=utility+pocket+knife

A sharp blade should make a pretty noticeable difference. I personally like the Olfa knives with the snap off graphics blades.

OLFA 9150US SAC-1 9mm Stainless Steel Auto-Lock Graphics Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BKA6IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pWx4CbVX51DHK

Oooooh slanted tote bag sounds so cool! I'll def take a look at their YouTube tutorials again, I need to practice more hahaha.

Btw what do you use for skiving, if you don't mind me asking? Thinking of this buy unsure if it'll get the job done (or at least, more so than one of my paring knives from my kitchen hahaha)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TGNZ8O/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3RZVQ7RBHNDNB&psc=1

I’m pretty sure it’s a Kershaw boot knife https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Concealable-8Cr13MoV-Stealthy-Non-Reflective/dp/B00I0RUZGY

The Kershaw secret agent is pretty well reviewed. I've been thinking of picking one up, myself.

I have a Benchmade Rescue Hook 8MED. Cuts through anything and much better than shears.

It's not common to carry a knife for defense but it is actually surprisingly common to have one for utility. I don't see many karambits but I do see tiny little utility flip knives every once in a while.

Here's one on Amazon.

Usually you see handymen/outdoorsmen/former or current Boy Scouts have these types of things on them. They're fantastic for a lot of situations. Obviously, this is not a weapon meant to be used on a person. This is mainly used for cutting packaging, cutting ropes, outdoor survival, etc.

There are people who do carry knives for defense. Not always legally either. There's a kid that I know that lives down the street who got caught with a defensive knife in his backpack at school a few months ago. He wasn't even using it, he just had his backpack searched for something else entirely. He's currently in court for that. It's not very common to see someone with a long dangerous blade, but they're out there. There's probably way more people with tasers or pepper spray though.

Excellent knife. Classy looking too. It is a bit small, in my opinion. Its big brother is a bit less on the class, but quite a bit more useable, IMO.

http://www.amazon.com/Columbia-River-Knife-Tool-4035/dp/B001QFF5KI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422390611&sr=8-1&keywords=razel

I've never seen an Axis lock razor blade but check out the Milwaukee Fastback 3.

I believe it could fit your needs as it has a button lock that could also be opened/closed one-handed (with a swing) plus also features changeable blades and a wire stripping tool.

There are lots of different tool makers, here's a couple of detail knives that are decent price.

R. Murphy Detail Knife

Flexcut Detail Knife

I'd recommend staying away from the Mora knives. They tend to be longer and a little unwieldy. I think the blade is close to 2 1/4 inches whereas the Flexcut and Murphy knives I listed above are 1 1/2 inches.

For gouges, v-tools, and chisels, Flexcut Craft Carver Set (5pc) is a decent price as well. It's an interchangeable blade set, I started carving with it and still use it to this day.

Another thing you'll want to invest in is a strop and compound. Stropping your blade blade regularly will keep it sharp. Amazon has them if you search for "strop block" or "strop paddle". The sharpening compound I use is a chromium oxide bar or Flexcut Gold.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-10-810-QuickSlide-Pocket-Utility/dp/B000E60H44

I've carried this thing for about five years at a lumberyard and as a mechanic.
I laughed when I saw the link picture, I forgot mine was ever new.
Mine has no more paint.
It is missing the black mechanism cover (lost while cleaning, didn't break).
It has a key ring through the little lanyard hole, which in turn is wrapped in paracord with a lanyard loop.
It has a thick rubber band wrapped around it just below where the slide locks closed, so I can set it on angled surfaces without worrying about it sliding off.

http://www.amazon.com/Cutter-1000-Series-Cut-Easy/dp/B00J5N3SNO

The company issued these cheese ball "EZ cut" box cutters after my boss sliced his leg cutting towards himself through cardboard, but me and most of the guys use whatever we personally prefer.
I wish this box cutter had some kind of spare blade storage, but other than that it's fucking great. I take it apart and clean/oil it maybe every six months.
My coworker Melvin calls mine the EZ Thug.

Definitely BIFL quality box cutter. I'll try and post a pic. I would be really bummed if it disappeared. It's taken all the abuse I've literally thrown at it or thrown it at. It's a trooper. I can also feasibly justify carrying it around out and about because of my job, too, and it would be a nasty weapon if I had to use it as one.

It's a OLFA 26B. I like it so much I'm going to grab a larger Olfa Craft Knife 34B too!

To be completely honest, when I worked retail I was beating the shit out of my knives. Cardboard is absolute hell on blades. I switched over to a folding utility knife like the Sheffield 12113 One-Hand Opening Lock-Back Utility Knife, Blue and never looked back. At least until I left retail.

There's 1000

Modern Box Cutter, 3 blade depth setting , Squeeze Trigger and Edge Guides, Holster, Lanyard, Extra Blade - 1000 Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5N3SNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DXs1BbAQGCK2X

And 4000

Modern Box Cutter, auto retract, blade vanishing technology, extra tape cutter at back, dual side edge guide, 3 blade depth setting, 2 blades and holster - Grey Color 4000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KWJ2BCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yYs1BbVRMJ4S8

https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Edge-Utility-Cutter-9-37309/dp/B0037IX2BG/ref=asc_df_B0037IX2BG/

I guess it depends on if you're looking to stay small or not.

For something larger, check out the Benchmade 7, or Benchmade 8.

For something about the same size, Gerber's GDC Hook Knife or Columbia River's K.E.R.T.

Next up: a kickass utility knife and 20 rolls of packing tape. Should keep them busy into their teens...

https://smile.amazon.com/Sheffield-12113-Ultimate-Utility-Knife/dp/B0001WBSK8/

Olfa 26B, Japan

I own 2, this is the single edge :


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0RUZGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YTwxDbFDP2PSP


Double edge :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IXG44U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iSwxDbNBKPZYW

Found it:

https://www.amazon.com/26B-by-OLFA/dp/B000TGNZ8O

I take it this was not in NYC. This law was an NYPD tactic to arrest people that carried foldable utility blades (like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Sheffield-12113-One-Hand-Opening-Lock-Back/dp/B0001WBSK8/ref=sr_1_6?crid=LMFN4JEZ5ZL8&keywords=folding+utility+knife&qid=1559309559&s=gateway&sprefix=folding+utility%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-6) for whatever reason (getting arrest numbers up, looking good during performance review, locking up people they didn't like, etc.)

If you’re being forceful that’s when it gets really dangerous. It’s not you, X-acto blades don’t retain their sharp edge after a few cuts. I remember in design school I’d be tossing those blades out every few cuts. Dull blades can ruin your work or glance into body parts. The scary part for me was that x-acto had a disclaimer about snapping tips that can fly into unprotected eyes of you have a heavy hand.

Seemingly economical, they’re not ideal for leather work which is why people really like to invest in quality tools that they sharpen themselves.

If cost is an issue you could try using a utility knife that can change angles just for the long straight cuts and only use x-acto when you have to or get an affordable leather knife