I"m assuming that you will be going soon, say the next month or so, time of year counts, but I'll assume it's soon.

Your tent is a little "meh." it'll work but it might not last so long; especially take core of the poles, they beak easily. Also the cheapo tent stakes that come with the tent are going to bend and you will curse them every time you set up your tent. Pick up some like these and they will serve you well. (Personally I hate using tents; they are hassles to set up and take down, and generally not pleasant to sleep in. If you can help it try sleeping under the stars and see if that suits you.)

You might find your sleeping bag to be a bit chilly, I'd recommend a 20 degree bag with a hood. I know it won't get that cold but the degree ratings are quite exaggerated so 20 degrees is really more suitable for 50 degrees. If you don't want to spend more money on a bag, make sure you have warm clothes and a good fitting beanie.

Air mattresses are fine, just take care to feel out for thorns or anything that might puncture it. Also you might want a blanket or something in between you and the mattress because it will suck out the heat from underneath you if you don't have some insulation.

You should have a tarp or footprint to put your tent on to protect it and the air mattress from punctures, it's worth it. The tarp you have should be fine (maybe doubled over if its thin), but a footprint will be more convenient.

For $15 that stove is a great deal, buy it if it still works fine. It runs off of white gas AKA "camp fuel", which you can find at many grocery stores, gas stations, any place with a sporting goods section, and many stores near popular camping areas. Finding white gas is not really an issue.

Don't buy matches, just get 2 or 3 Bic lighters. Really you should learn to make a fire using only your lighter, make that your goal each night. In a pinch my favorite fire starter is one you can make at home before your trip. Get an old egg carton and stuff each cup with cotton balls or dryer lint. then pour melted candle wax into each cup until about 90% full. Let the carton harden then pack it away. To use it rip off one cup and light the cardboard edge, you will have a strong flame for about 15 minutes.

Don't buy a filter. Water will be easy to come by at most campsites, but not all of them have a tap so make sure to bring along a few extra gallons just in case.

Lanterns produce almost no usable light, save your money and stick with the headlamp. Also that headlamp is excellent I highly recommend it. Protip: leave it around your neck like a necklace when you sleep then it's easy to find in the middle of the night.

I have a lot of experience with wilderness medicine and those pre-made kits are mostly worthless, you are much better off making your own kit.

I Recommend:

• 2-3 Rolls Athletic Tape - This works for making bandages and splints, covering blisters, cuts, burns, ect.
  
• Small Bottle of Ibuprofen (Advil) - Pain reliever, and muscle relaxant that aids in the recovery and prevention of injuries
  
• 1-2 Ace bandages - Makes bandages, splints, and slings
  
• Duct Tape - General purpose item
  
• Roll Gauze - For major injuries with significant bleeding
  
• Individually Wrapped Antihistamine (Benadryl) Tablets - Optional if you don't have allergies
  
• Bic Lighter - Sterilizes metal instruments
  
• Mini Swiss Army Knife - Excellent scissors and tweezers for minor injuries, sterilize with a flame before each use
  
• Sunscreen - Don't want to get burned
  
• Triple Antibiotic (Neosporin) - Ward off infection of open wounds, do not apply directly to the cut but rather around like a defensive wall
  
• Alcohol Prep Pads - Cleans and sterilizes open wounds before dressing
  
• Add Any Prescription Meds / Regularly Taken Medicines - Inhaler, insulin, Epi-Pen, ect.
  
• Add Anything That Makes You Feel Better Knowing You Have It - eg snake bite kits, aspirin, SAM splint, burn gel
  
  Chair looks comfy, get one you like with at least 1 cupholder
  
  A good knife makes a great survival tool and is just generally a useful item, check here every few days for a good deal on high quality knives. Multi tools are great to have around camp but an inexpensive set of tools would be much better for your situation. If you want a true multi-tool this one is good quality and a fair price.
  
  

Alright, sounds good. A very basic recommendation would be a Spyderco Endura, which is a great knife in VG-10 stainless steel. In this steel you should occasionally oil your blade, but that's really it. If that looks too big, the Spyderco Delica is the same knife, essentially, but smaller. Another good Spyderco would be the Spyderco Stretch, also in VG-10. All three of these have strong back locks.

For a slightly more expensive knife, the Spyderco Manix 2 comes in 154CM stainless steel and a hard-use ball bearing lock.

The Benchmade Griptilian comes in 154CM stainless steel and has the second strongest lock on the market on it- the axis lock. There's also a version with a thumb hole instead of a thumb stud.

The Buck TM Vantage Pro comes in S30V stainless steel- one of the better steels available up until the $150 mark- but only costs about $60, and is by far the cheapest knife of its size available in S30V.

The Kershaw Blur in S30V is an amazing assisted knife in good steel. The Kershaw Junk Yard Dog is a great folder in a composite of a couple of good steels.


The Zero Tolerance 0700 is kind of funny looking but a solid knife in S30V.

So far, all of these are within your price range. Now, I'll move up just a bit and double it- you're now looking at a $200 range.


The Manix 2 XL in S30V is one of the strongest folders out there. It's definitely a hard-use knife and will survive a hell of a lot.

The Benchmade 275 Adamas is probably the strongest folder in existence. It's in D2 tool steel and has an incredibly robust axis lock that was beefed up to take more damage.

The Spyderco Caly 3.5 in ZDP-189 steel is an incredible knife in fantastic blade steel. I wish they made more things in it, I really do.

The Spyderco Techno is a bit smaller but will certainty last nonetheless.

The Spyderco Sage in S30V will do it for ya, that's for sure.

I'd love me some Benchmade Emissary in S30V.

The ZT 0350 is a folding tank.

All of these knives will last for whatever you want to do with them. Some are too heavy to reasonably EDC, like the BM Adamas and the ZT 0350, but others, like the BM Griptilian, are perfect EDC knives.

If you have questions on any of the knives I've linked or about their care and maintenance, feel free to ask.

5 knives

Above is a link to 5 folding knives that may or may not fit what you're looking for and 4 are well within your price range of under $120. One is slightly above at 139.00 on Amazon, but the Chrome extension called Honey is currently allowing a $10 discount. All are made by Kershaw/ZT.

1. The ZT 0350 is the top knife with the curvy ergonomics to it. It's probably the most basic ZT folder and is currently the only ZT knife I own. It is good for larger hands, it's very sturdy (and heavy) and technically more than $120 but only barely.
   
   
2. The Kershaw Fatback is next to it and has a more triangular appearance. Relatively newer offering from Kershaw, I think, but is certainly proving to be popular. It's as long when closed as the ZT 0350 but is thicker from one scale to the other on the handle AND is lighter. The actual specs for this and all the knives mentioned can be found by Googling them. This knife is currently under $25.
   
   
3. The Kershaw Skyline is probably the most well known knife, I wouldn't be surprised is this has its own lore here on r/knives. It's popular for a reason being lightweight, and well tested as an older, mainstay model from Kershaw. As you can see, mine is showing wear and scratches compared to the other knives! Amazon is currently listing the basic version of this knife for $46.
   
   
4. The next one is the Kershaw OD-1 which is DISCONTINUED. I didn't know this when I took a photo of it for you and started this list. This means the price is higher than you'd pay normally and isn't really available on Amazon or in stores. You can find it on the link provided (I think) which is to one Stop Knife Shop, you can also try Ebay or Bladeforums to find a used one. The link provided appears to be offering this knife for $53, but I don't know what condition that's in. The one I bought on Amazon back in like 2013 or whatever was ~$30-$35. I actually have two of them, but I'm not sure where the other came from. They are cool knives, fun to play with, but not tacticool.
   
   
5. The last one pictured is the Kershaw Cryo and is currently available on Amazon for ~$19. It is the smallest of the knives shown, smaller than the Fatback with the triangular handle by what looks like 2 inches when open. This would be a great beater knife, something that would be a fine flipper and used briefly but would not be comfortable for extended use, especially in large hands. If memory serves, there's two different Cryo models with 2 different sizes, but I have only the one you see. Could be the smaller of the two models.
   
   NOT PICTURED but I do also have the Kershaw Blur which Amazon is listing at ~$35 currently which is HIGHLY recommended even though it doesn't have a flipper. It's spring assisted opening and a very comfortable grip for larger hands. That price is so good, they're normally $55-$60 that I'm grabbing one of them again as an extra.
   
   I could list like 4-5 more Kershaw knives but my comment is too long already. If you would prefer more variety in recommendation, Spyderco has some solid options but if you want to go BALLS DEEP into tacticool, one of my most valued knives because it was bought for me as a gift was the Cold Steel AK-47. This knife is quite a bit larger than the ZT shown but is nearly the same price at ~$125-130 on Amazon. You might be able to find it cheaper on Ebay. Be careful though, there is the regular and mini version!

A little late to the party... You are following the same trajectory as me. I'm just now expanding into fixed blades, but before you put the brakes on budget folders you should check out a few more options.

The Coast FX350 (9cr18mov, G-10, frame lock, 3-position clip) is a beauty for under $20. The BX315 (9cr18mov, rubberized handle, lock back) is great for wet work and is currently selling for just under $15—it has a sheath instead of a clip because the large rubberized grip doesn't slide in and out of pockets very well. The BX315 also has a little brother, the BX300.

If you like the Kershaw Link's profile then you should try a Flock (8cr13mov, FRN, tip-up clip) that's going for $15. It is a dealer exclusive that was poorly marketed and escaped most people's notice. Probably one of the best Kershaw deals going right now.

Spyderco's Spy-DK is currently selling for $30. It's a special non-locking model for Denmark knife laws. It's old school slip joint action but you get a N690Co blade that is a step up from their more expensive budget folders.

Back to fixed blades...

As I mentioned in another comment, Schrade is a good place to start for budget fixed blades—check out the SCHF36 Frontier for under $30. One thing to note is many fixed blades in this category are going to use 1095 steel which typically requires some maintenance, but most are powder coated to address this. Don't let 1095 scare you away from some nice options.

Now, I know you are looking for budget knives but there is a mid-range option that you may want on your wishlist. If you have an Ontario Rat folder (which you should) then you might want to compliment it with a Rat 3, 5, or 7. Like I said, I wouldn't consider Ontario fixed blades as 'budget' but they're a bargain compared to brands like Tops.

I hope this helps and have fun exploring, this rabbit hole runs DEEP.

Steel is steel mate. You can go with the expensive stuff, or with the cheap stuff - We're talking expensive at several hundred and cheap as under 20-50. I've seen 20 dollars knives made just as well as the 600 dollar knives, they just dont have the name brand. It's a chunk of steel, treated so it stands up to specific conditions and holds an edge better. It looks to be full tang - not sure what is up with the holes in the blade, or the design near the MT-5 logo. I found pictures online, looks like the steel comes out a bunch there? No idea what this design is or what purpose it could have - looks sketchy. And the holes in the blade...I mean I've seen the 5 dollar walmart knives with holes so you can create a makeshift spear but..Other then that, no idea why they are on this knife, and they cause more harm then good. You can use it for basic bushcrafting tasks but I'd be careful batoning, I've personally never heard of the brand - it could be name brand and be great, but it has some weird designs.

​

Really, steel is steel - all the fancy features cause more harm than good.

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Stainless-4-1-Inch-Military/dp/B004ZAIXSC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=1-4

That is a 12 dollar knife, and you really won't ever need more, but there are better options. The 12 dollar knife has a thinner blade and isn't suitable to as heavy duty work, but is a great beater knife for doing anything.

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Bushcraft-Survival-Starter-4-3-Inch/dp/B00BFI8TOA/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=1-7

And their top of the line knives are

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Garberg-Carbon-Leather-Sheath/dp/B07B8SP4G9/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-10

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-M-12642-Stainless-Compatible-4-3-inch/dp/B01I1GITMA/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-12

There's a carbon version and stainless steel version. I'm gonna be honest...for the most part, they all do the same thing, but people want different things and fancier things - the garberg is the only full tang out of the bunch, but even their half tang knives are bulletproof, they hold up incredibly well and I've batoned with him countless times without issue. Mora, IMO makes the best knives - I have several other brands, and there are some I like better for ergonomics - but that's not the point, the point is any knife will work, steel is steel. Just find what you think looks and feels good, learn how to sharpen it and what you like, it depends on the what materials/types of trees you are working with, and what type of work you do. I prefer convex and Scandinavian grind (V Grind) knives, the Cudeman MT-5 looks to be a full flat grind - which I mean..AFIAK is mostly used in like chef knives and stuff, it's incredibly sharp but it's not durable, hitting hard objects is gonna cause knicks and it's gonna be brittle. This is all from experience, it's not like im an expert - but to be fair, I'd just keep trying different ones and see how you like it, but I wouldn't go spending crazy money, the $300 knives you see all the fancy bushcrafters use...these are what I call wall knives..They use them in the videos cause they look good but most people would just keep them at home and keep using their beater knives, because we are hard on our equipment and honestly, they work just as wall, all the fancy scalings and what not make them expensive, but they don't make them better.

TL;DR: Steel is steel. Get a cheap knife, in a better grind suited for the work your doing. All depends on what work you do, and what tress you have, soft woods, hard woods ETC.

​

Edit: Definately don't have to go with Mora, I've just always used them and they've done me well.

For the record, I feel the same that the Cryo is too slippery - which is why I'm super glad Kershaw released a G10 version of it last year.

I also agree that the Tenacious is just a bit too big for EDC - and they do make the Persistence, which is a shrunken version of the Tenacious, with a 2.75 inch blade vs the Tenacious' 3-3/8 inch blade. If you wanna go even smaller, the Ambitious has a 2.25" blade. All 3 knives share a similar design (though the Ambitious is small enough that the proportions might look a little weird to some).

A few other knives of note that are standouts in the sub-$50 price range:

• CRKT Ripple - Ken Onion design with a more-traditional drop point blade, IKBS, 8Cr14MoV. Usually on most people's "Under $50" list.
  
  
• Kershaw Leek - Again, a little slippery and still Speedsafe but a slightly weaker torsion bar so not as forceful. Some people have issues with broken tips since they're a little thin, but this thing was the best under $50 when it came out.
  
  
• Ontario RAT 1 - At $25 this thing is a pretty great package, if not a little big. 3.5" blade, but it's AUS-8 if you don't like the 8Cr China steels (even if they are pretty similar).
  
  
• SOG Flash II - again, a 3.5 inch, AUS-8 blade. Assisted opening, but much less forceful than Speedsafe.
  
  
• The Kershaw Emerson CQC-6K has blown up since it's release and a lot of high speed low drag tactical types love it for EDC use. $25 makes it a pretty appealing choice and rock solid under $30.
  
  
• The Spyderco Delica 4 is just a touch over $50, averaging about $60, but it's also a go-to knife in the $50 for many people. VG-10 steel on this one is a big selling point.
  
  
• On the same hand, the Kershaw Blur is usually available for about $60, and for those looking for a big folder (seriously this thing is large) it's a great choice. Sandvik 14C28N as standard steel, also available with S30V for about $75.
  
  A few notes here
  
  
• You'll see a lot of sub $50 knives using 8Cr13MoV or 8Cr14MoV. The main difference is a little more Chromium in the 8Cr14MoV, leading to a little more corrosion resistance. A lot of people loved the Skyline, but there were a few issues with minor rust spots on the knives, leading to many companies switching to 8Cr14MoV for some of their knives (most of the budget Kershaws are 8Cr14MoV now).
  
  
• Kershaw has many many options for budget folders under $50, for all kinds of aesthetic tastes. The Chill, Thermite, Link, Oso Sweet, etc. I've owned a handful of Kershaws, and loved all of them, especially for the price.
  
  
• The 8Cr steels (13MoV and 14MoV) are pretty much on par with AUS-8, especially from CRKT, Spyderco, and Kershaw who all do a good job on their heat treats. There's a slight difference in hardness (3 to 4 HRC difference by most counts), but really they're nearly identical for all intents and purposes, mainly sharpening and edge retention. Some people just prefer AUS-8 because they don't like so called "China steel."
  
  
  ETA a few more links and some clarification of my still-awake-at-5am rambling.

1. I have a pizza cutter similar to [this one] (https://smile.amazon.com/Pizza-Cutter-Stainless-Integrated-Mozzbi/dp/B01DLHGXA4/ref=sr_1_6?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1496203463&sr=1-6&keywords=pizza+cutter) but the exact brand isn't on here because I bought it from a different site. It is by and far the best I've ever used. I went through quite a few trying to find one that cuts well :)
   
   
2. I keep [this] (https://smile.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660-Onion-Folding-SpeedSafe/dp/B0009VC9Y0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496203582&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+onion+leek) with me at all times. It was a gift from a friend many moons ago. We were all amazed that he had bought it on amazon.com because back then we thought amazon only sold books :D
   
   
3. My favorite mobile app is [Pokemon Go!] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nianticlabs.pokemongo&hl=en)
   
   
4. [This] (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00BJQPX8S/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IA15C3NOZJXFA&colid=2Z0D7A1SRJBDE) "welcome" mat is amazing.
   
   
5. [This] (http://www.valuecityfurniture.com/product/item/accents/furniture/tv-stands-and-media-centers/grenoble-media-credenza-teal/1639347?utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CjwKEAjwsLTJBRCvibaW9bGLtUESJAC4wKw1q_R1JBCXLoWCo0obyzyn2NledF37RbGhZ7qI0Y-BUxoCMMTw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds) is my favorite piece of furniture. I bought it on super duper black friday clearance and I just love it. It's distressed and holds a lot of crap inside of it. It helps give the appearance of adulthood!
   
   
6. I have a much cheaper version of [this] (https://smile.amazon.com/Eye-Vac-EVPRO-Professional-Touchless-Stationary/dp/B0011G20QY/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1496203991&sr=1-1&keywords=electric+dustpan) (also an off brand not bought on amazon) and it's really awesome. It has a setting that senses when you sweep stuff to it and just sucks it up. My room mate is "floored" by it and loves it almost as much as I do!
   
   shrdbrd you lazy bum, heres some cool stuff.

Edit: for the record, I posted this before the lasybugs thing took off

You're not going to make any great progress on a PC build for that price. Besides, PC tech is changing so quickly, you shouldn't buy any one piece of it until you can buy all of it.

If you're looking for X1 games, I'm a huge fan of Destiny, but it's not for everyone. If you're looking for more of a sure hit, check out Shadows of Mordor or Dragon Age: Inquisition.

If you want to change things up a little, here are some of my favorite purchases (I'm a minor Amazon addict):

• The best thermos you've ever seen
  
  
• A super high quality door-hung b-ball hoop (you'll want to buy a nerf ball with it, the one it comes with is dangerous to valuables in the room)
  
  
• One of the best board games ever made
  
  
• A classy and useful EDC knife (there are lots of options on this front, /r/knifeclub has great recommendations)
  
  Check out my sub /r/everymanshouldhave for more recommendations like this. It's not super active of late, but it has some great suggestions if you look at the history

First I'd make sure you both have all the clothing and footwear you need to be comfortable and the things you'd need for an urban day out (pack, water bottle, some snacks, etc.). Nothing ruins a day like an unexpected blister / rain shower that causes a chill / burned hand from a fire.

After that I'd consider basic survival needs and comforts that might be different in the woods. A small survival kit (and the knowledge required to use it), toilet paper, bug spray, gloves to protect your hands from heat and thorns, a tarp (which you already say you have) to escape the sun or rain, etc.. One suggestion I have that I don't see mentioned often is a lightweight foam kneeling pad. You can get them at the dollar stores in the gardening section usually and for the negligible weight and space they're worth having in my opinion. They are great for kneeling on (obviously), which you'll be doing a lot when practicing bushcraft skills like fire making, and they make a huge difference for the backside when sitting on ground / logs / rocks that are hard / wet / dirty.

With comfort and survival covered you can look at the real 'tools' of bushcraft. The most important thing, in my opinion, is a good knife for each of you. Soooo many projects / skills that are considered 'bushcraft' require / are made easier when you have a decent knife. You don't need to spend a lot (a Mora Companion is a great choice for under 10 dollars), just be sure to do your homework before spending money so you don't end up with something that looks cool but isn't practical for your bushcraft needs.

Beyond the knife I won't go into details about the rest of my suggestions but I think you'll find reasoning behind them fairly self-evident. I've been bushcrafting / camping / hunting for the better part of 2 decades now and all items I list below are all ones that I've personally used many, many times and wouldn't recommend if I didn't find them awesome and reliable. If you look into them further I think you'll find most / all are considered the best 'bang for your buck' option in their given class.


Mora Companion fixed blade knife - carbon or stainless doesn't matter, both are great: ~$12-15

Nalgene leak-proof water bottle - The cheaper HDPE bottle is actually better believe it or not: ~$5-8

Bahco Laplander folding saw - Silky saws are worth the upgrade price in my opinion but are definitely just a 'nice to have', considering Bahcos can't be beat for the price / function / reliability: ~$20-25

Sawyer Mini water filter - filters twice as good as the LifeStraw (0.1 vs 0.2 microns), lasts 10 times longer (100k vs 1k gallons), is much more versatile (you can screw the Sawyer onto a 2 litre coke bottle), and costs less to boot: ~$19

Fiskars X7 hatchet - I know you already have one bust I figured I'd mention it. For a bombproof, light weight, made in Finland hatchet it can't be beat for the price: ~$20-25

Tramontina 18" machete - great balance and blade, just sand or wrap the handle in some tape if yours isn't finished perfectly to avoid potential blisters (this is also where good gloves come in) - ~$15-18

Well the biggest issue is that they have a hollow handle. This means that the cavity of the handle is empty and can be dangerous/prone to breaking. Most people dislike the bear grylls series because he is somewhat of a poser when it comes to actual survival skills. However the knives have been heralded as comfortable and honestly they aren't as terrible as the benchmade fanboys make them out to be. I am completely sure you could use it just fine for most tasks. I actually have the folding version and while it isn't my favorite knife it isn't bad especially for 1/10 the price of a benchmade/spyderco. Even if the knife isn't ideal don't think for a second you couldn't use it effectively. Knives in general are really only a sharpened chunk of metal. Anybody telling you differently either wants your money or someone trying to convince themselves that $300 on a knife makes it somehow magically better or invincible.

Don't fall into the "I need a $200+ knife to survive" fallacy though many are the same and the only real thing that matters in any cutting tools performance is

• Material (most knives are cheap on this so just try to read up on steel/ hardness. You most likely do not want a stainless steel (high carbon instead). I prefer a 63hrc blade but then it will be brittle so you cannot pound on it without it chipping but the higher hardness will make it suck to sharpen but nice to hold and edge/get sharp. Also higher hrc-hardness can chip in cold climates so you might have to warm the blade. Most knives/axes are about 58 hrc which is a pretty good balance. Just remember there is no free lunch and everything has drawbacks. You don't need the best steel just make sure it will work)
  
  
• Geometry (For a camping knife you probably want a scandi or convex grind. Most knives are a double bevel which is cheaper to produce but doesn't quite match up to the other grinds. If you can't find one don't worry it isn't a huge deal just because you don't have a $500 knife doesn't mean you cannot cut a tree with it.)
  
  Ok there are more criteria like handle, finish, comfort,economy but generally those are the big two that determine how a knife will preform. Lots of manufacturers want you to spend a fortune but it just isn't necessary. Mora makes a great knife that has so many uses and is so cheap/replaceable you can almost afford to lose it (every penny saved can be spent on items used more often like a bag or boots). It is a bit small for "survival" but personally I would get a hatchet to serve as a larger cutting tool ( This one is $40 and made by hultafors bruks a pretty decent axe company and combined with the mora is still $50 total much less than some of the acclaimed knives). I don't buy into the big knife hype simply because I find them cumbersome to use for general tasks which I find myself doing much more of than hacking trees for survival. Your mileage may vary. If you really want a big knife the above suggested K-bar and Ontario are pretty great suggestions and the military style is very hard to beat for usability.
  

Good breakdown from /u/Koridel - this guy's pretty much right on point, OP. I've got a Minigrip and a couple Delicas, about the same sentiment as he holds but less experience with using the BM, so less wear-related problems experienced. I don't really carry the minigrip because it's a bit too small to fit my palm/pinky securely whereas the grip on the Delica's great. I carried a Delica as an EDC for over a year, still break it into the rotation just for nostalgia - it's a great little knife.

One question - doesn't seem like funds are a huge issue, but have you looked at a Skyline? You can pick one up for ~$33 from Amazon and it's been a sleeper hit for me. There's a pretty strong following for that knife and I'd heard good things about it before, but I didn't really think much about it until I YOLO-bought one of the damascus models off BladeHQ. Handle ergos are great, the blade is a great size for how slim the knife is when folded.. eh, just something to consider if you don't want a big thump to your wallet. Only thing is that, being a flipper, it'll be a bit more noticeable while deploying if you snap it out, otherwise it'll be slightly less natural/comfortable when going with just the thumbstud than others.

Hope that helps some

• For containers I just use 1 pint cheap plastic containers that soups come in or deli give you. I guess you can find a nice piece of Tupperware that is about that size, and a taller one for taller prints. You could probly just ask the Deli guys at a food store for a few empty 1 pint containers + lids.
  
  
  • 2 containers - one with pure IPA and one with clean water. Good lids that won't leak.
    
    
• 91% or 99% IPA for cleaning your build plate / resin vat / scraping tools / desk / etc. and for using in the print wash container. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABPUGH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• More gloves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CF49NJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My palm width is about 3.6 inches / 9.2 cm and I bought the XL which fit ok.
  
  
• More paint strainers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQELZ7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Better removal tools: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Also get some Xacto knives + extra blades + sand paper sheets in varying grit 300-400 count for smoothing off support marks. https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527015690&sr=8-6&keywords=xacto+blade
  
  Try to find the flexible sand paper sheets that are meant to be hand-used. I found them in Loews 3m brand, this is the exact type of sheets i use: https://www.amazon.com/3M-COMPANY-28320SB-UF4-320G-Sandpaper/dp/B00PPD1CYA/ref=sr_1_7?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1527015867&sr=8-7&keywords=sandpaper+320+grit+3m
  
  
• Find a source for cheap paper towels. I use the real cheap paper towels that you find in bathrooms, the stuff that's really stiff and crappy. I don't use name brands such as Bounty or whatever because the higher quality kitchen paper towels leave behind bits of cloth dust, which is unwanted for cleaning the resin vat / build plate / LCD screen. You'll also go through shitloads of paper towels and the higher quality towels are a waste of money. https://imgur.com/7XeelfV
  
  
• Get a couple sunglasses cleaning cloths. Not the microfiber cloths with the consistency of a bathroom towel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L77OXE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B009L77OXE&pd_rd_wg=OcvWJ&pd_rd_r=3AAAFBB1202BXG3K8QN0&pd_rd_w=cwumx That's just an example - you can probly finder cheaper and better sized/quality towels such as: https://www.amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0050R67U0&pd_rd_r=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ&pd_rd_w=0uPs5&pd_rd_wg=eAMNx&psc=1&refRID=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ
  
  I use these cloths on the LCD screen and the resin vat FEP sheet. After cleaning the resin vat FEP sheet and the LCD with paper towels, I give them a nice polish with the cleaning cloth to remove any other smudges or dust. Make sure to have a cloth dedicated to ONLY the LCD screen, as you want the keep the LCD screen pristine and free of dust and smudges.
  
  You'll also want a print curing station to harden the prints once they have been cleaned. I bought:
  
  
• A plastic cookie jar; clear plastic, round: https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/oxo-good-grips-reg-3-piece-pop-canister-set/3262796?categoryId=12605
  
  
• UV LED Light Strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZQZDBR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Heavy duty tape, such as duct tape or gorilla tape. I used black gorilla tape.
  
  
• Aluminum Foil
  
  

1. Wrap the LED strip around the plastic container to this effect: https://imgur.com/oB98Qxl . Make sure you wrap so that the power cable connector will be at the bottom of the container. Make sure you secure the beginning and the end of the LED strip to container with a piece of tape.
   
   
2. Wrap the LED'd container with aluminum foil - shiny side facing inward. Lay out a long piece of foil on the floor, shiny side facing up, just enough to cover the container's length once. Secure the beginning of the foil piece with a piece of tape, and then secure the end of the foil. Try to wrap without causing creases in the foil, keeping the foil as shiny and smooth as possible. Make sure your power cable plug in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   
3. Secure a piece of foil to the base, shiny side facing inward.
   
   
4. Secure a piece of foil to the lid, shiny side inward. Take a piece of tape and make a 2-sticky-sided loop to secure the foil. Make sure the foil is not interfering with the lid's ability to securely close.
   
   
5. Wrap the whole thing with your gorilla or duct tape. Make sure your power cable plug-in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   

Give me a minute, I can link you to a comment I found explaining it in depth

EDIT: I'm just gonna paste it here. For reference, I,believe priming is coating it in a thin layer of paint to act as a base. Use black primer for darker results and white for lighter. Credit to u/pyrese

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

Knives.

I feel some sort of a utility-blade knife is great for fine / small / delicate work, and pair it with a nice medium - large, solid fixed blade knife is a good idea.

This is a ridiculously nice knife for the price:

SOG Tactical Knife with Sheath - “Field Knife” Fixed Blade Knives FK1001-CP 4” Fixed Blade Knife with Full Tang Sharp Knife Blade + Survival Knife Grip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUJBTBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.n2YBb2XANXSB



Also I’ve found that Schrade knives seem to provide an exceptionally good value. I bought this one for my bag when it was closer to I think $22/23.00....can’t beat that! Honestly I’m prob going to start collecting them. They’re super inexpensive yet pretty good quality / pretty well rated.

As much as I truly love and used to only go for the best, most expensive stuff, I’d rather have several less expensive knives stashed around instead of one super expensive one that I’m afraid to use, lose, break.

Schrade by BTI Tools SCHF36CP Frontier, 5" High Carbon Steel Blade, Full Tang, Clam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019RSXGYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Dq2YBb8BG9BV0


I did some research (of course....all my suggestions here are very well researched) and for the price, the 2 knives above are very good values. Don’t get me wrong; I love super high-quality, expensive things - especially knives - but;

• I have around 20-ish knives and literally the only knife I ever use is my Gerger EAB utility knife and I only use it to open packages. :-|
  
  
• As these are dedicated for car kits, there’s a chance they’ll get lost or stolen so I certainly don’t want a $200+ knife to play that role.
  
  
  
  Gerber EAB Pocket Knife [22-41830] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016KHW2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_px2YBb0W6VBGD
  
  These things are ridiculously small and useful. Great for EDC or VEDC. Been carrying one for years & use it all the time. Get the one I linked, NOT the fancy-looking new “upgraded” model - it is a POS. I bought 2-3 and the clip broke off on EACH of them almost immediately. It is also much larger than the original EAB.
  
  OR you can get something like this because you have spare blades + larger handle / better grip.
  
  Folding Utility Knife, Heavy Duty, Triple Ground Blades Stay Sharp, Pocket Clip Klein Tools 44131 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A9GGGYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wy2YBbA03MMH6
  
  
  
  
  Also a crowbar of some sort so that you aren’t tempted to use any of your knives as a crowbar.

Lol, alright for example:

• Spyderco Delica 4 FFG: For your price range this is going to be the "best" steel you can get in a near 3" folding knife (VG-10). By best I mean the best edge retention in a stainless steel. However, being over 2.5" in some places (Chacago for example) the knife will be illegal. Also, many people do not like the look of the spyderhole as it can be seen as aggressive in office environments. Also the FRN handles, while very strong, have a cheap/plastic feel to them.
  
  
• Spyderco Tenacious: Compared to the Delica, 8CR13MOV is a "worse" stainless steel (not as good edge retention, more prone to chipping during heavy impacts). However, the extra blade length is better for many outdoor tasks (breaking down tree branches). The handle is also G10, which is slightly tougher and has a much better feeling in hand than FRN.
  
  
• Spyderco Centofante 3: A more "gentlemanly" and "office friendly" version of the Delica with a slightly longer blade. Again, VG-10 and FRN.
  
  
• Kershaw Cryo II: Same steel as the tenacious. Metal handles slightly tougher than G10. Flipper action has "cool" factor. The blade grind makes the tip a touch stronger than on the tenacious.
  
  
• Kershaw Skyline: One of the most iconic of Kershaw's knives. Hollow ground blade makes it great at slicing tasks.
  
  
• Esee Izula: Skeletonized fixed blade. 1095 Steel is significantly better than the other steels listed at "chopping" tasks as it is not prone to chipping at all. It is NOT stainless and so the blade has a protective coating over most of it. The steel will require mineral oil/cleaning to prevent rusting.
  
  
• Becker BK 24: Similar to the Esee Izula but D2 steel which has better edge retention and more corrosion resistance than 1095. It is also much harder to sharpen. Many think the BK24's handle is also less comfortable, the sheath is worse, and there are less available after market modifications.
  
  
• Ontario Rat Series (linked the RAT I. RAT 2 similar but smaller): Ontario's version of the tenacious. Bladeshape generally more people friendly. Another very popular beater option.
  
  
• Morakniv Knives (there are MANY, this is just one): Highly regarded in the "bushcraft" community. High carbon steel (similar to 1095) with a scandi-grind which is great for field sharpening and woodworking. Only partial tangs so not advised to use for battoning tasks or chopping.
  
  
• Kershaw OD-2: Gentlemanly knife with great flipping action.
  
  There are a LOT more suggestions I could add...

Whatever you do when it comes to buying a knife, don't skimp. I don't mean you have to spend a lot, but you should find a "knife class" you like and buy the best in that class.

Honestly, if you're at a point where you don't know what you want in a knife, the best possible place to start is with a Kershaw brand knife, which is the sort of knife even knife enthusiasts don't mind having around, even if it doesn't rock their world. I am consistently surprised with how much quality you get per dollar with Kershaws.

I don't know how big of a knife you want, but I have a Leek and the only word I can use to describe it is elegant. Far more than it should be for what I paid for it.

I started investigating knives with Kershaws and I would still buy them now, even though I've moved on to Benchmades and the like.

A good lighter always comes in handy even if you don't smoke. People are often looking for a light or you may have to melt something or light a candle or something. Nice as Zippos are, I find their design to be a little outdated (they dry out fast if they're not used).

I bought a Vertigo Jolt as an impulse purchase about a year ago and it's been banged around and refilled several times and I really like it; enough that if this one dies I will buy another.

One thing to consider about EDC stuff and maybe this is just my problem: I don't like buying the best of class for EDC because I know it will irk me to have things bang around in my pocket or possibly be lost since I have it with me everyday.

I've rolled my own engine for my most recent project as a solo developer; if you're interested, you can see it here.

​

Existing engines are absolutely brilliant; Unity and Unreal especially are insanely powerful and applicable for a large percentage of games or graphical apps. They do however, come with a large amount of bloat as they need to be designed to account for a huge variety of needs. This invariably, makes them not performance efficient for a type of app which requires specifics only.

Look at the 'Wenger Giant' Swiss army knife; it undoubtedly does more than 99% of other Swiss army knives but that doesn't make it better for all of those tasks in isolation. If you just want a few of the things it can provide, you're better off buying a smaller product for ease of use (i.e. 2d game, get gamemaker) or individual bespoke tools (rolling your own engine).

​

Could Unreal or Unity do all of what I needed? Kind of. Do the needs of my project align with what they provide as a primary performance focus? Well their main strength is to work with apps which need to pre-load assets and have them display beautifully in a scene. If you need that, use them, they're perfect.

They can do large scale areas but they're not focused for that so it's a bit of a deficit if you try to force them this way too, hence why I think so many open-world games use others/their own engine. You can still get decent results though. It's when you look at that 'pre-load and display' main service they provide and realise that's not what you need at all, then a custom engine might be the best way forward.

​

For me, needing large areas, focused heavily on particle systems which drive movement, all procedural during runtime, as well as real-time generating skyboxes, using weird compute shader texture update logic per-frame etc etc. Basically very little of what I need aligns with their main goals so using Unreal/Unity would have meant a more limited product overall as none of these things are exactly what those engines are focused on.

In my example, my engine can be tailored to accommodate what I need specifically, instead of battling to override what they're really built to provide, meaning much faster performance. Also, if there is a bug, I know it's caused by something I've done instead of being hidden away in the engine.

​

It's slower to make your own engine (Probably took me about a year to get mine right) but the ability to focus it makes it so much better for certain circumstances.

This is my first EDC post, hope you all enjoy

1. Samsung Galaxy S5, Black 16GB
   
2. Samsung earbuds
   
3. My Knives that I rotate every now and then.
   Kershaw 1830 OSO Sweet Pocket Knife
   Kershaw 1304BW blackwash: this came in the kershaw walmart gift set (2015)
   
4. My flashlights that I rotate as well
   Streamlight 66318 MicroStream C4 LED Pen Flashlight
   ThorFire PF01 Tactical LED Flashlight Pen Light
   
5. My Watches
   Pebble Smartwatch Black I wear this one the most, as I love being able to control my music with it
   Invicta Signature model 7376 This is my Fancy watch. I bought it on a cruise a couple years ago, I only wear it for special occasions.
   
6. Kindle PaperWhite 5th gen I’ve been reading lots of programing books lately
   
7. Victorinox Swiss Army Huntsman with Free Pouch
   
8. Quick Info Cards with wake turbulence separation, and mandatory advisories, handed out by my Air traffic Control Professor. I’m a ATC Major.
   
9. Kershaw keychain tool, Also included in in the kershaw walmart gift set (2015)
   
10. 8gb Key flash drive
    
11. Sony VAIO® E Series Laptop Model # SVE14A27CXH, great laptop I grabbed before college. Has a I7 and 8gb of Ram. Good for games and school work.
    
12. Mophie Juice Pack Charger I love this thing, I waste so much battery browsing Reddit on my phone when I have free time in-between classes or when I have down time at work.
    
13. Handmade wallet from Dollywood, theme park, TN. Not shown in the Picture
    That’s it.
    

Check your local laws on knife size. A lot of states and even some municipalities ban blades over 3 inches for carrying around concealed in your jeans pocket.

I sub to /r/knives and yeah, it is a scary part of the hivemind a lot of the time. Baseless brand loyalty and inane comments daily I'm not really sure about the fetish for wrapping knives they have at the moment. I personally carry a Benchmade on my person daily. Its a utility knife and I am not afraid to beat it up. The shape is good for a variety of tasks I encounter on a daily basis, box cutting, rope cutting, cutting fruit, punching through drywall when running cables, opening things, and the handle subs as a nice bottle opener.

Find a knife that you like the blade shape for your general applications and that fits well in your hand. As far as steel goes, you will want stainless for low maintenance. Carbon steels are great but upkeep on a daily carry can get rough. There are many locking technologies but you want to be sure you get a good one as having a folder collapse on your hand is not a fun thought. I personally like a lot that Spyderco offers, as well as Kershaw. Benchmades Axis lock inspires confidence that the blade wont snap out of place. I had to downsize from a Kershaw I was using when my state passed a law banning knives over 3 inches long or with assisted opening. You really cant go wrong with Spyder, benchmade, or Kershaw. They all are built to last and while there are other better/higher priced knives, generally those are not suited to a DIY utility purpose.

A couple of suggestions before I leave...

Kershaw Blur-Good Value

Benchmade Rift-Axis Lock/Tough

Finding your perfect pocket knife can be as hard or as easy as you like. I see no reason you cant go to Gander Mountain/Cabelas and find one that suits you right. If money is no object like you say, try a few knives out. You wont know until you feel it in your hand.

There's a lot of ways to approach stenciling. I just started about 5 months ago and have a decent number of pieces completed, but i'm still learning each time I cut and paint.

I'll be happy to share a list of what I use, but just keep an open mind and remember that there's not just a single way to do this.

[] Materials []

• I use #11 blades [Link]
  
• I alternate between these two knives [[link]
  (https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Designer-Hobby-Craft-X3254/dp/B002A2QTGK/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1501185899&sr=8-22&keywords=xacto+11+knife)] [link]
  
• Painters tape [Link]
  
• Spray Mount (Not spray adhesive - I just learned this last week) [link]
  
• 110lb cardstock paper
  
• Clear scotch tape
  
  
• As for paint I just started using Montana, which is a nice-to-have but definitely not necessary. I did a lot of my first pieces with Rusto - in general just stay away from gloss, super gloss, high gloss (it can work, but in general you will have an easier time with flat/mattes.) I went through a lot of trial and error with paint - I bought some Krylon paint which was at a higher price point and it was absolute shit (very watery and runny no matter how long I shook my cans.)
  
  
  [] General Tips []
  
  
• Making your stencils is definitely a part where people's methods differ (specifically in photoshop and breaking up your layers.) Just search YouTube and find a method that works with you.
  
  
• For larger pieces I use rasterbator. Stich them together with clear scotch tape and cut as usual. I tape both sides of the seams/edges.
  
  
• Take your time with your cuts
  
• Make sure your workspace is clean
  
• Let your layers dry
  
• Make sure your stencils are laying flat
  
• shake the shit outta your cans (especially with cheaper paint.) When you think you've shaken enough, shake for another 60 seconds.
  
• Mind the distance between your cans and the canvas (or whatever medium you're painting on)
  
• Take it easy on the paint, you don't need much to create a solid layer.
  
  
  Hope this is helpful, remember to share your pieces!

So I'll give you a link to a list that you may find useful for checking all the boxes on what you may need. I'll post my opinions below on some of the stuff I have found is most important. (I went through this process about 2-3 months ago)

http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/32

I LOVE this hobby knife Very important for removing mold lines, cutting off flash, etc. Very important to get one that starts and stays sharp

Primer is incredibly important. You want to make a suitable surface for your paint to adhere to. I would also look up some articles about how to prime. Contrary to popular belief you don't want the entire model to be the color of your prime when you are done! You want it to look almost speckled and have about 80% coverage.

Paint Here is a decent starter box of citadel paint, with a box and some 1/2 decent brushes. Obviously this is a bit pricey, but you get 45 paints plus some helpful extras

Brush Cleaner VITALLY important. Keeps paint out of the ferrule and helps your brushes stay conditioned and pointed

Brushes I just got a Winsor and Newton Series 7 #00, #1 and #2....WOW the difference between these and synthetic brushes is night and day. Painting tasks that seemed to take forever or require too much of a steady hand are MUCH easier now

Dull Cote Matte Spray Essential for providing a matte finish and protection to be able to actually use your minis. This product is excellent for that

Obviously there are many more items that are important to have that are described in more detail in that link I provided. But the ones above are the ones I would consider most essential

Yes, carbon usually has a much more significant edge stability. However, since you're not using it often, carbon represents quite a bit of maintenance (it will rust). Even with oil, if it's in long term storage, it tends to get small spots of rust that need to be polished off. If you use it frequently, rust usually isn't a huge issue. Long-term storage is where the rust really becomes a problem. Snow could present more issues with rust, but I haven't had to deal with that in my climate setting.

If you have a honing rod, that should fix a rolled edge better than a pull-through sharpener. But a knife is no knife at all without a properly sharpened edge.

Since it seems like you're not doing heavy woodwork...maybe a folder would be best for you.


For minimal maintenance, good edge retention, and as long as you're not doing heavy wood work, try the BRK Avispa or Zancudo (links go to Amazon). Alternatively the OKC RAT and RAT II are essentially the same knives but with different styling. I believe these are all in AUS-8 Stainless Steel and have pretty hard edges. The edge should last a while with no sharpening (use your honing rod, though). The Avispa and RAT 1 are both quite large--I think the blades are about 4 inches long. The Zancudo and RAT II have ~2.5 inch blades and are much better suited for every day carry.


Opinels are great for culinary applications, but I don't personally like them for woodworking. Great for spreading cheese, and cutting summer sausages though! I also don't entirely trust the locking mechanism. But they are super cool knives. The stainless loses its edge very quickly to rolling.

​

Do you mind me asking: what is your version of 'flashy'?

Expected but icky answer: Kershaw Skyline (two words: butter knife)

Good answer: any of a million or so inexpensive CRKT flippers with IKBS, like the odd-looking but fantastic Ikoma Carajas.

Best answer that I know of currently: save $14.89 more and buy a Kizer 3404, then thank me later.

Bonus option I've-never-tried-but-will-at-some-point: a Russian Kizlyar Supreme Biker Z

Lol, do you mean S&W? Been in the same boat myself, and those are decent knives. Dig the bigger handles, definitely more ergonomic if you have bigger hands. Higher grades of steel help, but if it's a daily, things are going to wear down regardless. Got a cheap Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener a while back that does a pretty good job of sharpening the tips when using the ceramic rod. Saw it suggested on a video for sharpening recurve blades, and it's been pretty slick. Otherwise, since my current main is more of a straight blade, have just been using a sharpening stone when rarely needed)

Been using this as my every day carry for a while now. Not as rugged, and handle could be a tad bigger, but it can get razor sharp and stay that way, doesn't corrode quickly, and once dull, sharpens super easily (Sandvik 14C28N steel, great for light to moderate usage without a ton of coarse cutting).

If I know I'm going to be cutting more abrasive things like rope, this is my backup. S30V steel doesn't hold a razor sharp edge as long (14C28N is designed to have maximized sharpness) but it's effective cutting edge lasts forever (less wear than 14C28N for abrasive cuts, but also a bit tougher to sharpen).

P.S. I promise I'm not a Kershaw rep, just found two that I've actually stuck with for a long time!

Well, ShitOnYourMom, the best way to get a start in whittling is to start. That may seem silly, but you'll need practice, and the acceptance that it will take a bit to get comfortable understanding the grain and learning to work with it. You'll need wood (I prefer green, unseasoned wood - as in directly from a living tree) and some basic tools. I'll give examples for someone on a budget, so that this will be relevant advice for anyone who may read it. Any small axe with a narrow profile and a blade you can choke up on will work. like this: http://www.knifecenter.com/item/CN4052C15/Condor-Tool-and-Knife-Woodworker-Axe-5-12-inch-Carbon-Steel-Head-American-Hickory-Handle-Leather-Sheath
I use this one (A Hans Karlsson sloyd axe):
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KoKxz2rDEAE/UfiKUo8EhhI/AAAAAAAAAK8/UMz87UUUEII/s1600/axe2.jpeg
And you'll need a knife or two. I suggest a Mora 120 or 106. The difference is the 106 has a longer blade. The longer blade allows you to take longer continuous cuts, while the shorter allows you to choke up and get finer detail work. Example: http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Carving-Knife-Laminated-1-9-Inch/dp/B004GATX62/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396873922&sr=8-2&keywords=mora+carving
I suggest the Mora knives because they're quite decent for the money.
You'll also want a hook knife if you'll be making spoons, cups, etc. You want to make sure you go quality on this one. A poorly designed and executed hook knife is unpleasant and ineffective to use.
I have one of these, and I enjoy it very much: http://www.deepwoodsventures.com/301spooncarver.html
Lastly, you'll need something for sharpening. I just went the route of buying decent tools that arrived razor sharp, and then used a leather strop to keep them sharp. Like this: http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/8-Leather-Bench-Strop-P263C11.aspx
The strop should have some honing compound rubbed on it. I use jeweler's rouge. You can easily make a strop from some tanned leather. Now that I've listed all of that, you just need some inspiration, some knowledge, and some patience. You can find the first two of these in this giant list:

Good luck, and feel free to PM me or post more questions. The reason I share photos of my work (and the work in person) is to inspire others to pursue crafts. The world needs as much art and craft as possible.
-Adam

The Mora carving knife is an absolute classic and works wonderfully. It's not the prettiest thing but it really works.

I do a lot of carving and frequently use:

Basically any Mora (the red, wood handled classic is a great option too)

Helle: Odel (not a traditional carver but I love using it)

Kellam: Puukko

Enzo: Trapper (a bit beefier than a usual carving knife choice but works quite well)

Bark River: Bravo EDC (again not a traditional option but I really love carving with this thing)

A small Ahti puukko

A small and medium Wood Jewel puukko


Another idea that might be fun is get him a couple of the small Lauri puukko blades and he can carve his own handle, drill a hole and epoxy it on. Just a thought. The Lauri blades are wildly affordable and the smaller thinner ones make amazing little carving knives.

What do you use the Skeletool most for?

If you use the knife on it constantly and daily, then yeah, get a good knife. If the stuff that you do cut makes you nervous with the Skeletool then definitely get a dedicated knife.

If you use the bit driver or pliers on the Skeletool the most then you probably don't need to carry a dedicated knife.

Give the Sage 5 a good look as well if you are considering the Para3. I'd also strongly recommend finding a Spyderco/Benchmade/Zero Tolerance dealer and fondling a bunch of knives before making a decision on which knife to buy.

If you have never carried a dedicated knife before it would be a good idea to buy a cheaper knife or two before spending $100+ on a knife.

Could try something like the Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara 2:
https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Cara2-Lightweight-black-PlainEdge/dp/B0049AYJP4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1499523866&sr=1-1&keywords=Byrd+Cara+Cara2

The Ontario Rat I/II
https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-Knife-Sp-Black-Folding-7Inches/dp/B00BBPAOCW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499523684&sr=8-2&keywords=ontario+rat+2

https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499523956&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ontario+rat+1&psc=1

Kershaw Cryo
https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1555TI-SpeedSafe-Folding-Knife/dp/B0074FI28Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499523664&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+cryo

CRKT Squid
https://www.amazon.com/Columbia-River-Knife-Tool-Folding/dp/B00TFY39EQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499524020&sr=1-1&keywords=crkt+squid

Try some under $30 knives, pick one that looks like something you would like to carry, and pick something that is dang near the polar opposite. It will let you know what you like in a knife much cheaper. Differences in blade size, blade shape, handle shape and how they are used might change your opinion on what you think you need in a knife after using a dedicated knife for awhile. After that you can make a truly informed decision on a high-end knife.

[Image One]

This is an overall picture of what I carry in my backpack every day (non-work days as well)

The only item I don't get a close up on in this picture is my ranger-roll of an extra shirt, boxers, and pair of socks.

[Image two]

1. Deodorant - there are too many times where I forget to apply in my morning daze and realize once I'm in my car.
   
2. Deck of playing cards. In case the power goes out and I need some entertainment.
   
3. Uni Pipe-Shift Mechanical Pencil .07
   
4. Pilot Metropolitan Mechanical Pencil .05 I like to have both for sketching, the thicker lead helps with shading.
   
5. Pilot Metropolitan Fountain Pen, Fine Nib
   
6. Lucky Turtle, Also my Inception Totem :)
   
7. 128 GB Flash Drive - yes, it's real
   
8. Eraser - cuz art
   
9. Secret Santa Gift - Pen Twirling Pen I like to have things to fiddle with at my desk
   
10. Pocket Sized Moleskin Notebook that I write poetry in
    
11. Refillable Ink in case my fountain pen runs out and I don't have my ink bottle near
    
    [Image Three]
    
    
12. Razer Naga Epic
    
13. Old PSP case I use to store my mouse in
    
14. Travel Toothbrush
    
15. Kindle Paperwhite in a Faux Leather Case
    
16. Precision Screwdriver Set I bought at Radioshack
    
17. Laptop charger
    
18. USB Wall Charger
    
19. Mini USB Cables
    
    [Image Four]
    
    
20. Generic Sketchbook I bought at CVS - When work is slow and I get an idea, I draw it. Usually I tend to just free-hand copy images from the internet
    
    [Image Five]
    
    
21. My Personal Laptop Lenovo T440p that I got last year, this thing is a damn beast
    
22. Can of RedBull - I don't always need wings but sometimes when work is slow I start to fall asleep and this is needed
    
23. Filtered Water Bottle - Even IT Desk Monkeys need to drink sometimes
    
    [Image Six]
    
    This is my in pocket EDC, these things never leave my side
    
    Not Shown is my CellPhone which I used to take the pictured. It's a Droid DNA.
    
    
24. Razer Nabu SmartBand - Talks with my phone via bluetooth and will give me all my notifications on the mini screen as well as do the kind of generic fitness tracking that most fit bands do
    
25. Leather Wallet - Cash Money Yo
    
26. Pilot Metropolitan Gel Roller Pen - By now you've seen that I have three different Pilot Metropolitans. I love the feel of this pen and each version (fountain, gel roller, mechanical) I have in a different color to easily tell which one I am grabbing
    
27. Kershaw Cryo II - Best EDC Knife I've ever owned. I love the feel, look, and weight.
    
28. Car Key
    
29. 32 GB Flash Drive, This has my emergency geek tools on there as well as a few emulators, roms and minecraft (it stores all data on the drive)
    
30. House Keys.
    
    [Image Seven]
    
    This is my backpack with everything inside, it's a Northface Surge. They don't produce or sell these anymore. I got it about 6 years ago and it shows very little wear.

If you're spending $100, most well known brands will be sharp and strong. The rest depends on taste and preference. But a few options

• Benchmade mini griptilian, the axis lock is bomb proof. 154cm (the steel) is pretty good for that price range.
  
  
• Cold Steel mini recon
  Triad lock is really tough, CTS-XHP is a great steel. Cold Steel knives always come razor sharp, and are known for being indestructible.
  
  
• Cold Steel rajah III, BD1, bit softer steel but still a good blade.
  
  
• Ontario rat 1, a lot cheaper but hey, why not buy 2? Softer steel, but easy to sharpen. Tough knife on a budget.
  
  
• Kershaw Blur Has assisted opening, decent steel. But your paying more because of the opening mechanism
  
  
• Kershaw scallion. All metal knife, assisted opening. 420HC is pretty tough.
  
  
• Gerber 06 fast Assisted opening. I'm not the biggest fan of 7cr17mov. The knife is strong though.
  
  
  And most likely every person reading this will have another knife to recommend. It's a lot about personal preference. What look do you like, what lock do you like.
  
  edit; Thanks kind stranger for the gold!

For day to day stuff, I think a folding knife is more than enough. Multitools are heavy and I wouldn't want to have to lug it around all day on my belt or in my pocket.

As far as recommendations go, you can buy a very nice folding knife for under 50. A lot of people here are going to recommend Spyderco knives, but keep in mind that they are much bigger than other folders in terms of height. (To be more clear, they are not heavier than other knives or necessarily have a longer or thicker blade or handle, but the blades are very wide and that translates to it taking much more room in your pocket.)

I would reccomend a Buck Nobleman. It is nothing fancy, but it has a nice wide blade, comes sharp, has a sturdy liner lock, and a good clip. You can remove the clip is you want. In my opinion, it is the best knife you can buy for 20 bucks.

I can also recommend the Kershaw Leek (this is an assisted opening knife, so research whether or not that is something you'd like) and the Kershaw Skyline.

If you want to spend a little more on a knife that will likely last you forever, from a company that has great customer service, I can recommend a Benchmade Mini-Griptilian.

there's some good stuff in there.


I'd like to add a couple that aren't so well known.

You can actually heat up the plastic water bottles it mentions right on your campfire coals... it's not going to melt, surprisingly.

video


also for clothing, I like they mentioned wool -- really great even if it gets wet... but they didn't mention layers. This is important. You don't want to sweat when it's cold out, so if you're active you gotta shed some layers.


also use your spare grocery bags from home to wrap everything up in, especially clothes... just in case things get wet.


oh and silicone spray is great for water repellent, be it your jacket, boots or tent. Don't buy the "special water repellent stuff", it's just silicone spray. You'll save a couple bucks.


As far as hatchets/knives... you don't need anything big. You might think you do but you really don't. I would recommend a good brand like Benchmade or Kershaw. A regular pocket knife like that is gonna do all you need -- just don't use it as a prybar please.



oh and hobo stoves are pretty cool.

so is a rocket stove -- though the one here is kinda elaborate -- you can dig a hole in the ground and accomplish the same thing you just need the basic shape, airflow. really low fuel and insane concentrated heat from them.


oh and a hoopy frood always knows where his towel's at.

A couple thoughts:


A lifetime membership to NESA wouldn't be a bad idea - not cheap, but a meaningful gift.


Northwest Territorial Mint makes Eagle Scout Coins - I'm not personally into them, but many people are.


A walking staff with an eagle medallion might be a cool gift.


A really nice compass (you know, "to guide your way" etc, etc.) could be meaningful and useful.


You could get him a cool knife (I recently purchased this one) and have it engraved in some meaningful way. I'm personally more into the Spyderco line of knives, but the Kershaw is more cost-effective.


Also know that a gift is not expected - if you're invited to his Court of Honor, the only thing requested is your presence.

I don't personally own one, but I've often seen the Kershaw Leek recommended as a good budget EDC knife.

If you're getting a separate knife anyway, you might choose a Leatherman without a knife, like the Style PS, so that you can take it with you when you travel for summers/breaks.

Other items to consider:

1. Bandanas: super useful to wipe sweat, blow your nose, clean something up, etc. You can get some cheap ones on Amazon and they weigh nothing, so they're easy to carry around.
   
   
2. Water bottle: I like the Smart Water water bottles, so I bought one in a vending machine and just keep refilling it from water fountains.
   
   
3. Power bank: if it's not convenient to go back to your dorm in between classes/meals, you might want to get a power bank to recharge your phone/tablet/laptop. You can just bring the charging cable, but you may not always have access to a plug.
   
   
4. Flashlight: There's a long list of suggestions in the Frequently Recommended Gear list on the right. Flashlights are just randomly useful a lot.

Every job I've had has been blue collar, or at least a mix of field and office work. Currently, I'm a woodworker, so I'm sure you can imagine how often things like splinters are a thing. I first started carrying the emergency knife when I worked at a climbing wall. It was there to cut a harness or potentially even a rope in the event of extreme emergency, but it was/is also good to have in case of a car accident or something (window breaker and seat belt cutter). I'm thankful that I've never had to use it. And that's what a lot of my gear is for. Things I want to have ready to use, while hoping I never do.

Emergency knife This isn't the one I actually have, but it's similar enough. You can find this same design in a multitude of places, at all different price points.

Normal use I also have a cheap little $6 Ozark Trail one that I've used for around 12 years or so. Long as you care for your knife, it will last and serve you well. You don't have to have a top-of-the-line one. I do greatly prefer the single-hand operation ones, though. They have the little pin near the base of the blade so that you can just slide it open with your thumb. And I usually prefer the liner lock, which allows you to unlock the blade with your thumb, and close it with your forefinger. With enough regular use, it all becomes one swift motion that you don't even think about

Swiss army knife I was gifted mine and likely wouldn't have bought it on my own, but I found myself very appreciative of it and think it's worth the money. If mine gets lost, broken, or whatever, I'll likely buy a replacement.

Bonus! Gerber multitool This has been on my key ring for 6 years. I use it almost daily, and think it is probably one of the best EDC purchases I have ever made.

So for shelter, I'd suggest this tarp. I also suggest checking out the forum that the tarp is from (www.bushcraftusa.com) because it's a forum all about bushcraft but has sub forums in ultralight and backpacking. The tarp is https://bushcraftoutfitters.com/coyote-tarp-10x10/ which is priced at $67. The reason I suggest this is because this tarp specifically, there's lots of way's to set it up. Check out this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxtHJm51NPY&t=


So for cooking, it's pretty simple. This video will show you what most bushcrafters use and the links that follow are the two items. I use it myself and in fact have two sets because of how much I enjoy it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00gwQ4z_nQQ&t and the following links for the items. https://www.walmart.com/search/?query=Ozark%20Trail%2018-Ounce%20Stainless%20Steel%20Cup
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-Adventure-Camp-Cook-Set/16784406
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trail-9-5-Round-Frying-Pan/49332895


Hammocks are over rated, sleeping pads are a mess to figure out, get a cot. In fact, get this cot. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Outdoor-Super-Ultralight-Portable-Folding-Aluminium-alloy-Cot-Camping-Tent-Bed/112355265955?hash=item1a28e54da3:g:-PUAAOSwTM5Y365i:rk:2:pf:


And now you need a knife, saw, and hatchet right? Well let's tackle all three.
https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Stainless-4-1-Inch-Military/dp/B004ZAIXSC?ref_=w_bl_hsx_s_sp_web_6501052011
https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-396-LAP-Laplander-Folding-Inch/dp/B0001IX7OW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540606867&sr=8-1&keywords=Bacho+Laplander
https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-X7-Hatchet-Inch-378501-1002/dp/B0002YTO7E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540607032&sr=8-2&keywords=Fiskars+X7+Hatchet+14+Inch%2C+378501-1002
And as a added bonus here's a fire steel.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-x-2-5-Drilled-Ferrocerium-Ferro-Rod-Steel-Flint-Fire-Starter-w-Lanyard-Hole/131485475489?hash=item1e9d2522a1:rk:4:pf:


And finally to end it all, we have a sleeping bag. This one is well known in the world. Kelty Cosmic 20 Degree. It's a dry down bag which means it's made of down that can handle some moisture but still keep you warm. It's rated for 20 degree's. I'll post the same bag as well but is rated for 0 degrees'. It'll be more expensive but it'll let you stay warm during the winter.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kelty-Cosmic-20-Sleeping-Bag-20-Degree-Down/253894865275?epid=1152349824&hash=item3b1d50317b:m:mFpUvLXnvtZZETXdugDHwvw:rk:2:pf:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kelty-Cosmic-0-Sleeping-Bag-0-Degree-Down/253375355468?epid=28012067594&hash=item3afe591a4c:m:mCrEnOYV72CJ257e08pGR4Q:rk:2:pf:


Check the sizes of the sleeping bag before you buy.


Also a pack, this one works as two in one. Really nice for a 60L https://outdoorvitals.com/products/rhyolite-60l-lightweight-internal-frame-backpack1
________________________________________

If you do plan on doing any winter camping, I'd edit a few things. One of them is I'd get the 0 Degree sleeping bag posted. Instead of the tarp I'd get this pup tent. https://www.ebay.com/itm/USGI-Military-Issue-2-Man-Canvas-PUP-TENT-w-Poles-Stakes-Complete-VGC/392111853275?hash=item5b4bb00edb:g:JEQAAOSw~jJarA5E:rk:1:pf: Which comes with poles and stakes. I normally toss the poles and get some branches outside. I get four branches and make a bipod that I tie off on either end. That gives me more room inside the tent and less weight I have to carry on my person.


I'd still get the cot but I'd also include Thermarest Z-Lite sleeping pad to put on top of it https://www.ebay.com/itm/Therm-a-Rest-Z-Lite-Sol-Ultralight-Foam-Backpacking-Mattress/132801349129?epid=1900010560&hash=item1eeb93c609:rk:1:pf: as well as one of those super heavy duty emergency blankets. It's a reflective blanket but it's also the same thickness as some of those heat reflectors you use for a car windshield. Not those flimsy things you see "survivalists" use. Those placed on the cot, with that zero degree bag, and that shelter works amazingly. Just don't throw a heavy blanket on the sleeping bag and don't wear a lot of clothes in it either. That'll make everything for naught.
______________________________________
So with everything listed, the pack, cooking stuff, tools, cot, sleeping bag, and either the canvas shelter or tap, you'd be looking at around $560 assuming you got the 0 Degree Sleeping Bag instead of the 20 Degree. Which you really should. A 0 Degree is much better in my case.


Also if you do get a down sleeping bag, NEVER STORE IT IN THE COMPRESSED STATE!!! Always store it someplace with it out of it's bag. If you keep it compressed 24/7 until you use it, you'll destroy the down.

• ~$7-8 Sanrenmu 7010/710 - You can find these at Gearbest for cheap as hell when they have sales but they're absolutely $30 worth of knife
  
• ~$10-20 Opinel no.6-12 - Depends on blade size/steel/handle wood. #6 is under 3in blade if that kind of thing matters.
  
• ~$20 CRKT Drifter
  
• ~$20 Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara2
  
• ~$20-25 Ontario Rat II or Rat I
  
• ~$30 Victorinox Cadet Alox
  
• ~$30 Kershaw Cryo
  
• ~$35 CRKT Ripple
  
• ~$35 Spyderco Persistence
  
• ~$40 Kershaw Skyline - Often on sale in the ~$30 range
  
• ~$40 Kershaw Leek - Same sales as with the Skyline \^^
  
  Honorable Mention: Case knives. Traditional lockbacks. Hard as nails and pretty to boot. True pocket knives. Your grandfather (possibly great grandfather) had one. Good stuff the lot of them. $25-50 will get you a legacy knife that you can carry and use and then pass to your kid.
  
  You don't need to spend $200 to get a quality, durable, reliable knife. I've owned all of these knives at one time or another and loved every one of them. Sure they needed sharpening more often and sometimes something a little more drastic (Sanrenmus are often cheaper to replace than fix) but the value is insane. Plus, lets face facts; we're much more likely to break out our Cadet when we get box duty than our Sebenza.
  
  Knife enthusiasts (brothers) if there's a weighed and measured cheapo that I forgot, let me know.

Well since this post, I've actually done a good amount of research and narrowed it down to pretty much two options:

The Cryo II because of the deep carry clip, good size, speed safe, and reputation


or

The Volt II for its awesome blade shape, tons of features, good comfortable grip, and pretty much perfection. I'm kind of in love with the Volt II. It's just so thick.. It would be my dream EDC knife if it had a grip like the Kershaw Chill with its G-10, diamond pattern handle and thinness. So, idk. I'll probably end up going with the Volt II, I just with the grip were G-10 and more EDC oriented

Let's see...

http://www.fedtacticaldirect.com/Kershaw-Camp-10-1077_p_49809.html

Kershaw Camp. Great kukri style blade on a budget that performs excellently.

http://www.bladehq.com/item--Kershaw-Cryo-Spring-Assisted--11101

Kershaw Cryo. Hinderer design for a cheap price! Small blade, but feels big in the hand. The Cryo 2, the larger version, will be coming out soon.

http://www.amazon.com/Mora-Made-in-Sweden-511/dp/B004GAVOUU/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1372063610&sr=1-2&keywords=mora

http://www.amazon.com/Mora-Companion-Heavy-Duty-Knife/dp/B009NZVZ3E/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1372063610&sr=1-3&keywords=mora

Moras. 1095 carbon steel, strong and used to do a lot of good things in the woods. Very tough, very sharp, very cheap.

At higher prices, the BK2

http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Becker-BK7-Combat-Utility/dp/B001IPMG8K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1372063915&sr=8-2&keywords=bk2

http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Becker-BK2-Campanion-Fixed/dp/B001N1DPDE


And of course, the tried and true classic Kabar

http://www.bladehq.com/item--Ka-Bar-Short-USA-FightingUtility--16358

A few to get you started, though, with knives, you generally get what you pay for. Generally, you'll want to figure out exactly what you want in knives, especially in how you use them to find the best deals and blades.


Collecting knives is an expensive habit that ends up going into 500 dollars knives and 1k customs. ;) Budget and collecting don't mix!

I like these wet wipes a lot. They get very high marks for biodegrading/composting quickly and they're actually flushable unlike many brands of wipes.

I wouldn't overthink your first aid kit too much. Bring along some cloth medical tape, a bandanna, and some NSAIDs and you'll have enough of a kit to deal with injuries at least until you can get real medical help. If you are blister-prone one or two pieces of this paper will be plenty for your trip.

I'm not sure on the legality of this in the UK but I would also consider a small folding knife a good addition to your first aid kit.

I like to bring along a pair of sandals or something similar for camp shoes. It REALLY hurts wearing the same shoes all day.

You might also want to buy a small hand torch if you plan to make camp after dark. This is the one I just picked up.

A food bag like this would be good for snacks - I would just stuff it in the webbing above your seat pack.

Sorry for all the amazon links. Your setup looks great. Beautiful bike!

I have the Compact Milwaukee and am not a fan; the blade comes loose all the time, especially when doing things like cutting drywall or removing wire insulation. I have used the Fastback Milwaukee though with good results, it’s just a lot bigger and doesn’t feel as good in the hands. I’ve owned 1 of the Compact, 0 of the Fastback.

The Klein pocket knife looking one is garbage for doing actual work with. I’ve owned 1 of these.

I have a SOG Flash 2 w/ serrations that I love but it’s my EDC and doesn’t live in my tool bag. Super sharp and the serrations slice though sheathing like hot butter. I’ve owned 4 of these.

I have a smaller one, a skelotonized Gerber w/ Lenox blades that I love as well. That one does live in my tool bag and is used all the time. The Lenox gold blades are amazing. I’ve owned 1 of these.

Milwaukee Compact

Milwaukee Fastback

Klein Electricians Knife

Sog Flash II

Gerber EAB Lite

A lot of your criteria is pretty subjective. What's your size limit? What climate are you in?

By 'quality' metal I assume you're not a metal snob and are just looking for a metal that will not be terrible at holding an edge and will get sharp as needed. Because of this, I will keep the AUS8 and omit the 8Cr13MoV.

Rust 'proof' might happen, but you'd do better I think with a carbon steel of some kind, which will rust if not taken care of.

All that being said, here are some good suggestions to start you off.

Gotta have rust free? Spyderco Pacific Salt with H-1 steel

Spyderco Endura

Cold Steel Recon 1


Cold Steel American Lawman

Cold Steel Voyager

Kershaw Blur

Benchmade Griptilian

Ontario RAT 1 Folder

CRKT Heiho

All of these knives should be quality options with good steels that can be relatively easily concealed and opened, and fall under your price point. Their 'rust proof'ness will be directly proportional to the amount of care you give to your equipment. I have carried a Spyderco Endura with a VG10 steel blade for years and as long as I wash off the blade every once in a while (like right after you cut something acidic with it), and oil it whenever I get around to feeling like it sometimes (like whenever you start to see patina issues after the 30^th blue moon)...I do not have rust problems. YMMV

$150 is plenty of budget for a good knife. This one is just slightly over that budget but will last you the rest of your life. It's kind of my dream survival knife.

The Fallkniven F1 is very popular as well and right in your price range.

Currently I use this knife which is also very good.

If you want to go a little less expensive still, Becker makes some good ones such as the Bk16. I know the Becker doesn't look anything like "hand made", but I have the BK2- I used paint remover to take the black coating off the blade, replaced the plastic handles with micarta and stained it to look more like wood, and built a leather sheath for it. It's a beautiful knife now. Too bad it's so goddamn heavy.

You could also go with something like the Mora bushcraft. I have that one also, very decent knife.

You could even just get a regular Mora or a Condor bushlore which are even more economical options.

I registered for a bunch of gear when I got married, and it was a fantastic decision.

Where are you planning to register?

There are lots of decent items on Amazon, but there's a whole lotta crap on there, too. I got this little coffee filter from someone off our registry and it's probably in the top 5 pieces of gear I most value.

You may want to try to pick stuff that can double up, like a backpacking chair like this if you're not real concerned about weight. I got one similar, and while I haven't actually taken it backpacking, it stays in my truck and has come quite in handy.

Second for a good knife. I'm a big fan of any Columbia River Knife and Tool blades. My EDC is this guy but there are a lot of CRKT options on there.

Also, a small folding saw like this one is worth a little extra weight in my opinion. I have this same one and use it both when working on my property or out on the trail. I even carry it with me when I'm canoeing because it's just so dang handy.

Stuff like Permethrin spray, or seam sealer is also a good idea. It's cheap, which means folks will buy it for ya, and it's usable no matter what other gear you end up with.

Your intended type, volume, and roughness of use, and your sharpening willingness and skills will play a role in what knife and steel you get, though the cheaper you go, you lose some options. Do you want a folding knife or would you consider a fixed blade? Do you know how long a blade you might like? I think about 3.5" is basically "full" size in folding knives, with 3.0" being medium and particularly EDC-friendly, while smaller than that gets into mini territory. Lots of options in all sizes, plus big bigger ones. Are you a drop point guy? A reverse tanto blade shape guy? Spear point? Clip point? And do you prefer a liner lock, frame lock, axis lock, other lock? Do you prefer to open via thumb stud, front flipper, rear flipper, assisted open? Do you want plastic, rubber, G10, CF, metal, or something else on the handle? Do you want clip options for left carry, right carry, tip up, or tip down? Do you care if it's heavier? Do you need ultralight? Average weight?

Just searching Amazon for Ganzo (or Sanrenmu) will give you a bevy of cheap options, many of which look suspiciously familiar.

If you've got an extra four bucks and change and would prefer something American made and smaller, you can get the knife community's go-to recommendation for a great deal on a reliable smallish-midsize workhorse, the Ontario Rat 2. Get a ruler and imagine what you'd think of a 7 inch knife with a 4 inch handle an a 3 inch blade. Watch some review videos to get a better idea of size. A nice bonus is four-way reversible pocket clip for your choice of left/right and tip-up/tip-down carry. This cheaper version is in AUS-8 steel, which is easier to sharpen but holds an edge less well than the more expensive and harder to sharpen D2 version, which gets up closer to $40.. And at that price you could bump up to the larger Rat 1 in D2 if you wanted to for a buck or two more, though we're trying to hit $20 here. That one's got a 3.625" blade for 8.625" overall.

Anyway if you can answer some of the questions in the first paragraph, it will help people narrow things down for you and give you better recommendations. What would your ideal knife have? Fill in the blanks on fixed/folding, blade length, blade shape, handle material, open type, lock type, pocket clip preferences, and anything else like color, weight, etc.

And check out /r/Ganzo_Knives and /r/BudgetBlades for additional ideas.

First off, many of these things are intentionally cheap, because I do tend to break and/or lose things, so... Here goes.
All have Amazon links, because that was what was easiest.


Jewelry:

• Elder Scrolls Imperial symbol arrowhead necklace - I made this from scrap a while ago for a basic metal-arts class.
  
  
• Kris knife necklace - Got this at a Renaissance Fest last year, and I also like wearing it.
  
  
• UP by Jawbone (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A17IAO0) - Really great sleep tracker, plug-and-sync
  
• Fitbit Flex (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGO0Q9O) - The de-facto fitness tracker, wireless sync
  
  
• Pebble watch (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BKEQBI0) - Simple smartwatch
  
  
  Right front pocket:
  
  
• Frame-lock box cutter (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W) - Was using a frame-lock knife, to open boxes. Replaced it with this, been happy since.
  
  
• Precise V5 RT (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E6A9M8) - My favorite ball-point pen. Looking forward to the arrival of a Lamy Al-Star fountain pen.
  
  
• Zebra M301 0.5mm (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BLC7FG) - Great intro engineering pencils.
  
  
• Galaxy S5
  
  
• Chapstick
  
  
• Pentel plastic eraser (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q4HQVU) - For the larger-than-one-character mistakes.
  
  
  Left front pocket:
  
  
• 4-in-1 screwdriver (similar to http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014KMDZ0) - Thin profile screwdriver. Awesome. Clips away in a corner and you can forget about it until you need it.
  
  
• Streamlight MicroStream (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00143JZ08) - Tiny little flashlight, amazing little clip. Clip it in a corner and forget it until you need it.
  
  
• Mighty Wallet (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036FN60W) - I keep it relatively thin in contents, and it's amazingly thin by itself.
  
  
• Sennheiser CX300IIs (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EZYMF4) - Some of the best little cheap earbuds. I have over-the-ears for desk-work, but these can go with me easily.
  
  
• Yubikey Neo (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LX8KZZ8) - For my 2FA needs, both on the phone and PC. I use it with LastPass.
  
  
• Spare AAA Battery
  
  
• 12" baton (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHDLF8E) - For self defense, since I stopped carrying a knife, and it's more actually useful for defense than my old knife was anyway.
  
  
  Wallet highlights:
  
  
• Band-aids - I chew my cuticles and pick at scabs. Bad habit. Nice to have these around.
  
  
• Bottle opener - Got this as swag from a startup I used to work for.
  
• Sewing kit - For emergency mending
  
  
• Guitar picks (I like http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002D0CGC)
  
  
• Safety pins
  
  
• Handcuff key
  
  
• Handcuff shim - Nice when handcuffs aren't double-locked; sometimes easier to manipulate than the keys.
  
  
  Left back pocket:
  
  
• Field Notes graph-ruled notebook (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006CQT2KU) - reasonably durable, cheap notebooks.
  
  
  Not shown:
  
  
• Keysmart Extended key holder (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JXQQNC6) - Nice to keep my work keys from jangling around
  
  
• Car keys

The SOG Flash 1 is spring assisted. It is a kickass blade and extremely lightweight. Around $35.


Then there is the Benchmade Emissary 470. Just a brilliant, brilliant blade. Practically sexy. $160-ish though, so I'll never have one in my pocket.



I just did a huge amount of research and decided against the spring assist. I like the super fast deployment, a lot; however, I found that many knives deploy just as fast because they are made so damn well. I just picked up the Kershaw Skyline 1760 for $35 and it is awesome. Spring assists have more parts to break, and more parts mean higher manufacturing costs.


Notable mention, the Kershaw Chill for about $16 most places.


Sorry for the amazon links, they are just easy to find. Also, I am new to this game so wait for some constructive criticism from more experienced users about my recommendations. And finally check some youtube reviews, I trust nutnfancy's reviews all day.

The Ontario RAT1 might be a good choice for your first blade. It's an incredibly good knife for the price. Check out the reviews. I highly recommend it, it's a great value:
http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418727072&sr=8-1&keywords=rat1
If you want something with a cord/strap cutter feature, you might like the SOG Trident:
http://www.amazon.com/SOG-Specialty-Knives-TF22-CP-3-15-Inch/dp/B004WN59KW/ref=sr_1_44?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1418726833&sr=1-44&keywords=SOG+Knives
Kershaw is another brand you might like, there are many great models in your price range. There are other good choices out there as well. Check out the sidebar for the Knife Recommendation Guide

Sure thing! A high-carbon blade would be good to sharpen, but will dull easily and quickly. A stainless steel/HSS blade is incredibly difficult to sharpen, but will hold and edge for a bit longer.

I didn't get to look at your exact examples because I'm on mobile.

Again, I don't know anything about what's available in Turkey, but an X-Acto knife (craft knife, hobby knife, etc) has extremely sharp, cheap, replaceable blades that are amazing for beginner carving. I know you were looking for an all-in-one, but I just recommend this because I think you'd have a better experience, and here in the US you can get an x-acto knife with replacement blades for ~$3 if you buy locally. Amazon has onefor 3.82 without replacement blades. They're super nice knives because if you decide not to use them for carving (you either upgrade or decide you don't enjoy it), they still have a billion uses around the house. And since they're the size of a pen, they're easy and discrete to carry! I would mail you one if I could afford postage. :-P

For mainly camping get a Cold Steel GI Tanto on Amazon. I usually don't like tango style blades but Cold Steel's has a thick edge that's great for bushcraft while the secondary edge/tip is great for prying and other heavy duty tasks. It is 1055 carbon steel so do clean it after every use. I recommend you modify the grip to something better though, I personally use tennis over grips as they are cheap and amazing.

Or if you want something smaller for both camping and EDC I suggest a Kershaw Skyline

Oh fun! $500 is a good amount to work with. I am going to assume he has absolutely nothing as you said full kit.

This folding saw is just awesome, and on sale! I've had one for many years. About $22.

This Knife is a lot more heavy duty than the Moras people will inevitably recommend (not that there is anything wrong with them). It's also a lot more expensive. I think it would make a nice gift. Also on sale. $104.

A pot $15.

A Silnylon tarp $63.

Gotta have paracord $10

There are a lot of firesteels out there but this one was uber cheap and looks just like the one I've had for years. >$2.

I would HIGHLY recommend a small forest of Hultafors, Wetterlings, or Gransfors Bruks make. I couldn't find a good link for them on Amazon. They'll be about $150

All told that list(including and axe) is about $360 before tax and shipping) Obviously a pack to put it would top it all off and bring you pretty close to $500 mark. It's just too personal a choice and I can't begin recommend one.

What stuff if any does he have already? A blanket or sleeping bag could be a good choice. A small alcohol stove too.

Victornox makes pretty dang good knives at a great price. I would also recommend the RAT 1 as a great, incredibly solid knife. It is, however, a rather heavy duty knife, so if you are looking for something a little lighter I'd recommend browsing THIS budget knife list for one you like best.

I have the regular EAB,

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-EAB-Pocket-Knife-22-41830/dp/B0016KHW2W

The design is ultra simplistic and really attractive. I am a trim carpenter so I don't usually wear a tool belt, (I can't have tools accidentally hitting cabinets) so this knife always rides in the little pocket of my jeans without ever being felt. If I need to do excessive cutting then I will bring a larger knife but for the smaller random tasks having a knife on you all the time is necessary and this does that perfectly. Holds the blades tight with a screw and is surprisingly not bad to open one handed. It's nearly perfectly flat and looks like a luggage tag. If the practicality isn't enough for you I challenge you to find a more attractive utility knife.

If you want a knife, take a look at the Kershaw Leek it's an awesome, medium sized folder, it is a great value for what you get. Amazon puts them on sale for sub $35 sometimes, so keep an eye out for that. It also has some different colored handle scales if you want to personalize it more to your liking.

If you want something a little smaller than the Leek, you could take a look at the Spyderco Ambitious, which is also a high value knife (less so than it's $35 bigger brother the Tenacious).

If you want an even smaller blade, take a look at the Spyderco Ladybug, it sports a 1.94 inch blade, so very inconspicuous and not "scary looking" at all. It'll look even more fun if you get yellow handle scales on it. They also have a purple version.

These are just a few options for you to look at, it really is only the tip of the iceberg. These are low cost, high value for what you get, I'm recommending the lower cost knives specifically because someone who isn't into knives might not value them as much (and thus not willing to pay higher amounts of money) compared to a person who is into knives. A lot of people think "What do I need a knife for?", well buy one, carry it on your person for a month and get back to me, you will see what a useful tool it is after carrying one for a decent amount of time.

Steel pegboard with slots and holes is pretty awesome for storage. You can put shelves, bins, and hooks on it to hold just about anything, and it's easy to rearrange things when your storage needs change.

Also, tape.

• Electrical tape (assorted colors)
  
• Post-it tape
  
• Two-sided velcro tape
  
• Adhesive back velcro tape
  
  Also, if you don't have an EDC multi-tool already, the Kershaw Select-fire 1920 is pretty awesome for tech work. It's not the kind of multi-tool that has a bunch of little crappy tools. It just has 1 pretty good knife and one pretty good screw driver. Unlike most multi-tools though, the screw driver is center aligned and uses standard hex bits, four of which can be stored in the tool itself. It's been worth every penny.
  

hey man welcome to bushcrafting so far you have a pretty decent list but i'd like to give you suggestions from what I learned throughout the years.

knife- good choice for chopping and batoning but too much blade to use whittling and making small cuts. generally you want to use either large blade/small blade or axe/ small blade combos.

backpack- 65L is very overkill unless your doing 5 day+ with clothing for every day. I would suggest something in the range of 45L max.

compass- do you know the area your going to or do you really know how to use it? I know every person says to just have one just in case but if they already know their terrain or dont even know how to use the dang thing its just wasting space.

ferro rod- generally stay away from things like multi use gear. also just from my experience you want a long rod (5"+) for more surface area to generate more sparks for an easier chance to catch fire.


pillow- I would not use hammock pillows for on ground sleeping. they're extremely small and have almost no support on the count of your body is in a curling position in a hammock. I would suggest something like an inflatable pillow for you to adjust for your support and then covering it with something like a shemagh or t-shirt.


first aid- your going to get more cuts, scrapes and burns so I would buy extra of that stuff, but I would also add some quick clot just for the off chance of having a serious injury out in the field. and also some moleskin for your feet and pain relievers. and dont forget sunscreen.


now for some additions for your gear loadout.

saw and stay away from those stupid hand chainsaws


cooking vessal


cowhide gloves


Again; welcome and I hope you enjoy yourself and grow with your errors out in the field.

I really like my mora with the fire steel on the sheath. Amazon shows its for $65 now, but I think it's cheaper at times. Mine was a gift for Christmas that a buddy got me and I think it was on a great sale. Super sharp, thick enough blade for prepping fire wood and shaving kindling.

I ended up getting a tek-lok from blade tech to attach the knife to my belt more securely.

Of course the $15 moras are a super great deal too. Heck, get a thicker one for your fire wood needs and a smaller one for your carving desires.

Morakniv Bushcraft Carbon Steel Survival Knife with Fire Starter and Sheath, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFI8TOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_pdW9wbVAXQSEE

Kershaw Skyline. It's a great folder for EDC use and yet very affordable.

Super lightweight, reliable, easy to operate, ergonomical, safe to use, great blade size and form, and so cheap it's almost disposable.

A great first knife to see what you like about it and later on maybe spend more on something else.

I had an Ontario RAT-5 for a while. About the same size as an ESEE 5, but with a thinner blade and full-flat grind. The handle was uncomfortably bulky and although it held up to my abuse, I just didn't like it. The blade was thin enough to do finer carving tasks, but it was too wide and the edge profile was terrible. I ended up using my Mora knife and Fiskars hatchet more and the RAT-5 was relegated to batoning duty and even in that I preferred the hatchet. In fact, I carved my first bow drill kit with that Fiskars.

I was considering stepping up to an Ontario RAT-7, but instead I traded the RAT-5 for a KaBar Becker BK7, which is a BEAST of a knife. Longer than an ESEE 5, but just as thick and with a similar profile. It really impressed me with the amount of work it could do and how easy it was to use, but it was heavy and just too fat to do anything but chop and split, so again, I was using my Mora and hatchet for most stuff.

I finally decided to try a different direction and traded the BK7 for a much smaller ESEE 4. Around the same time I bought a Bahco Laplander, and I am in love with this combo. The Bahco eats through 1-2" branches with ease (while generating plenty of sawdust for tinder) and the ESEE is just long enough to baton them into kindling and carve up some feather sticks. The best part is, the ESEE 4 and Bahco together weigh about as much as the BK7 in its sheath, and take up about as much space, but they are FAR more versatile.

I realize the ESEE 4 may be just out of your price range, but Kabar makes a similar knife called the BK16. However, the ESEE comes with a lifetime warranty.

I still take my Fiskars with me occasionally, but for weekend camping, I can process plenty of firewood with the ESEE and Bahco faster than I ever could with any of the bigger knives. If I needed to build a shelter or was venturing into unfamiliar territory, I'd want the hatchet because it's such a capable tool.

The ESEE 5 was designed for downed pilots who can't fit a hatchet or folding saw into their kit but may need to build a shelter, so they made it big and heavy. I understand first hand that big knives are appealing and certainly have their strong points, but their size, weight and thickness can make them difficult to use in a lot of ways and in reality, a big knife will never chop as well as a decent hatchet, because the knife's weight is centered just above the handle, not directly behind a huge wedge that drives into the wood. What you really want in a survival knife is versatility and I've spent a lot of time, money and energy figuring out that size doesn't add versatility.

The Plano 5231 is where I would start. I have several that I keep mine in (my collection is rather large). The top section will accommodate all the ship tokens, the gameplay tokens and templates & obstacles. The inside will easily fit all that you have along with the dials and damage deck with plenty of room to spare. I am storing complete conversion kit cardboard and a majority of the small ships in the boxes. Adding a bunch of large ships to the collection may present an issue eventually, but you can fit a YT-1300 + another large ship without issues. The Ghost does not fit in the box unfortunately.


Edit: The prices on Amazon for the red plano are not great right now though.



The HDX interlocking series is pretty great, too. The containers lock together making it easy to add to the collection as needed and they are easy to carry. These can accommodate the bigger ships like the Ghost, too. maybe go with this. The price is good, too.

​

This answer assumes 1) you want a few knives to cover different uses and 2) you can dig in the couch cushions for $3.53 or you can wait for Amazon's prices to fluctuate just a little bit. The price on the Kershaw jumped $3 just while I am typing this up...

EDC: Kershaw Blur, $54.17. I'm a little goofy, and I like the serrated tanto even though it looks like ass. I assume for most people, they'd prefer the straight blade. I've had one for a few years, and it works great. Just the right size, comfortable grippy handle, and I love the opening mechanism.

Camping knife: Condor Tool and Knife Bushlore 4.375-Inch Drop Point Blade, $36.41. The QA on fit and finish is apparently an issue with this company, but I didn't notice any problem on mine. It's not going to win a beauty competition, but its a hard worker. One of the comments on Amazon says it's the AK-47 of the knife world. I'm inclined to agree.

Inconspicuous Folder: Opinel #8, $12.95. I don't actually own one of these, so caveat emptor, but they come highly recommended by the hive mind. It's a classy looking folder that you could carry around in your suit's jacket pocket or your briefcase.

For fixed blade if you are gonna be using the knife for hard use then I would not recommend a folder. I'm more knowledgeable on folders so someone else may find a better choice. If they don't, this is still a very solid choice, I have never had one, but I did have an izula (which is very similar).

For folder I would go with the Ontario rat, they make this is d2 blade steel which would be better and they make a smaller version (rat 2) but any version of this knife you choose will be the best for the money.

Another fixed blade that is similar to picture is this Schrade. Schrade usually isn't the best company but 1095 is definitely a cheap, good steel. With the blade thickness and steel, I would trust this knife any day.

I wouldn't limit myself to just metal handled folders, because most quality knives use metal liners with some sort of plastic scales such as G10 or FRN. They are very strong and give you a nice grip if the texturing is done right.

In that price range, and NOT a plastic handle, check out the Kershaw Blur S30V. It has Aluminum handles with grippy inserts and a sexy stonewashed S30V blade. It is on the larger side of EDC knives, but it is very thin and feels great carrying.

If you want to step outside your love of metal handles, I would recommend the following in that price range; Benchmade Mini-Griptilian(556), or regular Griptilian(551) if you want something bigger. Spyderco Delica FFG, or Endura if you want something bigger.

So, what we teach in our self defense courses as far as weapons go, is to use whatever you have like an ice pick, with a thumb over one end. You basically strike down at whatever you can (usually a hand or arm) and re-load. It's fast and noncommittal. It's strange setting it written, but you probably get the idea.

It's long, so it sticks out the end of your hand so there's something to concentrate the force you generate with your strike. It's thin because something thicker won't ride in your pocket as easy.

Plus... It's cheap. We try to advocate stuff that works, but isn't so expensive that you don't get one.

This knife from Kershaw is just about perfect, really no matter the cost. It just happens to be cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0RSVQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xfQxDbS12HD9W

It's built like a tank, and about as expensive as other knives' sheaths. LoL

Hope this stuff helps and makes sense.

The Kershaw Skyline is currently on sale for $30 from Amazon; it's usually a bit over $40.

The Skyline is an excellent knife at its regular price and even better for $30. 14C28N is easy to sharpen and holds its edge longer than other budget steels. The knife is extremely light, barely over 2 ounces. The blade geometry is excellent for cutting things (it's surprising how many knives are not), and Kershaw's warranty is one of the best in the industry.

Possibly relevant to you: its pocket clip holds it in place quite securely.

If you go up to $30-40 you can find a lot of great american made knives in that range like a Kershaw Skyline ($35), Salvo ($30), or Buck 110 Paperstone ($30) Classic ($35), Vantage Avid ($34)
BTW, a good pocket clip shouldn't be uncomfortable in your hand. None of the pocket knives I've owned have dug into my hand at all. The Buck is a nice option if you don't want a clip though.

Oh for sure! What's your price range?

For under 40$ some great options would be the Kershaw Leek , the Kershaw Cryo (the Cryo II is a bit larger for almost the same price if you prefer) or anything Kershaw really. You could also look for Sanrenmu knives, they're good for the price.

If you're really serious and you're looking for better quality, I recommend the Spyderco Delica (smaller), the Spyderco Endura (larger) or the Benchmade Griptilian (mini or full size, your choice). I own a mini Griptilian and I love it, I really recommend it if you can justify the price.

Got a blade material are you looking for? (stainless steel or carbon)

Blade profile? (drop point, tanto, spear, clip)

Blade grind? (Flat, Saber, Scandinavian, or Hollow)

Off the top of my head:

Becker BK16 - flat 1095Cro-Van

Esee Camp Lore PR-4 - Saber 1095

Esee 4P - flat 1095

Esee Izula - flat 1095

Morakniv Bush Crafter - Scandinavian 1095

Morakniv Garberg - Scandinavian 14C28N

Cold Steel Master Hunter - Flat VG1 in San Mai

​

FYI The ESEE brand has perhaps the best lifetime warranty of fixed blades. Return and they will replace with no questions asked policy. It is also transferable so they do tend to keep their value over time. Tactical Intent is a verified seller on amazon. At that price range you can get a pretty great knife.

Hope this helps!

I'll have to go with Gerber folding utility knife, this small as possible kind:

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-31-000345-E-A-B-Pocket-Knife/dp/B002RILCLY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_23

The one I have is slightly different with G10 handle, but they don't make it anymore... but I don't think it matters. Couple nice things about this: It is just so small/light and the clip works very well. I can kinda put it near the top of my pocket and I never know its there. And more importantly it takes normal razor blades, so I can buy a 50 pack and every other week or so put in a new blade. This is a huge both because I always have a super sharp blade that makes cutting thing so enjoyable, and because unlike having a fancy knife, I don't worry about treating the blade like crap. I don't care if it dulls. I've got some nice knives and used to carry one all the time but I was so careful with them.

The items I can think of right now that I've bought pretty much because of this subreddit:

1. Zojirushi Travel mug - I use this as my office coffee mug. I fill it up in the morning and if I get sidetracked then it's still hot hours later.
   
   
2. Saddleback Pocket ID Wallet - simple and gets the job done
   
   
3. Weber One-Touch Gold Charcoal Grill - I love this grill.
   
   
4. Red Wing Iron Ranger 8111 (amber color) - the first 3 weeks I thought I made a huge mistake but now they are the most comfortable shoes I've ever owned.
   
   
5. Fisher Space Pen - I've had to stop other people from pocketing it. My wife tried to take it because she likes the way it writes.
   
   
6. [Kershaw Skyline Knife] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CZBDF8) - I'm not into putting a lot of money into a pocketknife so this fits the bill nicely.
   
   
7. ToiletTree Heavy Duty Nose and Facial Hair Trimmer - my previous nose trimmers felt like it was ripping the hair out by the root. This one I don't feel anything and it's very well made
   
   All of these I would buy again.

I'm not from California, but here are a few things you should bring:

-Warm clothes, extra clothes and at least 3-4 pairs of thick boot socks that has a wool mixture.

-Good boots.

-Gloves

-Wool cap

-Sun cap

-sunglasses

-Cutting tool (depends a lot on the environment you're in, but for the Cali desert, I think a knife is enough. Here's a good, sharp, affordable and safe knife: http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Craftline-Allround-Utility-3-8-Inch/dp/B004GAVOUU/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1395556620&sr=8-8&keywords=morakniv)

-At least 3 different ways of making fire (storm proof matches, lighter, firesteel, magnifying lens, etc)

-Rope and cordage

-Water bottles and different ways to catch, store and purifying the water. Also, bring enough water if you're heading into a dry area.

-Shovel (very handy).

-Navigation: map & compass in ADDITION to any eventual digital navigation system.

-Cooking pot to kill germs in water, making tea, etc.

-Sleeping pad so you don't sleep on the bare ground because that will suck the heat out of you.

-Sleeping bag / thick wool blanket.

-Shelter.

-First aid kit with bandages and compresses.

-Enough food.

-Different tools to gather and catch food.

-Flares, signal mirror and other signal devices.

-Remember to have a good backpack that doesn't destroy your back.

-Cell phone and eventual solar cell charger.

And remember to tell friend or family exactly WHERE you're heading at and WHEN you are coming back. Try to give them updates on your position at least once or twice a day with your cell phone so Search and Rescue know roughly where you are.

You can also put a note about where you're going and when you're expecting to come back under your car's windshield wiper.

Edit: and before you go, try to learn to use your gear and try to gather basic survival knowledge.

Edit 2: Try to wear colors that stands out from the Cali desert so you are visible.

Edit 3: Always stay together as a group! Do NOT split up unless you absolutelly have to.

Edit 4: Mark where you're going so Search and Rescue can track you. You can lay rocks on the ground to form arrows to indicate the direction you're heading, tie pieces of fabric on branches, etc.

I love my small forest axe. Best survival purchase i've made. I wouldn't stray from that idea, unless you decide to refurbish an antique hatchet. I've seen people fix up sixty year old plumb scout hatchets to gransfors quality.

For knives, i use my moraknive survival and the condor bushlore. The bushlore a hardy-ass knife and it's only about thirty bucks. I use the mora regularly. That particular one is what i have, i picked it up based on the thickness of the blade, but they have far cheaper ones if you don't want to throw down that much. I believe you can get an almost identicle knife without the firesteel for around 15 bucks cheaper.
Good Review on the bushlore

Machete-wise, i love my Condor Parang. It's giant, it sharpens well, it holds an edge, and it's tough as nails. The thing is 1/4 inch thick. It's big. It also comes with a sexy leather sheath of equally high quality and durability.
I've also played around with the full size bear grylls Parang by gerber. Thing cuts like you wouldn't believe, with great weight length and balance. I use the condor, my survival bud uses the gerber. They're about equal in different ways.

One of my older comments about somem tools here: some links might be dead but you can search for a similar listing online

Chisels: Aiskaer White Steel 3mm 1/2/4/6 Prong DIY Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set Leather Craft Kits(3mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549STU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CRaSBbK7CG7MJ

Burnisher: YazyCraft Multi-Size Wood Slicker Leather Leathercraft Solid Wood Round Burnishing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZAV998/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aSaSBbMVYTCE1

Exacto knife: X-ACTO #1 Knife, Z Series With Safety Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PSaSBbF4PTFBC

Edger: Kinee 7 in 1 Pro Stitching Groover and Creasing Edge Beveler,DIY Leathercraft Sets,sew & Crease Leather,Wood & Steel Hand Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073F6WCBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GTaSBbESQHWPV

Glue:Fiebing's Leathercraft Cement, 4 oz - High Strength Bond for Leather Projects and More - Non-toxic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003W0GFTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-TaSBbWHMVA13

Thread: Rugjut 8 Roll 8 Colors 150D Leather Sewing Waxed Thread Cords,0.8mm,Each of 33 Yards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN8JMQ1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aVaSBbM0KJ3E7

Total: my math says around 35 +-3$ which is not bad considering you will definitely need these tools. And needles of course which can be which ever as long as they are dull and not too sharp pointed. I use John James needles in the smallest size but they have many sizes for larger projects as well!

Ontario RAT 1 - great knife with great reviews: full 5 stars on 149 reviews.

I just bought one myself and am very impressed with it. Rock solid with great blade steel (AUS 8) with a Rockwell C hardness around 56.

I am using 4mm (nearly 1/4 inch) foamboard purchased from my local Dollar Tree. The foamcore from places like Office Depot is expensive enough that we'd be better served by just buying laser-cut MDF terrain. If I'm looking to experiment, then the "cheap stuff" is more than sufficient, and I honestly can barely tell the difference once the terrain is assembled.

As far as tools go, I am only using a metal straight edge, and a hobby knife. For a while, I was also using a tiny t-square, but I'll be damned if the factory cut edges weren't straighter than what I was getting from the tool. In hind sight, I should have bought on of these.

Getting the lines straight is a beast of a different stripe. That is patience put into practice. Try to draw out as much of the feature as possible so you can take your time with the cuts. Using the metal straight edge as a guide, I drag the knife just over the cut to break the first layer of paper over the foamcore so that the shown edge is as straight and clean as possible. It's super important to use a decently fresh blade. You know you're doing it right when the drawn line looks like it's being erased by the knife; it looks so weird! Once I've made the first cut, I'll line up the second. This cut is for the actual foam of the foamcore. For this cut, the central focus is keeping the blade as straight up-and-down as possible. I do this to ensure that the actual meat of the cut looks as perpendicular as possible to the surface of the material. The third and last cut is for the for the bottom layer of paper. Ultimately it's three cuts per edge, and it's time consuming, but you can't argue with results.

I hope I've answered your questions. If you have any more, please feel free to ask.

For those interested;

• Fenix E05
  
• Leatherman Squirt(pliers version)
  
• Spyderco Tenacious
  
• Paracord keychain
  
  Got everything for about $100. I really love the Leatherman, who knew something so small could have such great quality standards, it feels so solid. The Fenix is crazy small and light, couldn't believe it. Finally the Tenacious is a great knife for under $50, also great build quality and man is the clip tight, that thing isn't going anywhere.

I think the kershaw blur is one of their greatest knives, I love it, it's sturdy and thick. I think it fits and feels great in the hand as well. The only downside is that it is very rust prone. If you want to get a Blur with better steel, you could get the S30V on Amazon.

As I am sure you have discovered, there are lots of opinions out there for what constitutes "the best general purpose camping knife".

Quite honestly, almost any type of blade can be used for most camping chores, including a simple razor blade...

But you aren't just looking for a razor blade...you are looking for a knife that looks "outdoorsy" or "tactical" that can stand up to harsh treatment that you could maul a bear with if necessary.

So, my advice is to go to an outdoor store that specializes in camping, hunting or fishing (not a walmart). Pick up some of the knives behind the glass. See if they feel good in your hand. Does it seem sturdy to you? Ask yourself if you are willing to carry it all day in your pocket while camping or hiking. Is it sharp? Is it in your price range?

Then, don't buy it. Do some more research on a website like bladeforums.com. Read what the knife nuts are carrying into the woods with them. Learn that people are obsessed with the actual shape of a blade and the steel that it is made from (stainless vs carbon, powdered super steels vs 440C, plain blade or serrated). Watch videos on durability and cutting.

Then have an epiphany that you don't really just want a camping knife...you want an every day carry knife that you can use while camping or at work or where ever.

Then, buy the knife of your dreams on Amazon or a reputable website.

Edit: I EDC a Kershaw Blur Knife with a plain non-serrated S30V Steel blade.

Are these what you're referring to - [Ontario Rat](https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=pd_bxgy_200_img_2? amd the ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8CAA01P0370Z040V1D22) and the Rat 2?

I would like a partially serrated blade but this looks great and have awesome reviews. Do you own on of the RATs and if so do they hold up pretty well?

Now I just need to find a good sharpening setup besides my 4 stone sets.

thanks in advance.

here is a link to the bush crafter https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Bushcraft-Carbon-Survival-Starter/dp/B00BFI8TOA

It seems like it should suite my needs well in terms of shape and size. I have one in stainless now that I like. I was looking at blanks and found that you can get a morakniv blank that I could work with, but I'm liking the interest that damascus provides. I'm not really sure what the pros and cons of the material might be for camping and bushcrafting, but I do think it would look cool. I'm thinking I'd do a wooden handle possibly with some brass guards if I'm feeling ambitious.

I use one of these. Super lightweight, small, and uses replaceable blades. It's hardly the best looking knife out there, and I'm considering getting an Opinel, but the EAB is a simple, decent looking, highly effective utility knife. Certain perks to using a utility knife over a "normal" knife: easy to clean, cheap to replace blades, small profile.

First I'll answer your last question, no, there is nothing wrong with not painting or going all out on a model. Like you said, you have only been at this for a few months and it is always best to start small. If you keep at it, who knows, months down the road you may be making your own custom models. That being said, lets see what I can suggest for getting the best out of your model without putting a ton of time (or money) into it. The first few things I would pick up are:

• A hobby knife for getting off the remaining nub, and cutting decals.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Cap/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1451350392&sr=8-4&keywords=hobby+knife
  
  
• Sanding sticks to level out the nub.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Squadron-Products-Value-Sanding-Stick/dp/B000CDR5K8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451350756&sr=8-2&keywords=squadron+tri+grit
  
  
• A marker for panel lining.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Uni-Pin-Fineliner-0-05mm-Black/dp/B00A7BSEKK/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451351047&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=uni+pin+.5+fine+liner
  
  
• Flat topcoat, I know you said you didn't want to paint, but this is just a quick step to do at the end to make your model look less like a toy.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-53530-Acrylic-Interior-Exterior/dp/B001C42OXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451351086&sr=8-1&keywords=flat+top+coat
  
  The most important part is have fun with it, and do what you like.

That's a fine recommendation. I don't agree - but it's valuable for OP to see different approaches from different redditors.

My whole point is to not spend the extra money on accessories like this.

I'm a big fan of 'buy once, cry once' - but for some people it's valuable to go low budget at first. Especially with accessories like this. As I gained experience - I learned that cheaper/smaller knifes were better for me. So, for example, the 'better' knives I invested in previously now sit in a drawer unused.

Choosing which gear to buy high quality first is complicated. Different ways to approach for sure. I'm recommending to focus on the 'big 4' first, not the accessories.

​

For example - I carry these as my knife and flashlight often:

• Victorinox Swiss Army Classic SD Pocket Knife, $16
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Classic-Pocket-Knife/dp/B00004YVB2
    
• Nitecore Tube Keychain Pocket Flashlight, $10
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Keychain-Light-Pocket-Flashlight/dp/B00OZJ79R4

I usually recommend getting the Ontario RAT 1 as a first EDC folder (was mine), but since you want something a bit lighter - take a look at the black coated Spyderco Tenacious.

It has similar features to the RAT, but is lighter and will probably carry a bit better.

For many it was the knife that started this hobby for them.

Cheers and good luck!

Don't get that. If you want to wow him, definately get something special, like a Spyderco Delica Wave

The wave, patented by Emerson (famous high end brand), allows knives to be deployed the moment out of the pocket by itself. See if he owns one already, if not, that is a great choice.

Any of the Kershaw X Emerson CQC series is also a great choice, with the same wave feature. I always get these as gifts for people, both knife nut and non-nut. They always seem to be wowed by the wave feature. Its just my go-to for a knife gift.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-6034-Emerson-Designed-CQC-6K/dp/B00I0RSVQK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449725440&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+cqc

http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Delica-Emerson-Opener-Plain/dp/B00165X4K6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449725449&sr=8-1&keywords=delica+4+wave

Look at the Kershaw Leek, its got a good 3 inch blade, it practically disappears in your pocket, is basically a modern gentlemen's folder, and can get it in several different colors. Its one of the most popular knives out there and is well made. Only thing to watch out for is the tip, its very thin and can break off if you try and use it as a pry bar. You can find the leek for about 40-60 bucks depending on the model.

Link - Kershaw Leek

If you're looking for something heavier duty, the Kershaw Blur or Freefall would be good buys. I use a freefall as one of my EDC knives and think its a great buy for the money. The blur is very well regarded as well, though I don't have experience with one myself.

Link for Blur

Link for Freefall

If you don't absolutely need the spring assist, another idea would be a Spyderco Delica 4, or perhaps a Spyderco Persistence if you want a little cheaper price. Both are solid knives for the money and aren't too bulky in the pocket. You can get the Delica in colors too!

Link for Delica 4

Link for Persistence

If you want assisted opening, Kershaw is your primary go-to knife company. Anything with "SpeedSafe" is their assisted opening mechanism. Bonus points is that SpeedSafe is legal in all 50 states (although the knife itself might not be due to length).

I would highly recommend the Kershaw Knockout. It's one hell of a nice blade with a slim profile (so it doesn't get in the way of reaching into your pockets and pulling things out), doesn't weigh much, and kicks hard when opening.

The Kershaw Shallot is still my favorite carry knife despite owning over a dozen production folders and knives that cost 3-4 times as much. It has a slight recurve in the blade, it's thin, it's an amazing slicer, doesn't weigh much, and deploys fast. It doesn't have left-hand pocket clip carry, however.

Another is the Kershaw Blur which is a bit of a beefier recurve bladed knife that is a non-flipper (deployment with thumb studs only). One of Kershaw's most popular models, after the Leek. Keep in mind that the grip-y "TracTech" inserts that the Blur has is kinda like more dense and rougher cork. It can tear up and wear away at your pant's pocket over time. Like the Shallot, it also does not have lefthanded pocket clip carry.

I'm going to recommend knives I own. All of these are pretty high-value.

KA-BAR Dozier Folding Hunter

Manual opening. Own one myself, it's a tank... for 20$? Comes in different colors. Very light.

SOG Flash II

Assisted opening, comes out very forcefully. There's a little "wiggle" in the blade, but if you can get passed that... it's excellent. Somewhat light.

Kershaw Leek

Assisted opening, doesn't come out with as much force as the Flash II. Non-threatening, very well-made. The only thing to watch out for is the delicate tip. It's not like it'll break instantly, though. Just don't pry with it... It's great for detail work. Very thin as well. Very light.

No problem.

Kershaw Scallion (Small, assisted opening, steel is not so great)

Kershaw Skyline (good size, G10, nice blade shape, steel can get to a crazy level of sharpness)

Kershaw OSO Sweet (pretty cool assisted opener, great price there on amazon)

Spyderco Tenacious (same decent steel on the OSO Sweet and Byrd, good G10, good blade shape, Spyderco quality, great value)

Byrd Cara2 (Great value, overseas production brings prices way down on all Byrd knives)


Here is one above your price range

And one below your price range

I use this feature every day. I've been using AutoCAD since release 2 on floppies, and learned to draft by hand, too. I have a deep appreciation for the multitude of tools AutoCAD offers - even if I never use them, I appreciate that they are there before someone needs them, and I might eventually use them too.

AutoCAD is like those massive Swiss Army knives. It all comes down to the task at hand, and knowing what tool is going to help you get it done that much faster and more efficiently.

This particular tool helps to eliminate the need to draw construction lines by inferring coordinates based on when you have already drawn and the direction you move your mouse.

Well heres a list of some from amazon.

• Opinel No8 Carbon Pocket Knife | $12 | 4.6 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Chill Serrated Pocket Knife | $21 | 4.8 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Brawler Speedsafe Knife | $23 | 4.5 Stars
  
  
• Ontario RAT Folding Knife | $27 | 4.8 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Cryo Speed Safe Folding Knife | $30 | 4.4 Stars
  
  
• Spyderco Ambitious Plain Edge Knife | $33 | 4.5 Stars
  
  
• Spyderco Tenacious Plain Edge Knife | $34 | 4.7 Stars
  
  
• Camillus Carbonitride Titanium Folding Knife | $37 | 4.8 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Ken Onion Leek Folding Knife with Speed Safe | $39 | 4.7 Stars
  
  Hope that helps!
  
  PS if you aren't sure about your knife laws check out this PDF just scroll to your state and check. Also /r/Knives can probably help you if you have more specific questions about knives. Although going to that sub-reddit will also probably mean spending more than $30 so be forewarned.

Five day hike? I think you'll want to find two bags; a lightweight one that you'll be happy with carrying; and a heavy comfy one (like the Field & Stream). Car camping is great! It's tons of fun and easy experience.

When it comes to my opinion and knives; I say you don't need much for camping. I personally use a leatherman micra. I'd recommend something small; even a box cutter. Avoid cheap knock offs (like cheap leatherman look-a-likes, swiss army look-a-likes) because they are impossible to sharpen and dangerous (the folding blades will fold closed right on your hand). If you have no other knife and no particular knife-need, aside from a general camping/hiking knife, then consider this one... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GAVOUU/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

Now if you needed a knife for batoning wood, carving spoons, gutting deer, or some other particular purpose - my recommendation would change.

Renting a pack? I highly recommend it. It'll give you a chance to see what you like and don't like before you make the big purchase. A $10 pack rental is well worth it, considering packs sell for $100-300+. Also, temporarily trade out packs with your buddy when possible, even if it's only for half of an hour.

Hi! And welcome!

The Buck Bantam is a fine knife. It is a very good value and will serve you well, I think.

I also agree with the suggestions for the Ontario RAT 1 or 2. The RAT is a spectacular knife value and should do everything you need it to do. And it opens like a greased rocket.

If you like kershaw you can get a blur with S30v steel for around 65$ on amazon if you still want a kershaw. I've never been too impresed with them since I find their build quality to be lacking. They seem to have an excessive amount of blade play and use average quality steels in most of their knives. The a premium steel that can hold a razor sharp working edge. The spyderco delica/endura line is also a great knife. They have full flat ground blades that come razor sharp from the factory with absolutlely no blade play. I personally carry a green delica as one of my edc knives. The dragonfly is also great if you want a knife that dissapears on your person. it is a featherweight knife, that cuts and handles like a much larger knife.

If you are looking for a knife that can take an absolutely harsh beating, I would have to reccomend an Ontario RAT 1 or 2 depending on you size preference. They are a bit heavy in hand compared to other knives it size, but perform just as good as any of my spydercos. It is also on the cheaper side at around 25$.

The benchmades are also a good choice, but I would also reccomend the benchmade mini-presidio.

Anyways, I thought I might as well just post some links to them:

S30v Kershaw Blur

Benchmade Mini Presidio

[Benchmade Griptillian] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9BOF0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2Q6YQ3PL1NNYW&coliid=I1IO3PSF8569TW)

Benchmade Mini Griptillian (I prefer thumb hole openers, but both griptillians also are offered with combo edges and thumb studs.)

Spyderco Dragonfly

Spyderco Delica

Spyderco Endura

Ontario RAT 1

Ontario RAT 2

This has been brought up pretty often on this subreddit, and I feel like there is a division between two main theories on the problem:

• It's a software glitch / bad reporting / excessive app or system use.
  
• It's a hardware malfunction.
  
  I was in the same situation (very similar screenshot) and was told by a Google representative after a few e-mails back and forth that I was out of my warranty period. I finally got fed up with it enough that I bought a new battery and replaced it a few days ago. As others who have also replaced their batteries have said, it truly is like having a brand new phone. I highly recommend it, though the process is a pain in the ass. Being concerned anytime the phone is below 60% battery is no way to live, especially when it drops to that point so quickly after being taken off charge.
  
  Battery - $8.99 Amazon Prime; comes with opening tools but does not include a precision knife.
  
  Replacement back glass camera cover - $7.99 Amazon Prime; because the battery did not come with precision knives and I am not a patient man, so I clearly broke the glass.
  
  Precision knife - $3.58 add-on item; plan ahead. Don't be like me.
  
  Heat gun - $19.97 Amazon Prime; you can use a hair dryer but this is a ton easier.
  
  Tutorial
  
  If you decide to go ahead with it, best of luck.

You should pick up a few high value knives for the money. Here are a few that are worth way more than their price tag:

Mora Companion - this blade is incredibly useful for camp tasks and bushcraft projects, very strong even though it's not full tang (I've never heard of one breaking).

Ontario RAT Model 1 - This is one of the best folders I've used, at any price. For $26 you won't find a better knife.

Utilitac 2 - This knife comes in a ton of different styles, made by Ontario like the RAT, and of equally high quality. These knives are built like tanks, and can take abuse.

Schrade SCHF9 - Unlike the Mora, this knife is a huge chunk of steel. I doubt you could break it with a hammer to be honest, so if you're tastes run towards the bigger camp knife, this is it.

These beard socks are funny :)

A cool chamber light.

This awesome survival knife.

This really gorgeous beer glass.

A classic Jacob Bromwell copper flask.

Dandelion and burdock !!!
.

All of them are pretty hilarious but the first one on the second page shows the true qualities of this giant swiss army knife. Then just read the short one after that.

.
.
.

Also since nike foams were a pretty big thing back home, these reviews made me bust out laughing.

I'm a big fan of the Ontario Knife Co. RAT-1, OP.

https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E

The build quality is pretty good, the blade is easy to maintain, and the handle is easy to grip, which is a gripe I have against the Cryo (I have one and love it) since my hands are wide.

Kershaw Blur?

The only thing is that the pocket clip locations (there are 2) are only on one side of the knife. Should still be very workable for left-side carry and use, as it has ramped thumbstuds on either side. The Kershaw Speedsafe assisted-opening is really pretty great, and easy to remove if you so desire (as I have done). I have no problem opening or using the knife with either hand. And they're pretty reasonably priced. I have the one I linked, and it's been a great EDC knife. Blade length is ~3.5" of usable edge.

Amazing. I love the Internet community. If you liked this you'll definitely enjoy the Amazon reveiws for the Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife. Oh, and also this banana slicer. I have both pages bookmarked for rainy days - the reviews are that funny.

They're both in 8cr13mov and people really underestimate them for it. It's actually a very easily maintained steel but watch out for the Clash and its bead blasted finish; it'll rust on you easily. The Freefall is stonewashed so you won't have that problem.

Honestly I'd probably prefer a [kershaw chill](http://www.amazon.ca/Kershaw-3410-Chill-Pocket-Knife/dp/B002IVHQ5Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398139713&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+chill] in that range for its blade geometry. It's mostly flat ground and it will make for noticeably better slicing capability. (even though it is also bead blasted)

Otherwise it'd be good to pony up ten more bucks and get a Rat II

Check out the Marbles axe offerings on Amazon. They're solid little numbers and are cheap enough that you can spend a little bit more on your knife and maybe add a saw as well.

For a beginner, I'd go with a more versatile knife until you find what you like and dislike. The TOPS B.O.B. knife is a bit more than you want to spend but has a lot of smart features that will help inform future knife purchases.

If you decide you want a saw (I think they're a wise choice) the Bahco Laplander is tough to beat. Small, light, efficient, and dirt cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/Marbles-Outdoors-American-Hickory-Handles/dp/B008PPZO94/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462247202&sr=8-1&keywords=marbles+axe

http://www.amazon.com/Tops-Knives-BOB-Hunter-Wood/dp/B004GAM1UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462247669&sr=8-1&keywords=tops+BOB

http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-396-LAP-Laplander-Folding-9-Inch/dp/B0001IX7OW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462246674&sr=8-1&keywords=bahco+laplander

Firstly, you are in luck! The specs you listed are all available in one of my ALL TIME favorite knives. The Kershaw Skyline (video) is the finest EDC knife I've ever owned. Extremely light. Blade shape is perfect and thin... hollow ground. The grip is spectacular and you owe it to yourself to buy it. Oh, and the flipper is just perfect. Trust me you won't go wrong here. I keep mine shave sharp and it is simply a blast to own. You get used to the aesthetics. Check the reviews from amazon linked above.

The one item that I have honestly been needing is a laptop for college, I'm hoping to go this fall and I really need one because mine is shot so I'd like this Macbook or if you wanted to gift more than one person that would be great, if so I've been saving up for one for along time, since they've been announced actually. xbox one and let's see weird things, hmm just imagine you've got your
Unicorn meat and your one and only
Really expensive Badonkadonk land cruiser? Alright while cautiously cruising through the town with
The coolest and most badass Swiss knife you've ever seen! in other words you're unstoppable whilst in the Badonkadonk, it's a triple threat, right? Of course. Haha thank you so much for this contest!

Here are my personal essentials.

• Spyderco Delica 4: $60 VG-10 steel, comes in tons of colors
  
• Spyderco Endura 4: Larger version of Delica
  
• Morakniv Companion: $12-$20 A really awesome fixed blade, outperforms knives triple it's price.
  
• Victorinox Tinker: $20-25 classic swiss army knife, really great quality in general. Lots of tools but not too many so it's easily pocket carried.
  
• Victorinox Cadet: Smaller Swiss Army Knife, aluminum handles. Lots of colors.
  
• Kershaw Cryo, or Cryo 2: $20-40 steel frame lock, Hinderer design, good price, tons of colors. The Cryo 2 is the same as the Cryo just larger.
  
• Ontaro Rat 1 or 2: $25-30 Classically shaped folders with a very rugged build for a liner lock. The 2 is a smaller version of the 1.
  
  Also, you're going to want a sharpening system that works for you in the long run. I personally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker But there are tons of good sharpening options out there.
  
  P.S: You're going to get a lot of people hating on your Gerbers most likely, that's because they're honestly not worth it in the long run. They use very low quality steel for the price and they don't have the best quality control. I'm not saying your Gerbers are trash or anything. But they definitely won't last very long. Just about all of the knives I listed will last you a lifetime if you treat them right, and oil/sharpen them correctly.

Twitch II is good.

So is the Skyline

But my favorite is still the Tenacious. What an awesome EDC knife that sucker is. The metal may not be the best, but it makes up for it in durability and it's so easy to sharpen. The knife is of excellent quality and for less than 30$. If you want a smaller blade, get the Persistence (I wouldn't, the Tenacious is the perfect size for me).

I got a Kershaw Skyline. Great knife. Opens with index finger too. Super light, very good grip and an excellent blade.

all the moras are nice. get a carbon steel mora classic if you just want a base model, or if you don't like the wood handle/traditional look you can grab the mora frost which is cheaper and has a nice and grippy rubber handle. if you wanna spend a bit more cash, they have a line of thicker blades, designed for specific bushcraft use (whatever that means) such as the mora bushcraft black. basically they don't make a bad knife. even if you get the cheapest mora utility you will not be disappointed.

your sog is legit though, i really like it. i've been meaning to add a combo straight/serrated fixed blade to my collection and the seal pup elite really caught my eye. good looking blade for sure.

Night time hikes through the forest with a quality flashlight is fun. Several modes from dim to turbo. Amazing how the forest wakes up when humans go to bed. (which includes mt. lions in ca)

Yes, mosquito repellent. Also, buy a tent for 4 or 6. Two person tent is way too small. Sleeping pads (thermarest are good) A Coleman type camp stove is nice to have, and a set of camp pots and pans. These particular ones are what I bought, and work really well. If you camp in an area that isn't picked clean of dead tree limbs, one of these comes in handy to cut up small stuff for fires. Get yourself a good camp knife like a Morakniv, and a good locking cooler to keep the trash panda's out.

To start you need 4 things imo. Knife, sharpening stone, wood, and a glove.
I like Morakniv Wood Carving 120 Knife with Laminated Steel Blade, 2.4-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GATX62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JF87CbW24FV4W
It’s cheap and after many years of carving I still use it.

I use a home made honing strop 80% of the time and a diamond stone the remaining 20% when needed.

I use a lansky extra fine but there are probably better options.

Basswood is the standard carving wood. It’s available from hobby shops and on amazon.

Wear a (clean) leather or knife guard glove on your non dominant hand. It’ll save you a lot of cuts.

The Morakniv Companion seems like a good starting point. Pretty cheap where I'm at ordering from Amazon.

Granted, I have a couple Gerbers. Mostly paraframe folders, and for the price, you're better off with a Chinese Kershaw, like the Oso Sweet

[This (Keshaw select Fire)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IVPKOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.6azybTTQWBH1) has easily been the most useful knife I've owned. The blade itself is good, not great, but certainly good enough for everyday tasks. With typical knives I found myself using the blade to do things that I should have just gone and grabbed a screwdriver for and would end up chipping the edge.

However if you just want something with a good blade I'd recommend [Kershaw Leek] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009VC9Y0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SlbzybWEZ68XA)

I've owned the Kershaw G10 Hawk ($15) and the Kershaw Skyline ($34).

Both are nice knives, I consider the G10 an excellent light use knife because it is is light and small. The thumb stud is hard to get purchase on, I took a file and cut a groove in the handle so I could get at it easier, very easy to do.

The Skyline is similar, larger blade, they'll sharpen it for you if you mail it in (I think for free, besides postage), no steel liners in the handle, very easy to open (flipper).

This Plano box for storing my extra ships and components. I have 4.

This Plano tacklebox for storing and transporting the lists that I'm currently playing. You can definitely fit all that. I also recommend getting some bubble wrap. They sell it in large rolls at hobby stores like Hobby Lobby. I bought a roll for like $5 a couple years ago and I still haven't used it all. It makes for good padding.

As others have mentioned the Plano makes several great cases that work great for X-wing

Here's what it looks like with ships/dials/bases/tokens inside of it. I caulked the bottom of the trays since they didn't sit flush I can fit almost all of my Rebel fleet inside of it. The only thing I can't fit is a YT-2400, though I took out the Ghost I could fit several more easily. I picked mine up at Harbor Freight on sale for $9

I got him this single knife and this set here . They are good enough to get you started.

For the core, ya I am putting something...interesting in it. My buddy and I are trying to figure out an easy way of hollowing out the middle of our "branches" without damaging the integrity too much. That same buddy has a magnificent red beard, beautifully manicured, so we are going to be pulling some of those off, braiding them, and coring the wand with that. If any material we muggles have contains magical properties, it's that beard.

I have a Gerber multi-tool Suspension GE22-41471. I like it but it's pretty heavy for its size and, as others have said, you don't need half the tools in the wilderness.

Go Outdoors have a selection. Might be cheaper on Amazon.

I have a folding saw which is light.

You could try a wire saw. I haven't tried one myself.

I find my folding trowel very useful.

Don't get this trowel - it's flimsy

I also have a bushcraft knife. I'm not sure it's legal to carry around (UK) all the time but I think it's ok if you're using it while camping etc. (better check if you do buy a knife).

Kershaw skyline
http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Skyline-Knife-Textured-Handle/dp/B001CZBDF8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411072014&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+skyline

Kershaw chill
http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-3410-Chill-Pocket-Knife/dp/B002IVHQ5Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411072014&sr=8-2&keywords=kershaw+skyline

Both are great edc knives. Chill is small but tough (not tiny though) perfect if you work in an office.
Skyline is a great overall. My work edc.

Buy 2 of either one, if you manage to break one you have a backup while the factory fixes the other.

Nice man, both your kits are pretty solid. I'm at work so I can't be as thorough as I would like but here are a few ideas that stood out.

1/8" Pad: Drop it, cut two panels off your zlite to use as the frame and then just pull them out the pack to use at night to sleep. I did this all summer with my KS50 and it worked great. You'll need to cut a little bit off the width for it to fit, but it's minimal and not noticeable when sleeping.

Headlamps: There are much lighter headlamp options and many prefer flashlights for night hiking to bring the light closer to waist level and elongate the shadows. You can also clip them to a brim of a hat for hands free use around camp. A little thrunite ti3 would be a good bet if you don't plan on much night hiking, or a Nitecore Tip 2017 for night hiking.

Knife: The Victorinox Classic SD only weighs 22grams or if all you need is a knife check out Spyderco Ladybug at 16grams. Avoid amazon for the ladybug, there are counterfeits going around i hear.

FAK: You could likely pair this down, mine only weighs 1.5oz

Houdini P/O: Seems unnecessary with the versalite? But I've never worn the Nano-Air Light Hoody, is the idea that the houdini would provide a breathable wind barrier when used in combination? I know this is a common strategy with fleece.

Kahtoola Micro Spikes: If we end up needing them this year I'm going to try Snowline Chainsen Light. Quite a bit lighter than microspikes.

On a side note, when do you start? I'm heading out on May 18th. Edit: Nevermind...somehow missed this in your post...maybe I'll see you all in Oregon or Washington! I'm targeting a late August finish.

Then returned with two hookers and a cooler full of beer.

But my personal favorite:

> Received this knife as a gift for my 18th birthday. Wish I'd have known what it was because as soon as I touched it, I grew a mustache and became a Navy Seal. Mom fainted and my dad laughed and handed me a beer. I was born a girl.

>Minus 2 stars because my breasts were really nice.

Morakniv bushcraft. Great blade, great friction fit sheath, nice tacky handle, plus it comes with a firesteel and sharpening stone built in to the sheath. I have dozens of knives--some waaaay more expensive--but this is my go to.

A lot of people like fiskars axes or hatchets for inexpensive options. Available at local hardware stores. There are pros and cons to them but overall considered good value for the price.

An axe is probably the most dangerous tool you can have in terms of inflicting self harm. Skill and care are required. Risks are severing fingers, major arteries, deep cuts through tendons, shattering bones. If you don't practice with one, better not to take one out IMO. With a saw, which can perform many tasks, there is much less risk of fatal or debilitating injuries. Much easier to operate in less than ideal conditions.

A bacho folding saw is a great value at $20. Small, lightweight, and we'll tested in the field. If you want a higher end folding saw, a silky gomboy would be the next step up.

If you want something heavier duty, a proper bucksaw would be required. Though at that point I think you are moving out of bug out bag territory.

Bahco 396-LAP Laplander Folding Saw, 7-1/2 -Inch Blade, 7 TPI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001IX7OW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Sq5Ezb2KYC5PC

Silky Folding Landscaping Saw GOMBOY PROFESSIONAL 240 Medium Teeth 121-24 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CED1OG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ds5Ezb0SPWFTV

I bought 3 assisted opening knives:

• Leek - Ken Onion
  
• Flash II - SOG
  
• Some junky piece of shit - Smith & Wesson
  
  I'm not 100% satisfied with any of them. I like the SOG the best, but all of them have annoying locks on them that defeat the entire purpose of an auto opening knife. The purpose is to open them quickly with one hand. Well if the safety keeps getting turned on in your pocket then you end up fiddling with them.
  
  My brother on the other hand has a Ken Onion Black Blur and that seems to be a really good knife.

I've had this box cutter/ knife for a few years and it has held up very well. Gerber has a lifetime warranty that I will probably never have to use. I've owned many pocket knives but this one is hard to beat for quality. Best part about it is that it's under $8 on Amazon with Free Prime shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Lite-Pocket-Knife-31-000345/dp/B002RILCLY

Your price range is pretty limited. Fixed knives are ideal for hiking not so much for a casual EDC.

Have you looked at the [Cryo 2 by Kershaw]( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d /B00AU6NWP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395338365&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40)? It's a fun knife, good for people with big paws and it's relatively cheap. (Not to be confused with the first Cryo, which is a smaller version of the 2)

Edit..I have huge paws, and happen to have a Cryo2 in my pocket for reference.
http://i.imgur.com/oVmlp09.jpg

How do you think this set compares to the Tamiya one?

I noticed in the pics of that set that it included a Xuron cutter. Would I get a better cutter with this particular Xuron cutter than the generic one included in the set?

I also have this for a pen knife and this for a file set picked out so I would have 3 main tools (cutter, pen knife, and a file set) for $22.14 total all with 2-day Prime shipping available (so I won't have to stare at an unopened box of Freedom 2.0 for a month waiting for deliveries from Japan).

Would I be missing something crucial if I went with just 3 individual tools above and are there better options for the money (that I won't have to wait a month for)? Any input on all this would be greatly appreciated.

I never leave home without my Blur, I found it to be the best knife for the money. They are built like tanks, the opening assist is really nice, and the blade shape is ideal for me.

I bicycle tour, but it is almost the same.

Kershaw Skyline awesome little knife for a great price!

Made in USA kershaw blur - excellent sale price right now.

Has a speed safe opening component that makes its utility that much better. Really good steel blade for the price. I've had mine for two years now with no issue. Keep it oiled and also it's pretty easy to sharpen. You may also send it in to the manufacturer and they will sharpen it for you.

Check out this deal:
Kershaw S30V Blur Steel Blade Knife with SpeedSafe

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015ZXCT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ahmrybP05YA77

EDIT: just realized that you meant utility as in a razor cutter. My bad

This case made by Plano is outstanding for holding everything Carcassonne. The compartments on top hold all of the tokens and them some with each being able to have their own separate compartments, and the inside compartments hold all of your tiles plus room for labeling and plenty of room for extra stuff as well. A few pieces of paper like your collections rules can also fit inside as well.

I tried this one, and had to ditch it after a few days. I kept it clipped in my front pocket, and any time I would bend at the hip, or squat, the tip on the but end would poke right into me. Had to take it out of my pocket when I drove. Albeit, I'm real skinny. I loved the action, but I can't carry it. I keep it in my toolbag now.

I've since replaced it with this Gerber. It doesn't hold any blades, and I had to loosen the pivot to be able to flip it open one handed, but the size is awesome. You can use a coin to loosen the blade when you do need to replace it.

I got my X-acto Knife here

Has done me great justice so far. And, like Dan said, it definitely takes some practice to really use the knife to its full potential.

Great link. TY

Is there a definitive determination on the legality of something like a Kershaw pocket knife with "SpeedSafe"? Kershaw OSO Sweet

I'll add that I saw Kershaw knives with SpeedSafe at my local Walmart...

Here's a few of my favorite budget knives. Can't go wrong with any of them! I don't have any to trade otherwise I gladly would. Here's some amazon links, all prices include free shipping (and Amazon is the best.)

Spyderco Tenacious($40): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EI7578/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?qid=1408631106&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Ontario RAT Model 1($27): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013ASG3E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1408631239&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Kershaw Thermite($25): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BNPUX94/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1408631306&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

Kershaw Cryo($25): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0074FI28Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?qid=1408631380&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Well i just got into this game just have one starter and just placed an order for a gravity feed. I'm just planning to use this plano lockjaw organizer. It worked great for when ran a Junior High D&D club, so planning on storing my dice, rule books and dice bags. And for the cards I'll use Deck box for my teams and then store any extras in BCW boxes from my baseball collecting days. It's a bit much for what i have know but it's what i have on hand don't want to spend money on storage rather save that money for when the DC Worlds Finest set is released.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1670S30V-Knife-Steel-SpeedSafe/dp/B0015ZXCT0/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1383043023&sr=1-1&keywords=s30v+blur

Excuse the long link, but I would point you in this direction. I think it's one of the best deals around. You get vastly superior S30V steel than the CRKT for a few more bucks, and it's american made (in case that matters to you).

my edc is the kershaw blur, but I have the one with the serrated edge and I love it, its perfect in my opinion.

I would personally stay away from SOG. They are not as bad as some people on here may tell you but they just can't beat Spyderco, Benchmade and Kershaw. I would stick to these 3 brands when starting a collection and if you want you can expand to other companies. For a price range of $80 you might be able to get a Benchmade Griptilian or Mini-Griptilian. Remember that there are a TON of black coated blades out there. There is even a Black Blade Tenacious which is what I am recommending to you.

I wish I was in your position though. I got into knives about 3 months after I got Eagle. If you get the right knife you can be the coolest guy in the troop or even be the 'knife guy'. Anyway feel free to ask any questions.

The Tenacious looks good for the price.

So now I'm down to 3 I would like to choose from,

• Kershaw Cyro
  
  
• Kershaw Leek
  
  
• and the Spyderco Tenacious
  
  So I think I might be leaning towards the Leek, except for what you said about the thin steel. Will that be a major issue? The Tenacious looks good, only thing is that it doesn't have to spring loaded opening, which is something I didn't really know I wanted until now. Then there's the Cyro, which has a slightly smaller blade (1/4 of an inch shorter), but it also has the spring loaded system, only thing is it doesn't look as simplistic as the Leek, but I think I can get over that. Which would you recommend of the Cyro and the Leek which I've posted? Because I realize there are different variations of each knife, but if I get either, I will be getting the ones I've linked to. Thanks.

Items for outside the classroom

Biggest thing to carry is a bottle opener

Cheap Keychain Bottle Opener

You don't want some expensive bottle opener because you'll be passing it around alot and you might forget to ask for it back

BIC Lighter

Kershaw Cinder

BUT preferably swiss army knife classic
SAK Classic

or the rally with a bottle opener
SAK Rally
you sacrifice scissors for bottle opener

wallet
dont get a bifold wallet those are out of style no (no offense to anyone who still carries them) but a simple slim card holder is alot better and sleek

Things you need in the classroom

Best Red Pens a must for note taking
I wouldn't get the blue one uniball because its a dark blue almost black

So get these instead
BIC blue pen

Most "EDC" notebooks are expensive and offer very little sheets of paper. You could use one as an assignment pad but something with acutal dates is better so once you get your syllabus you can right down all the assignments during the first week.

Note books I would just go to walmart. You can get five subject notebooks for $2 now during their back to school special. Where ever you buy notebooks take advantage and buy for the spring semester because prices are only this cheap in aug/september.

Not your usual edc recommendations but I wasn't rolling in dough early on in my college career and rather let people borrow a cheap pen and let them keep it then stress about getting my pen back when I let the next person borrow it to sign in.

your edc should be what you like to carry and use

I modified my setup a bit, to accodomodate feedback from other people and to see what works best for me

Somebody suggest to use this knife:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's my new setup:

RIGHT FRONT POCKET

Any dynomighty wallet, just pick a design

https://www.dynomighty.com/categories/

Car keys (whatever your carkeys are). If you want a USB stick added on to your keys, use a Micro-HDMI for low profile and convenience

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RBGYGPG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LEFT FRONT POCKET

Iphone6, Samsung S6, etc etc. Whatever floats your boat

Pick a small battery charger, search for it on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=portable+battery+charger&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aportable+battery+charger

Get a retractable cable for your charger if you need too (low profile)

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-Gold-Plated-Retractable-Micro-USB/dp/B00SVVY844/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558782&sr=8-4&keywords=USB+retractable+cable

JEAN COIN POCKET (on front right pocket)

That gerber fold up knife https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RIGHT MOST JEAN STRAP ( was the front right before)

Carbiner

https://www.amazon.com/LeBeila-Carabiner-Aluminum-Locking-Keychain/dp/B013NNG18U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558280&sr=8-1&keywords=carabiner

duck tape

Tape planet had the cheapest prices at $1.54 each

http://www.tapeplanet.com/Mini-Rainbow-Duck-Tape-Duckling-p/stdtpl-282322.htm

BACK LEFT POCKET

Measuring tape. This one has the lowest profile so it doesn't hurt to sit on, 10' is good enough for almost everything

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-115-10-Foot--4-Inch-PowerLock/dp/B00009OYGH/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558504&sr=8-7&keywords=measuring+tape

BACK RIGHT POCKET

Get sticky notes, I suggest highland brand 3"x3" since it works for nearly everything you might need sticky notes. I suggest getting both, alternate colors by day

Plain yellow:

https://www.amazon.com/Post--Markers-Assorted-Bright-670-10AB/dp/B007QFATEO/ref=sr_1_6?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1474558871&sr=1-6&keywords=sticky+notes

Color:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OCPJK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, get a sharpie too. Fine points are good

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Permanent-Markers-Point-Black/dp/B00006IFHD/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1474558955&sr=1-1&keywords=sharpie

Alternatively or ultra fine

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-37001WM-Permanent-Marker-12-Pack/dp/B00006IFI3/ref=pd_sim_229_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=08FBBP33PZV82ZY7AT41


--------------

that's my current setup

Out of the three you have listed, the Skyline has the best steel (Sandvik 14C28N) and the greatest price to quality ratio over the other two knives you are looking at. Plus lifetime warranty.

This list from the sidebar has many other good suggestions if you want more options.

I have two recommendations that have never failed me within that price range and bring a lot to the table for the price:

The Delica4 by Spyderco which is large and stays sharp. It can cut and cut and just won't stop. I use this for my outdoor activities where a pocket knife can be used with some abuse. Also has a great grip on it which comes in a multitude of colors. Only knife better by them in my opinion is the paramilitary 2 for about $100 more.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CHANLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407121452&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

The Ken Onion designed Leek by Kershaw is my gentleman's knife. Very sharp straight out of the box and won't fail you. Much smaller than the Delica4 by equally as trustworthy. Super fast deploy speed and fits in the pocket nicely with or without the clip. Kershaw is known for cheaply priced big bang for your buck knives that just keep on going...and if you lose it, your wallet doesn't feel it. First folder I bought a few years ago and it is still my go-to most days.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009VC9Y0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1407121786&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40

This is a selection of what I keep in my tech go-bag. You'll build your kit as you learn and build experience, or realize you could have helped a customer out of a jam quicker if you had that tool with you.

• cheap flashlights you wont feel bad about leaving in a ceiling or inside a rack: https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Lights-Super-Bright-White/dp/B00I45JKTA/
  
  
• torx screwdriver for lots of little devices. I have a similar set and it's pretty decent: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Magnetic-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics/dp/B015F734P0/
  
  
• power supply tester
  
  
• rechargable canned air
  
  
• zip ties
  
  
• velcro: https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Cable-Fastening-Tape-Yards/dp/B00FT2WHO6/
  
  
• leatherman/gerber multi-tool (needlenose) convenient when you need to do something quick and you don't have your bag with you.
  
  
• Set of pliers/wire cutters (leave the chanel locks at home): https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-4-Piece-Traditional-2078707/dp/B000CFMCTK/
  
  
• sharpies
  
  
• electrical tape: the good kind not the cheapo stuff
  
  
• multi-screwdriver: https://www.amazon.com/Lenox-Tools-23932-Multi-Tool-Driver/dp/B0013NX2DA/
  
  
• cordless electric screwdriver if you have lots of screwing to do.
  
  
• razor knife: https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Lite-Pocket-Knife-31-000345/dp/B002RILCLY/
  
  
• cable tester/tone generator: https://www.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-Multifunction-Tracker-Measuring-Instrument/dp/B01HCQSHNG/
  
  
• analog phone for testing phone lines: https://www.amazon.com/Saytay-Telephone-Lineman-Tester-Connectors/dp/B01ABT7458/
  
  
• punch down tool: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/
  
  
• cable crimper: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RJ-45-RJ-12-RJ-11-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G/
  
  Various extra parts I've accumulated over the years like screws, ATX Molex Power to SATA Power Adapters, ATX Molex Y splitters, SATA cables etc..
  
  Good luck and some tools overlap like multi tools and pliers so if budget is low, go with the tool that covers the most jobs.
  
  Edit: I noticed your bag is kind of expensive compared to something like a Dewalt tool bag. I use a plain Dewalt bag which is not as cool as the one in the link, but it's just as tough. This might be a good and less expensive consideration for you if you don't require the look of a briefcase for your tool bag.
  
  Edit 2: You may want to mark your tools with a wrap of some crazy bright color electrical tape to be able to recognize them when they walk away.
  
  
  

Kershaw Skyline is pretty nice if you want a g-10 handle and it's US made but it is 3 1/8" long

Kershaw Cryo is pretty nice and it's 2 3/4" long

A decent water bottle.

Earplugs are very helpful.

Whiteboards are also great for tracking work or explaining stuff.

On occasion a knife is also handy.

UNIX and Linux Systems Administration is also great.

I tend to work at a desk and in places where you can't bring your own random gear--which is not something that bothers me.

If you do like it and then come into a bit more money, take a look at the skyline or shallot. Both made in USA (if you're into that, generally means better quality regardless), have better steel, use the flipper, and the shallot's assisted (though I did do away with the speedsafe on my shallot - like I said, I prefer unassisted - but still a great knife).

I am unfamiliar with knife laws in NZ, but something like a [Kershaw emerson] (https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-3-25-Inch-Stainless-Reversible-Pocketclip/dp/B00I0RSVQK) or [Rat 1] (https://www.amazon.com/Rat-OD-Green-D2-Steel/dp/B01HSF41MM) are both pretty affordable and good all around knives.

I would consider something like the Kershaw Skyline. If you are expecting heavy use then i would pick up a decent sharpning kit such as the TRI-6 System.

That skyline does not have a partial serrated edge. I to enjoy a serrated edge for cutting rope and twine... however, that blade is 14C28N stainless steel and can maintain a very sharp edge with everyday use for quite some time and negates my need for a serrated edge.

Coupled with the tri-6 system you would have an awesome edc (every day carry) knife for a very long time.

Budget total: $60-$65 - free shipping for prime members

Edit: serrated edges are a pain to sharpen without the proper tools and know how

Hope this helps

I'll give you some options here instead of just one choice.

This CRKT is a wonderful tool.

If you'd like another Spyderco you can't go wrong with a Dragonfly or a Centofante III.

If you've never got a Kershaw they're killer knives for the price. The Leek is a great introduction.

Or, you could buy 2 knives with your fifty. Ontario's RAT I and RAT II are some sweet knives.

Depending on your taste. You simply cannot go wrong with any of these knives.

Been here lurking for a while and finally decided to post my EDC. Since there's been some discussion lately as to where people carry their EDC that is how my list below is broken down. Let me know if you have any additional questions.

Head

• Seahawks Superbowl Champions Hat
  
  Neck
  
  
• Seahawks lanyard with work ID, keycard, desk keys
  
  Left Wrist
  
  
• Suunto Vector in Military Foliage Green
  
  Front Left Pocket
  
  
• EZGO Slim
  
• KOBALT Multitool
  
• HTC One with White Otter Box Commuter Case
  
• Olight S15 Baton
  
  Front Right Pocket
  
  
• Carabiner with 4x Nite Ize S-Biners Size 0, Gerber Shard and KeySmart Standard Size
  
• Gerber Impromptu
  
• Kershaw Cryo 2
  
  Back Left Pocket or In-Hand
  
  
• Rite in the Rain Notebook
  
• Rite in the Rain Notebook Cover
  
  For those interested in the EZGO and KeySmart my opinions are as follows.
  
  I like the EZGOs form-factor, but after owning it for a while it doesn't 'stretch' at all for what's in there. I have two credit cards, ID, insurance and a punch card in mine and it's like pulling teeth to get anything out of it. Also, since it's made to fit cards, anything bigger than that can't be accommodated. As a result I have my CPL, vehicle insurance and KOBALT tool rubber-banded to the thing. I've been eyeing the Flipside 3X as a replacement, but their shipping is around $7 which is over 10% the cost of the wallet... hence my apprehension in buying one.
  
  As for the KeySmart, I've had it a couple of days and so far I dig it but with a couple of caveats. They include two keyblanks for Schlage-style keys. I took one of them to Lowe's to have it cut and there was an issue with the blank, as a result their machine could not provide an accurate copy. I purchased a key from Lowe's and they made it without issue. Not sure what kind of weird science is up with the blanks they included, but I would be leery of buying their 'lightweight' and colored blanks as you may have similar results. My second issue may be somewhat nitpicky, but it's next to impossible to open the door with one hand anymore. Hands full of groceries or mail? Well, you better plan ahead on getting your key flipped out prior to getting to the door, other wise you'll be settin' that shit down.
  
  Would I buy the EZGO Slim again? No. Would I buy the KeySmart again? Yes.

The saw and axe are a good idea, though if this is something you'd see yourself doing quite often I think investing in a Wetterlings or Gransfors Bruks axe could be a good idea. You can get a small/medium sized axe and Bahco Laplander for under £100.

Knife wise, possibly something like a Becker Bk7, or if you're willing to go a bit over the £100 a Becker Bk9 or a Spec Plus SP-50 Gen II, heavy knives which are good for chopping. Possibly the Cold Steel Recon Scout if you're willing to go further over £100.