Reddit mentions: The best winter sports equipment

I just taped a this big guy last night. It mostly went well but there is a chunk missing out of that center that came up during taping. So it definitely happens. It's not to bad though. I haven't flipped him over yet. I wasn't prepared and he's to large to flip easily. I had to go to home depot and buy some larger boards to put him on to prepare to flip him. Once he's flipped it wont be to hard to bring the template back up and replace the missing beads.

The ones you've made look great! I have no idea what the one in the top left is from, but I love it.

A couple of suggestions for melting:

• Do not melt them on the boards, but it seems you've learned that with the tape method. The warped boards are awful for making larger projects, the beads don't line up correctly.
  
• This is one of the best pieces of advice I can think of if you are going to display these somewhere. Decide which direction you are going to want the final product to face. Put the tape on that side, and flip it over. On the side that you aren't going to see, feel free to melt the beads a little more intensely than the other. Don't worry as much if the beads fuse a little more than you'd like. This side isn't going to be seen and will help hold it together much better. Once it's ironed, flip it over, remove the tape and lightly fuse the visible side. When you are taping the visible side, if the beads feel to loose, flip it back over (use tape again if you need) and melt more it on the non-visible side.
  
• If you're going to make a lot of these, I would suggest buying a snowboard waxing iron, like this one. The iron is flat with no point, but its easy to use the corner of if you do need a point. I found this to work a lot better than a normal clothes iron.
  
• If you're melting large ones, iron it in sections. As you iron, the sections will start to cool. As they cool they will start to curl. Put something heavy on those sections (I use my old college textbooks, yay for being useful again!). If the curling is bad, go over it with the iron briefly to warm it up and continue putting heavy things on it. The curling can be especially bad if you have only one side of it ironed. As you iron the other side the it will 'curl' both direction and be more flat.
  
  Three more non-melting tips.
  
  
• To make my templates I take the sprite image into GIMP and I use the color select tool to break the image apart into multiple layers. One color per layer. Then I decide which bead color looks best for each layer. Next I put guidelines on the image to separate it into different 29x29 pixel squares for the different boards. I usually build my beads one board at a time instead of the project as a whole. Then as I'm putting the beads down, I make all the layers invisible. I start with the black layer and put those beads down on the board. Then I make each color visible one at a time and place those beads down.
  
• If you want more boards. I suggest the craft store Jo-Ann. They frequently have perler products on sale for 40% off. And if you download their app you can frequently get coupons for 40-70% off. I've bought most of my boards on the times I've gotten coupons so I haven't spent a lot on them. They have good deals on beads as well but see below for my advice on beads.
  
• Think ahead on the projects you may want to make and buy in bulk from the Perler website. If you buy 6+ bags they are only $2 a bag, but their shipping is a bit pricey. If you buy $60 worth of beads you get free shipping! In addition, if you subscribe to their email list, they will frequently go on holiday/misc sales and you can get an additional 20-30% off. This might be a little overkill but I went ahead and made templates for my next 29 projects to complete my summoner/summon/villain from each game goal while I waited for a sale. I counted all of the beads of each color and the total was around 120,000 beads (NeoBahamut was about 8,800 beads). Buying in bulk this way I spent about $1.50 a bag (though I did buy a couple of the 6000 bead black bags from Jo-Ann with coupons).
  
  Wow. that ended up being a wall of text. I did not intend for that, but I just kept writing. Hopefully it's all useful information for you. If not, sorry for the ramble.
  
  ​
  
  
  

Here's a comment I posted a month or two ago about this topic. Basically everything you'd need to wax, sharpen edges, and perform small-medium ptex repairs (think small core shots and scratches on the base of the ski).

Here's a kit I would go with if I were buying a kit. I personally liked buying stuff individually that suited my needs but it's easier to just buy 1 thing: https://www.amazon.com/Demon-Complete-Tune-Kit-Wax/dp/B00MAKO69O/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1478189719&sr=1-1&keywords=ski+wax+kit

The reason why I'd go with this kit over the ones you listed is because it comes with an edge sharpener guide + gummy stone. If you're sharpening edges you'd probably want to use a file&guide when starting out.


For waxing (normally use all temp wax unless you're an every week sort of waxer. Could expand out to cold specific wax if the weather calls for it):

Plastic Scrapper: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GSLE2FO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wax: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GAYNXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Iron: buy one at goodwill/a thrift. If you're too good for that then here: https://www.amazon.com/Wintersteiger-Ski-Snowboard-Waxing-Iron/dp/B0040OBXXU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476214415&sr=8-1&keywords=waxing+iron

You can also buy a nylon brush and base cleaner/a rag to clean your skis but hot waxing and then scrapping also works for cleaning.

When I'm done waxing my skis I usually go over the skis with a wine cork to make sure everything is even and smoooooth. Not something that you have to do though

For tuning:

Gummy Stone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017I6VNO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edge sharpener (can choose a different one):

https://www.amazon.com/Dakine-8-2300250-Green-Tuner-Green/dp/B00L6ZC1FA/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1476214569&sr=1-4&keywords=ski+edge+sharpener

Video so you don't fuck up your edges too much:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKpSBE8YWXk

You can also get a diamond stone/nail file from the store if you'd like.

Ptex for some base repairs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OIPZRVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Metal Scrapper for Ptex (could use a flat blade if you'd like but don't fuck up):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OIPZRII/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lighter: Gas Station/already in your house. After Ptexing a couple of times I fee like a torch lighter would work best here


Video for small ptex repair:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NA0vDNmNAEA

If you have major core shots I would probably go to a local shop and have someone fix it who does that stuff for a living. Really research what you're actually doing before you do it for the first time. You don't want to make things worse. After you get the hang of it it becomes a lot easier and can save you money. Can also do it for your friends on the cheap

I think without totally removing them you'll end up just having to cover the whole shield with something else to get a perfectly smooth surface unfortunately. If you want to stay with a clear material, try looking up "clear acrylic skylight domes". You would have to make the handles but that's not super difficult.



If you want to go with metal, look up the "Flexible Flyer Steel Saucer". Here's an amazon link, but I'm in the US so you may do better searching for it yourself: https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Flyer-Saucer-Slider-Winter/dp/B0006N8WYM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_200_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2RPS2NDVWKB7EPVDQ40R

If you cut off the edge that's super rounded in, you're left with an almost perfect captain america shield shape that's actually metal. Strip away the paint and polish the steel, then go in with an "anodized aluminum look" spray paint (Dupli-color is a good brand). This will give you a great shiny painted metallic finish look. Make sure you clear coat everything once you're done so the steel won't rust.

I guessed that much already. Making something just to make it isn’t very good for business or the consumer. I’d rather see you identify a problem and solve that problem.

The bag to me seems made with the idea to carry a board but little understanding of the people actually riding the boards and when/why they might want to put it in a bag or carry it.

This is nothing more than a snowboard bag, which you can buy for $30 on amazon.

The difference. A snowboard bag is designed to protect your snowboard and wax during traveling, hotels, airplanes etc. And doesn’t need to protect wheels, motors, electronics,trucks, batteries etc. during transport. You don’t use your snowboard while it’s in a bag and don’t snowboard around carrying the bag either.

A snowboard bag works for electric longboards, but isn’t optimal, it could be improved to be optimal, which would be really cool. But your bag doesn’t attempt to solve the needs of electric longboards.

I could order a nice padded snowboard bag, with wheels and straps for this same cost with free same day shipping on amazon.

As far as I’m concerned, this is your competition at that price point. Demon Phantom Fully Padded Travel Snowboard Bag with Wheels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO4PFAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j2nLBbZSQ4WWC

Anyways it seems poorly priced, designed, and not thought out for electric longboarder needs.

I don't know about CA - but they are available on amazon. If I were you, I'd go to a "boot doctor", I've had some amazing results after talking with experts while having my gear and feet present. Its important to think about all the issues beforehand and be as forthcoming as possible. Go to a mt that may have a place on site, which will provide you with the ability to test out modifications and report back. Sometimes the guys don't even ask for money, just be nice and throw them a tip. I've had J's and heel lifts put in that have changed my days and riding experiences completely. They can even help you understand how your bindings and stance can help with similar issues.

Best of luck.

FWIW I have small feet/heel hold problems as well. The K2 Maysis boot was good to me, but everyone's foot is different.

Like someone else mentioned you should go to your local shop and try on a bunch and buy the one that is the best fitting and gives the best hold. Also remember you can also buy those J bars to help fill out your ankle area and get better heel hold. I use j bars, and usually put a thin strip of ducttape over them too bc their adhesive has a tendency to wear out over time.

Right, depending on what level of protection you're after i'd say they offer 3 options:

Light - Bollé Tracker - https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Boll%C3%A9-Tracker-II-Safety-Goggles/dp/B003UGDQ66/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=bolle+cobra&qid=1570480416&sr=8-5

Medium - Bollé Cobra - https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Bolle-BOCOBFSPSI-Cobra-Safety-Goggles/dp/B006M0JPXK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=bolle+cobra&qid=1570480416&sr=8-1

Heavy - Bollé Pilopsi - https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Bolle-PILOPSI-Pilot-Safety-Goggle/dp/B000VDLP4G/ref=sxin__sxwds-bia-wc1_0?keywords=bolle&pd_rd_i=B000VDLP4G&pd_rd_r=88ef82f1-2d0d-497d-bf8f-d096c9daaeb0&pd_rd_w=jj1tZ&pd_rd_wg=8xq9b&pf_rd_p=2159348c-d23b-4602-b79a-23a554c807e1&pf_rd_r=77J11TG4AZ8BBWN8HXY7&psc=1&qid=1570480528

I've only really got experiences with the Tracker and Pilopsi. I found the trackers slightly uncomfortable myself but i do have a rather wide head which could explain that, my brother tried them out and found them very comfortable! The Pilopsi goggles i've worn every day in work for the past 3 years or so, with very heavy use and throwing them around the shop I've replaced them twice due to the rubber seal starting to denature a little bit I'm guessing from sweat but the lens is extremely durable!

Basically I may be biased but I'd go for the Pilopsi any day of the week, extremely comfortable, virtually no peripheral view obstruction, plus the best sealing from the 3 options above!

Hope this was handy for you, if you've got any other questions in the same area i'd be happy to answer! :)

Edit - the last link was wrong sorry, corrected!

Thank you! Of course, I'd be happy to help in any way I can.

The shield is actually a sled from Amazon, but it can be found on other sites too for about 25$.

While a dremel can be used, because of the extent of the sanding required I prefer some good old fashioned sanding sponges. Any mistakes that were made in the cutting can also be fixed here.

I used a Dewalt DW317K Jigsaw, and specifically a DM3778 Blade, though any blade that is small and fine will do nicely (the finer, the better).

The straps are belts with holes cut in them, and screws are simply glued onto the shield before a bolt is screwed in. This video explains what to do - it's not the most efficient way but the rest of the video can also be used as a guideline.

It probably took me a month and a half to two months, but I have been busy and had to take long hiatuses ranging up to three weeks at a time. You can probably buff the whole thing out in about two weeks (four days cutting and sanding), (four days painting), (two days attaching the straps), (two days repairing any mistakes and adding an optional gloss) with only an hour or two every night.

No need to apologize - your questions are great! PM me if you have any more! Best of luck friend.

Big ass snowboarding goggles.

Look for vented non-fogging goggles. They can get a little warm, but if you don't mind looking like a dork they are the best solution.

Something like:

http://www.rei.com/product/825000/smith-cascade-classic-snow-goggles <--- $28 USD

http://www.amazon.com/Oakley--Frame-Graphic-Vented-Goggles/dp/B002HMD11O/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1324332818&sr=1-2

or

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TOI06W/ref=asc_df_B001TOI06W1771862?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=nextagus0039202-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B001TOI06W



If you want to go super cheap and uncomfortable, $3.50 safety goggles from the hardware store are better than nothing, but they fog up, have rough edges and come in only one size.

Probably the Joan of Arctic Sorel boots (i loved them until they became super painful at the ankle) by way of Already Pretty (probably the only thing I ever liked on her) and this chenille cutter from my sewing/quilting blogs. I've made a number of baby blankets out of this and while it's exhausting in some ways, it's super adorable and works amazingly well.

You'll probably be renting most of your ski gear, so here are the warm items you'll want:

1. GLOVES. Since you're just going on vacation, get a moderately good pair that are waterproof, and buy some cheapo glove liners (example glove, example liner).
   
2. Scarf. Thick scarf preferably.
   
3. Balaclava (example here) - optional if your scarf is really good, but recommended.
   
4. Overpants (wear underarmour and jeans underneath). First time I went, I went to target and got a pair for about $15. (example here)
   
5. Beanie.
   
   Now my personal two most important, but expensive items:
   
   
6. Socks! Go to rei and get yourself a pair of these ski socks. Nothing is worse than freakishly cold feet, or feet that get destroyed by the crappy rental books. These socks are built to keep your feed warm and padded.
   
7. Jacket. Ok...here you can cheat a bit by layering. The 'real deal' would be to get something like this. OR, do what I did (and continue to do): underarmour + long sleeve shirt + sweater + rain jacket. Yeah, you don't have a good seal, and you'll end up getting snow on your clothes and be a bit cold by 2pm, but if you don't have hundreds of dollars for a ski jacket it's a good deal. Note: i've found that cheap ski jackets are garbage, and you will pay the price for them.
   
   Hope this helps! You can buy pretty much all this except for the jacket for under $100, and maybe even less if you're really thirfty. Helmet, boots, and skis should be taken care of by the rental folks.

I've been using mine for a couple winters now. So far it's the best solution. I have asthma that is really triggered by the cold. If I don't cover my face under like 35F, then I get wheezy. Neoprene masks don't really warm the air, and scaves and buffs get soaked and freeze to my face/beard if out too long. This thing works great and lets me breathe happy and keeps me warm even in a well ventilated helmet.

I did have to make a few mods to get it to work for me.

I added a few extra vent holes in the bottom with a leather punch since I live in a hilly area and with a bit of Athsma I needed to lessen the air restriction to allow me to exert myself
more on climbs without hyperventilating. Just two more holes about the same size as the existing ones did it. I also removed the adjustable restrictor on the front of the mask. This thing was made for more standing around or hiking then heavy breathing.

I also modified the top of the mask to avoid blowing hot air in my goggles. I made a lip that folds back in to the goggle out of duct tape around the inside of the nose piece to get a tighter seal and redirect air back down instead of upward, which reduced goggle fogging. It looks a lot more like a cpap or dust respirator mask on the inside with that lip. I've also got a huge beard which make the thing seal differently on my face (most likely). I thought about trying some sugru in the tip of the nose, but my current solution seems fine for now.

Last fix for my goggles to prevent fogging is to close off the vents on the bottom of the goggles with a touch of tape to stop my hot breath going in through the bottom as much. The part nearest my nose seemed to need it the most.

After my hacks, this is fog free, even when riding hard using oakley O-frame MX goggles. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HMD11O/

I think the balaclava version so much better I think for cycling than the wrap around, since you can typically put the mask on over your helmet straps on the balaclava version.

Already having a workbench will make it easy to tune gear. Two raised blocks to put the board on to make it easier to wax. Two clamps that can hold the board vertically so you can tune/de-tune your edges. A dedicated waxing iron, some scrapers, a big file, dustpan and brush, trashcan, and a little shop vac. If you want to provide wax you can buy a brick of hertel super hot sauce relatively cheap that will last for a long time. Also this is the boot dryer I use and it's awesome.

Do [these on Amazon](Demon Flexmeter Wrist Guards Double Sided, Large (Sold as Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K8ORA06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_JtQFDbPZF6PC5) look like the right ones? All the pictures I can find show the skid plate attached with velcro. Is there any way to tell if they’re the updated design?

Also, my sizing is right between Medium and Large according to the guide. Any advice on wether I should size up to Large or down to Medium?

Thanks for helping me better picture how supermaning could be pretty bad. Honestly, sounds a lot like high-siding. Thankfully I’ve never experienced that on a motorcycle (low-siding is waaaay more common), but I can definitely see how you’d want to take every precaution!

Have you had a look at the Bolle X800 or Bolle X810 goggles? They're ballistic rated goggles with the lens as a separate piece from the frame, allowing for great ventilation and they're pretty much impossible to fog. I'm the sort of person that fogs any and every kind of eye protection even with antifog and I've yet to fog my X810's! I'd highly recommend them! It's as close to a permanent solution as you can get.

I am shopping now in hopes of finding a good quality coat for next winter.

This is my prefered style and color, but i was hoping some one might be able to point me at a sale or discount on a $2-300 item that was deeply discounted.

Or, if some one can point at a better quality $80 coat, thats fine too.

pack layers and you can shed as needed: heres my layout

Base Layer:

I try to avoid cotton stuff cause of chafing, highly recommend exofficio if thats an issue.

runner leggings/thermal leggings

long sleeve work out material shirt/ thermal shirt

smartwool socks! smartwool is the best. I use it for backpacking too.

Second Layer:

arctix snow bibs from amazon : 40 (You want snow pants/bibs. getting snow all down your pants/up your back is awful.)

A flannel or other heavy shirt type

Third:

I have wantando jacket (70 from amazon) reeeealy warm. Hardly have worn it out and its been like 10-15 on the mountain. Id imagine I could wear it down to zero.

A lighter waterproof jacket incase the heavy jacket is too much.

Gloves: Get some nice waterproof insulated gloves and glove liners.

https://www.amazon.com/Arctix-Essential-Overall-3X-Large-Regular/dp/B003OIRLC0/

https://www.amazon.com/Wantdo-Waterproof-Mountain-Jacket-Windproof/dp/B00OA1B0Z4/

https://www.amazon.com/TM-YUT32-BLK_Medium-Tesla-WinterGear-Compression-Baselayer/dp/B076LW59GF/

https://www.amazon.com/Duofold-Weight-Wicking-Thermal-Medium/dp/B006SRTGC2/

https://www.amazon.com/OZERO-Winter-Gloves-30%C2%B0F-Coldproof/dp/B073191H74/

https://www.amazon.com/SmartWool-Trekking-Heavy-Socks-Medium/dp/B000UZDAZC/

If you got all of those youd be fine an any resort park

Of course you can! That's the best part about the internet! As much as I'd like to make one for you I don't think I'm going to turn this into a side business. I posted a link in this thread about the DIY reddit post and YouTube video I followed to make this and if you're serious about making one for yourself I'll be happy to pm you some tips I figured out along the way that aren't in the video or post.

Flexible Flyer Steel Saucer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N8WYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6kmrzb1666R86

Very cool idea! Though I'd probably just spring for something like this to make life easier... I have a love/hate relationship with corks. Also, thank you for posting that source... a lot of very cool ideas in there. :)

Sorel's!! I got the Joan of Arctic boots in Shale, they're clunky but you will never slip and fall in the snow with them. And they're waterproof. Plus I think they're super cute!

Something like this

Sorry, couldn't resist.

Look at slimline safety goggles they are available in lots of different styles and some have more ventilation than others.

Uvex variant.

Another Uvex

Bolle

More Bolle

Good luck.

I have this Toko iron and its worked well for me thusfar.

http://www.amazon.com/Toko-5547182-T8-Wax-Iron/dp/B001FEUCTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418297022&sr=8-1&keywords=toko+iron

I also use Hertel wax which you can also find on amazon and get quite a lot for a great price. I like it havent had a problem with my boards being slow.

http://www.amazon.com/Hertel-Super-Sauce-Temperature-Snowboard/dp/B000GAYNXO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418297084&sr=8-1&keywords=hertel+wax

I love this stuff:

Hertel Super HotSauce

Don't bother will different types unless you are looking into racing.

Any ski/snowboard waxing iron will do.

> Convertible mittens

Those are not warm. I find convertible mitten to be the worst of both worlds - the warmth of a glove, the dexterity of a mitten. If I'm not doing any rope work, I find that I can do most things in a mitten without removing it.

If you have the money, go with the the OR Alti Mitt. When it's super cold, it's what I wear. I can remove skins without taking them off, too. Alternatively, a shell like this or even this, with these as liners is as warm, but more durable, but bulkier, and heavier.

I have an 15 year old pair of OR mitten shells with a $20 pair of ragwool mittens as liners that I use and abuse all winter long. (I save the fancy, down-lined Alti mitt for the worst fo the worst, - Denali, Alaska Range in March, etc.)

Wither either approach, make sure you have them sufficiently large. Your hands will stay warmer with more airspace to circulate, particularly if also using a chemical hand heater. Which is also more convenient in a larger mitt because you can move them around.

Do not try wear a glove liner as the primary source of insulation. If you find that you occasionally need to remove a mitt and need something on your hand, wear a very light liner glove such as these under the mitt. I've even experimented with wearing a latex or nitrile glove. It doesn't insulate and feels a bit weird, but if the concern is wind when you have your mitts off, they work well.

Finally, look at your poles. Are they conducting heat away? I've never bothered with poles, but I've wrapped areas of my mountaineering axes with insulating tape to reduce conductive heat loss. Also, use good wrist straps will touring. If you're gripping onto the poles, you reduce blood flow. If you can have a nice, light grip assisted by wrist straps (I prefer the rubber ones to nylon), your hands will remain noticeably warmer.

Hertel super hotsauce wax. The best ever any temperature. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GAYNXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MDH9BbTB8DXBM

Another good tip, if you are going to be out on the ice during the questionable times, it is a great idea to carry a pair of ice picks ... It could be as simple as two nails tied together with a string and wear it around your neck.

It will exponentially increase the chances that you'll be able to pull yourself out of the water on your own. Which can be really difficult if you are already cold.

Also, avoid wearing things like Carhartt coveralls or other similarly thick coveralls because as soon as you fall into the water, they end up acting like an anchor keeping you in the water as they absorb water immediately.

For heel lift you can try j-bars. I got a pair of these and they help a ton.
http://www.amazon.com/J-Bars-Snowboard-Boot-Fitting-Eliminate/dp/B01B1ZLINU/

btw 32 (soon to be 33) y/o computer guy here, shred it up my friend :)

If you are EVER on ice that you suspect could be the least bit unsafe, PLEASE make sure you're wearing these. They have saved countless lives. If you're on a lake and the ice is a foot thick or more no, you probably don't need them. However, it's not uncommon to ice fish on 4-6 inches of ice with a snowmobile, or for people to xc ski on frozen rivers. Ice picks are the smartest thing you can carry on your person.

I have this bag and have no complaints. No outside padding for the boot sleeves, but I just have the bindings facing inwards always. Lasted 4-5 seasons now with no visible wear (ski ~15 days/season, with 1-2 plane trips). I actually throw my helmet and ski jacket/pants/socks in there too, nice snug fit & super convenient. But I bet most boot bags can do that. tl;dr it gets the job done

Demon Phantom Fully Padded Travel Snowboard Bag with Wheels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO4PFAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kZBwDb9GS79TP

I have this one and it fits my board and my wife’s with bindings on. But... my board is quite a bit longer so the offset/spacing of the bindings works with hers upside down. I don’t know if it would work with two similarly sized boards. And like others have said, it’s probably better and safer for your boards if you remove one of their bindings.

Hey there Bex. I have been thinking about this for ages now, and might be going for it the next couple of weeks. But the solution is to find something to mould a fiberglass body inside. People have suggested saucer sleds like this https://www.amazon.com/Snow-Sled-Saucer-Heavy-Black/dp/B00637PUOU. But personally i am going for a free craigslist sattalite dish.

I use SKS raceblades, which work great and are very easy to put on/take off in just a minute or 2. The Crud Roadracer 2 might interest you as well.

Overshoes really help to keep your feet *dry. They are more important without fenders as all the water hitting your down tube and BB will splash outward to the shoes.

For pants, I wear Helly Hansen overpants. There are no pockets and they breathable, but 100% sealed. Match that with a North Face rain jacket and I get to work 100% dry.

anyone tried one of these respirator masks?

how funny do they look? how effective are they? know of any other brands other than ColdAvenger that make similar products?

I have a narrower face and got these and they fit and worked great: http://www.amazon.com/Bolle-Goggles-Shiny-Black-Clear/dp/B0038ZYRGC

you get cold masks in neoprene which heats the air, and more advanced ones like this http://www.amazon.com/Talus-Outdoor-Technologies-ColdAvenger-Mask/dp/B001SARMZW/ref=sr_1_8?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1382695287&sr=1-8&keywords=cold+mask

Try looking at webshops that sell XC skis etc, they might have some they recommend.

Thanks! I use the HangTime mount. It's pretty sturdy once you find the wall stud.

I have almost a full squad using them and they hardly ever fog with the top foam removed. If you are at all worried about fog I suggest getting this: http://www.wide-i.com/delta.php

The other option is to get a goggle like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bolle-Safety-X800i-Tactical-Goggles/dp/B003ICKCJQ

Which has a lens slightly lifted off the frame which allows a ton of airflow. One guy on my squad uses these and says they're fantastic.

The first thing that comes to mind when thinking about how I'd do this is to repurpose one of those saucer sleds!

Great work by the way, it must have taken a long time!

Yep, those are great wrist guards. I used these while I was convalescing and they were even more protective, but a bit too heavy duty for warm weather:

https://www.amazon.com/Demon-Snow-Flexmeter-Wrist-Guard/dp/B00K8ORA06/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1523281903&sr=1-1&keywords=flexmeter+wrist+guard&dpID=51gUlS7efZL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

http://www.amazon.com/HangTime-Snowboard-Wall-Mount-Black/dp/B001N84J9G

I got these myself, and I love them!

If you source the pieces yourself you can get what you need. You usually don't need everything that comes in a kit. Buy the additional pieces as you need them.

Here's what I found without much effort:

$35 iron

$23 wax (huge brick)

$6 scraper

$14 nylon brush

$6 scotch brite sponges

That's $84 and is all you need to get started. You can certainly get kits for around the same price that include some edge tuning bits, but they also come with a very small amount of wax and surprisingly often they don't include any brushes, or just a wire brush.

The Athalon "Everything" bag is the bomb. $69 (lol) and comes in a ton of colors. Fits everything.

https://www.amazon.com/Athalon-EVERYTHING-BOOT-BAG-BACKPACK/dp/B001ASHA68/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1DHMQ3VL3SUEC&keywords=ski+boot+bag&qid=1569511799&s=gateway&sprefix=ski+boot+b%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-8

I started using these last winter- [N-4B Mittens] (http://www.amazon.com/N-4B-U-S-Military-Arctic-Mitts/dp/B000J38CZ8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1414907618&sr=8-5&keywords=air+force+mittens) . These are great and you can wear a pair of gloves inside them if needed.

When I was learning, I fell three times. One was a nosedive because I accelerated from zero too fast. Two, was a wheelslip when I was experimenting with a really loose setting. Helmet really saved my dome on that one. Three was a wobbly patch of road at an intersection that threw me off. I'd say that was all within the first 80 miles. I've gone another hundred without a fall and think it's basically thanks to a narrow, close-to-the-wheel stance.

For gear, I say get all of it. Helmet, elbows, wrists, knees, maybe even padded undershorts if you don't want hip bruises. BUT, realistically you can go with just helmet and wrists if you know the route. I go about 1.2 miles to work on a dedicated bike path and most of the time, knees and elbows feel a bit like overkill. But I say that knowing falls can sneak up on you. You can't predict what cars and other pedestrians will do. For wrists, I grabbed these and really like them. Gloves protect the skin, but I'm worried about bones.

https://handelshusetaulum.dk/webshop/628-briller/7469-bolle-tactical-x800iii-briller/

It's a Danish shop though. But I'm sure you should be able to find a shop near you. :)

Edit: found an amazon link. Go nuts.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bolle-X800I-ultra-ventilated-nylon-Black/dp/B003ICKCJQ

It's just a child's sled with the straps moved. You can see the original holes for the handles.

Amazon has a metal version for half the price.

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Flyer-Saucer-Slider-Stadium/dp/B0006N8WYM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sled+round+snow&qid=1568230862&s=gateway&sr=8-3

How "cheap" are you talking?

There are $15 snow goggles on Amazon, but without knowing your budget, it's hard to give advice.

Let me know your budget and I can help you find something.

Just buy a this instead of the stadium. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006N8WYM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 its cheaper and better. ( You will need to modify it a little)

Thank man! I use these to mount my board.

https://www.amazon.com/HangTime-Snowboard-Wall-Mount-Black/dp/B001N84J9G

More like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Frabill-Deluxe-Retractable-Ice-Picks/dp/B004D1PUTS

The screwdrivers sound like a down home equivalent but you can also make your own with some dowels and nails, and they will float.

I use this face mask, and it has the benefit of making you look like Darth Vader.

I have a pair of these rain pants. They keep me dry and button at the bottom so I don't have to worry about the chain. I also use them in the winter over my work pants when I ride to work to keep the snow out and to keep warm.

I've gone through a ton of rain gear, but I've found a winning combo:

Bellwether Screaming Meemie Jacket

and

Helly Hansen Men's Voss Pant

I commute in dress clothes and they both keep me completely dry and don't crumple my clothes too much. They don't breathe so keep your pace leisurely.

*I put my dress shoes and socks in my bag and wear flip-flops when riding.

I used to have my snowboard wall mounted. I took off the bindings to let the board seem more like art. I used these which worked well
https://www.amazon.com/HangTime-Snowboard-Wall-Mount-Black/dp/B001N84J9G/ref=sr_1_3?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1496414102&sr=1-3&keywords=snowboard+wall+mount

The only problem is when moving out they left large holes in the wall

I bought this Bolle's cheap goggle. $16 shipped with prime.

Last week, high was high 25 and low 5. On the way home, it was prob. mid teens. It worked pretty well, but it was my first time to use it. So, the sample size is small.

Paint a sled?

Flexible Flyer Metal Snow Disc Saucer Sled. Steel Sand Slider https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N8WYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kqVEDbSBD615T

I usually just use my brush after a rub-on. Works fine for me. I've been using this stuff for years. It works for all temps and either cold or hot application. https://smile.amazon.com/Hertel-Super-Sauce-Temperature-Snowboard/dp/B000GAYNXO

I have two pairs of ski goggles. One has colored lenses for daytime and the other is clear for night. I figure that most people think I look ridiculous running in the winter anyway so why not use something that works.

These are the ones that I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Bolle-Goggles-Shiny-Black-Clear/dp/B0038ZYRGC/ref=sr_1_2?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1482257350&sr=1-2&keywords=bolle+ski+goggles

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bolle-TRACPSI-Tracker-Safety-Goggles/dp/B003UGDQ66/ref=sr_1_2?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1483885157&sr=1-2&keywords=bolle+safety+glasses

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Boll%C3%A9-COBFSPSI-Bolle-Safety-Goggles/dp/B006M0JPXK/ref=sr_1_11?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1483885157&sr=1-11&keywords=bolle+safety+glasses

Those are clones of the rather expensive Bolle X800, but as said I would get them from a brand other than Lancer Tactical. The Save Phace version is made in the USA.

Not the same but there's these

If its because of cold, you could wear this thing: https://www.amazon.com/ColdAvenger-Pro-Softshell-Face-Mask/dp/B001SARMZW. It will make for a very humid environment around your nose/mouth (also available as a balaclava).

I guess you could also try putting chapstick or some other waxy thing (Burts Bee's maybe) on your nose?

http://www.amazon.com/Hertel-Super-Sauce-Temperature-Snowboard/dp/B000GAYNXO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418606273&sr=8-1&keywords=hertel+super+hot+sauce

3/4 pound brick for $21. Plenty of wax jobs!

http://www.amazon.com/HangTime-Snowboard-Wall-Mount-Black/dp/B001N84J9G/ref=pd_sim_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1V8T2J4K6MDDQ1YY8F9B

Bern Watts EPS - https://www.rei.com/product/131564/bern-watts-eps-bike-helmet-mens $30

Demon Flexmeter- https://www.amazon.com/Demon-Snow-Flexmeter-Wrist-Guard/dp/B00K8ORA06?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

I just use Hertel on normal/warm days and a cold temp wax on cold days.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bolle-TRACPSI-Tracker-Safety-Goggles/dp/B003UGDQ66/ref=sr_1_3?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1479206312&sr=1-3&keywords=bolle+safety+glasses

or

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Boll%C3%A9-COBFSPSI-Bolle-Safety-Goggles/dp/B006M0JPXK/ref=sr_1_18?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1479206312&sr=1-18&keywords=bolle+safety+glasses

I own both and can vouch for their quality.

What do people think of these? They are a third of the price and slightly lighter:

https://www.amazon.com/Helly-Hansen-Mens-Black-Large/dp/B002N19PBE/ref=cm_wl_huc_item?th=1&psc=1

I use these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003ICKCJQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and never have an issue with fogging. Plus I also use these with a helmet.

What did you use to hang it? I don't have space to store mine, so I want to make a feature of them on the wall. I'm looking at these, but I'm not sure how secure they'd be.

I ride at Brighton, and have been waxing my own board for years. I use Hertels,
an old iron, and a credit card. I've got no complaints.

> but she lives in Minnesota

Exhibit A.

Exhibit B.

No excuses! :P