Reddit mentions: The best window screens

Love her color makes her look like a teeny Syrian! She’s a dwarf so I don’t think I need to say anything about a wheel just don’t go super tiny. Make sure she has a proper size cage. Big cages are the best make sure its atleast 24” length 12” width and 12” height. Clear bins are good for you too see her I’d recommend! Cut holes in her lit so she can breath and can’t escape, either cut 60+ half an inch holes or cut a big square off the lid (if you have a cat or curious dog do the hole lid) do not use pine or cedar bedding. Any paper bedding is good I recommend carefresh (Cheaper on Amazon) do not use mesh wheels!!! Your ham will get hurt and get bumble feet not good. No bathing in water. It’s not necessary but it’s highly recommend to get sand for your hamster to bathe in, she’ll either roll around in it herself or you can hold her and give her a sand bath. I like most plastic wheels, wouldn’t recommend wooden wheels for a dwarf since my friend has a wooden wheel for her ham and he can’t even move it so she had to pay for a plastic one. Chews are good for her teeth so they don’t grow too long. Clip her nails if you can, if you can’t go to a vet when you notice them getting long. Plastic tubes and empty paper tubes are good boredom breakers. Clean the cage fully once a month with a one part water one part vinegar solution and change the bedding monthly. Lastly a hideout so she can scurry away. I’ll leave some links, good luck!


hamster care video

bin cage tutorial

If she’s not tame here’s a taming vid

hamster dont’s

bedding

chews


sand

hideout

boredom breaker/hideout

wheel

bin for bin cage

mesh top for bin cage

zip ties for bin cage

tube

This is just from an old renovator. Please take it for what it's worth.....

I have nothing but the highest respect for the eggheads at UMASS Amherst, but real world installations will almost certainly fall below the targeted goals.

I have opened up more walls with blown-in insulation than I can count, and in every single instance there was a void at the top due to settling. Some of the voids were between a foot and two feet wide. Now maybe the 4.5 pound per cubic foot density will alleviate that, but I personally doubt it. None of the installers that I've ever met weigh the product as it gets blown into a cavity. And they don't use a flexible rod to mechanically pack the product down. They get paid by the job, not the hour. They blow and go.

The lofty goals of increased air sealing, zero settling, and better sound control is nice, but in reality will not be easily done, nor will it be measurable. All it takes for a poor air seal is for an interior outlet to not have an envelop around it, especially if it is opposite an exterior outlet. There are special electrical boxes to address this issue, but you don't have any:

http://www.alliedmoulded.com/go/energy

you can seal them with spray foam:

http://www.coupons4lv.com/uploads/1/6/6/4/1664982/9637161_orig.jpg

you can use foam gaskets:

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-283333-Sealers-Variety-Decorative/dp/B0040JH21W

You should also caulk along the seams of the sheetrock where it meets the other walls, the floor, and the ceiling. The floor joints are the worst culprit. I've had some that were so bad the wind whistling through would blow out a candle.

To get to zero settling, I see no way to accomplish that without mechanical compaction. Areas that often get less densely packed are the parts of the void below the electrical wiring. A dam can be created between the sheetrock and 12/2, giving the impression that the void is filled. Yet it is mostly air under the wiring. Sometimes you need to force it past the electrical cable with something rigid, like a thin fiberglass pole.

And there are WAY better options for sound control than blown-in. Try a few experiments with your fake wall with no insulation, loose fill, and dense packed. There will not be a great difference.

In short, doing the best you can is your goal. The lofty goals of the UMASS experts are nice, but not likely achievable in the real world.

This removable screen did the trick for me. You can leave a cat-sized gap to one side and use clear plastic as a flap. I found a thick, clear, flexible plastic at a home store for a couple of dollars. I sliced that into strips and hung them from the top of a frame made from a thin wood strip (you could use a yardstick for that). The edges of the screen are wood, so tacking my extra frame to the side was easy. The strips hang like the flaps at a car wash, slightly overlapping.

I'm sure there are other ways to make one of these work, depending on the size of the screen you order and the width of your window.

*The plastic I found was a clear sink liner, so it has enough weight and cling to usually fall back flush without leaving large gaps. I think something more lightweight would move too much in a breeze. I also have a super-small, but powerful metal-bladed fan clipped to the window frame to blow away mosquitoes and gnats if they approach the window. It does a remarkably good job of keeping them out.

Given that this is an UL forum, we might mention that in addition to costing a fraction of the manufacturer footprint, a footprint made of polycryo or tyvek will weigh a fraction as much. You can buy a polycryo sheet for less than $10 that will give enough material for two footprints at less than 2oz each. That compares to the Passage 2 manufacturer footprint at $30 and 8.2 oz. ( https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Window-Insulation-Picture-Windows/dp/B00PCHY4VM ) People in this forum are generally in favor of paying more money to get less weight, not paying more to have more weight. ;)

These things are not rocket science. All you "need" (and you probably don't really need that) is a rectangular sheet that you place under your tent. Done. People have gone entire thru-hikes (i.e., over 100 nights) with a single polycryo groundsheet. Why would you bother using something heavier? Grommets and use of rainfly on its own is potentially a reason, but (1) few people ever do that, the people purchasing a tent are not usually the people who also like sleeping without an inner-tent to protect them from bugs and critters, and (2) a polycryo sheet is so cheap you might as well have one for the vast majority of your trips when you're using both inner-tent and rainfly. Or, just go without a groundsheet at all; the floors in most tents are strong enough by themselves -- unless you're often camping on sharp rocks or needled plants -- and even then repairing a small poke through is not a big deal.

As many have said, you need to find out here the drafts are coming form, walking around the house with incense is a great idea as someone else posted.

I know you said you have all new windows, but check around the window sills. Its very possible the window itself is fine, but it wasn't sealed properly when installed.

Check all of your electrical outlets and power switches. something like these Outlet Sealers would probably help. they are cheap and easy to install. I installed them in my house and noticed a difference in how draft it felt.

3x3 inch repair patch for fiberglass mesh window covers. I got it at Ace Hardware. (https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Screen-Patch-Repair-3-Pack/dp/B00W2ESVB2) This was the cheapest solution although the most annoying. These patches come with a adhesive backing which I had to remove. It kinda just pealed off but took some time to get the residue off. The easy solution would be to get a large roll of the stuff from around ~15 dollars, that is just the mesh itself. Cut it using regular scissors :) .

Edit: This might work m as well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4539K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_muiuzbZQPMTTS

I ordered this screen on Amazon. I’m sure you could find something at a hardware store. The ones I got are pretty sturdy, they don’t really bend and would be hard to cut. If you wanted to use zip ties you might look for something a little thinner.

For heat I use a 100w ceramic heat emitter in this dome lamp. CHEs work best with dimming or pulse proportional thermostats like Herpstats which are expensive. I was able to find an Exoterra version that was less expensive, but still more than an on/off thermostat.

Oh, and if you use tape anywhere for the screen, make sure it’s on the outside only. No adhesive inside. :)

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: removable screen


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

If you are just leaving the window open, and you don't have built in screen windows, try something like this -an adjustable window screen. Just make sure there are no gaps for them to crawl in. Be sure to check around for any other possible cracks or gaps they come thru and you should be ok. Be kind to your spider-bros and other predatory insects, [because they do what they can to help] (http://www.fishpondinfo.com/photos/other/arachnids/stinkspider.jpg). Just be glad your house isn't [covered with these buggers.] (http://hyg.ipm.illinois.edu/photos/brown_marmorated_stink_bug_house.jpg)

This may seem silly, but have you considered something like porch screening?

You can get a magnetic kit, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAM34VJ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?th=1

If all of your equipment is drawing air from the front, you'd probably only need to apply it on the one side. Otherwise, get two kits, and do the front and back.

You can go one step further. There are small portable/external (for lack of a better word) window screens that you can put a laptop on to elevate it and give even better ventilation underneath.

https://www.amazon.com/Marvin-AWS1033-Adjustable-Window-19-33in/dp/B0012RYGKU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481058186&sr=8-2&keywords=adjustable+window+screen

10", 15", or 18" high on this particular amazon listing so you can fit it to your laptop's size.

Has anyone installed PollenTec or similar type of window screen? Like this: https://www.amazon.com/PollenTec-PollenTec-Clean-Window-Screen/dp/B00LNBP60E/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484097081&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=pollen+tech+window+screens Do these screens work?

Also, does anyone have recommendations on an air filter that may help reduce my breathing in of vog?

I used something like this when I didn't have AC in NYC in the summer. It slides into the window without any damage and is adjustable to width.

http://www.amazon.com/Thermwell-Products-AWS2445-24x25-45-Screen/dp/B00133F8VY/

For mosquitos, I would suggest not scratching (for me they seem to last longer when you do) and afterbite or a calming lotion applied regularly.

You don't have to permanently install something.

I have a cat and I hate getting bitten by insects since half my arm swells up, and I like having no screens in windows otherwise (sticking my head out), so I just picked up a few of http://www.amazon.com/Thermwell-Products-AWS1537-15x21-37-Screen/dp/B002SBEG1S/

My cat isn't really interested in them because it's a small opening (and usually covered by blinds too), but it's big enough that there's decent airflow. The only improvement I'd make is maybe gluing some kind of strip on the top edge because there may be a small gap between the window and the frame.

You can't prevent a cat from ripping the mesh and getting out, but otherwise it's not too bad.

Three things worth noting:

• Your phone produces EM radiation in the microwave spectrum; this will mildly heat your flesh, but at reasonable levels won't hurt you. "Unreasonble" begins something like five orders of magnitude above consumer devices. [Unless you're a ham]
  
• If you wanted to block this radiation anyway, you would need to interpose a conductive barrier (e.g. a metal plate) between the phone and yourself. The screen is usually there, so you would be making it effectively unusable.
  
• If you put it on the back, not only will it direct more microwaves into your head due to reflection, but also make it far less effective at communicating with the tower when making calls. On one side, your head is in the way; on the other side the plate is in the way.
  
  If you really want to block this, and still be able to use it, you need to isolate yourself from it, without restricting the device. Luckily, the spectrum used by phones is primarily in the <1GHz range (with some in the 2.5GHz, and some 5G options higher than that). That corresponds to 10cm on the high end. Thus, a metallic mesh screen significantly smaller than that will block the RF signal.
  
  What I'm getting at is that you need a suit made out of metal window screen.

I've been using the AtmosFX branded gray projection material: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012Y1V8EY/



I've tried a few other types but I've yet to find one that "disappears" quite as good as the AtmosFX stuff does with my light & projector configuration.

Socket sealers (in addition to child safety plugs) work really well on any outlets that happen to be on exterior walls.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Sealers-Variety-Decorative-283333/dp/B0040JH21W

Get some of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Thermwell-Products-10X21-37Ext-Screen-Aws1037/dp/B00004Z13K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1318821563&sr=8-1

work great, and when you move, you can take them with you.

These are a godsend

​

amazon.ca

If they're a problem I'd recommend some fly screens such as these. They're pretty cheap and work well, however they aren't really any good if your windows open inwards.

Do you not have screens? Maybe only open the window a little bit?
Or maybe buy a temporary screen like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Fenestrelle-Expandable-Adjustable-Horizontal-Vertical/dp/B0776ZP83Q/ref=asc_df_B0776ZP83Q/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=231273170391&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14309635301972137562&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1024479&hvtargid=pla-385409839419&psc=1

Get some expandable window screens the right size for your windows...they’re a lot more effective.

I wonder if they could get through something like this?

Pet Resistant Screening.

You could use some wire or small zip ties to attach it to a tomato cage.

These Window screens I got them for my allergies and jesus they help.

You can buy window screen that might help.

https://www.amazon.com/PollenTec-Clean-Air-Window-Screen/dp/B00LNBP4WE

Like these.

https://www.amazon.com/Fenestrelle-Expandable-Adjustable-Horizontal-Vertical/dp/B0776ZP83Q/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=window+screens&qid=1557492347&s=gateway&sr=8-4

We used em when we were apartment people in NYC since those windows never had screens.

You're kidding, right? You never heard of the slide-out screens that every New Yorker puts in their windows? Are you new here? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLOM9I4/ref=asc_df_B00CLOM9I45082627/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00CLOM9I4&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194883046452&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6196466873419820507&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004252&hvtargid=pla-309932148446

There could be poorly insulated power sockets and light switches that are allowing air to move through the walls. These are little insulated pads that you put behind your light switch plates/sockets and it may help, at the very least you'll have fewer spots for drafts.

http://www.amazon.com/Duck-283333-Sealers-Variety-Decorative/dp/B0040JH21W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419703715&sr=8-1&keywords=light+switch+insulation

That is just one brand but it gets the idea across. Your local hardware store will have more options.

These work well for me as a barrier in my window. Not sure how good it would be at capturing the dust you describe, but I have a giant 20" house fan as an exhaust pulling heat from the rig out of my house, and air flows through it just fine.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SBEG1S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q3RQ6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used to do maintenance at a couple medium sized hotels, get a big bag of DE (diatomaceous earth) and a squirt bottle thing (usually comes in a kit with the DE if you're getting a bed bug kit) and spray it EVERYWHERE in every nook and cranny (bed, couch, cushions, corners of floors/carpet/walls), also spray in your car, everywhere, make the cops who pull you over think you're a coke dealer with parkinsons.

Run all of your clothes and couch cushion covers ect in HOT water. And dry on HIGH heat. Bed bugs don't deal well with heat, granted your clothes may shrink...

I've spoken to many pest control people (guests will bring them in) we take a nuke everything/salted earth approach to confirmed reports of bedbugs. They will usually hide near wherever they are going to feed. So bed, couch, etc, anywhere you might be sitting for a long period of time.

They normally don't move from wherever they set up their home (a particular corner of the bed frame etc) until they get crowded out.
Depending on which side your neighbor is, line the common wall with DE as a precaution, also if you do share a common wall with her unit, get those outlet/switch cover gaskets and install them under the coverplates. (I woulnd't spray DE into the outlet boxes, DE itself isn't conductive, but it will pull moisture out of the air, and become conductive overtime).

Here in the US, we have [collapsible screens] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00133J0NG/ref=pd_aw_sim_86_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SG1PYE2QG32PCX5FQ84X) that we can pop into open windows. Unless a cat is particularly tenacious, this should be enough to keep them inside.

I used this last year with a projector to make ghosts in the front yard.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012Y1V8EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_wPQHzbHA3EHYC

Have you added insulation to the outlets and light switches? These little gaskets are cheap and they reduced our power bill by about 10%. Paid for itself the first month. https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Sealers-Variety-Decorative-283333/dp/B0040JH21W/

I'm not really sure how they're useless if you are complaining about bugs right now. There's a use for them occasionally, and they're just a thin mesh screen, they can't be that expensive, even in Europe.

Some of the windows in my US home don't have screens, but I got some adjustable screens you just pop into the open window space, voila! Problem solved. Something like this although with more visibility.