Reddit mentions: The best aaa batteries

Lucky you living near an Ikea, those batteries test well. Same with the Costco ones but I don't live near one of those either.

For AAs I use the Kodak Xtralifes and for AAAs I use the Duracell Procells because they were cheap on Amazon and also test pretty well. I hate buying batteries at the store when I need them, you pay like 3x as much ($9 for 4 Ds, ok) so I try to buy decent ones in bulk that way they're here when I need them. Really wish the battery manufacturers would start listing some actual information on the package instead of just saying ultimate super or whatever, which is why I really like that battery test site. But yeah for a calculator who cares, anything should last a while in there. I just like nice batteries because I prefer my flashlights to stay bright and always be ready when I need them.

Not the guy you're asking but here are my thoughts. There is pretty much no penlight on the market that will do what he wants, and it will be laughably ineffective regardless. If he needs something tiny, get him a Streamlight Stylus USB. That's gonna be about the brightest thing you can get with any ""tactical"" potency.

If you can talk him into a 14500 or 18650 light then he's more likely to get the power he wants. If he can handle having a solid chunk of aluminum on him, the Streamlight ProTac 2L-X and Wowtac A1S BSS v3 are going to be my choices for an inexpensive strobe machine. The Olight M1X Striker is another choice in this general form factor.

Streamlight also makes the ProTac 1L-AA which is a little smaller, but it only puts out 350 lumens.

All the lights I have posited outside the Stylus USB have easy access to the strobe mode, typically a double or triple tap on the tail switch. This is important to my mind because many lights require the light to be on and a button to be held for one second - practically useless and too long to get to if really needed.

I really hope that he does a big long think about what he wants out of this flashlight, and I hope he tries to "stun" himself with his flashlight to see what its like to be on the receiving end. The reaction he has, being prepared for it, is the best he can hope for in any situation in which he uses the strobe against someone. Its not like in the TacLight commercials.

I wrote a couple more of my thoughts on using a flashlight for self defense a little while ago if you find it handy. I personally like having the strobe and I would use it in an emergency situation, but its very important to note its limitations.

> I'm also impressed that they support using a lithium battery without hurting the light (maybe that's a function of the newer LEDs?).

All AAA lights that I know of can run on a disposable lithium AAA like the Energizer L92. They're meant to be voltage-compatible with alkalines and only start off a tenth of a volt or so higher. As those are expensive and non-rechargeable, I would generally only recommend them for emergency devices which are stored for a long time and rarely used. Their shelf life and capacity are excellent, but NiMH rechargeables are preferable for daily use.

The D25aaa can also use 10440 lithium-ion rechargeable batteries, which are 4.2 volts at full charge instead of the 1.5 volts of an alkaline. The total energy stored in these is about the same as an NiMH AAA, but the higher voltage allows for greater light output in exchange for shorter runtime. Some lights are 3-4 times as bright when using this battery. Some lights are fully-functional with these. Some work, but can't access lower modes. Some are damaged by the higher voltage.

The LED has little to do with it. Most LEDs used in flashlights want 3-4 volts for the amount of current the driver circuit provides. It's the driver sensitive to extra voltage. Lights using a single 1.5 volt battery have a boost driver that increases the voltage to the amount the LED needs, regulates current and provides a means of controlling brightness, either by changing the current limit or blinking the LED rapidly. On some of these, an electronic component, usually the microcontroller can't handle too much voltage. On others, the driver simply doesn't handle the situation where input voltage is greater than the desired output voltage very well.

Lights intended for higher voltage battery configurations often have very different driver circuits that output less voltage than the battery supplies, or that don't change the voltage at all. Some have sophisticated circuits that can handle several different situations comfortably.

Currently using the GPW and G305 (use them pretty much equal, if I'm having a bad game I'll switch). My S2 arrived Tuesday, and it's on it's way back today lmao. Shape isn't bad it's too small for me (19.5cm x 10.5xm hands). That said despite the shape, it really did suck going back to a wired mouse haha. I don't have a bungee and I forget how annoying it was to constantly have to rewrap my wire around my desk and tug on it in case it fell off the back of the table.

Additionally, even though I did like the shape of S2, the glossy coating is retarded. My hands would feel disgusting like I just came in my hand and ate a bag of potato chips. Then without even washing my hand I would place it on my gpw and instantly feel clean. You can see it too, my S2 looks far grosser after 2 days than my g102 did after 2 years. I also felt really silly paying $70 for a mouse that from a technical standpoint is inferior to my $50 g305 in every singe way. Even my $27 g102 feels higher quality than the s2 in terms of buttons, wheel and material. Don't worry about sensor, 3360/hero is overkill and I never noticed anything going from Mercury to Hero.

On top of that instead of using amazon prime and having 2 days turnarounds tops it takes 8 days to recieve from Zowie direct. First impression of Zowie, the shapes ARE GOOD, but not really not that special and in no way make up for their mediocre quality and being overpriced. Like yeah, despite being too small for me I did like the shape of the s2, but I didn't like it any better than my g305 or gpw, it was just different.

When I got my $130 g pro wireless I didn't feel like I got ripped off at all. When I felt how sturdy yet light it was, and saw how long the rechargeable battery lasted, I knew I had paid a high price for a high quality product. I have the complete opposite feeling with Zowie.

So in conclusion get the GPW. Better yet, if you're already using the g203, get a g305 for less than half the price. Get these battery shellshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with these lithium ion batteries

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYWKBRB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the mouse will weight EXACTLY THE SAME as the g102.

I know using nonrechargeable can be lame, but I've been using the g203 for a month now and the battery still shows full bars.

Like I said I use gpw and g305, and I honestly feel like I play better with the g305, I'm just so used to the shape after going from a g100s, to a g203 to this over the past 4 years. Despite the shape I still use the GPW too because it's hard NOT to aim well with a large wireless 80g mouse.

Note: I'm not a flashlight geek, just lurking - but I feel compelled to point out some things from that perspective...

You're talking about an AAA pen light (1 or 2 AAAs, right?) so there's pretty close to zero chance of it being what anyone would consider "high performance." If you want maximal light output you'd be way way way better off picking a different type of light with a more robust power source.

But for AAAs it's really not too hard : Alkalines for cheap, LSD NiMh for a rechargeable option, or Lithium for special use cases. Ignore "Heavy Duty" batteries except maybe in desperation or for nostalgia. There really aren't other options readily available for AAAs.

FWIW, I'm currently using a Coast G19 which I like a lot compared to the generic crap I've previously used. It's bright enough and well focused (almost zero spill), tough enough to get stepped on etc. - and I've even managed to get it back from everyone who has borrowed it. (so far)

Battery-wise, I took a coupon to the local Harbor Freight store and picked up a pack of $3.99/24 AAA alkalines. I used two in a wireless mouse. When it reported a low battery level I took them out and put one in my light. It's been working for occasional use well over 6 months, with no signs of giving up yet. I think it'll be hard to beat that. (except maybe for using the 9Volts I remove annually from smoke detectors with one of these

If I was in very-low-temp conditions, cared a lot about saving weight, or couldn't easily replace the battery and needed high reliability (long wilderness trips?) I'd use a disposable lithium AAA - like these from Energizer … at about 10x the cost of alkalines.

Using NiMh, I've had "mixed" experience with performance, but that's probably because I was using super-cheap lights. If my light happens to disappear after being "borrowed" I'd just as soon not lose a good battery too. But if I used my light super frequently, and wanted to give two shits about the environment, they'd probably be a decent choice.

Anyway - hope that helps some.

The AAA is the better option. You still get pretty much the same battery life and you save weight.

Here’s what I believe are the lightest AAAs you can buy and here’s the adapters you’ll need to use them. I like that kit because it comes with 12 adapters (so you can also switch things like your TV remotes and household wall clocks over to cheap AAA and save some cash in the long run) and also the storage case that’s included is actually pretty nice.

If you’re in the US and you’re interested in swapping the shell over to a 3D printed version with honeycomb holes then let me know and I’ll share the link where you can buy them already printed.

I used to be a G502 palm user at 18.5x9 but took a chance on the small ambidextrous g305 and while at first use it felt a bit odd this mouse has just been fucking incredible for me. I can't get away from it, I have tried to use other ergonomic mice and just cant, they never feel as natural to me. I did switch my grip up to a more claw shape and that made it just as comfortable as ergo.

I also have had it for about 3 months now and it is still at 100% charge...I mean what black magic fuckery did Logitech use on this mouse?

I have since recommended it to friends and they love its shape and weight. If you do go for the g305 I suggest picking up these two items from amazon: AAA converter - Energizer Ultimate Lithium AAA Batteries.

This will save on weight and it doesn't seem to hurt the battery life at all.

This is a great mouse and everything, but 90%+ gamers are probably going to get a lot more value out of a Logitech G305 (not currently on sale) with a Lithium AAA and half of a AAA to AA adapter to keep it snug, it's light with a great modern sensor, the wired Pros body form, and great battery life (even with that mentioned AAA battery).

I realize a lot of people know about this, but I figure it's worth mentioning all the same. If money is no issue for you though, by all means, you'll be happy with the Pro wireless too. But this isn't a great sale on it to begin with.

>I recently bought a play and charge kit from eBay...the battery won't charge...Does anyone have a solution?

if the item was sold as new and/or in working condition, return it. eBay has pretty favorable buyer protection. if it was sold as-is, you are out of luck.

in addition to a stand-alone charging station, your choices are as follows:

• buy a genuine Microsoft play and charge kit, which will have a (short) warranty.
  
  
• buy four (or more) rechargeable AA batteries and a charger.
  
  
• buy a ton of AA batteries.
  
  All three of those choices are around $15 delivered (assuming you are in the USA).

I have a little weather station clock that I love, but is also picky about voltage. With fully charged Ni-MH cells, it looks dim and after a month or so is totally unreadable. Alkalines do better. The display is crisp for a number of weeks, but then starts to dim and becomes unreadable in a couple of months as the voltage in the cells declines. Last year I switched to LiFeS2 batteries (Energizer Ultimate Lithium) and it has been running perfectly ever since. Lithium primary batteries have a bit higher voltage throughout their life cycle than alkalines, and it seems to be just what my weather station/clock likes. I know this is not a direct answer to your question, but if all else fails, it might be worth a try.

edit: Here is a link to the lithium primary batteries that worked for me.

Yep hopefully these batteries are awesome EBL 1100mAh Super Capacity AAA Rechargeable Batteries, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011KYJ9MY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2cF3BbG382SAN

you can use 14500's and a dummy cell to recharge them as well, which is under $20 in cost. Or, you could use four/eight amazon batteries and a recharger, for $20/$30.

>It seems like you would barely break even costwise by the end of the rechargable battery life.

Going off of the first pack of AAs I found on Amazon that are name brand, which is 48 cells for $20, you're implying that four NiMH cells will die by then. Given that four units from Eneloop batteries (Eneloop Pros are what the Amazon High Capacity cells are comparable to, so this is a worse case) have a rated 2100 cycle count, even assuming they lose 50% of their capacity by then and only the first 1050, or even 525 cycles are usable (which is false, ALL the cycles will be of significant use, mine last me multiple sessions), you would need WELL OVER 48 batteries to outperform AAs, and 14500s are likely a similar story.

I've replaced the battery twice, once before starting the JMT and another time before a motorcycle tour up to Alaska. I've never seen the battery life indicator come up and I'd always use it in 5 minute tracking. I don't actually know how long the battery last, but if I'd have to guess, about a year with heavy use. You have to use lithium AAA's though. They maintain their voltage for the life of the device.

>Though, won't help me much against the griz and lions, but maybe if I break something lol...

Ha! I hear you. I was on a bike when I encountered a grizzly and her cubs and totally felt safe. The mountain lion was on a trail and staring right at me. That was actually actually concerning. The tracking is nice just in case they needed to find the body. I typically have people look at the tracking page sporadically and they know what to do if they see I haven't moved for too long.

AA, but you can get rechargeable AAs for pretty cheap anyway.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FJBDVIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FoOVCbD38BTT4?th=1&psc=1

FIX FOR HEAVY WEIGHTED PEN: =============================

Since most of the pen weight is comming from the AAA battery which I'm assuming is an alkaline cell, you probably can reduce pen weight by getting a lighter Lithium Ion battery.

There are two assumptions that I'm making here: pen battery is regular alkaline rechargeable and the voltage is 1.5v. If I'm wrong and it's actually Lithium, voltage could be as high as 3.4V. Someone with a multimeter can check this out. If I buy pad, I'll update.

So, supposing my assumptions are correct, you need to make sure that you have the right voltage before looking for lighter battery as lithium AAA comes in 1.5 and 3.4v. You also need to make sure the lithium AAA is 44mm high because.

Looking into it, I found typical LiIon weight was about 33% to 66% of the weight of the typical NiMH/alkaline ones.

Pack of 5 duracels non-rechargeable alkaline weigh 114g including packaging (home depot). Pack of 5 energizer non-rechargeable Li-Ion weigh 41g (amazon).

duracel alk AAA weight/cell = 18-21g (depending on packaging weight) energizer Li-Ion AAA weight = 5-8g (depends of packaging) rechargeable Lion weight = 9-12g (found on Amazon)

These don't state whether they are rechargeable or not but could be worth it if they don't drain too fast just for the light weight consideration (5-8g 1.5v):
https://www.amazon.ca/Energizer-Ultimate-Lithium-L92BP-4-Battery/dp/B0002DUQDQ

Sunlabz Rechargeable (8-11.3g/cell, 1.2v) https://www.amazon.com/SunLabz-1000mAh-NiMH-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00J18PFIO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478843835&sr=8-3&keywords=AAA%2Blithium%2Brechargeable&th=1

Seems to me the lower the capcity, the lighter it's going to be.

YOU'RE WELCOME!

Favorite all-around: https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-66608-Flashlight-Micro-Stream/dp/B07DLZXZV1

Keychain favorite: https://www.batteryjunction.com/titanium-keylight.html#reviews

2nd favorite keychain: https://www.batteryjunction.com/inmi2wigrblb.html

Eveready 1212 (aaa carbon zinc super heavy duty, 4 pack, 9 bucks) are typically 7.4 grams.

The Energizer L92 (aaa lithium battery, 4 pack, 9 bucks) has a typical weight of 7.6g, and here's an 8 pack for 12 bucks. The L91 (aa battery) weighs 14.5 grams.

^(It also keeps going and going and going and ...)

I use amazon basic batteries. iirc they're just rebranded Eneloops batteries and those are pretty much the go to. I opted for the high capacity varation as they're 2400mAh instead of 2000mAh like the standard version. It's only like a dollar more for the added capacity so it seemed worth it to me

I got this bundle. Got an 8 pack because I wanted 2 batteries for my touch controllers and 2 for my xbox controller while the other 4 would be charged and ready to be swapped in when the batteries in either controller died https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FJBDVIM/

I've been carrying the LED Lenser MT7 LINK for the past 3 or so months. I love it.

It has fully variable focus with the most minimal dark spots/rings from focusing, and an assortment of modes (and a setting for it to only enable FULL/STROBE or FULL/low settings, rather than going through all the other modes (automated SOS and slow strobe).

I really rather love this little flashlight, but it does enjoy its AAAs (4x at a time). I would suggest buying the Duracell Procell batteries (essentially Duracell coppertops, but packaged and priced for commercial/industrial use). LINK

Have this mouse and love it. Pro-tip: buy lithium AAA batteries and use a single one with a AAA to AA adapter. Makes the mouse <100g weight; amazing for those of us with really low dpi.

Specifically I use this combination and get 100 hours + playtime on a single battery.

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Ultimate-Lithium-Batteries-Count/dp/B06ZYWKBRB/ref=sr_1_3?crid=RL8TO6P0PCXX&keywords=aaa%2Blithium%2Bbatteries&qid=1566184348&s=gateway&sprefix=aaa%2Blithium%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-3&th=1


https://www.amazon.com/LAMPVPATH-Battery-Adapter-Converter-adapter/dp/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=aaa+to+aa+converter&qid=1566184360&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I also use Eneloops and AmazonBasics and honestly they seem to be pretty similar. Amazon sells the AmazonBasics AA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (4-Pack) and Ni-MH AA & AAA Battery Charger With USB Port Set for $26.

Olight AAA or a Streamlight 66608 if you need a clip.

The Nitecore Tube is really cool with it's infinite ramping. I loved mine till I lost it camping. But no pocket clip.

Hadn't seen the RovyVon before not sure how much faith I'd have in the little wire clip but otherwise looks like a solid option.

Awesome. Thank you.

Streamlight 66608 250 Lumen Microstream USB Rechargeable Flashlight with 5" USB Cord Clamshell Packaging, Coyote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_bNl1DbXJZJT4B

Do you ever plan on getting into Lithium-Ion lights? This is really important because I don't want to recommend you a NiMH charger when I could recommend a Li-Ion/NiMH charger for a slightly higher cost.

As for AA batteries, there's EBL which I had good experience with it when I used them for my last job. Considering the $1 difference though, I would opt for Eneloops. You're getting a high quality battery that has over 2000 recharge cycles. Imagine how much 2000 AAA Alkaline batteries would cost and that's how much you'll be saving? You'll be set for over 22 years with a 4 pack of Eneloop batteries if you went through a full drain a day.

Thanks for the quick reply. And great question!

I'll be using these predominantly for camping. So, probably one weekend a month for 6 out of every 12 months.

Most of my gear takes either AAA or AA or CR123. Right now I have a full stock of everything but AAA. And I'll need 12 batteries for each outing.

I've gone out in the woods recently and failed to bring extra batteries. The appeal of rechargeables, allow me to be more confident before going out into the wild for a weekend.

I found a two options:

A battery recharge kit with 12 rechargeable batteries for about $22

[Recharge Kit - $10](EBL 8 Bay AA, AAA, Ni-MH, Ni-Cd Rechargeable Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EB7812C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T8R6xb5WA9P3B)

[Rechargeable Batteries - 12 pack $12](EBL AAA 800MAH Rechargeable Battery (12 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EV1D7MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x9R6xb8TNM4CG)

Or

[36 Pack AAA $10](AmazonBasics AAA Performance Alkaline Batteries (36-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LH3DMUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9iP6xbS3GXYWJ)

The lightest one with the best battery life would be a A675 Hearing Aid button cell. Such a Buttoncell with 660mAh should last 110 hours on paper and a otherwise stock G305 weighs about 70g with this mod.

Soldering would be required though since you would have to replace the AA Batteryholder.

EDIT: No, using other batteries does not affect the performance of the G305 and it does not harm it. I'd recommend going for a Lithium AAA battery since it's the lightest AAA afaik.

Thanks for the info! This is what I plan on getting at the moment https://images-ext-1.discordapp.net/eyJ1cmwiOiJodHRwczovL2kuZ3lhem8uY29tL3RodW1iLzEyMDAvXzQ1MTM1NjdlOTZlNTBkODhlMGJhNWVkODNiMDVmNDJiLXBuZy5qcGcifQ.0K_lCLnlF_dbo2yCunnvYPuz7_Q
I just figured I would either get rechargable AA's on Amazon, are they not worth it or should I just get it straight off of Ultrasabers? Also, is the AV vs Guarded switch thing not a big of a deal as I make it out to be? I want it as a display piece in my room and don't know if it really will bother me that much.
Edit: Batteries like these https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Capacity-Rechargeable-Batteries-Pre-charged/dp/B01FJAPXJI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482814495&sr=8-3&keywords=rechargeable%2Baa%2Bbatteries&th=1

I just got a streamlight micro-stream. At 250 lumens it’s not super powerful, but it’s usb rechargeable or takes a triple A battery so power isn’t an issue. About as thick as a sharpie marker and maybe has as long, love it so far. I know it comes in a burnt bronzey color

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-66608-Flashlight-Micro-Stream/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=pd_aw_fbt_469_img_2/131-7718342-7786746?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07DLZXZV1&pd_rd_r=50bc7d98-d190-4025-95a8-7b605e00cf47&pd_rd_w=f3ehg&pd_rd_wg=837j7&pf_rd_p=6e6afc8a-fbbd-4649-97cf-4e08f5113612&pf_rd_r=DPR4JMM1VDGGMT3EWMH3&psc=1&refRID=DPR4JMM1VDGGMT3EWMH3

Amazon? They're pretty common.

If you want some real cool stuff though, go see what /r/flashlight can do with some 18650's.

Since you didn't get any good answers, here you go:

Go to Mountain Electronics. They are the only USA distributor of WindyFire IMR batteries.

Grab:

• 3x WindyFire 14500 IMR button top
  
• 1x XTAR MC1 Charger.
  
• Including Shipping and tax, that's $16.32.
  
  Still not sure how to find a 1x dummy battery on the cheap though.
  Ebay has them for like $5.50,
  and Amazon for $7.
  If you find some with quick shipping and and cheap let me know. You can get them in bulk though in huge quantities on ebay for like $2-3 dollars more which is weird.

the original nicds were like 20-80mill amp. you can get 150mah nimh cells they are AAA 1/3

https://www.amazon.com/Dantona-Single-3AAA-150NM-NT-Nickel-Hydride/dp/B06XKBZCSQ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=AAA+1%2F3+nimh&qid=1571073032&sr=8-2

​

you can also get 170mah nimh

​

when on charge you will need to recharge it a 4-5 times off the charger from drained. however your run time will be epic.

​

now usually the nicds have leaked badly so you will need to do a good clean up on the internal terminals.

some of these batteries are soldered in place some are not depends on who in china made them.

the reason the batteries go really bad in these is because there is no On/Off Switch. the battery is under constant drain even when dead. expect to have about 1 year of good battery life on replacement after that unless constantly recharged the batteries will just go bad again and leak.

micro terrains was the only company that was smart enough to install an on/off switch on the last generation sold in the USA.

​

if you want better versions of these i recommend the TOMY Bitchar-g or the american version microsizers.

microsizers was a rebrand of the TOMY version with improvements. the last generation sold as microsizers PRO and included 2 speed throttle(normal and turbo) which helped control of the little guys.

Bit and micro all had available hopups where you could alter tires/suspension/gear rations to tune the cars how you liked.

some websites:

http://tinyrc.com/qfm/racing/index.htm custom modifications listed on left side menu

​

enjoy :D

​

oh there are also tracks available for these which was used in competition. we raced these heavily in the very early 2000s. i still have tons of these and all the accessories.

these can be put directly inside the game gear and they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3MCCA4BA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable/dp/B07QYFCZJR?th=1

Great deal on a 48 pack

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I thought about this! I had an old electric motor car that actually came with a AA battery "spacer" -- just a plastic housing with a solid metal wire in the center to complete the circuit. I wonder if anyone sells something like that...

EDIT:

Hey, look at that!

https://www.amazon.com/Placeholder-Cylinder-Conductor-Electric-Batteries/dp/B010NE8LQ2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479772687&sr=8-2&keywords=aa+battery+spacer

Or maybe the acid in them isn’t too strong?

Here’s the product: AmazonBasics AAA Performance... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LH3DMUO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

thanks!

https://smile.amazon.com/Streamlight-66608-Flashlight-Micro-Stream/dp/B07DLZXZV1/?tag=parametrek-20

It's almost certainly less than that, these ones from Amazon say they're 400mAh, but I'm not sure I even trust that. You'd be much better off just getting regular rechargeable batteries and a separate battery charger. For example here's a set of eight NiMh AAA batteries that supposedly have 1000 mAh (yeah, right), that come with a charger and they're half the price of the four I linked above.

Eneloops are Panasonic's brand name for their NiMH cells (much like Kleenex to facial tissue). Every time I see someone review NiMH cells, Eneloops come out on top. Panasonic also sells cells to Amazon and Ikea who put their own label on them.

It also helps that they're $17 for 4 with a charger on Amazon. That said, since I think you need 6 cells, here's the Amazon rewrap version with 8 cells and a charger for $33.

​

If you want to retain stock firing rate, I'd stick with the stock spring. Their improved current capabilities will make the system snappier, but they're probably not powerful enough to run a 6 kg spring at stock ROF.

Thanks man. Always wanted to try a microstream.

Streamlight 66608 250 Lumen Microstream USB Rechargeable Flashlight with 5" USB Cord Clamshell Packaging, Coyote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7NfpDbZ71ETFZ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cg9RDbV9PFN3T

The added recharchability would be a nice feature to have so I dont gotta replace batteries.

I’d like to try a Streamlight micro stream!


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_XKx1DbYX3P49X

Streamlight Microsstream

Thank you for doing this!

Amazon - Streamlight USB in Tan

Thank you for doing this giveaway again!

Thank you!

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-66608-Flashlight-Micro-Stream/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_rm?ac_md=3-1-c3RyZWFtbGlnaHQ%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=olight&pd_rd_i=B07DLZXZV1&pd_rd_r=2b11bc02-81a0-42ac-9bca-adec1c2ee422&pd_rd_w=1Sna4&pd_rd_wg=ZhMPG&pf_rd_p=404c4843-2c96-4d0d-a5fe-2b0598693e61&pf_rd_r=KVVPZHDRVWVZFZCTFPBQ&qid=1568729429&s=gateway

Links to items. If there isn't a separate link to purchase then they can be purchased from the manufacturers website.

Outside of the belt:

• Alien Gear Cloak Tuck IWB with nylon clips
  
  
• Golla Mobile cell phone wallet
  
  
• Kydex pocket holster
  
  
  Belt:
  
  
• Daltech Force SuperBio Belt
  
  
  Inside belt, clockwise from noon/top:
  
  
• S&W Shield 9mm (no safety) (Purchase) carrying 9 rounds (8+1) of Winchester PDX-1 124 grain +P (Purchase)
  
  
• LG Octane (Purchase)
  
  
• Keys
  
  • Ignition key and remote for Chevy Trailblazer (Purchase) connected to the rest of the keys by a Nite-Ize S-Biner
    
    
  • resqme car escape tool
    
    
  • SOG Key Knife in blue
    
    
  • House key
    
    
  • Work keys
    
    
• Streamlight MicroStream (Purchase)
  
  
• Sypderco Endura FFG in blue (Purchase)
  
  
• Leatherman Squirt PS4 in blue
  
  
• Items carried in the Golla case
  
  • Mini Sharpie (Purchase)
    
    
  • Extra battery for flashlight (Purchase)
    
    
  • Nitrile gloves (Purchase)
    
    
  • Chapstick
    
    
  • Small piece of blue shop towel (Purchase)
    
    
  • Allstate insurance card
    
    
  • Extra cash
    
    
  • Band-Aids (Purchase)
    
    
  • Ambu Mini CPR mask (Purchase](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BEPCNFU))
    
    
  • Gorilla Tape (Purchase) wrapped around an old plastic card (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007M413BC)
    
    
    Not pictured: Tri-fold John Deere Wallet containing cash, debit card, Google Wallet card, driver's license, insurance card, and handgun license.

Cells like these. Their capacity is only 500mAh, unlike Ikea Ladda AAAs that have 900mAh. Some cells (like this one) use a lithium ion cell inside, but there's circuitry inside to convert the different voltage to a regular AAA voltage (1.5V).

Streamlight 66608 250 Lumen Microstream USB Rechargeable

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_W7b1DbA3YPBED

I'm just starting to rebuild my light collection since it was decimated by goblins.

Cheaper option with one mode.

USB option with high/low modes.

Here we go!

You might consider getting AAA batteries that can charge from USB, then you could carry a USB battery bank.

Not this specific one, but something similar in functionality

Rechargeable AAA Batteries 4 Pack with USB Charge Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGYB5Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Mzm7CbK4CP145

I was wondering if this is a good price

Are you using AAA or AA? Are you using Alkaline or Lithium? I'm using a AAA lithium battery

Batteries

http://www.amazon.com/Maxell-Cell-Pack-Battery-723443/dp/B002PY7P4I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393959296&sr=8-1&keywords=aa+batteries

96 AA batteries for $25.

http://www.costco.com/Duracell-Quantum-AA-30-Unit-2pk-Alkaline-Batteries-.product.100081528.html

60 AA batteries for $38.

just search for (AAA to AA adapter)

Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Battery-Convertor-Adapter-Holder/dp/B01EJ7IMRW/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1526428920&sr=8-4&keywords=aaa+to+aa&dpID=41a6qVoOmLL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Battery: https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Ultimate-Lithium-Batteries-Count/dp/B071CNQ3TG/ref=sr_1_4_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1526428991&sr=1-4&keywords=aaa%2Blithium%2Bbatteries&dpID=51poIJtVb8L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1

But maybe try it first before ordering all those extras

Are these it?

500 clams is worth about $17 (based on the $20 for 600 clams price)

you can literally buy 48 real actual batteries for less than that

Ridiculous

If your light was designed to take a li-ion cell, you could put a 10440 in there and get a little more brightness (and a lot more heat), but it's not designed for that. Don't try it, you'll likely ruin the electronics of your light.

A brand new lithium primary (non-rechargeable, not to be confused with li-ion) such as the Energizer Ultimate Lithium when brand new, are about 1.8v. So with a brand new one of these, you'll get a tad more brightness, but I doubt you would be able to notice the difference. The pro's of lithium primaries is they last longer than alkaline or NiMH, don't leak (generally only alkalines leak), are much lighter and work better than anything else in the cold...but they are quite expensive. NiMH are usually preferred because of being rechargeable, which makes them really cheap to use and provide decent run time (especially the ones I linked for you). The main downside of NiMH is you'll need a one-time purchase of a charger, such as the EBL 907.

Awesome contest!!

batteries because I can't take pictures without them and my camera just died. :-(

I'm using these, but I have no clue how they'd compare to any other battery.

We quite need some batteries pretty badly. It sucks having flashlights and things and no means to operate them.

I took a sip of something poison, but I'll hold on tight!

You have 6 pieces here, two of which are keys. It’s not a keychain in my opinion, it’s a rat’s nest of shit tied together and dangling from the ignition of your car.

Less is more.

Do you use the carabiner to hook the keys on your belt loop? If not, toss it. I would also toss the flashlight and buy one that you can clip onto your pocket.