The most important things are a tank and the ability to fill the tank to a PSI above a minimum of 80 or so. A tank makes it so the compressor doesn't have to run constantly, and creates a buffer so the air pulses of the compressor aren't transmitted to the brush where they can cause dotted rather than smooth lines. You want the compressor to be able to put out a higher PSI because you want the tank to hold enough so you can spray for longer at pressures of 60 PSI or below for longer intervals before the compressor has to refill the tank.

For model painting, most of your spraying will be best done at 20-30 PSI. Higher PSIs like 60 tend to be either for cleaning, or stuff like textile paints (i.e. T-shirt artists). The little "fishtank" compressors like the Ninja Jet can only deliver a max PSI of around 15 or so, which is on the very bottom edge of what most brushes can work with. PSIs of 15 and below are mainly used for tiny close-in detail work with highly thinned paint, and going that low works better with brushes that are designed specifically for detail, rather than "jack of all trades" workhorses.

Different brushes require different CFM (cubic feet per minute- a measurement of air volume rather than pressure), and little "fishtank" compressors are bare minimum here as well, so there will be many brushes where they'll make the brush spray poorly because they physically can't provide enough air to keep up at any pressure. A good target CFM rating for a tankless compressor is 1.5.

A tanked compressor can technically get away with less CFM, since it's not supplying the brush directly, but unless you want to have to stop painting whenever the compressor has to top up the tank, you want the compressor to have enough CFM to supply the brush WHILE also filling the tank, which means check your brush manual/documentation for its CFM, and look for a compressor that is specced over that by at least 1/2. The higher the CFM, the faster the tank will fill. Unfortunately I could not find specs for the Patriot that list CFM, but 1.5 is probably still a good start for a tanked compressor.

"Master" and other such Chinese import brand compressors are popular because people think they're cheap, but for very little extra a brand like California Air Tools will get you better QC, support, reliability, and specs. Chinese airbrushes are comparatively cheap, but the compressors aren't really, so there's not much reason to get the Chinese ones IMO.

Avoid regular hardware-style compressors unless you're painting in a very noise-tolerant environment, as even the "quiet" ones are LOUD AF. Seriously: when the descriptions/reviews say "super quiet" they mean by construction site standards, not household appliance standards.

As to fittings: if you live in a particularly dry climate (like Arizona, say), you can get away with not using a moisture trap, but even there it's good practice to have one just in case. If your climate is any more variable or humid than that, you will want a moisture trap. You can just get one from the local hardware store though: it doesn't have to be a special type. Always place the trap last in the air supply/fitting chain before the airbrush hose, so: compressor-> tank-> regulator-> moisture trap-> airbrush hose-> airbrush. Or if using a bench block as described below: compressor-> tank-> regulator-> connecting hose-> bench block regulator-> moisture trap-> airbrush hose-> airbrush.

In the US, compressors usually have 1/4 NPT fittings. In Metric countries, 1/4 BSP. These fittings are cross-compatible enough that you can use them together with teflon tape.

For hobby and fine art airbrushing, I HIGHLY recommend a lightweight hose like this over braided hoses. Braided hoses are for industrial-type settings like auto painting shops, where hoses need to be extra hard wearing.

BTW, when painting, loop the hose once around your forearm so if you accidentally drop the brush, the hose acts as a lanyard preventing the brush from hitting the floor. I feel like I'm constantly hearing horror stories about people damaging their brush by dropping it when preventing this is so easy.

A tanked compressor with come with a regulator. These are perfectly usable, but imprecise. It's not strictly necessary, but I do highly recommend using the built-in regulator as a step-down regulator, and getting a 0-30 or 0-60 PSI regulator to chain after it. I use one of these on my setup, and it makes adjusting airflow much better.

If you plan on locating your compressor directly on or under your "workbench" surface, that's all you need. If the compressor is going to be outside immediate/easy reach, it can be good to mount your regulator and moisture trap on a separate "bench block" so you can put it on/under your bench within easy reach. This is what I had to do with my setup (I mounted the regulator and moisture trap on a scavenged heavy steel bookend). In that case, you'll want/need a hose like this to go between the compressor and the regulator/filter block.

There are "extras" you can get like a quick-connectors and MAC valves, but I don't personally recommend them. If you're only using the compressor for your airbrush, you don't need quick connectors on the compressor side of the hose, and IMO quick connectors on the brush side don't actually save you time/energy as it only takes 2 seconds to unscrew a brush from the hose. If your regulator is in easy reach, a MAC valve similarly does not save you any time/effort. Both of these also add lots of bulk to the brush stem, which is undesirable if your instinct is to hold/use the brush like a pen instead of a gun. There are mini-filters that go between the hose and the brush, but I generally don't recommend them for the same reason: too much added bulk on the brush stem: it's better to to add to your main filters if you need better filter performance.

I don't have a Badger Patriot, but my understanding is that it's a good brush. I have two Badger SOTAR models, and if they're any indicator, I'd expect spray performance to be comparable to IWATA, but fit & finish to be more raw and "industrial" outside of the nozzle and needle, so a little fussier to keep clean. It should be much better and more reliable than a 20$ "Master" or "Point Zero" or whatnot.

The threads in the head assembly can be a little "gritty" on Badger brushes OOB. If that's the case, I recommend lapping them with something like Flitz to ensure a good seal. Basically just put a tiny dab of compound on the male threads, then screw them in and out about 20 times to polish off the burrs that are causing the gritty/sticky feeling. Make sure to clean the residue off thoroughly before spraying again.

For maintenance, get a roll of lint-free shop paper towels, a couple packs of interdental brushes from the local dollar store, a box of q-tips, and a box of round wood toothpicks. Use paper towels and q-tips wetted with solvent/thinner to clean the cup and needle, the interdental brushes to clean the passageways/tubes in the body, and use a wood toothpick whittled to a needle taper and soaked in thinner to clean the inside of the nozzle (don't use metal tools to clean the nozzle, as they might scratch it or flare the tip). Occasionally you'll need to inspect the needle tip or nozzle for gunk or damage, so you'll want a high-X pocket magnifier similar to this. Also a stick of wax-based lip balm to help the threads in the head assembly maintain a good air seal (apply a tiny amount to the male threads before reassembly after cleaning).

Get or make a spray-out pot. They're easy to DIY out of a margarine tub or soda/juice bottle, so although nice, it's not strictly necessary to buy one.

Get or make an airbrush stand/holder. This is not for storing the brush, but rather for having a way to set the brush down while in-in use without spilling the paint cup. Again: these are easy to DIY, so you don't have to splash cash on one unless you really feel like it.

Hope that helps!

>1: You say you use Vallejo paints, what is the reason for using that brand, Cost? Quality?

Boils down to really just two things.... the model air/game air paints are pre-thinned for airbrushing which is super handy, especially when starting out, and two, dropper bottles are infinitely better for airbrush work than those stupid-ass paint pots GW makes. I have LOTS of GW paints as they are amazing paints. (expensive, but amazing) Typically i brush paint with GW and airbrush with Vallejo.

>2: For some reason, that airbrush costs nearly 60 pounds :D (i live in the UK, if you hadnt guessed!) if i were to get that specific airbrush, what else would i need to make it work, you mention an Air Compressor (brand? type?) and a Water Trap (whats the purpose of that - as i say, bit of a noob here!), what else, some sort of Hose to connect the compressor to the brush i assume? any cleaning supplies? which specific paints do you use?

WTF?! That airbrush is 60 fuckin pounds in the UK. Shit. At any rate, ANY TANK compressor will work. A tank compressor compresses air into a giant tank that is THEN let out of the tank through the brush, which allows for smooth flow. If it were an air compressor without a tank then it would "putt, putt, putt air out." which is deadly for airbrush work. You want smooth constant air flow.

Airbrush to Compressor Hose

Water trap for air compressors Note: these aren't 100% necessary for a larger tank air compressor as the large tank somewhat does exactly what this little guy does. These are usually only necessary for a compressor that isn't a tank fed. Moisture through condensed air is a real problem and if it gets into your paint, it'll fuck up your smoothness of airbrushing.

My exact compressor, which can be used for LOTS of things, not just airbrushing. Note: the only downside to these types of compressor is how goddamned loud they are. Pretty much HAVE to be used outdoors.

I connect the airbrush to the hose i linked earlier. I connect that hose to the water trap i linked earlier. I connect the water trap to a standard thick cheap air compressor hose. I connect the cheap air compressor hose to the air compressor.

I assure you it's FAR less complicated than it seems. That masters brush i linked you earlier comes with a 'quick release' that is STUPID handy. It connects to the airbrush hose (the blue-ish one linked) really quickly.

I use pretty much exclusively Vallejo Air paints.

Model Air Standard Colors

Model Air Range

Game Air Range

Only difference between game and model air ranges is the color vibrance and ability to be touched repeatedly and not wear off. (should not be a problem at all if you varnish your models though). Game air colors are generally formulated to mimic the GW range as well.

The only difference between Game and Model vs Game Air/Model Air is that the Air versions of them are pre-thinned and ready to shoot through an airbrush straight outta the bottle. You can buy almost any of those colors individually from amazon.

Also, Airbrush Guru is THE best resource I've seen on the subject. TON of helpful tips and tricks. Great in-depth reviews of noob friendly airbrushes and how to clean them. Most of the things I've linked you to buy can be used for things OTHER than airbrushing. The reasons for that are they are cheap. Good airbrushes run for hundreds of dollars. Shitty ones that still work awesome are priced accordingly. Start small, then dive in from there.

Lastly but not in the very least... safety is king. DO NOT AIRBRUSH IN A CLOSED ROOM WITH NO VENTILATION.

Airbrushing acrylics is the safest of the paints to shoot through, but even they can get in your lungs and over time cause problems. If you are going to try to airbrush indoors make sure you setup a proper ventilation system or have in place a spray booth. Something like this would be fine.

P.S. This is incredibly handy as well, like, more handy than anything I've shown you so far. It is obviously NOT necessary, but once you start airbrushing I would guarantee you that it'll be the next thing you buy. Helps when you need to sit the airbrush down but you still have paint in the cup. Enjoy! Again, go to that website, The Airbrush Guru for the best information. It's fantastic, seriously.

I just recently finished installing a kegerator with separate Reverse Osmosis and Seltzer water taps very similar to this instructable one

My pregnant wife was super thankful for the pure tasting water since our town water was starting to bother her (due to her pregnancy super sensitive taste and smell haha). And guests are always impressed by our infinite seltzer on tap.

My next favorite things are probably my extension cord reel and my compressor air hose reel for the garage. It really helps with quick projects and saves me the time wasted trying to nicely coil them up.

My next favorite thing was trenching some outdoor rated CAT-6 ethernet around the outside of the house and into my office so we could have super fast internet in both the living room and office. That was a huge improvement!

Next favorite thing is a Kohler toilet with an elongated bowl and soft close toilet seat. It flushes forcefully and completely in like one second versus out old toilet which took a good 15-20 seconds swirling around before actually flushing.

I have been working on this over the past 2 years. This will be my 4th HvZ game using this rig. We normally have a game in the fall and then in the spring. I got the idea when the magstrike saved my bacon and I wanted to fix the small bladder issue. The speed of them was awesome but pumping it every time was a pain. I looked up some other mods and didn't see anything I liked. I decided I didn't want to the noise of an air compressor so I went with a large backpack mounted tank.

The magstrikes don't fire much stronger than a stock one. I shot them with a stock magstrike and matched them pretty close. Since basically its just a magstrike with a huge bladder, there wasn't much argument against it. I had the mods come personally over to check it out before hand. The fact that I continue to improve on it and make sure it's safe has earned me respect and I even have people referred to me for help to keep them within reasonable limits.

I've worked up a master part list for you with links of where to get most of it too:

---

Parts List

• 2 Magstrikes x $20 = $40
  
• Screws and Misc Parts = $20+
  
• Elastic = $2
  
• 8 Magstrike Mags = $32
  
• 3 Magstrike Mags = (received in a trade)
  
• 100 Whistler Darts = $15
  
  Subtotal: $109
  
  ---
  
  Clothing/Storage
  
  
• Carrier Vest - $17
  
• SAW Ammo Pouches x3 - $24
  
• M4 Magazine Pouch (fits the power bank) - $3
  
• Bike Tool Bag - $9
  
  Subtotal: $53
  
  ---
  
  Air Tank Parts - All fittings are 1/4" NPT
  
  
• Viair 1 Gallon Air Tank - $40
  
• Safety Release Valve - $7.37
  
• 1/4" Schrader Valve - $4.85
  
• Pressure Gauge - $5
  
• Viair Braided Air Hose - $13.80
  
• Elbow Pieces x3 = $12.51
  
• Regulator - $21
  
• Ball Port Valve - $8.50
  
• 45 Degree Elbow - $5.57
  
• 10Ft of Tubing - $2.40
  
• Nylon Push-to-Connect Adapter - $3.07
  
• Push-to-Connect Adapter x2 = $5
  
• Wye Adapter - $4.65
  
• Threaded 1/4" Push-To-Connect - $4.70
  
• Quick Disconnect Adapter - $5
  
• Baby carrier (Pawn Shop) - $15
  
  Subtotal: $158.45
  
  ---
  
  Lighting
  
  
• 226 Lumen Maglight - $25
  
• Wide Angle Lens (for bike light) - $5
  
• 1200 Lumen Bike Light - $20
  
• 10000 mAh USB Power Bank - $33
  
  Subtotal: $83
  
  ---
  
  Tools
  
  
• Air Compressor - $60 (Got a deal on it)
  
  Subtotal: $60
  
  ---
  
  Unknown Prices/Misc Pieces
  
  
• Wood
  
• Brackets
  
• Screws
  
• Foam
  
• Epoxy Putty
  
  Estimated Subtotal: $10
  
  ----
  
  Grand Total: $473.45
  
  This includes all the parts currently being used in the mod. It doesn't count the two magstrikes I broke/parted out from experiments, other gun parts, extra fittings and all my tools I purchased to build the stuff. Most of this was broken up into small purchases over the past 2 years. $5 fitting here. $50 order there. I also purchased mostly things I could use outside of just HvZ like the bike light, ammo pouches, etc so it's not all wasted on nerf stuff.

- What PSI is needed? I see that the actuators list a max capacity, but what are your 15 actuators lifting (heavy or light load)?

- There are many "air manifold" options on the market, or you could cut and design one yourself (again, dependent on operating PSI)

- Also air pressure regulators and moisture regulators are easy to come by.

- Multi-media? is volume of operation a concern?

That PSI question is your biggest consideration here. If you don't have the pressure- you don't have the power to "push" those actuators. You may need multiple compressors, or just one. Any consumer product on the market is probably fine. But you gotta shop to meet your needs. This seems like a fun project. I hope I provided some help. Good luck!

I got this finish nailer (16 gauge) and I'm very happy with it ($44 currently). I only use it occasionally (about 1-4 times per month), but so far, so good. It may not last as long as a Dewalt or whatever, but it's also about 1/5th the price. If it ever breaks, I'll just get another one and still come out way ahead.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032JTDQS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know you didn't ask, but I also got this palm nailer which has come in handy quite a few times:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBJZ6RE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a bit more now ($60) than I paid for it ($35), but I'm very happy with it. Based on the use I've gotten out of it I'd pay $60 and not feel bad about it. It's great for nailing in crap where a nail gun or hammer are awkward. Like I was hanging some bird houses on some trees and it was so easy to just position the nail and drive it in with this thing.

Oh, and one more recommendation you didn't ask for. ;-) I tried several air hoses and hated them all. Either they were too bulky and hurt portability, or were too stiff and didn't give me enough length. This one is the perfect blend of portable and flexible. It's expensive for a hose, but I love it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E4Z44O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good luck!

Thing is you really need to know what tools they already have, and why they got the compressor. Did they get it for running pneumatic automotive tools, or to spray paint, or because they want to redo all the trim in their house or outside (for nailing). Otherwise you stand a good chance of getting them something they already have.

Anyhow, I think these are the most useful pneumatic tools in order:

1. Impact wrench and sockets. I get mine in 1/2".
   
2. Ratchet
   
3. Blow Gun
   
4. Die Grinder especially if there's any restoration or body repair to do.
   
   The #blow #gun might be your safest bet since no one without a compressor is going to have one. I would look for one with the ability to take attachments ie not this but rather something like this.
   
   Also, tire fillers like this are super useful. There are cheaper ones that only have the filler, but then you have to get a seperate gauge. I love the idea of having the gauge built in, I just received this one and can't wait to use it.

This is my kind of setup. You should read up on setups before going that route yourself, but it's honestly a simple tank addition.

I use a combo of the following:

1. Co2 Regulator
   
2. Co2 Tank Leak Stopper
   
3. inline diffuser
   
   Plants need Co2 only while active, and actually release a small amount of Co2 at night. So diffusing at night is pointless. The regulator can be plugged into any regular timer. It shuts the gas valve when it loses power, so it's also great for safety in case of power outages. They typically come with two gages, one to show your flow pressure and one to show the tank volume. Many also come with a builtin drop checker.
   
   The leak stopper isn't really necessary but it's inexpensive and will ensure a better pressure seal.
   
   The inline diffuser has a ceramic tube and allows the Co2 to mix with your clean tank water. You'll know it's working, because your tank water will look a little it like Sprite. You can also add a reactor which literally crushes the gas bubbles to speed up the dissolution process, but I don't really see the point.
   
   You can buy Co2 tanks at most brew or restaurant supply shops. Tanks come in 5-20 lbs sizes, anything larger is pointless. The assembly is made to hook up to any standard commercial tank so you shouldn't have any issues hooking up.
   
   I don't bother with dry start, because it leads to a lot of plant meltback when you do add water. I spread seed and then immediately fill with water. Add a heater to keep the water temp warm (70 degrees or so), and start your Co2. You can run it 24-7 for the first few days to kickstart germination, just ensure that you keep lights on at all times. You'll see growth in 5-10 days. Don't forget liquid fertilizer and root tabs.

Aluminum fasteners wouldn't have been a wise choice in that application, but it's odd that the manufacturer spec'd regular black oxide fasteners for a use case that involves exposure to the elements. Proper material choice would probably have been a 316-series stainless fastener.

Paint will not likely be your friend here. You aren't going to be able to effectively paint those fasteners and I doubt that there's much shy of powdercoating that will be really perfect there, and that will be impossible to do anyway without making the external threads useless.

Here's how I would approach it:

Option one, if it's an option at all, would be to remove all of the fasteners and replace them with set screws from 316 stainless.

Option two would be to get yourself $30 worth of supplies and a good podcast or two. Pick up some steel wool (I'm thinking #1 or #0) and a thin dowel rod (or a few of these). Wrap a bit of steel wool around the end of the dowel and chuck it into a cordless drill. Use the apparatus to clean the inside of each of the set screws. I wouldn't worry too much about the external threads, as you don't want to use the steel wool on the wheel finish itself, or if you do want to touch them up then use #00 or so gently by hand (and maybe even mask off the aluminum base if you're worried about scuffs).

When all of the pieces are clean take a can of LPS-3 and spray them down. The LPS series of products are corrosion-inhibiting spray lubricants; #3 is the most potent of the group. Once you have a good application of corrosion inhibitor, wipe off the excess and call it a day.

Probably heresy for this sub, but my favorite cheap disposable travel rod is a Daiwa Mini Spin. Load it up with some 2-4lb mono, put some clear casting bubbles, some nymphs, wetflies, grubs and some Roostertails in the case and leave it under your vehicle seat until that day you want to catch some small trout or some bluegills and don't have your better rods.

I had one of these for years back when I used to backpack and forgot how much I used to like it until it got gone. So, I ordered another. I like the size factor that will fit in a backpack, bicycle pannier or under a car seat without even noticing it. And I like the price. And screw the purists. I'll take fishing flies with a casting bubble over not fishing any day.

Without tools, the best you can really do is look for oiliness on the pipe. When you find a joint that feels oily (look for dark colours on the pipe, usually covered in very fine dust. Once you rub the dusty area with your fingers you'll feel the oiliness), spray/pour a small amount of washing up liquid over it and look for bubbles. If there's any refrigerant left in the system, you'll usually see bubbles appear (or over a longer period, foam). Of course if the gas has all escaped already - and we're only talking a couple of hundred grams here - then you won't see any bubbles.

Most domestic gear has no access fitting at all so even locating the leak can be difficult if there's no visual indication. You need to get pressure in there so you can leak test - this means adding a bullet piercing valve (like this).

Then you need to put something in via your bullet piercing valve to raise the system pressure. It's best to use dry nitrogen to leak test to save wasting refrigerant, but since you most likely don't have that on hand you could buy yourself some refrigerant (most likely R134a) and pressurise with that. That's a big no-no here (both disposable cylinders and dumping gas to atmosphere by charging a system with a known leak) but I'm guessing your in the US, and those sorts of laws seem remarkably lax so go for gold. It's not like you'll be ruining MY ozone layer too, right? ;)

You also need to regulate the pressure going in to the system. This is where you need gauges. Connect the yellow line to your bottle, connect the blue line loosely to your bullet piercing valve, purge from cylinder to piercing valve by opening the cylinder tap + gauges tap, and releasing some pressure via the loose fitting, then tighten the fitting and close your gauges tap. Open the bullet piercing valve. Open the gauges tap slowly and give it ~50psi of system pressure.

Then you can go for gold with your soap, or you can lash out and grab yourself some "proper" leak detection fluid (like this), or better yet an electronic leak detector (like this one).

Once you've found your leak, you want to release your nitrogen (or reclaim your refrigerant using a reclaim plant and a spare cylinder), then repair it using an oxy/acetalyne set, or since it's only tiny pipework you can get away with a MAPP gas set.

If it's a copper->copper joint, you're laughing - polish the pipework up with emery cloth, heat the pipe until it's just this side of glowing red, and feed the joint with brown tip silver solder.

If it's a copper->steel joint, then it's a bit more of a pain. You need blue tip silver solder and flux. Clean your joint with the emery cloth, give it a nice coating of flux on every surface you need solder to stick to, then heat it up until it's a fair way short of glowing red. Feed the blue tip solder in and STOP. Unlike brown tip (15% silver) you can't just keep feeding blue tip (45% silver) as it ruins the weld.

Now, since you put on a bullet piercing valve and they leak like a sieve in the long term, we need to replace that with a schrader access valve. Since it's most likely going to be in a straight through piece of pipe, you can save time and grab yourself a pre made access valve in 1/4" pipe. Cut away the hole left by the bullet piercing valve, polish the copper and cut the pipework with a ~10mm gap using a tube cutter. Then slip your access fitting assembly in there, and follow the copper->copper joint procedure.

Of course, now that we've done all that you need to change the liquid line filter drier too. I'd recommend a 1/4" solder in core drier in place of the original copper spun drier because... well, copper spun driers are terrible. Follow the pipe cutting procedure from the piercing valve instructions and the soldering instructions from the copper->copper joint instructions and that's done too. Remember - always try and mount the drier so it's outlet is LOWER than its inlet. This turns the drier into a small liquid receiver and helps ensure a good liquid seal over the capillary tube. Speaking of capillary tubes, if it was inserted straight into the original copper spun drier CUT the capillary, don't try and unsweat it. The chances of blocking it up are about 82.5634% (approximately) when you unsweat capillarys. You're much better off chopping it with a set of capillary tube cutters and ensuring a good clean capillary. The ~30mm of wasted capillary will affect performance, but almost certainly not to any sort of measurable degree.

Then give the system a good evacuation using a vacuum pump and ensure it reaches a good vacuum (sub-500 micron) with a digital vacuum gauge.

Then using a set of electronic scales, charge your freshly evacuated system (remembering to purge!) to the charge recommended by the manufacturer.

Voila! You have just fixed your chest freezer.

..... Alternatively, pay someone to do it for you and/or recycle the components and buy yourself a new one.

I have that burner, it works. However, a friend has a burner with a frame shaped like this one and it seems to be more efficient at directing more heat at the bottom of the pot and letting less escape up the sides of the pot. Our burners have the same exact gas manifold (his frame is just shaped like the one below, it doesn't have that fancy manifold).

http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-KAB4-Pressure-Cooker/dp/B0009JXYQY/ref=sr_1_5?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1302578608&sr=1-5

YOU WANT A POT WITH A TRIPLE CLAD BOTTOM. The pot you linked to doesn't appear to have that. It distributes heat much better and prevents overheating at the bottom.

I use an 8.75 gallon pot for 5.5 gallon batches, cost me $60 shipped on ebay. This one is nicer than the one you linked to:

http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Commercial-Stainless-Induction-Certified/dp/B003ATSMJY/ref=pd_sbs_k_1

It should go without saying that you need the right care and calibration tools to make your day to day listening the best. This is what I use for those purposes;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KR15HU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2AMSYS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HRJ9NAY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KAFG8EG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ERPWAK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GOOAEVK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Of these things, the OnZow is probably the most important, along with the Studebaker record cleaner. If you buy used records a cleaner is a MUST, and even new out of the wrapper records have crap on them. The OnZow gets the junk off your needle, which is a must.

AFTER those things are taken care of, cart or preamp. Both have the most immediate effect on the sound, presuming you are playing quality good condition records.

like i said, if you're gonna use a standard compressor you really want to use a variable valve air nozzle, as opposed to the trigger based ones. most air compressors are 120 psi.

a nozzle like this would be good to use, but not at 120 psi. if you were going to use a 120 psi compressor, then a nozzle like this would be much better to use, since you can adjust how much air is coming out of it.

This right here 👆
Energy audits are the first place to start $100-$200

Also You also never want to power ventilate an attic.
It will just suck your conditioned air out of your house. Passive vents are find.

As for the New AC unit, make sure it came with a hard start hooked up to it. Those things are lifesavers for your ac. Instead of pulling 50-69amps at start up it is a lot lower like 20-30 amps. Reduces amp draw by up to 50%. Saves wear and tear on the ac. Y

 http://www.five-two-one.com/compressor-saver-how-it-works.html


CPS 5-2-1 CSRU1 Compressor Saver for 1 to 3 Ton Units https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FNMADE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_45OLDb51E776H

You will need to size it to your AC unit. Super easy to install. Also look into getting a backup capacitor for you unit. It will be nice to have if you unit goes out.(most likely cause of AC not working if the unit was installed correctly)

I haven't used their reels, but their hoses are awesome. Definitely would buy.... If I had a compressor:/
link

You could continue with the theme and get him an air hose real that he can mount wherever and use like the extension chord one you got him like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GJ7NUYA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493340180&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=air+hose+reel&dpPl=1&dpID=51tVwNX4T5L&ref=plSrch . Just make sure you get the reel, hose, and necessary fittings for everything. I'll keep looking to see what all is necessary. They are very handy. Edit-make sure it has a spring to retract itself automatically, tekton has one on amazon as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010S8D8R0/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_469_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CVQNCK0W3H7PN6THGA77&dpPl=1&dpID=71Iq-JdNsbL they most always have good reviews on their tools, it looks like it comes with everything he'll need. This needs a hose that goes from the compressor to the reel but I'm assuming he already has one. Read reviews and whatnot because I do not have much experience with these.

Like everyone else said about an oil and water trap. I would also add a connection to the bottom of your compressor to bleed off the water. You could set it to open for 5 seconds every half an hour or something that matches your requirements and then run a hose to a drain. It makes life a lot easier. Something like this

these things work great. You can set the timer for how long it opens and how often. We have them on all our compressors since people can't be bothered to drain them.

1. (Alpha)Looks like the cord reel (left of pic) he said he needed, because he didn't have enough outlets in the middle of the garage: https://i.imgur.com/6ANmiUe.png
   
2. (Bravo) They must do a lot of cooking there: https://i.imgur.com/08EKvuN.png
   
   Edit Alpha: or is it a air hose reel: looks like this or this
   
   Edit Edit: Alpha BINGO https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-50-Foot-8-Inch-Rewind-46875/dp/B010S8D8R0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QV1RLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UEB5xbM9P2MH6

These air hoses are amazing.

> The way hard start kits work is that you place a relay and a capacitor parallel with the run capacitor that is already connected to the PSC motor.

Ah, I see. Now that I look at a picture of one I can see what is probably a relay on top. Assuming you don't use a thermistor type (bad for intermittent use), how does it detect when to switch out?

The application is for small refrigeration or small window A/C units running off an inverter. Optimizing for minimum inrush would let you use a smaller inverter.

Here are three tips:

>>First thing to try is to try adding some capacitance to the starting
side. More capacitance will increase the torque and will usually
reduce the inrush current. We use that trick in the refrigeration
field to make compressors start on low voltage. Try approximately
doubling the start capacitance.

>>A large run cap across the main terminals of the motor will help
with the very low power factor when starting. In other words, it
will supply the reactive VARs that the generator can't. I'd start
with about a 160 microfarad motor RUN (different from a start cap).

>>Having another motor running, particularly if it has a heavy rotor
and/or flywheel, will also help. When the compressor comes on, the
other motor will act as an induction generator and supply power to
the starting motor. This is the trick I use to get my restaurant's
walk-in freezer compressor to start on my emergency generator. An
old motor is a lot cheaper than a new generator :-). Motor should
be larger than the compressor motor. The bigger the better.

So my mistake was assuming a "larger start capacitor" = "hard start kit". I corrected that part above in text post area.

Just need a sprayer nozzle: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017JSD34

Be careful with an air compressor by the way. If you're spraying 150 PSI at PCBs from 3 inches away, you'll have more than enough power to rip surface mount components right off a PCB.

Keep the nozzle like 2 feet away, use the regulator to keep your PSI lower, I keep mine around 70ish, and even that much is probably unneeded.

Also keep in mind, air compressors do tend to blow out a little bit of water from condensation. I've never had an issue with it frying components, but make sure you're emptying out your tank frequently. It should have a drain valve somewhere. They actually make really expensive compressors specifically for electronics though to get around the condensation thing.

Yoga blocks do jack all for isolation. The neoprene is ok, but the compound that actually isolates is sorbothane. I'd get sorbothane and maybe put some saran wrap(or anything really) around it so it doesn't stain. Try it out without it though, unlikely you'll need it. If you notice something then get speaker stands.

If you were placing things on top of your subwoofers then yeah definitely place sorbothane or some of this stuff. Also, I put foam tape where picture frames come in contact with my walls since the rattling becomes really distracting.