(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best adjustable wrenches

You sya you don't have the tools to make the mash tun and brew pot. I assemlbe my mash tun, HLT, and brew pot with two 10inch adjustable wrenches, a standard dewalt drill, a carbonate cutting bit, a stepped cutting bit, and some cutting oil. If you have the drill everything else would cost around 50 bucks, then you also gain tools with your equipment. The hardest part is cutting holes in the pot for a thermometer.

Either way to make the Mashtun and MTL you would only need 2 10 inch adjustable wrenches.

Up to you, but here is some all grain kits you could look at:

http://www.austinhomebrew.com/10-Gallon-Igloo-Cooler-Mash-Tun-With-False-Bottom-AND-Hot-Liquor-Tank_p_6699.html

https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Cooler-Stainless-Steel-Screen/dp/B013KJKAC0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068034&sr=8-9&keywords=10+gallon+mash+tun

You can make a 10 gallon mash tun for under 100 dollars:

10 Gallon cooler (~$50)
https://www.amazon.com/Igloo-Gallon-Beverage-dispenser-Dispenser/dp/B000F6SHTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068151&sr=8-1&keywords=10+gallon+cooler

Ball Valve(~$15)
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Brewing-Wl301-Stainless-Weldless/dp/B00OC8DXPA/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068175&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=wedless+ball+valve

Screen (~$8)
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Bazooka-Screen-Fitting/dp/B003ISY2DC/ref=pd_sim_468_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003ISY2DC&pd_rd_r=45GNPGH763R20241728C&pd_rd_w=MCZcu&pd_rd_wg=n4Wsv&psc=1&refRID=45GNPGH763R20241728C

1/2 female npt fitting(~$5)
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Fitting-Coupling-Female/dp/B003GSKXUU/ref=pd_sim_328_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003GSKXUU&pd_rd_r=SMJAVJR6CYZ7P9ZBQBQQ&pd_rd_w=h6v7j&pd_rd_wg=eclPX&psc=1&refRID=SMJAVJR6CYZ7P9ZBQBQQ

Total: 78 dollars. You can buy 2 10 inches adjustable wrenches for 20 dollars (https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-90-949-10-Inch-MaxSteel-Adjustable/dp/B000NIDIXA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068379&sr=8-1&keywords=10+inch+adjustable+wrench)

so even having to buy tools its still under 100 dollars to make the Mash tun. The hot liquor tank will be the same price minus the screen, npt fitting, and tools. I personally made mine even cheaper buy using a 5 gallon htl instead of a 10 gallon and that will drop the price 25 more dollars. There is 0 drilling involved you simply unscrew the old plastic tap and put the weld ball valve in its place, it took me less than 10 min to make my new HTL on Monday.

Also, and this is really important to why I say build yourself, any mash tun you buy is going to be put together the same way it just matters whether you put it together or someone else does, either way the quality will be identical.

If you need a sparge arm for fly sparge you can make that out of pvc pipe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-jgmgbwvg4

My two cents, even though you don't believe in you. I do, if you feel like saving money you can absolutely make all this stuff yourself and it doesn't require you be good at anything more than thinking like a logical person.

I started out with just this and i had no issue till i started needing specialty junk. Codeblues and Dogbones are my best friends (These if you want more sizes), These + a larger set and a 11-1 w/ t25 security bit. Good razor and flush cuts of your choice. Beyond that its all climbing/rigging convenience stuff.

Here's the Amazon link:

Jeremywell 23 in 1 Adjustable Multi Functional Flexible Type Wrench 7-19 mm

It has a lot of great reviews, and it's even a few dollars cheaper right now than what I paid for it a few years ago. It's a bit tricky to use the first time, but it actually works pretty well as a replacement for 23 separate wrenches.

I used a socket wrench with a t-handle like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QW9A4F4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_S5C6CbPBTYN46

Made it super easy.

There is some stuff I found on Amazon. Look for Aven, but the wrenches etc are fairly expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Aven-21190-10-Adjustable-Stainless-Wrench/dp/B00QIK25JU

I resorted to some good quality tools and keep them mostly ziplocked and properly stowed. I guess you could treat them with CorrosionX regularly.

you are probably envisioning something like the bionic wrench I cannot speak to it's quality, but it meets your requested specks pretty well.

Cartridge bearing BBs are slightly more difficult to work with, they require a large adjustable crescent wrench and a splined tool that engages with the cartridge cups. Sometimes the cups require quite a bit of force to remove. The right hand cup is reverse threaded, so be sure to remember to wrench in the opposite direction you think.

Pull the BB out and either take it to your LBS for them to measure, or just use a ruler or calipers to measure the spindle going through the BB from end-to-end. I'd expect something like 113-118mm in length. Shimano makes a cheap square taper cartridge BB that replaces that one and is pretty ubiquitous and will mate up with your crank easily. I've found that the quality of those FSA units is poor so you can call it an upgrade!

Check out this page for a really in-depth guide!

edit: left for right

The Knipex are great because they also work as pliers. I’ve also used this small crescent wrench with good results.

Crescent AT14 Adjustable Wrench Black Oxide Finish, 4-Inch

I've never been happy with a "do it all" tool. The problem with crecent wrenches is that the loosen themselves as you use them. Though, this technically solves that, it really just over complicates the design.

If you're looking for a good crecent wrench (aka adjustable wrench because crecent is the name brand I believe) get ones that are low profile and have almost no play to the jaws.

At my work, we use DeWalt 's adjustable wrenches $20usd, they're low profile, easy to find, easy to adjust and stay adjusted. A nice creature feature is that it has markings for metric and SAE on the jaws so you can preset the jaws easier if you know the size of the nut.

My BF's last about 2 years on average. I have had some last much longer though. I probably break 2 blades per year. I broke my a BF last back in March (it's always your favorite blade that breaks). And, I have an '09 BF White which is, I think, on its last legs now.

That said, I keep a bag of 7-8 working foils (currently: 2 BF Black, 2 BF White, 2 FIE StM, 1 Bniti). However, they don't all get equal use, I use the BF's (blacks and whites) for 90% of fencing, I tend to lend out the StM's to a friend who is chronically underprepared (IMO, they're quite good blades still), and I use the Bniti for wall/dummy drills so that I don't wear the tips out on the blades I actually fence with).

Make sure you keep a nice bend in your blade from about the midpoint onward. If you don't let your blade take on gnarly S-Bends and fix and bad bends before fencing with the blade it will last much longer. And don't straighten your blade under your foot unless you're under the gun at a tournament. If you have a nasty bend fix it in the armoury ; Use a the "old style" Craftsman 10in adjustable crescent wrench just put the blade threw the hole at the end of the handle and gently squeeze the wrench down slowly working out the bend. Essentially you're using the hole in the wrench as the fulcrum and the wrench as a lever. It's a much more precise and less harsh method of correcting a bend. That said, you should also make sure you put a bend into your new blades before you fence with them so that they are less prone to take an S-bend to begin with.

Also, keep your blades in a separate pocket from your sweaty clothes/gear. And get some tubes ($4 at LP, $5 at Absolute and BG) to put over your blade. There is just no reason why you should be letting those little spots of rust help the micro-fractures in the metal expand.

To remove the driveside cup on an English threaded bike: turn it clockwise.

Bringheli sells a special fixed-cup remover tool for $70 http://www.bringheli.com

I typically use something like this with a cheater bar slid onto the tapered end of the wrench. If you've chewed up the flats on the cup, you can use a dremel or similar to grind them flat again.

Good luck.

Here's an easier way.

Adding a foot of leverage does wonderful things.

Five is a right angle screwdriver - the indentation on the end of the chunkier bit takes little bits like these more than likely.

One is likely a tensioner wrench of some kind, meant for bits where there's two holes about that distance apart, like this. You stick the prongs into the matching holes and turn. You're probably meant to stick a bar of some kind into the tubing to get more torque.

Seven looks like it's some kind of fitting for a pneumatic tool, maybe a quick connect?

Eight is retaining clips. They're used mostly for routing wires and hoses, as well as for clipping interior panels in place. One end clips to the wire or interior panel, the other to the body of the vehicle.

Two might be similar to #1 in utility.

I'm not really sure about any of these except #8, but feel about 80% confidence.

Ford wrench, monkey wrench, sliding adjustable wrench
https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-C711H-11-Inch-Chrome-Plated-Adjustable/dp/B000TDGHF0
Also highly recommend channel lock normal adjustable wrenches. Can really save your bacon

They sell pin keepers for a more secure alternative to the butterfly clutch for pin backs. I see them in biker gear stores all the time to keep pins securely fastened to biker leather vests.

Also Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Pin-Keepers-Locking-Pinkeepers-QUALITY/dp/B007WMYS8Y

http://www.amazon.com/Pin-Keepers-Locking-Pinkeepers-QUALITY/dp/B007WMYS8Y/ref=lp_9195529011_1_1?srs=9195529011&ie=UTF8&qid=1457704062&sr=8-1

These are awesome.

Havent lost one yet, even going through washer and dryer.

$4.22 and free shipping. (Probably a terrible wench, but probably sufficient for loosening a password free)

TOOGOO(R) 4 Inch Professional Adjustable Wrench Spanner Hand Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IIE13R4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y2K-zbGWYWX9J

Another great upgrade for racing is Tubliss tire system.

For enduros, other good tools to carry in the camel bak are 8 & 10 mm box end wrenches or adjustable wrench (I like 150mm Light Weight Adjustable Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00762IKB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FwaWzbTB0M4BQ), zip ties, in weld, safety wire, pliers (to use with master link and also to cut zip ties and wire.

Good to carry the above items for enduros, but for hare scrambles just worry about water and gas.

For an enduro, attach a small grocery bag to your gas can with a sandwich, extra water bladder and some snacks. Carry some snacks like gummies or cliff bars with you for the stops along the race course.

What class are you racing in D36?

I just get whatever is cheap from home depot/hardware store/target/etc.

But if you want specific kits or multitools, try:

https://shop.animalbikes.com/hard-goods/tools/kotulak-multi-tool.html on sale makes it more worth it otherwise pretty expensive

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Long-Wrench-13-Piece-25262/dp/B00I5THFR4/

https://www.amazon.com/40-Pieces-EPAuto-Reversible-Ratchet/dp/B01LZEMYOD/

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-23003-8-Inch-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B00FFUPRXK/

Like I said, I don't like to buy "bike tools". Unless you really feel the need to get some compact multi tool for "reasons". I like to buy tool sets for the house so I have tools. Then take what I need for the bike with me in a backpack.

Those multi tools aren't gonna feel comfortable in your pocket anyway. Have a backpack. Have everything you need in it. And if you drive to a spot it stays in your car or if you're riding you carry it around but since you're already carrying a pack it's not much different if it's individual tools or a singular piece.

Now who's laughing?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C11UIW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q5m1Db4A53J0Z

Edit: /s

You’re welcome.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007WMYS8Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

A faucet wrench will make tightening the faucet to the shank much easier, they're not very expensive at all. Also, keep in mind the circular cover goes between the faucet and the shank.

Spent a long ass time looking for everything. Here's everything I found on the first go. Will give it one more shot to find anything I missed:

• BRAVIT XL candle - (Lots of dead ends. Verdict: Looks like a prototype. Not available.)
  
• Spiral Pasta fork set
  
• Analog watch thingy - Pebble Watch + this watchface app
  
• Neverwet - (They don't sell the waterproof shirts, you have to make your own with the spray. Find one compatible with the fabric/surface you're using it on.)
  
• Bullet proof windshield
  
• Microwave + pizza oven combo - (Hell, this is even better than the Microwave+toaster combo pictured)
  
• Treadwall
  
• USB passthrough cables
  
• Robot printer - Kickstarter page. (17 days left. Goal already reached)
  
• The GOPlate
  
• Klein bottle - Only place I found looks kinda shady, so buyer beware. [EDIT: apparently legit]
  
• Firepit bench set - Not available for purchase. It's a DIY project posted by a guy on a forum. Info on how to build it here.
  
• Ghost Cube - Not available. It's art from a documentary on Ghostcubes.
  
• Missile chair + table - (still searching)
  
• Touchscreen Android coffee table
  
• Bionic Wrench - Available in 6-inch and 10-inch versions.
  
• Suitcase picnic table
  
• GEN H-4 personal helicopter - UNDER DEVELOPMENT
  
• Freedom flask
  
• Drift Trike
  
• Paper sofa
  
• Morphing ironing board - Not available. It is a 2012 iF Design Talents entry called the E-Board by Mohsen Jafari Malek.
  
• Pencil holder - (Not found)
  
• Pineapple corer
  
• 2-in-1 bench + picnic table
  
• Hybrid car+quadricopter - Successful kickstarter. Available for preorder.
  
• Bicycle cocktail cabinet - Not available. Apparently it's a DIY project made decades ago by Erling Ekmark from Sweden.
  

I use something like this

Draft Warehouse Standard Faucet Wrench with Vynil Grip - Heavy Duty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00829HKFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6b2ACbGSBVVYF

Here's the wrench we're talking about:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C11UIW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q5m1Db4A53J0Z

Clearly, the screw is a part of it.

I think I'll need to buy a faucet wrench. Do you happen to know the difference between this one and this one?

Available on Amazon and it is Made by Loggerhead

They're locking pin stops. I've never seen them used this way before, usually they go on the metal post on the back of enamel pins, to keep them from falling off of whatever you're pinning them to. Just bought a bunch of them, here's the link

I would make the following recommendations before resorting to welding or drilling out, or any method with a higher chance of causing damage to other parts of the motorcycle.

Edit: I looked at the picture and realize you didn't mean you ruonded off the top of the bolt, you mean that you snapped off the head. My advice below is for rounded off nuts and advice on the hex-key oil bolts. You can ignore it as your issue is a sheared off head.

Think of when you change your car oil filter. The oil filter wrench -- how does hit work? It tightens up and gets a better grip as you turn. Now think of your open-end wrench, especially if you don't have one that's a correct fit -- it grabs only two of the thin bolt head edges, and pushes on the thin tips. The worse fit your wrench is to the bolt, the finer the edge of the tip it's going to grab--and smear. Use the open end wrench ONLY as a last resort.


Get either a Loggerhead Tools Bionic Wrench or a Sears Max Axxess wrench version. Squeeze on the nut and turn. As you turn, it bites down harder. This is better than vice grips that bite once, then use small teeth like a metal file if they slip.

Note: There is a controversy, I recommend supporting buying the American Inventor tool, Loggerhead, and not Sears

Consider using a Gator Grip socket.

If any of the above give you a problem, use a hand file or a dremel to put some more solid edges on your bolt for them to grip.

Final tips: The stock bolts are fine. Get a correct fitting, box-end wrench, or a six-sided socket, and you will never have a problem (unless you smear it on a rock). There is nothing wrong with the hex key drain plugs, but note you're using a reverse box-end wrench (a six-point "bolt head") to stick into the hole. And if somehting goes wrong, you have less surface area in the hex hole to apply force to for removing them -- you'll be filing flat edges on that round bolt head so you can get one of the above tools to bite on it. Plus you'll have to carry an extra tool vs the Eagle Mike low profile that's the same bolt head size (I believe).

The hex-key fix is an "I don't know how to use tools so I get one that was dummy proofed for me" tip. The equivalent to using a box end wrench on a bolt, would be using a standard/slotted screwdriver to tighten/loosen your hex keys.

Pin Keepers Locking Pinkeepers Back With Wrench Biker VERY HIGH QUALITY LOW SHIP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007WMYS8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_2BWEyqmSPRtFX